The top of the Neyvinsky pond fishing is the best place. Excursion to the upper-Neyvinsky pond

Officially, Verkh-Neyvinsky is only a small urban-type settlement (5.2 thousand inhabitants), which grew up near the Demidov factory founded in 1769, from which a collection of very curious buildings remains. But approaching this "settlement" along a forest road, you quickly realize that the flow of cars on it is suspiciously large, and as soon as the forest partes, you see blocks of high-rise buildings on the ridges ahead. If you try to get to those microdistricts, you will run into a fence with a checkpoint. In fact, Verkh-Neyvinsky is an open area of ​​​​the closed city of Novouralsk (82 thousand inhabitants), which, due to its location, is the most accessible from ZATO - yes, you just can’t get inside, but from the surrounding hills, the city itself is at a glance , and his enterprise, the flagship of that rare industry in which Russia is still the undisputed leader.

He brought me to Verkh-Neyvinsky Oleg Nikitin during our voyage around Nevyansk. In I showed Kunar, Byngi and Tavolga, and here, in addition to Verkh-Neyvinsk, I will show Lake Tavatui, where the dachas of the Yekaterinburg majors replaced the sketes of the Old Believers.

If the cities that grew up near fortresses and castles climb the mountain from the outskirts, then the cities that grew up near factories, on the contrary, flow into the riverine lowland, to the dam that once turned their mechanisms. And among the many rivers of the Urals, for some reason, the little Neiva turned out to be undeservedly forgotten - not just a river, but the source of the mining region. Once it was a natural necklace of factory ponds, which also had the first factories - and. Here is its valley at the beginning of the blue mountains - in the foreground is Verkh-Neyvinsk, at a distance - Novouralsk; copper is melted under the near pipe, and uranium isotopes are enriched under the far ones.

The upland part of Verkh-Neyvinsk is mostly Soviet, but near those five-story buildings a cow was grazing calmly on the lawn:

And wooden houses with carvings come across here and there:

You can get around Old Neyvinsk in half an hour - almost everything interesting here is grouped around the small Red Square. The color is given to it primarily by the Schoolchildren's House, which was originally a factory hospital (1904):

To the left is a military memorial depicting a soldier and a partisan looking into the distance with a grenade and a piece of rail ... however, the most beautiful thing here is still the trees:

The houses opposite are all sorts of shops and houses of factory employees. Here, according to local legend, an illegal card club was located, and this was how it was conceived - everyone knew everything, of course, and the construction could pay off faster than the auditor would come to the city for the first time.

On the other side of the House of Schoolchildren - a square with a monument to the fighters of the revolution (1926), representing the Zemshar Cathedral on a pedestal from Alexander II (1901):

The monument to the emperor stood in front of the Volost Administration (1898), which, judging by the high turret, also housed firefighters. In the background is the mountain Kindareika, and the strange name of the rumor goes back to the factory Germans, whose Kinder periodically ran up the mountain, and the locals had to look for them there. On the slope of the mountain is the Church of the Resurrection, to which we will climb closer to the end of Lent.

A little closer to the plant is the Old School named after Alexei Arapov (a local war hero who distinguished himself in the Battle of Kursk). Built in 1898-1901 with the money of workers, it has remained the largest pre-revolutionary building in Verkh-Neyvinsk. And the proletarian children looked out the windows at their future fate:

There are two more monuments in the square with Zemshar. Below is a plate with a rather strange text: " 1918-2013. Eternal glory to the fallen Red Army soldiers of the 1st Brigade of the 2nd Ural Division and the fallen soldiers of the 2nd Jiri from Podebrad and 3rd Jan Zizka of the Czechoslovak regiments. Every soldier is worthy of respect - Russian, Magyar, Slovak or Czech, God's mercy descends on everyone!". Red Army soldiers and Czechoslovaks (as well as Cossacks and Whites) fought here, as you might guess, with each other, that is, they immortalized the victims of both sides of that war on this monument. As I understand it, this is a private initiative of the Ural military history clubs (in the first stage of the Novoural "Seeker").

The second monument is a very beautiful forged cross placed on the grave of the clergy...

