Beluga whale route description map. Russia. Altai. Climbing Belukha (4506 m.) - Cheaptrip - Carpe Diem - Carpe Viam - LiveJournal. Accommodation conditions for all routes

Climbing Belukha along the “classic route” through the Delaunay pass is not technically difficult. In the climbers' classifier, this route is assigned category 3A. For beginners and novices, trekking to Belukha is quite a serious test. The route has two key sections: the Delone (3400 m) and Belukhinsky (4200 m) passes, which require participants to possess certain technical skills - the ability to belay and self-belay, move along a fixed rope, and move “in two steps.” Don't let the special terms scare you. During transitions and special classes, we will help you acquire the necessary minimum skills for a successful ascent to Belukha. At the same time, the success of the ascent, which lasts several days, largely depends on the weather. You should listen to the opinion of guides regarding weather conditions. To the untrained eye, the signs of approaching multi-day stormy weather are sometimes barely visible (see photo on the right). Climbing Tabyn-Bogdo-Ola(4082 m) does not require serious technical training from participants. Minimum required: moving in ropes, belaying and self-belaying.

Acclimatization in mountainous areas

To climb Belukha (4506 m) you need. The best option for this is trekking to the foot of Belukha through the Karaturek pass (3080 m). Pre-acclimatization is encouraged. For example, periodic trips to the mountains throughout the year and stay at altitudes from 1800 to 4000 meters. For physical training we recommend: running, cross-country skiing, cycling, swimming, long walks (possible with ski poles), yoga. Alpine skiing and snowboarding are good for acclimatization and physical training, but only in combination with aerobic exercise. For example, . In everyday life, avoid using the elevator. Remember, walking up stairs is one of the best ways to prepare for climbing. For technical training, we recommend attending classes rock climbing and ice climbing (sections exist in almost all major cities). There, you will be able to gain a general understanding of belaying and self-belaying, as well as acquire some skills in using personal climbing equipment and techniques for moving through rocky and ice-snow areas. It's great if you have climbing experience. For example, in the Caucasus. However, it should be remembered that each mountainous country has its own characteristics and each peak also has its own individual characteristics. Therefore, climbing Elbrus (5642 m) cannot always be equated with climbing Belukha (4506 m). We warn you against quite common snobbery, which sometimes prevents you from really assessing your own strengths and capabilities. No “hat-shaking”!

Equipment for climbing

We provide you only high-quality equipment from the best domestic and global manufacturers. This certainly increases the level of safety and increases the chances of success! Bivvy equipment: Sleeping bags, Basque MILD -20, 2-person tents, Basque Reach 2, heat-insulating mat, bivouac furniture (tables, chairs), fire set, dishes. Group climbing equipment: gas, gas burners, utensils for gas burners, ropes, drills, hooks. Personal kit:

To climb you only need a backpack, boots and clothes! If you need to purchase such things, we recommend using BASK equipment(clothing) and Boreal (boots) or their equivalents: Mountain climbing boots with a welt for attaching crampons, a down jacket with a hood or a jacket with synthetic filling, a storm jacket and trousers, a warm jacket and trousers, thermal underwear, mittens and socks, a hat, backpack, sunglasses, sunscreen, headlamp, thermos. Light summer clothing: cap, trousers, shorts, T-shirts, sandals.

Security and insurance

We pay great attention to safety. Our guides are true professionals: they have high sports ranks in mountaineering and are experienced mountaineering instructors and methodologists. Participants are insured under the program of the insurance company Ingosstrakh-Barnaul, which provides coverage for medical expenses and expenses in the event of an accident, as well as search and rescue operations, including using helicopters from the Ministry of Emergency Situations. During the ascent, our team is in direct contact with the base camp and the Ministry of Emergency Situations camp on Ak-Kem. Rescuers are always ready to help us. The medical pharmacy meets the necessary requirements for carrying out emergency measures.

Attention! Thoughts and ambitions play an important role when climbing Belukha. This is not just a stupid “morality” or superstition, but your safety. It is during the ascent to Belukha that Stalker’s words always come to mind: “The zone is a very complex system of traps, or something... And they are all deadly... Former traps disappear - new ones appear. Safe places become impassable... This is the Zone. It may even seem that she is capricious, but at every moment she is what we ourselves have made her, with our condition...” We hope that your will, rationality, as well as preliminary physical and technical preparation will allow you to realize your dream!

Nutrition

Food is not only a pleasant pastime, but also a necessity of life, especially in the mountains. A properly selected and varied diet is our distinguishing feature when preparing expeditions. At the base camp and on the trek, the cook prepares food. At the base camp on Lake Akkem there is a tent for the Altai Guide cabin, where at camp tables and chairs you can not only eat, but also in the evenings, by the light of gas burners, discuss the features of the ascent. During ascent, food preparation is structured differently. Each tent (2 participants) is given a set of products, gas, a gas burner, a set of dishes for a gas burner (2 people). After receiving a little instruction, participants prepare their own food. This is dictated by considerations of efficiency, autonomy, convenience and safety.

Good day everyone!
So I visited where I had long dreamed of going, in the very heart of the Altai Mountains, on the highest peak of Siberia - the eastern peak of Mount Belukha (4506 m).
I apologize for the separate topic, the moderator, if he deems it necessary, can move it to another.
Next there will be a lot of letters and some photos, please do not comment until I finish.
Go

