Odysseus and the Sirens. The mystical island of Es Vedra, or Where Odysseus listened to the Sirens

Despite such a sad prediction, the Argonauts set off together and cheerfully. No matter how beautiful the island of the sorceress was, no matter how wonderful the valley where eternal summer reigns, native Hellas was dear to them.

Their ship glided quickly past the shores of fertile Italy, and the waves shimmered under it like silver scales. Toward evening, fog swirled over the water; several islands, similar to oncoming ships, appeared on the horizon. But the darkness descended to the very water and hid the islands from the eyes of the Argonauts.

Suddenly, a voice came from the mist. Resounding female voices, at first far away, then closer and closer, louder and louder rang in the evening air. The characters looked at each other in disbelief. They couldn't figure out where the singing was coming from. It seemed that a ship full of invisible singers was rushing towards them in the fog. And although the Argonauts did not hear the words, they seemed to them in the sounds of prayer and anxiety, a mournful tender call.

These were magical sounds, they attracted the Argonauts, beckoned and called the ship behind them. First, Orpheus turned his face to where the singing came from, and froze in place. Then Linkei, straining his keen eyesight, glared into the mist. Behind him, Medea, throwing back her braids from her ears, listened to the song, and the young Dioscuri, releasing the oars from their hands, froze in deep silence. And the helmsman Typhius, leaving the helm, stood up to his full height and raised his right foot on board, as if he had taken it into his head to step through it into the water.

Stop! Jason finally said. - This is a song about death. Someone is drowning in the fog and crying out for help.

At a sign from Jason, the rowers grabbed the oars. Their bronze bodies rushed forward at once, then rolled back, and the Argo, covered in foam and spray, rushed through the dense fog towards the inviting sounds. Never before had the Argonauts driven a ship with such speed. Overwhelmed by an irresistible desire to find out where this song comes from, the rowers even forgot their own Hellas.

The bow of the ship cut through the fog at high speed, and an unknown island seemed to emerge from under the water to meet it. At the foot of this island, breakers were seething, and sharp reefs hidden under water threatened careless swimmers. And on the green lawn, by the very waves, heaps of stones were piled up, and yellow skulls with empty eye sockets lay in the grass.

But the Argonauts did not notice the breakers. They didn't even see the bones. With strong strokes of the oars they drove their ship straight onto the reefs. There, on a smooth-turned stone, just above the water, half-turned to the swimmers, sat three maidens-singers. Half hidden by the stone, they beckoned the Argonauts to them and sang a magical song. Their hair shone in the sun, sometimes copper, sometimes green. Hands reached out towards the heroes. Big eyes, cold as the eyes of snakes, followed the Argo without stopping. And, obeying a magical look, the helmsman of Tithia directed the ship straight at the stone. It was as if in a dream he saw both reefs and a golden shoal, but under the influence of a spell it seemed to him that it was better to crash on a reef than to sail away from the island without getting drunk on wonderful singing. Other swimmers felt the same way. Only the wise Orpheus did not succumb to magic.

Standing on the prow of the ship in a long wavy mantle, the singer raised the cithara and struck the strings with his hand. The consonant strings rumbled measuredly under a dexterous hand, drowning out the voices of the terrible singers with a solemn chorus:

Stand still, heroes of Hellas, rowers of the high-speed Argo!

Or then we were saved from the pursuit of the cruel Colchians,

To perish in the waves without reaching Pelasgia dear?

Don't you hear how the breakers roar before us.

Covering the coast and rocks around with seething foam?

Don't you see: this is the island of the Deadly Sirens.

Be afraid of treacherous sisters. By the inevitable spell of songs

They destroy the ships passing near the sailors.

To the sea, brave Jason! Get away from the abode of death.

The one who saw the treacherous Sirens and was captivated by them.

That neither a gray-haired father, nor a dear mother, nor brothers

In a native home, he will never console with a welcome return.

The evil Siren sisters are just as beautiful to the waist,

Like the goddess of love Aphrodite, born of the sea.

But do not look at them, do not be captivated by their false beauty:

The fairy sisters' thighs are overgrown with disgusting hair,

And from the knees instead of legs crooked eagle paws

They have long served as a support for their ugly body.

So Orpheus sang to the Argonauts, and the Sirens themselves heard the song.

But as soon as the singing of the Sirens ceased, one by one the rowers woke up.

Magic spells flew off Typhius like a dream. He leaned on the helm with his chest, and the light ship, almost hitting a stone, turned east and rushed away from the island.

In a terrible excitement, the Sirens jumped off the stone and waddled to the water. They so wanted to take a closer look at Orpheus that for a moment they forgot about their ugliness. But then all the Argonauts saw both the shaggy hips and the crooked bird's paws of the magical sisters. Then the heroes burst into mighty contemptuous laughter. Jason laughed out loud. Writhing with laughter, Castor and Polydeuces mixed up the oars. The laughing Euphalus grabbed his head, and Telamon wrapped his arms around the mast so as not to tip over into the water.

So the heroes sailed away from the terrible island. Sirens, having fallen on the grass, rolled on it and gnawed at each other in futile rage.

The Golden Fleece

Retelling by V.V. and L.V. Uspensky


Despite such a sad prediction, the Argonauts set off together and cheerfully. No matter how beautiful the island of the sorceress was, no matter how wonderful the valley where eternal summer reigns, native Hellas was dear to them. Their ship glided quickly past the shores of fertile Italy, and the waves shimmered under it like silver scales. Toward evening, fog swirled over the water; several islands, similar to oncoming ships, appeared on the horizon. But the darkness descended to the very water and hid the islands from the eyes of the Argonauts.

Suddenly, a chirp was heard from the mist. Resounding female voices, distant at first, then closer and closer, louder and louder, rang in the evening air. The characters looked at each other in disbelief. They couldn't figure out where the singing was coming from. It seemed that a ship full of invisible singers was rushing towards them in the fog. And although the Argonauts did not hear the words, they seemed to them in the sounds of prayer and anxiety, a mournful tender call.

These were magical sounds, they attracted the Argonauts, beckoned and called the ship behind them. First, Orpheus turned his face to where the singing came from, and stared into the fog with his eyes. Behind him, Medea, throwing back her braids from her ears, listened to the song, and the young Dioscuri, releasing the oars from their hands, froze in deep silence. And the helmsman Typhius, leaving the helm, stood up to his full height and raised his right foot on board, as if he had taken it into his head to step through it into the water.

Stop! Jason said at last. “This is a song about death. Someone is drowning in the fog and crying out for help!

At a sign from Jason, the rowers grabbed the oars. Their bronze bodies rushed forward at once, then rolled back, and the Argo, covered in foam and spray, rushed through the dense fog towards the inviting sounds. Never before had the Argonauts driven a ship with such speed. Overwhelmed by an irresistible desire to find out where this song comes from, the rowers even forgot their own Hellas.

The bow of the ship cut through the fog at high speed, and an unknown island seemed to emerge from under the water to meet it. At the foot of this island, breakers were boiling, and sharp reefs, hidden under water, threatened careless swimmers. And on the green lawn, near the waves, heaps of stones were thrown, and yellow skulls with empty eye sockets lay everywhere in the grass.

But the Argonauts did not notice the breakers. They didn't even see the bones. With strong strokes of the oars they drove their ship straight onto the reefs. There, on a smoothly turned stone, just above the water, half-turned to the swimmers, sat three maidens-singers. Half hidden by the stone, they beckoned the Argonauts to them and sang a magical song. Their hair shone in the sun, sometimes copper, sometimes green. Hands reached out towards the heroes. Big eyes, cold as the eyes of snakes, followed the Argo without stopping. And, obeying a magical look, the helmsman Typhius directed the ship straight at the stone. It was as if in a dream he saw both reefs and a golden shoal, but under the influence of a spell it seemed to him that it was better to crash on a reef than to sail away from the island without getting drunk on wonderful singing. Other swimmers felt the same. Only the wise Orpheus did not succumb to magic.

