The most inaccessible peak. The most dangerous mountains in the world. Switzerland. Vale. Monte Rosa mountain range
The conquest of mountain peaks is one of the ten most popular entertainment in the world. Rock climbing, mountain climbing and just hiking are an activity for lovers of nature, a healthy lifestyle.
It is also worth noting that this type of recreation is suitable for people who are strong in spirit and body. However, non-professionals should not be upset. There are many mountain peaks in the world that everyone can conquer. This list includes not only low mountains, but also world-famous giants.
Switzerland. Vale. Monte Rosa mountain range
Beginning climbers are offered three classic directions - Pollux (4,092 m), Breithorn (4,164 m) and Castor (4,228 m). The best time to climb is from June to October. All routes are marked; There are specially equipped places for lodging for the night. The basic climbing program is designed for 7 days.
Source: adrenaline.in.ua
USA. Washington. Peak Baker
The height of the mountain and concurrently an active volcano is 3285 m. However, the climbing route is simple and ideal for beginners. You can conquer Baker in just one day. The best time to climb is from May to August.
Source: Francesco Sisti
Nepal. island peak
The height of this Himalayan mountain peak is 6165 m. However, climbers who have completed basic training will be able to conquer Island Peak without much effort. To do this, you must have the skills of walking in cats, working with ropes. The best time to climb is from April to May and from October to November.
Source: Iwona Kellie
USA. California. Half Dome
- 2694 m above sea level
The object is one of the symbols of Yosemite National Park. About 50,000 people climb its summit every year. The last 150 m of the 12 km route is a special ropeway created in 1919.
Source: Jason Hsiao
Tanzania. Mount Kilimanjaro
- 5895 m above sea level
However, despite the status of the highest mountain in Africa, even a beginner is able to conquer its peak, and the routes of Mashame, Marangu and Rongai can be overcome without any preparation at all.
Source: Kyle Taylor
Russia. Stratovolcano Elbrus
- 5642 m above sea level
To conquer the top of the highest mountain in Russia is within the power of an ordinary healthy person. The best time to climb is from June to October. The basic climbing program is designed for 13 days.
Source: adrenaline.in.ua
Russia. Mount Belukha
- 4509 m above sea level
The object is considered the highest point of Gorny Altai. The best time to climb is from June to September. The classical climbing program is designed for 12 days.
Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and other famous peaks up to 7 km high, climbing which does not require climbing skills
Climbers have an informal association called the 7 Peaks Club. It includes those who managed to visit the highest mountains of each continent. Paradoxically, there are some on this list that can easily be conquered by those who have never been fond of mountaineering. In good weather, Elbrus and Kilimanjaro “let in”, as experienced climbers say, not only trained specialists, but also simply healthy and hardy ones. Mont Blanc and Olympus are also favorable to ordinary tourists - and there are only a dozen peaks around the world up to 7 kilometers high, whose names are on everyone's lips.
Peak Lenin - 7134 m
The first recorded ascent - 1928
This mountain was one of the highest in the USSR, and for five such peaks, Soviet climbers received the title "Snow Leopard". Now, when the mountain tourism industry has reached such a degree of development that a more or less trained "teapot" can be dragged with oxygen even to Everest, Lenin Peak is usually called the most accessible seven-thousander.
It is accessible, firstly, because from Osh you can drive by car almost to the very foot of the mountain, and from there to the base camp you can pick up equipment on pack horses. Secondly, the classic route through the top of Razdelnaya does not require serious technical work: by and large, it is enough to be able to walk and obey the guide. But low temperatures, rarefied air, the need to wait for the weather at high altitudes for many became the cause of failure - statistics say that the "most accessible" seven-thousander lets only one in ten.
The key to success here is in excellent physical shape, good weather and competent acclimatization. If the first depends on the climber himself, and the second does not depend on anyone, then the third is entirely in the hands of a good high-altitude guide. Therefore, in July, dozens of climbers rush to the Alai Valley, who roam from camp to camp, making training trips, storming attempts and waiting for the weather. Here you can meet those for whom this is the first seven-thousander, and those who are "pacing" here in front of the formidable Pobeda Peak. There is never a dull moment in the camps and on the route - a tan from the snow will give your face a purple hue, and the majestic landscapes of the Pamirs are beautiful from any height.
