Climbing Ama Dablam. Climbing the most beautiful peak of Nepal - Ama Dablam (6856m). Nepal. (With local guides). Individual special equipment for climbing

Note:
*The table shows the basic cost for a group of 4 people. Calculation of the cost of the tour for a smaller number of people and individual groups, see the details in the "Price and Service" tab.
**We guarantee that on the dates indicated in the table, even if there are 2 people in the group, the tour will take place 100% with a minimum change in cost.

You can only take part in the first part of the program - climbing Island Peak

Participate for less!
We have a very flexible system of discounts and bonuses, find out how to go hiking cheaper and save from 5% on travel costs:

Why would you like to go camping with us?

What is the minimum experience:
The program is recommended for those who have experience of previous ascents in the mountains Elbrus or Kazbek, as well as technical ascents of ascents 3A-4A k.tr. Also, for a guaranteed successful ascent, we recommend going through the Mountaineering School in Crimea, climbing the Matterhorn and Lenin Peak. or other similar programs to get a good experience with rope and belay on rocky terrain.

Restrictions and special conditions:
List of diseases, with insufficient physical, technical, moral and psychological preparation for your safety and other participants, the guide has the right to refuse the final ascent of Ama Dablam, without compensation for the cost of the tour and other costs.

Documents and visa:
International passport
Climbing permit (we issue it)
A visa is issued upon arrival at the airport, costs 40 USD,
Availability of insurance in case of emergency and medical support is mandatory for the entire period of the program for climbers (can issue an "Extreme Guide" for citizens of any country).

Payment:
Before the start of the tour, you make an advance payment of 30%, the rest either before the start of the tour or directly on the spot to the guide:

Nutrition:
For the period of stay in the city, self-catering in the camping cafe, in the loggias you can also order food of your choice (on average, a meal day on the trek part is 20-25 USD). For the period of the autonomous climbing program, hiking, high-altitude meals: breakfast porridge: buckwheat, oatmeal, rice + dessert, lunch sandwiches with tea, dinner - soup, tea + dessert, cheese, sausage, lard is a must!!! During the ascent, in high-altitude camps, participants prepare on their own.

Transport:
Chartered minibus or taxi in Kathmandu, internal flight is carried out by 18-seater aircraft.

Accommodations:
Hotel 3 *** (guest houses with similar service), on the track in comfortable loggias with the best panoramic view of the Himalayas. On the ascent accommodation in tents 2-3 people.

Guides:
The group is accompanied by an experienced guide of our team. 1 guide works with the group for a group of 3 people. and 2 guides (local Sherpa) if the group is more than 4 people. during the ascent to Lobuche 9-11 days and Ama Dablam 15-19 days

Weather:
Up to +30ºС in the valleys, in the highlands above 6000 m up to -20ºС

Medicine:
At the exits, the first-aid kit is at the guide. Almost everywhere you can contact the rescuers by phone. You need to have individual medications. It is also mandatory to undergo a medical examination before the start of the trip.

Safety:
This program is potentially dangerous to the health and life of any of the participants.
Guides provide the necessary safety, provided that the participants comply with safety regulations.
The decision to stop the ascent in conditions that threaten the safety of the participants is in the exclusive competence of the guide and is not subject to discussion.

Ivanchenko Oleg- Creator of the ExtremeGuide adventure team, mountain guide. the city of Odessa

Specialization: Hiking, climbing, rock climbing, skiing and ski touring, kayaking

Sports experience: in tourism since 2002, CCM for mountain tourism.

Trainee guide in the International Association of Mountain Guides of Kyrgyzstan (KMGA), mountain tourism instructor since 2006, mountaineering experience since 2008, work as a guide since 2008. Made 20 ascents of Elbrus.

Main

• Trunk bag 80-10 l. (porters will carry)
• Backpack assault, climbing 30-40 l.
• Comfort sleeping bag -10°…-15° С
• Rug (can be inflatable), R-value not lower than 3.5

Shoes and clothes

• Climbing boots, two-layer (for example, La Sportiva Spantik, G2 SM or Milet Shiva)
• Trekking sneakers/boots (for acclimatization);
• Removable shoes for the shower (sandals or slates);
• Downy sweater or light warm jacket;
• Puff or warm jacket (minimum temperature -20 ... -25 on the night of climbing);
• The hat is warm;
• Running pants (can be membrane or Soft shell);
• Lightweight trousers for valley trekking;
• Warm pants (down, primaloft);
• Running jacket, windproof (Gore-tex, membrane);
• Thermal underwear (a set of running thermal underwear and separately for sleeping);
• Warm running jacket (polar, fleece);
• Socks of at least 5 pairs (“thermosocks”);
• Down socks (down, primaloft), for high-altitude overnight stays;
• Mittens (down or primaloft);
• Warm fleece gloves;
• Gloves are thin, you can knit (for transitions along the valley, UV protection);
• Verkhonki;
• T-shirt 2 pcs;
• Shorts for the city;
• Change of underwear;
• sun hat;
• Balaclava;
• buff thin

Rest

• Cape on the assault backpack;
• Mug, spoon, bowl, knife (all this should be as light as possible - made of stainless steel or special plastic; you should not take ceramic mugs and enameled dishes);
• Headlamp + set of batteries;
• Hygiene items (a toothbrush and a small tube of paste, a bar of soap and a little shampoo will be enough; you should not take full bottles of shower gel and shampoo, heaps of creams and lotions with you);
• shower towel
• Documents (foreign passport, insurance);
• Ind. first-aid kit (plaster, colds, stomach, head. You also need to take into account specific and chronic diseases, if any. In addition to an individual first-aid kit, the guide has a public one);
• Climbing goggles (protection category 3-4);
• Powerbank 10000mA or more
• Charger
• Lipstick hygienic;
• Sunscreen ointment;
• Water tank (1 l.);
• Thermos (0.5 - 1.0 liters)*;
• Matches + a piece of dry fuel in a sealed package *;
• Camera*;
• Seat (under the ass);
• Work gloves, leather for working with a rope;
• Trekking poles*;

Special equipment

• Trekking poles.
• Cats, maybe 10 teeth
• Climbing system
• Carabiner - 5 pcs (necessarily 3 large ones);
• 2 self-insurance mustaches;
• climbing helmet
• Zhumar - 1 pc.
• Reverso descender
• Prusik - rope 6 mm, 2 m
• Ice drill - 1 pc.
• Ice ax classic - 1 pc.

