Oxygen cylinders for mountaineering. List of products for climbing Elbrus. How to use an oxygen tank

Below are the lists of products that participants of trips to Elbrus and Kazbek should have from 2 to 5 stars. There are 3 lists - for 10, 11-12 and 13-14 days (select the one you need in the drop-down list), as well as their options with meat and without meat.

We use freeze-dried products that are light in weight, but as a result of cooking, full-fledged dishes are obtained from them:

You can buy this package of products from us or assemble it and cook it yourself. Although it is laborious, it is not difficult and quite possible. However, it should be noted that the price of a package assembled by yourself will be approximately the same as when buying a ready-made package from us.

High quality.

The list of products is compiled in such a way that the food during the trip is high in calories, high in protein, varied and tasty. The latter is especially important, since in the mountains it is usually not important with appetite due to lack of oxygen.

Vegetarians.

We respect and support those who do not eat meat on principle. Meat is not included in freeze-dried mixtures and is packaged separately. Thus, we have the opportunity to cook on a hike for vegetarians too. If you don't eat meat, let us know and we'll prepare a vegetarian package for you. The meat in it will be replaced by nuts.

How to cook such food?

Preparing food with such a package is very simple. It is enough to boil water, throw a certain number of servings of sublimate into it and cook for a while. This takes between 5 and 30 minutes depending on the altitude you are at (the higher the longer).

Who cooks for the trip?

The food is prepared by attendants from among the participants, as is customary in a normal mountain hike. They work in pairs. For one trip, each participant usually goes on 1-2 shifts. If the attendants do not understand something, the guides help them with this.

Grocery list

• Pack with meat for 11-12 days, grams Pack with meat for 10 days, grams Pack without meat for 11-12 days, grams Pack without meat for 10 days, grams Pack with meat for 13-14 days, grams Pack without meat for 13-14 days, grams

Day change.

Below is the daily menu. It is approximate and can be slightly changed, but basically this is the food that will be on the route. When compiling the menevka, we took into account the labor costs of the participants on certain days and correlated them with the caloric content of the diet. On heavy days, the caloric content of food is higher than on those days when there is less physical activity.

It is intended for additional oxygen supply of a person who is under conditions of low voltage (partial pressure) of oxygen in the surrounding air, in order to prevent hypoxia.

Operating manual And

The set of oxygen equipment "POISK" can be used in high-altitude conditions during climbing and search and rescue operations at an altitude of up to 9000 meters above sea level, when performing high-altitude flights (altitude over 4,000 meters) on airplanes, balloons, trikes and other aircraft , during parachute jumps from heights up to 10,000 meters (special design). And also when performing aerial surveys at a high altitude of 3000-4000 meters above sea level.

The kit includes (Fig. 1) a lightweight oxygen cylinder (1) with a capacity of 3 or 4 liters, equipped with a shut-off valve; reducer (2) with flow regulator (5) and oxygen mask (3) with flow indicator (4) and bayonet connector.

Additionally, the reducer can be equipped with a pressure gauge (6) to control the oxygen pressure in the cylinder and a cross-shaped adapter (adapter) for connecting several (up to 4) masks.

A set of oxygen equipment "POISK" is used on helicopters of UTair Aviation OJSC, which performs work under UN contracts, in Afghanistan, as well as in countries of the African continent, such as Sudan, Chad, Liberia, Congo, Sierra Leone, etc. This You could see the information on our website for several years.

During this time, our device has been flawless in operation, and compliance with the rules for its use has helped many of our customers conquer the highest mountain peaks on Earth. Ask about this from those who climbed with our oxygen supply system (information on the website). Our oxygen kit has become very popular.

We heard only one remark from climbers, only one wish - to improve the oxygen mask.

We met the wishes of the expedition leaders and our esteemed clients and opened a program for the development of oxygen masks and other means of supplying oxygen to the respiratory system.

Especially for the implementation of the new program, we held numerous consultations with scientific and production teams of St. Associate Professor

At the first stage of the program, new oxygen masks were developed, which are currently being produced. The prototype of the produced masks was tested in 2004 on Everest (Russell Bryce expedition).

In the future, we intend to develop and produce promising means of oxygen supply.

DEAR GENTLEMEN! WE MAKE EQUIPMENT FOR YOUR SAFETY. IT MUST BE EFFICIENT AND RELIABLE. TO MAKE IT SO WITHOUT YOUR PARTICIPATION IS DIFFICULT. WE ASK FOR YOUR PARTICIPATION: ADVICE, WISHES, CRITICAL COMMENTS. WE ARE OPEN FOR COOPERATION AND READY TO HELP IN THE IMPLEMENTATION OF YOUR IDEAS ([email protected] ).

Now a few main provisions of our CONCEPT:

— Oxygen masks are designed for supplementary oxygen supply to a person who is under conditions of reduced oxygen tension (partial pressure) in the ambient air, in order to prevent hypoxia, as well as to protect the face and respiratory organs from climatic influences.

- When climbing, it is advisable to use 2 masks: one - the main one, for climbing, the other - for rest and night sleep. Masks come in a variety of designs and fit and apply pressure to the face in different ways, allowing the skin and tissues to rest periodically.

— Currently, masks of three modifications are produced (description and photos are given below), differing in the shape of the front part and heading, material and size. Almost anyone can choose a mask that matches the shape of the face. Depending on the material and design of the front part of the mask, they differ in price, but provide the same oxygen supply.

- By design - masks of a closed type and have inhalation and exhalation valves, which create a slight resistance to breathing for the economizer to work.

- To ensure significant oxygen savings with its continuous supply, an economizer is used in all masks, which brings the oxygen consumption by the human body to 90%. The design of the economizer is described below.

