North Caucasus: the secrets of a successful journey. Adventures in Bashkiria

Traveling in the North Caucasus is the best thing that can happen to you. If your mind is free from myths and stereotypes, go for it! And we will help you do everything beautifully, clearly and safely. Read our guide.

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#OurCaucasus

As soon as I got my license and bought my first car in 2016, I went on a trip to the North Caucasus. My story is simple: I came, I saw, I fell in love. I fell in love with road trips, fell in love with the Caucasus. And now every year (or even more than once) I gather a team of friends and go on auto expeditions to the most beautiful places in Russia.

In the fall of 2018, I equipped another trip to the mountains under the slogan #OurCaucasus. We went to break stereotypes and open this corner of our country to the general public. In a month, we traveled all the republics of the North Caucasus, visited the most beautiful places and proved that our southern regions are a safe and immensely interesting place for traveling.

Want to make sure? Read our travel tips for the Caucasus!

Our travel team:

Renata Mukminova and Alexei Sinitsyn.
Azat Agleev

Why go to the North Caucasus

• Admire the fantastic landscapes.
• To see the highest and majestic mountains of Russia - neither the Urals nor the Altai were even close.
• Enjoy the most beautiful mountain roads.
• Breathe clean air, live and walk in nature.
• Dispel a million myths and make sure that the most kind, cultured and pleasant people in Russia live in the Caucasus.
• Good to save! Here you are not Georgia, not the Alps and not New Zealand - the same beauties are given almost for nothing.

Traveling in the Caucasus by car

To travel around the Caucasus you need a car. The ideal option is to drive your own car. Only in this way will you be able to see all the beauties, reach the most remote and secret places, be mobile and free to lay any routes. Without a car, you won't see half of it.

It is best to drive an off-road vehicle - there are many places in the mountains where only an all-wheel drive car will pass in low gear. Don't have your own all-terrain vehicle? It doesn't matter - go on a trip in a regular car, and on the spot, if you wish, take jeep excursions to hard-to-reach places in the mountains. It won't be as interesting, but it's better than nothing.

Roads in the Caucasus mostly good, on all major routes there is perfect asphalt. There are many bad, broken primers in Dagestan between small villages in the mountains, but there is always an alternative good road.

Petrol. The problem with low-quality gasoline is only in Dagestan - there are no real gas stations of well-known brands, but only endless Likoils, Lukkoils, Rusneft and other "mutants" that mimic them. Alas, there is a real danger of pouring singed fuel into the tank of your car, which will instantly disable your engine. How to avoid problems and find solid gasoline, I will tell in a separate report about Dagestan.

DPS. There are many police and other security forces in the Caucasus. Get ready that at almost every post (and there are many of them here) you will have documents checked and asked about the route. In the rest: did not violate - they will not stop.

Our experience. We made both trips around the North Caucasus on the UAZ "Patriot" - I travel all over Russia on it. This is an ideal car for trips in the mountains: super passability and huge capacity. There was only one place where I could not drive this car due to low-hanging wires.

When to go

The mountains are beautiful and good at any time of the year, but still the best period for traveling in the Caucasus is the middle of spring or autumn.

During the golden autumn I spent both of our expeditions: the trees are burning with gold and crimson colors, the sun is warm, bless you, and there are few tourists even in the most popular places like Elbrus or Dombay. In general, a trip in September-October has some pluses.

spring nature will be completely different. If you want to see the green Caucasus, come in May.

In summer there will be many tourists and it will be too hot, but you can safely spend the night in a tent.

Winter it is warm in the mountains, but at this time all roads to hard-to-reach places will be covered with snow, trekking is impossible and there is a danger of avalanches.

Safety

The Republics of the North Caucasus are, in my opinion, the safest regions of Russia. Unexpected, right? But my experience, the opinion of local residents and the ratings that I happened to find on the Internet, prove this fact.

Good news:

• The crime rate in the Caucasus is low, leaving the car in the mountains and going hiking is safe. Checked repeatedly, the locals confidently declare the same.
• People in the mountains are sympathetic, attentive and hospitable. Especially in Dagestan: each mountaineer has leveled up mutual assistance to level 80. Do you have a problem? Any passer-by will do everything to solve it.
• In Chechnya, Ingushetia and Dagestan, there are a lot of security forces and posts on the roads. These people don't just sit around, but really support security, so you feel very calm in these republics. If you have questions, feel free to ask them to the military or police - they will help with advice.

But there is also bad news.. Alas, not everything is so good with security in the Caucasus.

• The main problem - Wahhabis. The extremists hide in the forest and pose a threat, first of all, to the locals. Of course, the probability of meeting is not high, so it is foolish to refuse a trip to the Caucasus because of the Wahhabis.
• Fools on the roads. There are reckless drivers in the Caucasus, but rumors about them are greatly exaggerated. Here, although they violate it, they do it not for the sake of showing off, but for their own convenience. Violate mostly gently and do not create danger on the road. Almost. Believe me, in comparison with the Kuban and Crimeans, Caucasians are ideal drivers.
• Wild animals. There are many bears and wolves in the Caucasus and you can easily meet them. Local residents meet bears more than once in their lives, the beast sometimes even enters the villages, but behaves well and does not rage. We did not meet predators, but we found the freshest bear trail in the mountains (we quickly disappeared from there, what can we hide).

But the result is still positive! I boldly assert: I feel calmer and safer in the Caucasus than in Perm, St. Petersburg or Moscow.

What to see in the Caucasus

We looked at dozens of sights of the North Caucasus - there will be a large report-list with photos, coordinates and maps.