In the fence of St. Nicholas Church (1858):

The former temple is rather difficult to recognize in the current building of the House of Culture of Metallurgists (1936):

On the contrary, at the very entrance of the Verkh-Neyvinsky Non-Ferrous Metals Plant, there is also the main architectural monument of the village, the gas-holder-like House-Decanter (1775), the "younger brother" of the mysterious Leaning Tower of Nevyansk, which, according to local legend, owes its appearance to the tipsy Prokopy Demidov, who, at dinner and boring discussing the project of the future plant, he showed the clerk a decanter of wine standing on the table and ordered him to build an office in this way.

Away, in a closed area (at least it seemed to me) - another house in the style of classicism, about which I did not find any information. But knowing the standard set of buildings of the Ural city-factory, I can assume that it was either the mansion of the factory head, or the office of the mining district - a "bush" of factories with a common infrastructure (in this case, it also included Neyvo-Rudyansky, Nizhne-Neyvo- Rudyansky and, attention, Nizhne-Verkh-Neyvinsky plants!). As explained numik1969 , this is indeed the Lord's house, where the head of the plant lived.

From the stadium near the Palace of Culture of Metallurgists, you can look over the fence and directly to the factory site - but you won’t see anything interesting there. The Verkh-Neyvinsky iron-smelting and iron-working plant was founded by Prokopiy Demidov, a representative of the third generation of the iron dynasty, in 1762-67, but he was not the owner for long: already in 1772, the Neiva plants (including the "original Demidov" Nevyansk) passed to the then oligarch Savva Yakovlev. A born tradesman Sobakin from Ostashkov, he started by trading in veal near the Winter Palace, and then climbed like steps - a supplier of meat to the imperial table and to the fronts of the Seven Years' War, the owner of textile factories and finally a metallurgical magnate, who paid attention to this industry from submission of the aged Lomonosov. In the Urals, Yakovlev bought 16 and built 6 factories, surpassing the Demidovs themselves by the beginning of the 19th century ... but even he lacked something: either the mind to understand that the future belongs to steam engines and steel, or the strength to implement all this at their enterprises . In general, from the middle of the 19th century, the Verkh-Neyvinsky plant floundered in the crisis that struck the entire Urals, and in 1904 it closed the last plant in Russia that produced blooming iron - by today's standards, this is approximately as if an enterprise that made steam locomotives reached the beginning of the 21st century in Russia . The current plant at the same place was built from scratch in 1912, and they say that somewhere in its shops there are still Krupp machines ... Although it is doubtful - VNZTSM belongs to the Ural Mining and Metallurgical Company, and they would prefer to take such machines to their museum.

Let's go back to Red Square and go around the House of Schoolchildren from the other side. Above the backyard of the square is Mount Belova:

And the backyards run into a pond, behind which, in full view, is a secret city that was once not marked on the maps:

You can’t approach it on a boat either - the public railroad Yekaterinburg - Nizhny Tagil stretches along the coast, and I don’t really understand what the logic was to build a ZATO in such a prominent place:

On the bank of the pond you can see the station with a water pump (1878). This is the oldest in the Urals and remained for two decades the "island" Gornozavodskaya railway from Perm to Yekaterinburg through Nizhny Tagil. Alas, it was built too late - it was already impossible to save the industrial area, which in the middle of the 19th century rafted its products along the rapids rivers on wooden barges.

Most of Novouralsk, as I understand it, stands behind the mountain, in the valley of the Bunarka River. Over the area visible from Verkh-Neyvinsk hangs a "skyscraper", outwardly most similar to a hotel. This has its own symbolism - there they enriched uranium ore from nearby deposits, here they enriched uranium itself, obtaining highly productive isotopes. But in general, Novouralsk is a child of the war, which involuntarily acquired its specialization.

