Road trip to Georgia report. To Georgia by car. Preparation, road, hotels, cuisine, wine. Guide. Encounters on the way

How the journey started

The idea of ​​traveling in our family was born a few years ago. Apparently fate wanted us to visit Georgia. More and more often I came across photographs of Gergeti, the visiting card of Georgia, I often heard stories of colleagues and acquaintances about trips, in the spring of 2015 close friends visited there. In social networks, I subscribed to several groups telling about trips to this beautiful country, which inspired me even more. And so it was decided - Georgia! Vacation in late August - early September 2015. Format - road trip. We chose this method, because. several times a year we go to our beloved Crimea, the road does not bother us, and the car allowed long comfortable travel. In addition, I wanted to see the country, which implies the maximum number of movements. What is new for us is that in advance we did not plan the exact route and places of residence at all. This is really the first time, we decided to decide on the spot. As a result, they did not lose, it is interesting, exciting and, of course, a little adventurous. In order to be safe, they even took a tent and other camping accessories with them.

Things you took with you

The main thing is a large trunk, which is very useful. Things for different weather. The windbreaker came in handy. Trekking shoes, because We were going to climb Kazbegi. First aid kit with obligatory "Mezim" from overeating. A camera, a laptop, a tablet, adapters for transferring photos, a logbook (a notebook for me as a navigator). Bathing accessories, because We were planning to go to the sea. Sunscreens. Camping equipment: tent, sleeping bags, mattress, table, dishes, gas burner with cylinder. And of course - a positive attitude and anticipation of a wonderful journey.

Places you planned to visit

Tbilisi, Batumi, Sighnaghi, Mtskheta, Jvari Monastery, Gergeti Church

Route

Kirov - Vladikavkaz - Stepantsminda - Ananuri - Mtskheta - Sighnaghi - Alazani Valley - Tbilisi - Jvari - Inguri Hydroelectric Power Station - Kobuleti - Batumi - Turkey - Martvili Canyon - Prometheus Cave near Kutaisi - Chateau Mukhrani - Stepantsminda - Vladikavkaz - Elista - Kirov

Travel must-haves

Almost all places are registered in the route. From what we did not have time: Akhaltsikhe, highland villages in Svaneti, sights of Batumi.

1. Food and drink - try Khachapuri, khinkali, wine
2. Souvenirs - decorative plates we bring from each of our trips, this is a mandatory item on the program

Reaching the destination

Mountains!!! The feeling that it captures the spirit arose even before the border with Georgia, at the entrance. The famous Georgian Military Highway starts from Vladikavkaz. Gorgeous landscapes, the mighty Terek to the left of the road and the expectation that there, on the other side of the border, there will be something even more exciting ... And it really is! The mountains conquered at first sight. I can state with full responsibility that in my travel preferences, the mountains have replaced the sea from the first position. If you choose - I will choose the mountains

Places visited

Stepantsminda, Arch of Friendship of Peoples, Ananuri, Mtskheta, Sighnaghi, Alazani Valley, Tbilisi, Jvari, Gudauri, Inguri Hydroelectric Power Station, Kobuleti, Batumi, Martvili Canyon, Prometheus Cave near Kutaisi, Chateau Mukhrani

The main surprise of the trip

On the advice of a very good person, we went to Kakheti, the Alazani Valley, to the Graneli winery. They asked to show us the plant. Just two people came in from the street and wanted to see the plant. And what would you think? A nice man came to us. Zurab. Commercial director of the enterprise. To us, two tourists who came out of nowhere, on a day off. And he gave us a real tour, an industrial tour of the wine and cognac factories.

He spoke about the intricacies of the process, about raw materials, equipment, personnel, export policy and much, much more. Then he took me to the tasting room and personally conducted a tasting for me (my husband was driving)!

We certainly did not expect such an attitude. Of course, we bought wine there, very, very tasty wine. We left a comment in the wish book.

What first dish or drink did you try?

At the foot of the mountain, on which the Gergeti Holy Trinity Church flaunts, there is an unremarkable cafe, from which the hiking route of climbing the mountain begins. Here were the first khachapuri and khinkali. Here we realized that in Georgia it would be incredibly tasty.

Encounters on the way

The brightest meeting took place in Sighnaghi. And we are very glad that we did not look for and did not book accommodation in advance, otherwise this meeting would not have happened. So, Sighnaghi, in the afternoon, we are looking for an apartment. Reviewed several options, something is not right. Tired. We ate at a restaurant overlooking the Alazani valley. Looking for more. It was the longest search for accommodation of the entire trip. We drive along the observation deck, on the right - a gorgeous view, on the left - a house with a terrace on which flags of various countries hang. American - the largest, caught my eye. Written - rooms for rent. We decided - if there is a Russian flag - let's go. Flag saw, very small truth. We parked, climb the stairs, we are met by a man and a woman of retirement age, but in full bloom. We find out that there are free places. The first question for us is where are you from? Answer: Russia, Kirov. The owner cried out in surprise: Kirov!!!??? And he begins to explain, repeating: Kirov. Yuria. Yuria!!! With an emphasis on the letter Yu. In general, this meeting determined our stay in this wonderful hospitable house for 2 days.

And we were really welcomed like family. Soso and Tsitso, our Georgian parents, one might say))) Soso served in Yuria in the missile unit back in the 60s. He remembers with pleasure, shares stories about army everyday life. Tsitso shares recipes that I take on a pencil. Over a cup of tea, we chat on the terrace until late in the evening. In the morning before leaving, Tsitso invites us to the kitchen and feeds us breakfast, which is closer to lunch, and maybe dinner. We buy wine and chacha from Soso at some ridiculous prices. We promise to return. Upon our return, we learn that acquaintances from Kirov are going to Georgia, we send Soso and Tsitso souvenirs and a large panel of the Russian flag. In response, already in October, they bring us a whole package of goodies from Tsitso. It's so cool, so nice!!!

We brought wine with us. Lots of wine. Lots of wine. Only because they were driving. Having visited the Graneli winery and having bought everything after tasting, we decided to arrange my Georgian birthday at home and treat friends with Georgian national drinks and goodies according to the recipe of the wonderful Tsitso.

And the most "crazy" shopping was for a bottle of chacha by the famous Georgian manufacturer Chateau Mukhrani. This tea was ordered for me. And we couldn't find it in stores. On the last day, returning from the Martvili canyon and Prometheus caves, we tried to make it to the Chateau and buy this chacha at the factory. They called, found out the closing time, searched for this Chateau, got lost, ran at a run, ... but did not make it before closing time. As a result, we bought this chacha in a small shop in a neighboring village, before that we stopped by a couple of similar supermarkets, causing questions from the police. Plus, they didn’t accept cards in this store, I had to drive around the neighborhood in search of an ATM. As a result - a lot of impressions, hysterical laughter and chacha, which was delivered to a very good person who ordered it. Chacha, by the way, is very expensive by those standards - something like 1000 rubles. But, it is clearly inferior in taste to Soso chacha for 5 lari (150 rubles) from a 20-year-old oak barrel.

Swap meet

In Tbilisi there is a so-called flea market on the Dry Bridge. In a guide book that a very good person sent me before the trip, it was written: “I like to walk around the flea market by the dry bridge. I buy all sorts of unnecessary garbage there. So we decided to walk there for half an hour, passing through. My friends! It is something! What is half an hour? We spent three hours there, if we didn’t have to leave Tbilisi, we would have stayed there. This market is not just a collection of various "antiquities", although they are also very interesting. This market is a collection of people, stories, memories… For example, we talked to the saleswoman of a huge collection of coasters. Did you know that somewhere in Europe there is a whole big museum of these things? Now you know.