The most beautiful places in the Caucasus:

• Djily-Su tract (KBR),
• Dombay with its lifts and four most picturesque gorges around it: Alibek, Amanauz, Gonachkhir and Dombay-Ulgen (KChR),
• Mount Toguzkelbashi (KCHR),
• Sophia saddle (KChR),
• Zelenchuk temples (KChR),
• Bermamyt Plateau (KChR),
• Plateau Lago-Naki (Adygea),
• City of the Dead Dargavs (North Ossetia),
• Tower complexes Egikhal, Targim and Vovnushki (Ingushetia),
• Mountain roads east of Lake Kezenoy-Am (Dagestan),
• Karadakh gorge (Dagestan),
• Saltinsky underground waterfall (Dagestan),
• Alpine villages of Dagestan,
• Abandoned village of Gamsutl (Dagestan),
• Derbent is the oldest city in Russia (Dagestan).

As you can see, the undisputed leaders in the beauty of landscapes are Dagestan and Karachay-Cherkessia.

If you are a fan of Lermontov's work and a big fan of "A Hero of Our Time", you will be curious to see a map of the routes of Pechorin and Lermontov in the Caucasus.

Where to live

On both of our expeditions, we ran the tent empty - only a couple of times we had to spend the night in the car, we spent all the other nights in hotels. There are no problems with housing in the North Caucasus. Almost not. In the KChR, KBR and Adygea, popular and hackneyed tourists, there is more than enough housing: any options for any money, everything is on. In Ossetia, Chechnya and Dagestan, it is already more difficult with housing, but in Ingushetia - just a pipe. But you can get out, I will give advice for each republic:

KChR, KBR and Adygea: we book all accommodation on . Large selection of camp sites, guest houses, hotels, apartments.

North Ossetia: the easiest way is to stay on the outskirts of Vladikavkaz and make daily trips to the mountains.

Ingushetia: there are only 5-7 housing options for the whole republic and not a single decent one. We saw the whole republic in one day, and spent the night in Nazran (so-so place).

Chechnya: I recommend staying at a motel on the highway, and not in Grozny - it's cheaper and you don't need to waste time moving around the city. From the motel you can drive to the mountains. On Lake Kezenoy-Am, accommodation is expensive: from 2,500 rubles for a double room.

Dagestan: in Derbent, Makhachkala and other cities on the coast of the Caspian Sea, the choice of housing is very large, in the mountains - extremely scarce. To explore the mountainous Dagestan, it is convenient to stay in Gunib and drive around the surroundings. Didn't find accommodation or didn't have time to return to civilization in the evening? No problem! Any family in the mountain villages will be happy to shelter and feed you. In Dagestan, the level of hospitality just rolls over.

I strongly do not recommend renting apartments directly from private owners (for example, through Avito). Either they will slip you a bedbug, or they will break your brain with all sorts of nonsense - don’t even try! Remember: Booking, motels or registration - only this way and no amateur performances.

Clothing and equipment

Haven't been to the mountains or auto trips yet? No problem, I'll teach you how to pack your suitcase in half an hour. Here I will give only the most important tips, for detailed lists, see the links:

Remember the main rule in the mountains: there is never too much fleece! Decathlon will help you: take fleece pants and sweaters of different densities, windbreakers, a hat and a cap, plenty of thermal socks, shorts and T-shirts.

Instead of heavy, uncomfortable and non-breathable trekking boots, it is better to take trail running shoes - these are the best shoes that mankind has invented. Trekking poles are very useful for hiking.

Your own kettle or boiler, a set of mugs, tea, coffee, porridge in bags and all sorts of cookies - this simple set will brighten up your trip, warm, invigorate and saturate you every morning and evening.

Nutrition

Before traveling to the North Caucasus, according to the old tradition, we bought up half a supermarket: canned food, pates, biscuits, cereals, dried fruits, nuts, candy bars and other supplies. During any autotrip, my trunk looks like a food cabinet in a bunker in case of a nuclear war. If in Altai food briskly jumped into our camping kettle - just have time to replenish it, then in the Caucasus we ate mainly in cafes.

1. tasty food,
2. feed cheaply,
3. save time
4. the diet will be varied,
5. Finding a cafe is not a problem.

On average, you can eat per person for 200-300 rubles, in Dombai and Terskol - more expensive, these places are spoiled by tourists. In Vladikavkaz, you can eat delicious barbecue for 600 rubles per kg - just fantastic. In Dagestan, in any village, any hostess will feed you from the heart for free.

But still take a small set of products:

• canned food, cereals and a supply of water in case of emergency;
• nuts, muesli, chocolate, dried fruits for a snack on hikes or on a trip;
• porridge in bags for a quick breakfast at the hotel.

How much money do you need for a trip

Few! When compared with the expenses that a trip to Europe or even to the resorts of the Krasnodar Territory requires, then a trip to the North Caucasus is inexpensive.

There were three of us on this expedition. We spent exactly a month in the Caucasus, plus the road from Perm (almost 3,000 km) took 3-4 days one way.

Cost per person per month:

• Housing - 17300 rubles.
• Meals in a cafe - 9800 rubles.
• Products - 6500 rubles.
• Mobile communication - 300 rubles.
• Missing medicines in the first-aid kit - 1000 rubles.
• Attractions and lifts - 2700 rubles.

Car expenses (full amount):

• Gasoline in the Caucasus - 15,000 rubles.
• Gasoline for the round trip - 25,000 rubles.
• Car repair and maintenance while traveling - 1100 rubles.

Of course there were more travel preparation expenses: car maintenance, buying clothes and equipment - but all these expenses are not only related to this trip, so we don’t count them, but we keep them in mind when planning the budget.

The most expensive thing on this trip is gasoline. But if your car does not have a consumption of 13-20 liters per hundred and you do not need to drive 6,000 kilometers back and forth to the Caucasus, then your trip will be much cheaper.

Cultural program

There is a category of vacationers who come to the Caucasus (and anywhere else) just for the sake of three things: booze, barbecue and a bath. Basically, they go to Dombay, a little less to Arkhyz and the Elbrus region, they almost never occur in other places. I hope your interests, as well as ours, are wider than this list. If so, then take note of useful books, films and articles that will help you get to know the culture of the peoples of the North Caucasus better.