* marked equipment and things that are not required, but we recommend taking.

- Nepal ... What kind of resort is this?
You can't swim, you can't sunbathe.
What is the meaning of such a holiday ....
- No, you can go once.
(From a conversation between a casual acquaintance and the climber's wife).

And I just love Nepal, I feel good there, it's close to me.

I first went there in the fall of 1990. as part of the last Soviet Himalayan expedition to the South Face of Lhotse. The ascent was organized in the classical Himalayan style. We worked in several groups. Mikhail Turkevich was the leader of our group. In short, I'm proud of it. Very…
For two months, working up and down on the wall, we admired, saw, did not notice, the most beautiful peak - Ama Dablam.

But up to this point (I certainly mean the top) it was necessary to reach. I recently counted that I sent a total of 21 e-mails to Nepal, with the main idea - organize the ascent as cheaply as possible for poor Ukrainian students, they have nothing but fat, and you won’t be fat ... But the funny thing is that something like this it came out. In one of our two bundles, lard turned out to be the main product. Well, in general, we agreed with the Nepalese ...

How do we usually look for money for expeditions, this is a topic for a separate, not very free seminar (somewhere you have to take money for further expeditions). But in the end, most of the money was given to us by the Department of Youth and Sports of the Dnepropetrovsk Regional State Administration.

In addition to being very grateful, this is also a good symptom - if the local administration gives money for a non-Olympic sport, then all is not lost. Since the money was completely lacking, there was immediately some division of the candidates. The range was from those who said that they would quit their job, they would lend money, but if there was not enough money, they would sell everything, but they would not miss the chance to go to the Himalayas. Until those who said that this is a problem, add your money, because. there is nowhere to take them and in general, is it necessary to spend such money. In general, the team with "burning eyes" gathered. And it’s probably even good that we didn’t manage to find all the money ...

More about the team. If you start with more, then of course Sergei Goncharov. He was our finance minister. With a height of about two meters, an athletic figure and the grace of a former boxer, he very convincingly asked the one and a half meter Nepalese about their “last price” and they understood that the price could really be the last.

At the height, when everyone didn’t even want to think about food, Sergey lustfully decided which of the four types of soups he would cook for himself.

Masha Khitrikova. Born in 1990 when dad passed a not weak selection for the All-Union expedition to Lhotse - 50 masters of sports no older than 36 years old with experience of at least three seven-thousanders ran along Elbrus in winter for a while. And my mother, Lena Khitrikova, in the All-Union rating of 1989 took third place after passing two seven-thousanders, Chatyn and several more 5-B. In short, Masha is the fruit of selection. At the age of 16, I climbed Lenin Peak, as they say in the "alpine style", very back - I did not want to go forward. Favorite pastime is to make “pistols”, for a bet who is bigger, for dessert.

Sergei Goncharov

Masha Khitrikova

Vitalik Nesterchuk. Character - "Nordic, aged".

Professional athlete - graduated from the Institute of Physical Education, currently works in the climbing equipment store "Ascension". The owner of the store was convinced that a great climber is not a problem, but a rare success (I confess, I took a sin on my soul), and if he himself stopped going to the mountains, then it is simply necessary for the image of the store, etc. and so on.

Alexander Turtukov- coach, instructor A very strong athlete, he also had the imprudence to go to Nepal with his daughter, but instead of driving her in front of him, at the same time looking after him, he showed softness characteristic of almost all dads - he left her in the last loggia. Anya provided us with radio communication, for which we are very grateful to her. But Sasha was exhausted, how she was alone there, with these constantly changing foreign groups. From the base camp, he even once again ran downstairs so that Ani would not be bored (naive).

Of course, it all ended with the fact that during the ascent, in the area of ​​​​the third camp, Sasha realized that his heart hurts and if, well, right now, he doesn’t start going down to the loggia, he won’t have time by evening. And he rushed and managed, passing that day a very large piece of the route. And his heart was at peace. Vladimir Khitrikov- a coach, a leader, an inspirer, a money earner, partly even a father. According to mountaineering experience, practically - "Koschei the Immortal". He was everywhere, knows everything and still somehow walks. The main characteristic is “does not drink and is not sick”, I will not quote folk wisdom, suddenly someone does not know.

ascent. It probably makes no sense to describe in detail the road under the route.

Well, thanks to Larisa Gerasimova, we bought the cheapest tickets through Pakistan, well, we ate crabs there as much as we could. So after a dozen large ocean crabs, according to Vitalik, the cake is still better. Departed October 15 from Kyiv, we 23rd were in Pangboche at an altitude of 3900m and on the same day in the evening climbed to base camp 4500m where we spent the night.

24th climbed up to 5000m and descended again to base camp. 25th went out to Advanced base camp at an altitude of 5300 and 26th V Camp 1 at 5630m.

Now a few words about New Himalayan Mountaineering. Nepal is a small poor country with a rather enterprising population, who suddenly got lucky - rich foreigners go and go and are ready to leave quite a lot of money in Nepal. Here are the hardworking Nepalese and did their best. We hung all popular routes, set up tents in all intermediate camps. Pay and enjoy. I am a weak and not too principled person - well, I can’t help but use the rope if it is hung on the route. And of course there is no single answer for good or bad. Everything is in balance as always. If you treat the route as a training one, then this is at least tolerable. And security, again, increases many times over. True, mountaineering remains the same number of times less, but this is a matter of taste. In short, very convenient, but a little embarrassing.

