Ernest Hemingway's big fish

“Now I don't care that I missed it,” David said. - And I do not care that I did not set a record. But I thought that I wanted to put it. It is very good that she is whole and I am whole. We are not enemies."

E. Hemingway. "Islands in the Ocean"

At sea, there were no family troubles, no financial difficulties, no hassle with publishers, but there was only Hemingway - a courageous fighter, testing himself in combat with predatory fish, and a writer immersed in thoughts.

Hemingway was attracted to water as a boy. He grew up in Oak Nark, a cozy suburb of Chicago, and usually spent his summers on the lakes of the Upper Michigan Peninsula. At the age of 19 he became a military man - the driver of an ambulance. Was injured. Returned home to become a reporter for the Kansas City Star and travel overseas again as a foreign correspondent. The famous Parisian years came, a great success. By the age of 30, Hemingway was ready to return home. At this time, the idol of his boyish years - the author of Westerns Zane Gray became interested in fishing off the Florida Reef and began to describe in vivid colors pictures of the fight with tarpan or marlin. Hemingway was shocked by the name, and in 1928 booked a ticket to Florida.

Some years passed - and Gray himself invited him to collaborate on a documentary about sport fishing. And Hemingway allowed himself some pleasure to decline this offer (later he said that Gray envied him as a fisherman and simply wanted to use his fame) ...

One Saturday morning, he and John Dos Passos, his wife, Mike Straiter, president of the Tuna Club, and two of his admirers went to Bimini Island. Catching on the track with a fresh south was lucky. Everyone almost immediately got something. When Ernest, who started fueling up with gin too early that day, pulled his shark to the side, shooting it in the head with a Colt, the hook suddenly broke and he ... shot himself in both legs. And yet it can be said that the sea saved him from many coastal dangers and wild absurdities that plagued him all his life. Hemingway's unbridled rampage was subdued. The pure beauty of a manly sport overcame his natural recklessness of a bully and a bully. Fishing became a hobby that meant more to him than boxing or even hunting. As the purest and most enduring, he portrayed inspiration from a fighting dispute between a man and a fish.

In 1939, after completing Death in the Afternoon, a collection of short stories, Hemingway chartered a 32-foot fishing boat from Joy Russell, owner of the Wet Joy Bar (the bartender is said to have inspired Henry Morgan, the hero of To Have and Have Not) . Hemingway's expedition lasted two months. He returned, composing hymns to the fish defeated in fair duels.

Around the same time, Esquire magazine began to appear. His editor gave Hemingway 3,000 towards future articles. With this money, Hemingway went to the Wheeler shipyard and invested it in the construction of a 38-foot "semi-gliding" boat. In addition to the Chrysler with a capacity of 76 liters. With. on board the now famous Pilar, an auxiliary 40-horsepower Lycoming was also installed, which is used when fishing on the track as an emergency. Under one engine, the boat developed a speed of 10 knots, with the simultaneous operation of both - a good 15 knots. Through the bow cockpit, the entrance to the forward double cabin was opened. The main cabin was unusual - it was located on two decks. On Hemingway's instructions, the bulwark on the transom was cut off in height, and a 6-foot-long roller was fixed on its edge to make it easier to drag large fish onto the deck. The ship was equipped with a tower assembled from pipes with a top bridge, with a canvas canopy. The total cost of the vessel was $7,500.

The boat, of course, was called the Spanish name "Pilar", which is especially dear to Ernest: this is how he called his second wife, and later gave the name Pilar to one of the heroines of the novel "For Whom the Bell Tolls".

Hemingway made his first trip to the same island of Bimini. Within a month he caught some impressive marlin and a 357 kg shark.

It is no exaggeration to say that Erieste Hemingway revolutionized the technique of sea sport fishing. John Ribowicz, a famous fishing boat builder, said that before Hemingway, most hobbyists walked around the fish and gently coaxed them to catch. It was in the style of a relaxing afternoon on the water. Trouble arose only during the exhaustion of the giant tuna and slowly pulling it up, while the sharks "significantly reduced prey." It wasn't for the Pope! Hemingway was a big, strong man - a real textbook for the study of musculature, says John. - And so Hemingway perfected his search and capture techniques so that he began to catch tuna in 40 minutes.

