New land to read online, kolas yakub. New land (in Belarusian)

And meridians 51°30` and 69°0` east longitude from Greenwich. This land belongs to the Arkhangelsk region. Undoubtedly, it is ranked by scientists among the islands of the mainland.

The two main islands are separated by a narrow, winding Strait Matochkin Shar. Of a number of small islands, the largest is Mezhdusharsky Island. Novaya Zemlya serves as the western boundary. From the south, it is washed by the waters of the Kara Gate Strait, which separates it from the island. From the west and northwest it is washed by the Murmansk and Arctic Oceans. Within these limits, the two islands form an arc, slightly curved and bulging towards the west. Since the northern part of Novaya Zemlya has not yet been surveyed, and even the position of its northern extremity cannot yet be finally established, the total length and area cannot yet be precisely given. Its length is about 1000 km. The greatest width is not more than 130 km. The area is approximately 80,025 square kilometers. Of this number, the southern island accounts for 35,988 square kilometers, and the northern one 44,037 square kilometers. Mezhdusharsky - 282 square kilometers. All the rest are about 290 square kilometers.

The length of the coastline of Novaya Zemlya is about 4400 kilometers. The southernmost point is Cape Kusov nos, located on the island of Kusova Zemlya, separated from Novaya Zemlya by the Nikolsky Shar Strait. From this point, the ocean coast goes to the west, and the sea coast to the east. The ocean coast is characterized by a large indentation of the coast, forming here a huge number of bays, peninsulas and islands. The southernmost part of the coast is indented by smaller bays. The first significant bay is the Sakhanikha Bay (between 55 - 56 ° east longitude). One of the large Novaya Zemlya lip Sakhanikha flows into the strait. Further to the west is the Chernaya Bay strait, which extends far into the island for 30 kilometers. The western and north-western direction of the coast is preserved up to Cape Cherny, starting from here, the coast turns directly to the north, and then to the north-west. It forms a vast bay between Capes Cherny and Yuzhny Goose. It has indented shores. Here is located the largest of the skeletons of Novaya Zemlya - Mezhdsharsky. It is separated from the coast of Novaya Zemlya by the Kostin Shar strait, into which one of the most significant rivers of Novaya Zemlya, the Nekhvatov, flows. The length of the river is 80 kilometers. To the north of Mezhdushary Island there are two large bays: Rogachev and Belushya Bay.

Starting from Cape South Goose Nose, the coastline runs almost along the meridian, without forming any significant bays until Cape North Goose Nose. This part of the coast, 100 kilometers long, is the westernmost part of Novaya Zemlya. It is called Goose Land. Farther north, between Cape Goose Nose and Razor Nose, is Moller Bay, which in turn is indented by many coastal depressions, which form good moorings for ships, together with places lying near the islands. Here, in the bay of Malyye Karmakul, there has been a camp for a long time, where several families of Samoyeds live in winter and summer. In the north, Moller Bay ends with a deep-lying Pukhov Bay, into the top of which the Pukhovaya River flows. Further flows the river Britvinskaya. To the north of Cape Britvin there are two large bays: the southern one - the Bezymyannaya Bay and the northern one - the Mushroom Bay, separated by a high bay from Pervousmochennaya Mountain. Further to the entrance to the Matochkin ball, the coast is flat and rocky. The entrance to the Matochkin ball presents some difficulty, since one can easily mistake for it the Silver Bay lying a little to the north. However, signs have already been placed to facilitate entry into this bay.

Following the western shore further north, we meet Silver Bay, surrounded by high mountains. Next are the lips of Mityushikha and Volchikha. They are located in a deep recess between the shore of Novaya Zemlya and Cape Sukhoi Nos. From the Dry Nose to another prominent place - the Admiralty Peninsula - the coast of Novaya Zemlya is again indented with bays. The largest of them, starting from the south, is Krestovaya Bay with several islands. Two bays of Sulmenev enter here - northern and southern - and Mashigin Bay. There are many bays from the Admiralty Peninsula to the Gorbovy Islands. There are several islands here: Pankratiev, Wilhelm, Krestovy and others.

Further, the coast gradually deviates to the east - to Cape Nassau. The eastern coast does not have as many deep bays and protruding peninsulas as the western coast. Starting from the south of Kusov Nose, the coast turns to the north. Here is the extreme southeastern part of Novaya Zemlya, Cape Menshikov. From here, the coast of Novaya Zemlya gradually recedes to the west, almost without bays, to Abrosimov Bay, which lies slightly south of 72 ° north latitude. The Abrosimova River flows into it. From the Gulf of Abrosimov, the coast of Novaya Zemlya takes the direction of the north and north-east. Here it becomes more indented up to the very Matochkin ball. From here, to the north, the coastline becomes more indented and forms in places quite significant bays, the largest of them: Chekina, Neznaniy, Medvezhiy. To the north of which lies the Krasheninnikov Peninsula and the Pakhtusov Islands (74°25` north latitude). Further, Pakhtusov discovered Cape Dalniy, lying slightly south of 75 ° north latitude. From where to Cape Middendorf the coast is almost unknown. Behind it to the north lies Ice Harbor Bay, where the Dutchman Barents wintered in 1598. Further, the coast of Novaya Zemlya rises straight along the northern meridian to Cape Zhelanie. Novaya Zemlya was first discovered by the Novgorodians, probably in the 11th century. But the first written data about it are found in the edition of Hakluyt: "The principal navigations, Voyages and Discoveries of the English Nation" (London, 1859). Here is described the first journey of the English, under the command of Willoughby, east of the North Cape, in search of a northeast passage into

Paema, which has become a hell of a hell of a gallows of Belarusian literature, has grown up in astroza. Antosya knows nothing about the skin of a Belarusian schoolboy, and the famous friend “My dear ones, how dear you are to me” can practice love of Belarus.

How to create adzin with national symbols, once with karespandentam Sputnik Alesya Sharshnyovay uspamіnaў dyrektar’s deputy of the National Library of Belarus Ales Susha.

"Valadarka" like a krynitsa nathnennya

"New Land" Yakub Kolas pachynaў writing near Minsk and the dachshund died there. And eight foreign kropaks on the way were welded for 12 bastards - the menavita was so much spattered, as if the work was finished - it was shmat.

Пісаць Канстанцін Міцкевіч пачаў у 1911 годзе, седзячы ў турме за ўдзел у нелегальным з"ездзе настаўнікаў Мінскай губерніі. Яе арганізатары выступалі за агульную сярэднюю адукацыю і выкладанне на беларускай мове, за што і былі арыштаваныя. Пішчалаўскі замак на Нямізе, больш вядомы як Валадарка , become months of inspiration for another contributor to the Belarusian literary language.

"Pastoring the wars on your own uspamins in 1947, Kolas uzgadvaў, that, sedzyachy ў astroze, great sumavaў on your own land and ўzgadvaў moments of your dzyatsіnstva", - Alexander Susha's pavedamiў.

For three bastards, the light was lulled by a sluggish ring of razdzela paems, yakіh, darechy, it was thrice. Some times they were friends with "Nasha Niva".

Lepshaya book to the world and opera

Aўtabіyagrafіchny creat in 1923 was the first to scold the Belarusian kaaperatsiynaya vydavetstva "Savetskaya Belarus" - dzarzhaўnaya and the most violent for the hour.

© Sputnik Alesya Sharshneva

Issued paems "New Land" by Yakub Kolas

"KOLAS CASA, STO PADZEI ў Paema adhesis and 1890-1900s, ale-like Padzei Apisye Paaliyi Krychi Pozniag Poznyaga. - Tlumachyts Alexander Susha.

Praz nekatori hour z "yalyaetstsa yashche hellishly issued - the hell of Belarusian dzyarzhanaga issuance. The book was often issued, and over the masterful afarmlenny worked the dainty creators of hours. For example, the Finnish master of Aleksantera Ahola-Valo, yak stagodja.

