The shortest way to santiago. How I spent a year preparing for the Camino de Santiago. Where to sleep for pilgrims

October 2013

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"One day the Path will call you! It will open for you with new hope, new meaning, new life. It is up to you to answer this call. But it is unlikely that you will be able to drown it out."

These words are dedicated Ways of Santiago, the main part of which runs through the north of Spain. Who read "The Magician's Diary" Paulo Coelho is about him. I, too, once read and forgot. And I certainly did not expect that one day the Path would call me. How it happened, I told. In this post - practical information and my impressions. So, let's begin.

The path passes among fields, pastures, crosses villages and small towns, climbs mountains, crosses rivers and wanders in forests.

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But still, you mostly go to inhabited places. And eat figs (fresh figs), apples and grapes straight from the bush. Inhale the rustic aromas...

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Orientation is easy. Sign of the Way - yellow arrows that always catch the eye in time. They are painted on stones, on trees, on the walls of houses, on pavements. You can lull vigilance and just go.

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Each kilometer is measured by stone pillars and reported how much is left to the final goal.

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Hostels for pilgrims are called Alberge. They are public and private. The first, the cheapest, cost 6 euros per night. Usually this is a large room with a couple of dozen bunk beds + a kitchen and showers. Disposable underwear is issued, there are no blankets - everyone travels with sleeping bags. Lights out at 10 pm. At night, the dormitories are filled with snoring and the smell of people walking long distances. But you do not notice this anymore, because you are tired and sleep soundly. At 7 am, the pilgrims begin to wake up. Some leave before dawn.

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More comfortable conditions in private albergues for 9-12 euros. The same bunk beds, but in much smaller numbers and with good linens. For 20-30 euros per person you can stay in a comfortable double room.

The classic Way of Santiago (the so-called French Way) is 800 kilometers from the French town Saint Jean, through the Pyrenees and further north of Spain to the city Santiago de Compostella. Many go more + 88 km to Finisterre- "End of the Earth". Europe ends there and the Atlantic Ocean begins.

A special chic is to start a pilgrimage from your home. We met a man who was going to Santiago from Paris and going the same way back. But that's more! One Russian grandfather of 72 years old began his journey to Santiago from Red Square! Went 6 months.

Based on the fact that we had 7 days at our disposal, we decided to go the final 156 km. This part of the Path passes through Galicia (the northwestern region of Spain). My companion has never walked so much, especially with a backpack. So we didn't go fast. But we soon realized that we wanted to come to Santiago a day early in order to be in time for a special celebratory mass. That is, you need to walk at least 25 kilometers a day ...

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But we didn’t really count the kilometers, but just walked, knowing that in any case we would get to the right place at the right time. In general, if you suddenly do not have time on time, or, for example, you get sick, you can always drive by bus. This opportunity relieves the stress of "we won't make it in time!". You can relax and just go as you go.

Of course, buses are already an extreme case. But people use the service of transporting things more often. At first we were surprised to meet travelers with small backpacks, until we saw an ad - "Delivery of backpacks from point A to point B by taxi. Cost 3 euros."

Looking ahead, I’ll say that after all, we covered all the kilometers on time, brought the backpacks ourselves and managed to attend Mass. And here's how we did it - I'll tell you later. There was no mysticism.

Weather. We were warned that doing the Santiago Way at the end of October is not a good idea, because it is already the rainy season, which in the north of Spain pour almost non-stop from October to March. But we were lucky. It was for this week that the rains receded and gave us sunny days of "Indian summer".

The rain only teased us: it seemed to start, but as soon as we put on our rubber raincoats, it stopped. And we, in such an outfit, could not look at each other calmly - we laughed so much that it was even impossible to walk!

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The real rain started when we were already in Santiago. And we realized how lucky we were. It would be very difficult to walk in such incessant rain. We wouldn't have passed. But the Way was merciful to us.

The traditional time for passing the Way of Santiago is from May to September. The busiest month is August. In Spain, this is a month of holidays, and the Way of Santiago is a popular route. We were glad that we were in the "low" season, when there are fewer pilgrims. Yes, and in the summer heat it would not be as pleasant to go as in the autumn coolness.

We were told that we must go in trekking shoes. As a result, my friend walked all 156 km in ordinary sneakers, and I generally wore city shoes. But in the rain it would not work for us.

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One of the main pleasures of the Way is the local food. The so-called complex "Pilgrim's Menu" costs 9-10 euros and includes a choice of several first, second courses and desserts. Meals are served with a bottle of local wine and a cup of delicious homemade bread. It feels like portions are designed for men walking 40 km a day. I really liked the "home cafes" where the locals feed the pilgrims right in their homes.

From time to time in our plates were octopuses- a traditional dish from the north of Spain:

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If you do not eat meat, but eat fish, seafood and eggs, you will be fed. But it will be more difficult for full vegetarians - you will have to buy food in stores and cook it yourself. Those who are short of money do the same: instead of spending 10 euros in a cafe, they cook pasta for themselves.

In general, some fundamentally walk the Way "like real pilgrims" - they do not use the "benefits of civilization": hostels and cafes. But at the same time, they still sleep in modern tents and carry good backpacks.

But this pilgrim bought a donkey at the beginning of the journey, collecting 300 euros by playing a flute in the street. But the donkey turned out to be old, walking slowly and no more than 20 kilometers a day.

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Lie down to rest.

Budget. Overnight stay 6 EUR + lunch 10 EUR + dinner 10 EUR + breakfast 4 EUR + coffee/tea on the road 2 EUR = 32 euros per day. You can meet 15 by buying food in stores.

Special physical training is not required. At first it will be difficult, on the second day everything will start to hurt. It will hurt for a couple of days - and the body will enter a new mode. Unless, of course, he is not mocked for 40 kilometers every day.