She is Russian, she came to Tbilisi back in the days of the USSR with her husband, a pilot, who died during some kind of test flights. Left alone with two daughters in a foreign country. Although ... the country and the city have become native. Children live in Europe (Italy, Austria), call to themselves, but cannot decide. The heart is here in Tbilisi.

The longest walk

Perhaps it was a mistake and now we would not repeat it, but this is one of the most vivid impressions. We arrived in Georgia early in the morning, got to Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), ate. We were off the road. Almost two days in a sitting position and without proper sleep. But the mountains beckoned. There, high, against the backdrop of the majestic Kazbek towered the temple of the Holy Trinity.

The temple, which is on almost all postcards from Georgia. How could we miss these views? No way! Why didn't we go up the mountain in jeeps? After all, they offered. - Don't know. I just don't know. The owner of the cafe where we had lunch showed two paths up the mountain - steep, but short, and gentle, but longer. They chose a flat one and they were right. They simply would not have climbed into a steep one. Went. The sun, it's hot, there's a cliff on the left. I'm afraid of heights. Our legs are like numb from a car seat. The breather doesn't work. We stop every 50 meters. We photograph the surrounding beauty every 20 meters. You know, 150 km of the Velikaya River Cross Procession was physically easier for us than an hour and a half ascent to Gergeti. Was it worth it? Definitely yes! The church, already at the top, has a spring. At the foot of the mountain lies Stepantsminda. The breeze picked up, a little rain and a feeling of happiness from the conquered peak and the fact that we got to a country that will definitely take one of the most beautiful places in our travel calendar. We descended along a short but steep route. It is very difficult. We recommend not to go along it or not to go at all, but to go. And of course, thanks to our Solomon trekking shoes, it would have been even more difficult without them. Although you should not be afraid of this mountain, it will submit to both unprepared and tired tourists like us.

Food - where is the best food?

I think Georgian housewives feed the best. Lucky for those who get to the Georgian feast, and if they also have songs and dances, then it’s a holiday in general. We have been to many famous and not so famous places. Tasty - almost everywhere. Come on, try it. Of the very best:

In the shadow of Metekhi (Tbilisi), Armazi Tskaro (Mtskheta), Georgian Court (Mtskheta).

What dangers await tourists?

Nowhere else have we felt so safe. One fact - we decided to spend the night in a tent near the Martvili canyon, alone, without a single soul nearby, in the mountains. We set up a tent in the dark practically, because. arrived late. Not scary!

The main danger on our way was a sleeping black horse, which appeared in the night on a mountain road in front of the car after a sharp turn. She got on our nerves! Everything worked out, we did not disturb her sleep, no one was hurt.

Of course, there may be negative impressions from some local residents. But! During the whole trip we met only one such person. This is a shepherd who was chasing two sheep in Stepantsminda. He did not want to speak Russian with us. They offered English, I was surprised that we know. And then there was a monologue about how bad Russia is, that it took away half of the country from them, etc. I did not argue with him, I politely wished him good health and said that we had come to visit their beautiful country.

All the other nicest people we met on our way were very, I repeat - VERY friendly towards us, towards Russia. They know how to separate politics from the life of ordinary people and the historical friendship of peoples. I think a lot of people will learn from this.

Homecoming

You know, immediately after our return, we began to think about the need to go to Georgia again. We excitedly told our friends about the trip, and infected them too. We celebrated my birthday in Georgian style - and it was unforgettable. I learned how to cook khachapuri! And now this is my signature dish. Mom, with Internet tips, learned how to cook khinkali. Svan salt has become our favorite seasoning. And I'm ready to listen to Mgzavrebi's songs as often as possible.

With all the relative cheapness of Georgia, of course, you can go both more economically and more luxuriously. The trip can be planned according to your wallet, Georgia allows it. We believe that this is one of our budget trips. And according to the budget, it definitely wins over our resorts in the Crimea or the Krasnodar Territory.

Already recommended, infected with the “travel virus”. Many of my friends on social networks wrote that thanks to my photos and posts, they also wanted to visit Georgia. And I know those who are planning a trip this summer, and I am happy to share the route and impressions.

Georgia is an automobile and tourist paradise, which has incredible nature and mountains, majestic monasteries and temples, delicious cuisine and hospitality.

Foreword and preparation

For a long time we had planned to go on a trip with my husband, and more and more often looked at Georgia. In order not to be bored, we decided to take a couple more friends with us - it’s more fun and safer on the road. I really wanted to look at Kazbek, swim in the warm sea and drink plenty of Georgian wine. And in general - well, who has not heard of Georgian hospitality?

The issue of flying by plane was immediately dismissed - the prices for air tickets were very biting. At that time, tickets cost about $ 300 round-trip for one, and for four people the cost of the trip was quite serious. In total, a little more than 2 thousand rubles were spent on gasoline - this is with a consumption of 10 liters on the highway and the cost of gasoline is 35 rubles per liter.

Georgia is a country where Ukrainians are always welcome. There are no visa problems for citizens of Ukraine, all that was required documented was foreign passports. True, since we had to go through the territory of Russia, we also needed insurance for a car.

We drive our BMW X5 quite often, but this is the first time we have decided to go so far. To Georgia, in total, it turned out almost 2000 km in one direction: 503 km to Kharkov, then 125 km to the border, 1300 km - through Russia, everything else - through Georgia. Since we had two experienced drivers with us, we were not particularly worried about this.

The departure was scheduled for June 26 - it was decided that we would spend a day with friends in Kharkov, and from there we would start to Georgia, and we would spend a total of two weeks on wheels, returning to Kiev on July 11. After studying the reviews and travel reports, we decided on the road: Kyiv - Kharkov - Stary Saltov - Chugunovka - Rostov-on-Don - Mineralnye Vody - Nalchik - Vladikavkaz - Georgia.

The route we decided to take

The road to Kharkov - ahead of Russia

We got to Kharkov quickly - six hours of a quiet ride. Then we were met by friends, and we went for a walk. Since my husband and I were in the second capital of Ukraine for the first time, we liked everything very much. A hot summer day - a huge number of fountains, but such that it captures the spirit, and the hand itself reaches for the camera.

Crystal fountains of Kharkov

Unfortunately, we didn't have time to explore other sights, so we only had time to wander around the city and have a tasty snack at the Nasha Dacha restaurant on Batumi Street. At five o'clock in the evening, together with friends, we moved out towards our adventure.

Previously, everyone calmly traveled through the Donbass, but in connection with the current situation, it was decided to use a small checkpoint in the Kharkiv region. We had to drive 125 km on a terrible road, but we were rewarded by the absence of a queue. There were few cars, so customs passed quickly enough. Completed migration cards and a customs declaration (required for a car) - and we are in Russia.

Important: Particular attention should be paid to the fact that both in Russia and in Georgia there is a lot of glass (we are talking about the front). Of course, we didn't want to damage the car, so we decided to take a chance and just rolled down the windows, passing through checkpoints.

Rostov-on-Don, we drove along the ring road (it was already deep evening), and then there was a night crossing (with a change of drivers and stops for coffee and just rest) through Vladikavkaz. Upper Lars passed closer to the morning, about four in the morning.

It should be noted that the border does not work around the clock, so it's worth driving there by five o'clock - just in time for the opening. We stood for a long time, about three hours, but it was worth it - we got a wonderful opportunity to admire the first amazing landscapes. To cross the border, we recommend that you study the forums and thematic sites.