1. "Hero of our time". M. Yu Lermontov.
2. "Prisoner of the Caucasus". L. N. Tolstoy.
3. "Hadji Murad". L. N. Tolstoy.
4. "Caucasus". A. Dumas (travel notes).
5. "Letters from Dagestan". A. A. Bestuzhev-Marlinsky.

See also the list of books in this article on LJ and in the comments to it.

See the list of books about the Caucasian War at Arzamas.

What to listen to:

Excellent material on the traditional music of the Caucasian peoples was prepared by Arzamas.

What to see:

• "Prisoner of the Caucasus" 1996, Sergei Bodrov (senior).
• "Ashik-Kerib" 1988, Sergei Parajanov (based on Lermontov's poem and an Azerbaijani fairy tale).

From documentaries, I can recommend Anton Lange's Ridge. Kakaz from Sea to Sea. I won’t say that the film came out excellent, but you won’t find anything better on YouTube about the Caucasus.

The North Caucasus is a land of unforgettable impressions, where, once you get there, you will want to return again and again. The Caucasus is the splendor of nature, which has conquered more than one generation of tourists, talented people, historical figures. These are the purest mountain air, azure lakes, sparkling transparent rivers, springs of healing mineral waters, rebellious peaks of the great Caucasus Range, untouched forests, breathtaking canyons, caves, waterfalls... The Caucasus is not only rich in nature! From time immemorial, its lands were inhabited by a variety of peoples who created their own history and spread their culture. The Caucasus is a whole encyclopedia of nationalities, their rich history and cultural diversity.

Currently, the tourism potential of the Caucasus is greatly underestimated by travelers. The reasons for this are the lack of awareness about recreational opportunities, the existing stereotypes (a la "The Caucasus is a hot spot" or "They say wild people live in the Caucasus"), the high cost of recreation, poorly developed infrastructure and services, the habit of "package" rest, with which our compatriots were spoiled by Turkey and Egypt. Each reason can be devoted to a separate post, but we will limit ourselves to the main theses.

As for awareness - the Internet is full of information about the tourist Caucasus, there would be a desire to search and read. This post is also helpful. Alas, no one has created a single portal where all the most detailed information for a tourist would be collected, although the idea has been repeatedly voiced.

As for stereotypes - just throw them out of your head. There have been no hostilities here for a long time, special operations, I will not conceal, occasionally happen in certain areas, which, rest assured, are often not included in the tourist zone. As for the "savagery" of the local population - also an old myth, Caucasians are a very cultured and hospitable people. However, remember that everyone has a layer of ill-mannered haml.

For the majority of Russians, holidays in the North Caucasus can hardly be called budgetary. A significant part of the cost of the trip will be the cost of transport. Well, if you live in the North Caucasus or South Federal District, you will spend less than, for example, tourists from Siberia or the Urals (I am silent about the Far East). Low-cost airlines do not fly to the Caucasus. An air ticket from Moscow to any Caucasian city will cost an average 5000 rubles one way. It is worth waiting for the sale of tickets or special promotions for the necessary destinations. For example, in October of this year, I purchased a ticket "Mineralnye Vody - Moscow - Mineralnye Vody" for only 6500 rubles.

With regards to service and infrastructure, the situation changes from region to region, from resort to resort, and "package" vouchers are sold only for spa treatment, which is also not offered by every region. I will break the post into sections, each of which will be devoted to recreation in a particular region of the North Caucasus Federal District. All the mentioned hotels and resorts were visited by me personally, what I liked - I recommend it to others. You can also recommend places that you like in the comments.

For the lion's share of what I saw, I thank the company "Resorts of the North Caucasus", which, through a series of blog tours, showed bloggers the best places in the regions of the North Caucasus Federal District and allowed them to "test" the rest in the North Caucasus.

1. Karachay-Cherkess Republic
TOP 5 places: Dombay, Arkhyz, Teberda, Honey waterfalls, Khabez district.
Nearest airport: Mineral water.

There is no own airport in KChR, so get ready for a long road. For a transfer from the Minvod airport to Cherkessk - the capital of the KChR and the largest transport hub of the republic - 1500 rubles, and in time - 1.5-2 hours drive. There are not many places for recreation in the city, but there is a bus station from where you can go to the glorious resorts of Karachay-Cherkessia. I advise you to use Yandex.Schedules to plan your trip.

If you still want to stay in Cherkessk, I recommend the Grand Caucasus Hotel for accommodation. It is located near the center and has a good level of service. Almost all the sights of Cherkessk are within walking distance from you. These are Pervomaiskaya pedestrian street, Victory Park, Zeleny Ostrov, the Cathedral of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker. In the near future, the construction of the Cathedral Mosque will be completed. On Pervomayskaya, be sure to go to the cafe "Dakhanago" (the average check is 500-1000 rubles), where you will find delicious cakes of our own production. "Glamorous" youth of Cherkessk gathers in a cafe "Richie"(average check - 1000-1500 rubles), where sometimes visiting DJs play club sets in the evenings. You will find a slightly different flavor (a la east) with hookahs and private booths in the only 24-hour restaurant "Padishah"(average check - 1000-1500 rubles) . On weekend nights, a concert or humorous program awaits visitors, on other evenings - live music performed by our friend, the permanent host of the Arkhyz 24 TV channel and theater actor Aslan Astezhev.

In general, we rested in Cherkessk - it's time to get out to the big resorts. Two competing tourist meccas of Karachay-Cherkessia are Dombay and Arkhyz. They are located in neighboring gorges, but have completely different nature and different resources for recreation.

Dombay is probably one of the most popular ski resorts in the North Caucasus. There are several cable cars - the price is here. Climbing to the top will cost 900 rubles. Several ski slopes of different difficulty levels - for beginners, amateurs, experienced skiers and snowboarders, and for professionals. The season starts here in mid-December, in mid-April - ends.

