What to do in Lapland in winter. Lapland in winter is not only about Santa! Seeing the Northern Lights in Finland: New Opportunities

Lapland is the largest area in Finland and, perhaps, one of the most amazing and attractive in terms of tourism due to its magnificent landscapes, untouched nature and original culture. Travelers come here both in summer and in winter. These regions attract both lovers of extreme sports and adventures, as well as lovers of a relaxing holiday. We will tell you how to spend an unforgettable vacation in Lapland, as well as what to see in this amazing northern region.

Northern Lights in Lapland

History of the region

Finnish Lapland or Lappi is only part of a vast historical region, which is divided between Suomi, Norway, Sweden and Russia. Despite the fact that Lapland has never been an independent state, the unique and original culture of the indigenous inhabitants of the region, the Sami, a small northern people, has been preserved here.

A special page in the history of Lapland is the attacks of the "gold rush", which in the last hundred years alone covered the region three times. Precious metal mining in the northern region continues today. By the way, just over twenty years ago, the fourth largest Lapland nugget was found on a tributary of the Ivalojoki River - this “treasure” weighed more than 140 kilograms.

Lappi has a particularly harsh climate: most of it is located north of the Arctic Circle, winter lasts almost half a year. In the cold season there are long polar nights, and in the warm season - polar days.

Lapland in winter

Lapland in our minds is inextricably linked with the winter fairy tale and the New Year: that is why huge flows of tourists rush here in December and at Christmas. On New Year's Eve in Lapland, you should definitely visit the Santa Claus village in Rovaniemi: in the official residence of the fairy tale character, you can send a congratulatory letter, ride a roller coaster, play snowballs and even take a picture with Santa himself. Also in the region you will find a lot of opportunities for an active and eventful winter holiday. First of all, you should pay attention to the ski resorts of this region: here you can enjoy clean snowy slopes, landscapes of pristine nature and plenty of snowboarding and skiing. The most popular winter sports destinations are Levi, Ylläs, Saariselka, Salla, Lapin, Luosto, Ounasvaara and Ukkohalla.

In winter, dog and reindeer sledding is also very common in Lapland: the so-called "winter safaris". For example, not far from the Lapland town of Ivalo there is a dog kennel for 140 dogs: from here you can go on an exciting multi-day trip. Farms where you can ride reindeer with a breeze are located in the town of Luosta, in the municipality of Kuusamo, near Rovaniemi and in many other parts of Lapland.

Snowshoeing and snowshoeing are also popular in Lapland, where you can take trips to the Arctic Ocean and even drive to and from Norway.

For especially brave tourists in winter Lapland there is also such entertainment as swimming in the hole, which, by the way, is a centuries-old tradition for the peoples of this region.

Lapland in summer and autumn

In the warm season, it is worth going to Lapland to relax in the pristine nature without the extreme conditions of the harsh polar winter. The only thing is that you should be well prepared for a meeting with numerous Finnish midges and mosquitoes.

If you are a fan of extreme recreation, then in the summer in Lapland you can go rafting down the Muonionjoki and Tornionjoki rivers. Connoisseurs of more peaceful leisure should go to the local forests for berries and mushrooms. Also, these northern regions are a great place for hiking with tents.

In autumn, you can go hunting in the pristine forests near the city of Rovaniemi and bring real hunting trophies from here. In September, October and November you can hunt hare, capercaillie and even elk here.

By the way, two interesting events take place in Finnish Lapland in the summer. From June 27 to July 1, Rovaniemi hosts the Yutayaset International Folklore Festival, where you can see performances of musical groups performing songs and dances of the northern peoples. The city of Sodankylä hosts the Midnight Sun Film Festival from 13 to 17 June: during the wonderful white nights you can see films by famous Finnish and foreign directors.

National parks

National parks are a special pride of all Finland, and, of course, Lapland. These places are worth visiting both in winter and summer, depending on what you want to see: snowy expanses or green forests. The largest national park in Lapland is Lemmenjoki, covering an area of 3000 km²: here you can see bears, lynxes, wolves, otters and other representatives of the rich Finnish fauna. Reindeer herders and gold diggers also work in the park.