Two tunnels - and we are in the long-awaited Georgia. Meet Sakartvelo!

Georgian beauty without embellishment

Holy Trinity - a monastery where you must visit

The first on our way was the village of Stepantsminda, we had to drive only a few kilometers. And to say that it was a shock - to say nothing! If you have a crazy idea to go around this place - do not give in.

Of course, we were tired, but such beauty opened up a second wind - and we could not hold back the enthusiastic oohs-ahs.

Gergeti - Kazbegi's lullaby

The purpose of our trip to these places was, of course, the majestic Kazbek and Gergetis Tsminda Sameba, in other words, the Monastery of the Holy Trinity.

Of course, we did not dare to drive our car, since there are practically no roads there, and only local off-road vehicles, which are not afraid of anything, can drive through. We decided not to use the services of hot horsemen, but to walk, especially since it was only three kilometers up.

So, passing through the village of Gergeti, we rushed into the forest, and after two hours we were rewarded with a breathtaking spectacle.

The opened view strikes at the very heart of even the most severe and experienced traveler - and what can we say about such impressionable persons as my friend and I?

First you find yourself in an open space, similar to the possessions of the Lord of the Rings. In the center stands a majestic church, it offers a view confirming that the Lord really blessed Georgia. We heard the legend that Kazbek only shows his peak to good people - fortunately, we managed to see it.

What surprised me personally - in such beauty there were absolutely free tents. I, a child of the asphalt jungle, was amazed, because in our travels we got used to having to pay for a more or less pleasant view (not to mention the opportunity to put up a tent).

Local source of holy water

Having enjoyed enough, we went downstairs, found an overnight stay (10 dollars per person), settled down to rest and assimilate the impressions received. Yes, I almost forgot about the magnificent dinner - khinkali and khachapuri were simply divine

Tbilisi, meet!

The next morning we set off along the most picturesque road to Tbilisi. Having found accommodation for ourselves in advance - the Lux hotel on the outskirts of the city right on the Georgian Military Highway - we were pleasantly surprised by its cost: the room cost $ 25 (hotel page on Booking).

The Lux Hotel where we planned to stay I

Having traveled about half the way and taking plenty of pictures with mountain views, we saw another attraction - the Ananuri fortress. I was struck by the grandeur of this fortress, it became clear why Georgia constantly suffered from the invaders.

Ananuri - a pearl fortress

Arriving in the capital, we settled in and decided to go to Mtskheta - the most ancient capital of Georgia, in which there is a Jvari monastery. It is a romantic place loved by all.

The confluence of two rivers is the best place for a monastery

Since Mtskheta is located very close to Tbilisi (literally in its suburbs), we got there very quickly and stayed there for a long time. You can walk endlessly in this city, and local guides in the Svetitskhoveli temple made this walk unforgettable.

After admiring the confluence of two rivers - the majestic Aragvi and the bright Kura in the monastery, we decided to go to the Mtatsminda park, where we ended the evening enjoying the national cuisine in the restaurant. The cuisine, wine, and hospitality of Georgians is a completely separate story, about which entire volumes can be written.

In the ancient capital of Mtatsminda

The next day, the famous Tbilisi baths awaited us (choose the Royal baths - you will not regret it!), Which were inexpensive. We had to pay something like 60 GEL per person. We decided not to be greedy, and ordered the services of a bath attendant for 10 GEL. And what incomparable tea and dogwood jam were - beyond words.

Then we just walked, admiring this ancient city. Narikala Fortress, Peace Bridge, Puppet Theater, the famous Sameba - and this is a small part of what we managed to admire.

Sameba - the pride of Georgia

Sameba Cathedral

Bridge of Peace connecting hearts

Puppet show

We wanted to ride on a motor ship - at our disposal for 25 GEL each, there was a boat with an excellent guide to boot. The evening ended in khinkalnaya - but where else?

City view from Mtatsminda park

Sameba at night is especially exciting

In the morning we were forced to part with the Warm City (this is how Tbilisi is translated) - our path lay in Borjomi.

Arriving there and renting a room-room on the advice of the locals, we unpacked our things and went for a walk in the park. We went to Old Borjomi - the most famous and delicious restaurant in the city, where they cook amazing and special khachapuri according to a secret recipe.

Khachapuri with a secret ingredient - love

After resting and gaining strength, in the morning we set out to explore the ancient Vardzia - an ancient cave city built by Queen Tamara. It is located in Aspindza, a district of the city of Akhaltsikhe. It was really scary and majestic there - caves, temples and steep stairs are amazing. Entrance six lari - and impressions for the rest of your life.

View from Vardzia

Dangerous caves of Vardzia

Having admired the ancient caves, we went to Kutaisi, and from there to Batumi, ending our vacation with a stay and swimming in the sea.

View from the room

This concludes my story. The return trip was predictable and easy. In the end, I want to say that Georgia is a paradise, which has incredible nature and mountains, majestic monasteries and temples, delicious cuisine and hospitality.

Stavitskaya Victoria.

Updated 04/18/2018

We have returned! Travel to Georgia is estimated at 5+ and we already know that we will definitely visit there again! Of course, I would like to stay in Georgia longer, to visit all the places that we have planned, but ... .. two weeks of vacation are not rubber 🙂

I decided not to split the report into several articles and describe the border crossing and refueling separately. Everything will be here, in one place. The only exception is the description of sights, I will definitely put them in separate articles.

I really hope that this post will become a guide to action and I will try to describe all the nuances for readers planning to visit Georgia in their own car. What will I talk about? The route to Georgia from Nizhny Novgorod, a description of the trip by day (briefly about the main thing), crossing the Russia-Georgia border, where to stay for the night after crossing the border with Georgia, gas stations, driving style, currency exchange, housing, attitude towards Russians, the cost of the trip. And yes! Georgian food is worth a separate post.

Travel itinerary Nizhny Novgorod — Georgia

From Nizhny Novgorod, you can get to the border checkpoint in Upper Lars through Volgograd or choose a longer route - Voronezh-Rostov. We chose the longer route for two reasons. Firstly, it was planned to call in Belorechensk (my homeland) and secondly, the quality of the road on the M4 and M7 highways is much better than the Volgograd potholes. In any case, the final decision between "short but crappy road" and "longer but excellent quality" should be made immediately before the trip. M7 is often repaired, because of this, decent traffic jams accumulate.

We can say that we are lucky. Repair work on the M7 was in the Lakinsk area, but we practically did not stand in a traffic jam. A108 - an ordinary toshnilovka, a bunch of villagers and trucks. M4 is a great track. There are several paid sections where the speed limit is 130 km/h. Beauty!

Theoretically, in one day you can get from the border to the sea, if you do not call in Tbilisi. By the way, in the case of Georgia, it is not at all necessary to carefully plan the route. There are no problems with housing, with the Internet too. Initially, we booked 3 nights at sea (in Kobuleti), but in the end we extended it twice 🙂

Travel plan by day

Departure from city N at 7.00. As soon as they got into the car, they immediately discovered that the cigarette lighter was not working. We charge phones, a detector and a navigator through it. Sadness. We decided that we would get there this way, and we would look for an auto electrician in Belorechensk.

I really love the moment of departure in a road trip and it is fundamentally different from returning. If, returning home, you stupidly press on your slipper, then at the start you almost bounce with excitement in anticipation of new experiences. Each turn of the wheel brings you a little closer to the intended goal. I take a lot of pictures of the road in the "there" direction and I'm too lazy to take pictures in the "back" direction.