— The units of the main masks of the entire consumer line are unified, which makes it possible to carry out minor repairs and replacements on their own directly in the mountains due to a group repair kit. You can purchase each unit and part of the masks from us or our distributors, as well as in our store in Kathmandu, Nepal.

- The new design solution of the stowage bag allows you to guarantee its safety when the mask is taken out and put on, and to ensure the cleanliness of the oxygen tract of the reducer and the connector during storage.

— The night mask is made up of standard, easily replaceable elements used in medicine; contributes to the restoration of the function of the upper respiratory tract after their cold damage during active breathing with cold air during the ascent; prevents excessive loss of heat and moisture when breathing dry cooled air through the use of a heat and moisture exchanger. — Masks are highly hygienic, easy to clean and wash.

“Our masks can be easily converted to work in environments containing harmful chemicals and dust through the use of special filters.

Rice. 2

The economizer (Fig. 2) is a thin-walled elastic latex bag (1) in a fabric cover (2), an oxygen supply system (3) from the flow indicator inside the bag, a tube (4) for connection to the oxygen mask cavity. The economizer, with its simplicity, allows for significant savings in oxygen, bringing its consumption by the human body up to 90% with continuous supply.

The maximum economy of oxygen in conditions of its deficiency is achieved by precise regulation of the flow rate using a special valve installed on the supply regulator.

Adjust the oxygen flow so that the economizer bag collapses completely on inhalation, fully inflates on exhalation, and remains inflated during the respiratory pause. If the bag does not collapse on inspiration, the flow of oxygen is too high and its consumption will be excessive.

The use of inspiratory and expiratory valves, which create little additional breathing resistance, is necessary to ensure the operation of the economizer.

The fabric packing bag for storing the mask consists of two compartments, the necks of which are tightened with cords with locks. The larger compartment stores the front part of the mask with the economizer and flow indicator, the smaller compartment stores the oxygen reducer and the oxygen tube with a bayonet lock. The oxygen hose is passed through the bottom of the bag, which is removed from the hose only for cleaning, washing or replacement. There is no risk of losing the bag. On the bag there is a pocket with a fabric insert, on which the name of the owner is marked with a waterproof felt-tip pen.

Rice. 3

"POISK-HIMALAYA LUX" (Fig. 3) - has high operational qualities; the front part (1) is made of natural soft rubber, hermetically adhering to the face along the line: bridge of the nose - cheekbones - chin. The tight fixation of the mask in the nasal area is ensured by the nose clip (2) in the form of a plastic spring located on the mask body above the nose.

The mask is available in three sizes.

The inhalation valve (3) is located in front of the mouth and nose, on the left is the exhalation valve (4). To the right of the inhalation valve, an economizer (5) is attached to the face of the mask. The exhalation valve and the economizer can be interchanged for your convenience. The economizer (5) is connected to the reducer via a flow indicator (8) with a bayonet lock (9).

The heading (6) for a reliable and uniform attraction of the mask to the face is made of a wide rubber-cloth tape running in two loops through the head and neck. For good fixation of the tape on the scalp, a rubber corrugated lining (7) is provided, which moves along the tape.

Rice. 4

"POISK-HIMALAYA" (Fig. 4) - has high operational qualities, is made of organosilicon (silicone) rubber, differs from the mask "POISK-HIMALAYA LUX" only in the material of the front part. The mask is available in three sizes.

Rice. 5

"POISK-BASIC" (Fig. 5) - the front part (1) is made of organosilicon rubber, has good operational qualities, tightly adjoins the face along the line running from the bridge of the nose between the zygomatic bones and the wings of the nose to the chin. A rubber bridge runs along the upper lip, which ensures that the obturator retains its shape. The mask has a universal size, suitable for most people with different types and sizes of faces.

The inhalation valve (2) is located in front directly at the level of the mouth, below is the exhalation valve (3). To the right (or to the left, depending on the modification) of the inhalation and exhalation valves, an economizer (4) is attached to the face mask, which is connected to the reducer via a flow indicator (6) with a bayonet lock (7).

The heading (5) for a reliable and uniform attraction of the mask to the face is made of a rubber-cloth tape running in two loops through the head and neck.

Rice. 6

"POISK-NIGHT" (Fig. 6) - is composed mainly of typical, easily replaceable elements used in medicine.

The set includes: elastic polyethylene facepiece (1) with nose clip (2) for fitting around the nose and head strap (3); economizer (4); heat and moisture exchanger (5); polyethylene tube for oxygen supply (6); a modified connecting tee (7), on which the listed elements are assembled. Additionally, the mask can be equipped with a flow indicator and a bayonet lock.

Any ascent to the mountains is associated with the use of special equipment for mountaineering. The main function of climbing equipment is safety. Since mountain climbing involves a lot of risk, the main task of climbing equipment is to reduce this risk to the minimum possible.

The composition of climbing equipment is formed on the basis of climbing conditions, seasons, terrain features, etc. Depending on these conditions, mountaineering equipment is selected.

Composition of climbing equipment

So, what climbing equipment to buy for climbing?