With today's speedboats, you can wear down the fish by overtaking them and cutting them off as they try to get away from the boat. In those days, boats were too slow for such a paddock, but the skipper needed to show real navigating art. The main advantage of Hemingway's method was that he didn't give the sharks enough time to attack. In 1936, he became the first sportsman to bring undamaged tuna to Bimini.

Carlos Baker talks about Hemingway the sailor: "Tourists loved to stare at him as he stood, barefoot wide apart, at the wheel of his cruiser, with a green sun visor over his eyes, in a tattered shirt, with trousers stained with grease and fish blood."

It was a joyful and productive time for the writer! He went on to beat big fish in record time. Yes, and remaining on the shore, he continued to live by the sea. He got up early, wrote before dinner, then wandered off to Wet Joy to drink with regular customers, plot fishing expeditions, tell fishing tales.

One day, Hemingway heard a cruel story about an old Cuban fisherman. He was picked up from the sea - half-mad, sobbing from his loss: a huge marlin was completely gnawed by sharks. Hemingway, passionately dreaming of writing a book about the sea, packed this story into 23,000 words, which have no equal in American literature.

How many writers were fishermen? Probably, there were and are, but there are still classics - writers who describe scenes about fishing in their works. So I wanted to get to know their works closer.

“The old man was fishing all alone in his boat in the Gulf Stream. For eighty-four days he had been sailing in the sea and had not caught a single fish. For the first forty days he had a boy with him. But day after day did not bring a catch, and the parents told the boy that the old man was now clearly salao, that is, the most unlucky one, and ordered to go to sea in another boat, which really brought three good fish in the first week. It was hard for the boy to watch how the old man returned every day with nothing, and he went ashore to help him carry tackle or a hook, a harpoon to a sail wrapped around the mast. The sail was covered with patches of burlap and, rolled up, resembled the flag of a completely defeated regiment.

We see that luck has turned away from the old man, for many days now, he returns without a catch. His most cherished dream is to catch a big fish. The old man loves the sea, he knows it, knows the habits of birds and fish, mentally communicates with them

“... he heard a trembling sound - it was a flying fish coming out of the water and rushing away, whistling through the air with hard wings. He had a tender affection for flying fish - they were his best friends here in the ocean. He felt sorry for birds, especially the small and fragile sea swallows, which are always flying in search of food and almost never find it, and he thought: "A bird's life is much harder than ours, except for vultures and big, strong birds."

By the habits of birds, the old man could accurately determine where the fish was.

“The frigate rose higher and again began to make circles, motionlessly spreading its wings. Suddenly he dived, and the old man saw a flying fish shoot up from the water and frantically rush over the surface of the water.

Mackerel, - the old man said loudly. - Large golden mackerel.

But still couldn't catch a good fish. And then he felt a jolt.

“He was happy, feeling how the fish was slowly pulling the line, and suddenly he felt some incredible heaviness. He felt the weight of the huge fish and, releasing the line, let it slide down, down, down, unwinding one of the spare skeins behind him. The fishing line went down, easily sliding between his fingers, but although he barely held it, he still felt the enormous heaviness that dragged her along.

But the fish does not want to give up, it goes away.

“His efforts were in vain. The fish slowly moved away, and the old man could not bring it an inch closer to him. He had a strong line, designed for large fish, and he threw it over his back and pulled it so tight that water drops jumped on it. Then the line hissed softly in the water, and he kept holding it, leaning against the seat and throwing back his torso. The boat began to move slightly noticeably to the northwest.

And then there is a description of many hours of duel between the old man and the fish. The old man does not forget about the fish for a second, he talks to her, tries to understand why she does not want to give up and shows with all her might that a person will emerge victorious in this fight.

“Though it is unfair, but I will prove to her what a person is capable of and what he can endure.”

The fish was big, not just big, but huge.

“The forest stretched out more and more in length, and finally, the surface of the ocean in front of the boat swelled, and the fish came out of the water. She kept coming and going, and it seemed that there would be no end to her, and the water rolled down in streams from her sides. She burned all over in the sun, her head and back were dark purple, and the stripes on her sides seemed very wide and pale lilac in bright light. Instead of a nose, she had a sword as long as a baseball stick and sharp at the end as a rapier. She rose from the water to her full height, and then sank again, noiselessly, like a swimmer, and as soon as her huge tail, like a sickle blade, went into the depths, the scaffolding began to unwind rapidly.