Since in the 1920-30s these picturesque foothills were being prepared for the role of an all-Ural resort. In 1926, a sanatorium for railway workers was founded near the Verkh-Neyvinsk station, and in 1939, the pretentious "Uralsky Mashinostroitel" for the workers of the famous "Uralmash". But in 1941, for some reason, it was on Bunark that it was decided to urgently build factories No. 484 and No. 261 for the production of alloys and spare parts for military aircraft. They built quickly, at the factories, settlements with names such as Temporary or Plywood and even Permanent with the first capital wooden houses in the city grew one after another. The matter never came to the launch of aircraft factories, it was decided to send the partially assembled equipment to other sites, but the transformation of Bunarka from a resort into an industrial zone has already become irreversible. In December 1945, a few months after the explosion over Hiroshima, new builders arrived here to build Plant No. 813, the first Soviet production of highly enriched uranium. It is impressive that the ultra-modern enterprise at that time was built by manual labor, and even the horse remained the main transport at that construction site. By 1947, there were already a boiler room, workshops and a stone settlement nearby, and in 1949 the plant produced the first uranium-235. Here it should be noted that the first Soviet atomic bomb RDS-1, exploded in 1949 at the Semipalatinsk test site, was on plutonium, which was obtained in the present Chelyabinsk Ozersk, and here the regalia is different - on the products of the Ural Electrochemical Plant in 1954, the world's first nuclear power plant was launched in Obninsk. In the same year, the nameless village, which was referred to in the documents as "base No. 5", "building No. 865" or "p / box 16" became a city and received the code name Sverdlovsk-44.

Well, in Novouralsk, having registered on the maps and looking at overseas, as it seemed then, friends, Sverdlovsk-44 became in 1994. Among the Russian ZATOs, it is one of the largest (after Seversk, Sarov and Zheleznogorsk) and beautiful - in the picturesque Bunarka valley there are many interesting examples of Stalinist and late Soviet architecture, but an outsider can admire them only in the blog gurini , where Novouralsk . Well, Oleg suggested that I drive up to the checkpoint, and when I was afraid they would be tied up there, he just waved his hand - who needs it? Behind the long (614m) dam, right on which stands a very small Verkh-Neyvinsky plant, and a high overpass over the tracks, from which the long workshops of Novouralsk factories are visible, there is an entrance sign and all sorts of warehouses and wholesale depots:

Ordinary like city blocks - only behind a high fence:

Near the station there is a bustling market where ZATO residents meet merchants from the surrounding villages and southern republics, and behind the station there is a checkpoint, the main gate of this makeshift Soviet fortress. Outside the gates is a completely ordinary-looking city: high-rise buildings, cars, streets, stalls ... And my camera was really not interesting to anyone here, only one elderly engineer in huge glasses looked at me intently, and then, probably, he really waved his hand, considering that it's already another time in the yard.

The station of the 1960s is equipped with a hefty hotel for business travelers, who had an overlay with a pass, and relatives who came to visit the nuclear workers. In the age of the Internet, she obviously has few guests.

The paths of the station are amazingly beautiful along the edge of the pond, stretching for 20 kilometers to the very lake Tavatui:

To the question "What are we photographing!" I had a ready answer - "Ducks!". At least the answer is "cat!" rolled even in the DPR.

Behind the pond - both mountains of Verkh-Neyvinska and the plant on the dam:

Center of the old village:

Finally, let's go up to the Church of the Resurrection, so pompously placed on the slope:

It is believed that it was built in 1840-48, but it was rather a major reconstruction - the building is based on the Old Believer chapel of the 1820s, although now nothing reminds of this. The best views of the city are not from the church itself, but from that cliff to the right:

At a glance both Verkh-Neyvinsky and Novouralsk are on opposite sides of the pond:

The station behind the pond and the chimes on the Countess House:

Verkh-Neyvinsky plant - as you can see, the old buildings cannot be seen from here either. Novorualsk in the background is fairly spread out over the ravines. In addition to UEIP, there was a whole conglomerate of factories, including even the automobile building AMUR (like ChAZ in Tajikistan, based on ZiL, but not buses for Minsredmash, but trucks), and most of them are now in a deplorable state. Therefore, those who do not work for UEIP have the same problems as in the outside world - many ZATO residents go to work in Yekaterinburg or Nizhny Tagil. All the posts from Novouralsk that I have seen are full of grief and pessimism.