There are very old people and schoolchildren. There are whole families passing the Way on bicycles. And once we saw a woman briskly walking on crutches! There is also the necessary infrastructure for wheelchair users.

"The Pilgrims' Walk". It must be felt. When, finally, he reached the place of rest, he sat down at the table, ate, but you get up as if you had been riding a horse very hard for a day. And it takes time to get the legs together. But "their" can be seen immediately!

What to take with you.

1. Convenient backpack.
2. Sleeping bag.
3. Raincoat.
4. Waterproof boots in case of rain/mud.
5. Light comfortable shoes.
6. Flip flops (to walk in Albergue).
7. Clothing sets are lighter and warmer.
If you cook by yourself, it is better to take a mug, a cup, a spoon and a knife, because the kitchens in the hostels do not always have all this (but you will definitely find a pan).
8. Lots of plaster. Corns are one of the essential attributes of the Path. Therefore, the traditional advice is to go in already well-worn shoes.
9. Well, the rest: first aid kit, towel, hygiene items.
10. Important: cash (cards are accepted only in more or less large cities).

Sticks for walking. Controversial question. Many older people go with them. In general, according to tradition, you need to buy a wooden staff at the beginning of the Path (ideally, find it in the forest), walk the entire Path with it and take it home as a memory. I walked without him, although sometimes by the end of the day I wanted to lean on something uphill.

The opinion of tourists may not coincide with the opinion of the editors.

From September 30 to October 6, 2013, I did a 200+ km solo hike along the so-called Coastal Route from the city of Porto, Portugal (Porto) to Santiago de Compostela, Spain (Santiago de Compostela).

I want to start a series of posts with the basics of the basics. My route and equipment. Perhaps this is the foundation of any trip or hike.

Route

I struggled for a long time which route to take. There were few options, since I was limited in time and simply would not have had time to go through the classic French route of 700 km. In view of this, three working options were considered.

1) Spanish Leon (Leon) - Santiago de Compostela (part of the classic French route).
The downside of this path was the risk of getting monotonous views of the village and the city throughout the entire route, yet you only have to go through Spain and a relatively short distance (for a radical change in landscape). Within 200 km, it is unlikely that much will change. But these are just my assumptions on which I based. Plus, this path is quite “hyped”, which is accompanied by crowds of pilgrims. And I wanted peace and solitude. However, these “trodden” paths are provided with lodging and other amenities specifically for pilgrims, which is a plus for the traveler.

2) Porto (Portugal) - Santiago de Compostela, but the continental "trodden" path, vertically upwards.
Here the risks under consideration are essentially identical to point #1.

3) Porto (Portugal) - Santiago de Compostela, coastal path, skirting the coastline.
Ocean views. The absence of "colleagues in the shop." It seems to be all that is needed. The risk was one and the most significant - this path is very poorly described on the Internet and one could not count on accommodation for the pilgrims and other amenities at all. Actually I will try to eliminate this nonsense with a series of upcoming publications in this blog.

Having chosen this particular path, I was ready for the fact that for several days I would have to spend the night anywhere, perhaps even on the street. So when collecting equipment, I proceeded from a hypothetically brutal scenario.

Equipment

While preparing the crew, I realized that all this would have to be carried in very unknown conditions for about 7-10 days. We also managed to find information on the network that, as a rule, tourists from Russia take everything with them for all occasions and ultimately regret it very much. Conclusion: it is necessary to take “on the hump” only the vital and most universal.

My shortlist of equipment on the way to Santiago de Compostela turned out like this:

• good backpack with hard back (QUECHUA Symbium 60 Easyfit);
• sleeping bag (taking into account the fact that you may have to sleep outside at 5-10 ° C;
• roll;
• folding staff (x2);
• light but strong boots (TECNICA Starcross IV);

• cap/hat with sides;
• sunglasses;
• 1 thermal T-shirt;
• rain cape (aka windbreaker);
• pants with a bunch of pockets (if possible, transforming into shorts);
• swimming trunks/shorts;
• several pairs of socks;

• Swiss knife;
• fotik + charging (terribly heavy little thing, but could not refuse);
• two small water bottles (or one small flask);
• phone (aka flashlight/compass/GPS (iOS: MapsWithMe, CoPilot, Galilio, CityMaps2Go));
• 14400mAh Ankor battery or about 8 full iPhone 5 charges on the go when outlets are not available;
• lighter;

• patches for corns/cuts;
• bandage elastic and medical;
• sunscreen (you can burn easily);
• dental floss, tooth brush, tooth paste, soap;
• thin and light towel (like Nabaiji);
• napkins (they are also so-called paper / paper / handkerchief, etc.);

• passport, credit card, some cash;
• pilgrim's passport (with it in some places a discount, you can use it to get a certificate of passage); a passport can be obtained both at the relevant institutions / churches and by filling out an online form, in which case it will be delivered to you by mail home;
• driver's license (just in case).

With equipment, the calculation was 90% correct. The weight of the equipment together with the backpack was about 7 kg (about 2 kg of which is a backpack).

What did I miss and what should I correct next time?

1) The boots are definitely wrong. My boots are designed for brutal hiking, but not for long transitions on different types of roads. You need to take waterproof lightweight sneakers with a powerful sole, but a low side, with good cushioning. Something like Salomon Fast Hiking or Outdoor Multifunction.

2) We need to think more carefully about the issue of corns. Sculpt plasters immediately on places with the greatest friction, without waiting for the first signs to appear. Then it's too late. And this, at the end of the journey, spoiled my mood in order and delivered a lot of unpleasant sensations.

3) The choice of socks should also be treated carefully. Just sports, hiking or hiking socks with thermal insulation are not enough. You need special anti-corn socks. Feel carefully so that the socks do not have wrinkles, seams in inappropriate places, etc.