Large swordfish.

But still, the old man defeated this fish. He speared her with a harpoon. But the fish was so huge that it couldn't fit on the boat, so they had to tie it up. But the trouble is that blood was oozing from the wound pierced by the harpoon. And soon a shark appeared, which smelled the smell of blood.

“Her back was as blue as that of a swordfish, her belly was silver, and her skin was smooth and beautiful, and she looked like a swordfish all over, except for the huge jaws, which were now tightly clenched. She swam quickly at the very surface of the sea, easily cutting through the water with her high dorsal fin. Behind the tightly compressed double lips of her mouth were eight rows of obliquely set teeth. They were not like the usual pyramidal teeth of most sharks, but resembled human fingers, twisted like animal claws. They were as long as the old man's fingers, and the sides were as sharp as razor blades. The shark was created to feed on all marine fish, even those so agile, strong and well-armed that no other enemy was afraid of them. Now she was in a hurry, sensing that the prey was already close, and her blue dorsal fin cut through the water.

The old man managed to cope with the uninvited guest. But others followed. The old man felt how the predators tear off pieces of meat from his prey. The old man did not give up, he fought, he killed another shark, but the forces were unequal. The old man returned to the bay at night. A huge fish tail stuck out behind the stern of his boat, the fish itself was gone, only the skeleton remained. The sight of this skeleton delighted everyone, the inhabitants of the village saw the strength of the old fisherman, and she shocked them.

"Man can be destroyed, but he cannot be defeated."

Was Hemingway himself a fisherman? Here are some facts from his life.

• In the American reference book "Who's Who?" Hemingway was written about his hobbies: fishing, hunting, drinking, debauchery.
• In 1941, Hemingway went to Baltimore, where he bought a large sea launch from a local shipyard, which he named the Pilar. He overtook the ship to Cuba, where he became interested in sea fishing.
• According to the memoirs of his daughter, Heinrich Borovik considered meeting with Ernest Hemingway one of the most important events of his life. Here is one of the memories: “I asked if I could ask him 2-3 questions. “Henry, what are 2-3 questions?! I invite you to go fishing on my schooner "Pilar" ... I still remember that amazing day - we talked for several hours. We only caught one big fish. Hemingway, like a real fisherman, suggested dividing the catch in half - that is, taking half of the fish. But I refused. He was surprised: “Why? This is a very tasty fish, I will name a restaurant where they will cook it chic for you. And I explain to him: “Do you really think that I will eat the fish that Hemingway himself caught? Not to life! Well, then, who will believe me if I say: “Do you know, there was a Hemingway fish in my stomach!”

Friends, thank you very much for your congratulations and kind words. It is very pleasant that you do not forget me, despite the fact that I so rarely remind myself of myself. It so happened that I again disappeared from here for a tangible period, but nevertheless I am writing a sequel, for which everything was ready for a long time, except for myself.

We have already walked along the banks of the Seine, admired the views, met second-hand booksellers and even had dinner in one of the chic restaurants located here. Today's menu will be much more modest - in full accordance with the capabilities of our literary hero and his actual preferences.

I went for a walk along the embankments when I finished writing or when I needed to think. It was easier for me to think when I was walking, or doing something, or watching others do something they know a lot about. The lower end of the island of Cité passes at the New Bridge, where the statue of Henry IV stands, into a narrow arrow, similar to the sharp prow of a ship, and there, near the water, there is a small park with wonderful chestnut trees, huge and spreading, and the rapids and deep backwaters that form here The Seine are excellent fishing spots. You can go down the stairs to the park and watch the fishermen who have settled here and under the big bridge.

The Arrow of the Island of Cité with Vert-Galant (or Vert-Galant, as Hemingway in the classical translation) square located here is a favorite place for Parisians and visitors to the city, especially in good weather. However, this tip of the island looks very picturesque and attractive at any time of the year and under any weather conditions, there is simply nothing to do here in the cold and in the rain. But at sunset on a warm summer day, it's so nice to come here with a book or even a bottle of wine. Or you can use a fishing rod, as Hemingway describes.