But UEIP itself still accounts for 49% of Russian uranium enrichment, and Russia for 45% of the world's production of highly enriched isotopes, that is, a quarter of the world's production in their industry is concentrated in these squat buildings. The enrichment of uranium ore and the enrichment of uranium itself are completely different processes: in nature, uranium contains only 0.7% of the isotope U235, this "bread" of nuclear technology, while a nuclear reactor needs a fraction of 2-5%, and for an explosion of an atomic bombs - under 90%. But there is a wonderful gas fluorine, the most aggressive chemical element that reacts even with gold and platinum, and water burns in its jet. Since 1946, a chemical plant has been producing uranium hexafluoride - white crystals, which, at the verge of room temperature, become an incredibly poisonous gas. Such gaseous uranium is enriched completely mechanically: the Americans initially "filtered" it through thousands of membranes, and separation turned out to be closer to Soviet science: by the 1950s, a much more efficient method for separating isotopes using gas centrifuges was created in the USSR, the production of which was launched in 1955 in the Vladimir region. In 1957, the first centrifuges arrived at the plant in the future Novouralsk - from that moment on, the Soviet warhead became significantly cheaper than the American one, and the Communists made a breakthrough in the "arms race". A modern gas centrifuge produces up to 2000 revolutions per second, but at the same time it should serve for a long time - it is extremely difficult to replace a worn-out spare part in such a unit, and besides, all the parts quickly begin to "sink". Therefore, even the first uranium centrifuges had to spin for at least 3 years, and the service life of modern "ninth generation" centrifuges reaches 15 and even 30 (!) years - and this, for a minute, is 1-2 trillion revolutions. At the same time, the last 4 generations of Russian centrifuges were created after the collapse of the USSR, and now the tenth generation is on the way. In the production of such centrifuges, Russia is still a firm leader, and there is only one competitor in this industry - the prefabricated Western (England, Germany, Holland, France, USA) company URENCO, in terms of production yields to our TVEL by about a third, and all of it the staff is less than the number of employees of UEIP alone. But just looking at these buildings, along with pride for the state, I also remember the sad dynamics of "Roskosmos" 2010s and I think - for how long will this leadership remain with us?

Leaving Verkh-Neyvinsk, we drive along the Nizhny Tagil - Yekaterinburg highway. The rocks near the road impressed me very much in 2004, when I passed here for the first time, and as a tribute to that youthful memory, I asked to stop to take pictures of them.

And after a dozen kilometers we again turned right, to the village with a funny name Tavatui. It stands on the lake of the same name, now merged with the Verkh-Neyvinsky pond, and this lake has long been considered the cleanest in the Urals and fabulously rich in fish. Especially - with a ruff, which was delivered from here to the royal table, and locals believe that it was the Tavatyu fishermen who invented the self-shaking baubles in their time. Be that as it may, it was not the industry that harmed the lake - in the village of Tavatuy on its eastern shore, officially there are only a few hundred inhabitants, but in fact there is a huge holiday village where luxurious and sometimes quite interesting mansions adjoin the huts.

Although there are not so few old houses left here:

And when you go out onto the shore of Lake Tavatui strewn with boats, you can see a cape with a cross in front:

Behind a low fence is a dilapidated cemetery with rare crosses and golbts in the middle of weeds:

With its sweaty atmosphere, it most of all resembles, and in fact it is a continuation of them. After the "forcing" (that is, the defeat of those monasteries), many Old Believers reached out to the Urals, where they were willingly taken to factories, especially since the Old Believers from among the archers and an ally of Avvakum himself Lazar, who later disappeared in. Basically, these were priests who allowed the "Nikonian" priests to go over to the Old Belief while retaining their rank - however, they were very strict, who eventually turned into "chapelless" priests. But from the very beginning, the "pomortsy" also preached in the Urals - the most moderate wing of the radical bespopovtsy, who considered the transition to the Old Belief possible only through repeated Baptism and therefore lost their clergy. There was no sea in the Urals, so Pomor sketes settled off the coast of Tavatuy. Their spiritual leader was Gavrila Semyonov, also known as Ilya Ukraintsev - despite the fact that he had nothing to do with Ukraine, he was originally from Olonets. In his wanderings in the Urals and Siberia, he acquired the skills of a miner, became friends with Akinfiy Demidov and even pissed, from which the cunning breeder rubbed his hands happily - in the presence of silver, production facilities allowed him to mint a coin that was not inferior to state samples ... and put it in his pocket . Under the protection of the Leaning Tower, the Tavatuysky skete existed for about 20 years, Ukraintsev preached in the Urals and even polemicized with the Catholic Church in letters, and bells were poured at the Demidov factories for Old Believer churches throughout Russia. Vygoretsky monks from the Karelian Pomerania also did not remain in debt and sent Demidov, for example, "sea crayfish" (that is, crabs and shrimps) for the Kunstkamera. But the idyll ended in 1745, with the death of Akinfiy Nikitich, and in 1750 the tsarist authorities destroyed the Tavatuysky monastery, and if the “chapels” who initially had no center retained their faith in the dense forests and villages, then the much more hierarchical Pomeranian Church in the Urals already did not recover.