At about 20.30 we arrived at the Slavyanka Hotel on M4 (598 km), where we stayed last year, when. We took the most ordinary number. The cost for three is 1350 rubles. The hotel has a cafe where you can have a good dinner and breakfast.

On family road trips, we never drive all the way or sleep in the car. At night, you need to sleep in normal beds so that the next morning you feel rested, not overwhelmed.

By clicking on the link, you can choose for yourself several options for hotels on the M4 highway, depending on the number of km - http://trassa-tour.ru/avtodoroga/m4-don

And check out again at 7 am. Who gets up early ......, he arrives earlier and has time for the festive table 🙂

The further south you go, the hotter it gets. How nice it is to take off your jackets and pull on shorts with T-shirts! In general, the whole trip to Georgia can be described as "Let's steal a piece of summer from autumn?" and we succeeded quite well.

For lunch we stopped at the new canteen at the Rodina Hotel (1076 km). Very decent and tasty. Prices are average. I recommend.

Not far from the village of Kushchevskaya, they passed the memorial "Field of Cossack Glory". They didn’t go in, they were eager to get there faster. Does anyone know what's in there?

We spent the whole day in Belorechensk. Resting from the road and looking for an auto electrician. It turned out that the breakdown is trifling, the fuse was blown.

Departure at 7.15. Today, the plan is to cross the border and check into the first hotel in Georgia. From Belorechensk to the border checkpoint - 556 km. Exactly at 16.00 we were at the border. We passed several Republics along the way. Roads are good almost everywhere. The Caucasian driving style does not begin in Georgia. We felt the full power of temperament already along the way 🙂

After Vladikavkaz, and even at the entrance to it, you can already see the mountains. As they say, better than mountains, there can only be mountains.

There were no problems crossing the border. 22 minutes is almost a record.

From the border to the village of Stepantsminda is only 15 minutes drive. We booked the hotel on Booking in advance - Red Stone Guest House. I want to note that in the border village housing prices are quite high. Our triple room with shared shower and toilet cost 90 GEL per night. Translated into Russian rubles, this is 2,500 rubles.

All this is not just. Kazbek rises above the villages, which likes to hide in the clouds, and it is here that tourist tracks and hiking trails begin. Kazbek is not shown to everyone. We managed to capture both options on the camera, both with and without Kazbek. On the way back, a mountain with an icy top hid from us. I still thought then - what an ambush, people specially come to see him and climb the mountain to the Gergeti church, and he, such a tsa-tsa, is naughty.

This day turned out to be the most intense in terms of impressions and incredibly long. In the morning we climbed closer to Kazbek and, and in the evening we were already in Tbilisi. We can say that we spent the whole day on Georgian military road. The sights that were examined along the way require a separate post -

Pay attention - it is very sunny, and we are in jackets. At 8 am, the smartphone showed 6 degrees Celsius in Stepantsminda. I will not show more photos from the Georgian military road in this article). Very beautiful! Let there be some intrigue))

We also booked an apartment in Tbilisi in advance, while still in Russia. We chose Sofia Guest House for its large area and proximity to the metro. Somehow we immediately decided that we would not travel by car in Tbilisi. The cost of housing is 160 GEL for two nights (approximately 4,500 rubles). Read more about the apartment.

We have dedicated this day to you. For me, so we looked very little, practically "ran over the tops." The capital of Georgia remained misunderstood. You can’t rush here and it’s better to spend at least 3-4 days in Tbilisi.

Behind me you can see the top platform of the cable car. Unfortunately, it did not work, and we were too lazy to walk up the hill to the fortress. It was very hot in Tbilisi that day, I wanted to be in the shade and plunge into the fountain.

We leave Tbilisi and move towards the sea. The night before, after some deliberation, apartments in Kobuleti were booked for 3 nights (160 GEL). Then we extended them twice, because we could not tear ourselves away from the warmest sea :). There is a separate post about apartments. Read

On the way back we stopped at. I really liked the city. You know, he has a sort of secular gloss. A real resort with a beautiful promenade and equipped beach. I love this photo!

On September 28, we again turned sour into the sea 🙂 There is nothing special to tell. But on the 29th we decided to take a walk along, since it is located not far from Kobuleti. Such wonderful views open from the observation deck. The greens are actually so juicy, photoshop zero.

We left Kobuleti and headed towards the house. But, we went to the gardens)), I wanted to look at and take a walk around. Both liked it very much.

October 1,2,3 we spent on the road. Three days is hard. All the same, the ideal option is two days behind the wheel, then one day of rest. In autumn it gets dark earlier, so we got up for the night at the latest at 20.00.

On the way back, the Georgian military road flew by much faster. We made only one stop - near the arch of Friendship of Peoples. I did not like the reverse border crossing, but read about it below.

In Russia, we spent the night twice in roadside hotels. One of them I will recommend, and the other I will not. The first hotel is "Elite" near Armavir. The roadside motel is inferior, even though we were given a two-room suite for 2,100 rubles. Everything is kind of old and there is a problem with hot water. I had to leave the cold shower and go to the reception right in the towel to sort it out.

The second night was in the Lipetsk region, the Polet hotel (2,000 rubles for a triple room). It is easy to recognize by the real plane in front of the hotel facade. This is the hotel I can recommend.

The trip to Georgia turned out to be very harmonious. All the puzzles fell into place: we were lucky with the weather, the sea was incomparable, the people are very friendly, nature is beyond any epithets, and the visa regime is as easy as possible for Russians. I know for sure that we will return to Georgia more than once.

Crossing the border Russia - Georgia

The border crossing procedure is very simple. Of the documents you will need: a passport, a certificate of registration of the vehicle (technical passport) and a driver's license. We drove with a Russian driver's license. No insurance (medical and auto) was asked at the border. However, be careful! From January 1, 2016, the Georgian side promised to demand a green card for a car. The country is joining the Green Alliance. I still bought for the family, you never know what.

If suddenly the owner of the car refused to go with you to Georgia, then at the border you will need to present a notarized power of attorney in English. Russians do not need a visa to Georgia(if your stay does not exceed 90 days). The stamp is slapped into the passport right at the checkpoint.

From Russia to Georgia by car you can only get through one single checkpoint near Vladikavkaz - "Daryali".

Do not try to enter Georgia through Abkhazia or South Ossetia. Relations between the countries are, to put it mildly, strained. By the way, if you have a stamp on entry into Abkhazia or South Ossetia in your passport, then you need to wait a little with a trip to Georgia.

The procedure at the checkpoint is as follows:

• drive up to the Russian border and lower all the windows on the car. Before the barrier you will simply be asked how many people are going to cross the border;
• drive further, choose a queue for passenger cars and wait for your finest hour;
• drive up to the booth, take the documents and give them to the border guard. The driver of the car comes first, and only then the passengers;
• you may be asked several questions: the purpose of crossing the border, where you are going, etc.;
• at the request of customs officers, open all the doors of the car and the trunk (they may not check);
• load into a car and drive through neutral territory to the Georgian border;
• at the Georgian checkpoint, passengers must get out of the car and pass the border separately (there is a special room on the right);
• the driver needs to go to the booth, give the documents and politely answer the questions of the border guards;
• then you need to open the trunk again to show the car to the customs officer and not to forget to pick up your passengers.

From personal experience: we passed the Russia-Georgia border like clockwork - 20 minutes for everything about everything, but on the way back we got stuck in a huge traffic jam, in which we spent 3 hours. The Georgian border guards let us through very quickly, but the Russian side was clearly in no hurry. Cars were launched in batches + there was a huge line of trucks. Our car was not searched. Oh, I should have taken more wine! We did not take risks and bought exactly as much as allowed by the rules: 3 liters per person.

