Old Sevastopol road. The Kalendskaya trail is an old Roman road in the Crimea. Why tourists visit the Roman Way

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The old Sevastopol highway is a rare example of a route for the Southern coast of Crimea, which turned out to be almost forgotten after a more convenient road appeared. As a rule, any path-tracks on the coast are still used, since it has been mastered quite thoroughly. But on the old Sevastopol highway, a car can be seen very rarely, since it passes far from the sea and does not lead to almost any object in demand.

Therefore, we suggest that you take a walk along it, which will be quite easy to do, using some of our tips.

First of all, you should think about the equipment. Pay special attention to shoes - the fact is that you will have to go not along dirt paths, but along an asphalt road. Therefore, instead of seemingly suggestive hard hiking boots, it is better to choose sneakers with a springy sole. As for the rest of the clothes, you will have to walk in a completely civilized area, so you don’t have to follow the militarized tourist dress code at all, although it will still not be very comfortable in an evening dress. Take something to drink with you (there will be no water for a very long stretch of the way) and a snack. In summer and winter, the track is of little interest, but in spring and autumn there will be something to see.

The old Sevastol road passes quite high above sea level. This is due to the fact that its builders could not solve two problems with the help of the technologies of their time, and therefore were forced to bypass them. The first is Mount Koshka above Simeiz. The builders of the new Sevastopol highway had to "break the spine of the animal", built of very durable limestone. A little further towards Sevastopol there is another mountain that stood in the way of road builders - the Dragon or Ai-Yuri. They did it “easier” with it - they broke through the only car tunnel on the southern coast of Crimea.

You can pass the old Sevastopol highway from two sides - from Alupka to Foros, or vice versa. Let's assume that we will start from Yalta, and therefore it would be logical to go from Foros to Alupka, that is, to the point of departure. So, we will need to get to the fork, where there is a turn to Foros.

However, we do not need him, but the road leading to the mountains to the Baydarsky Gate Pass.

Both branches are actually opposite each other, so you can go either by the Foros bus or the Sevastopol bus. Foros is the farthest village that is part of the so-called Big Yalta, and it is located directly from the city at a distance of 42 kilometers. It is interesting that Foros is closer to Sevastopol and some local residents prefer to look for work in the hero city. It will take about an hour to drive from Yalta, so we recommend leaving in the morning.

So, we reach the Foros fork and set off up the road to first look closely at one of the most famous Crimean churches - the Church of the Resurrection of Christ, located on a sheer Red Rock, which, by the way, celebrates its 120th anniversary on October 4, 2012. It was built at the expense of the Russian "tea king" Alexander Kuznetsov in honor of the miraculous rescue of the family of Alexander III in a train wreck. In Soviet times, the temple was used for industrial needs, including as a snack bar for tourists. Already under independent Ukraine, the fate of the unusual church was taken up by the then President Leonid Kuchma, and with his participation the church was restored, after which it became a very popular tourist and religious site. Often, it is she who is chosen by famous politicians or show business figures for a wedding. You will have to walk 4 kilometers along the road to it. True, initially the road makes a loop and, after walking 2 kilometers, you will be approximately above the point where you started your journey. However, we do not recommend looking for short paths, since these are still mountains and often they lead to very steep slopes.

The road to the temple, as it should be for any mountain road, is very winding. Therefore, during the famous Yalta Rally, one of the stages passes along the old Sevastopol highway.

The Church of the Resurrection of Christ offers a gorgeous view of Foros and the nearby mountains, although the temple itself looks no less impressive against the background of the coast, taken from the road above. In principle, it is not far from the church to the Baydarsky Gate Pass, and it is there that the old road to Sevastopol goes, but, having admired the sight, we’d better turn back, since the road will be very long.

Walking along the track is quite easy, since it very rarely goes uphill, and even then at a slight angle, but for the most part it is flat or slowly descends downhill. The first interesting object that you will meet on the way, or rather, it will be clearly visible from the road, will be the tunnel pierced by the builders of the new and existing Sevastopol route in Dragon Mountain.