Standing on the prow of the ship in a long wavy mantle, the singer raised the cithara and struck the strings with his hand. The consonant strings rumbled measuredly under a dexterous hand, drowning out the voices of the terrible singers with a solemn chorus:


Stop, heroes of Hellas, rowers of the high-speed "Argo"!
Or then we were saved from the pursuit of the cruel Colchians.
To perish in the waves without reaching Pelasgia dear?
Don't you hear how the breakers roar before us,
Covering the coast and rocks around with seething foam?
Don't you see: this is the island of the Deadly Sirens.
Be afraid of treacherous sisters. By the inevitable spell of songs
They destroy the ships passing near the sailors.
To the sea, brave Jason! Get away from the abode of death.
He who saw the treacherous Sirens and was captivated by them,
That neither a gray-haired father, nor a dear mother, nor brothers
In a native home, he will never console with a welcome return.
The evil sisters of the Siren from the waist up are just as beautiful.
Like the goddess of love Aphrodite, born of the sea.
But do not look at them, do not be captivated by their false beauty:
The fairy sisters' thighs are covered with disgusting hair,
And from the knees, instead of legs, crooked eagle paws
They have long served as a support for their ugly body.


So Orpheus sang to the Argonauts, and the Sirens themselves heard the song. They did not understand human speech, but the singer's voice seemed to them sweeter and purer than their own voices. And the sounds of his kithara so surprised the insidious sisters that they fell silent, looking in bewilderment at the fast-moving ship.

But as soon as the singing of the Sirens ceased, one by one the rowers woke up. Magic spells flew off Typhius like a dream. He leaned on the helm with his chest, and the light ship, almost hitting a stone, turned east and rushed away from the island.

In a terrible excitement, the Sirens jumped off the stone and waddled to the water. They so wanted to take a closer look at Orpheus that for a moment they forgot about their ugliness. But then all the Argonauts saw both the shaggy hips and the crooked bird's paws of the magical sisters. Then the heroes burst into mighty, contemptuous laughter. Jason laughed out loud. Writhing with laughter, Castor and Polydeuces tangled the oars. The laughing Euphalus grabbed his head, and Telamon wrapped his arms around the mast so as not to tip over into the water. So the heroes sailed away from the terrible island. Sirens, having fallen on the grass, rolled on it and gnawed at each other in futile rage.


Added ok. 2006-2007

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Long ago in Greece, between two blue sea ​​bays, in a deep valley fenced off high mountains from the rest of the world lay the country of Boeotia. Under her blue sky, the peak of Helikon rose high, mysterious mountain, where between the dark groves, above the ringing jets of the Hippocrene spring, the goddesses of art lived - the Muses ...

In these very days, the old shepherd Thesander, a resident of a coastal village in Thessaly, roamed with his flock along the slope great mountain Pelion. Every day he drove his goats higher and higher into the mountains, and at night he built a fire somewhere under a rocky ledge, took out a handful of dried figs and an unleavened cake from a bag, ate supper, washed down with food clean water and went to bed until morning...

On the same day, but by evening, King Pelius was returning home from bathing to his palace. Pelius was hunchbacked and ugly, only his large intelligent eyes made him look like a man. But the chariot on which he rode around the city, harnessed by four fast horses, was beautiful, the soldiers of his retinue shone with golden shields and armor...

Several days have passed. It became noisy and joyful in the poor hut where the exile Eson lived. Aeson's brothers, kings neighboring cities came to him to celebrate the return of his nephew. Upon learning that Pelius was calling Jason to his palace, they decided to go with him and support his legitimate demands...

Construction of the ship "Argo"

And now, along all the roads of Greece, along the flinty mountain trails and valleys overgrown with laurels, everywhere and everywhere, from the island of Cythera drowned in the azure sea in the south to the wild gorges of Macedonia in the north, from western sea to the east, they went, crawled, new rumors flew ...

The long-awaited time has come. In the morning Arg brushed his hair back from his sweaty forehead and laughed for the first time in days. Severe carpenters in harmony hit the resinous wedges that held the ship on the shore. Like a swan descending from the shore into the water, the proud ship glided onto the foamy waves of the bay...

Moving away from the familiar shores, the ship "Argo" for many days cut the waves of the calm Propontis, that sea, which people now call the Sea of ​​Marmara. The new moon had already arrived, and the nights turned black, like pitch, with which ship sides are pitched, when the vigilant Linkey was the first to point out to his comrades in the fog a low coast, fishing nets appeared on the coast, a town at the entrance to the bay ...

Immediately two of the travelers, Hercules and another warrior, went to the coastal forest to make a new oar. Everyone saw how they went ashore, but no matter how much they waited for their return, no one came back. They rushed to look for the missing, but the alien land was empty and silent...

And then a blind old man came out to meet them, leaning on a staff. He hurried to the guests, but was so thin and weak that he could hardly stand on his feet. As soon as he got out of the door, he sank down on the grass, completely exhausted. Courageous and noble people always look at old people with great respect and love...

Day, two, three, the white sail of the Argo glided over the expanses of Propontis. By the end of the third day, the heroes ahead heard a heavy noise and splash. Now they could hear the rumble of a powerful surf, then it was like a storm was roaring or a giant waterfall was falling into an abyss, then short terrible thunderclaps were heard ...

This new sea, unknown to the Greeks, breathed into their faces with a wide-noisy rumble. It stretched out like a blue desert before them, mysterious and formidable, deserted and stern. They knew: somewhere out there, on the other side of its seething abyss, lie mysterious lands inhabited by wild peoples ...

Twenty days and twenty nights after that, the Argo rushed through the bosom of the sea. Twenty times the luminous Helios descended behind him into the blue waves on his chariot sparkling with fire. Twenty times ahead, where Linkey and Typhius peered all the time, the pink-fingered dawn-Eos floated out of the murmuring waves ...

They slept, and the light smoke from the sacrifices burnt on the damp bank of Phasis stretched farther and farther upwards in a thin stream. Gloomy Boreas on noisy wings carried this smoke to the middle of the Euxine Pontus. Here he handed over his burden to the fleeting Aeolus. And fast Eol sped away the news of Jason's prayer to the abode of the gods, to the snowy Olympus...

Early in the morning, when the Colchis shepherds drove their flocks of sheep to pastures, Jason and his companions headed for the mountain, where he stood magnificent palace Eeta. The high walls of the palace rose above the rocks; rows of marble columns were white everywhere, the copper of ornaments forged by Hephaestus, the god of underground fire, as a token of friendship to Eet's father Helios sparkled...

Thoughtful and embarrassed, the Argonauts stepped onto the rickety deck of their ship. Doubt seized them: the lesson given by Eet seemed impossible to many. Gloomy sitting on the bench, hugging his knees, Meleager; in deep silence, Linkei smoothed his curly beard; the Boread brothers looked at Jason with their fierce eyes...

So another night covered the mountains, forests and swamps of Colchis. Pale fever sisters emerged from the wet swamps. Ominous night birds zigzagged across the fields. Malicious dew swam in clubs over the river. In the dead of midnight, dressed in black clothes, Jason went down alone to the shore of Phasis ...

As soon as Night, the goddess in black clothes, covered the earth with her wide cloak and plunged it into darkness, Jason imperceptibly descended to the palace of Eet. He did not want the other Argonauts to know how he would get the fleece with the help of Princess Medea. The night was dark, only the eyes of the dragon guarding the fleece shone in the darkness like a thousand stars...

Eet woke up in the morning. He immediately sent his warriors to the grove of Ares. The evil king was sure that the warriors would bring him the skull and bones of Jason, gnawed by the dragon. But the soldiers with loud cries returned to the king. They assured everyone with one voice that the terrible dragon was killed, and the golden fleece was gone from the grove ...

The Argonauts, who had just dozed off in a grove on soft grass, were awakened by the thunder of a cithara. Gilded strings did not sing - they rumbled invitingly and menacingly, as in the days of great battles. Immediately realizing that trouble had happened, Jason and other heroes rushed to Orpheus and saw the enemy fleet flying up to their island in full sail...