4) A sleeping bag, if you have GPS or an accurate understanding of where you are going, you are unlikely to need it. Never had to sleep under the open sky.

• “I advise you to start and end the day transition with a warm-up, even if it is simple gymnastics or yoga. It is very good to massage your feet and lower legs, especially in the evening, after the transition.” You can make compresses on your feet, wrap them in a damp towel. Raise up for 15 minutes or just put your feet at night to lift them a little and relieve swelling.
• Do not forget to pay attention to the spine and back muscles, stretch, etc.
• Most likely, you will want to eat very little during the journey, so there is no point in dragging sausage with you. The first couple of days I practically did not eat, only in the evening and a light snack in the morning, but I wanted to drink water often. Without water, sometimes it is really stressful.
• If you are unfamiliar with the path, collect the coordinates of several hotels located approximately on your path. It will not be worse.
• Write down the contacts of the emergency services (112) and the contacts of your embassy.
• Basic phrases in the language of the host country will also not interfere with you, both for simple communication / explanation, and for emergency situations, so that you can quickly orient / explain yourself. Please note that both in Portugal and in Spain English is spoken very, very poorly. Even on a banal level.
• To find a companion(s) or get additional tips, you can use the forums on the net or download applications for iOS/Android. Surprisingly, the people there are responsive and quite sociable.
• If you are limited in time and want to complete the path in a short time, do not follow the signs (shell) all the time, but alternate using the shortest path according to the GPS and the real path according to the signs. Shells will not always lead you through landscapes and almost never along the shortest path to Santiago.
• It is better to plan the way back approximately and take tickets upon arrival in Santiago. On the road, everything can change, do not become hostages of exact dates and times, so as not to spoil your Path.

To be continued.

"One day the Path will call you! It will open for you with new hope, new meaning, new life. It is up to you to answer this call. But it is unlikely that you will be able to drown it out."

These words are dedicated Ways of Santiago, the main part of which runs through the north of Spain. Who read "The Magician's Diary" Paulo Coelho is about him. I, too, once read and forgot. And I certainly did not expect that one day the Path would call me. How it happened, I told. In this post - practical information and my impressions. So, let's begin.

Lie down to rest.

The world is full of mysteries, surprises and coincidences. I believe that when the time comes for something, it will be difficult to miss it, unless, of course, you are open to the world and try to live consciously. I traveled a lot and never heard about the Way of St. James in my life. It is now only the lazy who has not yet gone to the Camino de Santiago, and when I was going, there was very little information. Well, the more interesting it was to live.

Everything happened unexpectedly: on a plane flying to, I accidentally chose the channel with the film "The Way", then I re-read Paolo Coelho's book "The Diary of a Magician", then I began to meet people who talked about the Way. And finally, the puzzle came together, and I decided that since the universe sent me all these hints, now it's up to me.

I began to study the issue and slowly plunged into a new real adventure.

I walked 800 kilometers in 27 days, and my Path turned out to be special. I started it in one state, normal, with a desire to realize my capabilities, disconnect from the world and think about life, and ended up in the company of a new emerging life, which found itself unexpectedly after meetings with storks that my camera saw, my eyes and no one else . By the way, this new life has recently turned 2 years old.

On the Path, the mystic lies in wait at every step, and it is not known what surprise awaits each of you!
However, despite the news revealed to me on the road, I still went my way to the end.

I saw a magic censer in, reached the edge of Europe (Cape Finisterra), where, according to the rules of the pilgrim, I burned my T-shirt, and then I got to Mushia - a remote amazing place where Jacob's path ended, but a new life was just beginning.

So, Camino de Santiago or the Way of St. James, the road to Santiago de Compostela - what is it and how to get through it.

What it is

The Way of St. James is a pilgrimage route, originally religious. But today it is not at all necessary to be a churchman or even a believer in order to go along this route. One can be a Christian, a Catholic, a Buddhist, a Hare Krishna, a Hindu, an atheist - there are no restrictions for the Path, and everyone is given the opportunity to go through it.

People go to understand themselves, to find themselves, to resolve what could not be resolved, to forgive, to forget, to know. There are as many targets as there are pilgrims.

The path may start at many points, but ends in Spanish Galicia.
Pilgrims, namely this word is closest to me, go their way in different ways. Someone prefers company, someone wants to be alone. You can walk 10 kilometers a day, you can walk 50. You can walk, you can ride a bike. There are many routes, and everyone can choose the one that is closer to him, more convenient, clearer. Below I will talk about what Paths are, and to make it easier to navigate, I will attach a route map.

And be sure to learn the phrase Buen Camino("good trip") - this is how it is customary to say goodbye to comrades on the Camino.

When to go

Since we are talking about Europe, it is best to pass the Camino from spring to autumn. Summer can be hot in some places, so it is preferable to travel in May-June or August-September. This is just a general recommendation, it all depends on the specific capabilities of a particular person.

And, if there are options to pass the Camino in October or July, or not pass at all, then, of course, it is better to choose October or July.

Way options

How to choose the right path? There is no answer to this question. Remember that you can start the path at any point and end it at any point.

Here are the main options:

• The French Way / Camino Frances (orange color on the map)- Ronsenval - Santiago (739 kilometers);
• "Northern Way" / Camino Del Norte or Camino de la Costa (blue)- Irun - Santiago (830 kilometers);
• "Portuguese Way" / Camino Portugues (green) - Tui - Santiago (116 kilometers);
• "Silver Way" / Via de la plata (marsh) - - Santiago (810 kilometers);
• The English Way / Camino Ingles (blue) - Ferol - Santiago (112 kilometers).

Some of the paths intersect or merge into one another. For example, when walking along the “Northern Way”, at some point you face a choice: continue along the coast or turn onto the old Camino Primitivo road.