Pallas-Ounastunturi Park will impress you with its numerous gorges, in Pyhätunturi you can see some of the most ancient mountain formations on the planet, and in Urho Kekkonen you will get acquainted with the taiga nature and its numerous inhabitants: for example, finches, partridges and bears. In the northern waters of the Baltic Sea, Peremeri Park is located, with about 30 wild islands and picturesque reefs. You can get to it only by boat: you can take a boat taxi in the coastal villages of Kemi or Tornio: there is also a chance to see seals while traveling. In Lemmenjoki Park, the magnificent Ravadasköngas waterfall awaits you, and in Riisitunturi you will see the famous Korouoma Canyon, which stretches for 30 km. Urho Kekkonen is worth a visit in order to enjoy the view of the Korvatunturi fell: as legend has it, it is the home of the Finnish Santa.

Museums

Arktikum, located in Rovaniemi and dedicated to the life of the Arctic region, is considered to be the main museum of Lapland. Also in the capital of Lappi is the Lapland Museum of Lumberjacks, and in Kemi - an interesting gallery of precious stones. In the town of Tankavaara, located in the Sodankylä region, there is a museum dedicated to gold. Here you will get acquainted with the history of gold mining, and in an artificial pond you can try yourself as a gold sand hunter. Five kilometers from the resort of Luosto, on Mount Lampivaara, there is an amethyst mine, which can also be visited as a tourist. By the way, Lampivaara is the only place in Europe where these stones are still mined.

From Lapland, in addition to unforgettable impressions, it is worth bringing original souvenirs as a gift to friends and family. Usually products from deer skin and antlers, crafts from arctic birch bark, famous Sami hats, and mittens are brought from these regions. For representatives of the strong half of humanity, Finnish knives, for example, from Marttiini, will be an excellent gift. In the capital of Lapland, in the city of Rovaniemi, there is an exhibition hall located near the Arktikum building, where you can see the collection of knives and purchase your favorite products.

Related material

Seeing the Northern Lights in Finland: New Opportunities

Northern Finland is a truly fabulous land. And even if you have already visited the residence of Santa Claus, tried the local cuisine, rode a dog or reindeer sled, this region will still find something to surprise you with.

Svetlana Shirokova

In the snowy restaurant, there are seats made of ice and covered with reindeer fur. Here you can taste Lappish cuisine or visit the ice bar, which is located in a corner with a 10-meter snow cover, and drinks are served in ice cups.

And of course, a variety of Finnish vodka is presented here. There are ice statues in the art gallery, children will love the play park and snow tunnels. For entertainment, we recommend visiting a reindeer farm and trying a reindeer sleigh safari - an unforgettable experience. Reindeer are the national pride of the country, they are an integral part of the life and nature of the Arctic, and reindeer are also considered to be Santa Claus's helpers. Reindeer teams used to be the only means of transportation on snowy terrain. Before the trip, you will need to go through a briefing. Passengers are offered reindeer skins to make it comfortable to sit in the sleigh. By the way, all reindeer in Finland have chips, but there are not so many reindeer farms in the country. Horns and hooves are used to make jewelry and furniture, and venison dishes are served in the best restaurants in Finland. By the way, you can get the rights to drive a reindeer team. They are valid for 5 years.

Lapland: Levi

Talking about Lapland, one cannot fail to mention Levy. It is the largest winter recreation center in Lapland and is located in the Kittilä region in western Lapland, where the highest mountains are located. The place is located 100 meters north of the Arctic Circle, 15 kilometers from the airport of Kittila. This resort is the venue for the World and European Cup competitions in various types of skiing. It has already been voted the best ski resort in Finland three times already. It is an international tourist center and also the most fashionable ski resort. It is more reminiscent of Alpine resorts than others: all services are concentrated in the Lapland village, and hotels, cottages and bungalows are located in close proximity to the slopes. In general, the resort is very cozy. Everything is close here - spa hotels, many snowmobile rental companies, excellent cross country and snowmobile trails.

Aquapark Spa Hotel Levitunturi

The magnificent nature of Lapland is preserved here, there is a wonderful water park Spa Hotel Levitunturi. This is the water center of the Levi resort, decorated in the Lapland style, here you will find 17 (!) types of pools, as well as 9 saunas.