Lyrical introduction
Because The team of like-minded people didn’t work out, and I didn’t want to postpone the trip for another year, so I decided to take part in a commercial tour. An advantage in choosing a commercial tour was the fact that I am a novice in mountain tourism and mountaineering and, moreover, have not been involved in sports at all for several years. In the spring, I found a Nosibirsk travel agency online with low prices and availability of reviews and reports on the proposed route, booked a tour and began to prepare. The travel agency provided guides, instructors, bivouac and alps. equipment, organized transport from Novosibirsk, registration of passes to the border zone and meals along the route. The only thing left for the participants was to get an individual tour. equipment and clothing, health and sufficient physical fitness? My preparation consisted of finding and purchasing uniforms and trying to get into physical shape. A lot of time, nerves and money (more than the cost of the tour) were spent on uniforms, because... In the summer in Krasnoyarsk, finding decent, inexpensive clothes in stock and the required size is very problematic. My advice: if you want high-quality clothes at a decent price, start looking at least six months in advance (preferably earlier) in bourgeois online stores. In the end, I stocked up on the necessary clothes, boots, and bought a new backpack. I borrowed many useful little things such as trekking poles, a burner, compression bags, and backpack covers from friends. In general, I approached the issue of equipment thoroughly, which I never regretted, everything I took was useful, there was practically nothing superfluous and there was no shortage of anything.
I approached gaining physical fitness less scrupulously. The entire training consisted of bike rides, mainly to and from work with small loops. Of course, I didn’t ride at a walking pace, but the runs weren’t big, 20-40 km/day, 3 times a week. As a result, the season before the start of the tour, I completed a thousand kilometers on a bicycle, did abdominal exercises and push-ups a couple of times at home, and went up to the horizontal bar 3 times? I slightly reduced my diet without qualitatively changing the composition. There were big doubts about the fizuha, but with whatever form I approached the route, I went with it. I was a little happy that since the New Year I have lost about 10 kg. The upsetting thing was that 3 days before the start from Novosibirsk, I seriously rubbed my heels with my boots, and at about the same time, my unstable cervical vertebra shifted and I twisted my head with severe pain and great difficulty. Looking ahead, I’ll say that I struggled with my heels almost until I left the route, but fortunately there were no serious complications and I didn’t wear them down. And I forgot about my neck after I slept the first night on a flat surface in a tent and harnessed myself to my backpack in the morning. Apparently, under load, the muscles put everything in place and did not allow it to move anymore.
The dates for the route were set for August 5-21. August crept up very quickly and all I had to do was buy a ticket to Novosibirsk, pack my backpack, and hope for the best? The final assembly of the backpack was carried out using kitchen scales. Competing clothes and clothes were selected by weight, some were simply mercilessly left at home, and in the end we managed to bring the weight of the backpack without bivouac, alpine equipment and food to 18 kg. So he moved to Novosibirsk. Then the tour began called “Attempt to climb Eastern Belukha M540302B.”
Route plan(taken from the travel agency website and edited):
1-2 days. Evening departure from Novosibirsk along the Chuysky tract. Night on the bus. Day 2. Evening arrival at the clearing in front of the village. Tyungur, preparing to leave. Overnight in tents.
Day 3. Trekking along the auto track through the low wooded Kuzuyak pass (n/k, 1513 m), into the gorge of the river. Akkem (15 km). Overnight in tents.
Day 4 Ascent along the path passing through the river gorge. Akkem to a place opposite the mouth of the river. Tekkel (20 km). Overnight in tents.
Day 5 Trekking along the trail to Lake Akkem, located at an altitude of 2000 m. Overnight in tents.
6-7 days. Acclimatization trips to the Akkem glacier under the northern kilometer-long wall of Mount Belukha and training sessions on ice technique on the ice “Titova” (Watermelon). Overnight in tents (or glaciologists' house at the Tomsk sites).
Day 8 Along rope railings organized by instructors-guides, climb a 250-meter ice slope to the Delaunay pass (2B, 3600 m) and exit to the kingdom of snow (the upper fields of the Mensu glacier). Overnight in tents in the assault camp on the BBS pass (Big Berel Saddle).
Day 9 Climbing the eastern peak of Mount Belukha. Descent from the top along the ascent route to the camp on the lane. BBS. Overnight in tents.
Day 10 Descent to Lake Akkem.
11-13 days. Reserve days for bad weather. They were not used during the ascent and were spent on rest, bathing and laundry procedures and walks around the surroundings of Lake Akkem. We visited the valley of 7 lakes and the Yarlu valley.
14-15 days. Crossing the lane "Kara-Turek" (1A, 3060 m) on the river. Kucherla. Descent along the river Kucherla to the river Katun near the village Tyungur. Overnight in tents.
Day 16 Evening departure to Novosibirsk.

So, in order.
The company sent 2 groups to Tungur. Our locomotive crew consists of 12 people, including 3 conductors and a walking group of 5 people, including 1 conductor. There were participants from Moscow, Ivanovo, Nizhny Novgorod, Surgut, Novosibirsk, Germany and somewhere else. The company, despite the prefabricated composition, was pleasant, there were no conflicts or tensions, but there was quite cordial communication? In this train we traveled to Lake Akkem, then our paths diverged.
The transfer went according to plan. Having been stuck on the bus for almost a day, having spent 1.5 hours at the border post, we safely arrived in Tungur on the evening of August 6th. The instructors distributed the common fund, the food needed for trekking to the lake among the participants, the rest of the food and the general alpuha were left for horseback transportation. It was recommended to critically review the set of personal belongings and leave unnecessary things under supervision in Tungur; everyone had a few such things. I left a set of clean clothes and linen for departure. As a result, the weight of the backpack felt about 25-28 kg.
This was followed by 2.5 days of classic trekking to Lake Akkem. There is nothing particularly noteworthy along this path. Kuzuyak Pass is indistinct, wooded, no views. After it, the car track descends to Akkem, but follows at some distance from it, and soon after a clearing called “Three Birches” (overnight place) the road ends and a well-trodden forest path begins. On the second day, after lunch, the trail descends to Akkem, followed by a couple of small pressure points that go along the scree slope. On the third day, by lunchtime we reached the St. Petersburg base "Vysotnik", where you can rent a house or put up a tent, there is a bathhouse. Soon after Vysotnik we went to the hydrometeorological station, where the lake actually began, after another 15 minutes we passed the rescue base (there, too, there is the opportunity to stay in barrel houses and order a bathhouse). Having walked to the beginning of the lake, we set up camp in a large clearing. There are quite a lot of people on the lake, tent camps are stretched along the entire left bank (orographically) of the lake, there are a few camps on the other side. I think that I will not be mistaken if I assume that the total number of tents was about a hundred.
It should be noted that the company was going well, they did not stretch too much during the transitions, with the exception of 2 comrades from Novosibirsk, who periodically lagged behind.
We were lucky with the weather along the way. The rain scared us only on the third day of the active part of our trip. So it drizzled with varying degrees of success for half a day on the way to the lake; for the remaining half of the day there was either dense fog or net light drizzling rain on the lake, which smoothly turned into each other. Sometimes the gloom was blown away by the wind, but it was still damp and chilly. Low clouds prevented us from seeing the long-awaited Akkem wall with the double-headed Belukha mountain. Our guides frightened us with the upcoming trek the next day in rain and fog along the moraine and glacier under the Akkem wall to the “Tomsk sites”. I went to bed with a little anxiety about the day ahead.

10th of August
In the morning there was fog and low clouds on the lake, the nearby low peaks were dusted with freshly fallen snow, the Akkem wall remained hidden. The departure was scheduled for 13:00. Before lunch, the guides finally dismantled the horse transport. Equipment and food for the ascent were distributed among the participants, the rest was taken to the rescuers for safekeeping. We also left some of the things we didn’t need at the top with the rescuers. The group, following the route on foot, left at about 10 o'clock for the Yarlu valley. The clouds gradually rose and were blown away by the wind, slightly revealing the Akkem wall, and closer to lunch both peaks of Belukha opened up to our eyes, we finally saw the goal of our event.
The “Tomsk sites” are a low moraine ridge located under the Akkem wall to the left of the Belukha peaks at an altitude of 3000m. At the top of the shaft there is a house for glaciologists (now used by rescuers, and in their absence by tourists), on the slope of the shaft there are cleared and leveled areas for tents.
The house was occupied by Chelyabinsk climbers who came for a training camp, so we spent the night in tents. There were a lot of people at Tomsk, almost all the tent sites were occupied.
We didn’t get up early, had breakfast and slowly got ready for ice lessons on the tongue of the Titov glacier - Arbuz.
We practiced moving along a slope wearing crampons, climbing and descending along railings (ropes), and moving in conjunction with intermediate belay points on ice screws. In general, we mastered the basic skills, the very basics.
The weather was perfect, sunny, calm, it was hot on the glacier, the snow on the surface was limp, and streams were running everywhere.
We trained until lunch. After lunch, the guides went to hang the railings on the Delaunay pass, and hung 6 ropes from the bergschrund to the top.
The end of the day was memorable with a delicious cake and a couple of sips of champagne in honor of the birthday of Masha from Moscow :). Her boyfriend Vova bravely carried the treats.