Peak Mera - 6476 m
The first recorded ascent - 1953
Lukla Airport is called the most dangerous in the world - the runway runs uphill between the houses, and above it, in the breaks of the clouds, aircraft with Yeti or Buddha Airlines inscriptions skillfully maneuver. The classic route from the Mera-La pass, although it is an ice one, does not require climbing training, and the necessary skills are developed even on acclimatization exits. It is acclimatization that becomes the decisive factor: do not believe the agent who says that you can “run” to the top from the base camp (5300 m) in one day - the chances will be 50/50 at best. To ensure success, you need to spend the night in a camp at a height of 5800 and from there advance to the assault. In this case, the peaks reach 9 out of 10 people who get a magnificent view of 5 of the 6 highest mountains on the planet: Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. From here you can also see the beautiful Ama Dablam pyramid, impregnable Baruntse and Chamlang and other no less famous peaks of the Himalayas. Although it is hardly possible to impress an experienced climber with a successful ascent to the peak of Mera, it is on this peak that you can take a great photo against the backdrop of the harsh wall of Everest.
Kilimanjaro - 5895 m
The first recorded ascent - 1889
In fact, Kilimanjaro has several peaks: the lowest - 4005 m - is an extinct Shira volcano, opposite it is the peak of 5183 m, where serious climbers climb. And the highest is the dormant Kibo volcano with a crater almost 3 km in diameter and Uhuru Peak, which everyone climbs.
There are 6 routes leading up. The most popular, easiest and most comfortable - with overnight stays in huts - is the Marangu path. The second most popular - more difficult, more picturesque, with beautiful rocks - is the path of Machame. Rongai is the only route from the north, starting from the Kenyan border: the most unpopular with people, so you can even meet elephants on the trail. Lemosho and Shira are two variations (the second one is more difficult) of the same path across the Shira plateau: jeeps are thrown to the starting point, and you can get to the finish line by two roads, depending on the weather and the well-being of the group. The Umbwe route is the shortest and most difficult: in the middle, an assault on the Barranco rock wall is implied, because of the sharp climb, it is here that most often fail. The Mweka trail is for descent only. From a height of 4800 m, lifeless lava fields and completely lunar landscapes begin, behind them - a zone of eternal snow, glorified by Hemingway. By the way, the snowy crown of Africa is melting faster every year, so every year more and more people come to look at it and touch the African snow with their own hands.
Everyone meets at the top, at the sign: "Congratulations, you are here - Uhuru Peak, 5895 m." Every day during the season, hundreds of trackers storm the mountain, but about a third return with nothing: despite the absence of technical difficulties, the height and the sharp temperature drop do their job. There is heavy traffic on the routes, you can’t get lost, however, independent ascents of Kilimanjaro are prohibited: tourists are allowed into the national park only accompanied by a local guide.
Elbrus - western peak 5642 m, eastern - 5621 m
First recorded ascent - 1829 (east peak), 1874 (west peak)
Elbrus has long disputed Mont Blanc's right to be called the highest point in Europe. They argue, of course, not about the heights, which are obvious, but about whether the Caucasus is really located in Europe. Be that as it may, this is one of the most popular routes for mountain tourists around the world. In summer, in good weather, dozens of people go upstairs, as if along a wide avenue, and speech is heard on the path in all languages up to Japanese, and somewhere in Amsterdam you can meet a peppy old cyclist in a commemorative T-shirt with the inscription Elbrus 5642.
The classic route is really not technically complicated - you can climb the cable car up to a height of 3700 m from the south, spend the night there in the Bochki shelter, and the next night drive on a snowcat (mountain caterpillar tractor) to a height of 4100 m and from there you can overcome the remaining one and a half kilometers in cats and with an ice ax, meeting one of the most beautiful sunrises in my life. The decision to climb one or another peak of an extinct volcano is made on the saddle - it depends on the weather, the well-being of the participants and the condition of the slope. With good weather and general luck, the ascent takes about 13 hours and in the evening the group is already accepting congratulations at dinner in Terskol. The guides say that any stubborn and physically healthy person can climb Elbrus. They reached the top on a motorcycle and even on a car. The main thing is to be lucky with the weather.
Ararat - 5165 m
The first recorded ascent - 1829
Bureaucratic delays are the only difficulty that awaits tourists. In the Iskhafan Hotel, where they usually stay, there is always a mess: they forgot to send permission to someone, or even wrapped up a whole group. Usually, all problems are solved in favor of visitors, and the mountain itself does not require any technical skills in the warm season: however, the Kurds who work here as guides are afraid of snow, but they hang the railings regularly and sing peppy songs. The ascent plan is usually as follows: two acclimatization climbs in two days - one of them to Small Ararat (3925 m) - and an assault on the third day. And a short hike to the very top, where eternal snows lie, should be considered as an adventure, and not as hard work. Mobile phones even work upstairs - so you can call your friends and accept congratulations. However, because of the strong wind, you won’t stay at the top for a long time - you need to quickly examine Armenia, Turkey and Iran lying below, tornadoes walking in the valley and the giant shadow of Ararat covering the earth. The question of whether Noah's Ark actually landed here remains open.