Levi provides wonderful opportunities for outdoor activities, here every amateur and professional will get their dose of adrenaline: fishing, hiking in the surroundings, dog sledding, more than 600 kilometers of snowmobile trails, traditional reindeer farms. Thanks to the artificial snow preparation system, the season can continue until early June. Experienced skiers can try their hand at the World Cup track with a final section slope of 52%. Here, on the slopes of the Levi Hill and its surroundings, there are more than 200 kilometers of excellent skiing trails. From entertainment - shops, spa-salons, restaurants, nightclubs, there is also the largest dance floor in Lapland - "Hullu Poro Arena".

Finland is the land of the northern lights. And in order to comfortably observe such an event, special cottages - igloos - were invented. This is a completely glass house with a glass roof in the middle of the forest, on a hill. Despite the thin transparent walls, the house is protected from bad weather by special thermal glass, which, thanks to special technologies, never gets cold or fogs up. The glass igloo offers a gorgeous view of the northern lights, only the stars are visible. By the way, you can live in such a house. It has a lovely large bed, armchairs, a small bathroom and a kitchen. Around only a snow-covered forest, silence, peace - in short, complete relaxation.

When planning your itinerary in Finland, don't forget to include the Hand. And you can stay in Ruka Village. Here you will find beautiful large rooms with a kitchen, a sauna and even a washing machine. The famous Hand is the gateway to Lapland, which is located on the threshold of the Arctic Circle. This is 450 kilometers of beautiful flat trails laid over rough terrain. The ski slopes are mostly red and blue, with some black ones as well. The ski center is located on the territory of the Oulanka National Reserve. This is one of the best parks in Europe for snowboarding and freeskiing. Here in 2005 the World Freestyle Championship was held.

Ski tours start already in October, and the weather is perfect for skiing until May. It is here that the longest ski season in Finland (9 months of winter). You will find modern ski lifts, excellent service and well-prepared slopes. 30 slopes Ruka is a varied skiing for everyone: gentle slopes and children's areas with free lifts for beginners, steep black slopes, a freestyle center with excellent instructors who give lessons in Russian, an excellent snow park.

And even the polar night does not prevent you from enjoying skiing - out of 30 slopes, 28 have artificial lighting. The pride of the Ruka resort is a high-speed lift with 6-seater chairs Ruka Express. Ruka is the training base of the Finnish snowboard team. And this is one of the reasons why special attention is paid to the condition of the tracks.

Kuusamo, one of the largest northern cities in Finland, is located 25 kilometers from the ski center. It harmoniously combines the peace and quiet of untouched nature with the conveniences of a modern urban center.

The highlight of Lapland excursions is snowmobile safaris. This is not a luxury, but not only a means of transportation. This is a great opportunity to cross snow-covered forests, feel nature, touch its pristine purity and get a huge boost of vivacity and vitality, which gives the unique beauty of the surrounding world.

Dog sledding is one of the favorite pastimes of tourists. If you have time, visit a husky farm. These are amazing creatures, outwardly similar to wolves, but completely tame. Huskies are loyal, hardworking, conscientious friends and helpers.

Lapland: Vuokatti

From Ruka to Vuokatti can be reached in 4 hours. This small town and resort is located in the heart of Finland, in the midst of the stunning beauty of lakes and hills. This is one of the most modern and versatile winter recreation centers not only in Finland, but throughout Scandinavia! Thanks to its varied activities (mountain skiing, Santa Claus village Kuhmo, snowmobile and dog sledding, restaurants with traditional cuisine), Vuokatti resort is ideal for families. Today the resort is a city of 4 hotels, many cottages, nightclubs, sports facilities, shopping centers and a market. Ski slopes are designed for any level of skiing, these are 200 kilometers of ski slopes, special tunnels for skiing and snowboarding. In summer there is a high quality golf course which is one of the most beautiful golf courses in Finland.

You can also visit the world's largest indoor adventure park. Angry Birds Activity Park Vuokatti. It is a fun and exciting place for children and youth of all ages. It opened in December 2012 and quickly became a very popular family destination. There are various exciting bridges/slides, tunnels, game screens, zip lines, football arenas, floorball, trampoline, pedal car track, golf course, training area for all types of freestylers of all ages. .

What to say in the end? Coming here, to Finland, a person becomes a part of nature. The unique climate, the wild northern nature - all this we, the inhabitants of megacities, do not have enough of. That's why Finland is the perfect holiday destination.