The oars fell of their own accord from the hands of the rowers, and the helmsman left the helm. The motionless ship dozed off in the shallows near the coast of Istra. This was immediately noticed by the psoglavtsy. Baring their teeth and snarling viciously, they gathered on sandbar. There were a great many of them. They pressed close to the water, smelling prey close, but did not know how to cross to the ship...

With cheerful cries, the Argonauts sailed out into the open sea. But this sea of ​​swimmers was unfriendly. Black clouds hung over the water itself. An evil wind howled towards them. The waves swelled like mountains, and the torn sail fell on the rowers and nearly threw them into the water...

Jason soon noticed the house of the sorceress Kirka, built of heavy stones in an open and sunny place. Near the entrance lay huge mountain lions and ferocious-looking wolves. Seeing the aliens, they got up, but without anger, peace-lovingly waving their tails, they waited until they approached. And from the house sounded a pleasant song ...

Suddenly, a chirp was heard from the mist. Resounding female voices, distant at first, then closer and closer, louder and louder, rang in the evening air. The characters looked at each other in disbelief. They couldn't figure out where the singing was coming from. It seemed that a ship full of invisible singers was rushing towards them in the fog...

Ahead they heard the roar of the waves, as if the storm was flying towards them again. To the left they saw the shore, and to the right a huge wooded island. A strait appeared between the island and the land, very narrow and squeezed by rocks...

However, another test lay ahead of them. We had to go through the Plankty - a huge vaulted cave. Darkness reigns in this ancient cave. Only a narrow crack in the vault lets in a glimmer of daylight. In the eternal darkness, water flows in a circle and goes underground like a funnel ...

A well-deserved rest awaited the Argonauts on this island. The Argo entered the harbor of Theakia. Slender ships stood in countless rows everywhere. Dropping anchor at the pier, the heroes went to the palace to Alkinoi ...

The canvas sail of the strong-bottomed Argo fluttered merrily in the wind. Day and night tirelessly he cut azure waters approaching the sacred land. Finally, the Argonauts saw the shore and in the distance the outlines of Iolk. The fresh wind of the motherland breathed in their faces, brought to them the smell of grass just cut by the villagers of Iolk, the smell of ripe grapes and rich earth ...

The coast was a real desert. Only crests of sparkling sand went into the endless distance. Two seas spread around the ship: behind - azure, full of brilliance and rustle of waves, in front - unsteady, yellow sea of ​​sands. And nowhere even Linkei's keen eyes noticed a village, a tree, or a source of fresh water...

How to get out to the open sea from here? Jason called out to the stranger. - There is only one way, - answered the stranger. - Pray to Triton. This is the lake of the god Triton, and apart from him, no one will lead you out of here. As soon as he had time to say this, the young man suddenly disappeared, as if he had not been there ...

As soon as the Argo approached the island, the giant appeared from behind the mountain and shouted in a brassy voice for the swimmers to get away. To reinforce his words, he threw a heavy rock at their ship. A flat block slapped the water loudly and, bouncing like a deftly thrown stone, jumped over the Argo ...

Very soon they sailed into the Aegean Sea. And from this sea it is not so far to Iolk. Once at noon, Euphalus was sitting in the stern, resting from rowing, and examined the dried-up black lump of earth he had received from Triton ...

I can’t accept the golden fleece from you,” Pelias hastily answered. “The gods appeared to me in a dream and ordered me to hang it in the temple of Ares because you killed his beloved bulls and the thousand-eyed serpent in Colchis. Get on up! Fulfill the command of the gods. And I to you; don't owe anything...

Seeing that the inhabitants of Iolk do not love and will never love Medea, Jason decided to leave his native country. “Perhaps I will find my happiness in a foreign land,” thought the hero. Having sold his flock, he bought a chariot, four hot horses, boarded the doors and windows of Aeson's house with boards and went to Corinth, where King Creon reigned ...

That same evening, the sons of Jason played in the street near the temple of Hymen, where the Corinthians celebrate their weddings. Suddenly, torches appeared in the darkness, and there was a noise and talk of a cheerful crowd. Then flutes began to play, singing broke out and wheels rattled. - Oh Hymen, Oh Hymen! the crowd exclaimed. The little son of Medea was surprised to see Jason on the wedding chariot in sparkling royal clothes ...

Many, many years have passed since then. One day, two boys, goatherds from Iolk, drove a herd to a stream that runs into the sea. The herd went knee-deep into the stream, and the goats, wetting their black beards, greedily drew in the cold water. Knowing that the herd would not move away from the water until they got drunk and nibbled the grass along the stream, the boys at once stuck hooked sticks into the sand ...

March 8, 2019

Orthodox Christians celebrate Holy Martyr Polycarp

1946- The Council of the Ukrainian GCC in Lviv decided to liquidate the union with the Vatican and to unite with the Russian Orthodox Church

1948- in the United States, in the case of "McColum v. Department of Education", the Supreme Court ruled that the allocation of time for prayer at the beginning school day unconstitutional

Sabbath day. As usual, no one follows it. Nobody but our family. Sinners everywhere gather in crowds and indulge in fun. Men, women, girls, boys - everyone drinks wine, fights, dances, gambles, laughs, shouts, sings. And do all sorts of other nasty things...

Received the Mad Prophet today. He good man and, in my opinion, his mind is much better than his reputation. He received this nickname a very long time ago and completely undeservedly, since he simply makes predictions, and does not prophesy. He doesn't claim to be. He makes his predictions based on history and statistics...

The first day of the fourth month of the year 747 from the beginning of the world. Today I am 60 years old, for I was born in the year 687 from the beginning of the world. My relatives came to me and begged me to marry, so that our family would not be cut off. I am still young to take such care upon myself, although I know that my father Enoch, and my grandfather Jared, and my great-grandfather Maleleel, and great-great-grandfather Cainan, all entered into marriage at the age that I reached on this day ...

Another discovery. Once I noticed that William McKinley looked very sick. This is the very first lion, and from the very beginning I became very attached to him. I examined the poor man, looking for the cause of his ailment, and found that he had an unchewed head of cabbage stuck in his throat. I couldn't get it out, so I took a broom stick and pushed it in...

... Love, peace, peace, endless quiet joy - this is how we knew life in the Garden of Eden. Living was a pleasure. The passing time left no traces - no suffering, no decrepitude; sickness, sorrow, worries had no place in Eden. They hid behind its fence, but they could not penetrate it ...

I'm almost a day old. I showed up yesterday. So, anyway, it seems to me. And, probably, this is exactly so, because, if it was the day before yesterday, I did not exist then, otherwise I would remember it. It is possible, however, that I simply did not notice when it was the day before yesterday, although it was ...

This new creature with long hair is very annoying to me. It sticks out in front of my eyes all the time and follows me on my heels. I don't like it at all: I'm not used to society. Go to other animals...

Dagestanis - a term for peoples who originally live in Dagestan. There are about 30 peoples and ethnographic groups in Dagestan. In addition to Russians, Azerbaijanis and Chechens, who make up a large proportion of the population of the republic, these are Avars, Dargins, Kumti, Lezgins, Laks, Tabasarans, Nogais, Rutuls, Aguls, Tats, and others.

Circassians (self-designation - Adyge) - people in Karachay-Cherkessia. In Turkey and other countries of Western Asia, Circassians are also called all immigrants from the North. Caucasus. Believers are Sunni Muslims. The Kabardino-Circassian language belongs to the Caucasian (Iberian-Caucasian) languages ​​(Abkhazian-Adyghe group). Writing based on the Russian alphabet.

[deeper into history] [ latest additions ]

"Isle of the Sirens"

On Capri there is the “Azure Grotto”, on Capri Tiberius lived in antiquity, and in the last suit Krupp, famous for his cannons and some deeds, r of which he imitated Tiberius and which forced him in the end to resort to suicide ... That, it seems, is all what is common knowledge about Capri.

