Altai white whale climbing. Climbing Belukha. Full service. Security and insurance

Trekking to Belukha This is no ordinary sporting event. This is a unique experience of climbing a mountain of unsurpassed beauty, a mysterious peak, a place of power called the Altai Shambhala. The name of the peak comes from the huge layer of snow that covers the mountain from the peak to the very base. Like a mirage, Belukha rises above the taiga-covered ridges of Altai, as if a symbol of the highest perfection and pristine purity of the world.

Belukha is one of the largest peaks in Russia and the highest mountain in Siberia. Belukha is the highest point of the Altai Mountains, located on the border of Russia and Kazakhstan on the Katun Ridge. It has two peaks - Eastern (4509 m) and Western (4435 m). We will climb East Belukha, which is higher.

Belukha is a sacred mountain for local peoples. Buddhists believe that there is the cherished country of the gods of Shambhala, a paradise that will appear to the world when people disappear from the face of the Earth. The Old Believers claim that somewhere near Belukha there is a secret entrance to the magical country of Belovodie.

In addition to the beauties of Belukha itself, every tourist admires the passage of the Akkemskaya trail along the picturesque edge of the Altai lakes, rivers, waterfalls, taiga and mountain ranges.

Travelers from all over the world come to climb this great mountain. Everyone will find his own here: some peace of mind, and some extreme adventure, but only the brave in spirit can stand on this mystical peak. So let's, without delay, let's make this unforgettable ascent together!

If you are not ready to climb yet, but want to see the Altai mountains, then you can go Hiking to the Altai to the foot of Belukha

1 day. Novosibirsk

Group meeting in Novosibirsk at 18:30 local time. After collecting and solving organizational issues, we move to the village of Tungur. The way is not close, about 14 hours. We eat at roadside cafes.

Day 2 Tungur

We issue passes at the frontier post, as East Belukha is located in the border zone of Russia and Kazakhstan. Upon arrival in the village of Tungur, we set up a tent camp on the territory of the camp site. Passing a safety briefing and checking personal equipment. Distribution of food and public equipment (some of them will be delivered on horseback).

Day 3 Tungur - Kuzuyak pass (1513 m) - glade "Three Birches"

Off-road transfer to the Kuzuyak pass. In case of favorable weather, we will go further to the glade "Three Birches". If it is problematic to pass, then part of the way after the pass (about 9 km) will have to be covered on foot. Along the picturesque path passing through the forest, we go out to the Akkem stream. We set up camp near the beautiful Tekelyu waterfall.

Day 4 Glade "Three Birches" - Lake Akkem (2100 m)

Along the path along the Akkem River we pass to the Akkem Lake, admiring excellent views of the Belukha massif along the way. Horses with our equipment will also come out to the lake. We spend the night on the shore of the lake.

Day 5 Akkem lake - Akkem glacier - Tomsk sites (3000 m)

We get up early - today we have big plans. Leaving the lake, we begin to climb, cross the Akkemsky glacier and go to the Tomsk sites, where we will spend the night. On the way we will visit the chapel.

Day 6 Watermelon Glacier - Delaunay Pass

Today, the program includes enhanced training necessary for a successful ascent of Belukha. On the Arbuz glacier, we will work out the technique of moving in bundles, in crampons, with an ice ax. Then we will make an acclimatization ascent to the Delaunay pass. We return to the Tomsk sites for the night.

Day 7 Delaunay pass (3300 m) - Mensu glacier - Big Berelskoye Saddle pass (3520 m)

We leave the Tomsk sites and climb, using climbing equipment, to the Delaunay Pass - a 300-meter slope with an inclination of 30-40 degrees. This is the beginning of our ascent. After crossing the Delone, we will go to the Mensu glacier and then we will climb to the BBS pass. On the pass, under the guidance of instructors, we set up a camp.

Day 8 Climbing East Belukha (4509 m)

Today we will try to fulfill our cherished goal - to climb to the top of Eastern Belukha. We leave at 3-4 in the morning. We climb in bundles to the Belukhinsky pass and move further along the ridge of the peak. And now, finally, we are on the highest peak of Siberia! We contemplate incredible mountain views around, congratulate each other. We descend back to our assault camp at the BBS pass.

Day 9 Reserve day

Spare day in case of bad weather.

Day 10 BBS pass - Mensu glacier - Delaunay pass - Tomsk sites - Lake Akkem

We go down the same way we went up. From the BBS pass we will get to the Mensu glacier, descend from the Delone pass to the Tomsk sites and further to Akkemskoye lake.

Day 11 Akkem lake - Tekelu waterfall - glade "Three birches"

From Akkemskoe Lake we pass to the glade familiar to us "Three Birches". It is possible to send some of the things from the lake to Tungur on horseback. This must be agreed with the instructor at the beginning of the trip.

Day 12 Glade "Three birches" - Kuzuyak pass (1513 m) - Tyungur

From the glade "Three Birches" we go towards the transport that will take us to the village of Tungur. In the village we will have a hot bath and a farewell dinner. Late in the evening we leave for Novosibirsk by minibus.

Day 13 Novosibirsk - return home

We arrive in Novosibirsk at 16:00. Our trip to Belukha is over. We say goodbye and go home.

The cost of participation in the tour: 56 800 rub

Payment is made on the day of the meeting with the instructor in rubles.

To book a place in a group, you must make an advance payment of 15% of the cost of the trip. In case of cancellation of the trip no later than a month before the start of the tour, the prepayment is not refundable, but remains on your "account" to pay for future hikes and ascents during the year.