Speaking of security. All conversations with the Nepalese on the topic “what if” came down to the fact that hire a high-altitude Sherpa and he “if anything” will save you. Instructor! From this moment on, carefully - the cost of a high-altitude Sherpa for climbing Ama Dablam along the classic route is $ 1100. This is for one client. Do not Cry.
Well, we work in the Caucasus with departments for a cup of rice and an idea, but the Nepalese have large families, and very small houses. And we have girls, how pretty, again in the field of ballet ...

Eh ... In short, we gathered in the evening in Camp 1 and began to discuss future plans. Acclimatization was clearly insufficient - everyone slept badly. It turned out that three of the five were ready to try to go further tomorrow.

Camp 1

And the two of you, it's better to go downstairs to rest. Because in both groups there was an instructor, then a very correct alternate version with a safety net could have developed. But in the morning it turned out that only I managed to sleep. And that's because after the plentiful evening tea drinking, I had to leave the tent at night. I stood on a flat slab, the size of a very large snowboard, and everything seemed to start well. But suddenly the plate "went". I would not like to focus on the details, but at that moment I turned out to be that snowboarder. The overnight stays are located on a steep section of the ridge, but after a little ride, I managed to jump off. True, he alarmed everyone and suffered fear himself. I climbed into the tent angry, frightened and barely holding back laughter. In general, I quarreled to myself, giggling for about 15 minutes, and then I open my eyes - morning. I start asking people - no one really slept. Heads hurt. In short, everything is down. In two hours we descended to the base camp and in another hour and a half we were in Pangboche. We spent three nights there in the loggia. We slept pretty well last night.

Approach to Camp 3

Exit to the top

Vertex

From Camps 2 we left at 4:30 1 - November th, around 12-00 were on top and by 16-00 went down to Camp 2. The weather was clear, but a strong wind was blowing, which prevented the rest of the groups from leaving. So we are on this day, above Camps 3, on the Mountain we were alone. Those. no one bothered us during the ascent or descent. But the downside is cold and wind. From the pillow on which it is located Camp 3, to the top of the icefall, it literally blew us off the slope. There would be some more “heroics” to add, but, alas ... Above the icefall, in general, life began. The wind has decreased a little, the sun is shining, the railings are hanging, the steps are broken and there is no one but us. I took ten steps, stopped five breaths - exhalations and further, and again ten steps. In general, only you, the Mountain, and your “inner voice”, which asks you all sorts of malicious questions. But I have known for years that he himself is a fool. After several hours of such steps, we reached the summit. The inner voice, of course, shut up, and we tried to penetrate the idea that we are on top of the Most Beautiful Mountain in the World. And if there was an element of subjectivity in this, then at that moment we had the right to it. The view from the top was wonderful, and the view of the South Face of Lhotse is probably the best. Well, if you ignore high thoughts and look only at your feet, then the top is a snowy area, unexpectedly quite large - 20-30 meters in diameter and even. After about 15 minutes, having taken plenty of pictures, we began to descend along the ascent path, towards Camps 3.

South face of Lhotse and Everest

Speaking of Camp 3.A year before our ascent, on the night of November 13-14, 2006. Camp 3 was demolished by a giant serrac, which broke away from the icefall hanging above it. 6 people died. In 2007 Nepalese again installed it there - the same. Their motives are understandable. It is difficult to gain 1100m of altitude on this relief in one day without decent preparation and go down.

And for some customers, it's just not realistic. And these are losses. Perhaps, however, they use it exclusively for medicinal purposes. Just imagine - a height of 6230m, night, a tent and a deafening crack of a giant icefall above your head. Well, what can you think of better, from chronic constipation. But for me personally, on the pillow where it is installed Camp 3 I didn't even want to stop. If we go back to the topic of therapeutic goals, then I personally regard my mountaineering in recent years (Chegem 2005, Lenina 2006, Ama Dablam 2007) as a good fitness program. Indeed, many articles have been written about the benefits of physical exercise in hypoxia. From my own experience, I can say that the weight decreases, the joints stop cracking and hurting, and in general, health problems fade into the background. So, dear veterans, stop complaining about life, take young people and start taking them to the mountains. Firstly, everything will work out for you, and secondly, if not us, then who? And if you think that now there are enough qualified instructors, then go to the training camp. You'll like it "…
As I already wrote, by 16-00 we went down to Camp 2, and then it turned out that there were no free sites. I had to tinker with setting up the tent. But trying to sleep, we started early. I slept pretty well, and when I woke up not too early in the morning, I watched the group walking along the summit ridge right through the window of the tent. And you know, it turns out to be very pleasant, lying in a warm sleeping bag, watching people who work on the route you walked yesterday. But all good things come to an end someday. Therefore, we had to pack up, load everything that we carried and descend. In a couple of hours we went down to Camp 1, there they still loaded up the left things and in the evening went down to Pangboche. There, a cake was waiting for us, our friends, and personally for me (experience is a great thing) my wife was already waiting there. But that's a completely different story...

Duration: 28 days

Kilometer: 120 km

Altitude difficulty: 7 out of 10

Technical difficulty: 7 out of 10

Meeting point: Kathmandu

Finish Location: Kathmandu

Thread: Kathmandu - Lukla - Namche Bazaar - Dingboche - BL Island Peak - Island Peak (6,189m) - Chukung - BL Ama Dablam - Ama Dablam (6,856m) - Tjangboche - Namche - Lukla - Kathmandu

Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful peaks on the planet! A visiting card of the Khumbu Valley and the whole of Nepal, a “must do” for anyone who is seriously into climbing. Ama Dablam is a dream peak, as beautiful as it is complex. This is a real challenge, which only the strongest and most experienced can do.

To acclimatize before such a serious peak, we will climb the most popular Nepalese six-thousander - Island Peak (6,189 m). It also has some technical complexity, which will allow you not only to adapt to the height, but also to further develop your skills in working with special equipment.

