Pastukhov Rocks: description. Elbrus. Pastukhov Rocks, rescue operation, I won't go anywhere Some information about Andrey Pastukhov
Most climbs to Elbrus are made from the south side through Priyut 11.
This is the easiest and safest way to climb to the top.
Shelter 11 can be reached in several ways.
The most popular - using the cable car from the village. Azau, three lines of the cable car have been built. The first stage is a pendulum cable car (cabins) from Azau (2350 meters above sea level) to Stary Krugozor station (2950 meters above sea level). The second stage of the pendulum cable car Stary Krugozor - Mir (3450 meters above sea level). The third stage of the World - Gara-Bashi or Barrels (3850 meters above sea level), is a chairlift. From Bochek to Priyut 11, you can drive a snowcat, or climb on foot, it will take about an hour.
In the last article, another climbing route was described from the village of Terskol to Shelter 11 through the Terskol gorge, 105 pickets and the Ice Base.
One of the main conditions for a successful ascent of Elbrus is the presence of sufficient acclimatization. If you did not have time to get it before the ascent to Shelter 11, then it makes sense to set up a camp in the Shelter 11 area (on the nearest rocks) and make several acclimatization hikes towards the top.
It is believed that the ascent to the top of Elbrus from Shelter 11 and the descent takes from 7 to 12 hours.
A little history of climbing Elbrus
The first wooden building of the shelter was built in 1932, and in 1938 a three-story building was erected in its place, which stood for 60 years. "Shelter" was built in one season with the help of the local population, who raised building materials to the construction site, along the road from the village of Terskol. At the construction site, they paid for the lifting of each kilogram. On the first floor of the "Shelter" there were climbers, on the second - instructors and rescuers, on the third - scientists. On September 28, 1942, a battle took place near the hotel between the NKVD special unit and the German mountain rangers. The battle ended with the defeat of the NKVD forces. On the third floor, a museum was created by the efforts of enthusiasts. On August 16, 1998, the almost ownerless Shelter 11 burned down due to violations of fire safety rules, presumably by a tourist from the Czech Republic and domestic guides.
Currently, the old burned-out building is completely dismantled, and a new, capital building is being erected in its place.
Shelter 11 is located at an altitude of 4130 meters.
From Shelter 11, the route goes up between two rocky ridges formed by a lava flow. The trail goes along a closed glacier, there are no cracks, you can walk without ropes, the slope is about 20°. Tracks from snowcats are clearly visible, it is difficult to stray from the path. In the summer, after lunch, the snow melts and turns into porridge, streams flow. From the end of the rocky ridges, you need to keep the direction to the Pastukhov rocks (4600-4700 meters above sea level).
The path along the left border of the rocks. The angle of elevation increases and it is more convenient to go not directly, but in small zigzags.
Above the rocks begins the steepest section (4700 - 5000m) "mirror", in summer it is covered with hard firn, at other times it can be solid ice. It will take approximately one hour to cross this section.
From a height of about 5000m, the trail goes sharply to the left, this is the beginning of the so-called. Oblique shelves. The slope in this section becomes smaller, the path around the eastern peak leads to the saddle of Elbrus. On the "oblique shelf" it will take an hour - one and a half.
On the saddle you can see the ruins of an old shelter - boards covered with snow, and above a new shelter where you can hide if the weather is bad. Altitude 5300m.
From the saddle the path to the western peak goes to the left and steeply upwards.
From the ascent you can clearly see the saddle and the ascent path to the eastern peak of Elbrus.
At an altitude of about 5500 m, the path passes through a gap in the rocky ridge descending from the top. The path goes around the ridge on the left and comes out on an almost flat area - the summit plateau, from here you can already see the top.
Mount Elbrus (Caucasus, Russia) - detailed description, location, reviews, photo and video.
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Ever since school age, each of us remembers the majestic two-headed Elbrus, if not from geography textbooks, then from literature textbooks. After all, the great Lermontov, having got to the Caucasus involuntarily, was truly fascinated by him, fell in love with him with all his heart and sang him not only in verse, but also in colors. His paintings depicting Elbrus, Beshtau, gorges and mountain ranges of the Caucasus perfectly convey the beauty and special, harsh, ancient and breathtaking poetics of these places.