From the main part of the island of Cité, the arrow separates the Pont Neuf - one of the most picturesque Parisian bridges. In addition, it is also the oldest surviving bridge in Paris. It was completed just under King Henry IV in 1607, so the statue of the ruler stands here for a reason.

Personally, I like to look at the heads decorating the New Bridge - you probably won’t find two identical ones.

And such faces can be found in the bases of lampposts on the bridge:

Here is the equestrian statue of Henry IV.

The gaze of the ruler is turned to the main part of the island, he looks towards the Place Dauphin, at these pretty houses - the same age as the bridge.

And the arrow of the island of Cité cuts the waves of the Seine behind him.

And each time it is impossible to deny yourself the pleasure of going down to Vert-Galan Square, along the narrow stone stairs...

On March 18, 1314, when there was neither a bridge nor an arrow in its current form, and indeed this part of the Cité was still a separate small island, the Grand Master of the Knights Templar Jacques de Molay was burned at this place.

Nowadays, as you can see, a much more cheerful atmosphere reigns here :)

But the fishermen here today, contrary to Hemingway, do not appear at all (or almost) ...

Fishing spots varied according to the water level in the river, and anglers used folding bamboo rods, but with very thin line, light tackle and goose feather floats; they skillfully fed the fish in the place where they caught. They always managed to catch something, and often caught on the hook a great roach-like fish called goujon. Fried whole, it's just delicious, and I could eat a full plate. Its meat is very tender and tastes better than even fresh sardines and does not give off fat at all, and we ate the fish right with the bones.

According to the dictionary goujon- this is not something exotic, purely French, but banal minnows. However, I personally don’t remember that I have ever eaten even banal Russian minnows, not to mention Parisian ones :) In general, river fish has become exotic for many city dwellers, in whatever language you call it, and modern Parisians in this regard is no exception (I’ll say a few words about this later). The “provincials”, of course, have more chances, judging by the discussions I met on some French fishing forums :) But I don’t have reliable information about whether goujon is still found in the Seine in Paris...

I knew some of those who fished in the most fishy places of the Seine, between the islands of Saint-Louis and Place Vert-Galante, and sometimes, on clear days, I bought a liter of wine, bread and sausage, sat in the sun, just read bought a book and watched the fishing.

In general, on the banks of the Seine you can meet almost anyone! People are on fire...

rest...

enjoy the views...

communicate...

retire...

read...

drinking wine...

In general, they walk and have a good time.

That's just - as if! - no one fishes :) For a long time I tried to find at least one angler on the banks of the Seine, reminiscent of the heroes of Hemingway's times. And until now, I confess, out of habit I continue to look at the motley crowd: will a promising fishing rod flash somewhere on the shore? And one day luck smiled at me after all!

True, my characters were a little different from what I expected to see...

The little fishermen sat on the western tip of the Ile Saint-Louis, with a picturesque view of Notre Dame, and went about their business with a seriousness and confidence that any adult would envy.

However, apparently, this place was considered strategically unsuccessful shortly after I noticed these guys, so they reeled up their fishing rods and set off in search of a better position with a businesslike look ...

Peering along the way at potentially attractive backwaters.

Will there be any sign of underwater life on the surface?

Travel writers like to portray Parisian fishermen as if they were obsessed fish who never bite, but in fact this occupation is quite serious and even profitable. Most anglers lived on a modest pension, not yet suspecting that inflation would turn it into nothing, but there were also avid amateurs who spent all their free time on the river. In Charenton, where the Seine flows into the Marne, the fishing was better outside the city, but in Paris itself it was possible to fish well.