Traveling around the country allows you to see it in a real way, not just as a beautiful background outside the hotel window, but as a land full of secrets and beauties with ancient history and untouched nature.

Impressions of endless forests and countless lakes fill the soul with purity and energy, and memorable photographs will undoubtedly arouse the admiration of relatives and friends. They say that the one who saves real beauty will remain happy. The Finns have managed to keep their entire environment clean while living in a country of high technology and comfort, where you suddenly realize with great surprise that winter is clean to the human eye, with exceptionally white snow.

"Just think! How much curious, and sometimes funny, he could hear and see if he were allowed to fly with wild geese across the country, to the north, to Lapland itself!"

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Lapland? Cool! What to do there? Such a dialogue inevitably happened to everyone to whom I informed about my intention to visit this region. But really, what is there? Everyone knows that in Lapland Santa, snow and ... and this usually ends the knowledge. Therefore, I will try to fill this gap. So, let's go in order.

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Santa is here!

This inscription inevitably meets anyone who passes a small village 5 km north of Rovaniemi. And, surprisingly, Santa is really here, and the village is nothing but the village of Samogo (Santa Claus Village)! Here is his house, on the roof of which the indicated inscription glows. Here you can turn to him face to face and ask your burning question about the prospects for getting by the New Year, for example, a radio-controlled helicopter or a new Toyota Land Cruiser. According to one theory, Santa lives in the Arctic Circle. Therefore, right in front of its porch there are pillars with the corresponding inscription, symbolizing this geographical landmark. You can cross this line back and forth or dignifiedly stand with one foot beyond the Arctic Circle, the other - in it. Right next to it is his post office, perhaps even the first most visited place in the village. It is here that letters from children from all over the world come and it is from here that congratulations from Santa sent by the hands of his temporary "helpers" leave all over the world. Each postcard and letter receives the official Arctic Circle postmark. Postcards and stamps cost the same as in any other store. They don't charge for a stamp. You can send it immediately or by Christmas. There is also an amusement park, hotels, souvenir shops and everything you need to have fun at Santa's house.

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But this is not his only home. 250 km to the North is the town of Kakslauttanen, where his second residence (Santa "s resort) is located. Santa's second house here looks larger than the first, richer, bigger, brighter and, one might even say, more beautiful. The area around the house is interestingly decorated.

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Everything is beautiful, but somehow everything is without a soul. For example, in a gift shop a very boring set of goods. For an additional fee, you can stay with Santa, and even celebrate the New Year with You-Know-Who at a gala dinner.

Guess who these people are in the picture with the deer? The correct answer will be below

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Snow

That's what Lapland really has a lot of - it's snow. The northern climate here manifests itself in all its glory: winter starts early, ends quite late, polar day in summer, polar night in winter, elevation changes are small, and the area is covered with tundra forests, where the main inhabitants of these places walk - deer. The nature around is fascinating: spruces covered with snow, many lakes with countless picturesque islands create the feeling of winter Narnia.

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It is better to get into Narnia, as expected, through the closet, dressing in it warmly and in layers. By the way, fur coats are not held in high esteem here, everyone prefers practical and warm sports winter clothes. In the case of a gala evening, an evening dress is put on under it, and shoes are brought with them as a "shift". This allows you to remain irresistible during the evening and healthy and warm throughout the holiday.

Now that everyone is properly dressed and in a winter fairy tale, it's time to entertain yourself with something. And at the same time to answer the secret question ...

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What to do there?

The main thing that tourists from all over the world come here for, and especially the inhabitants of Japan, is the Aurora Borealis, an incredibly beautiful and mesmerizing natural phenomenon known as the Northern Lights. About how and why this happens, you can learn from any source. But that's not the point. The main thing is the sensations that you experience while watching slowly shimmering colors in the dark night sky. They form uncomplicated figures, stretch out into a smooth wide line, slowly disappear and just as slowly reappear. The dominant green colors of flashes can be replaced by a rarer "luxury" version with shades of red and blue. According to the beliefs of the Saami (the indigenous population of Lapland), flashes of Radiance are traces of the tail of a large celestial Fox. Watching the radiance is like meditation. You can abstract from everything external, even from a temperature of -21 degrees. Although sooner or later she still can win. Since this phenomenon is natural, it is impossible to predict where, how and when it can be seen, and also whether it can be seen at all. The main condition is a clear starry sky, better away from the light noise of the city. There are special sites that analyze solar activity and make a prediction whether it is possible to see the aurora on a given day and with what probability.