Elbrus occupies a special place in the system of the Greater Caucasus. This is the highest mountain range of the Lateral Range of the Caucasus Mountains. Geologists have determined that Elbrus is the cone of an extinct volcano. Its western peak reaches a height of 5642 m, and the eastern one - 5621 m, they are separated by a deep saddle, which is also a five-thousander, its height is 5325 m.
Since Elbrus is very high, it is always covered with a cap of firn and ice, from which 54 glaciers descend in different directions, the largest of which are Bolshoy Azau, Irik and Terskol.
Climbing Elbrus
Naturally, even in those days, when the mountains were the point of application of the sports interests of only climbers, and by no means skiers and snowboarders, attempts were made to conquer Elbrus. In 1829, the Kabardian K. Khashirov, the guide of the Russian scientific expedition, was the first to reach the eastern peak, and the western peak was reached in 1874 by English athletes led by F. Grove and the Kabardian guide A. Sottaev, a participant, by the way, of the first ascent of the Russian expedition.
During the years of Soviet power, ascents in the Elbrus region became very popular, they turned into mass "alpiniades", in the largest of which in 1967 no less than 2400 climbers participated.
At an altitude of 4600-4700 m there are the cliffs of Pastukhov, a Russian military topographer, who was the first to conquer both - East and West - the peaks of Elbrus. Above these rocks in winter there is an ice field. From a height of 5000 m, the “oblique ledge” begins, as climbers call it, a rather gently sloping plane rising upward. Traditionally, the route of climbing any of the peaks of Elbrus passes through its saddle. From there, it is about 300 m to both peaks.
On the northern side of the mountain range, the infrastructure is still poorly developed, there are only a few huts for climbers, which are used by both tourists and employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. As a rule, ascents are made from the northern side to the Eastern peak, the route passes through the Lenz rocks (from 4600 to 5200 m).
During the years of Soviet power, ascents in the Elbrus region became very popular, they turned into mass "alpiniades", the largest of which in 1967 involved 2400 climbers.
Skiing
In our country, the Elbrus region has always been and remains one of the most popular centers for skiing and tourism. The most visited slope of the Elbrus region is Mount Cheget, which is well equipped with both cable-chair and cable-pendulum lifts. The tracks here are of varying degrees of difficulty, anyone, from aces to beginners, will find a track on Cheget according to their capabilities. Cheget also has a rather attractive choice of entertainment for tourists. There are cafes and restaurants on the slope, there are equipment rental shops. From the top of the mountain, a wonderful view of the two-headed Elbrus opens up.
Elbrus clones
Camp sites
As for Elbrus itself, for all its severity and external impregnability, which does not seem to imply the presence of a person, there is also a certain tourist infrastructure here. It is concentrated mainly on the southern slopes of the mountain range, where there is a pendulum-chairlift, the height of which is 3750 m. Here you will be met by the Bochki shelter, which has more than ten six-seater insulated residential trailers and a kitchen. This place serves as a launching pad for modern athletes climbing Elbrus. There is a new, more modern, shelter "Liprus", opened in 2013. It accommodates 48 people and is located at an altitude of 3912 m. Currently, a new building has been built on the basis of the boiler room of the former hotel. In addition, the shelter has several 12-seat trailers and a kitchen. In the evenings, the work of a diesel generator is organized with the supply of electricity to the trailers.
The saddle of Elbrus, as a starting point for all climbers, no matter which peak they strive to reach, has long needed its own shelter, because the higher the climbers climb, the more difficult it is for them every centimeter of the way. Therefore, a shelter at an altitude of 5300 m is really necessary. Since 2007, work has been underway on its construction. The shelter will be a hemisphere with a diameter of 6.7 m, installed on the foundation. By 2009, the structures of the dome were made, and construction work began. However, it was not possible to open the shelter on the planned date - 2010, and work is currently ongoing.
How to get there: by plane to Kislovodsk, Nalchik or Cherkessk, then by bus, taxi or rented car.
