New Year (Tahun Baru Masehi, New Year’s Day). New Year in Bali: how and when to celebrate How to plan a vacation during Nyepi in Bali

Many years ago, on a girl’s blog, I read about the Day of Silence, which the Balinese celebrate along with the traditional New Year. The girl wrote literally a few lines on her blog that the Balinese people don’t let her go outside for fear of evil spirits, but I really remember this unusual tradition. Therefore, getting to Nyepi - the Balinese New Year - was undoubtedly a significant event for me.

It's funny that on this trip I also planned a long-awaited visit Holi in India - the brightest and most colorful holiday in the world! And I planned to go to Songkran in Thailand - the wettest holiday in the world! :) But I didn’t think about Balinese Nyepi at all! I only learned that we were going to a holiday from the mouth of the taxi driver taking us from Denpasar airport. "Wow!" — I thought — “What a pleasant surprise!!!” =)

Holi is a celebration of the arrival of a new season according to the ancient Indian calendar. Songkran is the Thai New Year, which begins with the birth of Buddha. Nyepi (or Nyepi) is the Balinese New Year, which is calculated according to the Balinese lunar calendar Çaka (Saka), which has its roots in the Shalivahana era in India. Such a wild mixture of traditional holidays happened during our trip, thanks to which in just a month and a half we experienced complete immersion in other cultures and became part of local customs. This is an amazing experience and impressions!!!

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Initially, we planned to fly to the beginning of May, when the rainy season would finally end, but then I remembered that somewhere in March the Balinese celebrate their New Year, and knowing on what scale they spend even the usual one, we decided that this was a celebration must be truly grandiose.

I love all sorts of large-scale events, and if we plan a trip in advance, then I definitely make inquiries about such events, and if we are already on the road, then we adjust the route, trying not to miss such festivals.

We didn’t go to the ocean these days, but we were stuck in traffic jams on the streets everywhere because of elegant processions and ceremonies :)

or Ogo-Ogo, placed not only along the roads,

but also overlapping them

The most interesting day was just before Nyepi, it is called Pangrupukan.

From the very morning the women began to cook the rich

and display them in front of the house,

Also, watch your step so that you don’t inadvertently step or get run over by a wheel.

Such holiday offerings include flowers, fruits, coconut, eggs, rice, and in some places fried chicken.

You can read more about this tradition; on my last visit to Bali, I wrote a detailed article about the communication of the Balinese with local evil and good spirits.

In addition, the housewives in the house try to make as much noise as possible in order to drive demons out of the house. Everything is according to science – both carrot and stick :)

We met offerings not only at the gates, but also all around the city, near shops, cafes, and just on the road

Vehicles, even such huge jeeps, are also decorated with offerings, not only in front, but also in the back.

On this day, small sacrifices are also allowed to clear the island of negative energy. That is why, on this day they are legal

In principle, the Balinese do not hide them too much on ordinary days (), but on Pangrupukan they have a blast - they organize fights from the very morning, completely openly.

On this day we repeatedly drove past festive processions,

We also stopped near temples,

sometimes, while tying a sarong, I looked inside

As always, it was very pleasant to be in Balinese temples, this is probably because they are not only bright

and festively decorated,

but also with green grass, and everything in the open air,

there is no dusk, the smell of candles and antiquity, only a light breath of wind, sometimes you can hear the aroma of fresh frangipani flowers, or the smell of incense sticks

And the Balinese people are all so friendly

and old

and young, smiling, waving their hands

But not all Balinese go to temples; ceremonies on this day are held right on the roads,

located in the middle of the street

Traffic is sometimes blocked for their sake

It must be said that the search for housing these days was slightly difficult, when Lyosha called the phone number indicated in the advertisement, he was often answered that they were busy, there was a ceremony going on,

or performance rehearsal, call after Nyepi :)

Everyone's activities are different, women rush to the temple,

to make offerings there,

bless food

and just gossip with your friends, because the next day you won’t leave the house anywhere

I am still amazed at their grace and straight posture,

as well as the ability to maintain balance, with three or even more kilograms on your head

Well, children and men are also worried - we urgently need to finish the monsters,

someone's head fell off, it needs to be fixed and put back in place

or build a bamboo stretcher

Women, like any beauty, need the finishing touch, someone to comb their hair or tie a scarf,

and who had to completely clean up the mess, so they had to put up a ladder,

well, and then, without taking your eyes off, admire

If you look away, you might run into something like this))

Tourists also have things to do, before the start of the festive procession they need to buy provisions in the store,

and come up with leisure activities for the next day - be it a book or a movie, not everyone decides to spend the day in silence, forgetting about the Internet, so they arrange get-togethers with feasts.