The creativity of Kolas and the master Georgiy Paplauskag inspired. Yon zrabіў tsely tsykl malyunkaў, for yakіya at the Leiptsyg exhibition, it was given out atrymala to the people as "The best book of the world."

At this hour paema atrymala and musical arrangement. In 1980, Ales Petrashkevich wrote a libret, and the national opera "New Land" appeared. the theme of this clock was rarely set.

Encyclopedia for aliens

It is not for nothing that Paema borrows gallon months in the Belarusian literature. "New Land" - the first violent lira-epic work, written in Belarusian, under the patronage of Alexander Susha.

Taghachasnye chytachy immediately adopted the song as if it were a folk song: they sounded me to memory and read with ease the casualties of the khatnih gassy.

“Atsenki paemy, and once issued, were great lords, and not only from the side of the readers and prodstavnіkoў of Belarusian culture, but also to hell with foreign literature of the knower,” said the expert.

The reviewers highly acclaimed the masterful work of art and the christian pasyl and ahrystsli the poem "Encyclopedia of the life of the Belarusian clergy of the late XIX - a patch of the XX century". Menavita getae paraўnanny zastaetstsa infernal from the most papular and tsyaper.

Vyadomy pismennik and gramadski dzeyach Ales Adamovich at the pile of scientific practice "Belarusian Vershavany Raman" asked a hypothetical test: if we could scantact to some people with aliens, then what would be the best way for the Magistrates of Belarus? "The New Land" by Yakub Kolas, because you are all right with us," - a Navukovian on his pile test.

At the same time, it is possible to get hell of a badge of issued issued by Belarusians not only in any country. For example, the National Library of Belarus presented the works of the Belarusian songwriter on their own site.

Admyslov's virtual project can provide not only scans of original first publications, but also first publications, and sherags of analytical texts, supported by supra-councils of libraries.

Map of the islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago.

Novaya Zemlya is an island archipelago located almost at the junction of the Barents, Kara and Pechora seas of the Arctic Ocean, about 50 kilometers north of Vaigach Island by the Kara Gate Strait. It is generally accepted that the islands of the archipelago got their common name "Novaya Zemlya" from Novgorod merchants and explorers, who considered the lands they saw across the strait to be new.

The Novaya Zemlya archipelago consists of the two largest islands, Southern and Northern, separated by a narrow strait Matochkin Shar, as well as many small islands and rocks located nearby. Among other smaller islands and island groups, the Mezhdusharska Islands (the third largest in the archipelago), Bolshoi Oransky, Petukhovsky, Pynina, Pastukhov and Gorbovy Islands are distinguished.

The total area of ​​the islands of the archipelago exceeds 83 thousand square kilometers.

The Novaya Zemlya archipelago belongs to the territory of the Russian Federation and is administratively included in the Arkhangelsk region in the status of a territorial municipality.

View of the Severny Island from the aircraft.

Story.

In ancient times, the islands of Novaya Zemlya were inhabited by representatives of unknown tribes, which belong to the Ust-Polui culture. The reasons that led to the decline of this tribe are not known. Scientists argue that the climate on Novaya Zemlya over the past 1000-1200 years has become much more severe than it was before.

It is believed that the Novaya Zemlya archipelago, which was empty and depopulated by the 10th century, was discovered in the period of the 12th-13th centuries by Novgorod merchants and explorers, who, having reached the Yugorsky Peninsula, saw new lands far beyond Vaygach Island. This name subsequently stuck to the islands of the archipelago.

In the summer of 1553, the Englishman Hugh Willoughby, who led an expedition to discover the northern routes to India, was the first European to see the islands of the archipelago.

According to the records of Hugh Willoughby, the Dutch geographer and cartographer Gerard Mercator in 1595 published a map on which Novaya Zemlya was plotted as a peninsula.

The Dutch expedition of Willem Barents in 1596 rounded the Novaya Zemlya archipelago from the north, and also wintered in the Ice Harbor of the North Island.

The Frenchman Pierre-Martin de la Martiniere visited Novaya Zemlya with Danish merchants in 1653 and found local residents of the Samoyed tribe on the coast of the South Island, who arrived on the island in search of a fur-bearing animal.

Cape Desire (Severny Island).

The Russian Tsar Peter I had plans to build a fort on Novaya Zemlya to mark the Russian presence in these lands.

In the period 1768-1769, the first Russian explorer and traveler Fyodor Rozmyslov visited Novaya Zemlya.

In the 19th century, Russia officially announced territorial claims to the islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago and began to forcibly populate them with Nenets and Pomors.

In 1910, the village of Olginsky was founded on Severny Island, which at that time became the northernmost settlement in the Russian Empire.

On September 17, 1954, a Soviet nuclear test site was created on the islands of Novaya Zemlya. Its center was located in Belushya Guba, and it included three more sites in different parts of the archipelago.

In 1961, the most powerful explosion of a 58-megaton hydrogen bomb in the history of mankind was carried out at the Novaya Zemlya test site.

At present, the nuclear test site on the Novaya Zemlya archipelago is the only operating nuclear test site in Russia.

View of Mount Kruzenshtern.

Origin and geography of the island.

The Novaya Zemlya archipelago is quite impressive in area, so its geographical coordinates are usually determined by the approximate geographical center: 74 ° 00′ N. sh. 56°00′ E d.

The islands of the archipelago stretch in a wide arc 120-140 kilometers wide from southwest to northeast for about 925 kilometers. The northernmost point of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago is Vostochny Island as part of the Greater Orange Islands, the southernmost point is the Pynina Islands in the Petukhovsky archipelago, the westernmost point is the Bezymyanny Cape of the Gusinaya Zemlya Peninsula on Yuzhny Island, and the easternmost point is Cape Flissingsky on Severny Island, which is the easternmost point of Europe.

The coastline of the islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago is quite winding and forms many bays and fjords that go deep into the land. The largest bays are considered to be on the western coast - Mityushikha Bay, Krestovaya Bay, Mashigin Bay, Glazov, Borzov, Inostrantseva, Russian Harbor and Nordenskiöld Bays, on the east - Rusanova, Oga, Medvezhiy, Neznaniy and Schubert.

The relief of the islands of the archipelago is mountainous, and the shores are rocky and mostly impregnable. Towards the central part of the islands, the height of the mountains increases. The highest point of the archipelago is a nameless mountain on Severny Island, 15 kilometers south of the Nordenskiöld Bay (sometimes called Kruzenshtern Mountain), 1547 meters above sea level. Most of the North Island is covered with glaciers, which, descending to the coast from the mountains, can even form small icebergs.

On the islands of the South and North in the mountainous regions, many small rivers originate, flowing into the Kara and Barents Seas. Among the lakes, it is worth noting Lake Goltsovoye, located in the southern part of the Severny Island, and Gusinoye, located in the west of the South Island.

By their origin, the islands of the archipelago are classified as mainland islands. Most likely, they were formed during the movement of the continents in a period remote from us by 26 million years, and are the same age as the Ural Mountains, the continuation of the system of which they are. There is a hypothesis that the islands (at least Yuzhny Island) were a peninsula until about the middle of the 16th century (originally it was designated as such on the maps of that time), and then, when the seabed subsided in the Kara Gate Strait, it became an island. Opponents of this theory argue that the islands are part of a powerful ancient geological platform, and the likelihood of such cataclysms in the area is negligible.

The geological structure of the islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago consists mainly of basalts and granites. Of the minerals, there are large deposits of manganese and iron ores, in addition to them there are small deposits of tin, silver and lead, as well as rare earth metals.

Lake Gusinoe (Southern Island).

Climate.