I think you shouldn't get hung up on this as you approach intersections. The path itself will tell you where to go, and the decision will be made.

It should be borne in mind that the distances are very arbitrary, since throughout the entire route you will pass along the path, then you will bypass the obstacle along the road, then turn to some interesting observation deck or a deserted beach. Even in guidebooks in different languages, the distances diverged. In the end, it does not matter how many kilometers exactly you will walk, it is important with what thoughts and whether it will be done with a pure heart.

I chose the "Northern Way" for a number of reasons:

• firstly, it was convenient for me to start from ;
• secondly, I liked the idea of ​​walking along the sea;
• thirdly, I was pleased that this path is less popular and therefore less crowded than the "French" one.

Nevertheless, any path is good, and for a month on the road I met pilgrims who went to the “Portuguese Camino”, and “English”, and “Silver”.

Facilities

Today, the Camino is no longer the one that the pilgrims walked on in the last century. Like any popular route, it has acquired the achievements of civilization. For example, in the lost forests, you can find announcements on trees about the delivery of luggage. I must say, this function is convenient, because both old people and sick people go to Camino. Using this option, you can carry a minimum of things on yourself, and everything you need for money will be brought to you by a car right in the alberg.

In addition, today Camino is not 100% "walking". In some places you have to use transport. In my case, I resorted to transport twice:

• boat. Often, to get from one city to another, you have to cross a river or a bay. Since we have not yet learned to walk on water, we have to use a boat. Usually it is 10-20 minutes. And Camino admits it.
• in one of the towns of the "Northern Way" it was necessary to make a decision - to cross the river by train (3 minutes) or go around (6 hours). Of course, everyone leaned towards the first option, and this is also acceptable.

In other words, each pilgrim is the creator of his own Camino.

Health

Anything can happen on the road, so be sure to have a small first aid kit with you. Of course, there are pharmacies (farmacias) in large cities, but in small villages, along which the path runs mainly, this can be a problem.

My advice is to take out travel insurance with coverage of 30,000 or 50,000 EUR. Of course, we often forget that we are mortal and think that nothing will happen to us, but the affordable 20-30 EUR insurance premium will protect against accidents. If a minor injury is received along the way, then it is easier to resolve the issue yourself, and if the situation is serious, then all the advantages of insurance will be appreciated by you.

Let's hope that nothing critical happens, but the warned is protected.

A frequent occurrence on the way is corns. Everyone, probably, has in his life experience a way to deal with this ailment inappropriate on the road. I met the French, who cured my corn in the evening, threading a thread through it with a needle and leaving the thread in my leg. I was skeptical at first, but when the next morning I was ready to gallop like a doe, I believed in the miraculous and, according to them, the ancient way to help pedestrians.

Where to live

Pilgrims live in an alberg - this is an analogue of a hostel, where they give shelter to a wanderer. Typically, municipal albergues cost from 3 to 6 EUR, and some have a box where you drop your donation. For these 3-6 EUR you get a bed, a hot shower, most often a kitchen with dishes, sometimes a blanket and a pillow cover and a good company. Rooms can be for 4 people in new albergues, or they can be for 30.

In the high season, it is worth leaving early to be sure that the overnight stay is provided. You can't book in advance, and that's understandable. The one who came first gets a bunk.

In the low season, another problem is that part of the albergue may still be closed. Therefore, leaving the place of today's halt, I always found out from the workers how things were going with the Albergue further. Often they recommended places that were definitely open, and this gave hope.

If you came to an alberga, but there were no places, or you got tired of the company while sleeping, you can stay in private albergas (from 8 EUR) or even in hotels (from 25 EUR). I stayed at the hotel twice in a month to take a break from the team.

On some routes, pilgrims are provided with lodging for the night by fire stations, in particular, this is a common practice on the "Portuguese Way".

Both municipal albergues and private ones are very clean and comfortable. In addition, volunteer hosts - most often very pleasant people - help with advice, treat you with cookies and share information about where to go next, where to sleep and what to see. I especially remember the albergue within the walls of the ancient monastery in Sobrado, where, in fact, the storks announced the good news to me.

The gates of the monastery slammed at 19:00, and you were left alone with your thoughts and the ancient history of the place.

Another albergue, which is firmly imprinted in my memory, is located in the small village of Guemes. The process is led by the colorful father Ernesto in a poncho - a man of a wide soul with a big heart. Everything is done with love there, and travelers are always waiting for a comfortable bed and a delicious dinner.

And in addition to hospitality and comfort, there are washing machines and dryers, which are very handy on the way.

What is

Food is an important part of any journey, especially a long walk. As I have already noted, most albergues have a kitchen, so you can cook here.

Pilgrims use pasta and salads with canned fish, vegetables and fruits, which can be bought at the store.

There are excellent stands in supermarkets, where for 1 EUR they offer a large selection of cold cuts, which, combined with inexpensive and crispy Spanish bread, is a complete meal replacement. I brought bags of instant porridge with fruit with me and happily had them for breakfast in any alberg. If you wish, you can eat in restaurants, but there are a few points:

1. A set lunch usually costs 7-10 EUR, which can significantly increase the cost of a trip, especially a long one.
2. In big cities there are no problems with restaurants, but in small towns there is most often one bar that opens in the evening, and they have not heard what soup is. On my way, the weather was often harsh, and I really wanted soup, but because of the rather limited assortment of eateries on the way, I had to be content with rolls and tea.
3. From pleasant - tapas snacks (tapas) are common in Spain. If you buy tea, beer, a roll, then most often there will be a snack dish on the counter, and you can grab a piece of salami or a pickled egg on a toothpick.
4. Be vigilant on the weekend. Once I got burned, I was very sensitive to this issue until the end of the journey. It is in Russia that everything works 24 hours, in Spain everything is closed on the weekend, and in some medium-sized towns I could not find a single working supermarket. Therefore, feeling that the weekend was on the nose, I bought more pasta, fruits, rolls, to know that I was protected from hunger.

