How to make a radio controlled racing boat with your own hands. Homemade submarine toy Make a radio-controlled submarine model

About amateur submarines, I was eager to build my own. At the same time, I wanted to make everything at home without the use of lathes and other machines. I myself come from the world of aircraft modeling. And this article will tell you how to build a simple radio-controlled submarine using only available materials from hardware stores and Chinese websites.

Theory
The submarine model is built according to the same principles as the real one. In the center there is a “robust” waterproof frame, inside of which all controls and electronics are hidden. On the outside, it is surrounded by a “light” permeable body, which serves as a streamliner and a beautiful appearance. Our model will consist only of a durable body.

At speed, the submarine can dive using depth rudders, and in a static position only with the help of a ballast tank. How it works? When floating on the surface, the mass of the boat is slightly less than the mass of the volume of displaced water (Archimedes' law). Those. if the boat has a volume of 3 liters, then its mass should be slightly less than 3 kg. Then the boat begins to draw water inside the durable hull. The volume of the hull remains the same, but the mass increases - and the boat sinks. At this moment, the air pressure inside the housing increases slightly, but not so much as to break the seal.

There are 3 main problems during construction. They are completely independent and can be solved separately.

  • radio equipment (2.4 GHz does not work underwater)
  • sealing - housing, engine shaft and steering rods
  • ballast tank

Radio equipment

2.4 GHz does not pass underwater. The easiest way to find old equipment is in the MHz band (27MHz, 35MHz, 40MHz, 72MHz or even 433MHz). Modellers still have them and you can find advertisements for sale on forums. A man gave it to me for free when he found out about the submarine.

Sealing
We need to ensure the tightness of 3 elements:

  • robust housing
  • motor shaft
  • steering control rods

Durable Case

often called WTC (Water Tight Cilinder) or WTC (Water Tight Cilinder), it is a plastic pipe with a diameter of 75 mm and a length of 600 mm. Cylindrical plugs with a groove for the sealing ring are inserted into it at both ends. The pipe is bought at a plumbing store, the plugs will be made from several layers of PVC sheet 4-5mm thick, and the rings will be ordered from China.




The plug will consist of 6 layers. The internal diameter of the pipe is 71 mm, the thickness of the sealing ring is 3.5 mm. Then the main sheets have a diameter of 70mm, small ones 65mm and outer ones 75mm. It is very important and very difficult to maintain the alignment of the sheets so that the rings are pressed evenly. For centering, a bolt with a diameter of 6 mm (or a construction pin) is used. We drill a hole, then draw a cylinder of the required diameter and cut it out with a jigsaw with a margin. We bring it to the desired diameter on the axis clamped in the drill. I sanded it with sandpaper on a block.

We also glue the sheets on the axis, trying to maintain perpendicularity. The best glue for PVC is "Moment-Gel". "Titan" doesn't take it, and neither does the usual "Moment". That's it, put on the rubber rings and go test for leaks.

Deadwood
This is the name of the unit that ensures the tightness of the motor shaft. Bearings are soldered into the ends of the outer pipe. The shaft is inserted and a thick lubricant (for example lithol) is driven into the pipe. It must be added sometimes, because... the water gradually washes away.

I bought shafts and bearings on Ali, copper tubes and lubricant on the construction market. I found bearings 3mm internal and 6mm external diameter. Accordingly, we buy 3 mm stainless steel shafts, and a copper tube with an internal 6 mm (the external one turned out to be 8 mm). It is necessary to buy special shafts; ordinary wire is not symmetrical, and there will be beatings.

For soldering you will need acid and a 3rd hand;)

Steering rods
The rods are brought out through rubber corrugations fixed on copper tubes with a diameter of 6 mm. The diameter of the rods themselves is 1.5mm. I used hard wire with the insulation stripped.

Ballast tank
This is usually the most difficult part of a submarine. But we will do it simply - we will use a micropump. More precisely, a peristaltic micropump - it holds the pressure itself and does not require additional valves. The pump itself is capable of developing a pressure of 1 atmosphere, which means it can pump the tank even at a depth of 10 meters. The pump is controlled in the same way as a conventional electric motor - a speed controller or servo with micro switches.