The climate on the islands of Novaya Zemlya is severe, it should be classified by type as arctic. Winter here is long and quite cold, with strong gusty winds, the speed of which sometimes exceeds 40-50 meters per second. In winter, blizzards and snowfalls are also frequent. Frosts during this period can reach -40 ° C. In summer, the air temperature never rises above +7 degrees.

View of the village of Belushya Guba from the aircraft.

Population.

After the creation of the Soviet nuclear test site on Novaya Zemlya, the indigenous population, who had settled here since the time of the Russian Empire, was taken to the continent. Military and technical personnel settled in the deserted villages, which ensured the vital activity of the test site facilities. Currently, only two settlements function on Yuzhny Island - Belushya Guba and Rogachevo, there is no permanent population on Severny Island and other islands of the archipelago.

The total population of the archipelago currently does not exceed two and a half thousand people. These are mainly meteorologists, military and technical personnel of military facilities.

Administratively, Novaya Zemlya, as a closed territorial municipality, is assigned to the administration of the Arkhangelsk region of the Russian Federation.

Residential buildings in the village of Belushya Guba.

Flora and fauna.

The ecosystem of the islands of Novaya Zemlya is classified as a biome characteristic of the Arctic deserts (the northern part of Severny Island) and the Arctic tundra (Southern Island).

Under these conditions, only mosses and lichens survive well from plants on the islands. In addition to them, especially in the southern regions of the archipelago, arctic herbaceous annual herbs also grow, most of which are classified as creeping species. Among them, naturalists in these places distinguish creeping willow (Salix polaris), saxifrage opposite-leaved (Saxifraga oppositifolia), as well as mountain lichen. On the South Island, there are also quite frequent dwarf birches and low grasses. Mushrooms are found in the river valleys and the lakeside, among which mushrooms and milk mushrooms stand out for their quantity.

In the lakes and rivers of the islands, fish are found, among which the vast majority of arctic char prevails.

The fauna of the islands is represented by such mammals as arctic fox, lemming and reindeer. In winter, there are always a lot of polar bears on the southern coast of the South Island. Of the marine mammals on the coast of the islands, harp seals, seals, sea hares and walruses arrange their rookeries. Whales enter the coastal waters and even the inland bays of the islands.

The bird world on the islands is represented by guillemots, puffins and gulls, which form here perhaps the largest bird colonies in Russia. Among the non-sea birds nesting on the islands is the white partridge.

Typical landscape of the Novaya Zemlya islands.

Tourism.

The islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago continue to be closed for visiting by a large number of people. The presence of the nuclear test site mothballed here and other military facilities of the Russian army make tourism to these places almost impossible. Visiting the islands of the archipelago is carried out exclusively with special permission from the Russian authorities with the strictest observance of secrecy. The entry of scientists and naturalists to the islands also remains practically impossible at the moment, which causes a lot of complaints about this from the world community. Environmental organizations are seriously concerned about the environmental situation on the islands of the archipelago, which became much more complicated during the period of nuclear testing. On this occasion, UNESCO tried to create a special commission on environmental problems in Novaya Zemlya, but the decision was categorically blocked by the Russian side.

South coast of South Island.

The island archipelago Novaya Zemlya is located on the border of the Kara, Barents and Pechora seas, which belong to the Arctic Ocean. The Kara Gate Strait separates Novaya Zemlya from Vaigach Island by about fifty kilometers. It is believed that the first explorers and Novgorod merchants called the islands of the archipelago by such a common name. Most likely, they believed that the lands they saw across the strait were new. The Novaya Zemlya archipelago consists of the two largest islands, North and South, they are separated by the narrow strait Matochkin Shar. How do they look?

In addition, there are small rocks and small islands nearby. Other islands and island groups include: Big Oransky, Gorbovye, Pastukhov, Pynina and Mezhdsharsky Islands. By the way, the latter is the third in the archipelago in terms of its area. The islands of the archipelago are spread over an area of ​​more than 83 thousand square kilometers. The territory of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago belongs to the Russian Federation. Administratively, it is part of the Arkhangelsk region, as a territorial municipality. Visit beautiful.

History of Novaya Zemlya

The Englishman Hugh Willoughby, in 1553, led an expedition that was aimed at opening routes through the north to India. He became the first European to see the islands of the archipelago. Gerard Mercator - Dutch cartographer and geographer, published a map in 1595 from Hugh's notes. On it, Novaya Zemlya appeared as a peninsula. In 1596, the expedition of Willem Barents circled the islands of Novaya Zemlya from the north and spent the winter on the North Island. In 1653, the Frenchman Pierre-Martin de la Martiniere, together with Danish merchants, visited Novaya Zemlya. They met representatives of the Samoyed tribe, who were local residents, on the coast of the South Island.

Emperor Peter I planned to build a fort on Novaya Zemlya to mark the Russian presence in the archipelago. In 1768-69, Fyodor Rozmyslov, the first traveler and Russian explorer on the islands of Novaya Zemlya, arrived here. Two centuries ago, the Russian Empire officially announced that the islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago belonged to it territorially. Then the forced settlement of the islands by Pomors and Nenets began. The village of Olginsky was founded on Severny Island in 1910, at that time it became the northernmost inhabited place in the Russian Empire.

In 1954, a Soviet nuclear test site was founded on these islands, the center of which was Belushya Guba. In addition, work in this area was carried out at three more sites in the archipelago. Unfortunately, in 1961, the most powerful explosion in the world occurred at this island test site. A 58 megaton hydrogen bomb exploded. To date, the nuclear test site at Novaya Zemlya remains the only operating nuclear test site in Russia. Also, the Novaya Zemlya archipelago has a rich history and interesting landscapes.

Origin of the island

The area of ​​the Novaya Zemlya archipelago is quite impressive. The length of the islands of the archipelago is 925 kilometers, and the width reaches 120-140 kilometers. Vostochny Island is the northernmost zone of Novaya Zemlya, it belongs to the Great Orange Islands. The Pynina Islands are the southernmost point; they are part of the Petukhovsky archipelago. Cape Nameless is the western side, it is located on Yuzhny Island, the Gusinaya Zemlya Peninsula. Cape Flissingsky is the easternmost point on Severny Island, it is also called the easternmost point in Europe.

The coasts of the islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago are distinguished by a sinuous line. Many fjords and bays are formed here, they are perfectly connected to the land. The bays on the western coast are considered the largest, among them: Krestovaya Bay, Mityushikha Bay, Glazov Bay, Mashigin Bay, Inostrantsev, Borzov, Nordenskiöld and Russian Harbor. And in the east there are lips: Oga, Rusanova, Schubert, Neznaniy and Bear. The islands of the archipelago have a mountainous relief, mostly rocky and impregnable coasts. The height of the mountains increases towards the center of the islands. On Severny Island there is a nameless mountain, which is considered the highest point of the archipelago. A significant part of this island is covered with glaciers. Closer to the coast, they form small icebergs.

Many small rivers originate in the mountainous regions of the islands: North and South. These rivers flow into the Barents and Kara Seas. Notable lakes include Lake Goltsovoye, which is located in the south of Severny Island. And in the west of the South Island is Gusinoye Lake. Experts classify the islands of the archipelago by their origin as mainland. Most likely, they were formed during the movement of the continents, they are called the same age as the Ural Mountains. There is a hypothesis that the South Island was a peninsula somewhere before the 16th century. Therefore, earlier on the maps it was designated in this way. When the seabed began to subside, it became an island.

Others argue that the islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago were part of an ancient geological platform. Basically, the islands of the archipelago consist of granites and basalts, such is its geological structure. The discovered minerals include large deposits of iron and manganese ores. In addition to them, deposits of lead, silver, tin and rare earth metals were found.