It is small (about 50-70 meters), but not the most pleasant geological processes constantly occur around, and the walls of the tunnel began to collapse over time.

In recent years, traffic along it is one-way, that is, first cars go to Yalta, and then it is the turn of those who move in the opposite direction. In addition, anti-landslide work is constantly being carried out from Yalta. It was not possible to find out the exact date of its construction, but there is evidence that this happened in the early 70s of the last century. So, from about that time on, the old Sevastopol highway began to lose its strategic importance.

Going even further, we will find ourselves near one of the most ancient Crimean transport arteries - the road built by the ancient Romans through the Shaitan-Merdven pass, or the Devil's Stairs, connecting the southern coast of Crimea with the rest of it.

The "road" now looks more like a well-equipped trail and it's quite easy to follow. It is said that Alexander Sergeevich Pushkin personally overcame this pass, holding on to the donkey's tail.

In fact, even for younger students, there should be no problems in overcoming one of the lowest Crimean passes. The ascent takes about 20 minutes at most and the main thing is not to forget about shoes, although even in flip flops you can easily walk there. Again, there is evidence that during the visit to the Crimea of ​​the first famous tourist - Catherine II - they did not dare to lower the royal person to the South Bank, then practically wild and without roads. However, it was from this pass that the empress looked over the new Russian acquisitions and was generally satisfied. This protected object is a monument, so the entrance is paid, but you will be offered an excursion and, again, do not forget that you are still in the mountains, so an experienced guide will not be superfluous. However, it is better not to combine a walk along the highway and climbing Shaitan-Merdven, it is better to do it another time. By the way, rock climbers are happy to use the surrounding rocks for training, so do not be surprised if you see tiny figures of people hanging on ropes or walking along sheer cliffs.

Well, we're moving on. By the way, the reason why there are practically no cars on the highway will soon become clear. A few years ago, a large landslide descended on it, because of which it was not only dangerous to drive there, it was dangerous to walk. But now the road has been restored, but the danger of a landslide remains, so motorists do not favor this area.

And for us pedestrians, it's even better. On the way, we will meet two villages - Opolznevoye and Goluboy Zaliv, through which the highway passes through and outlived their best times even before the appearance of a new route. There are shops there and you can resupply water and food. In addition, you can leave from there by bus if your forces leave you or it becomes clear that you will not have time to go through all the highways. In addition, there are many branches leading from the old highway down to the new one, so that at any time you can interrupt your walk and return to civilization. As for the coast, during the journey we will pass immediately over several settlements, some of which are so small that it is difficult to distinguish them from a simple cluster of residential buildings. Also in this region there are several large boarding houses and sanatoriums, which are clearly visible from above. Some have retained the characteristic features of Soviet resort architecture, others have been modernized, and still others have been built from scratch in recent years.

Having passed the Blue Bay, we come to the "ridge" of Mount Cats.

Its upper part is still closed to the public and military facilities are located there. During the preparation of the lunar program, Sergei Korolev decided to test lunar rovers there, which caused damage to ancient burials, but scientific progress then did not take much into account with the past. That part of the mountain, which turned out to be below the new route, is the most popular place for visiting newlyweds, as well as an archaeological site. And you can also buy the famous "Yalta" sweet onion there, and it is the region of the Blue Bay, Oliva, Opolznevoy and Katsiveli that is most favorable for its growth. If you look from above, then to the right of the Cat there will be the village of Katsiveli with an Aquapark and a huge telescope (Crimean Observatory), and to the left - the village of Simeiz with the Diva rock standing in the sea and the most Mediterranean microclimate in the entire South Coast. From Simeiz, and, consequently, from the highway above it, the most famous Crimean mountain Ai-Petri, which is often mistakenly called the highest on the peninsula, is perfectly visible.