The good news is that the Path is both individual and collective. You will definitely make friends with someone, and sharing food is part of the tradition of pilgrims. Someone cooks pasta for everyone, someone will share fruit.

These cute little things allow you to feel a sense of belonging and feel like a part of one big family with a wide and generous soul.

How not to get lost

Thousands of pilgrims have traveled the path over the past hundreds of years, so you can only get lost if it is written in the book of your destiny.

But seriously, the shell is the main symbol of the Way, showing the direction. Alas, I later learned that it is not the shell itself that is important, but the direction in which its petals look. Sometimes, standing at a fork with a painted shell, I could not figure out where to go, and why the volunteers marked the road so thoughtlessly.

Only at the end of the journey someone opened my eyes, telling me that it is at the fork that you need to look where the leaves diverge, and this is the key to understanding the direction of the path. In other words, if the petals diverge to the right, then go to the left.

Once I got lost: the road was noisy somewhere nearby, I didn’t want to return, and I decided to go through the forest. The forest was unfriendly, wet and prickly, its thorns tore my skin, a raincoat, despair overtook, I wandered among these thickets, listening to the noise of the road, and did not understand where the exit was.

However, during the journey, I developed my mental antitraps facilitating the condition in the most difficult situations. I knew for sure that no matter what today brought me, in the evening I would sit in the albergue and write down my impressions on paper. This thought supported me, I knew that it could be difficult, painful, scary, unbearable, but everything would pass, and in the evening I, scratched and soaked through, would be warm and safe. And I found the way, and my own prophecy came true.

Don't be afraid to reach out to people. The path is an adventure. I never ceased to be amazed that at moments when there were no houses, no people, let alone shells, in situations when I was standing in the center of an endless field and thinking where to direct my tired feet, a mirage tractor appeared on the horizon, past a horse with a rider who came out of nowhere passed by, and help always came.

Budget

The budget of the trip depends directly on your expenses and days on the road. The cost of my almost month-long trip was 500 EUR, but I slept in ordinary albergues, bought groceries in the supermarket and usually cooked myself. Although there were exceptions!

How not to try the famous Galician octopus or freshly caught Navajas clams!

If you plan to drink wine and go to dinner in a restaurant, then feel free to add another minimum of 15 EUR per day.

Process

It is customary among the pilgrims to rise early, have breakfast, and set out on their journey. But this is individual and depends on the distance that you plan to go. I got up at 6:00 in the early days and left at dawn, but I arrived very early at my destination, and in many of them there were not many options for what to do. Therefore, having entered the rhythm, I simply evaluated the plans for today. If there was a lot to go, then I left early, if the distance was small (up to 20 kilometers), then it was possible not to rush.

No one forces you to spend all your time in spiritual work and sad reflections. In Camino, you can do whatever you want. For example, in big cities I visited museums and saw sights if they were in my area of ​​interest.

You can admire nature, listen to music, meet people, taste local cuisine and understand your own life.

Santiago de Compostela

The end of the journey is the city of Santiago de Compostela. When only 5 kilometers remained before him, I was visited by an ambivalent feeling. On the one hand, I am here, I was able, I got there, and on the other, there is some sadness that everything is over.

The Camino becomes a pleasant routine at some point. All you have to do today is get up and walk and eventually reach the place where you sleep. By and large, there is no need to solve either work or vital issues, there is no responsibility for others, there are no deadlines and urgent matters. Just go. And you get used to it and get involved.

Therefore, I was not surprised when I met people who have been walking Camino for years and cannot stop and return to the usual life familiar to millions with work, family, responsibility and sometimes the predominance of duty over desires.

Nevertheless, the arrival in Santiago is joyful. The closer to the city, the more pilgrims meet along the way. Different Caminos converge into one, but here on the square in front of the cathedral tired travelers rest, you can meet dogs, donkeys, wanderers on foot, and cyclists.

And for those who do not want to stop the journey, but want to extend the wonderful moment at least a little, there is the final leg of the journey from Santiago to Finisterra - the westernmost point of continental Spain.

For pilgrims who have reached Santiago, they serve a service in the main cathedral, where the culmination of impressions is a huge censer botafumeiro. It is not always used, but only on major holidays or when groups of pilgrims order it for a fee. It is impossible to know this in advance.

Previously, the botafumeiro was taken out on Fridays, but now they have stopped doing it in the cathedral.
I was very lucky, on the day I arrived in Santiago, a 53-kilogram censer, one and a half meters long, swayed at a height of 20 meters, reaching a speed of almost 70 km / h.

In Santiago, you should look into the pilgrim registration office at: Rua das Carretas, 33, and show your credential. After that, you will be issued a certificate of passage.

If you continue on the Camino and go to Musia or Finisterra, they issue their own certificates.

Someone ends the journey in Santiago, and someone, like me, wants to continue the journey and goes to Finisterra and Musia.

End of the road

Well, these 3 extra days provide an opportunity to reflect on what has happened during the entire Path and breathe in some more of the incredible Camino air, which is different for everyone, but always pleasant and encouraging.

The last three days are walks in incredibly beautiful places: seas, forests, fields. To observe the rituals and traditions, you need to see the sunset at Cape Finisterra and burn some of your clothes there as a symbol of the end of the journey.

And it's also great to plunge into the cold sea waters and wash off everything that has accumulated in order to continue on your journey outside of Camino rejuvenated.