12th of August
We got up early, had breakfast, broke camp and at about 9 o’clock moved out onto the Titov glacier towards the Delaunay pass (2B, 3600 m).
The pass was the first category obstacle on our way; the ascent to it is along an ice slope, 250 m long and steep up to 50 degrees. Approaching the bergschrund, we discovered that a group of tourists was already climbing up our railings; in the end, we waited about an hour until the guides drove the scoundrels :) off the ropes and the traffic jam cleared. The climb also took about an hour or a little more.
We descended from the pass to the upper plateau of the Mensu glacier (the descent is short and not difficult), we had a snack there and tied up in groups and moved in the direction of the BBS pass (Big Berel Saddle).
There wasn't much snow on the glacier, the cracks were clearly visible, the path between them had already been laid, so it was easy and quite safe to walk. Only a few times we encountered unreliable snow bridges over cracks that we carefully crossed. Crossing the upper plateau of the Mensu glacier, we saw a large icefall of the glacier; at times we encountered very beautiful textured cracks.
In general, glaciers, cracks, the height gained, all this was a first for me, so I walked and was slowly amazed by the views and panoramas that opened up. The only thing that made movement difficult was the intense heat. The plateau is a huge bowl, in some places it’s just flat, solar radiation in such conditions scorches from all sides, a real microwave. I walked in a thin thermal jacket without a jacket and felt my bones warming up? By lunchtime the snow had softened and become heavy. We crossed the glacier and slowly climbed up a gentle slope to the BBS pass, where we set up an assault camp.
The BBC was also crowded. There were 14 tents along with ours. The border with Kazakhstan runs along the watershed of this pass and some of the tents and, of course, the toilet were abroad? The next day we planned to climb, so we went to bed early.

August 13
The guides got us up for breakfast at 5 am, ate, got ready and left for the climb at 6:20. There was cloudiness below us; they were afraid that it would rise to the level of the summit and obscure visibility.
We climbed the classic route 3A, walked almost lightly, carried warm jackets, ropes and 0.5 heated water with us. The ascent at the beginning passes along a snow plateau under the Belukhinsky pass (3A 4300 m).
The pass is located in the ridge extending from the town of "Eastern Belukha". The climb is 150m long. ice slope, steepness 45 degrees. Before reaching the bergschrund, we hid under the ice cornice while the instructor hung the first 2 ropes to the pass, then I raised him another one and took turns climbing the railings. The taken 3 ropes, about 30 meters, were not enough to reach the top; the guide of the parallel group kindly shared with us. Around 10 o'clock we climbed out onto the pass, rested, had a snack, took photographs, tied ourselves together and walked along the rocky and ice ridge to the top. In 2 transitions we reached the gentle pre-summit ridge.
At 11:15 our group stood at the Summit. The top is a platform about 40 meters long, inclined towards western Belukha, so it does not offer views in all directions, but only the western hemisphere. The eastern direction is covered by rising snow caps, which are dangerous to approach. Approximately in the middle, on the western edge of the site, there is a small rocky ledge with memorial tablets and an ice ax with a bell, which is customary to ring.
There was no wild joy, no euphoria, the impressions are difficult to understand and convey, but it was great. Probably at these moments most of those who came were happy.
We took pictures, sat and half an hour later set out on the way back. We descended along the ascent path. The sun was hot as usual, there was no wind, the snow was limp. Below the Belukhinsky pass, the trail passed along an avalanche-rock dangerous slope, which they tried to pass as quickly as possible. By 15 o'clock we were in the camp at the BBS.
There was a wild shortage of water during the ascent. Everyone's heated water quickly ran out. Apparently due to the fact that everyone was puffing, their mouths were wildly dry, everyone was actively eating snow and sucking icicles. It helped a little, but there was no other moisture.
In the evening there were clouds and clouds walking around, we no longer had much hope for good weather in the coming days. The thought of descending into snow, rain and fog was a little upsetting, but the joy of a successful ascent was much stronger. Before going to bed, there was a sense of joyful excitement in the tent.
A few words about altitude sickness. No one in our team suffered seriously from the miner, Vova from Moscow had some symptoms, but he was doing well. Several people, including me, started having a dry cough back in Tomsk; experienced people claimed that it was not a cold, but a high-altitude cough. They probably weren’t deceived; in the forest zone, almost everyone felt better. In the second group, people were more depressed, 3 people were vomiting on the climb to the top, they only arrived at 12:50.

August 14. Descent from the BBS to Lake Akkem.
The next morning, concerns about the weather were dispelled. Below us there was a thin fog, the clouds had disappeared during the night.
We set out early because... Most of the participants wanted to quickly get to the lake, and only the senior guide, doubting the abilities of the “outsiders” (as he called his lagging comrades), did not believe in the feasibility of such a transition and until the last suggested spending the night on the Tomsk. As on previous treks, the sun was scorching, it was hot to walk. During all these days of good weather, almost all the snow disappeared from the slopes of Delaunay and the descent from the pass was on ice.
There was also almost no snow left on the Titov glacier; it was all cut up by streams running at different angles. The Tomsk people had a snack with tea.
The collective mind won, at 3 o’clock we moved further and safely descended to the lake by 8 o’clock.
Everyone was tired from the long trek, but no one got to the point. We set up camp in the same clearing, took the things left by the rescuers, and collected firewood. Thus ended our stay in the snow zone. The travel agency’s program states: the group leaves the glacial zone and descends into the “green paradise” of the Akkem Gorge. Lake Akkem hardly looks like a “green paradise”, but everyone wanted a fire, and staying on the greenery was pleasant.