On the cape, however, not the sketes themselves, but only the grave of Gavrila Ukraintsev, who quietly died in his bed on the eve of the rout.

The sky has fallen blue
Into the quiet pond...
Here in the hottest summer heat
Cool water.
And I want to dive into the sky
Like in a whirlpool, with a head ...
To drown in transparent blue
Sail away to paradise, unearthly!
And hot air, fresh,
On the edge of the pond...
The yacht is rushing - it cuts the waves, -
And the water is foaming.
There are no clouds in the sky...
All clouds are gone.
And we are not afraid of the summer heat -
Tan like in Bali!
18.07.2010

From the history of the appearance of the Miracle Pond, along which stretches an amazing
Novouralsk and the village of VERKH-NEYVINSKY.
Resting a few years ago in the sanatorium "GREEN CAPE", located
near the pond, I was surprised that this pond is artificial ...
Born in Transbaikalia, and being a biologist, studying my native land, I considered and still consider Baikal the most important miracle of my land...
Having turned out to be an irony of fate in NOVOURALSK, and studying the flora and fauna from books, I cannot but tell readers and co-authors about this MIRACLE ...
The city of Novouralsk lies between two ponds, Verkh-Neyvinsky and Rudyansky. The Rudyansky pond is younger than Verkh-Neyvinsky. Both ponds were created in the Demidov era, when for the needs of the plant on the Neiva River (almost NEVA)
a large pond was dammed.
The pond is an adornment of the city and the village.
The length of the pond from north to south is about 10 km., Width up to 2 km.
The surface area of ​​the water is 17 sq. km! The water level mark above the sea is 263.5 meters. In the south, Verkh-Neyvinsky Pond connects with Lake TAVATUI.
Decree of Imperial Majesty Peter the Third, dated April 3, 1762
A decree was signed in which Prokopy Demidov was allowed to build an iron-water plant and the construction of a dam.
The construction of the dam ended in 1764.
Amazing places along the coast of the pond!
On the morning of July 2010, walking along the shore of the pond, I saw
a unique sight - a floating island! All in greenery, with growing birches,
he slowly sailed towards our shore ... and after forty minutes landed on the shore ... All day long, all the vacationers admired the picture of wildlife ... In the evening, the island also slowly sailed away, its current carried further ...
There are separate islands, and entire archipelagos, deaf bays, trimmed with coastal rafts, and wandering rafts.
The beach on the shore of the pond is a favorite vacation spot for citizens.
I invite my friends and acquaintances from the Tver region and from my native Chita to rest.

Reviews

Lucy, hello. Found my compatriot! Very beautiful photo! And what you write about your native places is interesting. When I go by train from Yekaterinburg to Tagil, I see your seats. But now I rarely go there, because. I have been living in Ukraine for a long time, but I miss those places. I give you a link (nostalgic) ttp://www.site/2016/01/28/4739

The daily audience of the Potihi.ru portal is about 200 thousand visitors, who in total view more than two million pages according to the traffic counter, which is located to the right of this text. Each column contains two numbers: the number of views and the number of visitors.

Recently we were on the bank of the Small Pond. We had a master class with children from the Uralochka dispensary. After that, we went out to the beach to get some air.
The small pond in Verkh-Neyvinsk was created a little later than the large pond and is many times smaller in size. But it was intended for the same purposes as an energy storage device for factory mechanisms. Just below its dam was the Nizhny Verkh-Neyvinsky plant. Someone told me that the first rolling mill in Russia was right here, at the Nizhny Zavod. True, nothing remains of this plant to this day.