As for accommodation in Dombay, I can not recommend anything. I lived in a Dombay hotel once and I remember it as a nightmare, so I will not advise anything. The village itself is built up with private mini-hotels, so if you wish, you can easily find an acceptable option.

On the way to Dombay, you can stop by Teberda, as well as the Ossetian village of Kosta Khetagurova (this is a great Ossetian poet) and see the Shoanin temple with your own eyes, sending you back to the 10th century. Teberda will delight you with stunning nature, clean air and mild climate. Teberda is a resort city, a center of mountaineering and hiking. It also houses a number of sanatoriums for those who are interested in improving their health.

In Arkhyz, the tourist village Romantik is developing at a powerful pace. The hotel complex "Romantic" has been launched there, a service center has been opened and a cable car launch station is operating. So far, there are only two hotels in Romantik - "Romantik-1" 4* and "Romantik-2" 3*. I lived in the hotel "Romantic-2", now there is a double one-room (standard twin) room 3300 rubles for two per day, including breakfast. The hotel is nice, comfortable and brand new.

What to do in Arkhyz? There are many options for both winter and summer programs.
In winter, it is, of course, skiing and snowboarding. There are great trails of different difficulty levels. The season here also comes in December. You should not be afraid that the weather will let you down with snow - now artificial snow systems are being installed on Arkhyz. There are gondola and chair lifts (at a cost of 150-200 rubles for lifting).
Horseback riding is popular in summer 350 rubles per hour), passing the rope park ( 200-300 rubles per person) hiking to Sofia lakes and waterfalls, sightseeing - Byzantine temples, the Face of Christ, the observatory of the Russian Academy of Sciences, jeeping ( 400 rubles per person).

At an altitude of 1750 meters above sea level in the summer you can live in a tent camp. It will be much cheaper than staying in a hotel: per day per person - 450 rubles+ for 450 rubles You get three meals a day. The territory of the camp is provided with the necessary sanitary and hygienic facilities (showers, toilets, washbasins), water and electricity, and wireless Internet. There is a cafe of Caucasian and European cuisine, snack bars.

On the way to Arkhyz you will pass Khabezsky district. Why is he remarkable? The most beautiful mosque of the republic was built there, the Adiyuh tower rises on the mountain, covered with myths and legends. Under the tower there is a hotel and recreation complex "Adiyukh Palace", which has long become a venue for elite weekends among the Circassian beau monde.

For a more budget-friendly vacation, you should go to Honey Waterfalls. Here you can walk under the spray of cool waterfalls, try dishes and drinks of the national Karachay cuisine (khychin, ayran, susab), saddle a horse. By the way, this small place is full of events: horse riding championships, ayran festivals and other celebrations are regularly held here.

2. Caucasian Mineralnye Vody (Stavropol Territory)
TOP 5 places:Kislovodsk resort park, Mount Mashuk, Mount Beshtau, Proval, Kurortny Boulevard in Kislovodsk.
Nearest airport:Mineral water.

By rest in the Stavropol Territory, I can only mean rest in the Caucasian Mineral Waters: where, if not there, are all the recreational resources of the region collected? A long-known fact: Caucasian Mineral Waters is a national granary and health resort. During the Soviet Union, streams of holidaymakers from all over our vast Motherland flocked here. The intoxicating magic of the Caucasian Mineral Waters was clearly felt by the very first "brand manager" of this region - the famous poet and writer M.Yu. Lermontov. In the monologues of his protagonist in "A Hero of Our Time" we are imbued with the same love that Lermontov felt for the elite resort city of Pyatigorsk at that time.

“Yesterday I arrived in Pyatigorsk, rented an apartment on the edge of the city, on the highest place, at the foot of Mashuk: during a thunderstorm, clouds will descend to my roof. This morning at five o’clock in the morning, when I opened the window, my room was filled with the smell of flowers growing in a modest front garden. Branches of flowering cherries look out my windows, and the wind sometimes strews my desk with their white petals. The view from three sides is wonderful. To the west - the five-domed Beshtau turns blue, like "the last cloud of a scattered storm"; Mashuk rises to the north like a shaggy Persian hat, and covers this entire part of the sky; it’s more fun to look to the east: below, in front of me, a clean, brand new town is full of colors, healing springs rustle, a multilingual crowd rustles, - and there, further, an amphitheater - mountains are piled up all blue and foggy, and on the edge of the horizon stretches a silver chain of snow peaks, beginning with Kazbek and ending with the two-headed Elbrus... It's fun to live in such a land! st and fresh as the kiss of a child; the sun is bright, the sky is blue - what would seem to be more? Why are there passions, desires, regrets? .." M. Yu. LERMONTOV. "Princess Mary" May 11, 1838

Magic lines, right?

Traditionally, 4 cities are attributed to the CMS cities - Pyatigorsk, Kislovodsk, Zheleznovodsk, Yessentuki, but geographically much more territories are included in the Kavminvody. In these four cities there are strings of sanatoriums, drinking galleries, healing baths, healing parks. It is believed that each resort city has its own medical profile, however, modern equipment and the desire to withstand a competitive race have forced most sanatoriums to practice treatment and rehabilitation for the widest range of diseases. Unfortunately, there is not yet a single portal that would collect and organize all the information on the health facilities of the Kavminvod, so the sanatorium will have to be selected through an independent search for official sites or with the help of an agency.

At one time, I made a good choice in favor of the sanatorium "Elite" (from 2900 rubles per person per day). This is a real Turkish "all inclusive", though in Kislovodsk. The mentioned price includes accommodation, three meals a day, treatment, free access to the SPA (pool, hammam, Finnish sauna, jacuzzi with hydromassage), gym, air solarium (this type of summer you can sunbathe on the sunbeds on the roof), free use of fireplace rooms for your own needs, cultural program. The sanatorium is private and new, without "sovietness", accommodates up to 80 guests, which means that your vacation will be almost like a family.