Safety

Thousands of pilgrims pass the Camino every year and, of course, in general, it is safe. However, even the Lord God cannot give a 100% guarantee that nothing will happen, so it’s better to follow the rules that the people I met on the way told me about:

1. Always carry a bag with documents and money with you in Albergue. Even if it seems that everyone around you is very reliable, remember that people go on a different journey and everyone's situations are different. Therefore, do not tempt fate and take your wallet with you to the toilet.
2. It is not recommended to set up a tent in secluded places. If you like camping, then put it near the alberge, and for a couple of euros you will get the right to use the shower and toilet.
3. The most terrible thing for me were dogs with huge jaws and sonorous voices, which peeped menacingly out of their booths, and their evil voices were heard throughout the deserted neighborhood with a devilish roar. According to the stories of pilgrims with experience, there were still cases of attacks and bites. But God had mercy on me. Although I often had to convince myself that the dogs would not harm me. It was not always easy, especially when a vicious huge jaw suddenly protruded a few centimeters from my walking feet in a meditative rhythm, returning me to the real world.
4. The biggest spiritual danger is pride. Simple overnight conditions, wet feet, lack of necessary privacy, heard stories of pilgrims who are having a harder time than you, help to cope with this. At some point, it may seem (and often seems) that you are the right pilgrim, and the rest are walking the Path incorrectly. This is a misconception worth tracking down, and one that simply needs to be taken critically, no matter how plausible it may seem. It seems that people speak the wrong way, walk the wrong way, cut the path wrong, spend the evenings wrong, drink the wrong way, treat the Path the wrong way, are not so spiritual, not so motivated, not so focused on overcoming difficulties. All this is from the evil one. The Camino is multifaceted and gives everyone the opportunity to experience it the way they want to experience it. And each method is right for a particular person. Judgment, evaluation, comparison is not the place here. Otherwise, Camino runs the risk of becoming not just another coin in the treasury of spiritual growth, but, on the contrary, a means that lowers the pilgrim a couple of steps down.
5. Be guided by common sense and always be guided by the situation. My path often ran through deserted villages of 3 houses, and one day I stumbled upon a strange comrade who lured me into the hangar with an arrow drawn by him on the ground pointing to his lair. I remembered that another pilgrim was following me a few hundred meters away, so I was not afraid. But vigilance should not be lost under any circumstances.

The beauty and pleasure of the Camino is that your path is unique. And what suits one will not suit another.

All tips and hints are based solely on my experience and on the stories of the pilgrims, which they themselves told me on the Path:

I am glad that I went this way and what it was, I am glad for the people I met and the places that I saw from the height of my two. I realized what I was capable of, realized my endurance limits and got to know myself a little better.

In 27 days, we covered about 800 kilometers, many cities, villages, villages. A lot of different, interesting, bright and lyrical things were seen. The most beautiful people from different parts of the world were met, Spanish and English were improved, the calf muscles were pumped up. There was an experience of walking long distances in any weather, any mood and any sorrows and troubles.

I know that I don’t panic when I get lost, I can control myself, I can endure suffering and find something good in them.
I expected a more difficult test, but everything turned out quite tolerably.

Much depends on the mood and on us: what exactly we will see and draw. Will a gray day, wet socks and a cockroach in a bar become a stronger impression for us, or will it be more important to accidentally hear the story of an interesting person, the experience of mutual assistance and humility.

Choose your path and boldly move forward. Buen Camino!

Camino de Santiago - The Way of St. James, the most popular pilgrimage route through Europe to the Spanish town of Santiago de Compostela to the tomb of the Apostle James. For hundreds of years, pilgrims from all over the world have been walking along Camino to venerate the relics of the saint, but in our time the Path has ceased to be religious and has become the main walking route in Spain, having managed not to lose its mysticism and near-philosophical meaning. No matter what religion you profess, anyone can take this route. A traveler talks about her experience.

Christina Boyko

There are about 15 different versions of the Path, but the most popular are four: French (800 km through the Pyrenees and central Spain), Primitivo (315 km, the oldest and most difficult route from Oviedo), Northern Route (860 km along the northern coast of Spain) and Portuguese (400 km from Lisbon or 240 km from along the ocean). On average, travelers travel 20-30 km a day, and thus the French way is overcome in 32 days, and from Porto to Santiago they reach ten. Of course, not everyone can physically walk such distances - many reduce the distance or go slowly, stretching the travel time. There are even those who pass the Camino on bicycles or on horseback. But mostly the pilgrims go. For the official "test" you need to go 100 km, and no matter what segment it is - you can start anywhere.

A pilgrimage is fundamentally different from any other journey. This is not a trekking route, although sometimes it seems that way when you overcome the next climb. This is not a typical walk through parks, forests and beaches. Here you are more likely to meet people with cardio machines than trained athletes, although walking 20 km a day with a fifteen-kilogram backpack is a serious physical exertion. But that's the whole Camino. In fact, this is an emotional path, an opportunity to understand yourself, think, strengthen your spirit and find answers to your own questions.

“Here you will meet people with cardio machines rather than trained athletes”

What did I know about Camino? Nothing. I am not religious, I have not read the book by Paolo Coelho "Diary of a Magician", where the author describes his experience on the French path and after the release of which Camino became popular, like Iceland after the movie "The Secret Life of Walter Mitty". Nobody told me about the trip, and I had no idea that people walk around Spain for a whole month! The first time I heard about Camino was in Spanish class and I took note of the idea. I was going to Iceland on my next vacation, but in a few months something inside clicked, and I realized that I simply had to go to Camino. It was a rather strange and strong desire, which did not give rest, because how can you refuse a trip to Iceland like that? But the tickets were on hand, and I reassured myself that I would pass the Camino some other time. And then miracles happened. The airline rescheduled my flight to Reykjavik by five minutes and advised me that I could get a refund if I was not happy with the new time. And so I ended up on the path. And miracles continued to happen.