Mont Blanc - 4808 m
The first recorded ascent - 1786
August 8, 1786 can be considered the birthday of mountaineering as a pastime, and Mont Blanc is the birthplace of this fun for "strong in spirit, weak in mind." Now, passing along the classical route from Saint-Gervais, it is no longer possible to understand what kind of work this route cost the pioneers - today, in good weather, the traffic here is as dense as on the Champs Elysees.
The legend of Soviet mountaineering, Mikhail Khergiani, recalled climbing Mont Blanc in this way: “People go there - I have never seen so many! We put our hands in our pockets, ice axes under our arms and ran. They ran for five hours to the top. By the way, the total climb in 5-6 hours is very impressive - more than a kilometer, so a “walk” that is not difficult from a technical point of view requires competent acclimatization, endurance and a certain stubbornness. Also keep in mind that it is not customary for European guides to expose clients to any inconvenience: for example, if a strong wind blows on the summit ridge, but the ascent is still possible, the guide may suggest returning and waiting for milder weather. Therefore, it is better to discuss with him in advance what is more important for you - comfort or a successful ascent. Of course, such agreements do not apply to potentially dangerous episodes. Another way is no less popular - on the ski lift from Chamonix, with an overnight stay in the Cosmic hut and going to the assault at one or two in the morning. A line of headlamps in the dark moves over the peaks of Mont Blanc de Tacul and Mont Maudi to Mont Blanc itself: dawn with a panorama of the Alps ruddy in the morning sun becomes a reward for those who are ready to overcome several climbs and drops in a row. The funny thing is that at the top, where they take pictures and drink champagne, alpine jackdaws calmly soar in the air currents - and beg people for chocolate.
Beluga whale - 4506 m
The first recorded ascent - 1914
Climbing Belukha still needs to be earned - approaches to it take almost half of the time allotted for climbing. The trail first goes along the boiling mountain river and along the forested foothills, and all the difficulties begin at the moment when the snow appears. Beluga whale got its name because of the constant snow cover - even in summer, despite its not too impressive height, its top sparkles under the sun like a sugar loaf.
Before entering the ice route, climbers are instructed. Of course, the instructors lay the trail and hang the railings - tourists can only follow their instructions and pray for good weather (it usually rains in the afternoon).
The most impressive section on the classic route is the Delaunay Pass: 300 meters of ice at an angle of 45-55 degrees. They pass it in bundles and in cats, the pictures from here are quite heroic. The chances of getting into a storm on Belukha are quite high - the weather in the mountains is always unpredictable and can make even the simplest path dangerous. Therefore, on Belukha it is customary to argue that this mountain, sacred to the Altaians, lets someone in easily, and someone blocks the way with snowfall and winds.
Because of this mystical halo, Belukha attracts not only climbers, but also fans of Roerich, who started his trans-Himalayan expedition from here, as well as seekers of Shambhala and other enthusiastic people. Therefore, when planning your trip to Altai, it is worth clarifying whether, for example, the end of the world has been announced in the near future - because of the crowds of pilgrims around Belukha, chaos will reign.
Fujiyama - 3776 m
Climbing the sacred mountain for the Japanese became possible only a century and a half ago - before only pilgrims climbed here, now in the season crowds of people come to the top every day: some in shorts and slippers, and some with oxygen tanks. There are four routes - one from each of the cardinal directions; all of them are described in detail by the guide Tomoyuki Tokinawa.
The most popular route goes in a serpentine through the entire mountain from the north from the town of Kawaguchiko, from where a bus runs to station No. 5 at an altitude of 2300 m. Further to the 10th station, there is a well-maintained path with railings, steps, Coca-Cola machines, guest houses, shops and other attributes of the place most popular with tourists. In principle, thanks to the high-speed train from the capital and the bus from Kawaguchiko, the entire trip to Mount Fuji from Tokyo and back can be done in one day. But if you decide to meet the sunrise on the main mountain of the Land of the Rising Sun, then you can spend the night at the 7th or 8th station, and go to the top in the morning before dawn.
If you do not want to climb Fuji-san in the crowd, you should go to the top immediately after the official season closes. In fact, this only means closing the shops along the road and the post office at the top. In winter, climbing is also possible - but already in crampons, with ice axes and a guide. And if you climb Mount Fuji at the end of spring and are not too lazy to take a snowboard or skis with you, then you can go down to Kawaguchiko with a breeze in just half an hour.
Etna - 3340 m
The first recorded ascent is the 1st century BC. e.