There is an option to fill a rubber ball, but it may burst. We will use a 150 ml syringe, called a Janet syringe. The pump itself moves the piston. You can also install sensors and control the volume of incoming water.

To speed up the dive, I changed the silicone tube to a 4mm internal diameter. The motor is designed for 6 volts, but I supply 12. As a result, the motor heats up a little, but not critically. The final speed is 100ml in 20 seconds.

Layout
The body is divided into "compartments".

  1. battery and receiver
  2. tank
  3. pump
  4. servo and speed controllers
  5. main motor
The tank must be in the middle so that the boat sinks horizontally (without trim).

The fastening elements are made of 5mm thick porous PVC sheet. Then they are tightened on iron pins located along the body. The rear plug should also be secured to studs to ensure the rigidity of the assembly with the motor and steering rods.


Balancing
The volume of the case is approximately 2.8 liters. The mass of all parts is about 1 kg, we had to add another 1.8 kg of weight. The main principle is simple: The volume of the surface part must be less than the volume of the tank. It can be of any weight, as long as the total remains 2.8 kg. Therefore, the surface elements are made of copper or thin plastics.

Balancing is carried out in 2 positions:

  • Surface - By moving/adding weights and gluing foam plastic to the underwater part, we achieve zero trim. It is important at this stage to attach the foam only below the waterline.
  • Submerged - add foam above the waterline and achieve the horizon.

  • telemetry: voltage, currents, depth, orientation
  • rescue: buoy, water detector
  • torpedoes, missiles
  • 3D printing of parts
On my home page you will also find:
  • links to products for purchase in China
  • drawings of a specific boat
  • more photos and videos of the construction process
Thank you for your attention!
I will try to answer all your questions.

Radio-controlled submarines are modern models of real boats that can dive underwater.

Types of submarine models

Simplified models are offered for sale, as well as more complex and fully functional copies of existing real submarines. Simple radio-controlled submarines can be classified as children's toys; they are very inexpensive. Sophisticated models refer to more complex professional radio-controlled equipment. They can dive to great depths and are able to move at quite high speeds. Some submarine models allow the installation of video cameras. Radio-controlled submarines of the second type are much more expensive.

Characteristics

Submarine models are popular with both children and adults who love such unusual gifts. The radio-controlled vehicle is capable of moving through water and also diving to depths.

The external design of the boats is also different. It can be either absolutely unique or copied from real combat submarines. Often on sale there are models equipped with a water pumping system, which is collected in the ballast part of the device. A similar system is installed on real submarines. Some models also have the function of automatic ascent in the event that the batteries used to propel the device are discharged. In this case, radio-controlled submarines are equipped with an electric motor. If the submarine has an internal combustion engine, it operates on conventional fuel. These are already professional models. And you need to start getting acquainted with the models with simple submarines. Models with three-channel and four-channel control are available. The boat dives to a depth of up to 60 cm on average, so it can be used in a swimming pool, bathtub or deep tank. To make the game more exciting, LED lighting is installed on the hull of the boat. Radio-controlled models of European and Chinese production are produced. Chinese models are much cheaper than similar European ones, although the quality of the two comparable models is almost the same.

Radio controlled submarines with camera

The submarine, equipped with a video camera, is built into the internal hull. The submarine can submerge, move in a given direction or not move, and precisely position itself under water, thanks to the presence of an automated ballast tank. The radio-controlled video camera on the boat is designed for wireless video recording at a depth of up to 5 meters. The video camera works even in the dark, as a special backlight is provided for this. You can monitor what is happening in real time. The video signal is sent to a special receiver, which is connected to a monitor, computer or TV. The outer hull of the submarine is painted bright yellow, easily visible in the water. The model is also equipped with an automated security system. When a low battery charge, a weak radio control signal or a leak is detected, the water from the ballast tank is automatically pumped out and the boat quickly floats to the surface.





Good day to all, dear friends! In today's article I would like to show you how to make a radio controlled boat. This homemade project is perfect for those who want to get into boat model making, but boat models are quite expensive. Assembling your own model will not be much cheaper, but it will be much more interesting than just buying a ready-made boat in a store. Well, okay, enough of the long prefaces, let's go!