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But the Shining - although the main thing, but still not the only entertainment in Lapland.

Before continuing, here's a little digression into geography. Rovaniemi is a pretty city in the southern part of Lapland, but it is also the northernmost of the major cities in Finland. Further north, up to the border with Norway and Russia, you can find only small towns and villages. During the trip, we were based in the town of Saariselka (about 250 km from Rovaniemi to the North). Therefore, a further description of the activities is given on the example of this small but very nice town.

So, we say Lapland, we mean snow, and we say snow - we mean all possible types of winter activities.

Of course, first of all, these are skis (cross-country). For athletes in Saariselka there is a large selection of very high quality trails for every taste and level of training. The tracks are processed by a snowcat every day, a ski track is made on the sides for the classics, and the middle is left for skating. By the way, the Russian cross-country skiing team from Murmansk trains in Saariselkä.

He trains and then successfully performs at international competitions. For experienced skiers, there is the whole infrastructure: hotels have rooms for storing equipment, dryers, in stores you can buy all the necessary consumables, such as ointments, paraffins and a bunch of all sorts of different and interesting jars and accessories. Any necessary equipment can be rented from local tour operators. Therefore, even a poorly trained athlete is unlikely to be able to avoid a ski trip, at least 1 time per vacation.

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Anyone who does not consider himself an athlete, but nevertheless still has not escaped this fate, can sharpen his skis at the Laanihovi hotel (from the entrance to the ski track to the right). Firstly, on the way you can stop and take a breath in a small themed bar on the territory of a tiny dog farm.

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There is, in fact, a hut-bar, a mini-zoo with huskies and deer, a tent with a fireplace and a couple of interesting buildings - all together, like a small village, illuminated by lanterns. And already in the hotel Laanihovi you can take part in a funny tradition - dancing in ski boots. Every day, from 2 to 5 pm, since the 60s of the last century, people come here on skis and dance (as you might guess right in ski boots). And, of course, they drink a little. A local band plays Finnish songs, the bartender prepares cocktails, and couples swirl. In general, there is a very warm feeling when you see how local residents and tourists, sometimes not very young anymore, have a great time talking and dancing.

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This is a great sport for non-athletes: skiing actively, stopping at a bar for a drink, then skiing again with renewed vigor - and at the end of the route a delicious lunch and dancing. Then again on skis and back. Or, if such inhuman loads still undermine the health of the skier, a taxi is called for delivery to the house (all taxis in Saariselkä and the surrounding area are equipped with a ski rack).

Alpine skiing is also represented, although not so extensively. In Finland, in principle, there is no large difference in heights, but there are also hills here, although small, and, subjectively, still higher than in the Moscow region. What is very important for many, the lifts here are chairlifts.

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Those who do not have the skills to descend the mountain, standing on skis with ingenious bindings, can use the classic sled. They can be taken free of charge in every hotel. The ascent to the hill takes about half an hour along a pleasant road among snow-covered trees, the descent takes place in the same place, only in the other direction and much faster. At the top, in addition to an excellent view of the surroundings, again to maintain strength, there is a nice cafe with everything you need. And also a gift shop. But be careful: while you, having lost your vigilance, relax and gain energy after lifting, your sled can become an easy prey for intruders who refute the proverb: "If you like to ride, love to carry sleds." Moral: keep the sled in sight.

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Snowmobiles are definitely the next main way to get around in the snow. A snowmobile is not a toy, but a means of transportation, so there are special tracks for them, signs and even police who enforce the rules of snowmobile traffic. By the way, it was in Saariselkä that the Guinness record was set for the distance covered by a snowmobile on water. Snowmobile trips can also be booked with any local tour operator.

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You can also ride deer and dogs. Well, yes, of course, the feeling that it is you who is driving the team is still deceptive, since they run along a pre-worked out route. But the charm of communication with animals, and especially with Huskies (if you choose a trip with dogs, it is very difficult to overestimate).

