How to get to Lake Ladoga. Beach on Cape Morie (Lake Ladoga). Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

There is a route that can be completed by any interested Petersburger or guest who has arrived in St. Petersburg and has a free day. We go to the Finlyandsky railway station and get on the train, leaving for the Ladoga Lake terminal station. A couple of hours of talking, reading magazines, playing games on a mobile phone, and finally, the end of our journey and the railway line.
Directly next to the platform, you can see a steam locomotive that worked on the Road of Life. It is recognized as a historical monument and now, polished to a shine, it is important to meet and see off local electric trains. What is the Road of Life, a little further ..

Well, now it's time to get acquainted with the largest freshwater lake in Europe. We cross a small (a couple of hundred meters) pine forest, stretching along the railway. And so .. In front of us is a slowly swaying giant granite bowl. Ladoga, Lake Ladoga, the great Nevo sea. Indeed, it is breathtaking from the realization of some solemnity when you go out on its shore. First impression - I'm at sea. There can be no question of any visibility of the opposite shore, the lake has a length of more than 200, and a width of more than 100 kilometers.

Such expanses of water in the northern conditions of the Leningrad region and Karelia are rarely calm, therefore Ladoga is known for its storms and mighty waves.

A kilometer south of the railway station, a tall (74 meters) lighthouse was built. By the name of the cape, he got his name - Osinovetsky. Due to the height, the light from the lighthouse is visible over the Ladoga waters at a distance of up to 40 km.

If we go from the station behind the Osinovetsky lighthouse, then we will arrive at a very important place in the history of the blockade of Leningrad and in general in the history of the Great Patriotic War. The Road of Life passed here, which connected the besieged Leningrad with the rest of the country. Through Lake Ladoga (in summer on ships, in winter on ice) there was a constant supply of food products and other goods of urgent need to the city. At the place where the Road of Life passes from land to water, the Broken Ring monument is erected.

On the railway map of the Leningrad region, I was always interested in the Irinovsky direction a rather short line going from St. Petersburg to the east and ending on the shore of Lake Ladoga. The line "to nowhere", but trains run along it. What is there at the end? And what, in fact, does Lake Ladoga look like, after which the terminal station of this line is named?

I also knew that during the war it was this railway that was the “Road of Life”, and this was the second reason why when I finally got tired of walking around St. Petersburg, on the next weekend I took an electric train at the Finland Station and went to the Ladoga Lake station .

The train to Lake Ladoga takes about an hour and twenty minutes. The line passes through Vsevolozhsk, a suburb of St. Petersburg, which, despite its relative proximity, belongs to the Leningrad region. There are no large settlements beyond Vsevolozhsk, and the line really goes “to nowhere” it’s even strange that electric trains have not been canceled yet.

Once this railway was built by a certain Baron Korf to carry peat along it. It turned out to rhyme :) The road was narrow-gauge, and it had its own small railway station, Okhtinsky. In the 1920s it was changed to a regular track, reached the Finlyandsky railway station, and Okhtinsky was demolished. Behind the Melnichny Ruchey station in Vsevolozhsk, the road now divides into two directions to Lake Ladoga and Nevskaya Dubrovka and both are dead ends. The road to Lake Ladoga is single-track. The only station is now located in the village of Borisova Griva, and in Irinovka and other villages along the way there are only stops.

I got to Lake Ladoga on the nominal train "Change". Nothing from the unnamed, however, did not differ.

The station is a dead end, and, apart from electric trains, nothing goes here. However, the station building is quite large and unusual. Although there are no ticket offices at the station.

The first monument stands right there at the station. Some piece of torn metal. I could not figure out what it was the sign seems to have been torn off.

The second monument is also near the station, a steam locomotive from blockade times. And the last kilometer column with the inscription "Road of Life".

Seeing that I was photographing a steam locomotive, an elderly woman passing by from the train advised me to go to the Museum of the Road of Life, and showed me how to get there. I heard about the fact that there is a Museum of the Road of Life in this village, but I had no plans to go there at first (I don’t really like museums in general). And then, after thinking, I decided to take a look. And I did not regret it, but about the museum a little lower.

As far as I understood from the signs, there are two villages right next to it - the station Ladoga Lake and the slightly larger Osinovets.

And here is Lake Ladoga itself. It's really close here. Lake Ladoga is much more like a sea than the real St. Petersburg Sea, the Gulf of Finland. It is bigger, and deeper, and more severe. Of course, I couldn't help but like it :)

I wonder if in clear weather you can see the far shore here. Before it should be about 25 km. Of course, the lake itself is much wider, about 120 kilometers by 170 , this is just its southernmost part, the Shlisselburg Bay.

In St. Petersburg on this day (December 4) it was +2 and damp yes, in fact, in St. Petersburg it is still +2 and damp. And the lake is noticeably cooler. It was snowing, and the sand on the shore froze and formed such a sharp edge. It is interesting when the lake itself freezes.

At least the swamps by the road were already frozen over.

The museum here is also just a few minutes walk, but on the way to it, a couple more monuments manage to meet.

Here is the museum. At first it seemed to me that the door was locked, but when I started photographing the outdoor exhibition, my aunt came out and asked me to pay. I went in, paid and looked at the internal exposition too :) They say that there are quite a lot of visitors to the museum, especially in a more decent time of the year. With me, there were only two men who looked at everything much faster than me. I had to walk alone again with a smart look under the watchful eye of museum aunts, which I don’t like so much; however, it is even worth it.