Climbing equipment includes:

• Safety system. One of the central pieces of equipment for climbing. Its main function is to keep the athlete from falling under the condition of a breakdown and to distribute the load in order to minimize injuries. There are several types of belay systems: lower (arbor), upper (chest harness) and full belay system.
• helmets. They serve as an additional means of protecting the climber's head during falls and rockfalls. The vast majority of modern helmets are made from lightweight plastics with a foam core.
• ropes. Equipment for mountain hiking and mountaineering is impossible to imagine without ropes. The rope serves as a means for belaying during ascents and descents, movement on closed glaciers, moving loads and rescuing climbers.
• Belay and descenders. Necessary for belaying a partner when climbing a route and for descending a rope. Safety and descending climbing equipment includes the following types: eights, glasses, Gri-Gri, in speleology Stop and its analogues are also used.
• Ice ax. Equipment for mountain tourism and mountaineering in severe winter conditions and in high mountains - in glacier zones. It is used for belaying on snowy slopes, cutting steps in ice, and also as a safety anchor.
• climbing hammer. Required for driving and knocking out hooks, bolts and work with embedded elements.
• Ice screws. Used for insurance on ice sections of the route. They are pointed screw-in metal tubes from 10 to 20 cm long with an eyelet for attaching a safety carabiner.
• climbing cats. Another important element of climbing equipment. Crampons are a special metal platform with teeth that are attached to the sole of a climbing boot. Serves to improve the adhesion of the boot to the ice surface.
• Carabiners. It is the most numerous element of equipment for mountaineering. The average number of carbines needed for one ascent is at least 20-30.

In addition to the listed items, climbing equipment may include clamps, quickdraws, loops, lanyards, ladders, rock hooks, blocks, rollers, transport bags and other mountaineering equipment.

Where to buy climbing equipment?

Since even a simple ascent requires a significant amount of climbing equipment, in addition to strength and reliability, it must have a minimum weight.

You can always buy climbing equipment from the world's best manufacturers, including climbing equipment Petzl, Black Diamond, Camp, etc., in the Sport-Marathon online store. The goods you have chosen will be delivered anywhere in Russia. Or come to our climbing equipment store on Saykina, 4.

The material was found and prepared for publication by Grigory Luchansky

Source: Garf B., Kropf F. Alpinism abroad.FiS, Moscow, 1957

Gear, equipment and food for climbers

Much attention is paid abroad to issues of special climber equipment.

Hundreds of different firms, competing with each other, sell various models of individual and group equipment, clothing, and footwear. Suppliers are most often handicraft artels and small factories, or rather workshops. In this regard, the cost of climbing equipment is significant. However, the quality of equipment and equipment is high. The most expedient model of this or that item of equipment is carefully researched and selected, the manufacturing process is developed in detail, which is then strictly observed, and strict control of finished products is carried out. In the production of climbing equipment, the general development of technology was reflected. Light alloys, high-alloy steels (for example, chromium-molybdenum), plastics, artificial fiber such as nylon, etc. are widely used.

Acquaintance with the latest achievements of the West in the production of climbing equipment should be of interest not only to numerous Soviet climbers, but also to those organizations that must supply Soviet climbers with varied and high-quality equipment and which, unfortunately, are not yet adequately coping with these duties. Of particular importance is the issue of equipment in connection with the intensive development of high-altitude mountaineering. In any Himalayan expedition, equipment is of the utmost importance and is of paramount importance. As an example, we point out that in the preparation of the 1953 British expedition to Everest, not only numerous firms, but also a number of research institutes, including such large organizations as the Arctic Institute, the Institute of Nutrition, the Central Research Base of the Military - Air Force at Farnborough, etc.

Prototypes of equipment are subjected to lengthy tests in the laboratory. Metal products are checked for static and dynamic strength, deformation, fatigue, corrosion resistance. Tents, clothing items are tested for strength, moisture resistance, high and low temperatures. In this case, the entire arsenal of modern experimental equipment is used (pressure chambers, wind tunnels, thermostats, artificial climate chambers, etc.).

However, this is still not enough. Released samples must undergo long-term tests in natural conditions. So, for example, before the last expedition to Everest, the British in December 1952 conducted comparative tests of numerous samples of clothing, shoes, tents, sleeping bags, etc. at the Jungfrau-Joch pass in Switzerland. The external conditions during the tests (with the exception of the height) were approximately the same as those that the British climbers had to meet in May 1953 on the southern saddle of Everest. The temperature was about -25, -28 ° C, and a blizzard often raged. Climbers changed boots, down suits, sleeping bags every day, wore a different type of boot on each foot, and compared their records every evening.

Finally, the expedition led by E. Shipton to Cho Oyu (see chapter II) had as its main goal testing equipment in natural high-altitude conditions and in this respect was, as it were, a rehearsal before storming Everest.

The same serious approach to equipment is observed in most other Himalayan expeditions, but the British expedition of 1953 can serve as a model in this regard.

In this small book, we are unable to cover in detail all the issues of climbing equipment and equipment used abroad. In addition, no description, of course, gives even a tenth of what a direct practical acquaintance with the best examples of foreign climbing equipment can give.

We give a brief description of the main equipment used abroad.

EQUIPMENT

Hook. Currently, almost hundreds of pitons are used when climbing extremely difficult wall routes in the Alps. It is appropriate here to remind our organizations that manufacture metal climbing equipment that rock pitons do not have to be standard. The endless variety of cracks that a climber can encounter requires an equally varied assortment of pitons. If the climber is armed only with standard hooks, for example, our type "L", then he is unlikely to be able to use them on a more or less difficult route. It is no coincidence that skilled climbers prefer to make various rock pitons in a handicraft way.

Rice. 40. Metal equipment.

Abroad, in addition to the usual vertical and horizontal hooks of various lengths, widths, thicknesses, extra-wide “petal” hooks are used (see Fig. 40, a and b), as well as the so-called universal hooks (see Fig. 40, d), used for both vertical and horizontal cracks.

The vertical hooks have a stop that increases the reliability of the clogged hook (see Fig. 40, c). All rock pitons for normal cracks are made of mild steel. To use wide cracks, dural hooks are often used, similar to ice hooks.

On fig. 40, d the use of a steel horizontal hook "1" in a wide crack as a spacer for the main duralumin hook "2" is shown.