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For a Husky safari, everything you need is provided on the spot: overalls and, if desired, special shoes, hats and mittens. Then there is a briefing. One person sits in a sleigh, another drives it, then they switch. The dogs know the route, and control consists only in the timely application of the brake - on the descents and to maintain the distance between the teams. There are five dogs in the sled. Dogs run silently and easily, only on steep slopes they need help. But as soon as they stop, a deafening squabble begins with each other, with the neighbors in the team. The Husky has two main pleasures - eating and running, and it is still unknown which of them is more important. The trip itself lasted about an hour, then tea and biscuits and a tour of the farm. Each dog has its own booth, the older ones teach the younger ones. They even give puppies to hold - and it is not clear who squeaks more - a frightened puppy or a satisfied guest.

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There are also skates, snowshoes, games of curling and ice stock, etc.

After you have a good load on skis, sledges, skates ... (underline as necessary) you just need to go to the sauna. How would Finland be without a sauna?! Better yet, go to a traditional smoke sauna (next to Saariselkä, one is located in Kakslautannen). If you are close to the topic of baths and saunas - you will get great pleasure.

Especially for children (as well as frivolous adults) there is an Angry Birds Activity park. This is a small entertainment complex for those who like to climb, jump, ride, and generally just lovers of Angry Birds. Although it is a children's complex, being an adult, it is also quite possible to hang out here for a couple of hours. For example, to feel like a bird - ride a bungee, breaking a pyramid of plush pigs at the end with your carcass, or jump into a foam pool, ride slides and shoot, as expected, at pigs. There are few attractions, but they are all made interestingly and soundly.

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Those who do not feel like an athlete at all and want cultural attractions also have something to do. In Saariselka itself, you can get to a major international jazz festival, which is quite unexpected for such a small town. A 20-minute drive from Saariselkä is the town of Ivari, the capital of Sami culture. A good place to start here is Siida, the museum of the indigenous culture of Lapanda. Here you can see how people lived on this earth for many hundreds of years.

Also in Ivari is the Saami Parliament, a government body that influences Finland's policy towards small peoples. You can walk along it, there is a mini-museum. By the way, in Finland they do a lot to preserve the Sami languages and culture - they mainly build schools and teach children there in Sami, and also arrange festivals and holidays. Russian Saami from the Kola Peninsula are also invited to them. They say they are coming.

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On the way from Saariselkä to Rovaniemi (or vice versa), you can visit the small pleasant town of Sodankylä, picturesquely located on the river. There is a wooden church there, one of the very few preserved pre-war buildings in the city, built already in 1689 (!!!), unfortunately, it is open to the public only in summer.

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In Rovaniemi itself, it is worth visiting the Arktikum Museum. It's hard to miss: a large remarkable building in the form of a high glass tunnel overlooks the river bank. There are many halls inside - a kind of logically arranged labyrinth. The museum is dedicated to everything that can be found beyond the Arctic Circle: flora, fauna, natural phenomena, people and events that took place in Lapland from antiquity to the present day. Arktikum is not a collection of dusty exhibits at all, but a live adventure for visitors of all ages. For example, you can study the voices of local animals and birds, hear the disappearing languages of the Saami peoples, go to the ice room, and those who have not yet been lucky enough to see the real Northern Lights, watch its imitation.

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Next to Arktikum, in the building of a former factory, there is a mini-museum and a shop of Finnish knives Martiini.

In general, Rovaniemi is a very pleasant city. In the center is Lordi Square (named after the very scary guys who won Eurovision for Finland), and a beautiful bridge was thrown across the river.

Nature lovers traveling the roads of Lapland will be generously rewarded with views of the reindeer herds grazing in their natural habitat. Close not allowed, but a lot.

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For the patient - the correct answer to the question about the picture. It depicts... Santa's parents.

Gastronomic tourism

It is impossible to remember deer and not touch on the topic of food. For those who think that venison is a tough, fibrous meat with a specific smell - here you will disbelieve it. Deer meat can melt in your mouth, be more tender than chicken and have the most tempting smells. Well cooked meat is not cheap. But everything that is cooked in Lapland from reindeer is insanely delicious, and I especially want to note the venison steak (very tender) and the traditional dish of finely chopped venison with mashed potatoes, lingonberry jam and pickles (especially in the Pirkon Pirtti restaurant in Saariselkä) . For those who find the combination of meat, potatoes and jam strange - try it first, and if you don't like it, I have nothing more to say to you. Everything is made from reindeer, even carpaccio and burgers. In the center of Saariselkä Opposite the Panimo bar there is a small burger Grillo. The owner himself prepares the freshest burgers, sausages and other quick pleasures, from venison and not only. The furnishings are spartan: three tables and heavy stools made of solid pieces of logs. Very simple and pleasant atmosphere and very very tasty food. True, the choice of drinks is quite small.