I really liked the museum. Although the content seems to be the usual photographs, diagrams, documents, newspaper clippings, machine guns and other not very large items from those times, ship models. Maybe it's because the subject matter is interesting. In general, I am not a fan of military history, but the topic of the blockade of Leningrad has always made a very strong impression on me. And just to live in those places where there were battles and pillboxes have been standing since then is also, let's say, impressive. This is not the Urals for you, where, apart from Pugachev and the White Czechs, they never fought with anyone. I learned a lot about the Road of Life for the first time. For example, I was surprised that in the summer, much more cargo was carried by barges along Ladoga than in winter over ice by cars and by a temporary railway. It would seem that ice is easier ...

Imagine what it meant for people to read in the newspaper: SHLISSELBURG OUR.

This diagram shows the Ladoga Lake station (there is no railroad now to Morier Bay) and Osinovets Bay, where barges came. I went to Cape Osinovets after visiting the museum.

The outdoor exposition of the museum is quite large.

Vessels (in a very deplorable state, but somehow even better. You can feel how much time has passed).

Transport plane even.

And something in the museum appeared already clearly later. For example, this pile of scrap metal is all that remains of the downed Il-2 attack aircraft. In particular, the oval piece of iron on the left seemed to be a sheet of armor behind the pilot's back. The dents on it seem to symbolize.

And this is a truck lifted from the bottom of the lake.

Closer up.

Another monument on the territory of the museum.

Behind the museum begins the village, the main street of which is also called the Road of Life. I didn't take a picture, but the village is actually mostly built up with new cottages, many with a view of Lake Ladoga. In general, no wonder, the place is good. I would have lived myself :) I wonder how much the plot with a view of the lake costs ...

The A128 motorway goes from St. Petersburg to the village. And it is also called the Road of Life. It begins in St. Petersburg in the Rzhevka area, where the Ryabovskoe highway is called; runs almost parallel to the Irinovskaya railway through Vsevolozhsk, Borisova Griva, Osinovets/Ladoga Lake; and ends in Morya, a village about five kilometers north of here.

Highway A128 at the exit from the village.

Cape Osinovets is now mostly built up. Slightly in the depths of the cape is a lighthouse, now used as a cellular communication mast. The lighthouse was built in 1905; it is the second tallest lighthouse on Ladoga. The bay into which the barges entered is located on the other side of the cape (it is poorly visible from the shore). Before the war, it was believed that this bay was completely unsuitable for the entry of ships. The war showed that, as they say, there would be a desire ...

The lighthouse was my favorite. Actually, for the first time in my life I saw a real lighthouse nearby. It's a pity you can't get on it now. According to the Internet, earlier it was possible to agree with the watchman, but now, when the antennas have been hung on him, it’s already FIG. By the way, nearby on the cape is a recreation center called "Osinovetsky Lighthouse".

Well, a hundred meters behind the end of the contact wire, the rails also end, a very massive dead-end prism. I will have to come here again sometime and go further, to Morya. There, they say, there is an abandoned military unit :)

The stunning beauty of Lake Ladoga is 40 km away. east of St. Petersburg, in the territories of the Leningrad region and the Republic of Karelia. This is the largest freshwater lake in Europe, the length of which from north to south is 219 km., From east to west - 138 km. The average depth is 50 km, but in some places it reaches 230 m. The total area of ​​the lake is more than 18,000 km2.

Having a glacial origin, the lake has a weak thermal conductivity, having the ability to slowly heat up and cool down. Possessing low mineralization of waters, the lake is relatively transparent.

Nature has been creating this unique masterpiece for centuries, depriving it of dullness and monotony. Lake Ladoga consists of many islands (650 islands), the largest of which is Valaam, which is part of the Valaam archipelago. The Valaam Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Savior is located on this island.

The northern shores of the lake are high and rocky, indented by many straits and small peninsulas (skerries). The southern shores, on the contrary, are low and swampy, with smooth outlines. The coastal part of the lake has three wide bays, called bays. On the eastern shores there are pine forests and overgrowth of shrubs, interspersed with sandy beaches and a scattering of boulders. The western shore is marked by rocky ridges ("fences") that flow deep into the lake.

32 rivers carry their waters to Ladoga, the largest of which are the swift Svir, Volkhov, Vuoksa. The lake is a source of drinking water for St. Petersburg.

58 species of fish live in Lake Ladoga, such as perch, trout, char, salmon, whitefish, pike perch, vendace, pike, bream, roach, burbot, blue bream and others. The main attraction of the lake is the Ladoga seal. It is darker and smaller than the sea, with a complex pattern of white spots and rings on the skin.

Another animal worth mentioning is the dolphin. Sometimes they visit Lake Ladoga from the Baltic.

How to get to Lake Ladoga?

You can get to Lake Ladoga by electric train from the Finlyandsky Station (Ploshchad Lenina metro station) to the Ladoga Lake station. Then you need to walk 2 km. walk along the lake through the territory of the military unit.

If you go to the lake by car, then you need to drive 45 km. along the Ryabovsky highway A 128 to the Ladoga lake station, and then walk 2 km., or get to the Borisova Griva station, and then through the village of Morye.

During the day, there are not very many people on the lake, the main influx of tourists falls on weekends. They are outdoor enthusiasts. Party lovers sometimes drive in cars, but this happens mostly on weekends. On weekdays, you can enjoy the silence of these places, listen to the rustle of the waves, admire the sky, wind, sunrises and sunsets.

Where to stay? Prices and tourism

Not far from Lake Ladoga there are tourist bases and recreation centers. They offer a full range of services for entertainment and pleasant pastime. You can rent bicycles, water bikes, ATVs, go fishing, go boating, play table tennis, volleyball, streetball and much more. In winter, you can ski, snowmobile, play bandy.