And my soul still lives in the city of Pyatigorsk. This is my favorite city. There is more life here compared to other cities of the CMS due to the younger population (in Pyatigorsk there are many universities) and the status of the capital of the North Caucasus Federal District near the city, which makes it the center of event tourism in the North Caucasus. Here I recommend hotels "Pyatigorsk" (from 1300 rubles), "Nautilus" (from 2000 rubles), "Intourist" (from 2200 rubles), "Beshtau" (from 3100 rubles) and "Golden Hotel" (from 3500 rubles). All of them are located in the city center and have a fairly pleasant number of rooms for every taste and pocket. I especially appreciate the last three hotels for the gorgeous view from the window / balcony.

From catering establishments, I can also advise a lot of things, but the art club "Picasso" immediately comes to mind (live program, creative audience, excellent service), summer lounge cafe "Big Balcony" in the shopping center "Gallery" (outdoors, beautiful view of the city, author's cuisine), "Rendezvous" in "Intourist", "Khantama" on Ordzhonikidze and "Proval" near Proval are not bad. Price tags are different, geography too. In general, restaurant life in Pyatigorsk is in full swing, so over the weekend you yourself will be able to make your own shortlist of your favorite establishments.

However, you did not come to the Caucasian Mineral Waters to eat and sleep. In Pyatigorsk, a lot of attractions are waiting for you - Lake Proval, where at the entrance to the grotto the sculpture of Ostap Bender is still collecting money from tourists; the grotto and the Lermontov Museum, the Aeolian Harp, the Chinese gazebo, drinking galleries, the famous sculpture of the eagle - the symbol of the Caucasian Mineral Waters, "Broadway" - Kirov Avenue with mass celebrations of holidaymakers, mountains Mashuk and Beshtau. A hint for those who want to be in trend: morning jogging on Mashuk and hiking on Beshtau are popular among Pyatigorsk youth.

You will feel a different spirit in Kislovodsk: life here flows more measured and calmer. Fewer opportunities for parties, more kilometers for walking: at your disposal is the second largest in Europe - the Kislovodsk resort park. Walk to your health! Also remember that Kislovodsk is the birthplace of "Narzan": you can follow it to the Narzan gallery on Kurortny Boulevard. There you can also find the building of the Narzan baths - a magnificent architectural monument. It is a pity that the institution is not working today. In the suburbs of Kislovodsk, you can visit the Ring Mountain - a gate formed by nature. From there, a stunning view of Kislovodsk opens up. Another interesting place is the Castle of Treachery and Love, full of legends. True, now there is a restaurant ... :(

3. Kabardino-Balkarian Republic
TOP 5 places: Elbrus, Blue lakes, Chegem waterfalls, Upper Balkaria, Dolinsk (Nalchik).
Nearest airport: Nalchik.

Kabardino-Balkaria is a territory of world-famous beauties and upcoming amazing discoveries. The highest peak in Russia and Europe - the handsome Elbrus, the unexplored depths of the Blue Lakes and the unexplored paths to the Shadkhurei lakes, the grandiose Chegem waterfalls, Upper Balkaria - the land where mountains meet the sky. Such is the amazing beauty of Kabardino-Balkaria, in short.

In the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria there is a resort area - the Dolinsk region. There are many sanatoriums, recreation centers, a huge park area. If you need to stay in Nalchik for a couple of days, I recommend the Korona Hotel (from 1500 rubles per day). In the city, I advise you to visit the Atazhukinsky Garden, the observation deck near the Sosruko restaurant, to see the sights of the main avenue of the city. You will like the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria - it is a pretty, cozy garden city with a measured life.

But you should not stay too long in Nalchik, since you have already decided to come to Kabardino-Balkaria. In the Chegem Gorge, Chegem waterfalls are waiting for you - one of the most picturesque places in the republic. In the Cherek Gorge there are popular Blue Lakes, a group of 5 karst lakes. The most interesting is the Lower Lake. It houses a diving center, but despite this, no one has ever reached the bottom of the lake. According to approximate data, it is 368 meters. If you want to see more than the average tourist, I suggest you go in search of the Shadhurey Lakes, which is in the Zolsky district of the KBR. It's an underrated, unpopular tourist destination, but the beauty of the lakes is sure to win you over. Other interesting places are the remains of ancient settlements in Upper Balkaria, the crypts in the village of El-Tubyu, the healing lake Tambukan and the Djily-Su waterfall.

Regarding the organization of recreation in Kabardino-Balkaria, I recommend contacting the tour operator "KBR Travel". I trust these people.

Well, and of course, what kind of vacation in the KBR is without visiting the largest tourist and recreational complex in the North Caucasus "Prielbrusye"? It is a world center for tourism, mountaineering and skiing. Both amateurs and professionals of mountaineering and winter sports come here. In the Elbrus region there is also a balneological zone - Polyana Narzanov, famous for its carbonic mineral waters. In the Narzanov Glade, you can enjoy the mountain beauty and clean air, try the healing narzan straight from the spring spring.

I recommend staying at the new European-class hotel Azau Star (from 3000 rubles per day per room) in the village of Elbrus. The hotel is located near the gondola cable car station on the Azau glade at the foot of Elbrus (2200 meters above sea level). It is possible to ski from the door of the hotel. The hotel has its own SPA-center and a cozy restaurant with delicious cuisine. Many windows, a lot of light, a magical atmosphere is created by the radio "Relax FM", enveloping the corridors of the hotel with melodic sound.

A one-time cable car ticket costs 400-500 rubles. There are four stations on the slope of Elbrus: the starting station is "Azau" (2300 m.), the second is "Staryi Krugozor" (3000 m.), the third is "Mir" (3500 m.) and on the chairlift), the fourth - "Garabashi" (3780 m.) (only on the chairlift).