The price of the tour includes: personal climbing equipment (if you have your own, the cost is reduced by 4000 rubles): system, helmet, ice ax, crampons, descender, jumar, carabiners, self-belay; delivery of public equipment and provisions on horseback (parts of personal climbing equipment), transfer to or through the Kuzuyak pass on off-road vehicles, cook services on days 3, 4, 5 and 10, 11, 12 of the trip according to the schedule, transfer Novosibirsk-Tyungur and Tungur -Novosibirsk, meals on the route, group medical kit, group medical insurance (issued only for the period of ascent: 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th days according to the schedule), instructors' services, sauna, accommodation at the base in Tungur village in tents, group tourist equipment (tents, campfire and gas equipment), accommodation in a campsite on Lake Akkem, group climbing equipment (ropes, ice drills, station loops), registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations, walkie-talkies and equipment for navigation, satellite communications for emergency case.

The cost of the tour does not include: air tickets to Novosibirsk, food on the way to Tungur and Tungur (on average 150-200 rubles per lunch), additional baths, extended medical insurance.

Features of the trip to Belukha

• Climbing Belukha is potentially dangerous for the health and life of any of the participants. The instructors take all measures for the safe conduct of the ascent, while the participants are required to strictly comply with safety regulations. Under conditions that prevent a safe ascent, the instructor may decide to abort the ascent, and this decision is non-negotiable. In case of early departure from the route without a good reason (illness, injury), the money is not returned!
• Attention! Due to the fact that the hike to Belukha passes through the border area, residents of the Russian Federation must provide documents for issuing passes 1 month in advance, and non-residents of the Russian Federation 2 months before the start of the hike!
• Depending on weather conditions and the condition of the group, the itinerary may be subject to change.
• Day crossings on the route - from 10 to 25 km.
• Group size is usually 5 to 12 people, accompanied by one or two guides.
• In the hiking part of the route, food is prepared by a chef. On the ascent, we cook our own food. A burner, gas and food will be allocated for each tent.
• The delivery of food, public equipment and a part of personal climbing equipment is carried out on horseback.

Special project Ch

The purpose of the expedition:
– an attempt to climb Mount Belukha Vostochnaya - the highest peak in Siberia (4506 m);
– creation of a documentary film (using photos and video materials of the participants).

The vertical limit of Siberia - ascent

Photo by usachov

Short:
- Climbing Belukha takes place in the border zone of the Altai Mountains, at the junction of Russia, China, Mongolia and Kazakhstan;
-expedition in the habitat of the mystical "snow demon - Yeti";
-visiting protected areas.

Dates: 19.06 (2 places left), 29.07 (3 places), 20.08 (upd 7/07 5 places) for 14 nights
Forwarding fee: 46,550 rubles. per person

Accommodation: in tents
Nutrition three times a day, corresponding to expeditionary conditions.

Belukha is the highest peak of Altai and Siberia, the most powerful knot of mountain glaciation in Altai. The western (4440 m) and eastern (4506 m) peaks are separated by the famous "Belukhin saddle". Altaians call this peak very poetically - "Uch-Sumer", "Kadyn-Baazhi", "Ak-Sumer". Belukha is located on the territory of the Ust-Koksinsky district. The swift mountain river Katun also originates here.
Climbing Belukha is a test of one's own physical and spiritual strength. In addition to the fact that the climber must be in good physical shape, you also need to decide on this bold step.
Climbing East Belukha 4506 m is a unique opportunity to conquer one of the most famous peaks in the world. Thanks to the work of N.K. Roerich Belukha has long been world famous as the place where the mysterious country - Belovodie, is widely described in his work. Beluga whale in the Altai Mountains is, of course, a place of power, a sacred peak, which is sacred to the local population.

Weather: Summer is the best time to climb Mount Belukha. The weather is quite stable and sunny. Daytime temperature on the track is +20+23, at night +13+15. The temperature at an altitude of 3000 and more + 5 + 12, at night the temperature may drop to -7.
Requirements: Expedition to Gorny Altai to Mount Belukha will be led by experienced travelers. Climbing requires specific skills and endurance. You will master all this on ice and rock lessons, under the guidance of an instructor. But do not forget about your own physical form. Assistance with daily bivouac work is required. Food on the river and in the base camp is cooked on a fire and gas by a cook; on the ascent, participants cook their own food on a gas burner in a tent. Given the high altitude of the area, a preliminary consultation with a doctor is necessary. Expeditionary conditions imply neglect of comfort.
Vaccination against tick-borne encephalitis is required.
Note: Climbing Mount Belukha will be carried out in the extremely high-mountainous region of the Altai Republic, therefore, changes and actions are possible in the expedition route according to the situation.

The history of the conquest of Belukha
The first mention of Belukha, as the highest peak of Altai, dates back to the end of the 18th century. Much later, Mount Belukha was first described by Gebler, who also determined the height of the eastern peak of Belukha (4506 meters above sea level). The names of such scientists as V.V. Sapozhnikov, A. Humboldt, N.K. Roerich and others. The first attempts to conquer the peak were made at the end of the 19th century, but all of them were unsuccessful, the ascent to Belukha was never made. It is difficult to say how many attempts were made to climb Belukha. There are no exact statistics. The first who made a successful ascent of Mount Belukha in 1914 were Russians: Boris and Mikhail Tronov. Actually restless brothers laid the tradition of climbing this beautiful and mysterious mountain range. Currently, every year dozens of people conquer the crown of the Katunsky ridge.