August 15-17. Reserve days.
One day was entirely devoted to rest, everyone washed, dried, shaved, and in the evening they went to the bathhouse at the GMS. The weather still pleased us with the sun, but there were clouds periodically hanging on the peaks; it seemed that it was not so sunny on the south side of Belukha.
The next day we went on a light bike to the Valley of 7 Lakes. This is an intermountain valley located behind the slope that goes down to the lake above our camp. Quite picturesque: snowy peaks, rocky ridges and small lakes with clear water among the reddening dwarf birch trees.
After lunch we returned to camp. The weather continued to spoil us and repeated the program of the previous day.
The remaining reserve day was devoted to a walk to the Yarlu Valley. Yarlu seems to be the name of the ridge and the stream flowing from it. Popular among followers and admirers of Roerich. According to legend, during his trans-Asian expedition, Roerich, in search of Shambhala, spent a lot of time in Altai, in particular the Belukha region. In the Yarlu Valley, he found a granite boulder (the main rock there is not granite) with unusual energy, like a place of power. I didn’t specifically look for information on the Internet, I’m writing what I heard. The pilgrims built a “stone city” around the stone, erected pyramids and tours. The man-made sculptures did not seem interesting to me, the valley itself is nice, it is quiet and warm there, the ridges have different colors and shades. What I remember most from the walk was the ford through Akkem (the water was so icy that my legs ached incredibly, the girls were screaming) and the edelweiss trees blooming in abundance in the Yarlu Valley.
The sun was shining until lunch, then clouds began to gather and we even got a little splashed on the way to camp. Once again it seemed that the weather had completely deteriorated, but the main clouds blew by, and only occasionally the wind blew drops onto our camp. But bad weather raged over Belukha and Tomsk. By night it became clearer.

August 18-19. Exit.
In the morning we gathered camp and went to the Kara-Turek pass (1A, 3080 m). We quickly rose from the forest area, and the kurumnik went further. The climb is not difficult, just tedious, long along a path on a non-steep scree slope.
Everyone ran in quickly, had a snack upstairs, and took pictures.
Beyond the pass we followed the upper path leading along the ridge routes. There is another one, which immediately falls to the Kucherla River along the Tekelyushka River, but according to the stories of the Altai people, there was a mudflow there. The trail went along the top for more than an hour, then began to descend. Along the way we came across a stone hut (some kind of old building, possibly a shepherd's house), then the path descended into the forest. All this time the descent was not steep; at times the bends of Kucherla could be seen far below. It had not rained for a long time and the trail was dry, very dusty in places. Walking along a forest horse trail we came out onto a steep slope going down to the river. A steep, dusty path traversed in zigzags along the slope. The descent was difficult; for the first time during the hike, my long-injured knees began to really hurt. The heights dropped quite a bit, 400 meters, maybe more. Having descended into the Kucherly valley, we set up camp in a large clearing. In total, the height gained during the day while climbing Kara-Turek was 1050 m, then 1700 m was dropped.
The next day, in the morning, we had a fight with the Altai people, who were trying to extract money from us, allegedly for standing in their clearing. Then we walked down Kucherla. For lunch we stopped near a rock with petroglyphs. The drawings didn't impress me, they were a bunch of assholes. By 17 o'clock we reached the bridge over Kucherla above the village, and spent the night there, because... the bus was not expected until the next evening. The weather traditionally did not give us any surprises, it was sunny, there were rare clouds in the sky.
In the morning we gathered camp and went through the village of Kucherla to the village of Tungur. In Tungur, we ate in cafes, dismantled the horse-drawn carriage, picked up the things left at the start, went to the bathhouse and boarded the bus for 18 hours. On the way to Novosibirsk it rained periodically. We got there quickly. At 12:20 on August 21, we already unloaded near the travel agency.
This is how probably my most serious voyage ended - successful"Attempt to climb Eastern Belukha M540302B."
Thank you for your attention:)

Yaroslavl city mountain tourism club "Irbis"

REPORT
about a mountain hiking trip of the fourth category of difficulty,
committed from 08/06/2002 to 08/23/2002 in the Altai Mountains area along the route:
Tungur village – Kuzuyak lane (n\k, 1513) – Akkemskoe lake – lane. Delaunay (2B, 3400) –

ascent to the peak Belukha Eastern (3A alp., 4506) (via Belukhinsky lane (3A, 4400))

– spur ver. Delone - Bichanka dam - Karaoyuk lane (2B, 3500) - lake. Akkemskoe – lane. Akkem (1B, 3334) – Tungur village.

Day's journey	date	Route section	Length (km)
		village Tungur - per. Kuzuyak (n/k, 1513)
		lane Kuzuyak (n/k, 1513) – r. Akkem

		R. Akkem - lake Akkemskoe
		lake Akkemskoe – Tomsk sites
		lane Delaunay (2A, 3400) – Berel sites
		climbing to the top of Belukha East (3A alp., 4506) (via Belukhinsky lane (3A, 4400))

		Berel sites - ice. Mensu
		bad weather
		bad weather
		Bichanka lintel - approach under the lane. Karaoyuk(2B, 3500)
		lane Karaoyuk(2B, 3500)
		lake Akkemskoe – the valley of the “seven lakes”
		lane Akkem(1B, 3334)
		R. Kucherla
		R. Kucherla
		R. Kucherla - village Tyungur

Information about the participants of the trip

FULL NAME.	Responsibilities in the group	Year of birth	Home address	Place of work	Mountain trekking experience
Skaryukin Ivan	Supervisor		Yaroslavl Lenin Ave. 18/50-53 t. 73-82-18		III Altai hands. II Caucasus hands. VI Caucasus IV High Alai
Zverev Andrey			Rybinsk, Plekhanov St., 33, apt. 71	OJSC Yartelecom	III Caucasus II Caucasus
Savitsky Alexey			Yaroslavl, Chkalova st., 28/21 apt. 8		III Caucasus II Caucasus
Sharypova Oksana			Yaroslavl st. Uritskogo 36 apt. 51	Sberbank	IV Caucasus III Caucasus
Rezepov Andrey			Rybinsk	Gortelekanal	IV Caucasus III Caucasus
Pavlova Elena			Titova 14-3-45	Medical unit of the oil refinery	III Caucasus III Caucasus
Kokuev Alexander	repairman		Rybinsk

2.08.02 – 5.08.02 Yaroslavl – Barnaul – a\l “Vysotnik”

Cost of train tickets: to Moscow – 136 rubles; from Moscow to Biysk – 1122 rubles. Despite the fact that tickets were purchased to Biysk, in Barnaul we agreed with the KVZ bus driver, who took us to the Vysotnik alpine camp for 650 rubles. per person. Travel time by bus is 17 hours 30 minutes.

6.08.02 – 9.08.02 village Tungur - per. Kuzuyak (n/k, 1513) - Lake Akkemskoye

Our route starts from the village. Tyungur. There is a suspension bridge across the Katun River, crossing or crossing which you get to the St. Petersburg tourist center “Vysotnik”. On the territory of the camp site you can spend the night in a comfortable campsite for 30–50 rubles, or for 15–30 rubles. in your tent.