Day
Moscow Terskol
55.755826,37.6173
43.2571143,42.5139979
Moscow - Terskol
Hotel: Wolfram
distance: 1728.9 km
travel time: 19 hours 47 minutes
gasoline cost: 7086.00
The road from Moscow to Terskol takes about 20 hours, including a stop for 1 hour in Rostov, to refuel the car and people (12,000 diesel was burned on the way back and forth). Almost all 1700 km are rolled with excellent coverage, even for the most demanding taste, so the speed can be kept decent enough. The town itself is full of hotels, which are mostly empty in late August - early September, and many are even closed, because the Elbrus region is a ski resort, and at the end of summer there is still no snow on the ski slopes and only climbers live in hotels, and there are not so many of them. a lot of. Good, brand new hotels were occupied, and we settled in the Wolfram Hotel, this establishment will never get stars, but the friendly staff, normal (and even good by the standards of the Soviet canteen) food and practically free (500 rubles per person) are a little "pulled out" impression.
Terskol Cheget
43.1947222,42.515
Terskol - Cheget
Hotel: Wolfram
in order to climb Elbrus painlessly, you need to acclimatize to the height, so today it was decided to conquer Cheget (3770 m). I must say that the town itself is located at an altitude of about 2000m, so the "conquest" of Cheget is a fairly easy walk for about half a day. And yet, unfortunately, many "conquerors" of Cheget do not know that the peak they climb, where the path leads, where everyone sighs with relief and turns down, is not Cheget, it is 300 m lower than the real peak, which is quite a lot in the mountains, and without special equipment, I'm afraid you can't take it, and we were no exception and went downstairs in our sneakers. In the photo, the peak is visible on the left, and if a public place in August has only specks of snow, the real Cheget is heavily covered with it, here you have a 300 m difference. A cable car goes to Cheget, there is a restaurant at the last station, but the cable car is not suitable for acclimatization purposes. It's cool and windy at the top, so it's best to take a fleece and a windbreaker, as well as food and drinks for half a day.
Cheget Waterfall girlish braids
43.2611844,42.492734
Cheget - Waterfall girl's braids
Hotel: Wolfram
Today we continue acclimatization and take a longer route in order to be on top longer. The goal is the Waterfall of the maiden braids, the Observatory (3100m) and the Ice Camp (3800m). The walk is not difficult, there is a dirt road everywhere, which becomes less well-traveled only above the observatory. From the ice camp, where there is a military unit of contract soldiers who seem to be collecting the remains of those who died during the Great Patriotic War from the slopes of Elbrus, but at the same time they are equipped with ammunition, machine guns and larger weapons, and so from the Ice Camp there is an excellent view of the Shelter 11 and Barrels.
Waterfall girlish braids Shelter-11
43.335343,42.4558422
Waterfall girlish braids - Shelter-11
hotel: Barrels
distance: 8.7 km
travel time: 0 h. 51 min.
gasoline cost: 35.56
In the morning we leave Wolfram and go to Alpindustria (although now the store is called something else, which does not change its content at all), we rent boots and windproof pants, sticks and masks, a down jacket and windbreakers, gloves and mittens, we buy fleece - pants and a sweatshirt, and a balaclava, because they don't rent them. all pleasure for 10 000 r. The service is top notch, it’s a pity that I don’t even remember what the name of the shop, which used to be Alpukha, is now called. We throw everything superfluous into the car - a car for paid parking - a taxi (150 r, however!) And go! we call in the Ministry of Emergency Situations, make a mark, get an informative leaflet about how not to behave on a slope, and to the cable car. The cable car of the first stage is a fairy tale, brand new comfortable trailers with automatic doors gently and silently lift us to the transfer station, where we transfer to the second cable car. This one is obviously Soviet-era, the open seats are covered with hundreds of coats of paint and look haggard but go. We are on Barrels, here we simply find a free trailer for settlement, the height of our trailer is 3800m, accommodation is like in Wolfram, 500 r from the nose. Amenities: light for 1 hour from 10 pm to 11 pm, water from a melt stream, a toilet over the abyss, gas in a cylinder, even bed linen, but we preferred our sleeping bags. After accommodation, a short outing to Shelter 11 (4000m) to check the equipment.