Preparation for the ascent
Nowadays, every Russian traveler at least once thought about how to conquer this insidious peak. Technically, Belukha is a rather difficult peak. The simplest climbing route is rated category 3A, it is higher in complexity, for example, than the highest point in Russia - Mount Elbrus in the Greater Caucasus. At the same time, the highest point of Altai is a thousand meters less.
Climbing Belukha along the "classic route" through the Delaunay Pass is not technically difficult. In the climbers' classifier - this route is assigned category 3A. For beginners and beginners, a trip to Belukha is a rather serious test. The route to Belukha has two key sections: the Delone (3400 m) and Belukhinsky (4200 m) passes, which require participants to have certain technical skills - the ability to carry out insurance and self-insurance, move along the fixed rope, move “two steps”. Don't let the special terms scare you. During the transitions and special classes, we will help you acquire the necessary minimum skills for a successful ascent of Belukha. At the same time, the success of the ascent, which lasts several days, largely depends on the weather. You should listen to the opinion of the guides regarding the weather conditions.
Climbing Belukha (4506 m) requires acclimatization. Preliminary acclimatization is welcome. For example, periodic, during the year, trips to the mountains and stay at altitudes from 1800 to 4000 meters. For physical training we recommend: running, cross-country skiing, cycling, swimming, many hours of walking (with ski poles), yoga. Alpine skiing and snowboarding are good for acclimatization and physical training, but only in combination with aerobic exercise. In daily life, avoid using the elevator. Remember, walking up stairs is one of the best ways to prepare for climbing. For technical training, we recommend attending rock climbing and ice climbing classes (sections exist in almost all major cities). There, you can get a general idea about belay and self-belay, as well as acquire some skills in using personal climbing equipment and techniques for moving on rocky and ice-snow areas. It's great if you have climbing experience.

Security and insurance
We pay great attention to safety. Our guides are real professionals: they have high sports ranks in mountaineering and are experienced mountaineering instructors and methodologists. Participants are insured under the program of the Ingosstrakh-Barnaul insurance company, which provides coverage for medical expenses and accident expenses, as well as search and rescue operations, including using helicopters of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. During the ascent, our team is in direct contact with the base camp and the camp of the Ministry of Emergency Situations on Ak-Kem. Rescuers are always ready to help us. The first-aid kit meets the necessary requirements for alpine activities.

Nutrition is not only a pleasant pastime, but also a vital necessity, especially in the mountains. Properly selected and varied diet is our hallmark in the preparation of expeditions. In the base camp and on the track, the cook is in charge of cooking. In the base camp on Lake Akkem, there is a cabin-company tent, where at camping tables and chairs you can not only eat, but also in the evenings by the light of gas burners, discuss the features of the ascent. During the ascent, cooking is structured differently. Each tent (2 participants) is given a set of products, gas, a gas burner, a set of dishes for a gas burner (2 people). After receiving a little instruction, the participants cook their own food. This is dictated by considerations of efficiency, autonomy, convenience and security.

The expedition fee includes:
- transfer: Barnaul - Tungur - Barnaul;
- Expedition support: 2 guides, cook, groom;
- food corresponding to expeditionary conditions;
- medical insurance;
- pack horses;
- airport transfer.

Additionally paid:
- use of satellite communications;
- expenses associated with the purchase of souvenirs;
- alcoholic drinks;
- rooms in a hotel in Barnaul.
- transfer:
air flight Moscow-Barnaul-Moscow - air travel ~ 4 hours from 17840 rubles (on 19.06 and 20.08), from 19690 rubles (on 29.07) per person (direct)
or railway, it will be possible to purchase railway tickets from us 45 days before the date of departure, approximate prices - Moscow - Barnaul - Moscow, on the way, depending on the train, ~ 55 -59 hours, price from 6880 rubles. - reserved seat and from 12850 rubles. - a place in a compartment,
+ 20 EUR service fee per ticket

During the trip, participants are provided with:
- climbing equipment
- sleeping bag Basque PACIFIC -30C;
- tents 2 local Bask SHARK FIN FLAP;
- heat-insulating mat;
- group tent (10-15 places);
- dishes;
- tables, chairs and other bivouac furniture;
- branded T-shirt;
- radio stations, Iridium satellite communications;
- first aid kit.

Description of the expedition itinerary:

1 day.
Arrival in Barnaul. Moving to the office. Then transfer to the first place of overnight stay in the village of Tungur. The journey takes about 10 hours. Transfer by comfortable minibuses. The road does not present any particular difficulties, especially the asphalted part of the Chuysky Trakt. Lunch at the cafe. In the evening, bath and dinner with fresh village products - meat, potatoes, home-made cheese, herbal tea. Accommodation in cottages with a fireplace. Further, all overnight stays in tents. The food is prepared by the cook on a fire or gas.

2-3 Day.
Breakfast. Then transfer (1 hour) to the starting point, where pack horses will be waiting for us. Climbing Mount Belukha in the Altai Mountains means a lot of group and personal equipment, plus food. Members of sports groups carry all this in their backpacks, we are lazy people, that's why we hire pack horses. Your climbing boots can also be unloaded on horses, which, as a rule, have a decent weight and volume. Participants carry clothes and a sleeping bag in backpacks (the weight of a backpack on the track to the base camp does not exceed 7-10 kg). A two-day trekking begins and, at the same time, a good acclimatization stage through the Karatyurek Pass (3060 m a.s.l.), up the Kucherla River to the base camp on the shore of Lake Akkemskoe (2150 m a.s.l.).