HOW TO GET TO

You can start Camino from anywhere. The main thing is to choose which route you are going. If this is the French Way, then it starts in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, which can be reached by train from Paris or Madrid. Other popular starting cities are Pamplona, ​​Leon, Burgos, Ponferrada (the distance will vary accordingly).

Limited to a standard two-week vacation, I decided to take the Portuguese route from Porto along the Atlantic coast. I was looking for tickets from Moscow, but I didn’t manage to save much, because I had a large 80-liter backpack, which I initially did not plan to take in hand luggage. Tickets are more expensive due to luggage. Turkish Airlines flew to Porto from Moscow with a change in Istanbul, Vueling back from Barcelona, ​​where I planned to fly from A Coruña, in northwestern Spain.

WHEN TO GO

If you want to avoid tourists and heat, it is better to go in May or September. April is the rainy season. In winter, many albergues (hostels for pilgrims) are closed, and you carry a lot of warm clothes with you. In summer, Spain is hot and crowded, so many pilgrims get up at 5 am in order to overcome part of the way in the morning coolness and find a place to sleep. Many take a tent with them: you do not depend on the points on the map. I went in early April, the weather on the Portuguese coast was sunny, every day it was + 12-15 degrees, and it rained heavily only once. It was cooler in Spain, it rained more often, but I still managed to get a tan.

PREPARATION

Before the Camino, I did watch the movie "The Way" and met Coelho in order to tune in to the right wave. I didn't read it, deciding that my Camino was what it would be. So I didn't worry too much about preparation. I already went to the harsh tracks in Kamchatka and, therefore, I just stuffed all the hiking things into my backpack. This was probably my only mistake.

For the Camino, a backpack of 50-60 liters is suitable. It is believed that its weight should not exceed 10% of the weight of the pilgrim. Mine was 80 liters, weighed about 10 kg and looked so huge that everyone I met was worried about how I was carrying such a burden. Several things were obviously superfluous, and I took some, for example, a film camera, realizing that it was an extra burden. By the way, for those who still prefer to go light, there are luggage delivery services, such as Camino Fácil or Jacotrans. Your luggage is picked up and taken to the place of the next overnight stay, it costs from € 5 per day.

Clothing for Camino is the same as for trekking. The main thing is a windproof waterproof jacket and good trekking boots. I would say that the pleasure of the Camino is 70% dependent on the right shoes and 30% on a well-built backpack. Of the extra things, I needed a tee, earplugs, a flashlight, a raincoat and a water bottle (there are fountains along the way). Plus, in which there were all kinds of ointments for the legs and a lot of plasters - corns cannot be avoided.

Before starting the journey, you also need to take care of the pilgrim's passport - a credential in which stamps are affixed. They are evidence of the passage of the Way, they are carefully examined at the pilgrim center in Santiago in order to write out a compostela - a nominal certificate on the passage of the Camino in Latin. Initially, stamps were only placed in albergs and churches, but now even bars and restaurants offer to stamp your passport. Sometimes it comes to the ridiculous: an enterprising local decides to pitch a tent with coffee and tea on the way and lures pilgrims with the fact that you can also get a seal from him.

ABOUT ROUTES

The path to the pilgrims is indicated by yellow arrows and shells - the symbols of Camino. The Internet is full of maps with detailed routes that will help you not to get lost. If you prefer paper maps, you can buy a guidebook, which will even have a detailed description of the terrain. There is a lot of information, but mostly in Spanish or English.

I downloaded offline maps, where many albergues and interesting places were indicated with comments and tips in Russian. However, on the third day, the cards led me to a dead end, and I realized that I could safely do without them - it’s safer to follow the yellow arrows, and their search adds a game component to Kamino, like in some kind of quest.

Usually no one has a detailed plan for the day, booking something in advance is not accepted. You know when you start and when you need to come to Santiago, everything else is very approximate. For example, I did not fully know whether I would turn off the coastal Portuguese route to the central one or continue along the ocean: I made the decision in the process.

In general, it is impossible to get lost on Camino: the entire path is well marked, shells and arrows meet exactly when needed, and you can always ask local or other pilgrims for directions. The trail itself is laid around noisy highways and roads through parks, forests, winelands or along the ocean, there are many churches and monasteries, often such segments of the path are associated with climbs. The road is scenic with beautiful views. All this inspires thought.

WHERE TO SLEEP

Pilgrims spend the night in special shelters - albergs, where they are allowed on a credit card. Usually they meet every five kilometers, but sometimes less often. It is useful to get a list of albergs in one of the information centers, I got one in Porto. But even if it doesn’t work out, there are signs along the way, and it won’t be difficult to find a place to sleep without a map.

There are official albergues that cost € 6-10 or “donative” (how much you leave), and there are private ones, a little more expensive, they can be booked on Booking. The first are usually designed for 30-50 people and are very ascetic: one or two rooms with a dozen two-story metal beds, smells, snoring at night and no bed linen with pillows, they provide only a thin cover for the mattress - protection from bedbugs. In the summer, bed bugs are a real disaster, so it’s better to pre-treat your backpack and sleeping bag with a special tool. But in such albergs it is not dirty, the shower and toilet are clean. There is hot water, but you need to be among the first to shower, so as not to wait for it to heat up again later. But there are no heaters and batteries, the walls are made of stone, and sometimes it’s even colder inside than outside, and it’s impossible to dry things (but they can be dried for an additional fee in special dryers).

In private albergues, you can count on your own room with a soft bed. Theoretically, if you stay only in them, you don’t need a sleeping bag. You can stay overnight in expensive hotels, but I think that in this way the whole spirit of Camino is violated. I like official albergues: they are soulful and are located in very interesting atmospheric places, for example, in churches or school gyms. So in Santiago I spent the night in a huge old seminary building (Avenida Quiroga Palacios, 2 A) with long halls and cell rooms, in Porto in a village house with its own garden (R. 5 de Outubro, 221) , and in Caminje in the basement of an elementary school (Av. Padre Pinheiro, 36) .