Some people also know that this marvelous island was once under the rule of the barbarians, then the Greeks, the Normans ... Historians and archaeologists remembered it relatively recently. They violated its centuries-old silence, peace, began excavations and the great plunder of its ancient values. These valuables turned out to be lying in the land of Capri almost at every step: the peasants, in whose vineyards they were found every now and then, gave everything to anyone, for pennies, allowed to take out whole barks ... Then - it was only a hundred years ago - some German poet accidentally discovered in rocky cliffs north coast Capri grotto, so magically illuminated by the sun and the waves penetrating it, that Capri immediately became known to the whole world as “the truly promised land of all painters and lovers of Nature”, whose incessant and crowded pilgrimage to “ divine island” has never stopped since then, despite the complete wildness of the island in terms of even the slightest conveniences of life on it and the communication between it and Naples only by sailing boats; only a long time later the first hotel opened on Capri and connected it with Naples by steamship. This message was even up to our time extremely miserable, but from year to year brought to Capri a great number of travelers from all over the world ...

To imagine Capri, one must first of all imagine oneself in Naples, in the middle of the sea, a semicircle, the vast Gulf of Naples, with mountainous shores to the left, with towns whitening along their foot, and the bulk of Vesuvius. Right in front of Naples, in the bay, as if melting in the water blue, two high islands: Ischia and Capri.

Capri "rises from the bosom of the sea like a lying sphinx" or a sunken ship, as others say. Byron compared Capri to a wave driven by a storm. But, to put it simply, this is a giant rock sticking out of the sea, wild in appearance and in some places completely sheer, the ridge of which forms a deep saddle almost in the middle of its small town Capri, its olive orchards and vineyards. Above the terrible rapids of that Caprian coast that faces east, towards the mainland of Italy, towards Cape Minerva, traces of the palace of Tiberius are still preserved, and this cliff is called Monte Tiberio. A West Side The island is crowned by a rocky mountain (Monte Solaro), at half the height of which hangs another town, Anacapri. What is older - Capri or Anacapri - is unknown. Strabo says that both of these cities existed from time immemorial, so perhaps the very name of the island comes from the Phoenician word Kapriam, which means: two cities.

The southern slope of the Capri saddle is called Picola Marina, the northern slope is called Marina Grande. The steamboat, going from Naples to Capri for about two hours at a fairly rapid pace, sticks to the latter. As he approaches the island, the traveler is more and more amazed by the color of the water: this color is a kind of bright precious stone, some marvelous alloy of vitriol and indigo. Then you see a small bay, and on its shore a rocky fishing village, primitive, picturesque in its rough Italian antiquity. From this village you can climb to the saddle of the island in the town of Capri, in two ways: straight, along the steep slope of the funicular, or along the windings of the highway among the vineyards. The beginning of this path passes through the place where the city of Capri stood in antiquity, past the Byzantine church of St. Constanzo, which has existed for one and a half thousand years and is charming in its wretched simplicity, poverty, although it is decorated inside with antique porridge columns. And from the saddle, from the streets of Capri, you can admire two seas at once: on the one hand - the Gulf of Naples, Ischia, Naples, on the other - the open sea, going all the way to the coast of Africa.

When you swim up to Capri, they point to Monte Solaro - there, at the very top, the ruins of the Castle of Barbarossa are miraculously drawn in the sky (“ Eagle Nest Tunisian corsair, who once betrayed the entire Neapolitan region and Capri to fire and sword”), then to those places near the pier where he stood summer palace August. And in the guidebook you will also find something from the history of Capri: the Greeks called Capri the "Island of the Sirens" and established the worship of these cute and treacherous sea creatures on it; since the time of the Romans, it has received a different name - Caprea, that is, Goat Island; Augustus visited him, returning from the Sicilian campaign, and was so captivated by him that he bartered him from the Neapolitan Greeks for the island of Ischia. Looking at Monte Solaro and Anacapri, you also see the famous “Phoenician stairs” leading to Anacapri to the right of the pier: it’s almost a thousand stone steps carved almost vertically into the rocks (precisely, as if by the Phoenicians, who are considered the very first owners of the island). Now Anacapri can be climbed quite easily - along the windings of the highway. But the Anacaprians still prefer their stone staircase to her. This is generally very strange people: from ancient times they lived and live an unusually closed life, completely separate even from the life of the Caprians, almost not communicating with them, speaking their own dialect; among them there are still old men and women who have never been in the city of Capri.

Rising from the pier in a cab or funicular, you go out to a small square, where there is an old turret with a clock and the coat of arms of the Spanish dynasty. It stands on the very edge of the square, above a deep cliff, and from here opens one of the most glorious views in the world - the Gulf of Naples, Naples. Looking there and turning to face the town, you cross the square, enter a narrow street that ends in a rich hotel, once built by Krupp and presented by him to one of his servants, then you go left and exit onto Via Tragara, a road winding along the southern cliffs islands. Here you first pass by a small valley lying on your right, behind the hotel, and descending to the sea; in it, on the site of another palace of Augustus, winter, among shrubs and olive trees, rises the huge skeleton of a six-hundred-year-old Carthusian monastery that has long been empty, its ancient church covered with brown tiles, the walls of the cells, the courtyard overgrown with wild roses and weeds. Further, everything is still wilder and more beautiful: on the one hand, the brilliance of the sun and south sea, on the other - the southern desert of rocks and the impenetrability of shrubs, rising walls into the sky. Some boy who has become attached to you on this road, in a learned muttering, lists its sights: three rocky islands, standing near the coast, known to everyone from Becklin. The Arch of Naturale, the grotto of Mitra, where Tiberius allegedly offered human sacrifices, and many other grottoes, known for the wonderful difference in their colors: in one, everything seems golden yellow, in the other, a transparent green light shimmers, in the third, underwater plants illuminate the walls with something like a purple flame...

The Tiberian road, running from the town of Capri parallel to this one, only not along the cliffs of the mountains, but along the peaks, leads to the most famous place of the island, to the residence of Tiberius. Here you keep climbing, walking along a steep plateau, among farms, villas and vineyards. Gardens, flowers, cypresses, pine trees… In some places there are steps carved in the rocky soil under Augustus, in some places there are worn-out ruts of a stone road along which “slaves once carried Tiberius on a stretcher”… The ruins of his dwelling are huge. The island here breaks off completely vertically above the sea, the deepest abyss. On the cliff itself are the remains of a lighthouse, which in ancient times was considered one of the largest and brightest in the world and illuminated the extremely dangerous path for sailors, because this sea is a rather narrow strait between Capri and the mainland. Closer are the ruins. Height, desert, sun, sky, the sound of the solar wind in wild grasses and ruins. The ruins are a maze of rooms and galleries. The vaults and walls of the first floor and the dungeons under it survived. The center of the palace was the peristyle, surrounded by a colonnade and Caesar's private chambers - some of this has also been preserved ... What was his atrium under Tiberius? Marble ceiling, in the square recesses of which there are bronze rosettes, the edges of the vaults are bordered with bronze. The walls are covered with polished cinnabar and decorated with reliefs of alabaster, representing the Winged Victories in light, flowing tunics, with palm branches in their hands, as well as other drawings: in circles, on a blue field - tragic and comic masks, human passions and delusions, to stone trophies are leaning against pilasters of ivory and old gold - huge bones of antediluvian animals and weapons of ancient, fabulous heroes. Among the trophies, on bronze stands, are precious Corinthian vases, which Augustus collected all his life with great love and taste. Entry thresholds - from white marble and gleaming Egyptian granite, over the veils of these entrances of coarse linen. And now, throwing them back, the incoming one saw after the bright sun a light shadow of the atrium, this marble ceiling, polished cinnabar of the walls, trophies, jambs, vases, a patterned mosaic floor, in the depths - a statue of Augustus, deified by the attributes of Jupiter, in front of it is a semicircular altar of a simple Etruscan style of snow-white marble, a table for offerings covered with a white veil embroidered at the edges with a pattern of leaves, a bronze tripod for the sacred fire ... In these walls, where the careful steps of slaves and courtiers once rustled, Lydian flutes sounded and the laughter of beautiful concubines rang now hides from rains and storms, the cattle of the Capri peasants ...