A harsh climate reigns on the territory of these islands, experts classify it as arctic. Winter days are long enough and cold. At this time, strong gusty winds are typical. In winter, snowfalls and blizzards often fall, the temperature can drop to -40 degrees. Summer is relatively cold, the temperature rises above +7 degrees. Therefore, the climate of the islands is very cold, here you will not wait for warm sunshine. We recommend that you bring warm clothes with you.

Features of the islands of Novaya Zemlya

When a Soviet nuclear test site was created on the territory of the archipelago, the indigenous population, who had lived here since the era of the Russian Empire, was taken to the continent. The settlements were empty, they were occupied by technical and military personnel. They began to ensure the life of the landfill facilities. To date, there are only two settlements on Yuzhny Island - these are Rogachevo and Belushya Guba. But on the other islands of Novaya Zemlya there are no permanent settlements. The total number of people living in the lands of the archipelago is no more than 2500 people. Basically, these are technical personnel, military and meteorologists.

The island ecosystem is assigned to the biomes that are inherent in the Arctic deserts. This applies to the north of the North and South Islands. The conditions for plants are not the easiest here, so lichens and mosses grow. In addition to them, arctic herbaceous annual herbs are found in the south of the archipelago, a significant part of them are classified as creeping species. Naturalists pay attention to creeping willow, saxifrage opposite-leaved and mountain lichen. On the South Island you can see low grasses and dwarf birches. Island mushrooms include: milk mushrooms and mushrooms. They are found in the lakeside and river valleys. Fish are found in island reservoirs, mainly arctic char.

The fauna is rather modest. Mammals such as the lemming, arctic fox and reindeer live here. In winter, polar bears live on the south coast. Marine mammals include: harp seals, walruses, sea hares and seals. Whales can often be seen in inland bays and coastal waters. The islands were chosen by various representatives of the bird world, these are: gulls, puffins and guillemots. They formed the largest bird colonies in Russia. Also on the islands there is a white partridge.

To date, the islands of Novaya Zemlya remain closed to a large number of tourists and travelers. Tourism is not developed in these places, because there is a nuclear test site and other military facilities. To visit the islands of the archipelago, you must obtain special permission from the Russian authorities, and you must also maintain the strictest secrecy. Naturalists and scientists are not allowed to enter here, so there is discontent among the world community. Environmental organizations are concerned about the environmental situation on Novaya Zemlya, because nuclear tests were carried out here. Despite the fact that the islands of the Novaya Zemlya archipelago remain one of the closed territories, the world community continues to show interest in relation to them. So far, no one predicts the exact time of changes in the tourism sector of the islands of Novaya Zemlya.

The time of the origin of the name Novaya Zemlya is not exactly known. Perhaps it was formed as a tracing-paper from the Nenets Yedei-Ya "Novaya Zemlya". If so, then the name could have arisen during the very first visits to the islands by Russians in the 11th-12th centuries. The use of the name Novaya Zemlya at the end of the 15th century is recorded by foreign sources.

Pomors also used the name Matka, the meaning of which remains unclear. Often it is understood as "nurse, rich land."

And the land there is really rich, but not in plants, but in animals, which were hunted by hunters. Here, for example, as the artist A. Borisov wrote about the riches of the Arctic at the end of the 18th century, having visited Yugorsky Shar and Vaigach:

“Wow, how good it would be to live here in the regions rich in crafts! In our places (Vologda province), look how a peasant works all year round, day after day, and only barely, with all his modesty, can feed himself and his family. Not here! Here, sometimes one week is enough to provide for oneself for a whole year, if the merchants did not exploit the Samoyeds in such a way, if the Samoyeds were at least somewhat able to preserve and dispose of this rich property ... "

Based on the Pomeranian uterus (compass), the name is associated with the need to use a compass for sailing to Novaya Zemlya. But, as V. I. Nemirovich-Danchenko wrote, “Svenske, in his description of Novaya Zemlya, says that the name of the Matochkin Shar strait comes from the word - matochka (small compass). This is not true: the Matochkin ball is called matochkin, unlike other small Novaya Zemlya balls, since it crosses the entire Uterus, that is, the hardened land of this archipelago.

In Finnish, Karelian, Vepsian matka means “way, road”, in Estonian matk “journey, wandering”. The term is widely represented in the toponymy of the North (cf. Matkoma, Matkozero, Irdomatka, etc.), it was mastered by the Pomors, and, perhaps, the name Matka is associated with it.

Novaya Zemlya is located on the border of two seas. In the west it is washed by the Barents Sea, and in the east by the Kara Sea.

The archipelago consists of two large islands and many smaller ones. In general, we can say that Novaya Zemlya is two islands: South and North, separated by a narrow strait Matochkin Shar.

The distance from the northernmost point of Novaya Zemlya (Cape Zhelaniya) to the North Pole is only about one and a half thousand kilometers.

Cape Flissingsky of the North Island is the easternmost point of Europe.

Novaya Zemlya belongs to the Arkhangelsk region, as well as another Arctic archipelago adjacent to it, Franz Josef Land. That is, the inhabitants of the Arkhangelsk region, having visited Novaya Zemlya, in fact, will not even leave their subject, despite the fact that from Arkhangelsk to Novaya Zemlya in a straight line is about 900 kilometers, almost the same as to Moscow, Estonia or Norway.

The Barents Sea, which had been traversed by Russian coast-dwellers for several centuries before, was visited in 1594, 1595 and 1596 by expeditions led by the Dutch navigator Willem Barents and, although he was not even the first foreign traveler to visit Novaya Zemlya, the sea in 1853 was named after him. This name has been preserved to this day, despite the fact that in Russia this sea in the old days was called the Northern, Siver, Moscow, Russian, Arctic, Pechora and most often Murmansk.

Something about the geology and climate of the archipelago

Novaya Zemlya in the west is washed by the relatively warm Barents Sea (compared to the Kara Sea), and due to this, the weather there can be quite warm, and even, oddly enough, sometimes even warmer than on the coast. The weather forecast for Novaya Zemlya now (in Belushya Guba), as well as for comparison on the coast (in Amderma):

Very interesting and remarkable is the so-called "Novaya Zemlya bora" - a strong cold gusty local wind, reaching up to 35-40 m/s, and sometimes 40-55 m/s! Such winds near the coast often reach the strength of a hurricane and weaken with distance from the coast.

The word Bora (bora, Βορέας, boreal) is translated as a cold north wind.

Bora occurs when a stream of cold air encounters a hill on its way; having overcome the obstacle, the bora with great force falls on the coast. The vertical dimensions of the bur are several hundred meters. Affects, as a rule, small areas where low mountains directly border the sea.

Novaya Zemlya bora is due to the presence of a mountain range stretched from south to north along the island. Therefore, it is celebrated on the western and eastern coasts of the South Island. The characteristic features of the "bora" on the west coast is a strong gusty and very cold wind, northeast or southeast directions. On the east coast - winds of the western or north-western direction.

The highest frequency of Novaya Zemlya bora is observed in November - April with a duration of 10 days or more. During bora, all visible air is filled with thick snow and resembles smoking smoke. Visibility in these cases often reaches its complete absence - 0 meters. Such storms are dangerous for people and equipment, and require foresight and caution from residents when moving in case of emergency.

The Novaya Zemlya Range affects not only the direction, but also the speed of the wind crossing it. The mountain range contributes to an increase in wind speed on the leeward side. With an east wind, air accumulates on the windward side, which, when crossing the ridge, leads to air collapses, accompanied by a strong gusty wind, the speed of which reaches 35-40 m/s, and sometimes 40-45 m/s (in the area of ​​the Severny village up to 45-55 m/s).

Novaya Zemlya is covered with "thorns" in many places. If I'm not mistaken, this is slate and phyllite (from the Greek phýllon - leaf) - a metamorphic rock, which in structure and composition is transitional between clay and mica schist. In general, almost everywhere in the south of NZ where we visited, the land is like this. That is why here the paws of the running dogs were constantly injured.