Day 4
Pass Kara-Turek. In good weather, from here, perhaps, the best view of the Belukha massif. Then 3 or 4-hour descent to Akkem lake (2150 meters above sea level)! We live in our base camp on the territory of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia and prepare for the ascent. The camp has a 20-seat tent-dining room, where participants can not only eat quietly at the tables, but also spend their free time. There is also a tent-kitchen, where entry is strictly prohibited without a permit book and a white coat.

Day 5
Depending on the weather and tactical considerations: either a) we rest in the base camp and calmly prepare for the ascent, or b) we actively gather, and closer to lunch we leave for the intermediate camp "Tomskie Stoyanki" at an altitude of 3000 meters. There is a mountain hut here, where some, after climbing, rest and remember the past, while others, before going on the route, listen with trepidation and secret envy to those who have returned from the mountain. All daylight on the road. The weight of the backpack noticeably grows up to 12-15 kg. (individual climbing equipment + gas + products). Climbing the Akkem glacier. The approach to the Tomsk Parking is, perhaps, one of the most physically and psychologically difficult days of the ascent. Firstly, backpacks are already stuffed not only with personal belongings and a sleeping bag, but also with food for 4-5 days, with one tent for two and a set of climbing equipment! Secondly, you will have a rather long, distance (12 km) transition with a serious climb from 2150 to 3000 meters above sea level. We sleep in tents. Now all participants live in tents in pairs. For each "deuce" are given: products (including sublimated products), a set of gas utensils, a gas burner and two gas cylinders of 450 gr each. After a short briefing, the participants cook their own food until they return to the base camp.

Day 6
Special technical training. Ice classes on a funny convex glacier - "Watermelon". Super intensive course. Teaching precisely those skills that will allow not only to climb, but also, if possible, to stay alive. Particularly acute experiences from the exercise "self-detention on the ice slope."

Day 7
Early morning, but all the participants are already on their feet. Breakfast. Exit under the Delaunay Pass (45 minutes). The guides fix the "railing" on the Delaunay Pass (3400m). After the pass, a transition along the huge snow-ice field of the Mensu glacier. Further, the ascent again without a railing rope to the Berel pass. Setting up the camp. We set up tents in the snow. We spend the night at an altitude of 3520 meters.

Day 8
Early rise, at 4 o'clock in the morning. We have breakfast. The first obstacle is the TKT pass with a height of 3800 meters. A huge icefall hangs here, this is the place where the glacier on a steep terrain begins to crack, forming a kind of ice relief with giant cracks and ice rocks - "seracs". This place fascinates with its wild beauty. Breathing becomes more difficult. Ahead is another "perilny section" - Belukhinsky pass with a height of 4300 meters. A huge saddle and the second peak of Belukha open from the pass. Beginning of the summit. After 3 hours of work on a rather steep ice-snow slope, the participants are on the highest peak in Siberia. In case of good weather, a 30-minute rest at the summit. Descent to the Berel saddle, then after a short rest downhill to the "Tomsk parking".

Day 9
Descent to the base camp on Ak-Kem lake. Bath. Free time. And there was a day, and there was rest. There is no more wonderful bath than the bath on the Akkem lake. After the steam room, dive into Ak-Kem, and there the water is +4!!!

Day 10
A day in case of stormy weather.

11-12 Day.
Trekking in the mountain forest and forest-steppe zone with light backpacks along the Akkem River through the Kuzuyak Pass (1340 m).

Day 13
Arrival and overnight at the recreation center in the village of Tungur. Bath with access to a mountain stream. Farewell dinner with fresh country products. Overnight stay in cottages.

Day 14
Breakfast. Arrival in Barnaul. Transfer to the hotel.

Day 15
Airport transfer.

List of recommended personal equipment: mountain climbing boots; backpack (80 liters or more); warm jacket with a hood with down or synthetic filling; storm clothing set: jacket and trousers; warm jacket and trousers from Polartec; thermal underwear; a cap; trekking poles; sunscreen (protection factor of at least 30); headlamp; Sunglasses; gloves or mittens; light summer clothing: cap, trousers, shorts, T-shirts, sandals (for the transport part).

Climbing Belukha August 9th, 2009

Current Music: Winds

General information: length - 112 km (actually more); difficulty category - 3b, 3a; distance from Barnaul - 735 km; 12 walking days + 2 days of travel. Height in. Belukha zap. - 4506m above sea level! The number of groups that climbed to the top - 2!

The following items were included in the itinerary:

• Transfer Barnaul - Tyungur settlement. We hire horses to Lake Akkem for transportation of equipment;


• Tyungur village - Kucherla village - Kara-Turek pass - "Meteorological station" parking lot or "Kedrovaya" parking lot;


• pass Kara-Turek - lake Akkem;


• Training day. Customization of personal equipment. Basic skills training;


• lake Akkem - "Tomsk parking";


• Training day. Ice classes on the glacier "Arbuz". Hanging the Delaunay pass;


• "Tomsk sites" - "Berel saddle";


• Reserve day in case of bad weather;


• Ascent to Belukha and descent to the "Tomsk parking";


• "Tomsk parking" - Lake Akkem, bathhouse;


• Daytime. Day of rest. Radial exits are possible (Yarlu Valley/Seven Lakes Valley/Edelweiss Valley);


• lake Akkem - river Akkem;


• Akkem river - "Three birches" camp - Kuzuyak pass - Kucherla village - Tyungur village;


• Transfer Tungur - Barnaul.