Suetonius says that in his youth Tiberius was handsome, had an aquiline nose and large eyes that could seem to see even in the dark, tall and strong build, broad shoulders and chest, proportionate parts of the whole body, such strength that he could click to pierce the crown of an adult; only he was unfriendly and pleasant in his youth: he walked with his head bowed to one side, sullenly and silently, and when he spoke, he slowly and difficultly arranged words, helping his speech with a movement of his right hand; and this description of Suetonius corresponds well with the statue of the young Tiberius in the Vatican Museum: he sat firmly and straight, with a scepter in his hand; the bridge of the nose is thin, sharp, which makes the eye sockets seem deep and give the face the expression of a hawk ... In the palace on Capri sat a man who already looked very little like this.

He left Rome forever in the twenty-sixth year of A.D., in order to live the last eleven years of his life almost entirely in Capri, in full accordance with the predictions of astrologers. The whole island was at that time a solid garden, covered with holm oak, the favorite tree of Augustus; from the ledges of the mountains everywhere descended to the sea terraces carved into the rocks; aqueducts were laid on the arches and delivered rainwater to the nymphs, decorated with marble and bronze statues; the climate of the island, its balsamic air, was famous for its health, which the centuries-old Capri elders have proven and still prove in practice; the abundance of all kinds of birds, fish, oysters, lobsters was fabulous; Capri wines were excellent... Tiberius chose Capri both for honorable reasons and because the island reminded him of Greece most of all in a different way: Capri was impregnable, it was difficult to land on it, and it was impossible to bypass the guards, refuge, I always saw not only everything that was happening on the island, but also all the ships passing by the island in all directions ... “He was very old at that time, but in solitude, in freedom for his great debauchery and villainy, and in impregnability He needed the most reliable, like no one on earth ... "He was terrible at that time:" His face was covered with ulcers, it was covered with plasters; the eyes sunk deep; lips, chin become heavy; the neck swelled as if from some unknown poison; the breath became noxious; sight and hearing weakened; speech now gave him extreme, slow, stubborn labor ... and only greed became the only joy of his life ... "

Before his death, he went to Rome. On the way he stopped at Tusculum - he was frightened: his favorite snake, which he always carried with. itself, was eaten by ants. From Tusculum I turned back to Capri. But then a storm and illness delayed him. He stopped at the Pisenne Cape. And at the evening meal he suddenly lost consciousness. He was surrounded by Macron, Caligulla, Drusilla and the physician Charicles. Drusilla removed the sign of his divine power from the insensitive Caesar - a precious gem, the ring of Dioscorides - and handed it to Caligulla. Caesar woke up, asked in a tongue-tied voice: “Where is the ring?” Caligulla was shaking with fear. Macron threw a blanket over Caesar's face and quickly strangled him.

<1932>

Pan Mikholsky's vest

It was in Kyiv in the forties of the last century and was told to many Kievans by Pan Mikholsky himself, and it was retold to us by the writer Yasinsky.

Pan Mikholsky decided to marry. He was then still very young, but already quite reasonable, gravitated towards the company of respectable and secular people, he chose a pretty bride for himself and with a dowry, he made all the preparations for the wedding in detail, decently. And since one of the foundations of a decent life lies in decent equipment, then Pan Mikholsky decided to come before the wedding from his remote district to Kiev in order to sew pantaloons, frock coats, tailcoats and waistcoats for himself. latest fashion. So he did - he arrived and equipped himself to glory, using the advice of a certain count who knew and patronized the young provincial. Before leaving Kyiv, back to his hometown, once Pan Mikholsky came to the count with the intention of spending a pleasant evening and found him in great care about the most thorough toilet. Pan Mikholsky was embarrassed and began to apologize:

Oh, forgive me, dear Count! You seem to be in training somewhere...

Yes, - said the count, - I'm going to Yuzefovich in Lipki. He invited me to visit and, moreover, to a very important person.

What is this person? asked Pan Mikholsky.

Someone Gogol, a writer.

Ah, I know, I've read his stuff.

And I, - said the count, - only heard that he writes, but I didn’t have a chance to read him. Well, does he write well?

Yes, not bad, - answered Pan Mikholsky, - only it is painfully ordinary: no, you know, flight, Byronism ...

Still, we must go,” said the count, sighing. Firstly, one cannot skimp on the invitation of such a person as Yuzefovich, and secondly, this Gogol himself: it turns out that he is in great favor with the sovereign.

Pan Mikholsky was wary:

Ai what are you? Well, you know, that makes a big difference. I myself would be but averse to look at such a noble person.

And if you don't mind, then take a look. Come with me to Lipki.

Please, how is that? Awkward...

Trivia! Yuzefovich is the most hospitable host. I will introduce you to him. Let's go!

And here is the count and Pan Mikholsky in Lipki. And there is already a whole assembly, a secret thrill, the expectation of a distinguished guest. The tea table on the balcony has been ready for a long time, the other guests are crowding, talking quietly, - more and more professors of Kiev University in brand new uniforms - the owner now and then runs out to see if Gogol is coming. But an hour passes, another - Gogol is still gone. Finally, the butler runs: he has arrived! The host rushes to meet them, the professors straighten their tails, line up, lower their hands at the seams ... And here it happens that which Pan Mikholsky later narrated so many times about in the following way:

As I remember now, this same Gogol walked in front of the owner who respectfully followed him, slowly and looking somewhat sideways, frowningly. He had a long nose, long straight hair. He was wearing a frock coat of dark garnet and a dark green waistcoat, along which flies and eyes were red, and yellow spots shone brightly. We all bowed low before him, but he suddenly stopped and, not answering his bows, began to look at one of my persons. The owner recommends:

Professor so-and-so... Professor so-and-so...

He starts nodding his head slightly, muttering:

Very pleasant ... sincerely glad in every sense ... Then the owner invites him to sit down at the table and eat. But he looks squeamishly at tea, at snacks, winces at the setting sun. The owner makes a hasty sign to some young man, he even more hastily rushes to the edge of the balcony and blocks Gogol from the sun. But Gogol does not pay any attention to this either, does not sit down at the table, but continues to look at me, more precisely, at my chest, which on that day was adorned with one of my new and best waistcoats: this waistcoat was also very smart, only it did not look like on the skin of a frog, like a guest from the capital, but on the skin of a chameleon.

It seems to me," he finally said, screwing up his eyes, "it seems to me that I've seen you somewhere before.

I want to answer that, it seems, I did not have such happiness, but the owner threatens me so angrily from behind his back with his finger; that my tongue sticks to my throat. And Gogol continues (and not without poison):

Yes, I saw you somewhere. I will not say that your physiognomy is vividly remembered to me, but nevertheless I saw you. I saw you in some tavern, you were eating onion soup there.

What was I to do? It was already insulting, but of course, I just bow and do not mind anything. Gogol again plunges into silence, looking thoughtfully at the stains of my waistcoat. Then he suddenly gives his host a hand, makes a general bow to everyone else, and heads for the door. The owner is amazed as much as possible, but, of course, he does not dare to hold him back. Gogol leaves, somehow awkwardly moving his legs in narrow gray trousers with wide slippers, and the owner, confused, runs after him, bowing to his back ...

Here, at the conclusion of his story, Pan Mikholsky always grinned slyly.

Tell me now,” he said, “how do you explain to yourself such strange behavior Gogol in Lipki? What was going on in his nature?

They answered him:

But who can know the nature of such a person? Maybe some wonderful idea flashed through his mind, a sharp figure arose in his imagination ...

But Pan Mikholsky shook his head:

No! Neither one nor the other. The casket opened simply: Gogol envied my vest! Yes, yes, honestly! If the count had not brought me to Lipki, Gogol would have eaten tea and talked with all the other guests. But it so happened that I, completely unwittingly, poisoned his life with my vest.

But listen: is it possible?