I have to say that I just wasn't very lucky. Because when trying to find some information about modern Parisian anglers, it turned out that urban fishing is a popular Parisian pastime. True, today the Seine is no longer the main water artery for those who like to cast a bait, or at least not the only one. Canal Saint-Martin actively competes with it. The very one on the surface of which one well-known heroine loved to let pancakes, not a book, but a cinematic one - Amelie :)

Moreover, different articles for 2013 write about fishing in approximately the same vein: they say that this entertainment in Paris is gaining more and more popularity. It is spoken of as a "new genre" that emerged in the 2000s. Modern urban fishing has very little to do with what Hemingway saw it as. Let's start with the fact that this is entertainment for young people: the lion's share of its adherents are students, lyceum students and young professionals. They even have their own "Union of Anglers of Paris and the Seine", which, unlike many similar associations, grows and develops, and not vice versa. Among its members there are enough children aged 13-14 years. From this point of view, the couple I met is not so much out of the current trend :)

Secondly, the choice of a fishing spot is usually driven more by convenience and accessibility than by strategic considerations. Today's young Parisians enjoy fishing just by crossing the road after school or work, or leaving their favorite bar. Therefore, the Canal Saint-Martin has gained such popularity: it is a very “party” area, with an abundance of cafes, restaurants and other establishments beloved by young people - people flock here one way or another to spend their leisure time and chat. The motto of modern Parisian anglers is: "We fish where we live." Many of them say that they do their favorite “sport” whenever they have a free minute - they just go to the river and cast a line. Some office workers do this at lunchtime without changing their business suits for something more comfortable.

Thirdly, modern Parisian fishing is really an active holiday. It has very little to do with "old school" fishing, where a pot-bellied angler sat motionless for hours in one place, sipping beer. Modern young people are always on the move, they are in constant pursuit of fish, not staying long at the chosen point. I came across a curious scheme that marks the most popular places for urban fishing. Pay attention to the dotted line “bike fishing” running along the coast - the personification of this trend towards constant movement. In fact, this is a leisurely cycling route, with frequent stops in order to cast a bait.

Fourth, the sport has "environmental" tendencies and promotes "respect for animals and the environment." Not to mention the fact that the very fact of the growing popularity of this entertainment speaks of positive changes in the ecology of the city. Indeed, the waterways of Paris are in much better condition than one might think, and this is the merit of the last couple of decades. They say that in the 80s everything was really bad, but serious cleaning work was carried out (and, of course, maintenance in proper condition), and the result was not long in coming. Today, 32 species of fish live in the Seine, while only three were recorded in the 70s. Therefore, the goal of modern anglers is not every little thing, but more interesting living creatures: catfish, pike, black perch. Curiosities also happen: last fall, to the delight of the media, a real South American piranha was caught in the Seine, and in the summer of 2012 a similar incident occurred on the Saint-Martin Canal. But the police claim that all these examples are from the category of stories when an annoying pet is released into the water.

Fifth, the “respect for animals” mentioned above implies that the caught fish is not eaten (and not even fed to cats, according to the good Russian tradition), but released. In addition, the use of such fish for food is officially prohibited due to heavy metals contained in the water (with all the positive trends, a big city is a big city). But for anglers, the ethical principle is still paramount. Today, for them, it is only a sport, and not a means to feed their families.

I didn't fish myself because I didn't have tackle and I preferred to save money to go fishing in Spain. In addition, I myself did not know exactly when I would finish work or when I would be away, and therefore did not want to commit myself to fishing, which can only be done at certain hours. But I kept a close eye on the anglers, and it always pleased me to know that I understood all the subtleties, and the idea that even in this big city people do not fish for fun and bring the catch home for friture [“fried fish” ( French)], gave me joy.

SMALL FISH FRITURE

Of course, to fully comply with the plot, it is better to use river fish in this recipe. Ideally - goujon, that is, minnows. But where to find such an “exotic” in modern Paris, I have no idea :) Buying delicious, fresh fish here, of course, is not a problem: now I have at least two fish shops within walking distance, which I could not even dream of, as well as there is a temporary market that comes three times a week and also offers a couple of fish stalls. But they trade there exclusively (or almost exclusively) in sea fish and seafood. In general, I did not invent strange quests for myself and, with a light heart, replaced the river fish with sea fish. In some ways, this is probably even better: fewer bones. And the most suitable for deep-frying small sea fish (from those available to me) are sardines. They became my “catch” this time.

I will also say a few words about the marinade. I indicate rather conditional proportions - they can be changed at your discretion, as well as the composition of the spicy mixture itself. In fact, the dish that we are preparing today is so simple that it is not even a recipe, but just some general algorithm of actions. So creativity is welcome here :)

Ingredients:
500 g small fish
3-4 garlic cloves (cut very finely)
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
0.5 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp paprika
2 tbsp. l. olive oil
2 tbsp. l. lemon juice
Flour for breading
Deep frying oil

Cooking:
1. We clean the fish, gut and cut off the heads.
2. Prepare the marinade: mix garlic, salt, spices, olive oil and lemon juice.