The approach to Lake Akkem takes 3 days through the Kara-Turek pass: beautiful, picturesque, tiring. On the lake, we check in with the Barnaul rescuers, wash ourselves in a bathhouse, adjust equipment, teach participants to hold jumars (rope clamps), refuel eights (descending devices).

The "Members," as the world-class lifeguards call them, are top-notch beginners. They know about mountaineering from books, some even went to Elbrus, the latter is remembered as a fairy tale.

Trekking to Belukha is not easy: avalanches, rockfalls, long and exhausting crossings, changeable weather. Several times a day it rains, snows, groats, storm winds come up. An insurmountable obstacle for women is a large scree and rappelling.

During the ascents, I managed to get a burn on my face, and, at the same time, I got a little bit of frostbite on my toes. On top of that, during the descent of the second group of participants, they fell into a thundercloud. His clothes hissed from static electricity, his helmet was on fire, and sparks seemed to shoot from his eyes. And how much iron hung on the systems (safety harness) - drills, carbines, ice axes and more! But overall everything was great! The summit opened up to us, and the endless mountain expanses were forever imprinted in the memory of cameras.

With the first group we stormed the summit along the route 3A of the difficulty category. Exit from the Berel saddle along the Berelsky peak. Then they unraveled the icefall, overcoming huge cracks. (Khumbu is resting!)

Further to the Belukhinsky pass and walk along the ridge. They trailed "I don't want to", in some places up to the neck. We returned from the summit at 10 pm, barely moving our legs. It should be noted that this year on Akkem turned out to be snowy, there is a high avalanche danger in the area. Wow!

With the second group, we decided to go the classic route. Achtung! For those who are in the tank and think that 3A is a classic. The classic passes through the Berelsky peak, and further from the Berelsky pass along the ridge - 3Bk.s. The main thing is not to fall with snow cornices into the so-called "pocket". The route is a little technically more difficult, but much safer.

They were seen off cheerfully and under the button accordion. Thanks to Roman and Krasnoyarsk colleagues for musical accompaniment!

The way back was overshadowed by heavy backpacks (Vasya's backpack weighed 40kg, mine was 25kg) and a small excess (but about that shhh!). We went down the lower path, along Akkem through the Kuzuyak pass (or maybe even Khuzuyak or Kuzuyakh!). Blue sky, green hills, wild strawberries, honeysuckle, currants - so this is what summer is like!

Bonuses:

• swimming after the steam room in the alpine lake Akkem


• accordionist Roman Buratinov concert


• summer snowy living room on a Berel saddle, live flute


• hoisting the flag of the Airborne Forces on Peak Peak


• wandering in milk


• overnight stay under bunks in a rescue house at an altitude of 3020m


• instructor's coffee with cognac


• mama akkemskaya


• ice watermelon


• visiting the high-altitude chapel


• badges "for climbing Belukha" from LenAlpTours.

What awaits us on the route

Picturesque views of the Chui tract.
- Unforgettable transfer on off-road vehicles.
- The bewitching beauty of the Tekelyu waterfall is a true natural masterpiece!
- Mount Belukha is a God-created place where a person feels light and free.
- The changing beauty of Ak-Kem Lake, which you can admire endlessly.
- Unusually strong in energy, a source of spiritual and physical healing -.
- Chapel of the Archangel Michael - will remind you of the danger of a frivolous attitude to the mountains.
- Delicate landscapes of lakes, pulsing with endless streams, and colorful meadows of alpine flowers, framed by the majestic mountain peaks of the "Valley of the Seven Lakes".

And we will also be transported to the world of beauty and peace, forgetting about the flow of time, we will feed on health and get a huge boost of energy from the Altai place of power.
Join.

Tour duration: 12 days / 11 nights
Number of participants: from 4 people

Age restrictions: from 18 years old

Arrival dates for 2020: 16.06-27.06, 07.07 - 18.07, 28.07 - 08.08, 12.08 - 23.08

Tour price: 50000 rub. (ALL INCLUSIVE)

Buy now for - 45000 rub.

Important information!

If you arrive in Barnaul on the day the tour starts, we will meet you at the airport and railway station.

Travel program
Climbing Belukha

1 day.
Barnaul - trans. Seminsky - s. Tungur

Meeting of participants in Barnaul (Gorno-Altaisk). Then on a comfortable minibus we go to the village. Tungur. We are accommodated at the base in houses (or on the territory of the base in tents). We're preparing dinner. Introduction to guides. Safety briefing. We are preparing things and equipment for sending on horseback to Lake Ak-Kem. Departure from Barnaul at 9-00. Arrival at the place in the evening. Automobile part of the route 750 km.

Day 2
With. Tungur - Kuzuyak pass - camp "Three birches" - camp "clamps"

In the morning we send food and equipment on horseback to Lake Ak-Kem. From s. Tungur, on a cross-country vehicle (GAZ 66), through the Kuzuyak pass (1513 m.) we will get to the Three Birches parking lot. Further along the mountain path, along the Ak-Kem River (translated from Altai as “White Water”), we will make a transition to the “pressers” parking lot. We set up camp in one of the clearings. Cooking dinner on the fire. Crossing 12 km.