Spa treatments, Russian baths, massages, chocolate wraps and much more are also offered.

There are many recreation centers: Samaya Ladoga, Ruskeala, Lumivaara, etc. Prices in summer are higher than in winter months. At the Samaya Ladoga Base on weekdays, accommodation will cost you from 1500 per day, and on weekends - from 2000 rubles. On the basis of Lumivaara, renting a house for two in the summer will cost from 2900 rubles, and in the winter months - from 1700. Children of preschool age live free of charge, and from 7 to 14 years old - 259 rubles. per day. It all depends on the comfort of housing and the number of residents.

Whatever we say about Russian roads, new roads are constantly being built around Lake Ladoga, old ones are being straightened, and the asphalt surface is being improved. Travel time is reduced, small villages and simply beautiful places remain away from those passing by. People, every year, more and more do not have enough time to look around, explore the surroundings, turn off the road in search of something interesting in terms of history or just in search of beautiful landscapes. Those who do not have their own car and are forced to use the services of the railway consider only those places to which they were taken by the train, and those who have a car are often simply afraid, having left the highway, they will no longer be able to return to it on their own. In this report, I will try to tell you about the places I liked that can be reached by a regular car. These are beaches, and interesting places with beautiful landscapes and places for recreation. These are cities and small villages, and very tiny villages with an interesting history. I will also tell you about temples, fortresses and everything that may interest you. We will start our journey from the city of St. Petersburg, which is inextricably linked with Lake Ladoga with its history and the only river flowing from Lake Ladoga. Many people know that this river is called Neva, but not many people know that Lake Ladoga was once called Nevo. I already talked about the lake itself.

Shlisselburg and Oreshek fortress

Our first point of visit will be the city of Shlisselburg and the legendary Oreshek fortress. Shlisselburg (Shlusenburg, Shlyushin), appeared at the beginning of the 14th century as Oreshek, after the name of the fortress, first wooden, and by the middle of the 14th century stone. It was founded by Novgorodians, more than once passed into the hands of the Swedes, who renamed it Noteburg. It was finally recaptured at the beginning of the 18th century by Tsar Peter I, and, as befits Peter, was renamed in the German manner to Shlisselburg (Key City). Fortress "Oreshek" became a prison. Peter sent unwanted relatives there, for example, his first wife Evdokia Lopukhina and sister Maria Alekseevna. Emperor Ivan VI was killed there, having lived in isolation all his life and interfered with Catherine II. No less famous people served their sentences in this fortress at different times. Biron E.I., Bestuzhevy, Morozov N.A., Kuchelbeker V.K., Bakunin M.A., Golitsyn D.M., Dolgorukov D.D., Rokossovsky K.K., Ordzhonikidze G.K., and finally, Alexander Ulyanov, who was hanged here. During the Second World War, Shlisselburg was occupied, and Oreshek held the defense for 500 days. Now the fortress hosts holidays, festivities and reconstructions of the events of bygone days.

New and Staraya Ladoga

Next, we will proceed to the ancient capital of Northern Rus' - Staraya Ladoga, of course, we will also visit Novaya Ladoga. Due to the fact that Staraya Ladoga is not just old, but very old and the city played an important role in the political development of Rus', the history of this settlement is very rich. In addition to the story itself, there are a huge number of conjectures, theories, etc. Until now, they find out who first settled here, where the name came from, who Rurik was, whether the settlement was the first capital of Rus'. I don’t know if you need to study all this thoroughly, but it’s definitely necessary to visit and, so to speak, touch history. Of the sights, it is worth admiring the Staraya Ladoga Fortress, St. George's Cathedral, Nikolsky Monastery, Assumption Monastery, the Church of John the Baptist and beautiful views of the Volkhov River. Then we will go closer to Lake Ladoga towards Novaya Ladoga. Very interesting, cozy and unusual town. It was formed on the site of the Nikolo-Medvedsky Monastery under Tsar Peter I. Initially, as a fortified area, then a shipyard was organized here, about 2 thousand workers, part of the population of Staraya Ladoga and several regiments of infantry were rounded up. In 1719, the construction of the Ladoga Canal (Petrovsky) began. In the middle of the 19th century, parallel to the first, the New Ladoga Canal was dug, wider and deeper. During the Second World War, Novaya Ladoga played an important role in supporting transport links along the "Road of Life" with the blockaded Leningrad. I liked the city, of course, a lot needs to be restored, but basically I left a good impression. There is a feeling that the town is stuck somewhere in the 60s. All the main architectural monuments are on the main street, which is a beautiful alley along which you can leisurely walk. Further, on our way to Syasstroy, we will stop by to take a closer look at the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which is surrounded on all sides by Lenin Street. More recently, this place was called Nosok. Nosok village.

Pasha Zagubie

We will not linger here, but we will drive a little further and briefly stop in the village of Pasha and study directions towards Lake Ladoga along the river of the same name. We will drive to the village of Tomilino, see a small but very beautiful Church of the Ascension of the Lord. Then we will ride towards Sviritsa, visit the "Bird Island", see how the local population lives, drive to the memorial lighthouse ... Then we will return to the village of Kondratyevo and drive to the village of Zagubie. We will visit the newly rebuilt parish, consecrated in honor of the holy great martyr and healer Panteleimon, located opposite the ancient Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord. The parish recently celebrated its 185th anniversary.