Previously, when Europeans had boots with leather soles, they constantly risked tearing their shoes. There is a story on this topic, told by Stepan Pisakhov in his diary: “In the early days, I was going to go away from the camp. Malanya saw, swayed, hurried, caught up. - Where are you going? - To Chum-mountain. Malanya looked at my feet - I was wearing boots - How are you going back? Are you going to roll yourself sideways? - Malanya explained that the shoes would soon break on sharp stones. - I'll bring you pima. Waited.

Malanya brought new seal pima with sea hare soles. - Dress up. In these pims, it is good to walk on pebbles, and you can walk on water. How much do pimas cost? - One and a half rubles. It seemed cheap to me. Surprise resulted in a question: - Both? Malanya laughed a long laugh, even sat down on the ground. Waving her hands, she swayed. And through laughter she said - No, one pim! You will wear one, I will wear one pim. You step foot and I step foot. So let's go. Malanya laughed and told an old Nenets tale about people with one leg who can only walk with their arms around each other - They live there loving each other. There is no malice there. They don’t cheat there, - finished Malanya and fell silent, thoughtful, stared into the distance of the told fairy tale. Malania was silent for a long time. The dogs have calmed down, curled up in balls, sleeping. Only the ears of dogs flinch at every new sound.

Modern life on Novaya Zemlya

First of all, many people associate Novaya Zemlya with a nuclear test site and testing of the most powerful hydrogen bomb in the history of mankind - the 58-megaton Tsar Bomba. Therefore, there is a widespread myth that after nuclear tests on Novaya Zemlya it is impossible to live because of radiation. In fact, everything, to put it mildly, is not at all like that.

On Novaya Zemlya, there is a town for the military - Belushya Guba and Rogachevo, as well as the village of Severny (without a permanent population). In Rogachevo there is a military airfield - Amderma-2.

There is also a base for underground testing, mining and construction and installation works. On Novaya Zemlya, the Pavlovskoye, Severnoye and Perevalnoye ore fields with deposits of polymetallic ores were discovered. The Pavlovskoye field is so far the only field on Novaya Zemlya for which balance reserves have been approved and which is planned to be developed.

2149 people live in Belushi Guba, 457 people live in Rogachevo. Of these, military personnel - 1694 people; civilians - 603 people; children - 302 people. Currently, personnel also live and serve in the village of Severny, at the Malye Karmakuly weather station, at the heliports of Pankovaya Zemlya, Chirakino.

On Novaya Zemlya there is the House of Officers, a soldier's club, the Arktika sports complex, a secondary school, a Bunochka kindergarten, five canteens, and a military hospital. There is also a grocery store "Pole", a department store "Metelitsa", a vegetable store "Spolohi", a cafe "Fregat", a children's cafe "Skazka", a store "Sever". The names are just mi-mi-mi :)

Novaya Zemlya is considered a separate municipality with the status of an urban district. The administrative center is the village of Belushya Guba. Novaya Zemlya is ZATO (closed administrative-territorial entity). This means that you need a pass to enter the city district.

The site of the municipal formation "Novaya Zemlya" - http://nov-zemlya.ru.

Until the early 1990s. the very existence of settlements on Novaya Zemlya was a state secret. The postal address of the village of Belushya Guba was "Arkhangelsk-55", the village of Rogachevo and "points" located in the south - "Arkhangelsk-56". The postal address of the "points" located in the north is "Krasnoyarsk Territory, Dikson Island-2". Now this information is declassified.

The Malye Karmakuly meteorological station also operates on Novaya Zemlya. And in the north of Novaya Zemlya (Cape Zhelaniya) there is a stronghold of the Russian Arctic National Park, where its employees live in the summer.

How to get to Novaya Zemlya

Regular planes fly to Novaya Zemlya. Since November 5, 2015, Aviastar Petersburg has been operating passenger and cargo flights on the route Arkhangelsk (Talagi) - Amderma-2 - Arkhangelsk (Talagi) on An-24 and An-26 aircraft.

For questions about purchasing tickets, booking tickets, the date and time of departure for regular civil aviation flights to Novaya Zemlya, you can contact the representatives of Aviastar Petersburg LLC on weekdays from 9.30 to 19.00.

Representative of Aviastar tel. +7 812 777 06 58, Moscow highway, 25, building 1, lit. 8 921 488 00 44. Representative in Belushya Guba tel. 8 911 597 69 08.

Also, Novaya Zemlya can be reached by sea - by boat. Personally, we went there just like that.

History of Novaya Zemlya

It is believed that Novaya Zemlya was discovered by the Russians already in the 12th-15th centuries. The first written evidence of the presence and fishing activities of Russians in the archipelago dates back to the 16th century and belongs to foreigners. Indisputable material evidence of the long stay of the Russians in the archipelago was recorded in 1594 and 1596-1597. in the diaries of De Fer - a member of the Dutch expeditions led by Willem Barents.

By the first arrival of Europeans to Novaya Zemlya, the unique spiritual and fishing traditions of the Russian Pomors had already developed here. Novaya Zemlya was visited by hunters seasonally to hunt sea animals (walruses, seals, polar bears), fur-bearing animals, birds, as well as collect eggs and fish. Hunters hunted for walrus tusks, polar fox, bear, walrus, seal and deer skins, walrus, seal, beluga and bear “fat” (blubber), omul and loaches, geese and other birds, as well as eider down.

The Pomors had fishing huts on Novaya Zemlya, but they did not dare to stay there for the winter. And not so much because of the harsh climate, but because of the terrible polar disease - scurvy.

Industrialists for the construction of huts brought wood and bricks themselves. The dwelling was heated with firewood brought with them on the ship. According to surveys conducted among industrialists in 1819, “there are no natural inhabitants; any indigenous inhabitants of Novaya Zemlya were unknown to the fishermen.

Discovery of Novaya Zemlya by foreign sailors

Due to the fact that Spain and Portugal dominated the southern sea routes, in the 16th century English sailors were forced to look for a northeastern passage to the countries of the East (in particular, to India). So they got to the New Earth.

First unsuccessful expedition:

In 1533 X. Willoughby left England and apparently reached the southern coast of Novaya Zemlya. Turning back, the two ships of the expedition were forced to spend the winter at the mouth of the Varsina River in eastern Murman. The following year, the Pomors accidentally stumbled upon these ships with the corpses of 63 English wintering participants.

The following unfinished expeditions, but without casualties:

In 1556, an English ship under the command of S. Borro reached the shores of Novaya Zemlya, where he met the crew of a Russian boat. The accumulation of ice in the Yugorsky Shar Strait forced the expedition to return to England. In 1580, the English expedition of A. Pete and C. Jackman on two ships reached Novaya Zemlya, but solid ice in the Kara Sea also forced them to sail home.

Expeditions with victims, but also goals achieved:

In 1594, 1595 and 1596, three trading sea expeditions to India and China set off from Holland by the northeast passage. One of the leaders of all three expeditions was the Dutch navigator Willem Barents. In 1594, he passed along the northwestern coast of Novaya Zemlya and reached its northern tip. Along the way, the Dutch repeatedly met material evidence of the Russians' presence in Novaya Zemlya.

On August 26, 1596, the Barents ship was wrecked off the northeastern coast of the archipelago, in Ice Harbor. The Dutch had to build a dwelling on the shore from driftwood and ship planks. During the winter, two members of the team died. On June 14, 1597, leaving the ship, the Dutch set sail in two boats from Ice Harbor. Off the northwestern coast of Novaya Zemlya, in the area of ​​Ivanov Bay, V. Barents and his servant, a little later another member of the expedition, died.