Day 3
parking lot "clamps" - Tekelu waterfall - lake Ak-Kem

Breakfast. Along the same mountain path along the Ak-Kem River, bypassing the Tekelyu waterfall (left aside), we will reach Ak-Kem Lake (by lunchtime). Today we will see the most picturesque panoramas of the Belukha mountain range. We meet the sent items. Getting ready for the ascent. Overnight in tents on the shore of the lake. Crossing 8-9 km.

Day 4
lake Ak-Kem - Ak-Kem glacier - Tomsk sites

Along the trail, along the Ak-Kemskoye Lake, mime of the chapel of the Archangel Michael (The highest-lying religious building in Russia, dedicated to the memory of the fallen climbers.), We will go to the Rodzevich Glacier (Ak-Kemsky Glacier). After a long climb along the glacier and moraine, we will reach the Tomsk sites. Overnight in tents. Crossing 10 km.

Day 5

Today snow and ice lessons on the glacier. Under the guidance of a guide, we will master the organization of belay, the technique of moving in crampons on ice and snow, work in bundles, moving along the railing rope, self-retention techniques in case of a fall. Under favorable conditions, we will make an exit under the Delaunay Pass (3400 m). Overnight in tents.

Day 6
Tomsk parking - per. Delaunay - trans. Big Berel saddle (BBS)

From this day the ascent to Belukha (4509 m) begins. In full climbing equipment, early in the morning we leave under the Delaunay pass. On the railing ropes (fixed by the guide) we will climb to the pass (about 300 m of snow-ice slope with a steepness of 35-45 degrees). Then we move in bundles along the glacier. We rise to the BBS pass. We set up base camp. Dinner. Hang up. We are waiting for an early exit to the assault.

Day 7
assault on the peak of Eastern Belukha (4509 m)

We move out early in the morning. Along the route chosen by the guides, we continue moving up to the summit (4509 m). Under favorable conditions, we will linger at the top for a photo shoot. From the top there is a stunning panoramic view. Descent along the ascent path. In case of good weather and normal state of health in the group, we will return to the Tomsk sites.

Day 8
Tomsk sites - Ak-Kem glacier - Ak-Kem lake

On a familiar route we will go down to Ak-Kemsky lake. In the evening we have a fire and a festive dinner.

Day 9
Reserve day (radial exit to the Yarlu valley)

The Yarlu Gorge (“Edelweiss Valley”) is famous not only for its unusual landscape, but also for its original combination and variety of colors. During the day, the slopes of the valley are painted in light blue colors, at sunset the surrounding mountains acquire soft pink-purple hues. Many esotericists and mediums claim that the strongest energy places are located here. The followers of Roerich's teachings (artist-philosopher) built a whole town of stones around a monolithic stone block located in the center of the gorge that has grown into the ground, which they call the "Stone of Wisdom" ("Stone-Master"). Transition 7-8 km.

Day 10
Reserve day (radial exit to the valley of the Seven Lakes)

The valley of the seven lakes is the so-called hanging valley under the Ak-Oyuk peak (3670 m), on which a large number of small picturesque lakes and waterfalls are concentrated. Seven different shades that are formed from the rocks that make up the bottom, which are different in each lake. The valley offers a magnificent view of the Belukha mountain range. Transition 6-7 km.

Day 11
lake Ak-Kem - camp "Three birches" - pass Kuzuyak - village Tyungur

We will make the transition, along the already known path, to the parking lot "Three Birches". Further on the cross-country transport (GAZ 66), through the Kuzuyak pass, we will reach the village of Tyungur. Bath. Festive dinner. We are accommodated at the base in houses (or on the territory of the base in tents). Crossing 20 km.

Day 12
The village of Tungur - lane. Seminsky - Barnaul

Moving to Barnaul. On the way, we will be able to buy souvenirs, gifts for relatives and friends, collections from Altai herbs, pine nuts and, of course, high-mountain honey. Arrival in Barnaul in the evening. Check-in at the hotel (booked and paid by yourself).

1. SHOE

Boots (sneakers) - trekking for mountain hiking
. climbing boots
. sneakers (sneakers, boots) - changeable shoes
. slippers (flip-flops) - removable shoes for moving around the camp
. shoe covers (gaiters) - protection from snow

2. CLOTHING

Waterproof and windproof jacket and pants
. Warm jacket (puff)
. Warm pants
. Warm sweater
. Thermal underwear set
. Light thermal underwear set
. T-shirts (2-3 pieces)
. Woolen socks, fleece
. Thin socks (4-5 pairs)
. Knitted hat
. Cap (buff, bandana)
. Work gloves, mittens (warm gloves)

3. EQUIPMENT

Backpack 80 - 100 liters
. Tent 2-seater
. Trekking poles (optional)
. Sleeping bag (comfort 0 -10) С
. Rug under the sleeping bag (karemat)
. Flashlight (headlamp, with spare batteries)
. Sunglasses, sunscreen, chapstick
. Personal first aid kit (band-aid required)
. Personal hygiene products: toothbrush, paste, soap, washcloth
. Towel
. Camping utensils (bowl, mug, spoon, knife)
. Seat (podpopnik)
. Flask (thermos) under water
. Rain cape (raincoat)

4. PERSONAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT

Alcove
. lanyard
. belay and descender device ("eight")
. jumar
. carabiner (5 pieces)
. helmet
. ice ax
. crampon

5. GROUP EQUIPMENT - provided by the organizers

Awning
. first aid kit
. Campfire accessories
. Gas-burners
. Gas
. Tents*
. Ropes, drills, quickdraws, etc.