Yes, it turned out that it is quite possible, and the evidence for this is as follows. The next morning, a Jewish tailor comes running to me in the hotel, with whom I made this waistcoat, the last of its kind, for there was no more velvet of such a design in the city, and almost falls at my feet.

By the grace of God, give me, sir, your waistcoat! Give up for any amount of money! It's pure punishment that you won't get such a vest anywhere else in Kyiv! An important gentleman from the capital came and bought a waistcoat from Gross, and now he saw yours and shouts that you should definitely give him exactly the same as yours! I figure out what's wrong and answer:

What is the name of that gentleman?

The tailor shrugs.

Do I know? And why do you need his last name?

And I already clearly see: well, of course, this is Gogol! And I firmly answer:

No, I will not sell you vests for any money! Although he is Gogol, he does not have such a vest and never will! I, brother, put my vest above any of his "Dead Souls"!

Youth and old age

lovely summer days, calm Black Sea.

The ship is overloaded with people and luggage, - the deck is cluttered from stern to forecastle.

Swimming is long, circular - the Crimea, the Caucasus, the Anatolian coast, Constantinople ...

Hot sun, blue sky, lilac juice; endless stops in crowded ports with a deafening roar of winches, with abuse, with shouts of captain's assistants: mine! vira! - and again calm, order and a leisurely path along the mountain distances, sultryly melting in a sunny haze.

In first class, a cool breeze in the saloon, empty, clean, spacious. And the mud, the tightness in the horde of multi-tribal deck passengers near the hot car and the smelly kitchen, on steam under awnings and on anchor chains, on ropes on the forecastle. There is a thick stench everywhere, sometimes hot and pleasant, sometimes warm and disgusting, but equally exciting, special, steamy, mingling with the freshness of the sea. There are Russian men and women, crests and Khokhlushkas, Athos monks, Kurds, Georgians, Greeks... Kurds, quite a wild people, sleep from morning to evening, Georgians either sing or dance in pairs, bouncing lightly, with coquettish ease throwing back their wide sleeves and floating in the parting crowd, clapping their hands in harmony: tash-tash, tash-tash! Russian pilgrims to Palestine have endless tea drinking, a long man with sagging shoulders, with a narrow yellow beard and straight hair reads the Scriptures aloud, and some defiantly independent woman in a red sweater and a green gauze scarf on black dry clothes keeps sharp eyes on him. hair, sitting alone near the kitchen.

For a long time they stood on the roads in Trebizond. I went ashore and, when I returned, I saw that a whole new gang of ragged and armed Kurds was ascending the gangway - the retinue of an old man walking in front, a large and wide bone in a white kurpei and a gray Circassian coat, tightly belted at the thin waist with a belt with a silver set . The Kurds, who sailed with us and lay in the same deck bridge as a whole herd, all got up and cleared the free space. The retinue of the old man laid a lot of carpets there, laid pillows. The old man reclined regally on this bed. His beard was as white as boiling, his dry face was black from sunburn. And small brown eyes shone with an unusual brilliance.

I approached, squatted down, said "sell", asked in Russian:

From the Caucasus?

He also answered in a friendly manner in Russian:

Where are you sailing?

He answered modestly but proudly:

Istanbul, sir. To the padishah himself. I bring gratitude to the padishah himself, a gift: seven whips. The padishah took seven sons from me for the war, all of them, how many there were. And everyone was killed in the war. Seven times the padishah glorified me.

Tse, tse, tse! - with careless regret, standing over us with a cigarette in his hand, a young, plump, handsome and dandy, a Kerch Greek: a cherry-colored damask fez, a gray frock coat with a white waistcoat, gray fashionable trousers and patent leather shoes fastened with buttons on the side. - So old and one left! he said, shaking his head.

The old man looked at his fez.

What a fool, he replied simply. - Here you will be old, but I am not old and never will be. Do you know about the monkey?

The handsome man smiled incredulously.

What monkey?

Well, listen! God created heaven and earth, you know?

Well, I know.

Then God created man and said to man: you, man, will live thirty years in the world - you will live well, you will rejoice, you will think that God created and made everything in the world only for you alone. Are you satisfied with this? And the man thought: so good, but only thirty years of life! Oh, not enough! Do you hear? asked the old man with a grin.

I hear, - the handsome man answered.

Then God created the donkey and said to the donkey: you will carry waterskins and packs, people will ride on you and beat you on the head with a stick. Are you satisfied with this period? And the donkey sobbed, wept and said to God: why do I need so much? Give me, God, only fifteen years of life. - And add fifteen to me, - the man said to God, - please, add from his share! - And so God did, he agreed. And the man had forty-five years of life. Is it true that the man did well? - asked the old man, looking at the handsome man.

It turned out not bad, - he answered hesitantly, obviously not understanding what all this was for.

Then God created the dog and also gave it thirty years of life. You, God said to the dog, will always live angry, you will guard the master's wealth, you will not trust anyone else, you will lie at passers-by, you will not sleep at night from anxiety. And, you know, the dog even howled: oh, there will be half of such a life from me! And again the man began to ask God: add me this half! And again, God added to him. How old is the person now?

It's become sixty, - said the handsome man more cheerfully.

Well, and then God created a monkey, gave her thirty years of life too, and said that she would live without labor and without care, only she would be very bad-looking, - you know, bald, wrinkled, bare eyebrows climb on her forehead, - and that’s all She will try to be looked at, and everyone will laugh at her.

The handsome man asked:

So, she refused, asked for only half of her life?

And she refused, - said the old man, getting up and taking the mouthpiece of the hookah from the hands of a nearby Kurd.

He was silent and looked somewhere in front of him, as if he had forgotten about us. Then he began to speak, addressing no one:

A man lived his own thirty years like a man - he ate, drank, fought in the war, danced at weddings, loved young women and girls. And for fifteen years he worked as a donkey, amassing wealth. And fifteen dogs kept their wealth, kept lying and getting angry, did not sleep at night. And then he became so ugly, old, like that monkey. And everyone shook their heads and laughed at his old age. That's all this will happen to you, - the old man said mockingly to the handsome man, rolling the mouthpiece of the hookah in his teeth.

Why don't you have this? - asked the handsome man.

Not with me.

Why is this?

There are few like me,” the old man said firmly. - I was not a donkey, I was not a dog - why should I be a monkey? Why should I be old?

Returning to Rome

He died near Nicea, returning from Gaul to Rome.

It was expected that the new war would be long, difficult and, perhaps, fatal for him: fate was always merciful to him, but this was already the ninth campaign in his life, and an unkind sign was attributed to the number nine. Nevertheless, the war again turned out to be happy, even happier and shorter than all the previous ones: the enemy was struck by blows so well-aimed that, with all its faith in the star of its leader, the victorious army itself was amazed: and before that, one kind of him, with each his appearance before her shook her with delight; now, when, at farewell reviews in Gaul, the formidable splendor of the golden eagle slowly moved along the military ranks and this always quiet and sad man with a sallow, badly shaven face walked under its shadow, people turned deathly pale, felt as if on the edge of an abyss, and then burst into such passionate cries as if they were possessed by a demon.

After the end of the war, he made a trip to Spain for state purposes: extraordinary indefatigability was combined with his bodily weakness. And the trip was also quite prosperous and fruitful. late autumn, with a small detachment and a few close associates, he returned to Rome. were cool, bright days. Walked by the sea. As always, he was silent and impassive, his face gray and thin. Yet his health did not inspire fear in anyone during this peaceful journey along the blue bays and crimson coasts. But now, one passage to Nicea, he suddenly lost his voice, felt such a loss of strength that they hurried to stop at the first villa they came across.

She suited the occasion perfectly. It was the famous Hearth, known throughout Rome, thanks to the glorious name of its owner and its noble beauty. The deserted cape jutted far into the sea. It was completely covered with the silvery green of a stunted pine forest. The house, which stood in this forest, was vast and simple, white with marble walls, shining with thin glass of large windows, surrounded by flower beds, fiery distances. After the departure of the owner, the villa was empty, and only the manager met the unexpected guests. They politely asked for shelter from him.