At the entrance to the border (and back and forth) you will most likely see a whole string of trucks. You don't have to queue up for them. Feel free to go around them, even if you have to go in the opposite direction.

The checkpoint does not work at night due to the threat of mudflows. The information is current as of September 2015. Be sure to clarify the situation immediately before the trip. Most likely because of this, huge queues of trucks accumulate. The threat of mudflows is quite real. On the Georgian side, just past the checkpoint, there is a terrible stretch of road. It just washed him away. You have to drive very carefully.

Gas stations in Georgia

The cost of fuel in Georgia is higher than in Russia, so do not forget to fill up a full tank before the checkpoint. As a rule, Georgian gas stations do not indicate the brand number of gasoline, only the designation: regular, premium or super. It's simple: regular - 92, premium - 95, super - 98.

Almost all petrol stations accept credit cards. Cash can be given directly to refuellers. They themselves go to the cashier and bring you a check and change.

The cost of fuel in Georgia: No. 92 - 1.88 lari (52 rubles), No. 95 - 1.99 lari (55 rubles). More expensive than in Russia, but cheaper than European prices.

You can track the current cost of fuel on the website autotraveler.ru. This is a very useful resource for car enthusiasts, so I highly recommend it. There you can also get acquainted with the main traffic rules of Georgia.

Driving style of hot Georgian men

This is complete trash, especially out of habit 🙂

It is quite normal to change lanes without a turn signal. If the car changes lanes to the left, then you can hope that the driver will turn on the turn signal. But if the car pulls off the side of the road or turns right - do not wait!

The movement is chaotic, everyone is late for something and honks to each other a lot. At first, it was terribly infuriating, and then we realized that the signals in Georgia are a means of communication. If you are shortly signaled twice, then they simply warn about their maneuvers, n / r you will be overtaken. Well, yes, of course, turn signals were not invented for this at all. If the beep is sharp and drawn out, then literally it means: "Where are you going, freak." Can you imagine what a cacophony is on the roadway in a large city?

In Tbilisi, we generally left the car at the house and traveled by metro. Nafig us such adventures. If you can still somehow get used to maneuvers on the road and even adjust to the general flow, then there is trouble with pedestrians in Georgia. Both sides are to blame. There are pedestrian crossings in Georgia, but people cross the road wherever they want. I can still understand unintelligent pets that can calmly walk along the highway, peacefully chewing dusty grass, but people ... .. Drivers are no better. No one is allowed to cross the pedestrian crossing. It's really scary to cross the road.

I started talking about animals, perhaps I will finish the thought. Just like in Abkhazia, in Georgia, cows are sacred animals. They can peacefully lie down on the highway in the shade, abruptly cross the road and, of course, not notice the cars. In addition to cows, goats, sheep, pigs and chickens are sacred animals. This whole zoo goes onto the road in small settlements and blocks traffic.

Yes, and one more thing - you will be overtaken through a solid line and under a prohibition sign. This is normal and you will quickly get used to it. The main thing is to quickly restructure your thinking on the territory of Russia).

Currency exchange

You can travel to Georgia with rubles. There are no problems with the exchange of Russian currency. For 1000 rubles they give from 30 to 35 lari. The most profitable exchange was in Tbilisi - 34 lari for 1000 rubles (no commission), and the most greedy money changers work in Stepantsminda - 30 lari for 1000 rubles.

According to my observations, it is slightly less profitable to exchange rubles in a bank than in ordinary exchangers. In stores and at gas stations, we paid with a card.

Current exchange rate: 1 lari = 27.61 rubles. To understand the high cost of this or that acquisition, we multiplied the cost of the purchase by 30. Be sure to check the fresh exchange rate of the lari before the trip.

Housing in Georgia

I have already touched on the topic of housing above, so I will just summarize. I don’t know about the season, but in September we quietly booked an apartment for. Airbnb also offers apartments and rooms. I will say more, upon arrival, you will also easily find housing for yourself. After all, not all landlords have the opportunity to register on Booking.com.

Apartments for three cost us from 45 to 90 GEL per day, depending on the city. We were looking for a certain level of comfort. Of course, you can find cheaper accommodation.

Near the sea, I saw a couple of equipped campsites. The cost of 15 GEL was imprinted in memory. I don't know if it's from a person or a car. If you like tents and romance, then welcome to Georgia. One of the campsites definitely functions on the territory of the Botanical Garden, and the other is beyond Kobuleti.

Attitude towards Russians

I didn't notice anything special about me. Everyone is very friendly, there is no language barrier at all. In case of any difficulties, they always came to our aid.

One of the roadside cafes had no English menu, only Georgian. The woman (for some reason it seems to me that it was the hostess) told us everything and advised dishes.

Let me tell you about one episode. In Tbilisi, we took a taxi and the taxi driver started talking himself. We didn't force him. Honestly. He said that all the people on the streets are sad, but before they always smiled and were cheerful. There is no work, the locals leave for Russia or Europe. I sincerely regretted that Georgia spoiled relations with Russia. It was the most ordinary truth from the most ordinary resident of Tbilisi.

The cost of travel

Usually I keep a trip calculation so that later I can analyze the cost of pleasure.

Given: 3 people, Kia Soul car, 5,500 km, 15 days of travel.

Based on 1 person, it turns out 24,198 rubles. It is probably not very correct to compare two trips, but for example, I can give a New Year's trip. For 8 days of travel, we spent 80,297 rubles.

In general, the cost of food in Georgia is approximately at the level of Russia. You can easily find familiar Russian goods in stores. In cafe-restaurants they left about 50-80 lari for three, wine in the store costs from 10 lari, travel in transport 0.5 lari.

This is what our trip was like. The Georgian issue is not closed! I have more to tell you :-). Here, for example, is a post about what you can bring as a souvenir.

About that, read in a separate article!

So, the distance from Elbrus to the Georgian border is 250 km. we walked for 4 hours. Apparently, due to the approach of the May holidays, queues began to form at the border. In total, we spent 5 hours waiting and passing. Fortunately, I downloaded the films into the tablet in advance)) No special documents are required for entering Georgia: a passport, a registration certificate, a license. If the car is not registered in your name, then another power of attorney from a notary. I am writing this because once we drove two cars to Transcarpathia and eventually had to leave one car at the border due to the lack of a power of attorney)))

In Georgia, Rida and I were already in 2013 and during the last trip we saw 85% of all the main attractions. So we set ourselves up in advance rather for a gastronomic journey, since we both love Georgian cuisine: khachapuri, khinkali, sulguni, lobio and so on (I won’t tease too much)))).

One of the most beautiful places is located just beyond the border crossing - the village of Stepandsminda. A very beautiful place in the mountains with its famous church against the backdrop of Mount Kazbek. Having settled in the guest house of the famous Vasily, we immediately went to celebrate our trip with the first khachapuri.

Prices in Georgia: During our last visit in 2013, prices in local currency did not increase much. But the rate has grown: before 1 lari cost 20 rubles, and now 32. Housing in simple guest houses costs from 15 to 25 lari per person (you can bargain a little, especially if you spend more than one night). You can almost in any guest house ask the hostess to include breakfast in the price. For food, on average, for two, we spent 15-20 GEL at a time. Gasoline in Georgia is 35 percent more expensive, so in Vladikavkaz it is better to refuel to the eyeballs. Entrance to places of interest: monuments, zoos, cave cities costs a penny. Everything seems to be priced :)

Well, the main attraction in Stepansminda is of course the Gergeti Church on the mountain. You can take a taxi up there, but it's not sporty) We left the car in the lower village and traditionally went on foot, passing by the epic places of our parking lot on motorcycles 3 years ago.