Off the southern coast of the archipelago, in the area of ​​​​the Kostin Shar Strait, the Dutch met two Russian boats and received from them rye bread and smoked birds. On boats, the surviving 12 Dutch reached Kola, where they accidentally met with the second ship of the expedition and arrived in Holland on October 30, 1597.

Subsequent expeditions:

Then, in 1608, the English navigator G. Hudson visited Novaya Zemlya (during the landing on the archipelago, he discovered a Pomor cross and the remains of a fire), in 1653 three Danish ships reached Novaya Zemlya.

Further, the Danes, the Dutch, the British visited Novaya Zemlya until 1725-1730, and on this the voyages of foreign ships to the archipelago ceased until the 19th century. The most outstanding of the expeditions were two Dutch expeditions by V. Barents. The main merit of Barents and De Fer is the compilation of the first map of the western and northern coasts of Novaya Zemlya.

Exploration of Novaya Zemlya by Russians

It all started with two unsuccessful expeditions:

In 1652, by decree of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, an expedition of Roman Neplyuev set off to Novaya Zemlya to search for silver and copper ores, precious stones and pearls. Most of the 83 participants and Neplyuev himself died during the winter south of Dolgiy Island.

In 1671, an expedition led by Ivan Neklyudov was sent to Novaya Zemlya to search for silver ore and build a wooden fortress on the archipelago. In 1672, all members of the expedition died.

Finally, relative luck:

In 1760-1761. Savva Loshkin traveled by boat from south to north along the eastern coast of Novaya Zemlya for the first time, spending two years on it. One of his winter huts, apparently, was built at the mouth of the Savina River. Loshkin rounded the northern coast and went south along the western coast.

In 1766, helmsman Yakov Chirakin sailed on the ship of the Arkhangelsk merchant A. Barmin from the Barents Sea to the Kara Strait Matochkin Shar. Upon learning of this, the Arkhangelsk governor A.E. Golovtsyn agreed with Barmin to send a ship with an expedition.

In July 1768, an expedition led by F.F. Rozmyslova set off on a three-masted kochmar to the western mouth of the Matochkin Shar strait in order to map the strait and measure its depth. The tasks of the expedition included: to go, if possible, through Matochkin Shar and the Kara Sea to the mouth of the Ob River and study the possibility of opening a route from the Kara Sea to North America. From August 15, 1768, the expedition carried out measurements and research of Matochkin Shar. In the eastern mouth of the strait - Tyulenya Bay and on Cape Drovyanoy, two huts were built, where, divided into two groups, the expedition spent the winter. During the winter, Yakov Chirakin died. Of the 14 people on the expedition, 7 died.
Returning to the western mouth of the Matochkin Shara, the expedition met a Pomeranian fishing vessel. The rotten kochmara had to be left at the mouth of the Chirakina River and returned on September 9, 1769 to Arkhangelsk on a ship of the Pomors.

Of course, the name of Rozmyslov should take one of the first places among the outstanding Russian sailors and explorers of the Arctic. He not only measured and put on the map the semi-legendary Matochkin Shar Strait for the first time. Rozmyslov gave the first description of the natural environment of the strait: the surrounding mountains, lakes, some representatives of the flora and fauna. Moreover, he carried out regular observations of the weather, fixed the time of freezing and opening of ice in the strait. Fulfilling the assignment given to him, Rozmyslov built the first winter hut in the eastern part of the Matochkin Shar strait. This winter hut was later used by industrialists and explorers of the archipelago.

In 1806, Chancellor N.P. Rumyantsev allocated funds for the search for silver ore in Novaya Zemlya. Under the leadership of the mining official V. Ludlov, in June 1807, two mining masters and eleven members of the ship's crew set off for the archipelago on the single-masted sloop "Pchela". The expedition traveled to Mezhdusharsky Island, visiting the famous Pomeranian camp of Valkovo. Studying the islands in the Costin Shar Strait, Ludlov discovered deposits of gypsum.

In 1821-1824. Lieutenant F.P. Litke led four expeditions on the military brig Novaya Zemlya. Expeditions led by Litke made an inventory of the western coast of Novaya Zemlya from the Kara Strait to Cape Nassau. Close-knit ice did not allow them to break further to the North. For the first time, a whole complex of scientific observations was carried out: meteorological, geomagnetic and astronomical.

In 1832, difficult ice conditions in the Kara Gates forced the expedition of P.K. Pakhtusov to put up a single-mast deckless large karbas “Novaya Zemlya” for wintering near the southern shores of the archipelago, in the Kamenka Bay. For the construction of housing, the remains of a Pomeranian hut and a driftwood found here were used. As soon as all the members of the expedition moved to the rebuilt winter hut, from the second decade of September they began to keep a meteorological log, entering into it every two hours the readings of the barometer, thermometer and the state of the atmosphere. With the end of winter, many-day hiking routes began to describe and survey the southern shores of the archipelago. The results of the expedition - the first map of the entire eastern coast of the South Island of the archipelago. Thanks to his subsequent expeditions, outstanding results were achieved. Pakhtusov described the southern coast of Matochkin Shara, the eastern coast of the archipelago from the Kara Gate to the Far Cape.

Then they were in 1837 on the schooner “Krotov” and a small boat “St. Elisha” expedition of the Imperial Academy of Sciences under the leadership of Academician K. Baer. Ensign A.K. Tsivodka commanded the ship.
In 1838, under the command of Ensign A.K. Tsivolka, an expedition was sent to Novaya Zemlya on the schooners Novaya Zemlya and Spitsbergen. The second schooner was commanded by Ensign S.A. Moiseev. As a result, a number of important studies were made, and well-known domestic and Western European scientists repeatedly addressed various scientific results of the Tsivolka-Moiseev expedition.

In subsequent years, the Pomors, who continued to fish on Novaya Zemlya, at the request of the famous Siberian industrialist M.K. Sidorov, landed in the places indicated by him, collected rock samples and set up application posts. In 1870, Sidorov published a project “On the benefits of a settlement on Novaya Zemlya for the development of marine and other industries”.

Commercial development of Novaya Zemlya

The history of the creation of fishing settlements on Novaya Zemlya has purely "political roots". For a long time this region was "Russian", but unfortunately there was not a single permanent settlement here. Even the first Russian settlers in the North and their descendants, the Pomors, went here to fish. But the “rustic Russians” for some reason believed that their Arctic paradise would always be inaccessible to the “nemchure”, “Germans” - foreigners (“Germans”, that is, dumb, not speaking Russian, the Pomors called all foreigners). And they were clearly wrong.

It is known that as early as the 16th century, shortly after the visit of the Dutchman Willem Barents and his associates to the region, Europe was interested in this particular “corner of the Russian Arctic”. And in confirmation of this, “in 1611, a society was formed in Amsterdam that established hunting in the seas near Spitsbergen and Novaya Zemlya,” and in 1701 the Dutch equipped up to 2,000 ships to Svalbard and Novaya Zemlya to “beat the whales”. According to the famous Siberian merchant and philanthropist M.K. Sidorov, who spent his whole life and fortune just to prove that Russia's strength was in the development of Siberia and the North, "before Peter the Great, the Dutch freely hunted whales in Russian territory."

At the end of the 18th - the first third of the 19th century, when the North Atlantic whale and fish stocks had already dried up, and the beaches and shoals of Jan Mayen and Bear, Svalbard and other islands lost their once familiar appearance - walruses and seals, polar bears, our the eternal competitors in the development of the North, the Norwegians, turned their attention to the undeveloped eastern expanses of the Barents Sea - the islands of Kolguev, Vaigach and Novaya Zemlya, the icy Kara Sea, which were still "teeming" with Arctic life. The main period of their exploitation of the Novaya Zemlya fisheries covers approximately a 60-year period - from the end of the second third of the 19th century to the end of the 1920s.