4. Republic of North Ossetia-Alania
TOP 5 places:Kazbek, Uastirdzhi monument, Dargavs necropolis, Midagrabin waterfalls, historical center of Vladikavkaz.
Nearest airport:Vladikavkaz (Beslan).

Long before I moved to the Caucasus, I felt at home on Ossetian soil, and even now I like to come to this beautiful republic. Accordingly, as in Pyatigorsk, I have several hotels here, in which I constantly stop. This is "Planet Lux" (from 1600 rubles per day) near SOGU named after Kosta Khetagurov and "Vladikavkaz" (from 2450 rubles per day ) on the banks of the Terek near the Sunni mosque - an architectural monument. The first option is cheaper, and I love the second one for the incomparable view from the window (you need to ask at the reception for a room with a view of the Terek) and cheesecakes for breakfast :) The panorama from the balcony of the room in Vladikavkaz noisy waters and the Costa Khetagurova Park, and if you're lucky with good weather, then Table Mountain.

If you have free time in Vladikavkaz, then I suggest you go for a walk around the city. There is a wonderful walking route along the most beautiful streets: from the monument to Isa Pliev - over the bridge to the other side of the Terek - past the Armenian Church, then - along Mira Avenue (pedestrian zone, trees, benches, scurrying trams, city radio that sets a great mood) or through the park Kosta Khetagurova - and again through the Terek - to the hotel "Vladikavkaz" and the mosque. Or you can continue your journey along Prospekt Mira, reach the Evgeny Vakhtangov Theater and the monument to Mikhail Bulgakov.

Be sure to try the famous Ossetian pies. And - Ossetian beer, which leaves indifferent even the opponents of beer. Of the catering establishments where I have been, I will recommend "White Cafe" (average check - 700-1000 rubles), "Salvadore" (average bill - 1000-1500 rubles) and "Our" (average bill - 500-700 rubles).

Probably the most famous landmark of North Ossetia is Mount Kazbek, the highest peak in the republic and a popular destination for climbers from all over the world. From the Russian side, climbing it is possible from the Genaldon Gorge through the villageKarmadonNorth Ossetia. This route can only be mastered by physically prepared climbers.

But in order to love the mountains, it is not necessary to be a climber. The magnificence of the nature of the mountainous North Ossetia is also available to a simple tourist. Moreover, in this part of the republic, a lot of surprises await you - the Uastirdzhi monument, the Dzivgis cave fortress, the Mykalgabyrt sanctuary, the Dargavs necropolis, the Midagrabin waterfalls and much, much more.

If you want to stay overnight in the mountains, I recommend going to the Fiagdon Gorge. Firstly, it is fabulously beautiful there, secondly, you can visit the holy places (Alan Assumption Monastery and its font), thirdly, there is some kind of tourist infrastructure, though for lovers of increased comfort. You can stay overnight at the Fiagdon Art Hotel (room - from 6000 rubles per day). Here I recommend visiting the restaurant "Valley of the Sun" (average bill - 750 rubles) with a picturesque view outside the window, delicious cuisine and a cozy atmosphere.

5. Republic of Ingushetia
TOP 5 places:Armkhi, Vovnushki, Erzi, Magas, Memorial of memory and glory.
Nearest airport: Magas.

What can be interesting for a tourist in Ingushetia? The republic has its own all-season resort - Armkhi. The vast territory of Ingushetia - the Dzheirakhsky district - can be safely called an open-air museum for its countless tower complexes and ancient temples. And, finally, it is a pleasure to look at the new capital of Ingushetia - the city of Magas with its majestic sights. An important point is that you can travel around the whole republic in a couple of hours, so even over the weekend you will have time to enjoy the first, second, and third.

From 3500 rubles worth a night in one of my favorite hotels - Artis Plaza in Magas. The rooms here are reminiscent of the Sultan's chambers. In addition, the hotel has a sauna, a hot tub, a Turkish bath and a massage room - for a fee, you can feel even more like a sultan.

Before reaching Nazran, it is worth stopping at the Memorial of Memory and Glory. This object will tell you about the historical events that the Ingush people experienced - deportation, participation in various military operations. On the way to the Armkhi resort, you will pass many places in the Dzheyrakhsky district that are also worth your attention. These are the ancient Christian temple of Thaba-Erda, the tower complexes of Vovnushki, Erzi, Egikal and other tribal villages.

And, when you pass the strongest test of the beauty of the national treasure of Ingushetia, the doors of the Armkhi health-improving complex at the all-season resort of the same name will hospitably open before you. This is the oldest health resort in the Caucasus: for the treatment of ailments, hydrotherapy, mud therapy, massage and much more are practiced here. The cleanest spring water flows from the tap in the rooms, and the air "overboard" is especially healing - due to the maintenance of linden and coniferous trees in the park of the resort. Room prices here start from 1500 rubles, separately 1475 rubles there is a day of spa treatment with three meals a day.

For entertainment - a swimming pool, a fitness center, a Russian bath, in winter - skiing, snowboarding and snowmobiling, in summer - a rope park and walks along the health paths. There is a cable car.

6. Chechen Republic
TOP 5 places: Grozny City, the mosque "Heart of Chechnya", the mosque named after Aimani Kadyrova, Kezenoy-Am, the memorial complex "Walk of Glory".
Nearest airport: Grozny.

Recently, a tourist complex of the same name was opened on Lake Kezenoy-Am. So far, guests can only entertain themselves by visiting a restaurant, a gym and walking around the lake. Also on the territory of the complex is a mosque. Work on the development of the resort is no end, but there is already a place to stay on the popular lake. Lake Kezenoy-Am - of incredible beauty, is considered the largest alpine lake in the North Caucasus. And the most beautiful, I think.