The sights themselves are not so interesting to watch for the second time and we enjoyed the views around more. During the May holidays, Georgia is visited by a lot of guests from Russia, we even met a large company from Ufa)) The Georgians themselves are very surprised at such an invasion of our compatriots, apparently the closure of Egypt with Turkey affects, and Georgia itself is becoming more and more popular every year, word of mouth works. Only a lazy traveler has not been here yet)))

Another super cool place is the Jvari waterfall. To get to it, you need to drive back towards Russia for 7 kilometers and soon a sign to the left will appear. Then walk about a mile and a half. The waterfall in the spring is simply gorgeous and powerful. I don’t know how it is in the summer, but I think it should also be beautiful)).

Having walked around the capital and tasting Adjarian khachapurka and khinkali in every second cafe, we began to think where to go in a couple of free days. We decided to go to those places where we had not yet been in order to gain new emotions. The choice fell on Borjomi - a well-known all-Union Georgian resort - a hospital. From Tbilisi to Borjomi no more than 170 kilometers. Most of the road goes along an ideal highway. Now it is being actively completed, I think it should stretch to the Black Sea coast - Batumi (400 km). On the way we stopped in Gori, where Iosif Vissarionovich Stalin was born and spent his youth. The museum, contrary to my expectations, turned out to be very popular, a lot of people show interest in this person, especially many groups from other countries.
Museum workers themselves admitted that the administration actively puts spokes in their wheels and the museum lives on the brink of existence. I am convinced that by renouncing its past, society is giving up hope for a just future, there is no need to go far for an example, but let's not, as they say, point the finger. The museum itself turned out to be very interesting, with many details and facts from the life of this great man. Highly recommend to anyone who is in the area!!

Borjomi is located in a very beautiful valley in the mountains. The town itself is not big, but very clean, well-groomed and cozy. Now there is a massive reconstruction of the old road and buildings, but in general the place is very pleasant.

In the city park there is a cable car to the top, from where you can watch the setting sun.
The springs of the well-known Borjomi mineral water are also located there. I'm ashamed to admit it, but in a couple of days there I tried only a couple of sips. Well, here we are, not connoisseurs of soda))) We have half a liter costs 85 rubles, and there it's free))

The discovery for us was that if you walk along the road after the end of the path in the park for another 5 kilometers, you will come out to open hot sulfur springs. This place was discovered and defined as a healing place back in tsarist times. There are three swimming pools with warm sulfuric water right under the open sky. I, as a great connoisseur of thermal springs, of course, floundered there like a frog))

In addition to the resort itself, trekking lovers will be interested in the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park. The park is very large, but it seems difficult to get lost. There are routes from one-day 15 kilometers to three-day long routes. We chose the shortest one for the walk, 15 kilometers (black on the map). But due to the ascents and descents, it did not seem very easy to us)) In addition, right in the middle of the route, a downpour covered us, and then hail. But still, I really enjoyed the walk. Take a supply of water and snacks. In the spring, a raincoat is also helpful)))

We started planning our vacation in the spring, but initially a car trip to Georgia was not planned. We had a Schengen visa, which ended in mid-June, and we expected to go to Europe, the choice fell on Spain, because. we have already been in countries closer. Having estimated that in order to search for a more or less warm sea at the end of May-beginning of June, you need to get all the way to Portugal, I became thoughtful, because the road is very long, there are many toll roads, and the cost of a solarium is disproportionately higher than ours. In general, having calculated the cost of the road alone and after consulting with his wife, it was decided to postpone such a long trip until better times and a warmer season.

After this decision, we were able to spit on the Schengen, which tightly tied us to the very beginning of the season in all warm countries and postponed the vacation to July. But the question arose, where now to go to rest by car without a visa? It turned out that there are not many options, namely:

1. Crimea - to be honest, they did not even consider this direction, because. I was there six times in the old days, and making an impressive detour through Kerch didn’t smile at all, besides, what didn’t we see there?
2. The resorts of the Krasnodar Territory would certainly be interesting to look at the updated Sochi. I have not been to this region at all, and my wife visited the Hot Key in her deep childhood. But somehow it didn’t pull there, because. There is an opinion that price and quality do not correspond to each other.
3. Abkhazia is a more interesting option, because. this is some kind of no, but abroad and the mentality of people is different. But having studied the Internet for reviews about this country, I realized that the nature there is awesome, but the service was stuck in the 90s, and the criminogenic situation was frankly frightening.
4. Georgia is the last and farthest corner that could shelter us during our summer vacation. I immediately noted that Georgia is one of the safest countries in the world and occupies an honorable sixth line in this list. I found numerous confirmations of this by tourists who had already been there and simply spoke with admiration about the local police. Nature and sights conquered me - there was a sea for my wife, and mountains for me, while the list of interesting places just rolled over. The mentality of the local population was radically different from ours, and the hospitality of the Georgians was not mentioned except that they were lazy. After looking at the pictures and reading a bunch of reviews, I found a place that 100% met our holiday needs.

True, my parents were not happy with our decision, especially mine, whatever you say, but propaganda is doing its job. But the decision has been made and the start is scheduled for mid-July.

Travel preparation

I prepared even worse for Georgia than for Italy: I followed the profile threads on the forums, read the latest reports of tourists and slowly drew up a travel plan, in which I constantly made various edits and notes on sights, places of possible overnight stay, restaurants and other nuances. As a result, when before the trip I printed out my memoirs and gave them to my wife to read, she was a little stunned, 15 sheets are not gibberish for you.

I didn’t do any special manipulations with the car: I refilled the fire extinguisher, reassembled the first aid kit, changed the front pads a little ahead of time (we’re going to the mountains, after all), checked the fluids and refueled the freon in the air conditioner. Plus, I took a few spare light bulbs so that I could change them right away and not attract the attention of the afflicted to bribe me with a striped stick.

For their own peace of mind, they issued and paid for medical insurance in Georgia via the Internet - it costs a penny and does not ask for food.

From paper maps, it was decided to abandon in favor of the navigator. I installed the latest versions of Navitel on my phone and my wife, downloaded the most relevant ones, Russia and Azerbaijan (if a mudflow comes down at the border, you will have to return through it), and uploaded fresh SpeedCams. In addition, just in case, a notification program about stationary cameras and ambushes of traffic cops was installed on both phones. MapcamDroid. But the main indicator of stationary radars and traffic cops shooting from around the corner was the ESCORT Passport 9500ix INTL radar detector with an up-to-date camera base. By the way, radar detectors are allowed for use on the territory of Russia and Georgia. Looking ahead, I’ll say that I have never been taken for speeding, although it took place.

Search for affordable housing in Georgia

The interior of the car also had a video recorder. In principle, I consider this gadget a must for all motorists, and even for a trip around the territory of Kabardino-Balkaria and North Ossetia, where thoroughly corrupt traffic police officers salivate, seeing off the car on the plates of another region - this thing is simply irreplaceable, because. can reduce the number of your stops and false charges.

Well, otherwise, as usual: we collected more clothes, warm socks and sweaters (what if it’s cold in the mountains and bears roam?), We grabbed a few souvenirs in the form of Alenka chocolates and national vodka. We took a tent, spinning with lures, two sleeping bags and blankets in case of a wild stop in the mountains or camping.