On difficult routes for wider cracks, wooden wedges are often used (Fig. 41, a). Such wedges made of hard rock (oak, ash) can be used independently for insurance as artificial support points (Fig. 41, b) or in combination with an duralumin hook (Fig. 41, c).

Rice. 41. Wooden wedges.

Finally, in cases where it is necessary to overcome an absolutely smooth rocky area, devoid of any cracks for driving a hook, the so-called expanding hooks are used (Fig. 42). In this case, a hole is hollowed out in the rock with the help of a jumper, into which a split sleeve "c" is driven in. The cylindrical shank of the hook "a", which fits tightly into the sleeve "c", has a slot into which the wedge "b" is inserted. When driving the hook, the wedge enters the slot in the liner and pushes it apart. The shank, in turn, bursts the sleeve "in". There is enough friction to provide reliable insurance. On fig. 42, G And d the use of expanding hooks for insurance and as an artificial fulcrum is shown.

Rice. 42. Expanding hooks.

Carabiners. The design of carbines, since they were first used, has changed relatively little. In an effort to reduce weight, alloy steel or high-strength grades of duralumin began to be used for carbines. The most convenient is the shape of the carabiner shown in Fig. 40 e(We have this type of carbine known as the Rakovsky carbine). Such a carbine can be successfully used not only for insurance, but also as an artificial fulcrum for the hand.

rock hammers. In addition to conventional rock hammers, on difficult routes, weighted hammers are also used (Fig. 40, g), the use of which facilitates the laborious process of driving hooks and especially gouging a hole for expanding hooks.

Ice axes. In high-altitude ascents, as well as in ordinary snow-ice ascents of the Alpine scale, ice axes of the usual design are used. Lightening is achieved by reducing the sections through the use of high-strength steel for the head and selected, high-quality wood for the handle. On difficult wall routes, the conventional ice ax is replaced by a folding ice ax or "icebeil".

Cats. The design of the cats has also changed little. Ordinary ten-tooth crampons are used, and twelve-tooth crampons are used to overcome especially steep slopes. Weight reduction is achieved by using alloyed steel, and in some cases, duralumin. Dural crampons were used in high-altitude expeditions, for example, to Cho-Oyu in 1954. For the 1953 expedition, the British ordered especially lightweight crampons from Switzerland. Probably, in this case, the manufacturer overdid it and excessively reduced strength, since the leader of the expedition, D. Hunt, mentions that 12 pairs of cats were broken during transport work on the Khumbu glacier.

stirrups. On fig. 43 depicts stirrups that are currently widely used in the passage of steep and overhanging rocky areas. This stirrup is a short rope ladder made of nylon cord with a diameter of 5 mm with duralumin rungs.

Ropes. All currently used rope is made of nylon only. It should be noted that foreign climbers use a rope of a smaller diameter than is customary in our country. The diameter of the main rope used for insurance does not exceed 8.5 mm (we use a rope of at least 12 mm). The cord is 5 mm in diameter. This lightening of the rope is not without foundation. When falling on rocky areas with a steepness of less than 60-70 °, as well as on steep snow and ice slopes, there is never a dynamic force that can break even an 8 mm rope.

On sheer walls, where free fall is possible, a double insurance system is used (see fig. I). At the same time, it is believed that a badly hammered hook will fly out sooner (and it is often not possible to hammer it reliably) than the rope will break. Therefore, double insurance is used. Such a system has fully justified itself in practice.

Rice. 43. Using a stirrup as an artificial support

Tents. The design, size and material of the tents depend on the nature of the planned route. For wall ascents, the Zdarsky tent is used (we call it a bag tent). This is quite natural, since, as a rule, it is impossible to set up an ordinary tent on such routes. Zdarsky's tent should be windproof and have a minimum weight. Usually the material is nylon, which is characterized by high strength with low weight. Impregnation with various compounds (for example, mystolene) makes the material waterproof. The weight of Zdarsky's tent for two people does not exceed 400-600 g. The strength of a tent for high-altitude ascents should be much higher, since it has to withstand hurricane-force winds. Windproof fabric is very important and the design of the tent, which would provide maximum heat retention. On fig. 44 shows several types of tents used in high-altitude expeditions.

The previous experience of numerous expeditions to Everest and other eight-thousanders was fully taken into account by British climbers when choosing the type of tents for the expedition in 1953. The most suitable for high-altitude camps was the usual Himalayan tent of the “Mid” type, similar in shape to our “pamirka”, but somewhat larger . It is placed on a special frame made of duralumin pipes. The entrance to the tent is made in the form of a cylindrical sleeve sewn into the end wall of the tent. This allows, by bandaging the sleeve, tightly close the tent and prevent the penetration of fine snow dust into it. The entrance is made from two sides, so that by putting the tents close to each other, you can move from one to another. To facilitate entry into the tent, the British edged the fabric sleeve with a ring of piano wire. In all upper camps (over 6000 m) additional inner walls are arranged in tents. These walls weigh a little, but their presence increases the temperature in the tents by 4 °. The total weight of a double tent of the "Mid" type is 6.8 kg. Many expeditions used lighter tents. So, for example, in the 1953 expedition to Nanga Parbat, assault double tents weighing only 900 g were used. In 1953, the British also took with them several lightweight tents weighing 3-3.5 kg for the upper camps. However, the desire for comfort has led to the fact that lighter, but tighter and colder tents have not been used.

Rice. 44. Various types of tents.

The second type of tents used in high-altitude expeditions is a multi-seat pyramidal tent, which serves as a kind of wardroom in base camps. In such tents, they usually eat, arrange meetings, and, if necessary, place a sick person. In the 1953 expedition to Everest, there were two types of such tents: five-seater (one of which was on the southern saddle) and twelve-seater. The latter were built according to the type of army arctic tents and weighed 37 kg.