From the camp site, the road after 3-4 km leads to the village of Kucherla, where it bifurcates. The right branch leads up the valley of the Kucherla River, and the left (along the way) leads to the bridge over the Kucherla River. After the bridge, the road goes through the forest for about 4-5 km, and then comes out into a vast field, where it in turn bifurcates: both branches of the road lead to the river valley. Akkem, but the right one is through the Kuzuyak lane, and the left one goes around the mountains from the north along the Katun River. We move along the right branch and get to the parking lot under the pass

The next day, in 3 transitions (in the future, by “transition” we will mean the group’s movement for 40 minutes) we climb the Kuzuyak Pass (01 on the map).

It took us 30 minutes to descend to the stream. There is a hut here where you can spend the night if necessary. From here it’s another 30 minutes walk to the terrace on the left bank of the Akkem River. There is a large field on it, where the road bifurcates: the right branch leads to the upper reaches of the Akkem River valley, and the left branch leads to a bridge to the right bank of the Akkem River. From the fork about 2 km. The road goes through the field to the Three Birches parking lot, where it ends. You can get to this place by all-terrain vehicle. Further up to Lake Akkem there is a well-packed horse trail. We get up at the Three Birches. There are also convenient overnight stays along the entire length of the trail in the interval of one, maximum two, transitions from one another.

The next day we walk along the Akkem River. We get to the parking lot before reaching 3 crossings to Lake Akkemskoye. Not a kilometer from the lake, there is a tent camp of the St. Petersburg tourist center “Vysotnik”. There is a weather station on Lake Akkem and a search and rescue team from the Gorno-Altaisk Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia.

10.08.02 - Lake Akkemskoye - Tomsk sites.

It took a long time to prepare the delivery, which was left at the Akkem PSO for 200 rubles. There they checked in with the rescuers, who warned that there was a storm warning from 12.08 - very successful, because... An ascent to the top of Belukha is planned for this day. We left late, so we arrived at the Tomsk parking lot after the sun had set. We recommend going out onto the glacier at the first convenient place, because... it is much more convenient to walk along it. Dinner was prepared in the house.

11.08.02 – per. Delaunay (2A, 3400) – Berel sites

The pass is not difficult and quite pleasant (point 8 on the map). The determining side is the western one. In the afternoon, stones fly. The approach from the house at the Tomsk parking lot to the takeoff to the Delaunay Pass took 40 minutes. It goes first along the right (in the direction of travel) edge, and then along the center of the glacier. The glacier is smooth, there are no cracks. The pass takeoff is an ice slope up to 35 - 40 ° (in the lower part there is snow, firn).

In the lower part there are two bergschrunds, covered by bridges. Above the second berg there are 250 meters of railings. The total time for the transfer takeoff is 2 hours 30 minutes. When climbing, you should not approach the rocks on the left along the way - rockfalls are possible. The pass saddle is snow-ice, there is a crack in the center, and rocks in the eastern part.

They went down in bundles. Next is an almost flat upper field of the lateral tributary of the glacier with cracks on the descent to the main glacier. Large cracks (two of them) run along the bridges: the upper one is closer to the southern edge, the lower one along the bridge in the center (also a little closer to the southern edge). The descent from the pass to the bottom point of the path on the Mensu glacier takes about 30 minutes. You can stand here. We crossed the glacier, passed by the lane. The BBS stood a little higher at the Berel parking lots (the parking spots had already been dug).

Climbing to the peak Belukha East 4506 (via Belukhinsky lane (3A, 4400))

We leave for the assault on the summit at 7:50 am. From the overnight stay we move in the direction of the lane. Belukhinsky. After 1 hour we arrived at the parking lot at the TKT pass. Having overcome several cracks we came under the pass.

Per. Belukhinsky is located between the Razdelnaya and Belukha Vostochnaya peaks. There is a bergschrundt on the uphill side. Slope - snow and firn with a length of 100-150m, average steepness - 40 degrees. Above the Bergschrundt the steepness of a small section is up to 50 degrees. Lifting in ligaments

Not reaching the saddle about 10 meters, the promised storm began. There are places for tents on the saddle. At the pass we met a group from Perm, who said that at the top the wind was even stronger and advised us to return to camp.

A gentle ridge leads towards the Belukha Vostochnaya peak. On the left is a rocky slope, on the right is snow and ice. There are short sections (5-8m) with a steepness of up to 40 degrees. We moved to the top in two groups on snow and ice wearing crampons, although you can also climb on rocks. The total ascent time to Belukha is 6 hours: ascent time to the lane. Belukhinsky from the overnight place was 4 hours, from the pass to the. Eastern Beluga - 2 hours.

Unfortunately, the lack of any visibility beyond 30-50 m did not allow us to appreciate the beauty of the view opening from the highest point of Altai (point 13 of the map).

Descent to the camp along the ascent route.

08/13/02 - day.

08/14/02 - Berel sites – Mensu glacier

After one transition we descended from the upper ice plateau. Mensu to the icefall.

We descended from the ridge of Delaunay Peak, going around the icefall. Alternating between rappelling and free climbing on rocks, we reached the Mensu glacier, to the left of the icefall (along the way).

08/15/02 – 08/17/02 – Bichanka lintel – approach lane. Karaoyuk(2B, 3500).

08/17/02 through the Bichanka jumper (point 21 of the map) (ascent - rocks, descent - snowy forehead with a berg below (one rope)). We pass by Titov Lane and stop at a parking lot on a moraine bank before reaching Druzhba Lane.

08/18/02 - per. Karaoyuk(2B, 3500) (point 20 of the map)

The climb is not difficult. Two hours later we were at the pass. The tour was not found.

descent from the lane Karaoyuk

The descent is a snow-ice slope with a steepness of up to 70 °. In total, about 500 meters of railings were hung. A self-twisting ice screw was used. 3 bergs were crossed via snow bridges.

Of particular danger is rockfall from the rocks on the right side (along the route); we recommend sticking to the middle of the slope. Then, sticking to the left side of the glacier and then the madder, we came to the lake where we parked.

08/19/02 – Lake Akkemskoye – the valley of the “seven lakes”.

Two hours after leaving we were at the crossing of the Akkem River. The water rose, so they were crossed using a cable stretched across the river. We took the delivery from the rescuers, had a snack and at 17:50. were at a parking lot in the valley of the “seven lakes”.

08/20/02 – per. Akkem (1B, 3334).

The Akkem Pass is located in the ridge separating the valleys of the Akkem and Kucherla rivers, between peaks of 3334 m and 3430 m.

When moving groups from Lake Akkemskoye to Lake Kucherlinskoye, the lane is more logical and convenient. Riga-Tourist 1B, leading like the Akkem pass from the upper reaches of the river. Ak-Oyuk, but having a significantly lower altitude (2850).

The Akkem pass is not passed directly head-on along the wall, but through the peak of 3334m (to the right as you go). Direct passage is also possible, but in this case the difficulty will increase to 2A (rocky).

Climbing path: along a steep scree slope to the saddle east of peak 3334, then along a wide destroyed ridge to the left to the top. The climb to the top 3334 m from the lake took 3.5 hours. From the top there is a magnificent panorama of the Belukha massif and the upper reaches of the river. Kucherla.