Lodeynoye Pole

Here the Svir River ends its run, connecting the Ladoga and Onega lakes. And the next large settlement near the Svir and our trip will be the city of Lodeynoye Pole. As in Novaya Ladoga in 1702, Tsar Peter I founded the Olonets shipyard here. Prince A.D. Menshikov supervised the construction. A year after the start of construction, the first frigate of the Baltic Fleet, Shtandart, left the shipyard. Two famous sloops (small, three-masted ships) were built here. "Diana", under the command of then lieutenant, V. M. Golovnin, circumnavigated the world in 1807-1811, and "Mirny", which, under the command of M. P. Lazarev, participated in the discovery of Antarctica along with the Vostok sloop. By the way, Mirny was originally called Ladoga. Crossing the Svir River on the bridge, I finish the first stage of our journey and begin the second one, passing along the northeast of Lake Ladoga.

The first point we will visit is the famous Holy Trinity Alexander-Svirsky Monastery, founded by St. Alexander Svirsky at the end of the 15th century. The monastery consists of two complexes. Trinity and Preobrazhensky. The monastery conquered with its monumentality, beautiful and well-groomed landscape, magnificent landscapes, well-equipped and cleanliness. Cleanliness everywhere, even in the toilets. A beautiful place, fertile, I strongly advise you to stop by, even if you are not a believer.

Olonets

The next point will be the city of Olonets. The only city in Karelia where Karelians are the predominant population. Karelians – livviks (sub-ethnos) also live here, Olonets was the capital of this nation until the middle of the 17th century. The first written references date back to 1137 and 1228. Until the middle of the 17th century, Olonets played an important border role. In 1649 Olonets became a fortified town. The fortress itself burned down in a fire in 1741 and was never restored. In 1773, by decree of Catherine II, the Olonets province was created. Olonets became a regional city, and since 1801 - a county town of the Olonets province. At the same time, Petrozavodsk became the administrative center, and Olonets gradually turned into a quiet provincial town, which it still is. Along the entire length of the Olonets, sometimes on the right, sometimes on the left, or even on both sides, you see a river, or rather two rivers. In the center of Olonets, the Megrega River flows into the Olonka River, after which the city was named. By the way, in Olonka and Megrega, the Livviks mined pearls.

Border guards

Further, our path lies in the Border Kondushi. The road pressed close to the endless sandy beaches of Lake Ladoga. At almost any moment you can leave the track and immediately find yourself at the shore. In the summer months, you can relax here, sunbathe, swim, make a halt and go further with renewed vigor. The border guards are located on a hill, from where a spacious view of Lake Ladoga opens. Sometimes the horizon line separating the sky and water is practically invisible, only a slight difference in color can be distinguished. From the middle of the 16th century, this place was known as Konda. Kondo pine (honka) grows just on a hill and therefore absorbs less moisture, respectively, it is more durable. The first border here lay in 1618 and since then the border Konda has become the Border Condush. Here was the border between Russia and Sweden, then Russia and the Grand Duchy of Finland, then Soviet Russia and Independent Finland. An observation tower has recently been built here. More for fun than review. It is interesting to climb and swing in the wind with her.

Salmi

Then we move towards Salmi. The Salmi settlement on the Tulemajoki River has been mentioned since 1568 as the center of the Voskresensko-Solomensky churchyard of the Vodskaya Pyatina. In Russian, the Karelian name Salmi was pronounced as "Straw". The part of the village where the Church of the Resurrection of Christ stood since the 16th century was also called Kirkkonjoki (“church river”). In 1632, by decree of the Swedish king Gustav II Adolf, the village of Salmi received the status of a trading town, which, however, was abolished already in 1654. On November 30, 1921, an earthquake of about 5 points occurred here. Agate is found 3-4 kilometers to the north, uranium was recently discovered.

Pitkyaranta

Leaving Salmi, we move towards the city of Pitkyaranta (long coast). The history of the Pitkyaranta settlement is closely connected with the development of the rich Pitkyaranta tin-polymetallic deposit in the 19th century. In the bowels of the Pitkyaranta land there are countless treasures - tin, copper, lead, zinc, silver, iron, gold ... More than a hundred varieties of minerals are concentrated in a small area within the city and to the north of it. These wonderful and useful stones attract geologists and mineralogists, inspire and delight everyone who is not indifferent to the nature of Karelia. ("Karelskoe Ladoga"). Endless sandbanks end here, and the world of Ladoga skerries, sheer cliffs, indented coasts, amazing and enchanting landscapes begins.

Läskelä-Hijdenselga-Impiniemi

Almost immediately after Pitkyaranta, you will have a fork to a new high-speed highway and towards Impilahti. Do not pass by the legendary place where the maiden Impi is said to have been born. According to one of them, Impi is the mother of Väinemöinen himself (immaculate conception from the wind), according to another (with different variations), the maiden Impi fell in love with the wrong person her parents wanted. The result is unhappy love, a jump from a cliff (according to one version), or exile and subsequent death in stormy Ladoga. But the ending of these stories is the same - Impi, having drowned, turned into a mermaid. Even before the entrance to Impilahti, you will pass a place called Kitela. Garnets (almadins) are still found here. If you went in the direction of the highway, anyway, until you leave it, about 10 km. from the fork, in the direction to the north (61 ° 45.181 "N 31 ° 24.761" E), is the Yukankoski Falls or "White Bridges". The next major point will be Lyaskelya. In 1618, Laskelya was represented by only one court, the owner of which was Onashka Laskenen. In 1860, a sawmill was built here, in 1899 a hydroelectric power station was built on the Janisjoki River, in 1915 a paper mill was launched, by the beginning of the Winter War there was one of the largest productions of paper raw materials. After the war, production resumed in 1946. By the beginning of the 1990s, the Lyaskelsky factory was the largest enterprise in Russia for the production of wallpaper paper and covered a quarter of the demand for this type of product in the country. Then we turn to Hiidenselga, (hiidenselka - the ridge of the goblin), under the Finns it was called Joensuu (river mouth), in Finland there is a city of the same name. The ridge of the goblin or the back of the goblin, in the form of a rock, rises above the village and amazing views of the Ladoga skerries open from it. Opposite the village of Hiidenselga, 200 m from the shore, there is a small islet of Kalkkisaari (in the past - Joen, Juven), on which from the 1770s until the middle of the 19th century, beautiful marble with white, dark gray and grayish-green stripes was broken out intermittently and divorces, similar to petrified sea waves. This stone was used in the decoration of some palaces and temples of St. Petersburg (Marble Palace, St. Isaac's Cathedral, Mikhailovsky Castle, Winter Palace), as well as in the construction and decoration of churches and chapels on the island of Valaam. ("Karelskoe Ladoga").