In the tourist complex, prices do not bite yet. For example, in an economy class room, you can stay for 700 rubles from a person. If I'm not mistaken, the price includes half board meals (breakfasts + dinners).

Kezenoy-Am is located two hours drive from Grozny, and, of course, it is worth starting any trip around the Chechen Republic from it. In the city itself, you can find a lot of interesting places. Firstly, this is the Akhmat-Khadji Kadyrov Mosque called "The Heart of Chechnya" - one of the largest in Russia and one of the leaders of the sensational Internet voting "Russia 10", in which the 10 best sights of the country were chosen. Secondly, this is a complex of high-rise buildings "Grozny City" - there is a hotel, and a business center, and an apartment building, where the famous citizen of the Russian Federation Gerard de Pardie now has housing. Thirdly and fourthly - The memorial complex "Walk of Glory" and the National Museum of the Chechen Republic are places where the history of the Chechen Republic and the entire North Caucasus is carefully preserved.

In the spring, one of the most beautiful mosques in Russia was opened in Chechnya - the mosque named after Aimani Kadyrova in Argun. However, do not think that all the sights of Chechnya were built in recent times. Very ancient monuments of history have been preserved on the territory of the republic - the crypts of Tsoi-Pede (14th century), Pkhakoch Castle (12th century), and only recently the Ushkaloy towers (12th century) have been reconstructed.

If you want to see the sights of mountainous Chechnya and travel without a car, I recommend contacting the Chechnya Travel tour operator. In addition to individual excursions, they will be happy to offer you package tours in Chechnya with accommodation, meals, excursions, a cultural program and transfers.

For those who want to improve their health in Chechnya, there is a resort "Sernovodsk-Kavkazsky". There are many treatment profiles, but the main therapeutic factor is the hydrogen sulfide thermal springs.

7. Republic of Dagestan
TOP 5 places:Caspian Sea(!), Derbent, Sary-Kum dune, Sulak canyon, Irganai reservoir.
Nearest airport: Makhachkala.

I put an exclamation point in front of the Caspian for a reason: Dagestan is the only republic in the North Caucasus with access to the sea. While other subjects of the North Caucasus Federal District are busy building and developing their ski resorts, Dagestan is calm: it has no competitors in a beach holiday with its sea and climate.

As an option for accommodation - the base of FC "Anji" in Kaspiysk. The base consists of several apartments, a swimming pool and bars on site. The beach is within walking distance. You can also look at other offers - in Kaspiysk, Makhachkala and Derbent. I warn you right away: this is not Spain or even Turkey, so do not expect high-class service.

In Makhachkala, you can comfortably stay at the Abu Dagi Hotel ( 3000 rubles per day), which is considered one of the best hotels in the capital of Dagestan. Here are spacious rooms, luxurious interior of the premises, own fitness room and SPA-center. A significant minus: it is still far from the city center and the Gorsky beach.

It is worth going to Dagestan not only for a beach holiday, but also for a wide excursion program. Probably, you still have no idea how beautiful Dagestan is and how rich its history is! Places to visit:
- Sand dune Sary-Kum - a sudden discovery among the mountains of Dagestan;
- Sulak Canyon - the second deepest canyon in the world;
- Derbent - the most ancient and southern city of Russia;
- Gunib - a village with breathtaking views of the surroundings, as well as an important historical place: the legendary Imam Shamil was captured here;
- Chirkeyskaya HPP - the largest hydroelectric power plant in the North Caucasus;
- The Irganai reservoir - not inferior in beauty to the Chirkey reservoir ...
... and many many others!

And further:
1) In any city you can find accommodation options for any pocket.
2) The Caucasus is a great option for a weekend getaway, but for this option it is reasonable to spend money only for residents of the North Caucasus and South Federal Districts. I advise Muscovites to catch discounts on air tickets.
3) If you are going to the Caucasus on vacation in the off-season, it would be great to combine visits to several regions in one trip. The distance between the largest cities is small, 1-2 hours drive. The exception is Makhachkala. I planned my first trip to the Caucasus in this way: I arrived by train to Kislovodsk, spent 2 weeks on rest and treatment at Kavminvody with excursions to neighboring Karachay-Cherkessia, then by bus to North Ossetia, spent one day there, the next day - in Ingushetia , in the evening she stopped in Grozny, in the morning - flew from Beslan to Moscow.

When traveling in the Caucasus, remember that you are exploring the most popular tourist destination in the country. The development of engineering infrastructure is in full swing here, new hotels are being built, new resorts are being launched, new tourist trails are being laid. If you have ever been to the Caucasus, do not dismiss the idea of ​​visiting it again - it changes from year to year, and, perhaps, having arrived at familiar places, you will no longer recognize them!

So, welcome to the resorts of the North Caucasus! :)

Good afternoon, dear readers. The beginning of October is in the yard, the time of holidays for the majority of Russians is left behind. In fairness, it should be noted that the holidays of many of our compatriots this year were not entirely successful.

The reason for this was massive problems with tour operators, many of which suspended their activities. This circumstance, as well as the tense political situation around Russia, led to a sharp decrease (according to some sources, up to 30%) of outbound tourism.

As they say, there would be no happiness - but misfortune helped. Rosstat recently reported that the country is experiencing a surge in domestic tourism. The Russians, for obvious reasons, began to relax more “at home” than over the hill.

Rest in the Caucasus since the times of the USSR, it has been shrouded in a veil of mysteries and stereotypes. The entire territory of the North Caucasus is strewn with recreational, natural and historical centers: medical health resorts in Stavropol, ski resorts in Sochi and Kabardino-Balkaria, the famous Dombay, the coast of the Black and Caspian Seas, ancient architectural monuments and modern skyscrapers of Grozny ...

You can go on for a long time. For example, a lot of people come just to breathe in the clean mountain air. I have a friend who makes a special visit every three years just to eat plenty of organic fruits and vegetables.