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In addition to venison dishes, Lapland also makes cheese, which is unexpectedly called "bread cheese". It is made from cow's milk, shaped into a large round cake and lightly char-grilled at the end of cooking, which gives it its mottled appearance and name. The cheese is fresh, slightly elastic. Another magical local dish is made from it - Lapland cheese dessert. Hot cheese stewed in a creamy sauce, served with cloudberries (or cloudberry jam) and whipped cream (to taste). Reheated cheese slightly changes its texture and creaks pleasantly on the teeth, which is why it is sometimes called "creaky cheese". When you go uphill with a sled for a long time and at the top you find the only cafe with such an unearthly dessert, you understand that although you haven’t ridden yet, you have already been rewarded for climbing.

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In the center of the local evening life, the Panimo Bar is also a great place to dine. By the way, Finns usually do not eat in bars, preparing for this in advance at home or in other establishments. Therefore, there are practically no chances for a drink and a bite to eat at the bar. But in Panimo, the soup of the day is cooked for the suffering. One for the whole day, served with bread and butter. The portion is generous, the soup is very tasty and fresh every day.

After eating it is sometimes necessary .... right! - drink up.

Our guide (Russian by origin), who lives in Finland, complained about the lack of a drinking culture: they don’t clink glasses, mix different drinks and, in general, behave in every possible way in this matter. But the lack of culture is more than offset by an abundance of enthusiasm. The state monopoly restricts the sale of drinks stronger than light beer throughout Finland. You can buy them only in Alko stores. But this is if in stores, but in any bar - no problem. They drink a lot of interesting things here, from hot fruit drink with vodka (for warming up and maintaining strength, for example, on a ski track), and, of course, just beer, to liquorice and resin liqueurs that are quite unusual for our taste (for the first time), and as well as any cocktails based on them. Also popular is "kakau mintu" - a hot drink made from cocoa and mint liqueur, sometimes topped with whipped cream. It all sounds strange, of course, but it tastes very good.

If you suddenly happened to get to Lapland in the summer and are overcome by thirst ... but not for alcohol, but for gold, you can try to quench it by mining some precious metal yourself. Similar excursions are organized by tour operators in Saariselkä. And, if you are lucky, a reasonable question arises, what to do next with the production? The answer is simple: as befits a gold digger, go to a bar and drink. At Panimo, the gold will be valued and exchanged for an appropriate amount of beer or other recreational drinks. But the main thing is that Panimo has a very correct atmosphere of a classic pub, locals, tourists, and bartenders themselves have a great rest here in their free time. A truly central place in Saariselkä, both in location and in spirit. They also brew 2 types of their own beer.

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Accommodation

Now that it has become clear that Lapland is interesting and you should definitely go, let's consider how to get here and where to stay. There are two airports in Lapland - in Rovaniemi and in Ivalo. From Moscow, you can get there on a Finnair flight with a change in Helsinki. By land transport from Rovaniemi to Saariselkä it takes about 250 km, from Ivalo 15 km. In any of these places you can take a bus or rent a car.

When, finally, all the difficulties of moving are behind, it's time to move in.

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In Saariselka you can stay in one of the hotels, of which there are many for every taste. Or in the apartments, which are also widely represented here. If you stay in an apartment - there is a large store in the city, where you can buy everything you need and live in your little winter fairy tale, away or close to people, as you like.

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Not far away, in Kakslauttanen, there is a large complex Kakslauttanen hotel and igloo village. Houses of various sizes and igloos are scattered over a fairly large area. There are 2 types of igloos here: snow, traditional, where you can sleep without wind in a warm sleeping bag right on a snow bed. And, more comfortable, completely glass. It is understood that from them it is possible to observe the northern lights and / or stars.