Most attention was paid to the choice of material for tents. Research organizations of the military department took a great part in this. After numerous trials, a fabric with a cotton warp and nylon weft was selected. Weighing only 160 g/m2, it was highly durable. Blowing the samples in a wind tunnel showed the absolute windproofness of the fabric at an air flow speed of up to 160 km/h. Impregnation of the fabric with "Mistolene" made it waterproof.

More or less similar tents were used in most of the Himalayan expeditions. It should be noted the general trend towards maximum comfort in the base camps. So, for example, during the expedition to K-2, the Italians slept in the base camp on folding beds, and the floor in the eight-seat tents was replaced with a carpet. The tents were illuminated with electricity from a special engine.

Sleeping bag. A sleeping bag is of great importance when climbing. In the Alps, sleeping bags are usually not used in summer conditions and are used only in winter. Sleeping bags are made only down with a nylon top, and for normal alpine conditions, the weight of the sleeping bag is extremely small (600-1000 g).

For high-altitude ascents, much warmer bags are needed. For the British expedition in 1953, bags were made in Canada and New Zealand. Each bag consisted of two separate parts - inner and outer, made of nylon fabric and eider down. The total weight of the sleeping bag was approximately 4 kg. A sleeping bag of this design retained heat well at a temperature of -25 -30 °. Approximately the same design bags were used in other high-altitude expeditions. German down bags with silk tops and zippers used on Nanga Parbat weighed about 3 kg. On K-2, sleeping bags weighed 3.4 kg. On Cho Oyu - 3.2 kg.

Inflatable mattress. An important detail of bivouac equipment is an inflatable mattress, which, unfortunately, is not used at all in our practice. It is indispensable for bivouacs set up on snow or ice, as it prevents the penetration of cold from below. An inflatable mattress is absolutely necessary for high-altitude ascents. The inflatable mattress is formed by a series of tubes of rubberized fabric, laid close to each other. Particularly convenient are bunk mattresses, in which the tubes of the upper layer fit into the recesses between the tubes of the lower layer. Each tube is inflated separately with light bellows.

Backpack. There are many different types of backpacks available. Most of them belong to the so-called easel backpacks. A light machine (frame) made of thin-walled steel or duralumin tubes more evenly distributes the load on the climber's body and greatly facilitates the carrying of the load. However, on difficult wall climbs, where you often have to pull the backpack on a rope, the easel-type backpack is of little use. In this case, ordinary small backpacks are used, completely smooth, without external pockets or flaps.

Glasses. Preserved glasses are usually made of unbreakable and non-tarnishing organic glass with a protective color. The duralumin frame has an oval shape.

Lightweight pocket altimeters are widely used, especially useful in high-altitude expeditions.

In some cases, special equipment is of great importance, which is not used during ordinary ascents. So, when climbing K-2, the cable car played a big role in lifting loads. In 1953, on the Khumbu icefall, the British used special light duralumin ladders to overcome huge cracks, made up of separate interconnected sections of 1.8 m in length. The maximum length of the overlapped span was 7 m. Although the deflection of the stairs in the middle was awesome, the stairs could withstand the weight of three people.

OXYGEN EQUIPMENT

For a long time, there was a fierce discussion in foreign climbing circles: “Is it permissible from a sports and ethical point of view to use oxygen when climbing to the top? Is there some analogy here, say, with landing on the top of a mountain on a helicopter?

In addition, many believed that a person was able to reach the summit of Everest without the help of oxygen, and cited as evidence the examples of Norton, Sommervell and other climbers who reached a significant height without oxygen (up to 8500 m), or Odel, who spent several days at an altitude of more than 8000 m. However, at present, on the basis of extensive physiological studies carried out in various Himalayan expeditions, it can be considered established that no acclimatization can save the human body from gradual exhaustion and weakening when staying at altitudes of more than 7000 m. at this height they fall more and more, and by the time of the final assault the climber is already so weakened that it is impossible for him to overcome the last section.

The only correct solution is the use of oxygen, not only during movement, but also during sleep. As we said earlier, oxygen was first used on Everest by Finch and Bruce in 1922. The weak effect that the use of oxygen gave at that time should be explained primarily by the imperfection of the oxygen equipment. Apparatus (especially cylinders) should have a minimum weight per unit of capacity, regardless of altitude, low temperature, etc. The apparatus should function smoothly, be easy to handle and not create an unpleasant sensation of suffocation when inhaled.

The importance that the British attached to oxygen equipment is evidenced by the fact that during the preparation of the expedition a special body was created to control the production and testing of oxygen equipment. The British managed to create oxygen equipment, which turned out to be much better than all previous models and played a decisive role in the victory over Everest.

It should be noted that in 1953 oxygen was used for the first time while sleeping on a bivouac. Thus, the weakening of the organism at high altitude, which was mentioned above, was prevented. Experience has shown that climbers who used "night" oxygen slept much better, had a good rest during the night and felt in good shape in the morning.

Rice. 45. Open system oxygen equipment

All used oxygen apparatuses can be divided into two main types:

In the apparatus with open circulation (Fig. 45), the climber inhales air enriched with oxygen and exhales it into the surrounding atmosphere. Oxygen is contained in a cylinder at a pressure of 230 atm. From there, through a pressure reducing valve, it is supplied under a nominal pressure of 3 atm. and enters the manifold with two outlet pipes through a flexible hose. The use of various collectors with two calibrated holes in each allows you to adjust the feed rate. The climber can use oxygen at 2 speeds; 2.5; 3; 4; 5 and 6 liters per minute. The economizer allows oxygen to pass through only when inhaling, which eliminates the useless leakage of gas when exhaling. At the beginning of inhalation, a small vacuum is formed in the mask, under the influence of which the economizer distribution valve opens and oxygen fills the mask.