Several cans of Red Bull and Burn were purchased to increase the time spent behind the wheel, but I did not notice any positive effect from the energy drinks in the fight against sleep. But caffeine tablets, as if by hand, removed sleep and gave somewhere else 2.5 hours of very vigorous taxiing, and then within half an hour there was a gradual attenuation of consciousness with permanent yawning, so feeling that drowsiness was starting to return, we immediately began to look for a place to overnight stay. I also had a special device that I previously ordered in the Middle Kingdom for 3 kopecks and called it "AntiSleep" - it looks like a hearing aid and is hung on the ear, and when the head tilts to either side - it starts brutally squeaking.

We made boutiques on the road, took a chicken in foil, a thermos with coffee, mineral water and juice, we decided not to take eggs. As a result, I had to make 3 calls together to take out all the clothes and load them into the car.

Start of the trip

We left for Georgia, from the capital of Belarus, Minsk, at 8 am on Saturday, July 18 - this first day our journey. If it were possible to start on a weekday, then we would have done just that, but when the last working day is Friday, we don’t want to lose 2 days off and we have to go as it turns out. And it turns out to go along with all summer residents, vacationers and tourists who occupy all country roads, create traffic jams and lines at the border - all this can be enjoyed on weekdays, but to a much lesser extent. The departure time is also not correct, it should have been a few hours earlier, just according to the old Russian tradition, we began to gather and look for passports on the last evening and went to bed only at 3 in the morning, setting the alarm for 6. After waking up for another 2 hours, we gathered, said goodbye to the cats and finally set sail.

There are several ways to get from Minsk to the border with Georgia - the most popular of them is through Moscow, but I dismissed it, because. I didn’t want to go there while all of Moscow was trying to leave the Moscow Ring Road, plus you catch all the paid sections to Voronezh. I chose the road to Voronezh, but if almost everyone goes through Yelets, I went through Kursk. I can justify this by the fact that the traffic in my case was many times less, there was no traffic jam in front of Voronezh, and the road surface was beyond praise. Thus, my route looked like this: Minsk-Gomel-Bryansk-Orel-Kursk-Voronezh-Rostov-on-Don-Vladikavkaz-Upper Lars (border of Russia and Georgia).

And so we drive, we skip the Minsk-Gomel section quickly, they just widened the road there and laid a completely new asphalt, we buy a green card on the border with Russia and we reach Bryansk. We pass it along the bypass and head to Oryol, on the road there is a lot of heavy truck traffic, which, apparently, is moving from and to the M4 "Don" highway. But in the end we go to Kursk and there are very few cars, trucks meet once an hour, the road is brand new, there are many pockets for overtaking, which are actively used by rare slow-movers and do not interfere with calmly going on a 140 cruise. The sun is already setting, and I succumb to numerous persuading his wife to finally stop for dinner. After a hearty snack, we continue our journey, all along the same excellent road, to Voronezh. We pass through its broken roads in transit in the dark and get a shock when we leave the Don highway. We are used to driving almost alone, but here mom don’t worry about cars.

It starts chopping me, after all, I slept for 3 hours, so I stand at the curb and drink a can of energy drink, stretch my legs, it’s already midnight on the clock, but we stubbornly move forward.

Near Voronezh, speed cameras hang on every bridge with an alternating limit of 40 and 60 km, my radar detector did not stop, and my wife wanted to throw us both out of the passenger compartment. But very soon we were stuck in a traffic jam for an hour, in which I would have fallen asleep safely if I had not taken a caffeine pill. It turned out that this is just a narrowing of the road, which is not designed for thousands of cars ... it's good that we drove through this place at night ... Then there was a long section with repairs, so the traffic went 40-60 km / h and after that I started to cover . But it’s not easy to find a place to sleep for the night - all gas stations are jam-packed with sleeping cars, they stand in ditches, stupidly on the highway under lighting masts, but you can draw figs for sleeping pockets. With grief in half, after tens of kilometers, we found one single place in the parking lot near a roadside hotel near the village of Radchenskoe. The BC showed a run of 1350 km, and at 3 am, before I had time to fully climb into the sleeping bag, I peacefully sniffled.

The charms of the M4 "Don" highway

Waking up at 7 am second day, I was surprised to find that all that terrible bunch of cars that surrounded us at night "raptam znikla" and, apparently, is already rushing at full speed to take my place in line at the Russian-Georgian border. After brushing my teeth, I, as a stronger sex, was sent to reconnaissance in a local roadside closet. Everyone left, there is no queue, I stand alone at the entrance and think: "Why didn't I grab a respirator and diving goggles?" Judging by the marks of suspicious origin on all the surfaces that my eyes reached, I concluded that the throughput of this WC significantly exceeds the throughput of the Minsk MKAD and that this institution is visited not only by upright Homo sapiens, but also by some other life forms . I decided not to risk it and looked into the next booth, which only ladies are allowed to enter... Ladies haven't gone there for a long time... In addition to inappropriate interior decoration, there was no door in the toilet and opened a magnificent view of the highway 5 meters from the threshold. Turning my head around, I quickly descended into a small ditch nearby, where the situation turned out to be an order of magnitude more cultured. He sent his wife to the men's closet, which has a door, while he himself, at that time, patrolled the neighborhood, driving away those who wanted to visit her.

We stopped at the nearest gas station to drink coffee and refuel, and, at the beginning of the ninth, we started further. By the way, I used only the services of gas stations of well-known brands, trying to choose those that sold Euro-5 class fuel. There are a lot of fakes on the road, such as "Lukail", which is decorated in the same colors as the original, and many other tricks - read the names carefully and do not reach the last drop of diesel, otherwise you will fall into such a bodya ...

Gradually, the M4 "Don" highway is disappointing, I hoped to calmly go on a cruise, but here there are constant repairs, a lot of radars, a permitted speed of 90 km / h and slabs from trucks that, in order not to drive along the "washboard" in the right lane, go to left, that pipets both strains and slows down the movement. Although I understand that it is not their fault that the builders made such a road that quickly went in waves.

Immediately after Rostov, near Bataysk, we got into a hard traffic jam for 3.5 hours - we drove 26 km. It was hot outside, some cars were boiling, I constantly had to pedal because of moving forward a maximum of 1 body, the gearbox began to obey badly when I stuck the first one for the 500th time. Due to constant tension, my right leg starts to cramp and I, out of my great mind, decide to let it rest, and press the brake with my left foot ... Never tried it? Inexpressible feelings, it’s good at least to press the brake, and not the gas.

After this hell, we decide to stop for lunch and rest, but, as I mentioned above, it is extremely difficult to find a place on this road where an ordinary traveler can safely stop, have a bite to eat and stretch their legs. At first it was wild for us to see how people stupidly move into a ditch and stop there to rest and have a snack. Well, how is this possible on a new federal highway, what kind of stupid people designed it? In the end, I can’t stand it either, and I steer off the road into a small ravine.

The car is right there in the shade, I’m lying, because my feet are not used to stomping on the pedals in such protracted traffic jams, and a little further away from my body one more tourists are visible who have chosen this picturesque ditch for a break. But on the left there was a field of sunflowers, along which my missus was rushing with pleasure, while I took a breath.

Soon the Don track ends and the Kavkaz begins - at the very beginning, the asphalt was cut off, and we trudged slowly for 50 km, maneuvering between pits and potholes, but I was still glad, because the M4 completely disappointed me. I'm sure that they made it better than what was there before, but they really made it "on @ sis" - dick that there is a bow on the side.