Some albergues are located in the very center of cities, others are in villages where there is nothing in the district. The latter usually have a bar on the ground floor where you can dine. In cities, there is a choice: go to a cafe or buy food in a supermarket. True, you need to specify in advance whether there is a stove or microwave in the alberg. For example, for ten days I never saw an electric kettle anywhere.

BUDGET

In two weeks I spent about €160: €60 for accommodation, the rest went to food. I mainly bought food in supermarkets for breakfast and snacks on the way (fruits or nuts), but did not save too much. I could stop for coffee several times a day. I tried to have lunch after arriving at the place, I cooked it myself or went to a cafe where they served the pilgrim's menu. It is reminiscent of a set lunch, which includes soup, hot, sometimes dessert and a drink. Its price increases as it approaches Santiago. In Portugal you can dine for €5, in Spain for €10. No hardships, it all depends on your budget.

ABOUT PILGRIM

There is powerful energy on the Path, thousands of people with different destinies have walked along it for centuries, and when you think about it, it is as if you become a part of them, and this inspires. On popular routes you meet a lot of young people, some go in pairs or even whole families. There are a lot of older people who, as it turns out, are not going to the first Camino. From them you learn not to rush and enjoy the path. You watch how they walk at their own pace, not paying attention to anyone, and once again you are convinced that happiness is not in kilometers.

"Many people start their Camino alone and end up with someone else"

Many people start their Camino alone and end up with someone else. You constantly run into the same people because you are on the same route. It's hard not to start a conversation. So the first days I literally pursued the Portuguese uncle and constantly ended up in the same places as him, and on the fourth day I met a group of guys who had been walking together for fifteen days, although they each started alone. Initially, I was also going to go all the way alone, but then I decided that our meeting was not accidental, and joined them. So together we reached Santiago. There was a moment when I wanted to be alone with myself, I decided that I would go alone for a couple of days, and the guys supported me, because everyone on Camino understands how important it is to be alone with your thoughts. It's like in life - everyone on the Camino has their own path, and not someone else is responsible for it, but you yourself.

ABOUT DAWNS AND DOGS

The first days I got up at 6 in the morning and walked for about an hour in the predawn twilight along a deserted road. During the day, I almost did not make stops, flew forward and came to the albergs even before they opened (usually 14.00-15.00). Then I realized that it was wrong. First, a big load. Second, you don't enjoy the moment. And thirdly, there is still half a day left, which you don’t know where to spend: you don’t have the strength anymore, but you don’t want to sit in the alberg. Still, Camino is not about speed and kilometers, but about the process of the journey itself.

There was a day when in the morning I had to go straight through a dark forest. There was fog, no one around, and out of the darkness two dogs jumped out at me. Usually you pick up some kind of stick on the way to drive away wild animals, which pilgrims often talk about, but I forgot mine and stood rooted to my feet at the edge of the road in the hope that the dogs would not pay attention to me. It's gone. That morning, by the way, I met one of the most beautiful sunrises in my life. I walked out of the forest to the vineyards in the hilly country, and when the sun came out from behind the horizon, everything was drowned in gold.

ABOUT THE COMFORT ZONE

In general, walking on the Camino is safe. You just need to follow simple precautions: do not walk through dark doorways, do not leave things unattended and do not do what you do not like. Many people think that this is a harsh hike, but in fact you go through cities and villages with good infrastructure, and the locals are friendly to the pilgrims, wish you a pleasant journey and sometimes treat you with fruits from their gardens. I think the main dangers are possible injuries and your own emotions.

Walking is not easy at first. On average, you need to walk 25-30 km per day, which is not so difficult in a rested state without a backpack and corns. But when you walk so many kilometers for several weeks in a row, it's a big load on your legs and back. Therefore, for starters, you should think about a short distance, for example, choose a route for two weeks. During this time, in general, you manage to understand what's what and draw some conclusions.

My most vivid negative episode was connected with leaving my comfort zone. One day it rained so hard that raincoats were useless. The trail led through a field, but we decided to hide somewhere, so we turned onto the highway and found a gas station. Hoping that the rain would stop faster than we finished drinking coffee from the machine, we tried to somehow dry ourselves. But the rain kept coming and going. We still had ten kilometers to go (2.5 hours), but soaking wet, we decided to hitchhike. In ten minutes we were taken to the city, but all evening I was very angry with myself: at the first difficulties, I “surrendered”. Then, of course, I realized that this was another lesson from Camino - you need to take care of your health and be careful.

EPILOGUE

Many, having passed one Camino, come back and go again, but for long distances. Someone, having reached Santiago, understands that this is not enough, and goes to Finisterra or Mucia (about 88 km). This three-day trip is a kind of epilogue. If there is no time, the journey can be done by bus (3 hours), but then there will be no chance to get another certificate - finisterriana, an analogue of compostela. I had an extra day, and I decided to drive to the city of Cee, from where I had to walk 15 km to Finisterra.

Finisterra (or Fisterra in Galician) is called by the Spaniards the end of the earth, although geographically the most extreme point is located on Cape Cabo de Roca. But this is an iconic place for a pilgrim. There, on the cape, there is a lighthouse, which has a pointer with a zero kilometer: there is nowhere to go further. According to tradition, pilgrims burn their shoes and clothes here at sunset or throw things into the ocean, and someone just comes to see the sun off as a symbol of the end of their Path.

It sounds like a cliché, but Camino is a metaphor for life itself. There will be ups and downs, detours, disappointments and fatigue, joy from simple things, someone will be on the way, and someone will say goodbye, but with every step you move forward towards your goal and recognize yourself.

Photo from the personal archive of the heroine