Rice. 46. ​​Closed system oxygen equipment

A complete set of equipment (without cylinders) weighed about 3 kg. The weight of each light alloy cylinder, with a capacity of 800 liters of oxygen, was approximately 5 kg.

In a closed circulation system (Fig. 46), no outside air enters the apparatus. The climber inhales the high oxygen mixture directly from the breathing chamber. Exhalation occurs through a cartridge with soda lime, which absorbs carbon dioxide and directs the oxygen used during breathing back into the breathing chamber. The oxygen absorbed by the climber is replenished from the cylinder through the pressure reducing valve. To facilitate the breathing process, special attention should be paid to reducing hydraulic losses in the pipeline. Tests carried out in 1953 with English devices of this type showed that the required overpressure during exhalation did not exceed 22 mm of water column, and during inspiration - 8 mm.

The advantages and disadvantages of this or that system of equipment have been the subject of lively discussions more than once.

The device of the closed type has a significantly higher productivity (in other words, with the same weight, it will provide oxygen for a longer time). However, it is less reliable than an open type apparatus. In cold weather, the heat generated in closed-type apparatuses is a positive factor. It is also a disadvantage in bright sun and light wind.

The following table (p. 199) borrowed from D. Hunt's book "Climbing Everest" can give some idea about the physiological effect of oxygen supply and at the same time about the comparative characteristics of both mentioned systems of oxygen equipment. This table shows data on the ascent rate of different groups in the same area from the southern saddle to the Swiss camp on the southeastern ridge of Everest, that is, from about 7900 to 8350 m.

The table clearly shows that the use of oxygen leads to a sharp increase in the speed of movement and that the closed type of oxygen equipment is more efficient than open.

It should be noted, however, that the prototype of the closed-type apparatus, first used by the 1953 expedition to Everest, apparently still had significant drawbacks. In subsequent expeditions, open-type apparatuses were used, although the 1955 expedition to Kanchenjunga was led by Evans, a member of the 1st assault team on Everest, who then went with a closed apparatus.

For oxygen supply during sleep, the most suitable apparatus is an open type. The oxygen coming from the cylinder is divided equally into two masks in the tee, so that two sleeping people use one cylinder when the supply is reduced to 2 liters per minute.

Table of the influence of oxygen supply on the rate of ascent

RADIO COMMUNICATION

Very little has been written about radio communications in mountaineering in foreign literature. Very brief information is reported only in D. Hunt's book Climbing Everest. In the Alps, no connection is used during ascents. This is primarily due to the fact that there are no auxiliary or observation groups with the main group of climbers and, therefore, there is no one to keep in touch with. In high-altitude expeditions, radio equipment, as a rule, is included in the nomenclature of equipment that the expedition takes with them. However, it is far from being fully used, and sometimes not even used at all, as was the case when climbing Annapurna.

Small portable ultra-shortwave radios were used with success on a number of expeditions to communicate between intermediate camps. As is known, such stations operate reliably at a distance of up to 10-15 km, provided there is a direct line of sight between the talking points. It should be noted that the higher the camp, the less willingly they raise the radio into it (despite the fact that its weight with food is no more than 3-4 kg), and as a result, in the assault camp, as a rule, there is no radio communication, not to mention about assault teams that have never taken a walkie-talkie to the top.

Radio communication with the outside world is also carried out. However, in most cases this communication is one-way, since the expedition has only a receiver that serves to receive the much-needed daily weather forecast. Motivating this circumstance, D. Hunt writes that the presence of a transmitter "could not in the least contribute to the success of the expedition and, moreover, would require an additional inclusion of a radio operator in the expedition."

Insufficient attention to radio communication, and primarily to ensuring regular communication between the camps and the assault group, is a significant shortcoming in the organization of foreign high-altitude expeditions.

CLOTHES AND SHOES

The practice of all high-altitude expeditions shows that special attention should be paid to protecting the climber's body from low temperatures.

Storm suits - trousers and a jacket with a hood are usually made of nylon. On the 1953 British expedition, the storm suits used the same fabric as the tent, with a nylon lining. The total weight of the costume is 2.6 kg. Down suits made of eiderdown and nylon fabric were worn under the storm suit. This was followed by a thick sweater, two thinner sweaters, warm woolen underwear with a fleece. This is how, with minor deviations, the clothes of a climber in the high-altitude camp of any Himalayan expedition looked like.

No less difficult is the problem of protecting hands from the cold. Usually climbers at altitudes over 7000 m put on two or three pairs of mittens - wool, down, nylon (windproof). Silk gloves are put on directly on the fingers, allowing you to remove the mittens for a short time in order to do some work (tying a cat, taking pictures, etc.).

As for the clothing used when climbing the Alps, it differs little from the clothing used by Soviet climbers, except that Western European climbers do not wear storm trousers. Tight gabardine trousers and a nylon shirt are commonly used. A hooded jacket is worn over the top.

During winter ascents, almost as much warm clothing is taken as during high-altitude ascents, but some of it is carried in a backpack and is used only at a bivouac, since it is obviously impossible to climb a steep wall route in a down suit and a few sweaters.

Most of all, you should protect your feet from the cold. Repeated cases of frostbite, which took place in high-altitude expeditions and winter ascents, showed the need to create special high-altitude insulated shoes.