The descent to the Akkem pass passes along a narrow rocky, heavily destroyed ridge. The saddle of the pass is divided into several saddles by rocky ledges. It is better to start the descent from the nearest saddle to the mountain. 3334 m. The pass from the west is a very steep scree slope, divided by several gutters. You have to be very careful. The downward movement is carried out slowly, in a tight group, first straight down, then with a smooth movement to the right. The descent to a small lake with a green lawn under the pass took 1.5 hours.

21-23.08.02 – Tungur village.

08/23/02 We came to Vysotnik and immediately agreed with the bus driver for travel to Biysk for 500 rubles. per person.

In the village for 50 rubles. per person we agreed with the bathhouse; in the climbing camp it costs much more.

At 17:00 50 min. We left the village of Tyungur.

08/24/02 – Biysk.

We were in Biysk at 5:55 am. We immediately bought tickets to Novosibirsk and from Novosibirsk to Yaroslavl. total cost is about 1200 rubles. per person.

Map main part of the hike:

Additional information about the hike.

Public equipment

Weather

The weather was unstable throughout the trip. In total, we lost 3 days due to bad weather.

The length of the hike is 139 km.

Duration – 18 days.

Good luck to everyone on the journey!

Belukha: background information:

Mount Belukha (Alt. Uch-Sumer - Three-headed, Kadyn-Bazhy - Top of the Katun) is the highest point of the Altai Mountains (4506 m), crowning the Katunsky ridge. Located on the territory of the Ust-Koksinsky district. The Katun River originates here. The name comes from the abundant snow that covers the mountain from the top to the very bottom. Mount Belukha is represented by two peaks in the form of irregular pyramids - Eastern (4506 m) and Western Belukha (4435 m), falling almost vertically to the north towards the Akkem glacier and gradually descending to the south, towards the Katunsky glacier.

The depression between the peaks, called “Belukha Saddle” (4000 m), also abruptly drops north to the Akkem glacier (Akkem wall) and more gently descends south to the Katun River.

The history of climbing to the top of Belukha

In 1836, Belukha was examined by doctor of medicine F. Gebler, who undertook an eye-based determination of its height. Gebler collected a collection of medicinal plants, and discovered the Katunsky and Berelsky glaciers.
1904 - Samuel Turner tried to climb Belukha in winter (early April).
1914 - first climbers the Tronov brothers made the first ascent of Belukha in the history of mountaineering.

At the end of May 2013, information was received from the Ural Alpine Club - during training camps in Altai, border guards were categorically Climbing Belukha is prohibited along the classic route through the Delaunay pass and the BBS (Big Berel Saddle).

Border guards are located on the barrels of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and now everyone is prohibited from climbing the Akkem glacier. The “Tomsk sites” are now part of a five-kilometer restricted zone and we are not allowed to go out onto the Akkem glacier. Now in the summer there will be a border cordon here! Border guards followed us everywhere for 5 days. Every day we reported where we were going to go and, if we climbed to the top, they watched us with binoculars. A checkpoint was set up above the chapel.

Here is more information from TCB participants: “ Preparation for an expedition always began with obtaining a border pass. It was enough to send the data of 5-6 participants and the pass was issued without any problems. By phone we found out the pass number and at the control post, which was located in front of Ust-Koksa, we completed the registration of the participants who joined later. This was where the check ended, we calmly climbed Belukha

Starting this year, the border zone regime has changed - now you don’t need to apply for a pass to travel through Ust-Koksa and you can safely be on Lake Akkem without a pass. If earlier we left our passports at the Vysotnik base and took a copy of the passport with us, now we need to carry a passport with us. A detachment of border guards can check you both on the trail and at the pass.

In the Ust-Koksy border detachment, the commander was replaced, who now does not issue border passes to anyone into the 5-kilometer zone. And for violation, participants face fines of 2,000 rubles. up to 5,000 rubles, and the manager faces a fine of up to 30,000 rubles. or an article of the Criminal Code (Criminal Code).”

If you try to understand the situation, the following becomes clear.

Until now, passes were issued to a five-kilometer zone, while in the application it was enough to indicate only the valleys (Akkem, Mensu), without specifying the planned route. Naturally, no one mentioned climbing Belukha in the application for the pass. The border guards did not actually control the upper reaches of the valleys; passes were checked lower down. At the same time, a pass was required simply to enter the area, even if you did not plan to enter the five-kilometer zone.

The first bell rang last year - the group that climbed Belukha was detained on the way back: “ They detained the entire group, confiscated the camera, threw off the photographs and practically forced one of the participants to write in an explanatory note that the group had been to Belukha, intimidating them with responsibility for giving false testimony. As a result, an administrative case has now been opened against the group leader and he faces a fine. Charge under Article 18.1 of the Code of Administrative Offences.«

Since this year, probably after the order, or after the replacement of the head of the border detachment, the situation has changed. Passes to the five-kilometer zone are issued, but border guards have begun to control the upper reaches of the valleys (there is information that in the summer the post will be at Tomsk overnight camps), so they will be able to stop attempts to climb through the Delaunay Pass in the bud.

How is the border between Russia and Kazakhstan in the Belukha area?

To understand the situation, look at the document ““.

The state border between the Republic of Kazakhstan and the Russian Federation (hereinafter referred to as the border), described below, is plotted with a solid red line on the Map of the state border between the Republic of Kazakhstan and the Russian Federation at a scale of 1:100,000 (hereinafter referred to as the Map). All distances given in this Description are measured using this Map with an accuracy of 0.1 km.

From point 1408, the boundary goes in a general north-northeast direction along the crest of the unnamed ridge through heights with marks: 2019.0; 2513.1; 2601.1; 2610.2; 2964.3; 3262.2 and 3191.4 for 26.4 km to point 1409, located on the city. Belukha in the center of the geodetic point with elevation 4499.6. ( Note is a ridge approaching Belukha from the south, in which there are the TKT and Katyn-bash passes, Razdelny Peak)
From point 1409 the border goes in a general easterly direction along the ridge of the Katunsky ridge through heights with marks: 3851.0 ( Note — Peak of Heroic Korea); 3972.4; 3217.0 and 3186.3 for 15.7 km to point 1410, located 8.5 km southwest of the geodetic point with elevation 3558.1.

The border of the Russian Federation and Kazakhstan in the Belukha area - map fragment 1 cm: 5 km.

Thus, herself Belukha is on the border, A part of the classic route to Belukha via the Delone Pass(starting from the Big Berel Saddle pass) passes through the territory of Kazakhstan. As they say, comments are unnecessary. Let us remind you that according to the law, crossing the border is only possible at special points.

Climbing routes to Belukha.

However, on the “classic” through the Delaunay pass the light did not converge like a wedge. Moreover, recently this route is increasingly turning into a typical commercial route - with a horse ride, fixed (on melting ice screws) railings to the Delaunay Pass and mountain climbers seeing crampons and jumars for the first time.