Our path will partially pass along one of the most famous and popular tracks in Nepal, to. From the village of Dingboche, overlooking the 8000-nick Lhotse, we will go to BL Island Peak. After climbing the Island, we will relocate to the Ama Dablam base camp and, with good acclimatization, we will go to the main ascent.

We will climb (try to) two six-thousanders in one program. This is a valuable experience and a good addition to your climbing history.

Climbing Ama Dablam- this is a very serious test even for skilled climbers. Mandatory experience of peaks over 6000 meters (Mera peak, Aconcagua) or Elbrus / Kazbek / Mont Blanc in the off-season or winter. The experience of technically difficult peaks, such as the Matterhorn, is highly desirable. You will need excellent coordination, skills of moving along the railing, working with a jumar and a descender. Our guides will definitely instruct, check and help improve your skills.

The group is led by at least 2 Couloir guides. An experienced Nepalese Sherpa guide, a climber of many eight-thousanders and several porter Sherpas will definitely work with the group.

IMPORTANT! You can only join a group to climb Island Peak. Cost: $1480, dates: 10/26-11/13/2018

• The main climbing guide is, “Golden Ice Ax”, the world champion in the high-altitude class, which has more than 100 peaks of varying complexity and height. There will also be a second Couloir guide and a Nepalese Sherpa guide, climber of many eight-thousanders.
• Climbing Guaranteed. It is very important for us that, having gone to the mountain with us once, the next time you are no longer looking for someone to go with. We will do our best to ensure that the ascent takes place and that all participants ascend and descend safely from the summit. But if for any reason the ascent fails, we will refund 15% of the cost of participation to your balance in favor of any future ascents of the Couloir during the calendar year.
• You will get not only impressions, but also acquire new skills and abilities in mountaineering. The task of the guide is not just to take the participant to the mountain, but also to train and prepare for more difficult climbs.
• Well-thought-out program with excellent acclimatization and gradual increase in difficulty. In case of bad weather, we have laid down two reserve days, between ascents there is a mandatory day of rest in the green zone.
• (6 189 m) - the most popular Nepalese trekking peak, where you can additionally practice moving along the railings and snow-ice slopes, get the necessary acclimatization.
• Climbing Ama Dablam (6814 m), one of the most beautiful and difficult peaks of Nepal, along the classic route

The cost of climbing Ama Dablam is 4,270 .

• Included in the price:
• Services of the main Russian-speaking guide
• Guide assistant services
• Accompaniment of an experienced Russian-speaking guide throughout the route
• Accommodation in hotels in Kathmandu (4 nights)
• Accommodation in lodges along the route
• Accommodation in a tent camp during the ascents
• Team of Porters for Carrying Public Equipment
• Individual meeting at the airport
• Partial meals - breakfasts in Kathmandu, breakfast and dinner in tent camps on the ascent
• Permit to climb Ama Dablam
• Permit to climb Island Peak
• TIMS and permit to enter Sagarmatha National Park
• Handrail use
• All necessary public equipment (high-altitude tents, gas burners, gas, ropes, individual bag for each participant)
• Group First Aid Kit
• *Guarantee KuluarClimbing - we will refund 15% of the cost, in case of not climbing Ama Dablam
• Advice on trek preparation, climbing, equipment selection, training and physical fitness
• Help with buying tickets

• The price does not include:
• Air flight to Nepal (from $400-600)
• Domestic flight Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu (320-350 USD)
• Rental of personal special equipment - crampons, ice axes, systems..
• Nepalese visa ($50)
• Porter for personal equipment (about $ 150 for the entire track for 12 kg of cargo)
• Compulsory climbing insurance (includes evacuation by helicopter)
• Summit bonus - $150 per person. This is a bonus and your gratitude to the guide for his work, given only if you reach the top
• Tips for porters - $50-70
• Meals on the track ($15-30 per day, depending on appetite)
• Excursions on free days after climbing
• All expenses not specified in the program (force majeure, evacuation)

The total amount of additional expenses will be: approximately $500 for meals, $150 for a personal porter + air travel. Be sure to take around $300-500 with you on top for unexpected expenses.

IMPORTANT! The decision on the possibility or impossibility of continuing the ascent is made exclusively by the guides, is mandatory and is not subject to discussion. We're interested in getting as many of our members to the top as possible, but safety always comes first!

Payment order

Full payment for the program occurs on the first day of the trip to the guide in dollars.

To reserve a seat in a group, you need to make an advance payment of $800. You can do this by contacting us or through the payment form on the site>>

Important! Conditions for the return of the prepayment, in case of refusal to participate in the program:

• More than 40 days before the start: the full prepayment is kept on your balance sheet or returned, minus the commission of the transfer system
• From two weeks to 40 days: the prepayment is returned or remains on the balance sheet minus the actual expenses that we incurred (permits, transfers, tickets for the second guide..)
• Less than two weeks before the start: the prepayment is retained by us in full and is non-refundable

In case of departure from the route, the money is not returned.

*Guarantee KuluarClimbing means that in case of not climbing to the top, we will credit the bonus account with a percentage of the cost (depending on the program) in favor of further ascents. It can be used both for this and other climbing programs during the calendar year. After the expiration date, it burns out.

Program changes

Depending on the weather conditions, condition and general wishes of the group, the guide has the right to make changes to the route. Guide decisions are binding and non-negotiable.

Weather

Weather conditions are one of the most important factors for a successful ascent. The weather in the mountains changes very rapidly. To summarize, it is usually good in the morning, and spoils in the evening. At altitude it is very cold in the evening and at night, the temperature "according to the sensations" (considering the strength of the wind) can drop to -20 - -25 Celsius. There is often sunshine during the day, at such heights it is especially dangerous. The sun's rays are reflected from the snow and you burn out instantly. Don't forget to bring sunscreen!

Required documents

A visa to Nepal is issued right at the border, the cost of a visa for 30 days of stay is $50. Detailed design instructions. To obtain a visa, you only need a valid passport, the validity of which is more than 6 months from the date of the return flight.