For ordinary alpine ascents made in summer conditions, leather boots (Fig. 47) with a profiled rubber sole (Vibram type) are currently used. Such a sole successfully replaces heavy binding with tricones, holds well on rocks, snow and slides only on steep ice slopes. On particularly difficult rock routes, special rock shoes with rope soles are used. What sad consequences can lead to the use of ordinary climbing shoes for high-altitude ascents, is evident from the history of climbing Annapurna (see chapter II).

The strength of high-altitude boots is not of great importance, since their wear time is very short, but they must be rigid enough to be able to attach crampons to them or knock out steps in the firn with the toe of the boot. Weight also plays a big role, since, according to the research of the English physiologist G. Puff, who took part in the 1953 expedition, 1 kg of weight on the legs causes the same fatigue as 5 kg on the shoulders.

Boots should be much warmer than usual, since the body, weakened by oxygen starvation at high altitude, is especially prone to frostbite. It is very important that the insulating layer remains dry, otherwise the boots will freeze at night and in the morning it will be impossible to put them on without warming up on the stove. In addition, damp insulation loses its effectiveness.

When climbing K-2, at altitudes up to 7000 m, ordinary climbing boots with a fur lining between two layers of leather were used. In the higher camps fur boots made of reindeer skins with soles made of profiled rubber were worn.

Climbers on Nanga Parbat in 1953 used, up to the very top, leather boots with felt lining. However, the size of these boots was such that, in addition to woolen socks, climbers wore two pairs of felt socks.

Rice. 47. Climbing boots with profiled rubber soles (Vibram type)

On the 1953 expedition to Everest, two types of footwear were used. Up to the upper base camp (6470 m), lightweight boots with fur lining and felt insoles were worn, weighing only 1.7 kg. Above, another type of boot was used, based on the principle of a vapor barrier: the insulation, which must remain dry, was enclosed between two layers of leather, which did not allow moisture to pass from the melting snow on the outside and from perspiration from the inside. As insulation between the two layers of skin, a layer of a special very light insulating material "Tropal" with a thickness of more than 20 mm was laid. A pair of such shoes weighed less than 2 kg.

KITCHENS

All physiologists who have conducted research at high altitudes agree that at high altitudes the body's need for fluid increases dramatically. This is due, first of all, to a large loss of water during respiration, both due to the exceptional dryness of the air and due to increased pulmonary ventilation. At lower altitudes, especially in closed glacial troughs and snow cirques, when there is no wind, the loss of moisture from the body in the form of sweat during the hot part of the day can also be very significant, since insolation is extremely strong. Let us point out as an example that in May 1952 on Cho-Oyu, at an altitude of 5800 m, a temperature of +69°C was recorded in the sun.

Studies on Cho Oyu by the English physiologist Paf led to the conclusion that the daily rate of fluid required at high altitudes reaches 4-5 liters per day per person. Of course, drinking is necessary during any ascent, even if it is of the Alpine type, lasting 1-2 days. During high-altitude ascents, a lack of water leads to a rapid and sharp weakening of the body, while when climbing a complex alpine wall, it can cause discomfort, but is unlikely to have a decisive effect on the climber's performance.

Considering that all the water required for high-altitude ascents is obtained by melting snow, it will become clear how important it is to create light, trouble-free and high-performance heating devices.

For many years in the Alps have been used on most ascents of the Meta cuisine on a solid start. These kitchens have certain advantages: light weight, silent burning and safety, however, in terms of their performance, they lag far behind various types of gasoline-powered stoves, the weight of which has recently been significantly reduced, and the reliability and safety of operation have been dramatically increased.

In preparation for the 1953 expedition to Everest, the British paid great attention to the improvement of heating devices. The experience of Soviet high-altitude ascents showed the satisfactory operation of stoves at altitudes up to 7000 m. However, the British found that above 4500 m the usual stove burner was unreliable, and in accordance with this, a special type of high-altitude self-cleaning burner was designed. The most time-consuming and unpleasant operation - cleaning the primer, which causes a lot of trouble at altitude, was excluded. The burner was cleaned with a simple turn of the handle. In addition, in order to reduce the large convective heat losses characteristic of conventional heating appliances, a special casing was developed that directs heat to the bottom and side walls of the pan. The heating performance has increased dramatically. Finally, complete combustion was ensured, that is, the absence of toxic carbon monoxide in the combustion products. Tests carried out in a pressure chamber showed that such a "high-altitude" Primus works flawlessly at an altitude of 12,000 m.

For alpine ascents, many companies produce various types of stoves, extremely light and compact, working reliably in the rain or in the wind (the latter is very important, since it is often impossible to set up a tent on a bivouac).

The second type of heating appliances, which are beginning to become more common, are gas kitchens, most often working on butane. Compressed to 150-200 atm. butane is carried in cylinders. The advantage of gas kitchens is ease of operation. Indeed, to kindle, it is enough to open the tap and bring a match. In addition, gas kitchens can be successfully used for lighting, which has its value for evening work in a common tent at the base camp. In terms of their performance, per unit weight, gas kitchens are somewhat inferior to stoves, since a significant "dead" weight falls on gas cylinders. In general, they are good heating equipment, which has recently been increasingly used in high-altitude expeditions.

NUTRITION

It is necessary to dwell briefly on some features of the problem of nutrition during ascents.

The range of products used in the West has much in common with the diet of Soviet climbers. And this is natural, since the basic fundamental requirements for food products are the same, namely: high calorie content, easy digestibility, good taste and minimum weight.

Various concentrates are much more widespread than ours in the West: high-quality meat and chicken bouillon cubes, pemmican, soup concentrates, etc. “Self-heating” canned food is often used, under the bottom of which there are chemical reagents that enter under the action of water or when displacement with each other in an exothermic reaction. Various compound patent nutritious products with a high calorie content, prepared from condensed milk, egg powder, sugar, chocolate and other products, are widely used, for example, the famous “ovomaltin”, an invariable companion of any climber, etc.