* - provided as needed

Terms of participation and booking of the tour

In order to take part in the tour, you must send an application, after confirmation by the organizers of your participation, pay 10,000 rubles. Making an advance payment indicates your acceptance of the terms. Cancellations less than 40 days in advance will not be refunded.

Included in cost

Transfer Barnaul - with. Tungur - Barnaul
. Drop-off on off-road vehicles
. Loading on horseback
. 3 meals a day on the route
. Group equipment
. Instructor Services
. Organizational costs and fees
. First aid kit
. Accommodation at the base in Tungur
. Bath in Tungur
. Medical insurance

Not included in the price (paid by yourself)

Travel from the place of residence to Barnaul
. Rental of personal equipment
. Meals at roadside cafes on the first (breakfast, lunch) and last (lunch, dinner) day of travel
. Alcoholic drinks
. Souvenirs
. Individual snack

Important information

1. The region is a border area. Documents from foreign citizens must be submitted at least two months before the start of the trip, and Russian citizens at least one month before. It has to do with the issuance of a pass.

2. Good physical fitness is required, mountain hiking and (or) climbing experience is desirable.

3. The walking movement of the group is provided for the entire route, with the exception of crossing the village of Tyungur - "parking lot Three birches" on the 2nd day and "parking lot Three birches" - the village of Tyungur on the 11th day of the trip.

4. All participants equally participate:
- in cooking
- in doing household chores (setting up tents, preparing firewood, washing dishes, etc.).

5. Products and equipment are divided equally among all members of the group.

6. In the mountains, weather conditions may change, and as a result, a change in the hiking program. The decision to change the route is made by the guide.

7. All participants are obliged to take care of group equipment and gear.

8. Participants are obliged to comply with all the requirements, instructions and recommendations of instructors (guides) on the route, this is due to the specifics of observing safety in the mountains.

9. Participants MUST be vaccinated against tick-borne encephalitis.

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At the end of May 2013, information was received from the Ural Alpine Club - during the training camp in Altai, the border guards were categorically Climbing Belukha is prohibited according to the classical route through the Delaunay Pass and BBS (Big Berel Saddle).

The border guards were placed on the barrels of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and now everyone is forbidden to climb the Akkem glacier. "Tomsk camps" are now included in the five-kilometer forbidden zone and we are not allowed to go to the Akkemsky glacier. Now there will be a border cordon here in the summer! All 5 days, border guards followed us everywhere. Every day we reported where we were going to go and if we climbed to the top, they followed us through binoculars. A checkpoint was set up above the chapel.

Here is more information from TCB participants: “ Preparation for the expedition always began with the issuance of a border pass. It was enough to send the data of 5-6 participants and the pass was issued without problems. By phone, we found out the number of the pass and at the control post, which was located in front of Ust-Koksa, we added the participants who joined later. This was the end of the test, we calmly climbed Belukha

Since this year, the regime of the border zone has changed - now you do not need to issue a pass to travel through Ust-Koksa and you can safely be without a pass on Lake Akkem. If earlier we left our passports at the Vysotnik base, and took a copy of the passport with us, now we need to carry our passport with us. A squad of border guards can check you both on the trail and on the pass.

In the Ust-Koksy border detachment, the commander was replaced, who now does not issue border passes to anyone in the 5-kilometer zone at all. And for violation of the participants face fines of 2000 rubles. up to 5,000 rubles, and the head faces a fine of up to 30,000 rubles. or an article of the Criminal Code (Criminal Code).”

If you try to understand the situation, it turns out the following.

Until now, passes have been issued to the five-kilometer zone, while in the application it was enough to indicate only the valleys (Akkem, Mensu), without specifying the planned route. Climbing Belukha in the application for a pass, of course, no one mentioned. The border guards did not actually control the upper reaches of the valleys, passes were checked below. At the same time, a pass was required simply to enter the area, even if you did not plan to enter the five-kilometer zone.

The first bell rang last year - the group that climbed Belukha was detained on the way back: “ they detained the whole group, confiscated the camera, threw off the photographs and practically forced one of the participants to write in an explanatory note that the group was on Belukha, intimidating them with responsibility for giving false testimony. As a result, now an administrative case has been opened against the head of the group and he faces a fine. Charge under Article 18.1 of the Code of Administrative Offenses.«

Since this year, probably after the order, or after the replacement of the head of the border detachment, the situation has changed. Passes to the five-kilometer zone are issued, however, the border guards began to control the upper reaches of the valleys (there is information that in the summer the post will be at the Tomsk camps), so they will be able to stop attempts to climb the Delaunay Pass “on the vine”.

How is the border between Russia and Kazakhstan in the Belukha region

To understand the situation, we look at the document "".

The state border between the Republic of Kazakhstan and the Russian Federation (hereinafter referred to as the border), described below, is marked with a solid red line on the Map of the state border between the Republic of Kazakhstan and the Russian Federation at a scale of 1:100,000 (hereinafter referred to as the Map). All distances given in this Description are measured from this Map to the nearest 0.1 km.

From point 1408, the boundary goes in a general north-north-east direction along the crest of the nameless ridge through heights with marks: 2019.0; 2513.1; 2601.1; 2610.2; 2964.3; 3262.2 and 3191.4 over the course of 26.4 km to point 1409, located on Mt. Beluga whale in the center of the geodetic point with a mark of 4499.6. ( Note. - this is a ridge approaching Belukha from the south, in which there are TKT and Katyn-bash passes, Razdelny Peak)
From point 1409, the border goes in a general eastern direction along the ridge of the Katunsky ridge through heights with marks: 3851.0 ( Note. - Peak of Heroic Korea); 3972.4; 3217.0 and 3186.3 for 15.7 km to point 1410, located 8.5 km southwest of the geodetic point with a mark of 3558.1.