And so, for this homemade product we will need:
- ABS plastic sheet.
- electric motors 180 class 2 pcs.
- boat propellers.
- adapter for the electric motor shaft.
- electrodes of suitable diameter.
- aluminum tubes, the internal diameter of which is equal to the external diameter of the electrodes.
- 2s 7.4v Lipo battery.
- a little wire.
- electronics from an old radio-controlled helicopter.
- aluminum plate.
- screws.

We will also need the following tools:
- Ruler.
- marker.
- stationery knife.
- thermal glue.
- drill.
- screwdriver.
- pliers.
- lubricant.
- soldering iron.

First we need to make the hull of the boat itself. It is best to use thick sheets of ABS plastic as the material for the case. On a sheet of plastic, using a ruler and marker, mark a rectangle 25cm long and 11.5cm wide.








After you have estimated the dimensions on a sheet of plastic, you should divide the upper part into rectangles, as shown in the photo below. This is necessary in order to draw the bow of our boat more symmetrically. And we try to make the bow of the boat as accurately as possible, but if you don’t succeed, you can download and print photo templates on the Internet.




Using a utility knife, cut a rectangle and cut off the excess from the rectangle. So that we get something similar to a boat. Then, using the same stationery knife, we divide our workpiece in half.


Using a utility knife, we cut off the corner on the workpieces that we just received. This is necessary so that they can be glued as tightly as possible at an angle.


Then we cut two blanks so that you get it, as in the photo below.


Apply thermal glue to the workpieces and glue them together. From the same plastic, two blanks similar to trigons should be cut. And we glue them to the boat to strengthen the hull. Throughout the entire assembly of the case, try not to skimp on the thermal glue and glue everything very well, this is necessary for the tightness of the entire structure.










Apply thermal glue to the indicated place and bend the plastic and glue the two ends together.


From the plastic used, two strips should be cut so wide that they are no higher than the back wall. And glue it to the places shown in the photo.










For the next step, we need to make a kind of “motor frame” on which the electric motors will be mounted. For the motor mount we will need some kind of metal plate; the author of the homemade product decided to cut it out of an aluminum profile. The plate must be placed in the boat so that it does not dangle there. On the aluminum plate itself, two large holes should be drilled for the electric motor shafts and four small ones for mounting the electric motors.




We fix the electric motors on the plate. The electric motors will be attached to the plate using a screw connection. Then we install adapters on the electric motor shafts.






We take our motor mount with electric motors and glue it to the back of the boat so that the distance between the back wall and the adapter is 1-2 cm.




For the next step we will need an electrode. The electrode in this design will be the drive axis; for this we need to remove the insulation from the electrode. It is very convenient to remove insulation from the electrode using pliers. After removing the insulation from the electrode, you need to check whether it will fit into the pre-prepared tube; if so, then continue.








Taking pliers, we divide the electrode into two identical axes. The length of the axes should be slightly longer than the tubes. Then we put the boat propellers on the axles so that they spin in different directions, and insert them into the boat through the tubes. But before inserting the axles into the boat, two holes for them should be pierced in the back wall.








The places where holes were made and tubes were inserted should be sealed with thermal glue to prevent water from getting there.




After removing the axles with propellers, you should lubricate the tubes where they are located with some kind of lubricant. If you do not lubricate, there will be strong heating in the rubbing areas, which will lead to expansion of the metal and an increase in resistance, which in turn can affect the load on the boat’s electronic system.


We solder the wires to the electric motors. And we solder the wires from the electric motors to the helicopter control board, where the helicopter engines were soldered. There is nothing to say about polarity; it is selected at random. The main thing is that after switching on, when adding gas, the electric motors rotate in opposite directions, and the boat moves forward. And when turning to the right, the left engine increased speed, and the left engine slowed down.










Glue the battery to the thermal body with glue. Having cut out a square from the material used, we will glue it to the control board using thermal glue, and this sandwich should also be glued to the body.








Let's make a roof for the boat, repeating the steps in the step-by-step photos. And we will decorate the boat with what you have.