Although the Norwegian industrialists appeared in the Novaya Zemlya fisheries several centuries later than the Russian sea animal hunters and the Nenets, the presence of the Scandinavians in the region was very large-scale, and the nature of the exploitation of natural resources was predatory, poaching. In a few years, they mastered the entire area of ​​Russian crafts on the Barents Sea side of both islands of Novaya Zemlya, penetrated into the Kara Sea through Cape Zhelaniya, the Yugorsky Shar and Kara Gates straits and onto the eastern coast of the archipelago. Well-equipped and financially well-off Norwegian industrialists for sea animals, who have long hunted whales and seals in the North Atlantic and near Svalbard, skillfully used the experience of the Arkhangelsk coast-dwellers.

In voyages along the coast of the archipelago, the Norwegians relied on the navigational and perceptible signs (houris, crosses) set by the Pomors, used the old Russian camps or their remains as strongholds. These camps also served as a signal to the Norwegians that the crafts were somewhere nearby, since the Pomors usually built camps and huts near them. By the beginning of the XX century. they even organized several winter quarters in the archipelago.

A whole branch of the Norwegian economy quickly matured in Russian crafts, and small villages in the northern region of our Scandinavian neighbor, from where fishing expeditions were equipped to the Arctic, turned into prosperous cities in a matter of years, creating a good financial foundation for the entire twentieth century.

“The development by Norwegians of crafts in the Barents and Kara Seas, on Vaigach and Kolguev contributed to the development of the outlying cities of Norway. Thus, the small town of Hammerfest, one of the northernmost cities in the world in the middle of the 19th century, in 1820 had no more than 100 inhabitants. After 40 years, 1750 people lived in it. Hammerfest developed his trades on Svalbard and Novaya Zemlya, sent in 1869 27 ships with a displacement of 814 tons and 268 crew members for fishing.

Knowing about the existence in Russia of the laws of "coastal law, which prohibit foreigners from settling the shores of the islands without the permission of the government," the Norwegians quite cleverly circumvented this legal obstacle. In particular, according to the famous Arkhangelsk Pomor F.I. Voronin, who worked on Novaya Zemlya for 30 years, he knew cases when “agents of Norwegian merchants, having their relatives as colonists on the Murmansk coast, extended their plans not only to the island of Novaya Zemlya, but also to Kolguev and Vaigach.

And so, in order to somehow protect themselves from Norwegian expansion in the Russian North, in the 1870s, a plan ripened in the bowels of the Arkhangelsk provincial administration - to create settlements on Novaya Zemlya, denoting national interest in this region of the Arctic. Naturally, the good idea was supported in the capital. From St. Petersburg to Arkhangelsk comes "good" for the beginning of the colonization of the Arctic island. The beginning of the existence of the Novaya Zemlya island hunting economy should be considered the second half of the 1870s, when the first permanent settlement, the Small Karmakuly camp, was founded on the archipelago by the Arkhangelsk provincial administration with state support.

From the very beginning of the creation of settlements on the Arctic archipelago, both the state and the provincial authorities believed that the main occupation of the Nenets on Novaya Zemlya would be fishing activities. The provincial administration even developed and implemented a number of measures stimulating the involvement of the Nenets in resettlement to Novaya Zemlya and supporting their fishing activities.
In the initial period of the colonization of Novaya Zemlya, according to the royal decree, each male industrialist pioneer was entitled to 350 rubles from the state treasury as "lifting" or compensation. At the same time, the settlers were exempted from all state and zemstvo fees for 10 years, and those who wished to move back to the mainland in five years could return to their former place of residence without prior permission.

In 1892, by order of the Minister of the Interior, 10% of the gross proceeds from the sale of craft products were to be "credited to a special reserve colonization capital, and the net profit of individual colonists was to be paid into a savings bank on special personalized books." Each Samoyed hunter was entitled to a special book signed by the governor, in which "the amount belonging to the owner of the book is indicated." The reserve capital was used to help the first settlers - to bring them from the tundra to Arkhangelsk, to live there for several months, to provide them with clothes and tools for crafts, to bring them to Novaya Zemlya, to issue a gratuitous cash allowance, etc.

Settlement of Novaya Zemlya (its inhabitants)

The residence of indigenous Samoyeds on Novaya Zemlya until the 19th century, unlike Vaigach (an island located between Novaya Zemlya and the mainland), is not confirmed.

Nevertheless, when in 1653 (already after the Barents and other foreign predecessors) three Danish ships reached Novaya Zemlya, the ship's doctor of this expedition, De Lamartinier, in the description of the voyage to the archipelago, pointed to a meeting with local residents - "New Landers". Like the Samoyeds (Nenets), they worshiped the sun and wooden idols, but differed from the Samoyeds in clothing, jewelry, and face painting. Lamartinière indicates that they used boats that resembled light canoes, and that spear and arrowheads, like their other tools, were made of fish bones.

In the literature, there are also references to the attempts of Russian families to settle in the archipelago in the 16th-18th centuries. There is a legend that the Stroganov Bay, located in the southwestern part of Novaya Zemlya, is named after the Stroganov family, who fled from Novgorod during the persecution of Ivan the Terrible. Two hundred years later, in 1763, 12 people of the Paikachev family of the Old Believers settled on the coast of Chernaya Bay (the southern part of the archipelago). They were forced to flee from Kem, refusing to renounce their faith. Both families died, apparently from scurvy.

However, it is reliably known that Novaya Zemlya became inhabited only at the end of the 19th century. In 1867, the Nenets Foma Vylka with his wife Arina and children sailed to the southern coast of Novaya Zemlya on two karbashes. The Nenets accompanying them went back in the fall, while Vylka, his family and the Nenets Samdey stayed for the winter. At the end of the winter, Samdey died. Vylka became the first known permanent resident of the archipelago. He lived on Goose Land, in the Small Karmakuly and on the coast of Matochkin Shara.

In 1869 or 1870, an industrialist brought several Nenets (Samoyeds) for the winter, and they lived on Novaya Zemlya for several years. In 1872, the second Nenets family arrived in Novaya Zemlya - Pyrerka Maxim Danilovich. The Nenets proved that a person can live on Novaya Zemlya.

“In 1877, a rescue station was set up in the Malye Karmakuly camp in order to provide industrialists with a reliable shelter both for the time of fishing and in case of an unforeseen wintering, and at the same time to provide assistance to the crews of ships in case they crash near this island.
In addition, to protect the erected buildings and to engage in crafts there, five Samoyed families from the Mezen district, including 24 people, were then delivered to Novaya Zemlya and settled in the Malokarmakulsky camp; they were provided with warm clothes, shoes, guns, gunpowder, lead, food supplies and other tools for hunting and crafts.

Commanded to Novaya Zemlya to set up a rescue station, lieutenant of the corps of naval navigators Tyagin met there the same two Samoyed families, consisting of 11 people, who had been roaming around Moller Bay for eight years.

These Samoyeds were sent here by a Pechora industrialist, and were provided with good means for crafts, but they squandered them and, not risking returning to their homeland, completely got used to Novaya Zemlya. Having found themselves in complete economic dependence on one of the Pomor industrialists, who supplied them with the necessary supplies, in return for this - of course, at fabulously cheap prices - taking away their crafts, the Samoyeds asked Tyagin to include them in the Samoyed artel brought at the expense of the Water Rescue Society " . A. P. Engelhardt. Russian North: Travel notes. St. Petersburg, published by A.S. Suvorin, 1897

Expedition of E.A. Tyagin. built a rescue station in the Small Karmakuly and carried out hydrometeorological observations during the winter. Tyagin's wife gave birth to a child who became one of the first children born on Novaya Zemlya.

The families of the Nenets colonists who settled in the Small Karmakuly elected Foma Vylka as the first inhabitant of the island, the headman. He was entrusted with the care of the people-colonists, the duties of maintaining order, as well as organizing the unloading and loading of ships. In the performance of his official duties, Foma put on a white round tin badge over a patched and greasy blubber coat, which meant a foreman. After the departure of Tyatin, the entire management of the rescue station passed into the hands of Foma. He faithfully fulfilled this duty for many years.