Kirjavalahti

Further, our journey continues along one of the most beautiful bays of Lake Ladoga - Kirjavalahti (kirjavalahti - motley bay). Why colorful? Come fall, you'll understand. Magnificent views open directly from the car window. You can't stop everywhere, so make a stop whenever possible. On the way to Sortavala, on one of the picturesque sections of the road, there is a gray, stone house, you won’t pass by. From it, up the mountain, there is a path that is not at all tiring. At the very top, an unforgettable spectacle of the beauty of the northernmost bay of Lake Ladoga awaits you. You can take something with you for a picnic, along the way there will be a spring with clean and cool water.

Helyula-Mullyukylä-Paaso

Having descended from the mountain, we continue our way towards the city of Sortavala. Literally after a few kilometers you come to a fork. If you turn right. Towards the border, you can see the beauty of the "Marble (Ruskeala) Lakes", waterfalls, where such films as "The Dawns Here Are Quiet" and "Dark World" were filmed. This will take several hours. Even closer to the border, you can visit Lake Janisjärvi. There are several recreation centers there. If you decide to drive straight through the fork, then the next point will be the village of Helyulya. After the bridge over the river Tohmajoki, you can turn right towards the village of Myllykyulya. There, at the end of the village, on the same river Tohmajoki, you can admire the waterfall. Leaving the village of Helyulya, at the very exit, before reaching the bridge over the Helyulänjoki River, you will see a small mountain. This historical place is called Paasonvuori. On its top in the XII-XIII centuries there was a settlement-shelter of the Karelians. Until now, the remains of stone-earth defensive ramparts are visible here. During the archaeological excavations carried out on Mount Paaso from 1979 to 2005, S.I. Kochkurkina, the richest and most numerous collection of household items and occupations of the ancient Karelians made of metal was collected here: spearheads and arrowheads, brooches, pendants, hairpins, knitting needles, laces, scabbards, axes, locks, keys, shaving blades, hooks, botalos, nails and more. At the turn of the 15th-16th centuries, a Russian border garrison (“Liguev town”) stood on Mount Paaso, protecting the Sortaval lands from the Swedes (“Karelian Ladoga Region”). Here ends the second part of our journey.

Sortavala

A couple more kilometers and we enter the city of Sortavala. This is my hometown. Its brief history is described here as a small tour of the city. I will not repeat.

Riekkalansaari

You can tell in more detail about the island of Riekkalansaari, where the city came from. A pontoon crossing leads from the city to the island. Riekkalansaari is the largest island in Lake Ladoga. The island is called "Orthodox", because even before the city was founded, the Orthodox (Greek) faith penetrated here. Kreika-Riekka, possibly from Finnish and Karelian turns. The nature of the island is unique. The island has high cliffs with gloomy gorges, vast plains with overgrown arable land and meadows, swampy hollows, and even one small lake. There are many interesting places here, but in order to take a look at the whole island and all its sights, Riuttavuori (reef mountain) is enough, located on the eastern coast of the island of Riekkalansaari and is a high granite rock with a steep western slope. From its top, unique pictures of Karelian landscapes open up to all parts of the world. One such species was even depicted on the Finnish banknote of 500 marks in 1878.

Vuorio-Taruniemi-Reuskula-Lahdenpohja

Leaving the island of Riekkalansaari and the city of Sortavala, we begin the third part of our auto-run. On the way to Priozersk, we will meet many settlements, each of which can be told a lot. For example, Cape Taruniemi (fabulous cape), where the cottage-museum of Gustav Winter is located, or Yuhinlahti (connecting the bay).

Vuorio, Tarulinna (Mountainous area, fairytale fortress)(61°39"8"N 30°41"3"E)

The village of Vuorio is located on the high shore of the Ladoga Bay of Yukhinlahti (“connecting”), surrounded by mountains composed of hardened volcanic lavas. In the spring of 1917, the family of the famous artist and thinker Nicholas Konstantinovich Roerich lived here. The artist liked the very word Yuhinlakhti, which was consonant with the idea of ​​world unity. In a letter to A. Benois in July 1917, N. Roerich noted: “Remember that I live on Yukhinlahti, and in translation: on the Bay of Unity. The very place of residence reminds of what is needed to save the culture, to save the heart of the people. N. Roerich created three paintings at the Relander estate - "Yukhinlakhti", "Yukhinniemi" and "Foggy Morning", conveying the artist's enthusiastic impression of a new meeting with Karelian nature. Here N. Roerich wrote the article "Unity", in which he expressed his thoughts and feelings on the events taking place in Russia.