To participate in the campaign, you must not have diseases from this list >>

Where to go?

Climbing Ama Dablam is one of the most difficult programs. Seven- and eight-thousanders are waiting for you ahead.

• - 7 134 m, technically the easiest seven-thousander of the Pamirs
• Climbing Manaslu - 8,163 m, a relatively simple and technically accessible eight-thousander

Upcoming dates for climbing Ama Dablam

Day 1. Meeting in Kathmandu

You can arrive at any time, flights convenient for you. At the exit from the airport you will be met by our guide or Nepalese assistant. In the evening, the guides will hold a briefing, and at dinner, the participants will get acquainted.

Day 2. Preparation for the ascent

We close all organizational issues and prepare for the ascent of Ama Dablam. The guides will check the equipment of each participant, and whoever lacks something, we will buy everything. If you have free time and desire, we will take a walk to the Swayambhunath monkey temple, which offers excellent views of Kathmandu!

Day 3. Flight to Lukla, transfer to Phakding

Departure to Lukla by early flights. Meeting with Nepalese guide, liaison officer and porters. In Lukla (2800m) we will spend a few hours repacking the trunks, buying gas and completing the formalities. The guides will take care of this, while the participants will be able to eat in one of the lodges. Then we will go to Phakding (2600 m), where we will stop for the night. Walking 8 km, it will take about three hours.

Day 4. Transfer to Namche Bazaar

From Phakding, along the picturesque Dudh-Kosi gorge, we will climb to the capital of the Sherpas, Namche (3440). On the way, we will have the first view of Everest and Lhotse. Here we will settle in a lodge and take a light walk to the monument of Tenzing Norgay, the first climber of Everest.

Day 5. Acclimatization hike to Kumjung

In order for our body to have time to adapt to new heights, we make a day in Namche. This does not mean that we will sit still - quite the contrary. Today we will visit the famous Everest View Hotel, walk around the village of Kumjung, where the Yeti scalp is kept, and climb to the Hillary Memorial (4000 m). All day we will be accompanied by views of the highest peaks of the Himalayas - Everest (8,848 m), Lhotse (8,516 m), Nuptse (7,861 m). But visually higher and more beautiful than all will be the top of Ama Dablam, climbing which is the main goal of our trip to Nepal.

Day 6. Trek to Tjangboche

Admiring the giant peaks surrounding us, we will reach the legendary monastery in Tyangboche (3860). Here, or a little lower in the village of Deboche, we will stop for the night. In Tjangboche we will try to get to the puja and ask the gods for a successful ascent to Ama Dablam and Island Peak!

Day 7. Trek to Dingboche

Along a beautiful path winding through the rhododendron forest, we will go down to the bridge over the river, after which the long ascent to Pangboche begins. All day we will be accompanied by views of Everest and Lhotse, but it is Ama Dablan that fascinates us - the dream peak for many climbers. Gradually we will leave the forest area and come to the village of Dingboche (4350), where we will spend the night.

Day 8. Acclimatization day

We will smoothly and lightly gain height on the nearby peaks. For the first time in the program we will cross the 5000 m mark. All the time we will have views of the surrounding eight-thousanders, as well as Nuptse, Baruntse and the Island and Ama Dablam themselves. In the distance, the black pyramid of Makalu (8,485 m) will appear.

Day 9. Trek to Chukung

A short hike to Chukung (about 3 hours) to a height of 4750. After that, we will again go to the radial exit for the next portion of active acclimatization.

Day 10. Trek to Island Peak Base Camp

From Chukung we pass to Sun Island Peak (5087). We have a rest, with the help of guides we adjust and check the equipment.

Day 11. Attack camp Island Peak

From the aircraft we will rise to the assault camp at 5600. Here is a control check of the equipment and the condition of the group. Tomorrow is an early climb!

Day 12. Climbing Island Peak

We leave in the dark. By the light of flashlights, we climb a steep stone couloir, which will lead us to a sharp edge. Immediately behind the ridge begins a snow-ice plateau. There will be a large crack along the way, which we will overcome by stairs. Then there is a more gentle section and a sharp, almost vertical take-off of 150-200 meters.

This is where we'll go for the glory! We go out to a sharp pre-summit ridge, a few tens of meters - and we are at the top!

On the same day we will try to descend to Chukung.

Day 13. Reserve day in case of bad weather

We will do our best to climb the mountain. But the weather can make its own adjustments. In this case, we have a reserve day.

Day 14. Descent to Pangboche

We leave early to have more time to relax. We descend to Pangboche (3900 m). The rest of the day we just rest and recover in the green zone.

Day 15. Rest day

We continue to gain strength and breathe oxygenated air below 4000 meters in Pangboche :-). On the main ascent, we will need all the strength! During the day, the guides will check all the equipment again before leaving for Ama Dablam.

Day 16. Ama Dablam Base Camp

From Pangboche we leave for Ama Dablam (4500). We camp in the tents of the base camp.

Day 17. Transfer to ABC

Today we will ascend to the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) to a height of 5100. The path will pass along the moraine of the glacier, surrounded by many snow peaks.

Day 18. Transfer to Camp 1

From ABC we will ascend to Camp 1 (5670) directly on the SE ridge. Today we are waiting for the movement on the rocks and the first steep sections. On this day, you can see what Ama Dablam is so famous for - the depth of the surrounding cliffs and the steepness of the ridges!

Day 19. Transfer to Camp 2

We climb the rocky ridge to camp 2 (5944). The movement takes place along the railings on the clamps, since the relief is quite complex. Inspiring views, difficult terrain and at the end of the day - a unique camp 2, which is located on the top of a rocky gendarme tower.

Day 20. Transfer to Camp 3 (assault)

We rise to the third assault camp (6300). Today we are waiting for a real alpine combined relief: rocks, ice, snow, movement along bizarre ridges and ice walls. The ascent is not easy, but the overnight stay is high. But it will save us time in the decisive exit tomorrow.