Let's see what it offers us.

№	Vertex	height	c.s.	Nature of the route	Route	PV	Gorge
8	Belukha (B)	4506	2B	To	with L. Katunsky through the “saddle”	M. and B. Tronov, 1914	Katun
9			3A	PM	SE slope	A. Afanasyev, 1993	Akkem
9a			3A	PM	"pillows" of the SE slope	T. Kuznetsova, 1993	Akkem
10			3B	To	South ridge from the lane. TKT	V. Khizhnyak, 1963	Akkem
11			3B	To	from Berelsky Lake and SE ridge	E. Alekseev, 1937	Berel
12			4A	To	NE ridge over Delaunay Peak	V. Abalakov, 1933	Akkem
13			4B	PM	From the wall through the “saddle”	V. Grakovich, 1982	Akkem
14			5A	PM	Diretissime From the wall	A. Afanasyev, 1985	Akkem
15			5A	PM	icefalls NW walls	A. Belov, 1986	Akkem
15a			5A	To	left part of the northwestern wall	I. Slobodchikov, 1996	Akkem
16	Belukha (W)	4435	3A	To	with L. Katunsky through the “saddle”	Pechersky, 1936	Katun
17			3B	To	from the southwest across the western plateau with Chernyi Lake	E. Alekseev, 1937	Katun
18			5A	To	From the wall	I. Plotnikov, 1996	Akkem

Routes to Belukha. Green - on the territory of the Russian Federation, red - on the territory of Kazakhstan, yellow - on the border. A fragment of Vadim Lyapin's map was used.

There are several simple routes (9, 9a, 10, 11) from the southeast - these are actually options for the so-called classics. These routes pass across the territory of Kazakhstan, accordingly, they must also be approached from Kazakh territory, along the Belaya Berel valley(see topographic map above). Next is the ascent to the Bolshoye Berelskoye Sedlo pass aka BBS (3A) from the south: a small icefall and a half-kilometer snow-ice slope turning into a couloir. The BBS is usually climbed from the north, from the Delaunay Pass. Ascent to the top of Belukha - along one of the routes: from the TKT pass through the Razdelny peak, through the Katyn-Bash pass (this is the descent route if there is no avalanche danger) or through the Berelsky peak.

Directly from the Akkem glacier there are several difficult routes (including the famous “Bottle” - route No. 13 and Abalakov’s route through Delaunay Peak No. 12) - these options are clearly not for the general public.

However, there are two more routes from the south, from Russian territory. The classic route from the Katun Valley along the Gebler Glacier (No. 8) is the route along which the first ascent of Belukha was made in 1914. Just 10 years ago, this was a very popular commercial route, and it was driven mainly by Kazakh guides. The main difficulty of the route is passing the icefall on the Gebler glacier (one of the tongues of the Katunsky glacier). Having reached the upper plateau, you can climb both Eastern and Western Belukha (route No. 16). In recent years, the icefall has undergone changes and the difficulty of passing it has increased.

And route No. 17 along the Cherny glacier through the Western Plateau to Western Belukha. Also, the main difficulty is passing the icefall of the Cherny glacier; we have no information about its current state.

In addition, there is another route that was not included in the classifier - through the peak of the 20th anniversary of October, also known as the Crown of Altai. There is an unclassified (approximately corresponding to the difficulty of the pass 3A) option of climbing to this peak along the Western ridge from the Mushtu-Ayry glacier, the valley of the river. Kucherla. Next is a simple descent to the Western Plateau, from where you can climb Western Belukha along route 2B, or make a “Chinese hike” to the Eastern Peak through one of the passes in the ridge extending north from Western Belukha.

Rules for visiting the Russian border zone.

And a little more about the rules for visiting the border zone. Don't forget that the peak of Eastern Belukha is located on the border. Here are the current rules for visiting the Russian border zone:

1.7.10. Persons located within a five-kilometer strip of terrain, on islands, as well as to the boundary of engineering structures in cases where it is located outside the five-kilometer strip of terrain, prohibited:
a) be in a hundred-meter strip of terrain:

adjacent to the state border on land (except for the lands of settlements adjacent to the state border) - around the clock;
adjacent to the Russian banks of border rivers, lakes and other water bodies where a border regime is established - with the onset of darkness (astronomical, from sunset to sunrise);
———————————
With the exception of:
persons transiting through the border zone, including when leaving the Russian Federation or entering the Russian Federation - on international railway, road routes or in other places determined by international treaties of the Russian Federation or decisions of the Government of the Russian Federation;
persons who own, use and (or) dispose of land plots or residential premises located within a hundred-meter strip of terrain;
citizens and organizations with permits for economic, fishing and other activities, including hunting, keeping and grazing livestock, holding mass socio-political, cultural and other events within a five-kilometer strip of terrain, on islands or up to the boundary of engineering structures in cases where it is located outside the five-kilometer strip of terrain.

According to the current rules, climbing Belukha (Eastern Peak) is possible either “without reaching a hundred meters to the top” (this practice exists in some areas in the Caucasus, where access to the peaks of the mountain peaks is allowed with the mentioned wording), or if the event (for example, alpsboring) is successful format as " mass socio-political, cultural and other event within a five-kilometer strip of terrain". Climbing Western Belukha fits perfectly into the current rules for visiting the border zone.

The Lenalptours company (Vysotnik camp site), one of the operators of commercial mountaineering and tourism in Altai, tried during a live broadcast with the President of the Russian Federation V.V. Putin decided to ask the question: “Is it possible to climb Belukha without violating the rules established by the local border department of the FSB of Russia for the Altai Republic?” As a result, a reply was received from the Office of International Cooperation of the Federal Tourism Agency, which refers to the already expired order of the FSB of Russia dated June 16, 2006 No. 282 (we recall that in October 2012 order No. 515 was adopted, which canceled the previous ones).

Publishing this material on other resources is prohibited!

Dates: July 20 - August 5, 2018.
Type of tourism: mountain.
Difficulty category: the first with elements of the fourth.

Belukha is rightfully considered the King Mountain of Altai. She spread her wing-ridges over hundreds of kilometers. Belukha is visible from various peaks of the Altai Mountains, 100-200 km away! Climbing the Tsar Mountain Belukha is a mandatory item in the program of any person who considers himself a mountain climber. Any person who sees the beautiful mountain in a photo or painting dreams of being on top of Belukha. With us you can make your dream come true and climb the mountain.

While food and equipment are being transported on horseback to Lake Akkem, we cross the Karaturek Pass relatively lightly, thus acclimatizing. We distribute the products and move to the top. We conduct ice training under the mountain. We climb to the top and organize an assault camp. Early in the morning we set out to climb. We climb and contemplate the amazing landscapes from the highest mountain in Altai. We go down to the assault camp. We return to Lake Akkem and, if there is time left, rest and make radial exits into the surrounding gorges. We are returning home.