And here is Niemelyanhovi, where the estate is now being restored and a recreation center has been created in the format of a Finnish town. Here, for example, the village of Reuskula, located on the northwestern shore of Lake Akhvenyarvi (“perch”), from which the Neva stream flows towards Ladoga, the name of which is translated from Finno-Ugric as “bog, bog”. In the vicinity of the village of Reuskula, among quiet forest lakes and dense forests, high cliffs lurk, which have experienced strong earthquakes in the past. Steep slopes of rocks, huge blocks of stones falling from above with “caves” between them, all this reminds of the once active geological life of these places (“Karelian Ladoga”). The next big stop will be the city of Lahdenpokhya (“end of the bay”). I wrote about the Lakhdenpokhya area

Lumivaara-Vyatikkya

Then we will turn off the main road and go to the village of Lumivaara (“snow mountain”), where we will visit one of the most beautiful of the more or less preserved churches. On this road, rally competitions are held every year.

After Lumivaara, leaving the main road and moving towards Kurkijoki, literally after a few kilometers we will again turn towards Lake Ladoga to a place called Vyattika. Having reached the barrier and leaving the car, we set off on foot for a 15-minute walk along the path of Koyonsaari Island, leading to a magnificent beach and a great place for camping. If time and weather allow, then there is no better place for sunbathing and water bathing. Continuing the journey, after a while we find ourselves in the Kurkijoki area. I have already written about this area.

Hiitola-Kulikovo

Just yesterday (November 1, 2013) a new road was opened, which excluded two settlements, Khiitola and Kulikovo, from the main road. Kulikovo used to be also called Hiytola. The settlement got its name after the Karelian god Hiisi, the patron saint of hunting. Hiisi, as the Karelians believed, could take the form of an elk or a deer. He lived in the mountains near the villages and guarded the locals from strangers. When strangers approached, Hiishi would make fog and throw stones at the strangers, trying to lead them astray. At the exit from present-day Hiitol, a forest path departs from the highway to the left, which after 300 m leads to the beautiful Sahakoski Rapids on the Hiitolanjoki River. At the beginning of the 20th century, a hydroelectric power station worked here. From Hiitola railway station, where Finnish architecture is still preserved, a dirt road leads west towards Tounan, Rintala and Ilme. In 1323, the first border between Russia and Sweden passed through Ilme. Further, 20 kilometers of serpentine await us until Priozersk itself, and thank God if some “slow” car does not drive in front of you, there will be a continuous marking line for 12 kilometers.

Priozersk, Korela Fortress

So, Priozersk. You can see a brief history. But the legend about the construction of the fortress "Korela" and the founding of the city, described in the book "Karelian Ladoga Region", I will tell you. “The pagan Karelians did not have fortified cities on their land for a long time. Swedish knights often attacked them from the west, and in the east they had to defend themselves from Russian warriors. Karelians worshiped their gods and did not want to accept the Christian faith. They decided to find a suitable island among the stormy, rapids of Vuoksa and surround it with a powerful fortress wall - then there would be no need to worship either the Swedes or the Russians. The large island of Tiuris near the Tiversky rapids seemed the most suitable for this purpose. People tied boats to willows and began to build a fortress. They dragged huge boulders and folded them into powerful walls along the edge of the island. But the work did not go well - the stones rolled into the river, the walls built during the day collapsed. Between the builders there were disagreements and disputes over trifles. Finally, the leader of the Karelians heard a voice from heaven in a dream, announcing that the work at this place was not pleasing to the gods. The voice said that it was necessary to swim with the Vuoksa until people heard the cuckoo call and saw her sitting on a dry bough. That's where the fort should be. That's what the builders did. For a long time they had to swim along the river. A cuckoo called several times, but no one saw it among the dense foliage. The lapping of the Ladoga wave was already noticeable when the Karelians stopped to rest on the last island of the river, tying the boat to a dry tree standing on the shore. “Ku-ku!” came suddenly from the top of this tree. In the dusk of the white night, the builders were able to see a bird that was sitting on a dry tree, half-burned by a thunderstorm. The Karelians were delighted and began to build a stone fortress on this island. The strait where the builders stopped has since been called Käkisalmi – “Cuckoo Strait”. That was the name of the settlement itself. ”(“ Karelian Ladoga Region ”).

Bay Vladimirskaya.

Our next stop will be Konevets Island, but it is difficult to get there by car, so we will combine the journey along the shore of Lake Ladoga with a short boat trip from Vladimirovskaya Bay. You can get to the bay by different roads, you can, for example, immediately after Priozersk turn towards Zaostrovye, drive through Motornoe.

Mustaniemi (black cape) (60°58"7.6"N, 30°19"37.52"E) is the eastern entrance cape of Mustalahti Bay. The cape is low, covered with forest and bordered by a sand and pebble beach dotted with boulders. Motornoye bay and settlement, formerly Vuohensalo (goat wilderness) was once the "fish capital" and was part of the suburbs of Käkisalmi. In 1933, in the village of Vuohensalo, they began to grow fry of salmon-like fish - Arctic char and whitefish, as well as a small amount of European grayling.

You can also drive to Vladimirskaya Bay through Plodovoye, Melnichnye ruchi, Sukhodolie, Solovyevo or Gromovo.