After winding down the slope of Koshka, we will reach the outskirts of Alupka and the intersection of two “generations” of the Sevastopol highway. By the way, in order to take a regular bus, you will have to walk about 100 meters back along the new highway. If you do not do this, then the next stop will be already in the Koreiz region after 10 kilometers. The fact is that buses just don’t stop on the highway, and you hardly want to have such a bonus to a walk along the old highway. By the way, let's count how many have passed. So, from the crossroads at Foros to the temple - 4 kilometers, another 2 - the way back to the crossroads, from which we leave towards the mountains, and from it to Alupka - 22 kilometers. Total - 28 kilometers. That is why it is better not to be distracted by hiking around Shaitan-Merdven, and without it you will see a lot of interesting things.

Our today's route will pass along the one and only - the Old Sevastopol road, but will not cover its entire length, but will conclude its segment, which is quite capable of being overcome in six to seven hours, given that the road will be flat, paved and without climbs. We will climb from Foros to the Baydar Gates, then, after returning a little, we will go east along the highway. Before our eyes, such settlements as Foros, Mellas, Kastropol, Parkovoe, Ponizovka, Katsiveli will float, and we will pass directly through the Opolznevoe and the Blue Bay. From the last settlement, we will descend to the new Yalta - Sevastopol highway (South Coast Highway).

There are many options for starting the journey along the Old Sevastopol Road. I suggest starting with Foros for two reasons. First, a flat paved road that will take you up to the highway. Secondly, its most beautiful sections are from Foros to the village of Blue Bay, then the highway dives into Alupka. Thus, you have the opportunity to see this incomparable charm of the site.

Route map:

So, let's begin. It will not be difficult to get to Foros, more precisely, to a stop on the main highway. It will not make it difficult to find the road that rises from it up to the church. The road is smooth, without sharp rises.

After making a big loop to the east, it will soon turn to the west. The road passes very close to the rocks which are impressive.

Foros remained below, it is clearly visible from everywhere.

Soon we will see the Foros Church, but we will go into it on the way back from the Baydar Pass.

View of the Foros Church from
Old Sevastopol road

near Foros church

And until the last go quite a bit. You will not miss this famous pass, because it is crowned with the no less famous Baidar Gates. This monument was built by the Yalta architect Karl Ashliman at the end of the construction of the Sevastopol-Yalta highway, which lasted from 1837 to 1848 by order of the then Governor-General of the Taurida province, and hence the Crimea, including Vorontsov. The columns on the side of the portico facing the sea make it possible to call this structure propylaea, the most famous examples of which can be found in ancient Greek architecture. When you pass the Baydar Gates, lines from Mayakovsky's poem "Sevastopol - Yalta" come to mind:

And suddenly you get drunk
bay love
and soul
and body
and mouth.

So at once
get up
clouds and bay
in the gap
Baydarsky gate.

And immediately
road
boring and boring
into the tunnel
pushing the brakes.

Here is a pile of stone
and the church above it -
horror
all marriages.

And again
almost
about cheekbone rocks,
from the sides
looks white.

Outside the gate is a small market with souvenirs and provisions. You can climb directly to the Baydar gates, there is an observation deck from where a panorama of the Baydar valley and the village of Foros opens. By the way, the height of this place is 503 meters above sea level according to some sources, according to others - 527. Nearby is the famous restaurant "Shalash", before the revolution there was a hotel and a guard station. The pass is surrounded on all sides by forest.

Monument of architecture Baidar gates
on the Baydar pass
View from Mount Foros
to Baydarsky pass

From the Baydar Pass we return to the Foros Church. You can visit it or sit in the shade on the territory. You can also buy provisions at the kiosks in front of the church.

The road goes on, making one loop, to the east. You are walking in palpable proximity to the rising walls of mountains. And so it will be until the Shaitan-Merdven pass, after which the road will gradually recede from the mountain range.

While still at the level of the village Mellas, you will notice the most beautiful peak of these places Merdven-Kayasy. Just in front of it is the famous Shaitan-Merdven pass.

The highway will come closest to the mountains near the place where the paved road from Oliva joins it. On this road, you can comfortably go down to the new highway (South Coast highway) if necessary.

The road from Oliva joins
to the Old Sevastopol road
Old Sevastopol road
in the Oliva area

We continue on our way. After about a kilometer from the fork, you will see a wooden entrance to the pass. If you decide to climb it, Shaitan-Merdven will reward you with beautiful views, among other things, the Old Sevastopol Road will be visible from it. Moreover, the rise will not take more than half an hour.