The highest and most active volcano in Europe is also the oldest known to mankind - 500 years BC, Empedocles lived on the edge of its crater, who was going to build a tower here to monitor volcanic activity. The remains of some ancient Greek building on the slope of Etna were indeed discovered, and the shelter from which the hiking path to the top begins was called the "Philosopher's Tower". An SUV brings tourists to the Tower. He picks up people at the top station of the cable car that leads from the Sapienza shelter (near the town of Nicolosi, which can be reached by bus). Thus, if we subtract everything that is overcome by various vehicles from the height above sea level, it turns out that only 360 meters or so remain to walk to the top. It’s cool at the top, a cloud can descend (it’s easy to get lost in it), and the evaporation of an active volcano does its job: you can’t call this hike a health walk. It is better to go to the volcano with a guide: he knows exactly where the most beautiful views open from, where the slope has not yet cooled down after a recent eruption, which cave you can safely climb into and why the smoke does not come from the central crater, but from the neighboring one.
Olympus - 2917 m
The first recorded ascent - 1913
The abode of the gods includes many mountains of different heights - there are 46 peaks above 2000 m and 47 peaks above 1000 m. The highest are Mitikas (2917 m), Skolio (2911) and Stefani (2909 m). The classic route leads through Skala Peak (2866 m), from where you can go to Skolio or Mitikas - everyone, of course, goes to the highest point of the massif: you can see its popularity by reading a magazine hidden in a stainless steel container at the top. In good weather, you can see Thessaloniki, Halkidiki and even the islands off the Turkish coast from here. It’s cool at the top, so even if the sea was +35, you need to take a warm jacket and a raincoat with you: the weather changes rapidly, and there is more rainfall than in all of Greece (the neighboring peak of Stephani is still considered the throne of Zeus the Thunderer). In addition, you will need good trekking boots or sneakers that hold your ankle tightly: you can climb Mytikas even in beach flip-flops, but the virtues of the right shoes manifest themselves on the descent.
You won't need a guide - the routes are well marked: even where the trail actually ends and climbing begins, stones are marked where to step and which to hold on to. By the way, the E4 markers that you will see along the way are not an Olympic trail, but a trans-European track with a length of more than 10,000 km, invented by the Association of European Tramps. So, having descended from Olympus, the journey can be continued.
Sinai - 2285 m
The first recorded ascent - XIII century BC. e.
One of the most visited mountains in the world: hundreds of tourists and pilgrims climb it every day. The latter choose a steep path, representing a stone staircase with steps of different widths and heights - they say there are about 4000 of them, no one can count exactly. Since the ascent begins at night (to catch the sunrise at the top), tourists usually choose a gentle path. There are tents for recreation, where they sell hot drinks, sweets and rent blankets. And at an altitude of 2000 m, this road connects with the pilgrimage stairs. By the way, it is better to go down the stairs - in the light of day it is not difficult to go down it. Previously, there were ten "gates to heaven", each had to confess sins according to one of the commandments. Now only two gates remain. Another path passes the church of the prophet Elijah and the chapel of the Virgin - you can get inside only with an escort from the monastery of St. Catherine, which is perfectly visible from the trail. This is the oldest Christian monastery - built in 527. It is good to go into it after climbing, and if you find enough strength in yourself, then you can also climb Mount St. Catherine - it is located next door.
Vesuvius - 1281 m
First recorded ascent - unknown
The only active volcano in mainland Europe has been known since 79 AD. e., when a monstrous eruption buried Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabiae under a layer of lava and ash, and at the same time destroyed the main cone of the volcano with an explosion. Now the mountain is crowned with a ridge, and a new crater is already smoking inside it. Buses and taxis go up from the Herculaneum station. It remains to walk only a few tens of meters - this is not climbing at all, but a walk along a good, only very dusty road with railings. From above, a beautiful view of the Gulf of Naples opens, and under your feet you come across pieces of pumice stone, which everyone strives to grab as a souvenir. The last eruption, by the way, happened only half a century ago, the volcano is still active, and it is often closed to visitors: not even an eruption, but poisonous fumes can be unsafe.
If you dream of conquering the top of a serious mountain, but do not have much experience and a good level of preparation, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with our selection of mountains that are ideal for beginner climbers.
Climbing the classic alpine four-thousanders will be a real pleasure for those who are just trying their hand at rock climbing. The smooth snow-covered slopes of the Monte Rosa mountain range, which serves as a natural border between Switzerland and Italy, seem to be created in order to reach for the sky. Each of the routes for beginners, designed to climb Breithorn (4164 m), Castor (4228 m) and Pollux (4092 m), is marked and practically devoid of rock obstacles. All along the way, comfortable parking lots are spread out like umbrellas on the beaches, and stationary insurance protects against the danger threatening in difficult areas. The ascent is so easy and attractive that even the Italian Queen Margarita did not refuse it at one time. Those who want to be in the same house on the top, where she contemplated the snowy peaks, painted with soft sunlight, only need to take a basic course in mountaineering techniques and full acclimatization.
Photo: ru-travel.livejournal.com
The scenery in the west of the Sierra Nevada mountain range is so amazing that sometimes it seems like it's the scenery for a movie or computer graphics. Yosemite has long been known as a Mecca for rock climbers: the cream of the climbing community flocks to the park full of monumental granite peaks. There's something for everyone: the pros excel at slot climbing the walls of El Capitan, while less-skilled climbers turn their sights on Half Dome's monolithic ridge, Half Dome. The slopes of the valley symbol, towering 2694 meters above sea level, are dotted with dozens of routes. The path to the top of the cliff passes under the supervision of instructors and does not portend any particular difficulties. The only moment that can cause trembling in the knees is the last 150 meters of the twelve-kilometer path. In order to climb up, climbers must walk along a special rope, keeping their balance with the help of metal supports located on the sides.
Photo: naturaltopwonders.com
Belukha, Gorny Altai, Russia
Following the Tronov brothers, who made the first ascent to the highest point of Altai, located 4506 meters above sea level, eco-tourists, trekkers, and climbers rushed to Belukha. The number of travelers arriving at the foot of the mountain per year exceeds 2,000 people. Belukha is famous for its special pristine beauty: picturesque alpine meadows replace the tongues of glaciers, and rivers born among the ice form saucers of lakes and noisy streams of waterfalls. Climbing to the mountain peak attracts both professional climbers and inexperienced amateurs. While the aces hone their skills, battling the harsh winds and sheer cliffs of the almost inaccessible north side, beginners enjoy the fresh air and scenery on the much easier southern and eastern slopes. Requirements for training are minimal: only the presence of good physical shape and basic climbing skills is required. For those who are not confident in their own abilities, instructors work on the territory of the Belukha Natural Park, equipment can be rented.
Photo: petly.livejournal.com
“It comes from Zanzibar. He goes to Kilimanjaro, ”the rhyme about the good doctor Aibolit joyfully broadcast. To conquer the "Roof of Africa", reaching a height of 5895 meters, it is not at all necessary to be a professional climber. From each - according to his abilities, to each - according to his needs, the creators of the Kilimanjaro National Park decided and developed several dozen routes. If you are not yet ready to repeat the extreme path of the legendary Temple, Messner and Lecher, stop your choice on the Marangu route, passing through the most picturesque corners and equipped with comfortable parking, on the less impressive, but not so crowded Rongai, or on the straight and short, but quite spectacular Mweka and Umbre. Designed specifically for beginners, these programs do not require prior experience or difficult and potentially dangerous terrain. You will need quite a bit: exact adherence to the acclimatization schedule, a positive attitude and an irrepressible thirst for adventure.
After taking a souvenir photo at the top of one of the highest volcanoes on the planet, go to conquer the six-thousanders. An ideal opportunity to reach new heights without mastering complex technical skills and without exposing life to unnecessary risk is Imja Tse Peak, located in the Himalayas and towering at 6189 meters. Although officially Island Peak (as this mountain is commonly called) is not classified as difficult, it is considered to be the most accessible peak among such giants. Despite the fact that one cannot do without preliminary acclimatization, the climbing route will not be difficult for people who have completed basic training and know how to “walk crampons”, work with an ice ax and handle a rope. The most dangerous and exciting stages of the ascent are the passage along the glacier and the ridge, climbing the ice wall along the railing and crossing the rocky couloir. When you reach the sky, take a breath and look around: from here you can enjoy incomparable views of the gigantic peaks of Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Makalu.
Mountains beckon a person, challenge him. Some of the people accept the challenge. But not everyone comes back. Among the climbers there is also a rating of "killer mountains", which are extremely dangerous to conquer.
Annapurna
Location: Nepal. Himalayas.
Height: 8091 m.
Annapurna was the first of all 14 eight-thousanders to be conquered. It happened, however, by accident. The group of the French climber Maurice Herzog went to conquer another peak - Dhaulagiri, but after reconnaissance, they decided that it was possible to conquer another mountain. It turned out to be Annapurna, the northernmost peak of the Himalayas. The ascent took place on June 3, 1950. The conquered summit "took its own" from the French group. All members of the expedition received frostbite, Maurice Herzog had to amputate his fingers and toes throughout the descent.
The French group is still lucky. To date, one and a half hundred ascents have been made on Annapurna. In the entire history of conquering the peak, the death rate of climbers was 41%, which is extremely high. For comparison, this coefficient for Everest is only 7.4%. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that only experienced climbers go to Annapurna, while everyone who has enough money in their wallet is trying to conquer Everest.
The American extra-class climber Ed Vitus, who has conquered all 14 eight-thousanders, left Annapurna "for dessert". His impressions of this mountain are interesting: "Annapurna is one big danger, it is all covered with ice. One large piece of ice with ice growths on it. And the whole question is in which direction the next growth will deviate, forward or backward."
Location: Pakistan and China, Karakorum.
Height: 8614 m.
K2, Chogori, or Dopsang is considered the second most difficult climb on Earth, it is second only to the already mentioned Annapurna. Moreover, Chogori is also the second peak in height (after Everest), but in terms of the difficulty of conquering, it far surpasses Chomolungma.
K2 was discovered back in 1856, but almost a century later, in 1954, an Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio managed to conquer it. Interestingly, in 1902, the famous occultist and climber Aleister Crowley made an attempt to conquer the mountain, but the summit was not given to him.
As of mid-2008, 284 people have climbed to the top of this mountain, 66 have died while trying to climb. A large number of climbers died already on the way back. The death rate of this terrible peak is 25%, that is, one in four of those who tried to conquer K2 died.
In the history of climbing Chogori, the Russians left a noticeable mark. The route that our climbers managed to overcome on August 21, 2007 is considered the most difficult. The Russian group climbed the western wall of the summit, which was considered impassable until that time. In winter, no one managed to conquer K2.
Nangaparbat
Location: Pakistan, Himalayas.
Height: 8125 m.
Nanga Parbat is called the "mountain killer" and "swallowing people". It is the westernmost peak of the Himalayas. Nanga Parbat began to collect its mournful statistics from the first attempt to conquer it - in 1895, she "absorbed" the best climber of her time, Briton Albert Mummery. Since that time, according to statistics for 2011, Nanga Parbat has claimed the lives of 64 climbers. In total, 263 people were able to conquer Nanga Parbat. The death rate of this peak is almost 23%. Every fifth climber who dared to challenge the mountain died.
Pragmatic people explain the reason for such a high mortality rate as an extremely unfavorable sum of climatic factors in the region of the mountain - the arid climate at the foot causes a huge temperature difference. The weather from this is very unpredictable, and deadly avalanches are also frequent.
Recently, the "human factor" has also strengthened the unpleasant glory. In June last year, the camp of climbers, located at the foot of the mountain, was attacked by Taliban militants. As a result, 10 people died.
Nanga Parbat, however, is magnetically attractive - this mountain has the highest absolute height. Coming close to the mountain, you can see a wall 4.5 kilometers high above you.
Kanchenjunga
Location: India, Himalayas.
Height: 8586 m.
The third highest eight-thousander in the world, the easternmost of them. In 1905, the already mentioned Aleister Crowley was the first to try to conquer the mountain. Did not work out. Kangchenjunga was conquered only after 50 years. In the entire history of ascents, only 187 people have safely reached the summit. Of these, only 5 were women.
It is believed that Kanchenjunga is a female mountain, which is why she kills climbers who dare to conquer it.
The mortality rate of this peak is 22%. Contrary to the statistics, which in the case of all other killer mountains tend to decrease, with Kanchenjunga it is the other way around. Year after year, the mountain takes new lives. By the way, this mountain was wonderfully depicted by Nicholas Roerich in the painting of the same name. Google it.
Location: Switzerland, Alps.
Height: 3970 m.
The only western summit in our ranking. Despite its seemingly insignificant height, Eigar is considered one of the deadliest peaks in the world. Aigar first submitted to man on August 11, 1858. Several routes lead to the top of the mountain. The most difficult is the route on the north face of Eigar. It was passed for the first time only on July 24, 1938. The complexity of the route is in an incredibly large difference in altitude and in very unstable weather on the northern slope. During the years of ascents, the summit claimed the lives of 64 people.
The mass fascination with mountains, not as objects for painting landscapes or places for walking, began in the 19th century. In England they mastered their own mountains, in Europe they went to the Alps and the Pyrenees. This was the so-called "Golden Age of Mountaineering", when the mountains were close, not too high, and not too dangerous. But even then the first victims of mountaineering appeared. After all, the influence of height on a person has not yet been properly studied, professional clothes and shoes have not been produced, and only those who have visited the Far North knew about proper nutrition.
With the spread of mountaineering to the masses, its march across the planet began. As a result, competitive mountaineering began with a risk to life. And then the latest equipment stopped helping, but the most durable equipment, and the most high-calorie food. Under the motto "As high as possible, and as quickly as possible," climbers began to die in dozens. The names of famous climbers who ended their century in their home bed can be counted on the fingers. It remains to pay tribute to their courage and see in which mountains climbers die most often. It seems inappropriate to develop criteria for the "mortality" of mountains, so in the dangerous ten they are located almost in an arbitrary order.
1. Everest(8848 m, the 1st highest peak in the world) is at the top of the list out of respect for the title of the highest mountain on Earth and the mass character of those who want to conquer this mountain. Mass character generates mass mortality. Throughout the climbing routes, you can see the bodies of the poor, who never had a chance to descend from Everest. Now there are about 300 of them. The bodies are not evacuated - it is very expensive and troublesome.
Now dozens of people conquer Everest every day in a season, but it took more than 30 years to make the first successful ascent. The British started this story in 1922, they also finished it in 1953. The history of that expedition is well known and has been described many times. As a result of the work of a dozen climbers and 30 Sherpas, Ed Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the first conquerors of Everest on May 29.
2. Dhaulagiri I(8 167 m, 7) did not attract the attention of climbers for a long time. This mountain - the main peak of the massif of eleven more mountains with a height of 7 to 8,000 m - became the object of study and the site of expeditions only at the end of the 1950s. Only the northeast slope is available for climbing. After seven unsuccessful attempts, the international team achieved success, the strongest of which was the Austrian Kurt Dimberger.
Dimberger had recently conquered Broad Peak with Hermann Buhl. Fascinated by the famous compatriot's style, Kurt convinced his comrades to march to the summit from the camp at 7,400 m. The climbers were saved by the usually ruinous weather. After 400 m of altitude, a strong squall came up, and a group of three porters and four climbers turned back. After conferring, they set up the sixth camp at an altitude of 7,800 m. Dimberger, who had frozen his fingers during the unsuccessful assault, insisted that the rest of the expedition members also climb Dhaulagiri, which took 10 days. The conquest of Dhaulagiri became an example of the correct organization of a siege-type expedition, when the skill of climbers is reinforced by timely laying of routes, delivering cargo and setting up camps.
3. Annapurna(8091 m, 10) is the main peak of the Himalayan massif of the same name, consisting of several eight-thousanders. The mountain is very difficult to climb in technical terms - the final segment of the ascent is overcome not along the ridge, but slightly below it, that is, the risk of falling off or falling under an avalanche is extremely high. In 2104, Annapurna claimed the lives of 39 people at once. In total, according to statistics, every third climber dies on the slopes of this mountain.
The first to conquer Annapurna in 1950 were Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who became the shock pair of a well-organized French expedition. In principle, only a good organization saved the lives of both. On the final stretch of the ascent, Lachenal and Erzog went out in light boots, and Erzog also lost his mittens on the way back. Only the courage and dedication of their colleagues Gaston Rebuff and Lionel Terray, who escorted the climbers half-dead from exhaustion and frostbite from the assault camp to the base camp (with an overnight stay in an ice crack) saved Erzog and Lachenal. There was a doctor at the base camp who was able to amputate their fingers and toes on the spot.
4. Kanchenjunga(8586 m, 3), like Nanga Parbat, before the Second World War attracted the attention of mainly German climbers. They examined three walls of this mountain, and all three times were unsuccessful. And after the war, Bhutan closed its borders, and the climbers were left with one route to conquer Kanchenjunga - from the south.
The results of the survey of the wall were disappointing - there was a huge glacier in its center - therefore, in 1955, the British called their expedition reconnaissance, although it did not look like reconnaissance in terms of composition and equipment.
Kanchenjunga. The glacier is clearly visible in the center
On the mountain, climbers and Sherpas acted in much the same way as the 1953 expedition on Everest acted: reconnaissance, checking the path found, climbing or retreating depending on the result. Such preparation takes more time, but saves the strength and health of the climbers, giving them the opportunity to rest in the base camp. As a result, 25 George Bend and Joe Brown left the upper camp and covered the distance to the top. They had to alternately cut steps in the snow, then Brown climbed 6 meters up and pulled Bend on the insurance. A day later, on their way, the second assault pair: Norman Hardy and Tony Streeter.
Now, about a dozen routes have already been laid on Kanchenjunga, but none of them can be considered simple and reliable, so the martyrology of the mountain is regularly updated.
5. Chogori(8614 m, 2) as the second peak of the world has been stormed since the beginning of the twentieth century. For more than half a century, the technically difficult peak has repelled attempts by climbers to conquer itself. Only in 1954, members of the Italian expedition Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni nevertheless became the pioneers of the route to the summit, which was then called K2.
As later investigations established, Lacedelli and Compagnoni, before the assault, acted, to put it mildly, not in a comradely manner with their expedition colleague Walter Bonatti and the Pakistani porter Mahdi. When Bonatti and Mahdi, with the greatest effort, brought oxygen tanks to the upper camp, Lacedelli and Compagnoni shouted over the snowy ridge to leave the tanks and go down. With no tent, no sleeping bags, no oxygen, Bonatti and the porter expected to spend the night in the upper camp. Instead, they spent the hardest night in a snow pit on the slope (Mahdi froze all his fingers), and the assault couple reached the top in the morning and went down as heroes. Against the backdrop of honoring the conquerors as national heroes, Walter's furious accusations looked like envy, and only decades later Lacedelli admitted he was wrong and tried to apologize. Bonatti replied that the time for apologies had passed ...
After Chogori, Walter Bonatti became disillusioned with people and walked the most difficult routes only alone.
6. Nanga Parbat(8125 m, 9) even before the first conquest, it became a grave for dozens of German climbers, who stubbornly stormed it with several expeditions. Getting to the foot of the mountain was already a non-trivial task from a climbing point of view, and the conquest seemed almost impossible.
What was the surprise of the mountaineering community when in 1953 the Austrian Hermann Buhl conquered Nanga Parbat alone in almost Alpine style (almost lightly). At the same time, the upper camp was set up too far from the top - at an altitude of 6,900 m. This meant that the storming pair - Buhl and Otto Kempter, needed to gain 1,200 m of altitude to conquer Nanga Parbat. Kempter felt unwell before the assault, and Buhl at 2:30 in the morning went to the summit alone with a minimum of food and cargo. After 17 hours, he reached the goal, took a few photographs, reinforced his strength with Pervitin (in those years he was a completely legal energy drink), and turned back. The Austrian spent the night standing, and at 17:30 he returned to the upper camp, having completed one of the most outstanding ascents in the history of mountaineering.
7. Manaslu(8156 m, 8) is not a particularly difficult peak to climb. However, the locals, who chased away the climbers, interfered with conquering it for a long time - after one of the expeditions, an avalanche descended, killing about 20 and so few locals.
Japanese expeditions tried to take the mountain several times. As a result of one of them, Toshio Ivanisi, accompanied by Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu, became the first conqueror of Manaslu. In honor of this achievement, a special postage stamp was issued in Japan.
Climbers began to die on this mountain after the first ascent. They fell into cracks, fell under avalanches, froze. It is significant that the three Ukrainians climbed the mountain in alpine style (without camps), and the Pole Andrzej Bargel not only climbed Manaslu in 14 hours, but also skied off the top. And other mountain climbers did not manage to return alive with Manaslu ...
Andrzej Bargel considers Manaslu as a ski slope
8. Gasherbrum I(8080 m, 11) is rarely attacked by climbers - the peak is very hard to see because of the higher peaks surrounding it. You can climb the main peak of Gasherbrum from different sides and along different routes. Working through one of the paths to the top, an outstanding Polish athlete Artur Heiser died on Gasherbrum.
The Americans, who were the first to set foot on the summit in 1958, described the ascent as “we used to cut steps and climb rocks, but here it was only necessary to trudge through deep snow with a heavy backpack.” The first climber of this mountain is Peter Schenning. The famous Reinhold Messner first climbed Gasherbrum in alpine style with Peter Habeler, and then climbed both Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II alone in one day.
9. Makalu(8485 m, 8) is a granite rock rising on the border of China and Nepal. Success (that is, climbing to the top of at least one participant) on Makalu is only every third expedition. Yes, the good ones suffer losses. In 1997, during the victorious expedition, Russians Igor Bugachevsky and Salavat Khabibullin died. Seven years later, the Ukrainian Vladislav Terzyul, who had previously conquered Makalu, died.
The first to reach the summit were members of an expedition organized by the famous French climber Jean Franco in 1955. The French explored the northern wall ahead of time and in May all members of the group conquered Makalu. Franco managed, having taken all the necessary photographs at the top, to drop the camera, which flew down the steep slope. The euphoria from the victory was so great that Franco persuaded his comrades to lower him down on a rope, and indeed found a camera with precious shots. It is a pity that not all incidents in the mountains end so well.
Jean Franco on Makalu
10. Matterhorn(4478 m) is not one of the highest peaks in the world, but climbing this four-sided mountain is more difficult than climbing another seven-thousander. Even the first group that climbed (a slope of 40º on the Matterhorn is considered gentle) to the summit in 1865 did not return at full strength - four out of seven people died, including the guide Michel Kro, who accompanied the pioneer Eduard Whymper to the top. The surviving guides were blamed for the death of the climbers, but the court acquitted the accused. In total, more than 500 people have already died on the Matterhorn.
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