Day 21. Climbing Ama Dablam 6856 m

The decisive day of the entire expedition is the day of the assault. We leave early and move along the famous hanging glacier. Further, gentler snowy slopes lead us to a huge snow field of the summit! From here, Everest, Lhotse and other peaks seem very close! We take pictures, spend some time at the top (depending on the weather) and start descending. We try to go down to one of the lower camps.

Day 22. Descent to the base camp

We continue our descent to the base camp. Only here you can finally congratulate each other on the successful ascent of Ama Dablam! We are great fellows!

Day 23. Reserve day in case of bad weather

Day 24. Trek to Namche

We leave early, today we have a long hike to Namche Bazaar, where finally there will be all the benefits of civilization: a comfortable lodge, shower, coffee, cakes and good internet.

Day 25. Trek to Lukla

On the already familiar path we return to Lukla.

Day 26. Flight to Kathmandu

We try to take an early flight to Kathmandu. We check into the hotel, dismantle the equipment and rest.

Day 27. Sightseeing in Kathmandu

Today we have a free program, during which guides will help organize visits to interesting sights: Buddhanath stupas, Monkey Temple, visit the ancient city of Bhaktapur, etc. In case of bad weather in the mountains, we can use this day as a backup.

In the evening - a farewell dinner and presentation of certificates of the Couloir.

Day 28. Flight home

Climbing Ama Dablam completed. We will try today to get the official certificates of the Nepal Mining Association and hand them over to you. We recommend taking tickets for evening flights, as this day can be used as another reserve.

Preparing to climb Ama Dablam

Climbing Ama Dablam is a very difficult program both technically and physically. A solid height, complemented by great technical complexity, make climbing Ama Dablam a real challenge even for experienced climbers. You will need excellent physical shape, the ability to use special equipment.

Ama Dablam is a real challenge that only the strongest and most determined can do!

We strongly recommend that you carefully approach the issue of preparation. Start running 3-5 months before the planned ascent. Jogging 10 km at a calm pace should not be difficult for you. If it is possible to measure the pulse - run on a pulse in the region of 130-140 beats per minute. If this is not possible, run at a pace at which you can speak. Be sure to sign up for a climbing gym and train 2-3 times a week. You will need strong hands and skillful coordination.

To take part in the ascent is simple: you need to fill out a participant form, wait for our confirmation and buy tickets, collect the necessary equipment and arrive at the meeting point on time. But it's harder to qualify. In the team we will take only those who really have a chance to reach the top, based on the experience of previous ascents. We will definitely meet in person.

Previous ascent experience

To participate in the ascent of Ama Dablam, your asset must have climbed one of the peaks above 6000 meters or 5-k in the off-season, as well as a technical summit of the Matterhorn level. And in order to climb 6000, you need to climb 5000. In total, you get at least three ascents that can be divided into blocks.

First high-altitude experience

• - 5033 m, the most accessible five-thousander
• - 4,810 m, low summit but some technical difficulty
• - 5 642 m, needs no introduction, included in the "Seven Peaks" program
• - 5,895 m, the highest peak in Africa, included in the "Seven Summits" program
• - routes with altitudes from 5000 meters

Climbing non-technical peaks above 6000 meters

• - 6189 m, the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. If you are preparing for Ama Dablam, then it is better to choose another mountain, because climbing the Island is included in our climbing program to Ama Dablam. Why repeat?
• - 6461 m, the highest trekking peak in Nepal
• - 6962 m, the highest peak of South America, included in the program "Seven peaks"
• - 7 134 m, technically the simplest seven-thousander of the Pamirs. But it won't be easy!
• Climbing Elbrus or Mont Blanc in the off-season

Technically challenging climb

• Climbing the Matterhorn from Italy - program coming soon
• Traverse Mont Blanc in March - program coming soon

Without the necessary experience, participation in climbing Ama Dablam is not possible.

Drink your vitamins

Two weeks before the start of the program, start taking vitamins, for example, Vitrum Energy or Ginsomin. They are designed for increased physical activity and will help to better prepare your body for climbing.

IMPORTANT!

The guide has the right not to allow you to participate in the program if your equipment does not match the recommended on the site. For example, if instead of mountain boots you took sneakers or rubber boots.

Please be as responsible as possible when collecting equipment. Not only your health depends on this, but also the comfortable passage of the route by the group as a whole!

RECOMMEND 🔔

When packing a backpack, put all things in plastic bags (you can use garbage bags), this will protect them from getting wet in case of heavy rain or snow.

There is nothing worse than a wet sleeping bag on a hike, put it in the strongest bag that will definitely not tear. Also, pack warm clothes very carefully, especially downy ones. Stay dry and enjoy the adventure!

List of equipment for climbing Ama Dablam

Climbing Ama Dablam is a difficult high-altitude program. The selection of equipment must be approached with all responsibility, because it depends on whether you will return safe and sound from the expedition. You need to have with you:

Shoes

• High altitude boots. It is safest to have three-layer boots for climbing 8000 m. Plastics or two-layer boots are also suitable. Keep in mind that plastics are less convenient and comfortable.
• Trekking boots - semi-high, hard, well worn. Article: " "
• Trekking sandals, crocs - for easy trails and relaxing in the camp

Cloth

• Light headwear - cap, buff
• Warm hat - ideal ones are sold in Kathmandu for 2-3 dollars
• Fleece gloves
• Warm mountain mittens for climbing (tops) - with safety cords
• Warm down jacket with a hood
• Down or artificially insulated pants.
• Good membrane jacket with ventilation, windproof "skirt" and hood. The hood should fit over the helmet, while not restricting movement.
• Good membrane pants - self-dumping or with ventilation
• Lightweight trekking pants
• Light dress for beautiful photos
• Shorts
• Warm fleece or polartec
• Lightweight fleece
• Fleece sleep suit (or "inactive" thermal suit)
• A set of good active thermal underwear - for movement. Article: " "
• T-shirts - 2-3 pieces
• Trekking socks - 5 pairs. We use Nepalese for $1.5 a pair.
• Wool socks - 1 pair for sleep
• Shoe covers (flashlights)
• Interchangeable underwear