With difficult wall climbs, which usually last no more than one or two days, the issue of nutrition does not play a primary role. It is believed that the day can be “starved”, working at the expense of the stock accumulated in previous days. As a rule, climbers take minimal food with them to the wall, which in terms of its calorie content does not compensate for the huge energy expenditure during the ascent (usually no more than 500-600 g per person per day in weight). Most often in this case, bacon or smoked sausage, dried fruits, chocolate, sugar, canned food - sardines, various compotes are used. If it is known that there is snow on the route, but there will be no water, a primus stove is taken, in which case cocoa or soup is brewed at the bivouac. Sweets, dried fruits and condensed milk or cream (in tubes) are applied on the go.

Of much greater importance are nutrition issues for high-altitude expeditions. Along with equipment, food is one of the main factors determining the success of an expedition. The decisive word here belongs to physiologists who have carried out careful observations at high altitudes above the human body. To the above general requirements for high-altitude nutrition, there are additional specific requirements associated with the behavior of a climber at high altitudes. Depending on the individual character traits, habits, state of health, and most importantly, on the degree of acclimatization of a team member, he will treat food differently.

At high altitude climbers become "capricious". Often the appetite disappears or you want something special, which, as a rule, is just not there at the moment. Norton on Everest in 1924 really wanted strawberry jam and fried eggs, Hillary on Cho Oyu dreamed of pineapples, etc. Of course, it is impossible to fully satisfy the diverse tastes of all climbers, especially since taste at altitude is subject to drastic changes, however this should be sought in order to ensure the best possible appetite for all participants in the ascent. The experience of recent high-altitude expeditions has shown that the less the diet differs from the usual, the better it is absorbed, even at high altitude.

Climbers are much more willing to use fresh vegetables, fruits, fresh meat, bread than canned food, concentrates, lard, chocolate. However, here the question of weight comes into play: it is extremely irrational to carry up the water contained in the listed fresh products. As always, the solution must be a compromise. Products are used high-calorie, concentrated, but with a varied assortment, if possible, taking into account individual taste needs. Vitamins are required in various combinations. Very good fruit juices. In base camps, fresh food should be consumed as much as possible (the British in 1953 ate potatoes and fresh lamb in the upper base camp at an altitude of 6470 m).

Of great importance for high-altitude expeditions is the correct, expedient packaging of food. In the first Himalayan expeditions, a system was adopted in which products were brought in specialized packaging, according to the type of product, for example, bags of rice, boxes of canned meat, boxes of condensed milk, etc. The disadvantages of such a system associated with multiple repacking are obvious. Recently, packaging has been done in advance, according to separate “rations”, intended for a certain number of people, for a certain period and for a certain stage of ascent (approaches, leaving camps, assault). So, for example, there can be "assault" rations for two person-days or rations for approaches per person for a week (with a different menu for each day), etc. Packaging is usually done under vacuum using sealed plastic boxes or bags, which ensures good preservation of products. The shape, dimensions and weight of individual boxes are designed to be carried by one porter in the highlands.

The described bagging and packing system has been successfully used in most recent high-altitude expeditions.

Without oxygen, a person cannot live even 10 minutes. This important gas for the body is involved in all internal processes, nourishes the brain cells and increases their endurance. The easiest and most convenient way to saturate yourself with O2 is to use an oxygen tank. A small container with an air-oxygen mixture can be taken with you to work, walking, training.

Oxygen in cylinders is used in medicine, cosmetology and sports. Daily saturation of the body with useful gas stimulates vital resources and helps to restore strength after physical or mental stress. Oxygen for breathing acts quickly and effectively:

• increased efficiency, stress resistance;
• oxygen starvation and accompanying symptoms (nausea, dizziness, lethargy) disappear;
• the negative impact of exhaust gases is neutralized;
• metabolism is stimulated;
• improves well-being during the heat;
• breathing is restored after active sports;
• fatigue, insomnia.

Types of oxygen bottles

You can buy an oxygen cartridge for therapeutic and preventive procedures. In the catalog of the Oxy2 online store, you can easily find the right option in terms of volume and equipment. We offer the following types of containers:

• With sprayer. Used for breathing or preparing oxygen cocktails.
• With dispenser . Such an oxygen cartridge allows you to accurately calculate the amount of inhaled gas.
• Oxygen cylinder with mask.The mask prevents oxygen from mixing with other gases, so a pure mixture enters the body during breathing.
• Without a mask. Replacement option: remove the mask from the used can and use it further.

How to use an oxygen tank?

The application algorithm is simple:

1. Remove the protective film and cap.

2. Remove the valve, attach the mask. Install the valve back.

3. To supply oxygen, press the valve with one or two fingers.

4. After exhaling, bring the mask to your mouth and take a deep breath.

To prepare an oxygen cocktail, you will need a spray bottle and a mixer.

How to choose an oxygen cylinder?

When choosing oxygen in canisters, pay attention to 3 main parameters:

• Volume. Compact containers fit seamlessly into your bag and can "travel" with you all day. Volumetric cylinders are better suited for home use.
• Compound. The percentage of oxygen in different cartridges is different. The higher the indicator, the more pure gas enters the body.
• Type. With a mask, it is more convenient to breathe and dose oxygen. Choose spray bottles for making cocktails.

Benefits of buying at Oxy2:

• Products from trusted manufacturers (Tervis, Kotex, Basic Element, etc.) with availability in stock.
• Nice prices, discounts and regular promotions. It is possible to buy in installments for 6 months.
• Delivery throughout Russia and self-delivery of goods from the point of issue in Moscow and St. Petersburg.