Konevets Island

Perhaps because I came to the island of Konevets when there were no tourists on the island, but I really liked walking along the paths of the island. Now about the name and history of this place. It is called so in honor of the horse-stone, the pagan place of worship of the Korels and Finns, who annually sacrificed a horse. And the boulder itself resembles the muzzle of a horse. This island is a bright representative of coexistence on the same island of creators (monks) and destroyers (military). In the north of the island there is a destroyed base, flooded radioactive ships, and in the south - the Monastery. Now a little information about the Monastery, which was founded at the end of the 14th century by the Monk Arseny Konevsky from Novgorod the Great. In 1398, a church was founded in the name of the Nativity of the Virgin, located on the banks of Ladoga. However, already in 1421, due to a flood, Arseniy transferred the monastery to a higher place, where it remains to this day. Twice, in 1577 and 1610, the Swedes captured the island. After the devastation in 1610, the island of Konevets was under Swedish rule until the end of the Northern War, the cathedral was practically destroyed. The buildings that have survived today were built mainly in the 19th and early 20th centuries. At this time, and account for the heyday of the monastery. Emperor Alexander II with his family and retinue, writers Leskov, A. Dumas, F. Tyutchev and Nemirovich-Danchenko came here. During the coup of 1917, the monastery was not damaged, as it ended up on the territory that gained the independence of Finland. Before the Soviet-Finnish war, the headquarters (in a stone hotel) and two coastal artillery batteries of the Finnish army were located on the island. With the beginning of the war, some of the utensils were taken out, but most of them remained - the iconostases and bells of all churches, except for the bells of the Kazan Skete. In 1941, when the island again became part of Finland, some of the monks again arrived on the island, trying to revive the monastic life. All the churches, except Nikolsky, were completely ruined by that time. On August 19, 1944, the last of the brethren left the island forever, which had gone to the Soviet Union. After a period of wandering, 32 Konev monks settled in the Hnekka estate in the Keitele commune, where the monastery existed until 1956. On August 31, 1956, the nine surviving monks moved to the New Valaam Monastery in Papinniemi, taking with them the miraculous Konev Icon. Now the Monastery has come to life, thanks to the influx of believers and just tourists.

Vuoksa

Let's return to the "big" land and the track. In a few kilometers there will be the settlement of Losevo-Varshko. Previously, these places were called Kiviniemi (stone cape). Passing the bridge, you involuntarily look at the beautiful rapids of Vuoksa, but this was not always the case. Lake Suvantojärvi (Suhodolskoye) in the 18th century was deeper than it is now, and water from it flowed to Vuoksu along a channel through the Kiviniem isthmus, i.e. in the opposite direction than now. The narrow kilometer isthmus of Taipale separated the lake from Ladoga. They tried to cut this lintel with a canal in 1741, but the work was not completed. In the spring of 1818, the level of Lake Suvantojärvi rose sharply and the underdug canal in Taipal was quickly eroded by large water. On the last night of the waters of Suvantojärvi breaking into Ladoga, the inhabitants of the surrounding villages heard an unimaginable noise and the sound of boulders. In the village of Taipale (Solovyevo), a residential building with outbuildings, an Orthodox chapel, and a plot of arable land were washed away. As a result of the breakthrough, the water level in Suvantojärvi immediately dropped by 7.5 m. The stream that flowed over the Kiviniemi Isthmus dried up. At the bottom of the southeastern part of Suvantojärvi, the Taipa-lenjoki River began to form, flowing into Ladoga. A drained strip of the lake bottom turned out to be on the day surface, in places reaching a width of two kilometers. Local peasants received additionally fertile lands, on which arable land eventually appeared. Rapids formed in the bed of the Taipale River, which kept the water level in Suvantojärvi slightly higher than the modern one. (“Karelian Ladoga Region”)

Pyatirechye, Cape Igolkaniemi

Further through Sosnovo and Zaporozhye to Pyatirechye, to sandy beaches. Once it was possible to get to Zaporozhye through Solovyevo, there is a ferry there, but you can’t guess how it works now. Igolkanniemi (Needle Cape) and the island of Igolkansaari. Academician Nikolai Yakovlevich Ozeretskovsky visited here in 1785, who later published his famous book “Journey through Lakes Ladoga and Onega” (St. Petersburg, 1792). Here is his short description of this area - "a cape called Needle, against which lies a small island, overgrown with a small forest," now this cape is called Reznaya (60 ° 35 "40.43" N, 30 ° 36 "5.45" E) and is the southern entrance cape of the Taipalovsky Gulf. The cape is low, sandy and devoid of vegetation. To the south and southwest of the cape, the shore is bordered by thickets of reeds. A rocky shoal extends two and a half kilometers northeast of Cape Reznoy. Needle Island, now Uzkiy, is located 400 meters north of Cape Reznoy. The island is low, rocky and overgrown with shrubs.

n.im. Morozova

Let the last points be exactly Lake Ladoga (settlement) and the village named after Morozov. The first on the road will be Lake Ladoga, where there is the Road of Life museum and the Broken Ring monument. The legendary place where the road was laid, as thin as a hair, the hair on which life was kept in besieged Leningrad. The last point of our route will be the village named after Morozov, a quiet, beautiful, cozy, green village, from the bay of which the Oreshek fortress is visible, that is, the beginning of our route. This is where our journey ended. I hope that you want to see something, somewhere to call. Beautiful and interesting places nearby, you just have to take your time.

Osinovetsky lighthouse is a real attraction of the Ladoga coast. It rises above a wonderful beach with clean soft sand, decorating the surrounding landscapes with its appearance.

This is the case when hot weather is not required for a trip to the beach. Cool wind from Ladoga, relative privacy and tranquility create the perfect mood for exploring the lighthouse.

Therefore, today I will be happy to tell you about our little trip to the Osinovetsky lighthouse, and show you wonderful, almost seascapes.