Equipment

• Warm sleeping bag. Comfort temperature -10 for men and -15 °C for girls. Article: " "
• Lightweight trekking backpack for 40-45 liters. Article: " "
• Mat, better inflatable
• Good sunglasses (protection factor 4) in a hard case
• Sun mask with protection factor 2-4
• Microfiber towel
• Thermos for 0.5-0.7 l
• A good headlamp with a spare set of batteries for climbing
• Good trekking poles. Article: " "
• Personal first aid kit. The composition of a personal first aid kit is here: ""
• Sun cream with at least 50 protection units
• Hygienic lipstick
• Moisturizing hand cream
• Stock of wet sanitary napkins
• Toilet paper
• Documents, money - in hermetic packaging
• Camera, phone
• A set of personal goodies - snickers, nuts. Small, up to 1 kg in weight
• Small toys, sweets for local children

Individual special equipment for climbing:

• The lower harness is light, with the ability to adjust the size on the leg loops and several loops for carabiners. Virtually all modern systems will fit
• Two self-insurance mustaches - can be either from a rope or sewn from a sling or safety loops
• Helmet - any will do, the main thing is to sit well. Choose lighter and of such a size that you can put a hat / buff under the helmet
• Carabiners - 4 pieces with a clutch. One larger and three as light as possible in medium size. Should be easy to seal and open with gloves
• Zhumar - a clamp for moving along a rope. It happens under the left and right hand, take it under your working
• Descender (glass, basket, ATS guide)
• Good ice ax or ice tool
• Cats - 12-tooth steel. Definitely with anti-podlips, better automatic or semi-automatic. We recommend to fit in advance with boots, but if anything, the guides will help with this.

All individual climbing equipment can be rented in Kathmandu. The whole set will cost about 120-150 dollars for the entire expedition.

Tablets (in addition to personal first aid kit)

There are no miracle pills that will save you from altitude sickness. The main thing here is smooth and competent acclimatization. Some pills can speed it up and make it easier. If you are confident in your abilities, taking pills is not necessary at all.

• Diakarb, Acetezelomid - active substance Diamax. Start taking one tablet in the morning the day before the climb (upon arrival in Lukla). Diuretic, lowers internal pressure. According to our personal observations, it really helps the participants to better tolerate height. Contraindicated in the presence of renal failure
• Hypoxen - recommended for increased physical exertion, including mountain climbing
• Vitamins - prepare your body for stress, compensate for vitamin deficiency in the mountain diet. Start taking two weeks before the start.

Route thread

Kathmandu - Lukla - Namche Bazaar - Thangboche - Pangboche - Ama Dablam Base Camp - Pangboche - Namche Bazaar - Lukla - Kathmandu

The tour price includes

Expedition leader with experience of successful ascents of Ama Dablam
AlpIndustry guides at the rate of 1 guide for 2-3 people
3* hotel in Kathmandu (2 nights before the expedition and 2 nights after the expedition)
Tents for high camps (one for 2-3 participants in each high camp)
Cookware, gas, cooking burner
Permit (permit) to climb Ama Dablam
Permit to visit Sagarmatha National Park
Khumbu Regional Permit
Accommodation on the track in guesthouses
All transfers according to the program
Group first aid kit
Payment for the use of a railing rope
Gas cylinders - at the rate of 5 pieces for each participant
Gas burners - 1 per high-altitude camp tent
Public equipment (ropes, ice screws, hooks, rock hammers, bookmarks, etc.)
radio stations

The tour price does not include

Nepalese visa ($50)
International flight to Kathmandu (from 33,000 rubles)
Flight Kathmandu - Lukla - Kathmandu (about $ 350)
Meals in Kathmandu and during the trek ($25-30 per day), high-altitude meals
Excursions to Kathmandu ($10-15)
Change of living conditions (single occupancy)
Tips for service personnel
Medical climbing insurance (mandatory for each participant)
Carrying out search and rescue and transportation operations
Personal high-altitude porter to the summit (approximately $1700)
Tips for a high-altitude porter guide ($500)
Porters for carrying personal belongings of the participant and tents ($20/day)
Airport taxes and overweight charges (more than 15 kg) on ​​domestic flights

Required documents

Passport valid for at least 6 months after the end of the trip.
Nepalese visa - issued upon arrival at Kathmandu airport.
Permit - a special permit for climbing Ama Dablam (included in the price).

Safety

Safety on the route is provided by our experienced guides at the rate of 1 guide for 2-3 people. We provide the necessary first aid kit for medical care. But we also recommend that you bring your own first aid kit with specific medicines. A necessary condition for participation in the expedition is that the participant has a special mountaineering medical insurance.

Accommodation/Hotels

In Kathmandu - hotel Samsara Resort 3 * or similar, double accommodation.
On the track - accommodation in lodges (buildings like mountain shelters, quite comfortable), double accommodation.
During the ascent - accommodation in tents (from the Base Camp and above).

At the hotel in Kathmandu, meals are based on breakfast. There are many restaurants and cafes in Kathmandu, where both European and local cuisine (Nepalese, Tibetan) is widely represented. A standard dinner without alcohol costs about $18-20. On the track, food can be ordered at the lodges ($25-30/day). Climbing products are purchased by the participants themselves or by a guide in agreement with the participants. Participants cook their own food under the guidance of a guide in high-altitude camps on gas burners.

Our ascent will take the classic route along the southwestern ridge and the reward for climbing it will be a fantastic view that opens from the top of Ama Dablam - you can simultaneously see four eight-thousanders at once - Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu.

Experienced Sherpas will help us both during the route and during the installation of high-altitude camps.

The path to the summit is laid along the southwestern route of the mountain range. Technical route with three camps starting from the base camp. The ascent usually takes about 4 weeks. Climbing is technically not easy, there will be pure rock climbing on slippery granite, and on snow and stones. At the final stage, there is a long steep climb up the snowy slope to the very top!