The old Sevastopol road is approaching
to Shaitan-Merdven pass
View of the Old Sevastopol road
from the Shaitan-Merdven pass

A surprise will look like a doorway under a rock, apparently for technical purposes, a pleasant surprise - the decoration of the side of the highway.

Technical room under the rock on
Old Sevastopol road

near Foros

The forest will part after a while, the road will become open, the mountains still float along our route. No, you can't cover your camera.

On the old Sevastopol road
in the Shaitan-Merdven area
Old Sevastopol road
near Castropol

On the section of the road between Castropol and Opolznev traces of collapses are visible. This is especially striking in the area of ​​​​the village of Parkovoe. The largest rockfall, which left behind a bad memory and made a generation of local residents more careful, occurred at the end of the 18th century. Then the village, still bearing the name Kuchuk-Koy, along with its neighbor Kikineiz (now Opolznevoe), was badly damaged by a giant landslide. From now on, the main part of the Park is below. The earthquake of 1927 also contributed to the formation of stone heaps along the road. Above Parkovo, these heaps are especially large, their collective name is Kuchuk-Koysky stone chaos.

Landslide area
in the Park area
Old Sevastopol road
in the Park area

Sometimes, walking along the Old Sevastopol Highway, you will find a recess in the rather smooth surface of the roadway, clearly left by a fallen stone, or even a whole boulder that has rolled down from the mountain slope.

And the Park slopes above the road have recently been well reinforced.

The open area allows you to view the surroundings without interference. As you can see in the palm of your hand, Parkovoye or, as it is also called, Beregovoe (it was Beregovoye that was attached to the urban-type settlement Parkovoe in the 70s of the last century). By the way, in the Parkovoe area there are two descents from the highway, the first to Kastropol, the second - to Parkovoe itself.

From the last turn to Opolznevoy less than an hour's walk. Before reaching the village, you can see a path that goes up sharply. It will lead to the Kerezla tourist route, which takes those who wish to the Ai-Petrinsky Yayla in the region of Mount Morcheka. We are entering the village.

Part of it is located above, part is below the track, and the third part is generally half an hour's walk to the east. The village is quite quiet, there is a store where you can replenish your supplies, they always sell good Yalta onions here. From the eastern edge of the village, a path leaves through the vineyards to the Biyuk-Isar mountain, from which the Eski-Bogaz trail begins, leading to the yaila. Pushkin and Griboyedov mentioned Opolznevo in their diaries, and no wonder, because there was a pit station where they changed horses before crossing the Shaitan-Merdven - before the earthquake it was quite passable for both people and animals.

In the area of ​​the Baydar Pass and the Foros Church, you will surely be confused by the abundance of transport moving in both directions. However, they use the road to Foros for the descent, and do not go further along the old highway. On the section from Foros to Opolznevoy, you run the risk of not seeing cars at all. And it's very nice. A deserted and open area, civilization seems to be not far away, but not a sound penetrates the domain of the old highway. In the area of ​​Opolznevoye, a car can be found a little more often. The thing is that this village, like the Blue Bay, is fed from this transport artery. Perhaps that is why they are so quiet and comfortable.

"Off-road for the mass consumer" - this is how you can call the road along which we went to the fifth base camp. From there we will go to the Demerzhdzhi ghost valley, and then, along the old Bakhchisaray road to Kuibyshevo, having previously stopped at Mount Ai-Petri. In general, we are delving into the central part of the Crimean peninsula. The most famous sights of the peninsula are left behind, wild Crimea is waiting ahead.

2. The search for a clearing for the fifth camp led us to a place where "adventurers" are brought on jeep tours, ride on prepared UAZs. They shake well while driving over stones, so that everyone who buys a ticket for a GIP safari realizes what "Crimean off-road" is, and understands that it was not in vain that they paid money for the adrenaline received.

3. So. Under the gloomy glances of the uazovods who earn money by delivering tourists to the Dzhur-Dzhur waterfall, we entered in Khapkhal gorge . We drove slowly, photographed the beauty, drove around the stones, until we were caught up with a "charged" UAZ - full of tourists. Caught up, buzzedto the delight of touristsus in the back, and went to the waterfall.

4. In the meantime, we found a beautiful clearing for the fifth camp ( 44.80506; 34.46464 ), between two plateaus - Demerdzhi and Karabi-Yayla.

By the way, this is the only place very close to the waterfall where you can camp with a tent. Plus, there is a source of fresh water nearby.

5. Beautiful views of the border of the Demerdzhi plateau open up from the glade.

6. And to the border of the Karabi-Yayla plateau. There are most likely cosmic views on Karabi now, and zero visibility - because of this, cosmic views open from the side. Actually, we are on our way to Karabi.

7. As for the Dzhur-Dzhur waterfall, according to Wikipedia, this is the most powerful waterfall in Crimea: its average water flow is 270 liters per second.

There is not much more to say about the waterfall, except that a tick stuck to the driver of the field here. The latter, during bathing procedures, was creakingly removed from Seryoga's body. Then we went to the valley of ghosts Demerdzhi.

8. In general, thanks to landscape photographers, I associated the Demerdzhi ghost valley with wild horses in the frame, against the backdrop of beautiful mountains. And all the way, while driving to the valley of ghosts, somewhere deep in my soul I was worried - "What kind of photographer will I be if I don't bring a frame of horses against the background of Demerdzhi" (sarcasm). And here she is luck.

Photograph equids against the background of foggy Demerdzhi - done.

9. Most likely, such activity of a small but proud donkey is explained by what he sees around.

10. Yes, even in such quantities.

11. And yet, while we were driving to the valley, I noticed how the crew on the MPS sat on our tail. Later it turned out that they were also from Moscow, they came to look for adventures on the fifth point. And the first question they asked me was “Damn, where can I get stuck here? We were told we won’t pass Demerdzhi for sure, we followed you in the hope of getting stuck together - we didn’t get stuck ...”.

He suggested that they break through to the Dzhurla tract. =) After that, just in case, they switched to the same wavelength with our walkie-talkies, and left somewhere. We never heard them on the radio again.

12. "For the best places on this planet." Naturally, we are talking about NIVA 4 * 4. See? And she is.

13. We didn’t stay long at Demerdzhi, or rather a squally wind with snow forced us to go further. Bypassing the coastal towns, we set off to the most beautiful road in Crimea.

14. Old Bakhchisarai road. Despite the fact that on the map this road looks like a minor one, and signs are hanging before entering the pass - "the pass is closed", every car traveler who has been in the Crimea should see this road with his own eyes.

15. The road is narrow in places. Mountain on the left, cliff on the right.

16. Dozens of sharp turns, due to which oncoming cars take off from time to time. And suddenly a field, with snow on the bumper. =o

On the street + 15.

17. At an altitude of 800 meters, there is more snow, crazy views open up. We have to create emergency situations, stopping at the pass in order to take a picture.

18. Turn 180 degrees, 300 meters and turn again, and again, and again turn 180 ...

19. Simply put, the entire pass is turns. And a long climb to a height of 1000 meters.

20. And the higher - the more snow.

21. And even more desire to stop and take pictures of the beauty around.

22. Intermediate finish. Ascent behind, ahead of no less spectacular descent.

23. But first, let's take a ride to Ai-Petri.

24. Here is Ai-Petri, or rather a fragment of it. By the way, the height of Ai-Petri is 1234 meters. 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 meters, very easy to remember.

25. From the mountain you can see the "toy" Yalta, and a huge cloud on the horizon, which in 30 minutes will reach us and change the landscape around beyond recognition. If you don't believe me, scroll down.

26. Yalta - like the Crimea is diverse. For example, five-star hotels.

27. Boarding houses of the times of the USSR, some of which have long been abandoned.

28. Private sector.

29. The epic coming of that same cloud from the Black Sea. The difference with the previous frame is several minutes.

30. General plan - for clarity.
How impressive it looks live - do not convey.

31. And a landscape that has changed beyond recognition.

32. After 15 minutes, the sun again.

33. And down the old Bakhchisaray road. Again, dizzying turns, crazy views around, cliffs ...

34. And a beech forest. Generally, beech grows in the mountains - at an altitude of up to 2300 m above sea level. Therefore, this area of ​​beech forest is unique.

35. Ordinary forest.

36. Landscape typical of the old Bakhchisaray road.

37. And the Great Crimean Canyon. Which we didn't get to see. More precisely, we walked literally a kilometer, and realizing that until it got dark we had to find a place for the camp - we drove on.

39. As a result, it took us 8 hours to drive about 70 kilometers!

40. By sunset, they found a beautiful path leading into a dense forest.

41. Where they set up camp 5.

42. Perhaps next time I'll start with the coordinates of the fifth camp.

“... The road winds for three miles in whimsical bends and turns through the lands of the Foros estate and disappears into the tunnel. Despite the apparent steepness, the descent is completely safe and extremely attractive ... " 1913 Grigory Moskvich in his Guide to the Crimea.

The road issue has always been in the Crimea - the way to the sea was dangerous and difficult. This was especially true of its southern part, separated by a mountain range. After the accession of Taurida to the Russian Empire, following the example of the Empress, travelers often came here. In 1787, Catherine II herself did not visit the South Coast, but could only admire from the pass the sea stretching below and the winding coast going east, because the road laid for her journey ended at Baidary. The further path ran through the difficult and steep pass Shaitan-Merdven (Devil's Stairs), only an experienced traveler could overcome it, either on foot or on horseback.

The absence of roads for a long time hindered the development and development of the Crimea. Even the first governors, the Duke de Richelieu and Lieutenant General A. Borozdin-Tavrichesky, had to build their dachas for more than three years. Count M. Vorontsov, who began the construction of a palace in Alupka, also faced the same problem. Only after the acquisition by Emperor Alexander I, admiring the beauty of the South Coast, of the estate in Nizhnyaya Oreanda, did the greatest instruction to the Main Directorate of Railways follow to connect Simferopol, Yalta and Sevastopol by a highway.

The development of the project and its leadership were entrusted to Lieutenant General Betancourt, one of the organizers of the transport system in Russia. In 1824, according to the approved plan, with the active participation of the Governor-General Vorontsov, the construction of the highway began with the forces of the soldiers of the Kozlovsky and Nashembursky regiments and the battalion of the 40th Jaeger Regiment. In Crimea, all work was supervised by corps engineer-colonel P.V. Shipilov (until his death in 1834). The construction was completed by his assistant - engineer-captain Slavich, who received the rank of engineer-colonel after the end of the segment Sevastopol - Baidar Gates in 1848.

The road was built in several stages. The Simferopol-Alushta section was completed first in 1826. Then there was a long break due to lack of funds, and only in 1832, with the personal participation of Count Vorontsov, the construction of the section connecting Alushta and Yalta continued. In parallel, work was going on on the other side - from Sevastopol to Yalta.

Builders lived - soldiers, civilians, prisoners, convicts - in temporary houses along the road under construction. Through their efforts, more than a dozen stone blockages have been cleared, kilometers of retaining walls and many bridges have been built. In 1835, Captain Albrandt arrived to help Major Slavich, who was in charge of the work on the spot, and in 1842 their company was strengthened by Captain Frembter. It was thanks to the skill and professionalism of these people that the construction of the southern coast road was successfully completed.

Instead of five years, during which it was planned to complete the Simferopol-Yalta-Sevastopol highway, it took more than 20 years. In 1848, in honor of the completion of work on the Baydar Pass, propylaea gates were erected (architect K. I. Ashliman).

“Following the Baydarsky Gate, the crew completely imperceptibly rises to a height of 1631 feet. above sea level and ... stops at the station. “Baidar Gates”: a tourist takes a few steps to the stone gates, behind which suddenly, as if by magic, a magnificent panorama of the South Coast opens before him, lying below, as it were, in a deep abyss, by the boundless sea ”(Grigory Moskvich “Guide to the Crimea”, 1913).