Highway "Kavkaz" and a meeting with the traffic police

When we were driving along the Kavkaz highway in the Krasnodar and Stavropol Territories, we very often came across traffic police crews, who, standing at the side of the road, were filming on a camera mounted on a tripod. At first we slowed down, thinking that these were radars, but no - they were ordinary video cameras, which, as it turned out later, were placed in the most tasty places where cars could go beyond the continuous one. There are very few radars on this section of the road.

It was already dark when we entered Mineralnye Vody, we really liked the local asphalt and the roads that twisted like a snake and prepared us for mountain serpentines)

In Kabardino-Balkaria, they immediately began to pay more attention to compliance with traffic rules, because. heard about the local traffic police. When the navigator said the phrase "There is a stationary traffic police post ahead" - the heart began to pound, the pulse quickened, the palms sweated and the eye began to twitch.

When you pass these stationary posts, you feel with every cell of your body how many hungry eyes of the rulers of the striped wand are looking at you from the darkness. In fact, you should behave calmly near these places, you don’t need to look expectantly in their direction - we don’t need an extra provocation, and if they want to stop you, then peripheral vision will easily catch a well-fed servant of the law striving to cut you off. Approaching such a post, carefully follow the speed limit signs, which will gradually force you to reduce it to 5 km / h, and at the very post, on the ground, there will be a sign "STOP" - a stop is strictly required. Stop each time - stood for 4-5 seconds and moved on. Sometimes such a sign can be found just on a straight section of the road, and a traffic cop will sit in ambush and wait for you to ignore him - pay special attention to ground STOP signs. In general, it will not be superfluous to install the current traffic rules of the Russian Federation on your phone, so you can understand what they are trying to charge you with or what to breed, because. they, for some reason, have a habit of telling you the maximum fine or punishment that is given only for repeated violations.

Key things to know:

1. Speeding up to 20 km/h is not punished in any way.
2. Check-in for a continuous one is punishable by a large fine of several thousand rubles, and a repeated violation can deprive you of your rights.

Therefore, traffic cops no longer sit in the bushes with radars, the maximum that can be found is a tripod in a ravine near the road, covered with a camouflage net with the addition of twigs for greater secrecy. Now a new profitable chip - to catch for a solid one.

With caution, we enter North Ossetia and hope that it will carry us, because there is nothing left to the border with Georgia. I refuel on the road in front of Vladikavkaz, because there is no desire to travel around this region at night in search of another good gas station.

There are a couple of tens of kilometers left to Upper Lars, but I drive carefully and carefully, because. in the dark, flashes of the chandeliers of traffic police cars that overtook their prey are very often visible.

For a better understanding of what happened next, I will describe the local road. In these regions, it has mainly 3 lanes, and the middle lane alternately goes to one direction, then another. So that the driver understands that the lane will end for him soon - arrows are drawn on it, which mean that it is time to return to the right lane, there are 3 of these arrows in total and after the last one there is a narrowing.

So, I am so joyful going along a very winding road - we tore everyone and slipped through these dangerous places without loss! A car is driving in front of me, and in front of it is a slow motorcyclist, the time is the beginning of the first night. The car goes to our middle lane and starts ahead of the motorist, but it lacks fillies - it does it very slowly and strainedly. It’s my turn and I start to drown, but I see that the arrows have gone and I’m unlikely to make it in time, and ahead, in my lane, a heavy truck is driving ahead. I want to return to my lane on the right, but there is a motorcycle, behind, right bumper to bumper, another car unexpectedly propped me up and I have no choice but to rush forward to overtake the motorcycle, accepting this, I don’t have time to return to my lane on time, and somewhere - then I drive towards the hull. Immediately, at this blissful moment, the car, which propped me up from behind and did not allow me to slow down to return, turns on the ceiling. Yes, it was the Ossetian traffic police.

Conversation with Ossetian traffic cops

I pull over to the side of the road and stay in the car without even unfastening I read about cases when people were charged with this as a violation, supposedly the inspector approached - the driver is not fastened, then catch a fine. In the mirror I see that a traffic cop is coming out from the passenger side, and a machine gunner is climbing out from behind and both are coming towards me from different directions. I trembled slightly, but more from surprise, but my wife was completely horrified.

The inspector asked for documents, I handed it to him without question and immediately agreed that I had violated it. He flipped through for a long time and eventually asked where the "Green Card". I pointed, he twisted it, spun it, and then again asked, so where is the green card? I say you hold it in your hands, for stupid people it even has a characteristic green color. He did not let up and began to ask if they had been introduced for a long time, etc., from which I concluded that this guardian of the law does not even have a clue what the standard insurance for citizens of other states looks like, which has been in effect for many years. Without giving me the documents, I was invited to take a walk in the patrol car to talk with the elder, who was sitting in the driver's seat. My missus was completely frightened, but I thought it was good that there was a leather seat under her, otherwise you never know. He sat down in the patrol room to the main one, and the machine gunner and the sergeant remained outside.

Immediately he began to frighten me with deprivation, but in response to my remark that it was given only for a repeated violation, he smiled and praised me for having read their traffic rules. Questions began from the series "Well, what are we going to do with you?". I was silent and pondered the current situation, because the fine shone at 5,000. Without waiting for an intelligible answer or a hint from me, he asked the sergeant to bring a tablet with blank forms of protocols, which for some reason ended up in the trunk. Apparently they are so rarely used that they decided to put them out of sight. There was an awkward pause... I am a law-abiding person, and our guardians of the law are much less likely to sin with such things, so my experience of such negotiations is extremely scarce and small. It didn’t occur to me to do anything else, except to show him in the silence of the semi-darkness of the salon a splayed five, and say hundreds to myself. But he is an experienced person - who has seen a lot, so he was not at a loss, nodded and smiled, saying: "Thousands is good." Well, what about me? I say "no-no-no, I thought of something else" - his smile fled somewhere. The game "Who will show more fingers" has begun, did not play, did not? But here it is worth mentioning one important factor - we refueled a full tank, so we had 800 rubles left and I had to keep my nose bleeding within this limit. As a result, I could not stand it and revealed my cards, voicing the size of the existing bank. But he did not give up and continued to plaintively repeat like a wounded "Well, at least a thousand" - even if you take it and have pity. In the end, they give me my license, and I go to my car to scrape all the little things in the bottom of the barrel, 700-800 rubles have accumulated - they didn’t even count them, they just drove off into the night.

So meanly they stopped me 25 km from the Russian-Georgian border. By the way, I think that those crews that film everything on video cameras from the side of the road are more civilized and, according to the law, solder you 5 thousand with an accompanying protocol.

We moved on, discussing how we stopped and leaning towards the version that this "box" was played on purpose. But having arrived at the Upper Lars checkpoint and standing at the tail of the queue, the same ill-fated motorcyclist stopped behind us, who sincerely sympathized with us, but did not give us money. It turns out that they deliberately pressed against me from behind so that I had no choice but to break the rules. You should not think that at night in the rear-view mirror you can understand that the car behind has a police coloring - this is not so.

But let's leave the bad behind, our journey took us to the border with Georgia. You get out of the car and a deafening roar of a mountain river falls on you, which spreads throughout a narrow gorge, and stars so bright shine in the sky that you won’t see them even in winter in the village in the most severe frost.

I tried to see where the beginning of the queue was hiding, but in the dark it was very difficult to do this, although I still saw the checkpoint lights. We laid out our sleeping bags, set the alarm clock for 4.30 - the opening of the border, and quickly rushed off to the realm of Morpheus - it was one o'clock in the morning. The distance traveled from home is 2,400 km, $ 85 was spent on diesel fuel and coffee, and we also don’t forget about the fine.

This concludes the first part of my report about a trip to Georgia by car, but here are links to continue: