Holidays in Goa without a tour operator. Preparing for an independent trip to India in Goa. Mumbai to Delhi by train
Goa is the most mysterious and controversial beach destination. It is impossible to predict whether you will fall in love with India to unconsciousness or never return after the first trip. In relation to Goa, there will definitely not be halftones - so you have to go! We especially recommend to those tourists who are looking for new sensations and vivid impressions. Vacationing in Goa is an effective way to shake things up and even step out of your comfort zone. And that's where the magic begins, as they say.
Goa is not an island
For some reason, many believe that Goa is a paradise island in the warm ocean, almost like the Maldives. This is undoubtedly a fabulous place, but it is far from the Maldives 🙂 And here's why.
In fact, this is a state in India, which is located in the western part of the Hindustan peninsula and is washed by the Arabian Sea, which is in the northwestern part of the Indian Ocean. But the sea is easy to confuse with the ocean - you can't see the horizon, the waves don't stop, so the local waters can't be called transparent because of the suspension of sand. The conclusion follows from this - if you want to swim calmly, and not jump on the waves, choose a beach in a bay (for example, Palolem).
The state itself, compared to the rest of India, does not live in poverty. About half of the population of Goa, according to local guides, are educated and well-mannered. Although it is better not to walk in dark alleys after sunset, because in any country there is a marginal stratum.
- 1 ruble = 1.05 Indian rupees
- Flight time - 7.5 hours
- Official language - English, Hindi
- Visa - electronic authorization ($60) and through the consulate ($55)
- Wi-Fi in the cafe is free, but the signal is weak and intermittent
Which beach is better?
Geographically, Goa is divided into North, Central and South. The beach strip, almost without interruption, stretches along the entire coast for tens of kilometers.
The beaches of North Goa are party, and often very busy (the leader in the crowds are Baga and Calangute). Many locals also live in the Calangute area, so it is always noisy, fun and colorful. About 80% of Russians live in Morjim, it is very calm here, and there are almost no touts. If you move north, you will meet more hippies and the so-called "inadequate".
The beaches of South Goa are cleaner, cozier than in the northern part. There are much fewer people here, and there are many coves in which you can hide from the waves. In addition, the hotel base is more decent, the streets are cleaner, and therefore the prices are much higher. There are few Russian tourists here, and there are also no noisy parties. This area is suitable for families with children and a romantic getaway.
Photo from personal archive
The central area is Old Goa, where the locals live, life is in full swing, and you can see a lot of things. We recommend renting a bike. Read about the features of renting bikes in the blog.
What to see?
Goa has inherited many excellent architectural objects from the time of the Portuguese colonial expansion. Cathedral of St. Catherine and across the road the Basilica of Bon Jesus in Old Goa - the capital of Panaji. Fort Chapora near Vagator Beach and Fort Aguada near Sinquerim Beach and others.
Attractions are scattered throughout the state, and the bus ride in the heat and on rough roads will be tiring. Some places are better to explore on your own by taking a regular bus. For example, the wonderful waterfall Dudh Sagar, located in a tropical reserveBhagwan Mahavir,where monkeys roam freely. Together with the tour, you will be allowed to spend only an hour here, but here you will definitely want to stay longer.
Photo from personal archive
Be sure to go fishing with an excursion - you can catch beautiful local fish, fry them right there and watch a flock of dolphins from afar.
On a Saturday night, visit the market in Arpora and listen to local bands. And of course, visit the best club in Goa - Club Cabana, which is located under the open sky on several levels of a picturesque hill - the price tag for two is about 2,000 rubles, you pay only for the entrance - drinks are included. The view of Goa at night is amazing!
How to move?
If you have money, then you can safely ride a taxi - the price tag is noticeably lower than in Moscow. Almost free of charge you can ride a regular bus or train. Mopeds are very popular in North Goa, bicycles are more common in South Goa. To rent a moped, you need to show the tenant an international driving license and prove that you know how to drive a moped and drive carefully - just drive 100 meters and turn around. To be honest, they don’t like to give Russians mopeds - we have a reputation for being too reckless 🙂
What to eat?
Indian cuisine for an amateur. Basically it’s fried chicken in batter, tandoor flatbreads and again chicken, only already stewed in a thick creamy tomato sauce with a crazy mix of spices. You can try both local veal and spicy Goan sausages - but if it’s already quite exotic 🙂 However, the typical menu of any cafe on the beach is English breakfasts, American burgers, fresh seafood, chicken in different sauces, Italian pasta - in a word, very varied, to suit the tastes of any tourist.
When is the best time to go?
The tourist season in Goa lasts from October to April. And it is strictly divided into dry (October - February) and wet (March-April). In the first case, the heat is easily tolerated, a pleasant breeze blows, in the second, the sun is very active, and it becomes stuffy. If you like surfing, come here in February.
The least crowds will traditionally be at the beginning and end of the season. And from December 22 until the end of the first week of the new year in Goa, it's just pandemonium. Many tourists come from Great Britain and Germany, and there are many Catholics among the Hindus. Therefore, Catholic Christmas is celebrated here on a special scale - in a week, decorations of everything that is possible begin, which look, though clumsy, but cute.
Where to stay?
- good price
- a large number of rooms (there is someone to chat with a lonely girl)
- location (far from the beach - about 20 minutes on foot, but this is the main street where everything is - pharmacies, exchangers, and many cafes)
- beautiful swimming pool that is illuminated at night
The cheapest room turned out to be a two-room suite, 35 square meters, with a balcony, air conditioning and a TV. Dilapidated but very comfortable. Washed linen, as elsewhere in India, but you can bring your own. I was struck by the gallantry of the staff and greatly upset the attitude of some British towards the Russians. But if you don’t negative, but laugh it off, you can beautifully get out of an unpleasant situation 🙂
For the entire holiday, no crawling and sucking reptiles were found! (and I'm very, very afraid of them)
My parents stayed 10 minutes walk from me, at the Sea Breeze Inn (10 minutes walk to the sea).
Photo from personal archive
Cozy and comfortable, there are few rooms, but mostly Russians live. The territory is landscaped, free Wi-Fi, good catches in the rooms. Due to the large amount of greenery, there are a lot of mosquitoes (take a fumigator) and there is a smell of mold.
Cons of Goa
What should be remembered before the trip?
- Hindus constantly strive to touch you, even just passing by, and not at all out of bad motives (fortunately, not for indecent places, as can happen in Egypt, but for example, by the elbow).
- Indians are very polite and friendly. And many sincerely want to please you with a trinket, entertain you with interesting stories, give you compliments - it will not seem to you at all as if this is a “divorce”. But social phobes will definitely not like such contacts 🙁
- Unsanitary conditions thrive in this climate. Hindus save themselves from indigestion with the help of spicy food, from which we would feel bad even without poisoning. Therefore, take an antibacterial hand gel with you and start every morning with a prophylactic spoon of enterosorbent.
- If you are a city dweller and have never milked a cow, then their free pacing along the roads, and sometimes along the beaches, may scare you (dogs also run, but look, let's face it, “shabby”).
The story of my shame, or how to apply for a visa
As usual, it is the employees of the travel agency who get into the most stupid and unpleasant situations. And I am no exception.
I bought a tour (7 nights with breakfast in mid-December 2015 cost me about 24,000 rubles with a flight), and turned to our visa officer.
I was given a link to the Indian Consulate, where you can fill out a visa application form yourself, attach photos and scans of your passport - and in a couple of days (maximum 6-8) you will receive your visa for only $60. Here is the link. I reached the last and printed out a visa application form for the journey, and not the visa itself, and tried to board my plane with this form. When she met the astonished look of an airport employee, she began to call her colleagues at Travelata. They remotely called a representative of my tour operator to the counter, and the problem was immediately solved - they printed out my visa and handed it to me.
A stupid and unpleasant situation ended successfully 🙂
What is bad about an electronic visa - upon arrival at the Goa airport, you will have to stand in a long queue for fingerprints. This can be avoided by applying for a paper visa through the Indian Consulate. In this case, it costs less ($45), but takes longer to process.
Read more about visas.
Artistic conclusion 🙂
I am a kinesthetic, which means I perceive reality with the help of sensations. What do I personally remember in Goa? When you run in the morning for breakfast on the creaky floor of the room, you open the doors - a thick smell of curry and aromatic candles hits your nose, and you are greeted by the cries of exotic birds. You realize for a second that you woke up again in this incredible world, and now you will take a step forward and live a new day in paradise, in Goa...
Many people go on their own and for this it is not necessary to use the services of travel agents. The whole process will consist of 4 main points that you can easily complete yourself.
Indian visa
If you decide to go to Goa on your own, then the first thing you will have to take care of is an Indian visa. If you are citizens of Russia or Ukraine, then the Indian consulate now issues six-month visas, according to which you can live without a break for 6 months. Citizens of Belarus are issued Indian visas for 1 month.
To make the most of your visa, you should plan your self-guided visit to Goa at the beginning of November, when the tourist season and favorable climatic conditions begin. Until the end of April, you will be able to enjoy an excellent resort environment.
It will be necessary to fill out a visa application form in English through the website of the consulate. The consulate will need to provide copies of booked round-trip air tickets and hotel reservations. In the near future, it is planned to make it easier for tourists to obtain a visa to India and it will be possible to obtain a visa upon arrival at the airport.
To apply for a visa to India, you will need a round trip. If you buy direct flights to Goa, then this will be the most expensive option. The cheapest tickets will be to Delhi, where you will need to transfer to a local airline and fly to Goa. This way is less comfortable, but more acceptable for budget travelers. You can also buy tickets to Mumbai, where you can buy tickets to Goa. You can take a taxi from Dabolim Airport to your hotel in Goa.
Optionally in Goa for the entire planned period of residence. It will be enough to book for a couple of days to rest from the road. Then you can find a cozy house near the sea on the spot. You can also rent part of the house at a price of $ 7 per day, which is naturally cheaper than living in a hotel.
Be sure while still at home, buy yourself travel insurance for your trip to India for the duration of your trip. It costs a little, but in which case, it will cover your expenses. Especially if you are planning to rent a motorbike, you will not do without insurance. You will observe accidents in Goa with the participation of Russians every day, and only very rich people can afford to pay for treatment in Indian hospitals from their pocket. Keep in mind that standard insurance, which is issued by travel agencies for a trip to Goa, does not reimburse expenses in the event of an accident and extreme sports. When contacting the insurance company, immediately explain what kind of insurance you need and what you plan to do in Goa.
It is best to eat in Goa in beach cafes and restaurants, as they cook delicious food there, and the prices are quite reasonable. There are no supermarkets with a huge selection of food, and many do not want to cook on their own.
Getting around in Goa
The most popular form of transport in Goa is a motorbike. You can either rent it or hire a taxi driver on a moped or motorcycle. Traffic on the roads is not according to the rules, so there is a high probability for foreigners to get into an accident, especially if they do not have much driving experience.
The inexhaustible flow of tourists from the Northern Hemisphere poses a real problem, how to get to Goa. Preferably, cheaply and quickly, with an independent purchase of tickets, without the involvement of travel agencies and intermediaries.
Regular flights
Before you get to Goa on your own, you need to monitor the supply market. First of all, non-stop. Airlines that operate direct flights, even those with the status of regular flights to Goa, fly to Dabolim exclusively during the high season. Therefore, it is easiest to fly from mid-October to the end of April. At the same time, the trip will cost on average cheaper than a charter. From other cities, for example, to Goa from Rostov, regular flights do not fly.
Cheap direct flights
Regular flights, namely direct flights to Goa, depart. Services are provided by Transaero and Rossiya Airlines. Buying a ticket on average costs about $650. The number of flights is strictly fixed. The schedule includes four flights to Dabolim and back. The price is valid only when buying directly from representatives of the airline or booking plane tickets on the official websites of carriers.
Independent travel planning
Direct scheduled flights are not the only way to fly to Goa. Charters fly during the season. Flights with transfers are available throughout the year.
Buying plane tickets will be cheaper if you book in advance and act without intermediaries through official websites.
The earlier the tickets are booked and purchased, the cheaper the trip will be. A round-trip flight also saves the traveler's money.
To fly to Dabolim for the first time without incident, it is better to use the services of tour operators. At a price, this will not be cheap, but it will save time and nerves when searching for and booking a flight, settle visa problems and get the opportunity to calmly look around the area in order to return to the fairy tale on your own.
How to buy a cheap charter ticket
Charter flights to Goa in Russia are operated by Azur Air and Royal Flight. The average cost is $ 715, subject to the purchase of round-trip tickets. Last minute flights to Goa will cost up to 40% cheaper. At the same time, in December 2017 - January 2018, there were no such bonuses. With a greater degree of probability, we can say that the situation will be the same for the 2017/2018 season. New Year holidays are the time of peak prices and rush demand.
You can wait until the end of the season - April or May, then charter tickets fall in price by an average of 10-15%. However, the number of departures is proportionally falling. Therefore, you need to separately specify how much the trip costs.
Charters in Goa fly according to their schedule, operators can change it up to the complete cancellation of the flight. Then you will have to get on your own. If you arrived by charter, you must fly from Goa on the same plane. This is a separate song related to Indian laws.
With one change in the UAE
The cheapest flights to Goa are sold for flights with transfers. This brings some inconvenience to travelers, but saves money.
In the United Arab Emirates, the most popular hub cities are Abu Dhabi, Sharjah and Doha. The duration of the flight reaches 24 hours, mainly due to waiting for a connection. You can use this time to visit local sights. The price of plane tickets ranges from $630. Early booking can save up to 5%.
Through Delhi
Air India operates almost regular flights. At airports, tickets to Goa are sold as direct. At the same time, a mandatory transfer is carried out in Delhi. Even if there are some overlaps and the flight is delayed, the connecting plane of the local air service will stand and wait for passengers to Dabolim. Delhi-Goa tickets do not need to be bought. Price within $615 round trip, may vary slightly.
Through Mumbai
Most often, the airline operates flights through Mumbai with two transfers. With the first hub in Europe or Turkey. The rest fly first to Delhi. When booking flights to Goa, India, please note that connections in Mumbai can take a very long time. You may need to stop somewhere. The destination is less popular than Delhi, but the price of tickets to Goa is the same.
How to get cheaper from different countries
Due to cheapness, India has become one of the most popular holiday destinations in the modern post-Soviet space, especially Goa. Plane tickets are most in demand in winter.
From different cities of Russia
Charters depart from the largest cities in Russia. Otherwise, you have to first get to the capital, then to other hubs. There is a need to stop somewhere with a prolonged docking, and wait for a transfer.
The flight Rostov-Goa by charter flight takes 6.5 hours. With transfers, you will have to spend up to 2 days on it. The price of a ticket to Goa from Rostov-on-Don for early booking with a round-trip flight is at least $680. Flights from other cities of Russia are organized according to the same logic.
Below is a selection for some cities of the Russian Federation, as of the beginning of 2018. Destination to Goa with different airlines* from one to two transfers:
* with early booking, approximately 1–1.5 months in advance by economy class round trip.Any direction, especially Volgograd, needs to be monitored. During the high season, tour operators launch charters. Two to four flights per month. The greater the flow of passengers, the lower the price of tickets.
The most famous flight search engines update information almost on a second-to-second basis. This is due to the fact that reservations are redeemed, new ones appear or travel routes are added. Pricing information is indicative and outdated quickly.
From Kazakhstan
You can come on vacation to Goa from Kazakhstan by charter, but it will be more expensive. The average price of a flight with transfers at the beginning of 2018 is $550. Subject to the purchase of round-trip air tickets Almaty-Goa. The cheapest flights are operated by AirArabia with a stopover in Sharjah. The price is about $479.
From Ukraine
In Ukraine, a flight Kyiv-Goa will cost an average of $650. This price is offered by airlines for flights with two transfers. The first hub is traditionally in Europe or Turkey. Less common in the UAE. Then a connection is made with a local Indian flight to Mumbai.
Direct charters to Goa from Kyiv cost less - in the range of $520-580, but the schedule often changes. Departures daily, except Wednesday. To get to Goa from Odessa, you will need about $520–590. The flight schedule is the same as from Kyiv.
It will take a lot of effort to get from Kharkov to Dabolim. There are no direct tickets as of the end of the 2017/2018 season. You will have to fly with 2-3 transfers. Routes are mainly through Minsk. Even with early booking, it is impossible to get cheaper than $1150. Although the schedule is changing and new offers are constantly appearing.
Plan your time and finances. Cheap tickets do not always bring direct savings. If you have to fly for about two days with many hours of transfers at the docking ports, then the impression of the rest will be greatly spoiled.
I always wondered, especially when there was rainy autumn weather outside the window, isn't it time to succumb to the persuasion of my wife, give up everything, and wave to goa, lie down on an exotic beach. And finally, this wish was realized. I managed to organize independent vacation in Goa and it turned out to be very cost-effective. And certainly it is more interesting than buying a simple tour package.
Getting to Goa on your own
Goa is a state of India, and to visit Goa, an Indian visa is required, which my wife and I received at the airport of arrival, having previously issued it online and taking printouts with us. I booked a flight with a transfer in Abu Dhabi. The airline was having a major sale and managed to snag some very cheap tickets.
Independent rest in South and North Goa
The state of Goa can be divided into two parts. This division was formed historically, and is associated with the specifics of recreation. We spent half of our time in the south and then moved north. south goa is a respectable, quiet family vacation. Accordingly, the audience is older. There are gorgeous uncrowded beaches and good hotels.
On north it's the other way around. Here people play tricks, and life does not stop day or night. There are beaches where the density of vacationers just rolls over. And the level of service is slightly lower than in the south.
In my opinion, Goa should:
- see the beaches of North and South Goa;
- visit the capital of the state of Goa;
- go on a couple of excursions to natural attractions;
- to attend a couple of beach parties in North Goa.
I chose and booked hotels on my own, once directly, through the hotel website, and in other cases, through online services, comparing prices. The cost of living in the south is higher than in north goa. But with food, it sometimes seemed to me that it was even more expensive in the north. It should be noted that food level in goa very good, and there were no problems here. We ate lunch and dinner all day outside the hotels, sometimes on the beach and sometimes in roadside cafes. In general, the cost of meals is not high, therefore, it is hardly worth overpaying for hotel packages with inclusive meals.
Traveling on your own in Goa
In my opinion, the most acceptable for tourists modes of transport in Goa are rented scooter and taxi. We used the scooter to get around the area around the hotel or to get to places of evening and nighttime activities.
Taxis were taken to go to the capital of the state of Goa, or to visit all sorts of attractions. However, for this it is quite possible to join group excursions, if it fits into the required time frame. Independent rest does not always mean cost savings. However, in the case of goa it turned out to be not only interesting, but also economical.
Article text updated: 05/29/2018
When my wife and I first went on an independent vacation to Thailand, we fell in love with this country with all our hearts. It seemed that there was no more pleasant place on the planet: people, nature, and sights - all this struck me to the core! It seemed to me that we would come to this wonderful country again and again. Then we went to Mexico, to China - twice already, to Sri Lanka. And Thailand, everything was postponed - there are many other interesting countries. For example - alluring India. Before my second independent trip to China, I seriously considered the possibility of a trip to this country. I really wanted to visit one of the oldest cities on Earth that still exists and is inhabited by people - Varanasi (according to scientists, it is 3000 years old). We worked out a route through the mainland, but never went. The fact is that the reports of independent tourists are divided into two large parts: some travelers really like the country and they go to India many times, others are completely disappointed because of the crowds of people and dirt, unsanitary conditions. In general, Katya and I postponed our independent trip to India. And now, as it turned out, one of the longtime readers of the blog, Mikhail, who has become my online friend for a long time, has already traveled to this country 4 times and still wants to. I asked him to try to explain why he was so attracted to India. And today I bring to your attention the first report and a series of Mikhail's stories about his journey around the country.
I must say right away that our first trip to India, to a large extent, was accidental. It so happened that the vacation in 2011 fell on February, there was not a large selection of countries for recreation: South America, Thailand, Vietnam, India - this is not a complete list of countries where it is warm in February, there is a sea, and most importantly - there is something to see .
India in this list looked the most acceptable for two reasons: the cost of the tour and the duration of the flight.
I photographed a lot, with two cameras: an entry-level Canon EOS 500D DSLR equipped with a Canon EF 28-135mm f / 3.5-5.6 IS lens and a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FX100 “soap box”. Basically, I shot in manual mode, but when I couldn’t cope with the exposure, I switched to “auto” or to a mode from the list (landscape, portrait, etc.). Due to the inexperience of the photographer, the pictures turned out to be weak, for which I apologize, for the same reason the illustrations will sometimes fall out of the text.
For a Russian of my generation, interest in India rested on three pillars: tea, Indian films and Afanasy Nikitin's "Journey Beyond Three Seas" - rather a film made jointly with the Indians at Mosfilm than the text itself, and, well, perhaps - Indian motives in the works of Conan Doyle about Sherlock Holmes. We read Kipling's "Riki-tiki-tavi" at a very tender age and do not tie it geographically.
Still, there is an established stereotype about this subcontinent: filth, poverty, disease, huge crowds of people (in 2013, the population of India is 1 billion 252 million people) and a rather peculiar religion.
I will not dissemble, my knowledge is not limited to this. Simplifying and highlighting only one motive - the history of modern civilization, I imagined it as an attempt to reach India by sea or land (for example: Alexander the Great (Macedonian) in 327 BC set out on a campaign to conquer India)). All geographical discoveries of the 15th - 17th centuries, one way or another, are connected with the search for an alternative route to India (here it is enough to mention Christopher Columbus, Vasco da Gama, Fernand Magellan).
Again, very subjectively, I saw two reasons for this. In addition to the utilitarian (“countless riches” and the conquest of territories), there was another one: the search for the famous and, at the same time, the mythical Christian kingdom of priest John (this is in the Russian tradition, and in the west - Prester John). During the time of the Crusades, it was vital for Christians in Europe to know that they were not alone in the world. I will make a reservation, our famous scientist Lev Gumilyov, the author of the passionate theory of ethnogenesis, the son of two great poets of the “Silver Age” Nikolai Gumilyov and Anna Akhmatova, suggested looking for this kingdom, rather, in the Mongolian steppes, and not in India (“Ancient Rus' and the Great Steppe” ). I will not describe the history of this legend here, its development period takes 400 years, but I will refer to the Wikipedia article: https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%CF%F0%E5%F1%E2%E8%F2% E5%F0_%C8%EE%E0%ED%ED And for the most curious, I suggest reading the wonderful book by Umberto Eco "Baudolino.".
Burdened with approximately such a baggage of knowledge, I went to India.
“Theory is theory, book knowledge is one thing, and reality is another” - thinking something like this, I decided not to plunge headlong for the first time, but to start acquaintance with the simple, gradually accustoming the body to the shocking Indian reality. The choice fell on Goa, namely: South Goa, as the place least subject to extremes; in North Goa, the moral and everyday emancipation of tourists was added to the above "horrors".
My story does not claim to be comprehensive. We lived in the town of Colva (Colvá, South Goa) for only 13 days and 12 nights, went on a couple of excursions, and one was to another state, went to the nearest district on foot, and swam, swam, swam (I note that I don’t bathed). I will only paint what I have seen. Maybe, God will give, once again to visit this earth, then I will add to the story.
Since we did not visit Old Goa, we did not see the "City of Churches" inherently associated with the conquest and conquest of Goa by Europeans, the historical background will be short: the Portuguese conquered Goa in 1510, when Afonso d'Albuquerque reached the coast of Goa by sea and landed on him, becoming the first governor. Vasco da Gama became the second governor, and here he died. Missionary activity here was led by St. Francis Xavier.
Catholicism was planted with fire and sword, but St. Francis, as before, in Goa is the most revered figure, and his ashes rest here. In 1964, Indian troops occupied Goa, declared it a union territory, and in 1974, after the Carnation Revolution in Portugal, Lisbon recognized India's sovereignty over Goa. Goa became an independent state only in 1984.
Now I am writing these lines and automatically setting milestones: I was born in 1964, I was 10 years old in 1974 (I remember the Gvozdik revolution, rather, from the cartoons in the Crocodile magazine and the news of the Vremya program, about no Goa and there was no question), in 1984, while serving the last months in the army, together with the entire military unit, he was waiting for the visit of Rajiv Gandhi - he covered the snow with sand and “gutalinized” the wheels of the cannons (our unit was at the same time an exhibition of artillery weapons and, as I now understand, arms market).
For us, modern tourists and travelers, another story is much more important - this is the so-called second discovery of Goa. Since the late 60s of the last century, hippies have rushed here from all over the world, many of whom have settled here, creating their own subculture. This is where the real history of tourism in Goa begins. There is an opinion or a legend, if you will, that the first hippies hosted The Beatles under an old banyan tree on Arambol Beach (the northernmost part of Goa). I think it's a legend. In any case, there is no better place for songs from the White Album.
Seven hours of charter flight from Moscow and now - Goa, Dabolim International Airport (Goa International Airport Vasco-da-Gama (DABOLIM)). From the very first steps, it seemed that all the frightening stories about India began to come true. Dabolim Airport is more of a military base than an international hub; the only (for 2011) traffic light in Goa is located exactly at the intersection of the road to the military base and the runway. Instead of police, the airport is guarded by soldiers with automatic weapons.
We are waiting for luggage. The transport belt moved, the first suitcases. Suddenly, the lights go out throughout the airport. The submachine gunner, without moving or showing any emotions, continues to sit on the chair. Imagine our amazement! After sitting still for some time (probably hoping that the situation would resolve itself), he lazily got up, went to the shield and turned on the switch. Hooray - there is light, the tape is moving, there will be luggage!
In anticipation of the collection of all the tourists, we smoke at the bus. A tractor drives past with a trailer, on which there is a huge barrel of water and an Indian watering the road from a bucket.
Next to the bus driver, a boy is attached in the cab. It turns out that the driver only turns the steering wheel and presses the pedals, but the partner acts as an on-board computer, parking sensors and, in combination, a translator from English to Marathi or Konkani (the two most common languages in Goa). He gives his commands to the driver in a peculiar way - he whistles. Does the bus not fit between the wall of the house and another vehicle parked at the curb? Whistling! The suitcases are unloaded, the tourists have left, can I close the door? Whistling! Well, and so on.
His position is called the whistler. During my four trips across India, I have not seen Indians idly wandering around, perhaps because everyone will find work: if you don’t whistle, then drag earth in small flat basins or wave with a spade. Since we are talking about transport, I’ll add right away - cars in India are constantly buzzing. A car enters a blind turn - beep-beep, you have to pass on a narrow road - pub-beep, overtaking - beep-beep. Moreover, all maneuvers are performed without slowing down, and just oncoming cars greet each other on the road - beep-beep. City or village (it doesn't matter, Delhi, Mumbai or Colva) - everywhere, in different voices beep-beep!
I was struck by the words of the guide - a nice Ukrainian girl, as it turned out later, constantly preoccupied with where to buy another bandana:
- For me, the main thing is that you all return home! - "Here you go!" - flashed through my head and gave a chill in my back. But her next words calmed her down:
- Some people like Goa so much that they tear up their passports and try to get lost among its inhabitants.
"It's not about us." Oh, how I hastened to such a judgment! They did not want to tear up their passports, but they seriously considered the possibility of extending their stay in Goa - the closer to departure, the more. The only thing that stopped me was that my daughter, who remained in Moscow, had a birthday soon, I wanted to celebrate it together, and the charter tickets do not change.
The Bollywood Sea Queen Beach Resort is nestled among palm trees, with the ocean across the road, surrounded by rice paddies and lotus ponds. Hotel as a hotel, treshka, with a small pool. And why is it needed at all if there is an ocean nearby? Small two-story buildings with spacious rooms. In the first proposed room, nothing worked: the lights did not turn on, the air conditioner did not turn on, the water did not flow. But 5 bucks, thrust into the hand of the bellhop, decided the matter. With amazing strength in his frail body, he picked up the luggage and quickly moved us to another room, already with three beds. Everything is fine! Only now, if everyone in the hotel turned on the air conditioners at the same time, then the boiler that heats the water was cut off. I had to heat water to wash my hair with a boiler. By the way, he was in the room, as was the bucket in the bathroom.
To finish with horror stories, we need to tell you more about the "dirt" in India and "poverty". Yes, the streets of cities and, to a lesser extent, villages, are full of garbage.
The monsoon will wash everything into the sea! — that was the answer.
Wildness, you say.
A scene from the trendy intellectual series Med Men comes to mind a few years ago. The main character with his family, a picnic by the road. Before loading the children into a brand new car at the end of the picnic, dad checks the cleanliness of the children's hands, then crushes the beer can and throws it into the bushes, while the wife, having collected things, takes the edges of the bedspread on which they were sitting and shakes it off. remnants of a picnic on the grass. This is America in the 70s.
Another scene, no longer a movie. Moscow, these days, the driver throws an empty pack of cigarettes out the car window with the words: “Tajik will clean it up!”
I explain it to myself this way: Indians live in harmony with nature, a cow will pick up a banana peel, garbage and manure will rot, becoming fertilizer, the rest will be washed away by the monsoon into the ocean, but they do not take into account that progress has made modern garbage from materials that are weakly subject to decay.
Now about hygiene. We did not meet a single cafe or eatery where it would not be possible to wash our hands with soap. Having traveled a decent distance by car through several states of India, we never had to pee in the bushes or on the side of the road. Near the sights, temples or palaces there is always a clean toilet, and rarely - a paid one. Here it would be necessary to add facts from the realities of Russia for comparison, but I invite readers to look around themselves. We live in different cities, but the picture, I think, is the same everywhere.
"Poverty". Yes, there are many poor people. Near the palaces there are shacks, full of slums, many beggars and cripples. On a trip through the "Golden Triangle", our guide was the Indian Ajay Singh. He has lived in Moscow for twelve years and speaks excellent Russian. So, in his words, in India - 10% of the population are rich, like our Abramovich (suffice it to say that the hundredth floor of the Burj Khalifa belongs to the Indian billionaire B.R. Shetty), and if we translate the percentages into numbers, then this is 100 million 252 thousands of people (the population of Russia?!), 35% of the population are below the poverty line, and the remaining 55% live quite normally. Another note, begging in India is a service industry. You have a need for charity today, here you are, a beggar extends his hand. Perhaps I am confusing something, but it seems to me that this goes back to the ancient prescriptions for the life of a family man-householder in the code of Manu.
Colva. A small village, considered the tourist center of South Goa, as well as the center of a thirty-kilometer chic wide beach, with white sand crunching underfoot like snow. The distance to the airport is 24 kilometers.
There are no sights, except for a couple of Catholic churches and a humpbacked bridge across the ditch, on which everyone is photographed. There are a lot of hotels, shops, souvenir shops where you just need to bargain, cafes, sheks on the beach, the owners of which are still the custodians of the beach infrastructure (umbrellas, trestle beds).
The beaches in India are public, i.e., like ours, draws, and only now, thanks to the owners of sheks, they are somehow equipped.
Another of the attractions is the colonial-style villas, which are inhabited by the descendants of the Portuguese colonizers who settled in Goa. Some can be visited by asking for a visit for money, or just take pictures.
Reading reports about Colva, meeting mentions of a huge number of Indian tourists, and just tourists, you imagine a beach crammed with people, a sort of Indian Costa Bravo. Everything is relative. Between one island of trestle beds and another - tens of meters, or even hundreds. The beach is wide, and far from the hotels it is completely empty (four years ago, at least, it was like that).
Hindus come on weekends and crowd, mostly at the main entrance to the beach. An explanation is needed here. Indians are mentioned here solely because they like to be photographed with "whites". This is the only inconvenience, so to speak. Although, if my memory serves me right, the indigenous people of Goa have long been accustomed to Europeans and the color of their skin. Here in real India, i.e. other states, it's a little annoying. This “love” for whites is explained simply: in India, the lighter the skin, the higher the caste. If someone tells you that castes are prohibited in India, it will only be a half-truth - Hindus do not change traditions, they sincerely believe in their Gods, sacred books are codes of laws. Their epic heroes are real heroes, and the whites are arias. And a Hindu will not start any business without going to an astrologer.
By my nature, I can lie on the beach as a seal until lunch, then the soul requires impressions. We have a tradition: after 15:00 - a walk around the neighborhood, wherever we are. I am very curious about other people's way of life. And yet, having arrived in India, I want to see the real country, with its temples (and in Goa the population mostly professes Catholicism), national costumes (here people walk in European clothes), and in the end - ride elephants. From the list offered by the guide, we chose two excursions, both taking almost the whole day.
The first is to the Dudhsagar Falls (ದೂಧ್ ಸಾಗರ್) waterfall, whose name literally translates as the Ocean of Milk. I think it would not be an exaggeration to say that all reservoirs in India are sacred (or almost all), and each reservoir has its own legend.
According to local legend, a certain princess loved to swim in the lake, after which she poured milk into it, for ritual purposes, from a golden jug prepared in advance. Once, after bathing, being naked, she noticed that a young man was watching her from the bushes. In order to somehow hide their nakedness, they poured milk from a jug in front of them. The flowing white jets gave rise to the waterfall. The waterfall is located in the Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary and Mollem National Park, from Kolva to it - about 60 km. The distance is short, but we drove for a very long time, because the whole road was clogged with dump trucks transporting land, an endless traffic jam - the Moscow Ring Road at rush hour. The land in India is red, contains a lot of iron, the Chinese buy it. A driver for a walker, and a digger for loading one car, receive one dollar. Loaded by hand.
This is the first waterfall I have ever seen in my life. Water falls from a height of 300 meters, and the length of the stream is about 600 meters. At the foot of Dudhsagar is a lake in which a bashful princess bathed. According to another legend, you must definitely plunge - you will wash away all sins. The tour did not end there: more - riding elephants, bathing them in the river and planting spices.
To be honest, all this is very tiring at one time. Fortunately, they poured it on the plantations ... Wonderful local cashew moonshine.
Actually, we still had to visit a real Hindu temple. The girl-guide, already mentioned by me, claimed that trousers are not required, everything is in her grasp. Future travelers in India - you will not be allowed into any temple in breeches! It is possible that men will be offered to bare their torso during some of them, but the legs should be covered. And without shoes, in this case, you can have socks. I go barefoot.
More about guides (not local). As a rule, they draw all their knowledge from the Internet, where one author misrepresented another. Traveling with Indians in India, I observed that sometimes our guides and guides listen with surprise to the words of "white" colleagues: "Where do they get it"? This is especially true of the history of India.
Monkeys, elephants and a waterfall - good. But, nevertheless, I would like to visit a real Hindu temple. We go on an excursion to Murdeshwar (Murudeshwar) and Gokarna (Gokarna, ಗೋಕರ್ಣ). Another state (Karnataka) is almost 200 km one way.
I won’t write much, exactly a year ago we lived in Gokarna for two weeks, on the sacred days of Mahashivaratri (Shiva’s holiday), specially rolled up in Murdeshwar, this topic deserves a separate article, and last year’s photos are better quality.
However, Murdeshwar or Murudeshwara is a small fishing village with a huge temple complex dedicated to Shiva, one of the three main gods of Hinduism.
This complex is brand new. It is believed that the first temple here was built in 1542, but the Portuguese, colonizing India, left no stone unturned from the Hindu shrines on the west coast. In 2002 the complex was reconstructed. Now - this place is famous for the eighty-meter (or seventy-meter, data differ) gopuram gate tower and the world's tallest statue of Shiva (37.5 m). There is a museum in the basement of the statue - a huge panorama of wax figures, clearly telling how the king of Lanka, Ravana, wanted to have a Shiva-lingam, which gives immortality and incredible power, but received in return Shiva's wife Parvati, who in fact turned out to be not Parvati, after all , was rewarded by Shiva with a lingam, but put it on the ground and turned to stone. Here, according to legend, one of the five fragments of the Shiva Lingam is kept.
Gokarna is the place where Shiva revealed himself to the world, coming out of the ear of the cow Prithivi. Gokarna translated into Russian means "cow's ear". Almost 25,000 people live here, most of them are Brahmins. The city is very ancient, mentioned in the Vedas. The main attraction is the Mahabaleshwar lingam; according to legend, it is 1.5 million years old. Every day, crowds of pilgrims and sightseers gather in the town, and what is happening here on the holiday of Shiva is incomprehensible to the mind!
Om beach is located five kilometers from the city, the outline of the coast exactly conveys the shape of this sacred sign. Last year, we again climbed to the observation deck of this beach, but, as they say, “you can’t enter the same water twice” - the panorama was hidden by trees.
This concludes the first part of the story of my discovery of India.
Note from me, Sergey Lakhardov
I would like to thank Mikhail for taking the time to write a report on his trip to India. Yes, there are comments on the quality of the photos (it was shot, nevertheless, in JPEG format, and not in RAW) and on the composition of the pictures (but these were his first steps in photography), but the text is incredibly beautiful! With his speech, it seems to me, Misha completely overshadowed the small flaws in the photos. I ask everyone who has read this story to give a short review - if you liked the report, and if you didn't. It's always nice to hear what people think of your work.
The map shows: 1) the location of the Dabolim airport; 2) Colva Beach, referred to in this report; 3) Bhagwan Mahavir reserve and the famous Dudhsagar waterfall; 4) Palolem Beach - in October 2015, Mikhail went to Goa on his own and rested here; 5) direction for a trip to Gokarna.
If you are going to arrange a beach holiday in India, I recommend reading the discussions on the links listed before this scheme. Well, I invite you to read the second part of the report, in which Mikhail shares his feedback on how he spent his next vacation in Kerala, talks about excursions.