3. Pour prepared fish into a bowl with marinade and carefully roll it in it - each fish should be well covered with a spicy mixture. Cover the bowl with cling film and refrigerate for at least two hours. I left it to marinate overnight.
4. Immediately before cooking, we take the fish out of the refrigerator. We do not shake off the marinade and do not wipe it, but simply roll each fish in flour so that it is covered with a dry spicy crust.

5. Heat the oil in a saucepan. Let me remind you that the average deep-frying temperature is 180 ºС. When the oil is hot enough, the food in it cooks very quickly and has time to absorb less fat. Fry the fish in portions, in several stages. The oil is hot, and the fish is small, so just a couple of minutes in boiling oil is enough for it to reach readiness.

Take the fish out of the fryer and place it on paper towels to drain excess oil. Then - in a warm plate and under the lid, while the rest is fried. Such fish is especially tasty when it's hot, when it's still quite hot! When it cools down, it's not the same anymore. And it cools down quickly. So, without wasting time, when the last batch is cooked, we immediately serve it on the table. Best with some light, fresh side dish, like vegetable salad.

Very simple and very tasty dinner. And, by the way, cheap even in modern times - quite affordable for a novice writer. If the fish is not overexposed in oil, it turns out to be very tender. The pulp is easily separated from the ridge, and small bones are not felt at all.

The fishermen and the busy river, the beauties of the barges with their special life on board, the tugs with pipes that leaned back so as not to touch the bridges, and the line of barges trailing behind the tug, the majestic elms on the stone-clad banks, plane trees and here and there poplars - I never felt alone by the river.

The boy's father Clarence Hemingway was known as a passionate connoisseur of fishing and hunting. He instilled a love for these hobbies in his son.

early years

Clarence Hemingway wanted Ernest to follow in his footsteps and become a doctor, but from a very young age, the boy was drawn to dangerous places across distant seas and countries. He always knew that he would definitely visit all the distant shores described in his favorite books, and he himself would become a famous writer.

In 1917, when the States decided to enter the First World War, Hemingway finished school and wanted to go to the front. However, he was not taken as a volunteer due to an existing eye injury.

Ernest, who has made a firm decision to escape from his provincial town at any cost, immediately goes to Kansas City, where he becomes a reporter for the Star newspaper. It was in this edition that he went through his very first school of journalism and showed his talent as a writer.

War

Hemingway does not stop his attempts to get into the war, and one day he succeeds. The young man signs up as an ordinary driver in the Red Cross and immediately leaves for, to the front. The writer failed to fight for a long time - saving a comrade on the battlefield, he himself receives severe wounds in both legs. Hemingway had to spend long months in the hospital and undergo as many as twelve operations. In 1919, Ernest returns to his homeland, to the United States - this is how his first serious adventure ends. At home he is greeted as a hero.

Throughout his life, Hemingway had a chance to visit many wars. Immediately after his recovery, he goes on a big tour of Africa. After that, he returns to Europe, closely follows the civil war unfolding in, and even personally fights on the side of the Republicans. Everything he saw in this war was later described in the famous novel For Whom the Bell Tolls.

When World War II began, Hemingway did not want to sit in the rear and became a war correspondent. He takes part in many operations, personally tracks down Nazi submarines in the Caribbean and even creates his own counterintelligence. The writer also participates in sorties to and Germany.

Sea

In addition to the war, there was another great passion in the life of the writer - the sea. In the 30s, he constantly visits Cuba, until one day he stays in this country for as long as 20 years. Hemingway rents a villa called "Finca Vahia", located in the Havana area, in the city of San Francisco de Paula.

Finally, the writer gets the opportunity to do his favorite things - to contemplate the vast expanse of the ocean, fish and write. He interacts a lot and often with local fishermen, whom he meets at two of his favorite bars, Floridita and La Bodeguita del Medio.

However, the fisherman decides to continue doing his job, not falling into despair and believing in the final victory, because “... man is not created to endure defeats. Man can be destroyed, but he cannot be defeated."