Program specifics: Belukha is a difficult, dangerous mountain that requires a focused climb with days to spare. She doesn't like it when people try to grab her. It is necessary to acclimatize well before the ascent and during the ascent do everything with concentration, slowly, leaving time to wait out bad weather.

Moreover, in our opinion, these mountains require a clear, focused state of mind, a kind of immersion in the area, which should be carried out gradually and with pleasure.

And then there is the greatest likelihood that the Belukhin event will remain in memory as something solid, beautiful with an even beginning, a brilliant middle and an even ending.

This is precisely the main quality of our program - a gradual approach to Mount Belukha, as a result of which the group receives excellent acclimatization. Join us!

Travel schedule:

20.07. Evening departure from Novosibirsk.

21.07. Arrival in the morning in the village. Tyungur. Preparing loads for horses. If desired, an acclimatization hike to one of the surrounding peaks.

22.07. With. Tungur - r. Kucherla - Elan tract - Kucherlinskaya site. From the village Tungur backpackers travel by car to the town of “Elan” (10-12 km), then the road ends, the group puts on backpacks and then walks 2-3 hours to the “Kucherlinskaya” parking lot.

23-24.07. R. Kucherla - per. Karaturek - Akkem Lake. Follow the path that leads to a wide gravelly ridge. Along it we go out to the Karaturek pass, from which a stunning panorama of the entire Belukhinsky massif opens, headed by the king-mountain Belukha Eastern. Visibility from the pass in good weather is tens of kilometers! Descent along the trail to Lake Akkem.

25.07. Preparing for the ascent. Radial acclimatization exit into one of the surrounding gorges.

26.07. lake Akkemsky - Akkemsky glacier - Tomsk sites. Transition in full gear (personal and public equipment, food, personal belongings) to a place called the Tomsk parking lot. These are platforms on a rocky hill in the middle of a glacier. They go to them first among grassy hills, then along rocky screes and then along an open (not covered with snow) glacier.

27.07. Tomsk parking lots. Day. Training. Training in ice climbing skills necessary to reach the top.

28.07. Tomsk parking lots - lane. Delaunay - Berelsky glacier - saddle of the Berelsky saddle pass. Climbing an ice slope 220 m long and 35-50 degrees steep. Then move together along the snow fields of the Mensu glacier to the wide snow camps “Berel Saddle”.

29.07. Climbing Belukha. Morning departure (2-3 am). Ascent along the fields of the Mensu glacier, then, depending on the snow and ice situation, the following options are possible:

ascent through the Belukhinsky pass (ice-snow slope with a steepness of 40-50 degrees, length 500 m),
snow pillows of the central slope (snow-ice slope 600 m long and 30-40 degrees steep),
rock-ice ridge of Berelsky (600 m, steepness - 40-50 degrees).

30.07. Saddle of the Big Berelskoe saddle pass - lane. Delone - Tomsk sites - lake. Akkemskoe.

31.07. Spare day. Allotted to wait out bad weather during the approach to the mountain and ascent. If we do not use it, then on this day we will have a radial exit into the surrounding gorges to choose from - Yarlu Gorge, Karaoyuk Gorge (Lake of Spirits), Seven Lakes Gorge.

1.08. Akkem Lake - r. Akkem (Terrace parking lot). Movement along the path.

2.08. R. Akkem (Terrace parking lot) - r. Akkem (“Three Birches” site). Movement along the path.

3.08. R. Akkem (site “Three Birches”) - lane. Kuzuyak - s. Tyungur. Movement along the trail and mountain road. If desired, backpacks can be sent by all-terrain vehicle (for a fee). Bathhouse.

4.08. Departure to Novosibirsk.

5.08. Arrival in Novosibirsk.

Included in the price:

moving "Novosibirsk - Tungur - Novosibirsk";
all permits for visiting the area;
rental of horses for public cargo and products;
food on the active part of the route;
accommodation in the village Tyungur;
washing in the bathhouse in the village. Tyungur (at the exit from the route);
public equipment (tents, boilers, burners, etc.);
public special equipment (ropes, ice screws, etc.);
satellite phone rental;
work of certified instructors-guides.

The price does not include:

accident insurance;
food on the way from Novosibirsk to Tyungur and back;
additional baths;
personal equipment (crampons, harness, etc.);
horses for the rider or for personal equipment.

Information on the active part of the route:

Required documents: Valid Russian passport, insurance.

Transport: Travel according to the program by bus and local transport.

Accommodation: On the route - in a tent. On arrival and departure - tents in a private courtyard. Tyungur. If necessary, a hotel in the village. Tungur for an additional fee.

Nutrition: Three meals a day on the route: hot food - in the morning and evening, at lunch - a snack with hot tea.

Insurance and medicine: The guide will have a first aid kit with basic medications. If you have any specific diseases, be sure to take your medications with you! It is recommended to have a small personal pharmacy, which may contain: bandages (2 pcs.), wide adhesive plaster, analgesics (analgin, Nise, Citramon), cold soother tablets (Strepsils, etc.), vitamins (ascorbic acid).

Weather: The weather in Altai is little predictable. There will be sun. It may rain below, snow above. In the snow-ice zone, temperatures can drop to -10-15°C.

Hygiene and medicine:

toilet paper;
wet wipes;
sunscreen + sunscreen lip cream;
toothbrush, toothpaste (a small tube or one for two or three to save weight), chewing gum (it is not always possible to brush your teeth, especially in a snowy and icy zone, and chewing gum will come in handy in this case);
soap (small piece);
personal first aid kit (see section “Insurance and Medicine”).

Cloth:

a set of “traveling” clothes (will remain in the village of Tyungur);
thermal underwear set;
down jacket;
windproof jacket and pants (Gortex, nylon);
rain cape (no need to take it if you have a membrane or waterproof jacket and pants);
Polartek/fleece jacket and pants;
lightweight trekking trousers (for the trekking part);
trekking T-shirt or shirt (for the trekking part);
warm trekking socks;
thin trekking socks (2 sets);
light gloves;
warm mittens;
polar/fleece hat;
cap or Panama hat;
T-shirt, long sleeve shirt (2 pcs.);
shorts;
flashlights (gaiters).

Shoes:

mountain boots;
trekking boots (you can use the same boots for both trekking and climbing);
trekking sandals for camp.

Special equipment:

telescopic poles;
Sunglasses;
safety system;
2-3 carbines;
helmet;
cats;
zhumar;
trigger device.

General camping equipment:

backpack 90-120 l;
rain cover for backpack;
polyurethane foam mat;
sleeping bag at -15-20°C + sleeping bag insert (optional);
headlamp + extra batteries;
personal utensils (KLMN - mug, spoon, bowl, knife);
thermos;
seat (hoba, “fifth point”, butt).

To keep things sealed, it is advisable to either have a moisture-resistant liner in your backpack or pack things in bags, such as garbage bags.