Soon, having taken a bath and refreshing drink, he was left alone. His bed was placed in such a way that on one side he had a view of the sea rising behind round pine tops, and on the other to the Gulf of Nice and the misty, distant pallor of the Alps, rising lifelessly to the sky with their snows, like great tombs. It was evening, cold foggy. In the desolate expanse of the drowsily agitated sea there was hopelessness, aimlessness, a sad mystery. The white crests of the waves rose and fell steadily. The tops of the pines, clean and cold, clearly visible through the panes, rustled thickly and resoundingly. Two lamps trembled evenly near the bed with a wax flame. And under this trembling and ringing coniferous noise, he fell into a deep sleep. When I woke up, it was already a black night. The sea rustled in her silence more audibly and solemnly, as if approaching. The lamps flowed and shone; their tongues, now golden, clear, with an azure base, quivering, stretched upward. And, rising, leaning against the headboard, he fixed his gaze on the panes blackened before him. The sea rustled closer and clearer, and the ever-increasing coniferous noise interfered with it. He contemplated and listened to this black night element that surrounded him. He knew that his hour was at hand. Making an effort, he sat up a little higher and, taking everything he needed for writing from the bedside table, he began to write slowly but firmly.

He wrote until dawn. He made the last state orders and expressed some of his dying thoughts. He said this: my name will outlive me, people will worship my golden and marble images, perhaps for many more centuries, for in a great man, or at least invested with greatness, we honor the concentration of those high forces that are contained to some extent in each of us. He said that Socrates, calling on a person to know "himself", had in mind the knowledge of the features, vices or virtues contained in a person, but the search for and awakening in oneself that "divine", which is the true essence of man. When it began to turn white outside the windows, the lights of the lamps turned yellow and the morning haze that came from the calming sea surrounded the house with solid whiteness, he lay down and covered his face with his marching cloak, surrendering to the fate of all mortals.

Electronic Library of Yabluchansky . On Capri there is the "Azure Grotto", on Capri Tiberius lived in antiquity, and in the last suit Krupp, famous for his cannons and some deeds, r of which he imitated Tiberius and which forced him in the end to resort to suicide ... Here, it seems, everything that is generally known about Capri. Some people also know that this marvelous island was once under the rule of the barbarians, then the Greeks, the Normans ... Historians and archaeologists remembered it relatively recently. They violated its centuries-old silence, peace, began excavations and the great plunder of its ancient values. These valuables turned out to be lying in the land of Capri at almost every step: the peasants, in whose vineyards they were found every now and then, gave everything to anyone, for a pittance, allowed them to take out whole barks ... Then - it was only a hundred years ago - what a German poet accidentally discovered a grotto in the rocky cliffs of the northern coast of Capri, so magically illuminated by the sun and the waves penetrating it, that Capri immediately became known to the whole world as "the truly promised land of all painters and lovers of Nature", whose incessant and crowded pilgrimage to the "divine island" has never stopped since then, despite the complete wildness of the island in the sense of even the slightest comforts of life on it and the communication between it and Naples only by sailing boats; only a long time later the first hotel opened on Capri and connected it with Naples by steamship. Even to our time, this message was extremely miserable, but from year to year brought to Capri a great number of travelers from all over the world ... To imagine Capri, you must first of all imagine yourself in Naples, in the middle of the sea, a semicircle, the huge Gulf of Naples , with mountainous shores to the left, with towns whitening along their foot, and the bulk of Vesuvius. Directly in front of Naples, in the bay, two high islands seem to melt in the blue water: Ischia and Capri. Capri "rises from the bosom of the sea like a lying sphinx" or a sunken ship, as others say. Byron compared Capri to a wave driven by a storm. But, to put it more simply, this is a giant rock sticking out of the sea, wild in appearance and in some places completely sheer, the ridge of which forms a deep saddle almost in the middle of it, which gave shelter to the small town of Capri, its olive orchards and vineyards. Above the terrible rapids of that Caprian coast that faces east, towards the mainland of Italy, towards Cape Minerva, traces of the palace of Tiberius are still preserved, and this cliff is called Monte Tiberio. And the western part of the island is crowned with a rocky mountain (Monte Solaro), at half the height of which hangs another town, Anacapri. What is older - Capri or Anacapri - is unknown. Strabo says that both of these cities existed from time immemorial, so perhaps the very name of the island comes from the Phoenician word Kapriam, which means: two cities. The southern slope of the Capri saddle is called Picola Marina, the northern slope is called Marina Grande. The steamboat, going from Naples to Capri for about two hours at a fairly rapid pace, sticks to the latter. As he approaches the island, the traveler is more and more amazed by the color of the water: this color is a kind of bright gem, some kind of marvelous alloy of vitriol and indigo. Then you see a small bay, and on its shore a rocky fishing village, primitive, picturesque in its rough Italian antiquity. From this village you can climb to the saddle of the island in the town of Capri, in two ways: straight, along the steep slope of the funicular, or along the windings of the highway among the vineyards. The beginning of this path passes through the place where the city of Capri stood in antiquity, past the Byzantine church of St. Constanzo, which has existed for one and a half thousand years and is charming in its wretched simplicity, poverty, although it is decorated inside with antique porridge columns. And from the saddle, from the streets of Capri, you can admire two seas at once: on the one hand - the Gulf of Naples, Ischia, Naples, on the other - the open sea, going all the way to the coast of Africa. When you swim up to Capri, they point to Monte Solaro - there, at the very top, the ruins of the Castle of Barbarossa are miraculously drawn in the sky ("the eagle's nest of the Tunisian corsair, who once betrayed the entire Neapolitan region and Capri to fire and sword"), then to those places near the pier where the summer palace of Augustus stood. And in the guide you will find something from the history of Capri: the Greeks called Capri "Isle of the Sirens" and established the worship of these cute and treacherous sea creatures on it; since the time of the Romans, it has received a different name - Caprea, that is, Goat Island; Augustus visited him, returning from the Sicilian campaign, and was so captivated by him that he bartered him from the Neapolitan Greeks for the island of Ischia. Looking at Monte Solaro and Anacapri, you also see the famous "Phoenician stairs" leading to Anacapri to the right of the pier: it is almost a thousand stone steps carved almost vertically into the rocks (precisely, as if by the Phoenicians, who are considered the very first owners of the island). Now Anacapri can be climbed quite easily - along the windings of the highway. But the Anacaprians still prefer their stone staircase to her. In general, this is a very strange people: from ancient times they lived and live an unusually closed life, completely separate even from the life of the Capri, almost not communicating with them, speaking their own dialect; among them there are still old men and women who have never been in the city of Capri. Rising from the pier in a cab or funicular, you go out to a small square, where there is an old turret with a clock and the coat of arms of the Spanish dynasty. It stands on the very edge of the square, above a deep cliff, and from here opens one of the most glorious views in the world - the Gulf of Naples, Naples. Looking there and turning to face the town, you cross the square, enter a narrow street that ends in a rich hotel, once built by Krupp and presented by him to one of his servants, then you go left and exit onto Via Tragara, a road winding along the southern cliffs islands. Here you first pass by a small valley lying on your right, behind the hotel, and descending to the sea; in it, on the site of another palace of Augustus, winter, among shrubs and olive trees, rises the huge skeleton of a six-hundred-year-old Carthusian monastery that has long been empty, its ancient church covered with brown tiles, the walls of the cells, the courtyard overgrown with wild roses and weeds. Further, everything is still wilder and more beautiful: on the one hand, the brilliance of the sun and the southern sea, on the other, the southern desert of rocks and the impenetrability of bushes rising like walls into the sky. Some boy who has become attached to you on this road, in a learned muttering, lists its sights: three rocky islands, standing near the coast, known to everyone from Becklin. The Arch of Naturale, the grotto of Mitra, where Tiberius allegedly offered human sacrifices, and many other grottoes, known for the wonderful difference in their colors: in one, everything seems golden yellow, in the other, a transparent green light shimmers, in the third, underwater plants illuminate the walls with something like a purple flame ... The Tiberian road, which runs parallel to this from the town of Capri, only not along the cliffs of the mountains, but along the peaks, leads to the most famous place of the island, to the residence of Tiberius. Here you keep climbing, walking along a steep plateau, among farms, villas and vineyards. Gardens, flowers, cypresses, pine trees... Here and there are steps carved in the rocky soil under Augustus, in some places there are worn-out ruts of a stone road along which "slaves once carried Tiberius on a stretcher"... The ruins of his dwelling are huge. The island here breaks off over the sea in a completely sheer, deepest abyss. On the cliff itself are the remains of a lighthouse, which in ancient times was considered one of the largest and brightest in the world and illuminated the extremely dangerous path for sailors, because this sea is a rather narrow strait between Capri and the mainland. Closer are the ruins. Height, desert, sun, sky, the sound of the solar wind in wild grasses and ruins. The ruins are a maze of rooms and galleries. The vaults and walls of the first floor and the dungeons under it survived. The center of the palace was the peristyle, surrounded by a colonnade and Caesar's private chambers - some of all this has also been preserved ... What was its atrium under Tiberius? Marble ceiling, in the square recesses of which there are bronze rosettes, the edges of the vaults are bordered with bronze. The walls are covered with polished cinnabar and decorated with reliefs of alabaster, representing the Winged Victories in light, flowing tunics, with palm branches in their hands, as well as other drawings: in circles, on a blue field - tragic and comic masks, human passions and delusions, to stone trophies are leaning against pilasters of ivory and old gold - huge bones of antediluvian animals and weapons of ancient, fabulous heroes. Among the trophies, on bronze stands, are precious Corinthian vases, which Augustus collected all his life with great love and taste. Thresholds of entrances - from white marble and shining Egyptian granite, on veils of these entrances from a rough linen. And now, throwing them back, the incoming one saw after the bright sun a light shadow of the atrium, this marble ceiling, polished cinnabar of the walls, trophies, jambs, vases, a patterned mosaic floor, in the depths - a statue of Augustus, deified by the attributes of Jupiter, in front of it is a semicircular altar of a simple Etruscan style of snow-white marble, a table for offerings covered with a white blanket embroidered at the edges with a pattern of leaves, a bronze tripod for the sacred fire ... In these walls, where the cautious steps of slaves and courtiers once rustled, Lydian flutes sounded and the laughter of beautiful concubines rang now the cattle of the Caprian peasants take refuge from rains and storms ... Suetonius says that in his youth Tiberius was handsome, had an aquiline nose and large eyes that could supposedly see even in the dark, tall and strong build - shoulders and chest wide, parts of the whole body proportionate, - the strength is such that it could pierce the crown of an adult with a click; only he was unfriendly and pleasant in his youth: he walked with his head bowed to one side, sullenly and silently, and when he spoke, he slowly and difficultly arranged words, helping his speech with a movement of his right hand; and this description of Suetonius corresponds well with the statue of the young Tiberius in the Vatican Museum: he sat firmly and straight, with a scepter in his hand; the bridge of the nose is thin, sharp, which makes the eye sockets seem deep and give the face the expression of a hawk. .. In the palace on Capri sat a man who already looked very little like this. He left Rome forever in the twenty-sixth year of A.D., in order to live the last eleven years of his life almost entirely in Capri, in full accordance with the predictions of astrologers. The whole island was at that time a solid garden, covered with holm oak, the favorite tree of Augustus; from the ledges of the mountains everywhere descended to the sea terraces carved into the rocks; aqueducts were laid on the arches and delivered rainwater to the nymphs, decorated with marble and bronze statues; the climate of the island, its balsamic air, was famous for its health, which the centuries-old Capri elders have proven and still prove in practice; the abundance of all kinds of birds, fish, oysters, lobsters was fabulous; the wines of Capri were excellent... The choice of Tiberius settled on Capri both for honorable reasons and because the island reminded him of Greece most of all in a different way: Capri was impregnable, it was difficult to land on it, and it was impossible to bypass the guard, heights of his refuge, he always saw not only everything that was happening on the island, but also all the ships passing by the island in all directions ... "He was very old at that time, but in solitude, in freedom for his great debauchery and villainy and the most reliable impregnability needed, like no one on earth ... "He was terrible at that time:" His face was covered with ulcers, it was covered with plasters; his eyes sunk deep; his lips, chin became heavy; unknown poison; breathing became deadly; sight and hearing weakened; speech now gave him extreme, slow, stubborn labor ... and only greed became the only joy of his life ... "Before his death, he went to Rome. On the way he stopped at Tusculum - he was frightened: his favorite snake, which he always carried with. itself, was eaten by ants. From Tusculum I turned back to Capri. But then a storm and illness delayed him. He stopped at the Pisenne Cape. And at the evening meal he suddenly lost consciousness. He was surrounded by Macron, Caligulla, Drusilla and the physician Charicles. Drusilla removed the sign of his divine power from the insensitive Caesar - a precious gem, the ring of Dioscorides - and handed it to Caligulla. Caesar woke up, asked tongue-tied: "Where is the ring?" Caligulla was shaking with fear. Macron Sprinkled a blanket over Caesar's face and quickly strangled him. <1932>