Shelter-11 Pastukhov Rocks
43.2611844,42.492734
Shelter-11 - Pastukhov Rocks
hotel: Barrels
distance: 8.7 km
travel time: 0 h. 51 min.
gasoline cost: 35.56
We continue acclimatization, today we go to the Pastukhov rocks (4600m), the ascent was easy and we decide to storm the summit tomorrow without waiting for the end of acclimatization.
Pastukhov Rocks Elbrus
43.2611844,42.492734
Pastukhov Rocks - Elbrus
Hotel: Wolfram
We went out on the assault at 3 o'clock in the morning, practically did not sleep, almost did not have breakfast, the snowmobile takes us to the Pastukhov rocks, the snowmobile rises, as it turned out, quite slowly and we start from the Pastukhov rocks after 4 in the morning. There are a lot of snowmobiles and it is not a problem to come to an agreement, each person pays 2500 rubles. The weather is excellent, there is practically no wind, we start climbing. Any person with a relatively decent physical fitness can climb to the top in favorable weather (we read that if a person can run 12 km, he will go to Elbrus, we have been running since May, and 12 km was not a problem). You need to go slowly and calmly, keeping your breath, because already at an altitude of 4500m the lack of oxygen is noticeable, on an oblique beam it becomes much easier, despite the fact that the height is added, but a gentler rise facilitates movement, at about this height the sun rises confidently and becomes warmer and somehow more comfortable. Behind the oblique beam there is a saddle (5300m) where you can rest easy, we left backpacks and extra equipment so as not to drag weight to the top. Climbing from the saddle to the top is the most difficult test of the entire route, these last 350 m of altitude are characterized by a rather sharp climb, so that people are already quite tired, and there is even less oxygen, but it warms the thought that now you have definitely climbed, although we came across two people who decided to return before reaching the top. At the steepest place of the ascent to the upper platform, someone hung a rope and everyone is trying to use it, it seemed to us that in good weather, when the wind does not blow you away, it is completely useless, and fussing with it and the line take the last strength, we just walked along and we thought it was the right decision. On the site, after the ascent, almost everyone makes a halt, to the top you still need to cross a small plateau and climb a small hillock. All. The top is conquered, protocol photo, panorama - you can go down. I must say that the descent is, according to sensations, no less of a problem than the ascent. You’re running out of energy, you don’t have time to make halts and rest, because you are at the top at noon, and the cable car closes at 16.00, and you didn’t want to spend the night in the trailer for one more night, and you still need to get ready, pay, etc. in short, we hurried down, as a result, we entered the trailer with a desire to lie down for a long time, however, having realized it after 30 minutes, we were back on our feet and, having handed over the trailer, rushed back to Wolfram, further to the restaurant to celebrate success and sleep - in the morning we leave for Moscow. By the way, many climb to the top using pills, this can be quite avoided if there are a couple of extra days for acclimatization, in our group of 3 people, two took the course and one did not, as a result, he had quite a headache at the top.
The highest not only in the Caucasus, but also in Europe. This is a cone of an extinct volcano with two peaks, the height of which is 5642 meters (western peak) and 5621 meters (eastern peak). Between them at an altitude of 5325 meters there is a deep saddle.
Climbing Elbrus attracts the attention of not only domestic climbers. Climbers from near and far abroad come to test themselves and admire the views that open from the peaks.
Climbing routes
Climbing hazards include cracks in the glaciers covered with snow, strong winds, low temperatures and lack of oxygen when climbing to a height.
You can conquer the summit from the north side. During the ascent, magnificent views of the snow-covered mountain ranges among green meadows open up. There are no lifts, shelters and cafes on the northern slopes, so climbers need to rely only on their own strength.
Climbing Elbrus from the western side is considered the most extreme. Here, too, there are no lifts, snowcats that bring climbers to the desired height, there is no infrastructure. There are many sheer cliffs and glaciers on the route, so only experienced climbers go here. When climbing to the top from the east from the Irik-Chat pass (altitude 3667 m), a beautiful view of the eastern peak opens up. Here, on the glacier, they work out the technique of moving on ice, teach how to work with a rope and how to belay.
Climbing the summit from the south
To climb Elbrus, more than two hundred routes have been laid, designed for both experienced climbers and beginners. Climbing to the top from the southern slopes is popular among beginner climbers. It starts from the Azau base (height 2200 meters). Here is the first acclimatization to mountain conditions. Further, the path leads to the high mountain shelter "Barrels", the Pastukhov rocks, after which the ascent to the top of Elbrus begins.