In theory, this sounds great, but now in fact: at the cost of a glass igloo of 300 (!!!) euros per night, you get a small cute house in which there are two beds and a cubbyhole with a toilet and a washbasin, without a shower (the shower is in the sauna across the river, walk for 7 minutes). And it's all. Behind the forest of radiance surrounding the igloo, to be honest, it is not very visible, you still have to go outside. Whether this pleasure is worth 300 euros is up to you. But remember (!!!): when leaving the house, always carry the keys with you, even if you just look out the door. Otherwise, you will have to deal with a nice and sociable, at first glance, the owner of the complex. "You can't move tables because I'm the boss here and I said so!" - nervous and slightly hysterical behavior, suddenly replaced by good nature and sociability, alerted and it immediately became clear why the local staff is so well-trained and amiable.

A Tale of a Bad Man in Lapland (the only negative experience of the whole trip)

"This service is paid and will cost 50 Euro!". It was with this phrase that Jussi Eiramo, the gray-bearded owner of the hotel complex Kakslauttanen hotel and igloo village and at the same time Santa's resort, and part-time acting Santa in his own resort, began his conversation when he was contacted at about 11 pm and told about the difficult the situation in which the guests of his hotel found themselves.

Meet Jussi!

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Given: 2 people who looked out for 10 minutes for the radiance; -15 degrees already, and the air temperature continues to decline steadily; a closed igloo door, with a key inside; and the complete absence of any staff. In this hotel, no one will tell you, and you will not read anywhere yourself, that the doors here are self-closing, and the key must be kept with you at all times, and the locks can act up. You also won't be told that the reception closes early enough, that the 24-hour service phone on the door is a sham, it hasn't been working for many years and will never be answered or called back. And no one here really cares that you have been stuck out in the cold at -18 for more than an hour, because there is simply no one else to turn to and nowhere to call. But what Jussi Eiramo really cares about is getting his 50 Euros. "They didn't pay!" - with such an angry call, he fell, half an hour after the gloomy girl with the keys nevertheless came around midnight and let the completely frozen people back into the house after several hours in the cold.

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It’s just that we were a little less lucky than those whose door was slammed when life was still in full swing in the complex, but certainly more than those who did not receive help in this “hospitable” hotel and were forced to ask for an overnight stay with their neighbors (see reviews on tripadvisor from previous years). Just in case (I hope it will not come in handy to anyone): the shower in the saunas of the complex works around the clock and it is warm there. But, fortunately, Jussi is the only vicious specimen.

In general, the Finns are very friendly, everyone speaks good English, some even Russian. They are very contagious laugh and dance merrily, sociable and curious.

About good people in Lapland (thanks)

Many thanks to visitfinland for such an unforgettable experience, guide Danila for the most interesting stories, solution of all problems and good mood, driver Juhha for his unprecedented skill in driving a huge iron monster. Another thin uncle with a long beard from a dog farm, the bartenders at Panimo, the owner of the burger joint, the waiters at Pirkon Pirtti, the aunt at the cafe on the mountain and everyone else with whom we were lucky enough to cross paths during the week. All these nice and nice people made our trip really memorable. I would especially like to note the feeling that all this is done not for the speedy pumping out of tourist money, but because this is such a lifestyle. It seems to me that they all constantly live with this pleasant attitude towards each other and their guests, and this is very captivating. Therefore, anywhere you feel calm and comfortable.

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So what is there, in Lapland?

Winter in Lapland is a resort, only snowy. This is a great way to get away from work and weekdays and plunge into a different culture and lifestyle. Yes, this resort has no sea and it is cold. But this is what creates a completely new look at the rest, which will not leave indifferent even those who do not really like winter. Here everyone will find something to their liking: sports, cultural, gastronomic, with and without children, or just a quiet, calm and secluded vacation in their own snowy fairy tale.

"And everywhere a beautiful and majestic land stood before him. Nils was very glad that he had seen Lapland, but he would not want to live there. Akka was certainly right when she said that the new settlers could leave the local land alone, providing it native inhabitants - bears and wolves, deer and wild geese, snowy owls and pied owls, and even Laplanders, who are simply made to live here."

The amazing journey of Nils Holgersson with wild geese

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nasupnik
14/08/2014 10:00

The opinion of tourists may not coincide with the opinion of the editors.