Recently, more and more often I hear from people that they would be happy to visit the Caucasus, but that's "a little scary." Various arguments are given: there are strict traditions and customs, people wear a veil, a lot of nationalities, wild views of young people, rampant crime, religious fanatics...

These 10 points must be taken into account when planning your vacation in the Caucasus?

I will not pull the cat for the known organs, straight to the point. I confess that I’m already a little tired of answering the same questions on social networks about planning a vacation in the Caucasus: how to dress, what to take with you, what kind of food is there, how Russian girls are treated, whether it is necessary to learn local languages, what is customary to give Caucasians, how to talk to them correctly? And a million more questions.

In this article, I decided to reveal 10 important aspects that must be taken into account if you are planning to spend a long-awaited vacation in one of the corners of the mountainous region. In general, I am writing an article for myself in order to give it to those who will ask me the above questions. Although, each of you will find something useful here for yourself or write your opinion in the comments and supplement me.

• Familiarize yourself with the traditions and customs of the locals in advance.

It is very important to do this, even in order not to get into a mess like Shurik in the movie "Prisoner of the Caucasus":

Dozens of peoples live in the Caucasus, each of them has its own traditions. Having studied a little of their history and culture, you will immediately get an undeniable advantage over an unprepared person and will be able to win over the local population.

And do not say that there is no time for this or little information. The Internet is simply filled with exhaustive materials about traditions. Do not be lazy, read and learn the basics, so that later it would be easier for you to talk with those who will receive you.

• Try to choose clothes that are more modest.

Traveling in Russia is now becoming increasingly popular, and many tourists prefer European resorts to rest at home. One of the most picturesque places in Russia, where landscapes amaze the imagination, is the North Caucasus. The level of service here is gradually growing, and the prices for vacations are often pleasantly different from European ones down.

You need to go to the Caucasus in order to enjoy the beauty and diversity of nature, spend time in the fresh air, admire the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.

Tours from Moscow to the Caucasus with TourClub "Transition"

TourClub "Transition" organizes many tours to the Caucasus, among which you can choose the type of vacation that you most like:

• Active pastime, including cycling, swimming in waterfalls, rafting on mountain rivers and exciting adventures in the style of "Fort Boyard";
• Classic hiking tours with accommodation in tents and cooking on a fire;
• Winter hikes for experienced tourists, involving overcoming various obstacles on the route;
• Wellness tours with hotel accommodation, including excursions and walks along forest trails.

Also, when choosing a route, read the recommendations regarding the necessary physical preparation: some of the hikes in the Caucasus can be used by beginner tourists and children, while others require experience and good physical shape.

How to get from Moscow to the Caucasus

Meeting with the group and instructors in our trips takes place already at the starting point of the route, so you need to think in advance how you will get to the place.

Depending on the chosen tour from Moscow, you will need to get to one of the following settlements on your own:

• Krasnodar;
• Stavropol;
• Belorechensk;
• Nevinnomyssk;
• Vladikavkaz.

Stavropol, Krasnodar and Vladikavkaz can be reached from Moscow by direct flight, the flight will take an average of 2 hours.

All of the above cities and towns can be reached by direct train from Moscow. The average travel time is about 30 hours.

When is the best time to go to the Caucasus

The Caucasus is mountains, and mountains are beautiful at any time of the year, so deciding when to go hiking will depend only on your desires and physical capabilities.
In winter, the mountains are white with snow, and the sun shines so brightly that you won't go home without a tan. We invite experienced tourists who are not afraid of difficulties to go on a winter hike around Mount Fisht in snowshoes.
In spring and summer, rivers and waterfalls, lush greenery and flower-covered valleys await you. In autumn, the slopes of the mountains are covered with golden foliage, and the first snow appears on the peaks.
The mild climate of the North Caucasus is good both for outdoor activities and for those who want to improve their health by going on a health tour.

Question to the psychologist:

Hello, I feel like I'm not living my life. Everything is in order in my family, my parents are together, I have a younger sister. I am 20 years old, I study, I work. My parents are both Russian, and so am I, but the fact is that I feel like a Caucasian girl. At the age of 17 I converted to Islam. I feel “hot blood” inside me, I feel native in music, language, land, mentality. I am drawn to the Caucasus. I want to move there for permanent residence, learn the language, absorb traditions, but there is fear and resentment that people will not accept me. Nobody is waiting for me there, neither relatives nor acquaintances are there. I regret that I have already wasted 20 years, not for myself. I understand with my head that no matter what I do, the fact cannot be changed, I am Russian and everyone else does not care what I have inside, no one will delve into this with a banal acquaintance. I am afraid that I will have to come to terms with the fact that I was born in the wrong place and the wrong one.

Please tell me how I can live with this, with the fact that I will constantly have to explain something to people, provided that I have always lived without giving a damn about everything and everyone, according to the law “I do what I want”. And is all this normal from the point of view of psychology?

The psychologist Unterova Victoria Vladimirovna answers the question.

Hello Rita! They say: "Be afraid of your desires - they can be fulfilled." And indeed, not always when our dreams come true, we are ready for change. Sometimes it turns out that in a past life there were many pluses, that everything seemed completely different. It is worth remembering that any change carries its own characteristics, some of which will be positive, and some - minuses, the "shadow side" of the situation.

And in order to judge whether it is worth changing your life radically, you only need one thing - to try on this new life for yourself for a while.

What prevents you from going to the Caucasus for a while? For 3 weeks, a month? Talk to local residents, evaluate how things are going about employment, look around. And only after several such trips to make a global decision.

You don't have to explain anything to anyone. And decisions that are not to the detriment of your life and health, and the life and health of other people are completely normal.

You have the right to live the way you want. But it pays to think well and realistically. Perhaps there are other people with the same desires as you. Try to meet like-minded people on thematic forums, talk with them. All this will help you to get the most complete picture of future actions.

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