First, I would like to say that this area has its own history, which has absorbed not only serene sunny everyday life.

Memory

How memorable is this place?

The fact is that it was here during the years of the blockade of Leningrad that there was the only “gap” in the blockade ring at that time, through which food and equipment were supplied to the city, and civilians were evacuated.

On the banks of Ladoga there are monuments and memorials reminiscent of those difficult times.

Near the village of Kokkorevo, where an ice crossing was established in November 1941 and from where the first horse and sledge convoy set off, the Broken Ring memorial was erected above Vaganovsky Spusk.

This time I didn't photograph it, but we were here 4 years ago. The photo was taken in the summer of 2012.

Approximately in the middle between the lighthouse and the Ladoga Lake railway station is the Road of Life Museum.

Four years ago it was a small wooden building that looked very modest. Now the museum is a completely different sight - a modern white building with a fenced area. We have not been to the renovated museum yet, but we will definitely fix this. But the old museum was visited with great pleasure and interest.

The photo is also from four years ago.

Unfortunately, there are very few photographs from there. But when we visit the new museum, I will dedicate a separate article to it.

In the meantime, back to the lighthouse and Ladoga landscapes.

The Osinovetsky lighthouse is located in the village of Lake Ladoga, which was formerly called Osinovets. Many, according to old memory, still call it that.

The lighthouse was laid in 1905, but the construction was delayed and completed only five years later. The ruined contractor, who won the tender, left the work unfinished, and the water transport department of the Russian Empire had to complete the work.

The complex and unpredictable waters of Ladoga, strong winds and dangerous reefs in the coastal zone have destroyed more than one hundred ships, so the need for a lighthouse in these places, in order to somehow facilitate navigation, was obvious.

During the war years, even before the construction of the ice road near Kokkorevo, barges with food were first moored at the foot of the Osinovetsky lighthouse, although the coast here was always considered dangerous and unsuitable for a pier. Now only a stone embankment that goes into the lake reminds of that military port.

The height of the lighthouse from sea level to the fire is 74 meters, and the light of the searchlight is visible for 40 kilometers. He continues to show the way to sailors to this day.

Previously, caretakers had to climb a 366-step spiral staircase every day to light the fire, but now the 500-watt lamp is automated. In the evening, the light cuts through the ensuing darkness and fades at dawn.

According to the Internet, the entrance to the lighthouse is closed for passers-by, and a rather impressive area around the building is surrounded by a fence. I know that the most purposeful managed to negotiate with the caretaker to get inside the lighthouse and climb to the very top, but it is not known whether it is rolling now.

Beach

At the foot of the lighthouse there is a small but quite cozy beach. It seems that it is not so far from the city, but it really surprises with its well-groomed and cleanliness.

As soon as we drove up and our child saw the sandy expanses, it turned out to be unrealistic to get him out of there. Therefore, we spent most of the walk walking along the sand, climbing the coastal stones and splashing on the water.

Despite the cool wind, the sun warmed up perfectly, and I really did not want to leave.

What I liked the most was that the beach was quite uncrowded. Perhaps in the summer there is nowhere for an apple to fall, but we found it almost empty.

In the middle of the beach there is something like a decorative fireplace - a hearth surrounded by benches, however, without fire. It was occupied by a group of Chinese tourists who dispersed quickly and noisily along the beach, then just as quickly assembled and left.

Nearby is the recreation center "Osinovetsky Mayak". Perhaps, thanks to this, the beach is in excellent condition.

There are toilets in front of the entrance, next to the parking lot, and on the beach itself there is a playground, a cafe, and picnic pavilions. A wooden pavement is laid across the sand, which for me is just happiness. You can shake off the sand and walk off the beach like a white man - in shoes, without the risk of scooping again.

It's really nice to spend time with your family here - calm, beautiful, clean. Anyway, now.

Recreation center

Interesting in itself and the territory of the base.

It is stylized as an old fishing village: white houses, anchors everywhere, antique lanterns, wooden signs ... I don’t know how things are with accommodation and service, but it’s nice to walk there even for purely aesthetic pleasure.

How to get to Osinovetsky lighthouse

By train, you can get to the Osinovetsky lighthouse from St. Petersburg from the Finland Station. You go to the Ladoga Lake station, which is the final one on this branch, and then go one and a half kilometers in the opposite direction. The lighthouse is visible from afar, do not pass by

By car, you need to go along the Road of Life highway, and then along the Irinovsky highway to the shore of Ladoga. In this place you will see the Broken Ring memorial. Here you need to turn left and drive along the lake. After 4.5 km you will see the exit to the right and the sign "Recreation center" Osinovetsky lighthouse ".

The high fence along which you have to drive is the one that encloses the territory of the lighthouse. The road is in fairly good condition, there are signs everywhere, so there should be no problems finding the right place.

Irinovsky oak

And there is another unusual monument on the Road of Life, which has nothing to do with the blockade. This is an old oak, which is located near the village of Irinovka.

The gravel path leads to it for a reason. In 2013, within the framework of the All-Russian program "Trees - monuments of wildlife", he received the status of a monument.

Local residents claim that the oak is 250 years old and Kutuzov himself liked to walk under it. But experts who examined the tree counted "only" 184 years. This number is on the information plate.

Residents, of course, are unhappy with such a conclusion, which seems to have reduced the value of the oak and excluded the connection with Kutuzov. After all, it turns out that the tree was planted after the death of the commander.

In addition to the Irinovsky oak in the Leningrad region, there is only one more tree-monument approved under this program - an elm in the village of Merevo.

That, perhaps, is all for today. I hope it was interesting