Odysseus sent some of his friends to the dwelling of the nymph to take the body of Elpenor from there. The rest, meanwhile, were cutting wood for a fire, and when the body was brought, they burned it together with armor, erected a high burial mound above it and, at the request of the deceased, hoisted an oar on that mound. As soon as Circe learned that Odysseus and his friends had returned from the world of shadows, she came to the ship and brought bread, wine and meat to the guests. “All day long,” she said to them, “enjoy food and drink, tomorrow at dawn set off. I will show you the way and announce everything that can happen to you, so that you, due to your foolishness, do not suffer new troubles at sea or dry." They feasted all day, and in the morning they set out. The beautifully curly goddess sent them a fair wind, and the ship calmly sailed, obeying the helm and the wind. Odysseus told his companions about everything that Circe had predicted to him.

Odysseus at the island of the Sirens. Attic vase, ca. 480-470 BC

First of all, they had to sail past the island of sweet-sounding sirens. These nymphs with their wonderful songs enchant anyone who approaches their shore on a fast ship, they will make everyone forget about their dear homeland, about their wife and children; enchanted, the sailor hurries to moor to the island of the Sirens, where certain death awaits him and the smoldering bones of unfortunate sailors, carried away by crafty maidens, lie in heaps. And Odysseus and his companions must avoid the Sirens and keep farther from the flowery shores of their island. Only Odysseus, said Circe, can listen to the singers.

Odysseus and the Sirens. Painting by J. W. Waterhouse, 1891

And when the ship approached the island of the Sirens, Odysseus, remembering the advice of Circe, covered his companions' ears with wax and ordered them to tie himself to the mast so that he could not throw himself into the sea and swim to the fatal shore. The favorable wind instantly subsided and a wide, unshakably smooth sea stretched out before the Achaeans. Then the Odyssey companions took off their sails and took up the oars. At the same time, the sirens on the island sang their wondrous song:

To us, God-equal Odysseus, the great glory of the Achaeans,
Come to us with the ship, enjoy the sweet singing of the sirens:
Here no sailor passes with his ship.
Without listening to heart-sweet singing in our meadow;
Whoever heard us, he returns to the house. Knowing a lot.
We know everything that happened in the Trojan land and what
The fate, by the will of the immortals, befell the Trojans and Achaeans.
We all know what is going on in the bosom of the multi-talented earth.

Fascinated by the marvelous sounds of the siren song, Odysseus did not want to sail further. He rushed to the sirens on the island and begged his comrades with signs to set him free. But, in obedience to the command given to them before, they tied Odysseus even more tightly to the mast, hit the oars and rowed even harder, until the island of the Sirens was left far behind.

Odysseus and the Sirens. Painting by G. Draper, ca. 1909