Experienced climbers can conquer the mountain on their own, and people with no experience organize groups and climb accompanied by a guide. Due to difficult weather conditions on Elbrus, it is better to climb in the summer months and in autumn no later than October.
What are "Pastukhov rocks"
This is a group of rocks located on the southern slope of Elbrus. The stone ridge was named after the Russian climber and military topographer Andrey Pastukhov, who studied the Caucasus Mountains. When climbing to a great height, a person must go through acclimatization and get used to the conditions of lack of oxygen high in the mountains.
According to the established tradition, the Pastukhov rocks, whose height ranges from 4600 to 4800 meters, serve as a place for acclimatization before climbing to the top of Elbrus. Here the group spends the night in tents. People who are not sufficiently prepared to climb to the top can climb to the rocks on a snowcat (special transport for moving on glaciers) and admire the mountain scenery, and then go down on a snowboard or ski.
Some information about Andrey Pastukhov
Pastukhov Andrey was born in 1858 in the Kharkov province. He graduated from a military gymnasium in St. Petersburg, then was sent to the Corps of Military Topographers, and later was assigned to the Caucasian Military District. He made maps of mountain ranges in Dagestan, and in 1889 he conquered the eastern peak of Kazbek from the north side. Before him, no one had made such an ascent.
A year later, a Russian climber climbed the western peak of Elbrus for the first time without guides. In this campaign, he mapped the glaciers and collected a large collection of mountain minerals. During 1890, the topographer made several ascents into the mountains, during which he laid out different routes. Only in 1896 did he make the second ascent to the eastern summit. During this, who accompanied him, spent the night on a rocky ridge, after which the name of Pastukhov's rock was assigned to her.
Classic climbing route
The classic route of climbing Elbrus is 2A. Any physically healthy person with experience in mountain climbing can climb. To complete the route, you will need equipment and warm clothes, because the weather on Elbrus is unpredictable.
After a short acclimatization at the Azau station, the group with all the equipment is raised to a height of 3800 meters to the Bochki shelter. There are insulated trailers designed to stay on the basis of 50 people, as well as 2 kitchens and a dining room. The shelter has electric heating. To adapt to being in the mountains, you need to spend 2-3 nights on the "Barrels".
After that, the climbers move to the high-mountain "Shelter of Eleven" and make a training trip to the Pastukhov Rocks from there. The trail passes through the ice floor covered with snow.
Climbing to the top of Elbrus begins at night. From the shelter to the Pastukhov rocks you need to walk about 2 hours. After 300-400 meters up from the rocks, a straight ascent begins, after which the road turns onto a saddle. After an hour's rest in the saddle, you can climb to any peak.
Equipment for climbing Elbrus
To climb the southern slope you need to have with you:
- woolen or cotton thermal underwear;
- a pair of underwear and warm socks;
- a sleeping bag that can withstand temperatures down to -5°C;
- thermal mask to protect the face from frostbite or protective cream;
- windproof warm jacket with a hood or a windbreaker that can withstand temperatures of -2 ° C;
- alpine boots with hard soles and welts for fastening crampons, as well as removable shoes.
In addition, you will need crampons, an ice ax, a first-aid kit, toiletries, warm gloves, and a headlamp. Be sure to bring a ski cap and sunglasses with UV filters.
Climbing safety
Before climbing, the group must be registered with the search and rescue group of the Russian Emergencies Ministry. When registering, indicate the number of people, the time to go on the route, the control time of return, as well as the data of the leader of the group. During the ascent, you cannot leave the route indicated in the ticket.
Be sure to check the availability of equipment, first aid kit and walkie-talkie or other means of communication. Properly selected ammunition and clothing will make the ascent enjoyable and will not turn it into a battle for survival.
Particular attention should be paid to acclimatization to mountain conditions. You can climb to the top only for 3-4 days after staying on the "Barrels" and a trial trip to the Pastukhov rocks. Elbrus does not forgive irresponsible preparation. Many people may begin oxygen starvation, severe headaches. Some, due to lack of oxygen, fall into an inadequate state, lose their sense of reality. If this happens, you need to go down.