The border of the Russian Federation and Kazakhstan in the Belukha region - a fragment of the map 1 cm: 5 km.

Thus, herself Beluga whale is on the border, A part of the classic route to Belukha through the Delaunay Pass(starting from the Big Berel saddle pass) passes through the territory of Kazakhstan. As they say, comments are superfluous. Recall that according to the law, border crossing is possible only at special points.

Climbing routes to Belukha.

However, on the "classic" through the Delaunay pass, the light did not converge like a wedge. Moreover, recently this route has been increasingly turning into a typical commercial route - with horse riding, fixed (on melting ice screws) railings to the Delaunay Pass and mountain climbers seeing cats and jumar for the first time.

Let's see what it offers us.

Routes to Belukha. Green - for the territory of the Russian Federation, red - for the territory of Kazakhstan, yellow - for the border. A fragment of a map by Vadim Lyapin was used.

There are several easy routes (9, 9a, 10, 11) from the southeast - these are actually variants of the so-called classics. These routes are on the territory of Kazakhstan, respectively, you need to approach them also from the Kazakh territory, along the White Berel valley(see topographic map above). Further - ascent to the Big Berelskoye Saddle pass aka BBS (3A) from the south: a small icefall and a half-kilometer snow-ice slope turning into a couloir. The BBS is usually climbed from the north, from the side of the Delaunay Pass. Ascent to the top of Belukha - along one of the routes: from the TKT pass through the Razdelny peak, through the Katyn-Bash pass (this is a downhill route if there is no avalanche danger) or through the Berelsky peak.

Directly from the Akkem glacier there are several difficult routes (including the famous "Bottle" - route No. 13 and the Abalakov route through Delaunay Peak No. 12) - these options are clearly not for the masses.

However, there are two more routes from the south, from Russian territory. The classic route from the Katun valley along the Gebler glacier (No. 8) is the route along which the first ascent of Belukha was made in 1914. Even 10 years ago, it was a very popular commercial route, and it was mainly Kazakh guides that drove along it. The main difficulty of the route is the passage of an icefall on the Gebler glacier (one of the tongues of the Katunsky glacier). Having reached the upper plateau, you can climb both East and West Belukha (route No. 16). In recent years, the icefall has changed and the difficulty of its passage has increased.

And route No. 17 along the Black Glacier through the Western Plateau to Western Belukha. Also, the main difficulty is the passage of the icefall of the Cherny glacier, we have no information about its current state.

In addition, there is another route that was not included in the classifier - through the peak of the 20th anniversary of October, it is also the Crown of Altai. There is an unclassified (approximately corresponds to the complexity of pass 3A) option of climbing to this peak along the Western ridge from the Mushtu-Ayry glacier, the valley of the river. Kucherla. Then - a simple descent to the Western Plateau, from where you can climb the Western Belukha along route 2B, or make a “Chinese hike” to the Eastern Peak through one of the passes in the ridge extending north from the Western Belukha.

Rules for visiting the border zone of Russia.

And a little more about the rules for visiting the border zone. Do not forget that the top of the Eastern Belukha is located on the border. Here are the current rules for visiting the border zone of the Russian Federation:

1.7.10. Persons located within the five-kilometer strip of terrain, on the islands, as well as to the boundary of engineering structures in cases where it is located outside the five-kilometer strip of terrain, prohibited:
a) be in a hundred-meter strip of terrain:

adjacent to the state border on land (with the exception of the lands of settlements adjacent to the state border), - around the clock;
adjacent to the Russian banks of border rivers, lakes and other water bodies where the border regime is established - with the onset of the dark time of the day (astronomical, from sunset to sunrise);
———————————
With the exception of:
persons traveling in transit through the border zone, including when leaving the Russian Federation or entering the Russian Federation, on the routes of international rail, road traffic or in other places determined by international treaties of the Russian Federation or decisions of the Government of the Russian Federation;
persons who own, use and (or) dispose of land plots or residential premises located in a hundred-meter strip of terrain;
citizens and organizations that have permits for economic, commercial and other activities, including hunting, keeping and grazing livestock, holding mass socio-political, cultural and other events within a five-kilometer strip of terrain, on the islands or to the boundary of engineering structures in cases where it is located outside the five-kilometer strip of terrain.

According to the current rules, climbing Belukha (Eastern Peak) is possible either “not reaching a hundred meters to the top” (this practice exists in some areas in the Caucasus, where access to the peaks of the GKH with the mentioned wording is allowed), or if the event (for example, climbing) succeeds file as " mass socio-political, cultural and other event within a five-kilometer strip of terrain". Climbing Western Belukha fits into the current rules for visiting the border zone.

The company Lenalpturs (Vysotnik tourist center), one of the operators of commercial mountaineering and tourism in Altai, tried during a live broadcast with the President of the Russian Federation V.V. Putin decided to ask the question: “Is it possible to climb Belukha without violating the rules established by the local border department of the FSB of Russia in the Altai Republic?” As a result, a reply was received from the Department of International Cooperation of the Federal Agency for Tourism, which refers to the already invalid order of the FSB of Russia dated June 16, 2006 No. 282 (recall that in October 2012 order No. 515 was adopted, canceling the previous ones).

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