The first known inhabitant of Novaya Zemlya - Thomas Vylka

Foma Vylka is an interesting personality. He was born on the banks of the Hungry Bay at the mouth of the Pechora River, in the poorest family. At the age of seven, left an orphan, he went to work as a farm laborer to a rich reindeer herder and worked only for the fact that he was fed.

The owner had a son who was taught to read, forced to read and write. Thomas saw it all. He asked the young owner - they were the same age - to teach him to read and write. They went further into the tundra or into the forest, where no one saw them, there they drew letters in the snow or sand, added words, read in syllables. So Foma learned Russian letters. And once, when the owner beat Foma severely, he ran away from home, taking with him the master's psalter...

Moving from pasture to pasture, where many reindeer herders gathered, Foma looked after himself a beautiful girl and decided to marry. Violating the ancient rites of matchmaking, he asked the girl if she wanted to become his wife. And only when he received her consent, he sent matchmakers. Several years have passed. Foma came to the ancient capital of the European Nenets Pustozersk for a fair. Here he was persuaded to accept Christianity, to marry his wife according to the Christian rite, and to baptize his daughter. Thomas himself had to take confession in the church. It was then that something unexpected happened. The priest asked the confessor, "Have you stolen?" Foma became agitated, upset, even wanted to run away, but finally admitted that in childhood he had taken the psalter from the owner...

The new owner, to whom Foma was hired for this job, suggested that he go to Vaigach Island at the head of the owner’s fishing artel to hunt the sea animal. So for three years Foma went on karbass across the sea to Vaigach and always brought good booty to the owner. For Thomas, the reputation of a successful hunter, a skilled pilot and a good headman of a fishing artel was strengthened. After some time, he began to ask the owner to send him with an artel to fish for sea animals on Novaya Zemlya. The owner approved this plan, assembled an artel, equipped two sailing karbas. On the way to Novaya Zemlya, they were met by a strong storm, the rudder of one karbas was torn off, Foma was washed into the sea. Miraculously, the assistant dragged him on board by the hair. One karbas turned back, the second, led by Foma Vylka, safely reached the shores of Novaya Zemlya. So Foma Vylka with his wife and daughter first came to Novaya Zemlya. A year later, their second daughter was born there.

Foma Vylka's family had to endure many hardships in Novaya Zemlya. Harsh, endlessly long winters, loneliness. Food was obtained with great difficulty, clothes and shoes were sewn from animal skins. There was not enough firewood to heat and light the tent a little, they burned blubber - the fat of a sea animal.

Once, when the family of another Nenets, Pyrerka Maxim Danilovich, was already living on the island next to the Vylka family, such an event happened. In late autumn, Norwegian sailors from a wrecked ship came to the plagues of the Nenets. Their appearance was terrible: exhausted to a pulp, in tattered clothes and shoes. Foma and Pyrerka gladly accepted them into their tents, fed them, warmed them, provided them with the best places in the tent. The wives sewed warm fur clothes and shoes for them. The Norwegians did not eat seal meat, and the Nenets had to specially go hunting in the mountains, kill wild deer there and feed the guest with fresh boiled meat. When one of the Norwegians fell ill with scurvy, Foma and Pyrerka forcibly forced him to drink the warm blood of animals and eat raw reindeer meat, rubbed his legs and body, forced him to walk, did not let him sleep much, and thus saved him from death.

In the spring, the Nenets gave the Norwegian sailors a boat, and they left for their homeland. The parting was very touching: they cried, kissed, hugged, the sailors thanked the Nenets for saving them from inevitable death. We exchanged gifts. Foma was given a pipe, and he gave them a walrus tusk.

Several years have passed since the sailors left. Once a sea steamer came to Small Karmakuly. All Nenets colonists were invited to it. The Swedish envoy read out and presented a letter of gratitude signed by the Swedish king. Then gifts began to be distributed. The first gift to Foma Vylka was a rifle and cartridges. Showed how to use it. Foma could not resist with joy and immediately smashed the head of a floating loon with a shot from his hand, thereby violating the order of the solemn ceremony ...

Exploration of Novaya Zemlya

In 1880, M.K. Sidorov, together with the shipowners Kononov, Voronov and Sudovikov, submitted a report to the Minister of the Interior on improving the situation in the Northern Territory. It proves the need for proper organization of the resettlement of Russian industrialists to Novaya Zemlya. By the summer of 1880, the armed sailing schooner “Bakan” was transferred from the Baltic to protect the northern lands of Russia. Starting from this year, regular steamboat flights from Arkhangelsk to Malye Karmakuly are being established.

In 1881, the regulation on the colonization of Novaya Zemlya was approved. From September 1, 1882 to September 3, 1883, continuous observations on meteorology and terrestrial magnetism are carried out in the Small Karmakuly under the program of the First International Polar Year.

The work of the polar station was supervised by a hydrograph, lieutenant K.P. Andreev. In late April - early May 1882, an employee of the station, doctor L.F. Grinevitsky, accompanied by the Nenets Khanets Vylka and Prokopy Vylka, made the first exploratory crossing of the Southern Island of Novaya Zemlya from Malye Karmakul to the eastern coast in 14 days (round trip).

In 1887, a new encampment was founded in the Pomorskaya Bay, Matochkin Shar Strait. Here, a member of the Russian Geographical Society K.D. Nosilov stayed for the winter, who carried out regular meteorological observations. Hieromonk father Jonah arrived in Small Karmakuly with a psalmist. Prior to this, the diocesan spiritual authorities annually sent a priest to Novaya Zemlya in the summer to officiate trebs and services in a small chapel.

In 1888, the Arkhangelsk governor, Prince N.D. Golitsyn, arrived in Novaya Zemlya. In Arkhangelsk, a wooden church was built specially for Novaya Zemlya, which the governor delivered along with the iconostasis to Malye Karmakuly. In the same year, Father Jonah made two trips. One in Matochkin Shar for the baptism of two residents. The second - to the eastern coast of the South Island, to the Kara Sea. Here he found and destroyed a Nenets wooden idol, personifying the patron god of deer hunting. Idols were discovered and destroyed by Father Jonah in other places of the South Island. Father Ion began to teach Nenets children to read and write, and their parents to pray.

On September 18, 1888, the new church was consecrated. The church was supplied with magnificent icons, valuable church utensils and bells. In 1889, in the Small Karmakuly, the Nikolo-Karelsky Monastery was established, with the permission of the Holy Synod, a monastic skete. The task of the monks included not only preaching among the Nenets, but also helping to change the prevailing way of life during the transition from nomadic to settled life. The long-term activity of Jonah's father has borne fruit. The German colonists willingly visited the temple, and their children read and sang in the church during worship.

In 1893, Russian industrialists Yakov Zapasov and Vasily Kirillov with their families moved from the mouth of the Pechora to Novaya Zemlya for permanent residence.

By 1894, the permanent population of Novaya Zemlya was 10 families of Nenets in the amount of 50 people. This year, Novaya Zemlya was visited by Arkhangelsk Governor A.P. Engelgard, who brought 8 more families, including 37 people, who expressed a desire to settle in the archipelago, on the Lomonosov steamer.

On the ship, a six-room house was delivered in disassembled form for the school and the residence of Jonah's father and the psalmist. This house was assembled in Small Karmakuly. Another house was brought to the camp in Matochkin Shar. So, in Small Karmakuly in 1894 there was a church building, a school, two houses in which the Nenets lived, a building in which a paramedic lived and a supply depot, a barn where spare building materials were stored, and in winter - a rescue boat. In Matochkin Shar there were three small houses where the Nenets lived.