From the products you need to take with you boiled meat, vegetables, dried fruits, nuts. In the shelter, before going on the route, you can cook borscht, scrambled eggs, chicken cutlets, porridge. Chocolate is not recommended because it causes nausea and is bad for the liver.
Descent from the top of Elbrus
Many people come to the resort "Elbrus Azau" to go skiing. On the southern slope there are 7 ski slopes for experienced skiers and beginners. Their total length is 11 km. In fact, the entire descent is one track about 6 km wide, on which there are no signs and dividers, and there are protective nets only in some sections.
On the section of the ski slope there are several stations to which skiers are delivered by ski lifts. The highest point, to which they rise on the lift, is the Gara-bashi station, it is located at an altitude of 3800 meters (slightly higher than the Bochki shelter). Even higher, you can get to the Shelter of Eleven on a snowcat. The section between the "Shelter of Eleven" and "Gara-bashi" can only be mastered by experienced skiers. Some extreme skiers come to the Pastukhov rocks. Skiing in these places is very dangerous, because you can get into a crack or get into an avalanche.
The safety of skiing on the slopes of the Elbrus Azau complex is controlled by the rescue service, especially dangerous places are fenced with a protective net, video cameras are installed on each section of the route. It is better for inexperienced skiers to ride accompanied by an instructor, because wild mountain slopes can be unpredictable.
The next day after moving in at the Maria shelter (4100), closer to dinner we went on an acclimatization hike to the Pastukhov rocks (4600-4800). The body must be accustomed to height, as well as to the slow monotonous movement of the lower limbs, because this cannot be called walking. We walked to the upper border of the Pastukhov rocks for three hours. Walking was easy, but very, very boring. For three hours I spoke in obscene language, restraining myself from frank swearing. In general, the training exit made it clear that there was nothing fun in climbing ... Finally, when we eventually climbed up, sat down, took out the camera and turned around, we did not notice any special changes in the landscape, it was even somehow more comfortable to look at the mountains from the Shelter.
View of Elbrus from the Pastukhov rocks. From here to the eastern peak is only 1500 meters
The main Caucasian ridge to the west of Elbrus. There are very strange mountains...
Gorge Adyl-Su. Five-thousanders of Bezengi rise in the distance.
Right behind the ridge, freedom and democracy begin, there is no bloody gebni and Putin, but there is a cool man chewing his tie. But home is somehow better.
Somehow, no special rocks were noticed, there are only stones, and they don’t smell very good. Although the stream is flowing, it poured water out of it, a lot of garbage, of a special organic origin.
The path from the Mir station to the Pastukhov rocks in the palm of your hand.
Climbers descend. In sequence. Like skiing in a forest in winter.
The cloud hung
Adylsu. Glaciers of Bashkar and Gumachi. To the left of the Koyavganaush pass, I passed it three years ago
Caucasus...
Irikchat Gorge and our first overnight stay - the last forest island on the left bank
The lower part of the Terskol village is visible through the Terskol Gorge. Somewhere among the roofs and EMBS, from the window of the room in which Elbrus is also visible
Mountain junction with the peaks of Chatkara, Irikchat, Kezgen, Mukal - a popular place
Climbers descend the path from the oblique ledge
Oleg walked a little higher than the rocks, and went to the east, towards the Achkeryal lava flow. but he did not go far - the ice here is no longer the same, cracks were felt in it, one cannot walk here alone.
Irikchat pass, Chatkar peak, Subashi pass...
Under blue skies
It's hard to go down too
Couple on a walk
Halt. Why does the stones smell strongly of what, apparently people prefer to shit in the stones than on the glacier.
Sit down, relax and go home. No ringing in the ears, nausea, etc. Just fatigue and slight shortness of breath, he even stopped spitting and spitting.
The cloud is still hanging.
Vadim was the first to descend from the rocks, because he took his beloved with him, and he drove off on her. I forgot the ice rink, and the seat was bad for driving on the melted snow. On the porch of the shelter, Vadim met him, went out to warn that Russians had settled in the next room and there was no need to swear. He no longer cursed loudly, only very quietly, and then, when Vadim fed him delicious porridge, he stopped altogether.