Tour program

The Ama Dablam climbing program is designed for 26 days.

Dates:
4 October - 29 October 2014
April 18 - May 13, 2015

Route: Kathmandu - Lukla - Pakding - Namche Bazaar - Tengboche Monastery - Pangboche - Base Camp (BC) - Attack Camp (ABC) - Climbing - Namche Bazaar - Lukla - Kathmandu

Climbing program by day:

Day 1
Arrival in Kathmandu, meeting at the airport, hotel accommodation. Preparation of necessary documents and permits.

Day 2
Sightseeing tour of Kathmandu with a Russian-speaking guide: Royal Durbar Square with its ancient stories, Hindu temples and traditions, the temple of the living goddess Kumari and the oldest wooden palace Kastamandap; the largest ancient Buddhist stupa Boudanath with the all-seeing eyes of the Buddha; Swayambhunath is a small town of Buddhist temples, monasteries and Hindu religious buildings. From the top of the hill "Monkey Mountain", where Swayambhunath is located, a magnificent panorama of the Kathmandu Valley opens - a colorful green basin surrounded by majestic mountain peaks. Return to the hotel. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 3
Acquaintance with the tourist area Thamel with its numerous restaurants, shops and equipment stores, where you can buy everything you need for the Expedition.

Day 4
Departure from Kathmandu to Lukla (2860m) by small plane (about 35 min flight). Arrival, start of trekking: transition to the village. Pagding (2640 m)

Day 5
Trek to Namche (3340m). Trek through several interesting settlements to the entrance to Nat. Sagarmatha park near the village of Jorsale. After lunch in a pine forest, we leave the river and climb the stairs to the main administrative center of Khumbu - Namche.

Day 6
Acclimatization rest day. Namche is the capital of the Sherpa people and the largest settlement in the Solukhumbu region. Optional climb to 3800 m - Syangboche airstrip - and a walk to the Japanese "oxygen" hotel overlooking Everest, Lhotse, Amadablam, Kantega and Thamserku. Every Saturday there is a market of local products from all over the valley, so this place is better known as Namche Bazaar. There is an abundance of souvenirs. Visit to the National Museum park, and if you wish, you can visit the ethnographic museum and the monastery in the north-east of the city.

Day 7
Trek to Tengboche (3870m). The path goes to the bridge over Dudh Kosi (2 hours), then climb to the monastery (1-1.5 hours). This is one of the highest mountain monasteries, the main Sherpa monastery of the Nyingma direction of Tibetan Buddhism. It is located on the shoulder of a high-mountain ridge at an altitude of 3870 m. From here you can see Ama Dablan (6812 m), the snow-white wall of Lhotse (8501 m) and the rock pyramid of Everest. Dinner. Overnight at the lodge.

Day 8
Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp (4600m). Overnight at a guest house in Pangboche (3900m).

Day 9-22
The period of acclimatization and ascent.

Day 23
Trek Pangboche (3900m) - Namche Bazaar (3340m). Overnight at guest house.

Day 24
Trek to Lukla (2860m). Overnight at the lodge.

Day 25
Flight Lukla - Kathmandu. Transfer to the hotel. Free time in Kathmandu, selection of souvenirs. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 26
Transfer to the international airport. Final flight from Kathmandu.

tour cost

The cost of climbing Ama Dablam with local guides is $5120.

What's included

In the cost of the tour included:

• Transfers - meeting and seeing off at the airport
• Excursions in Kathmandu with a Russian guide
• 4 nights accommodation in Kathmandu based on double occupancy - 3* hotel with breakfast
• Domestic flights Kathmandu-Lukla and back
• Air delivery of cargo Expeditions (cargo) - based on a maximum of 30 kg per person
• Permit for climbing Ama Dablam
• Permit to enter Solokhumbu National Park
• Services of a communications officer for the Expedition according to the regulations
• Accompanying guide / high-altitude Sherpa (Ama Dablam and Everest climber) - one for two team members
• Porter/porter service for Team members' luggage and equipment for climbing and camping, food and fuel: 3 porters from Lukla to BC AmaDablam
• Porters for Team and Camp cargo - back from BC to Lukla
• Chef for the Team in the BC
• Chef's Assistant at BC
• BC equipment: tents for Kitchen, Dining room, Shower room, Toilet, kitchen utensils, tables/chairs
• Altitude nutrition while climbing
• Tents - one personal for each team member in BC, and one for two team members in high-altitude camps
• Oxygen with mask and regulator in BC - for emergency care (in case of use costs at the expense of the user)
• Registration of "garbage" pledge

• International flight to Kathmandu
• Nepal visa (40 USD)
• Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu
• Meals and accommodation on trekking to Ama Dablam Base Camp
• Personal expenses, incl. for souvenirs, alcoholic drinks, international calls and internet use
• Climbing insurance
• Expenses for evacuation and rescue work (if necessary)
• Personal guide-high-altitude Sherpa
• High-altitude climbing guide bonus - USD 500
• Tips for service personnel

Equipment

List of personal equipment needed to climb Ama Dablam.

Cloth
Down jacket
Storm jacket with membrane
Fleece jacket
Trousers storm with a membrane
thermal underwear
Warm climbing socks (3 pairs)
Thin trekking socks (3 pairs)
Gaiters
Gloves
Warm mittens
Fleece hat
Balaclava and face mask
rain cape

Shoes
Two-layer climbing boots, up to 7000m
Trekking sneakers

Mountaineering
suspension system
self-insurance
descender
Carabiner with clutch (3 pcs)
Helmet
cats
Ice ax
Telescopic poles
Mountaineering glasses

Tourism and bivouac
Backpack 40-50 liters
Bag 100-120l
Sleeping bag
Carpet flat
Thermos
Sun cream
Hygienic lipstick
Towel, soap, toothpaste, brush
Personal First Aid Kit