The Small Pond does not freeze where the Neiva flows into it. And then the fishermen are already walking on the ice.
“Suicide bombers,” Alya said about them.
In fact, the ice there is quite thick.

And this is the old bridge across the Neiva. When the concrete one was built, this one was simply thrown into the river.

Here, on the Small Pond, we occasionally went swimming in the summer. Usually after some work. Sometimes it happened that you go here and swim for the only time in the whole summer. And then either once or the weather will deteriorate.
There are few houses on this side of the Neiva. And once there was a small district of the village, which was called Zareka. Here lived, as they say, former prisoners who built Novouralsk. They were not allowed into the closed city itself after their release, and there was nowhere to go. No one in their native lands was especially waiting for them. So they bought houses here. Buying a small house in those years was not so expensive.
Many houses in this region were demolished in the 80s when they guessed to measure the level of harmful substances in the soil. And they found that the soil here is heavily contaminated with lead. It is not surprising, the plant is nearby. Previously, there was a special line on it, where old batteries were picked up, extracting lead from them, which was smelted.

These buildings on the shore are the Uralochka dispensary. Once a factory, but today - for orphanage children. They are brought here from orphanages in the region. They bring him to get medical treatment and just to change impressions.

And if you look upstream. There are strong old houses on stone foundations.

Someone rich built this house. Probably back in the 19th century. A sturdy shed with wide gates overlooking the garden. Wide fence gates are a sign that the garden was plowed on a horse. And a gallery with chiseled columns on the second floor. Someone lived here in a big way.

Verkh-Neyvinsky Pond or Verkh-Neyvinsky Reservoir is a great place to relax, located at a distance of about 70 km from Yekaterinburg.

In the southern part, it merges with Lake Tavatui, which is a real pearl of the Urals. The area around is mountain-taiga. From all sides the pond is surrounded by forests and mountain peaks. All this makes this place unusually picturesque.

Reference: The Verkh-Neyvinsky reservoir was created in 1764, on the Neiva River. Its length is up to 10 km, its width is up to 2 km, and its area is about 17 square meters. The average depth is 3 meters, the maximum is up to 7 meters.

Seagulls fly near the Verkh-Nevinsky reservoir, frogs are found here, ducks swim. Fishermen come here for roach, perch, bream, ruff, pike, burbot and other fish.

On the eastern shore is the city of Novouralsk. There is also a city beach.

Also along the shore of the Verkh-Neyvinsky reservoir there are garden houses, a yacht club (triangular sails of various colors constantly turn white on the lake), a sanatorium, and several recreation centers.

Verkh-Neyvinsky Pond is distinguished by a large number of islands. From the smallest, often hiding under water, to very large ones. The largest island - Yelnichny reaches 1.5 km. Fishermen often stop here, lovers of the so-called "wild" recreation with tents.

There are also many bays, each of which has its own name. For example, Verevkin Angle Bay.

The Black Cape Peninsula and the entire western part of the lake are favorite vacation spots for locals and visitors. The infrastructure is quite developed. Verkh-Neyvinsky Pond is a great place for lovers of sailing ships. Here you can rent boats, catamarans, for everyone - sailing on yachts, boats.

The shores of the reservoir are partly rocky, partly overgrown with sedge. Equipped beaches - sandy.

Pros:

Very beautiful area, equipped free beaches, recognized as safe for swimming, clean warm water.

Minuses:

On weekends and on hot weekdays - a lot of tourists. You must reserve a seat in advance. Nowhere to park a car. Part of the water surface is swampy - about 30% of the entire reservoir.

How to get there:

By private car: from Yekaterinburg we head along the highway Yekaterinburg - Nizhny Tagil in the region of 69-70 kilometers, turn left, following the signs to Verkh-Neyvinsk and Novouralsk. Then we move about 10 km, we pass the village of Verkh-Neyvinsky, we reach the pond.

http://tk.atomsk.ru/personal/story/pvd/novouralsk.php#route10