All tourists were warned in advance - either they observe the Day of Silence and its main instructions, i.e. they don’t leave the hotel, and they don’t make much noise on its territory, or they leave the island; special fun-loving people were offered to go in advance to the neighboring Gili Islands, which are an hour and a half away by boat and where all the prohibitions no longer apply, and there is also a sea and a beach.

Some hotels were selling package tours for these days, with breakfast, lunch and dinner included, as well as a whole range of entertainment programs from spa programs to poker games, so that the tourist on vacation did not have time to miss the sea, the beach and other activities “in freedom” .

I tried to find out from the locals what they would be doing the next day

Someone said that the main thing is not to leave the house, not to turn on the lights, not to watch TV and not to listen to music. But reading books, communicating with family is allowed, ideally, eating is not allowed, but judging by the excitement in the stores,

This point is omitted by many and is interpreted as only food purchased in advance or prepared the day before. The women said that the main thing is forbidden to make fires and cook fresh food

General regulations begin to apply from 12 o'clock at night immediately after the end of the festive procession of monsters, but in fact, even on this night they continue to burn bonfires, explode firecrackers and arrange fireworks.

Real silence reigns in the middle of the night, and in the morning comes perhaps the most unusual day, Nyepi itself - the Day of Silence.

On this day, cafes, shops, all kinds of offices and businesses, transport and what have you, even the airport is closed on the island (by the way, this is the only airport in the world that is regularly closed for a whole day once a year). Only emergency medical vehicles are allowed on call, otherwise the city is completely empty; for exactly one day Bali turns into a ghost island.

A special patrol “pecalang” keeps order

These are volunteers chosen by the village, who have undergone special initiation and maintain order on the island, brave guys in red shirts, they check that there are no violators on the streets

This patrol has the right to punish, both with a fine and by detaining until the morning, those who dare to stick their nose out of the gate, or make noise in their yard, cook so that the smoke is a rocker and light all the lamps in the house. And apparently, he does his job well, at least during the half-day that I spent on the balcony of our house, I did not see anyone working in the field, going outside the gates of the house, and even more so disturbing the mysterious silence with the sounds of mopeds and loud conversations.

On this day, I also heard a hundred natural sounds - the chirping of various spider beetles, geckos, croaking and quacks, birdsong, the sounds of the wind and the rustling of banana leaves, I already hear them every day, but dozens more unknown ones were added to them, more quiet ones, they can be listed almost endlessly... And what a starry night it was that day... almost like a full moon, just a sight for sore eyes, although probably the most ordinary one, I just saw a lot more stars due to the fact that many Balinese really didn't turn on the light.

The first day of the new year is intended for rethinking your life, planning for the coming year and, in general, for reflection. Not a bad tradition, you’ll agree :)

Those who especially observe “fasting”, on this day, refuse all communication and food, spend a day, or rather 30 hours (from night to 6 a.m. on the day following Nyepi) in complete solitude and silence.

On the Day of Silence, the spirits awakened the day before must see empty cities and leave the island.

Attentive readers will note that I didn’t write anything about the festival itself and the festive procession, I skipped straight to the Day of Silence)) You are right, the most important fun - the Ngrupuk ceremony, the Ogo-Ogo parade, began in the late afternoon, around seven o’clock, and in order not to overload the post with photographs, I wrote a separate article about the horrors of our town - read it

See you again!

For Bali, the month of March is special, since it is during this period that the largest holiday on the island – the Balinese New Year – falls. The events last for several days, during which various ceremonies, rituals, and rituals are performed. On the occasion of the celebration, many establishments, including entertainment ones, are closed. And on the most important day you have to adhere to 100% silence.

New Year's Day in Bali is calculated based on the Hindu calendar, which is called Saka. Like ours, it has 365 days, but its chronology dates back to 78 AD. This date is not permanent. For example, in 2018, the Day of Silence was celebrated on March 17. Based on the local calendar in Indonesia, the year is only 1940. In 2019, the celebrations fall on March 7, and in 2020, on March 23. The date should always coincide with the formation of the new moon. The main events last 4 days, each of which has its own ritual differences.

How is Balinese New Year celebrated?

The New Year celebration takes place over several days, each of which has its own characteristics and traditions.

Melasti purification ceremony

On the first day of New Year's celebrations, the Melasti ceremony takes place, which in turn symbolizes purification. On this day, all the islanders head towards the reservoirs. Water is especially important in Hinduism as it is a source of vitality.

The cleansing ritual consists of 2 levels:

Buvana Alit allows you to cleanse yourself of evil thoughts and sins. To perform the ritual, you need to go into a pond and wash yourself with water.
Buwana Agung– this ritual is already aimed at cleansing the planet from the evil that man has created. To do this, it is necessary to wash objects from the temple in a reservoir, sprinkle water on the soil, trees and other places.

Both rituals are closely related to each other and cannot exist separately. It is impossible to cleanse the earth and still be a sinner. It is also impossible to cleanse yourself and leave the environment unpurified.

The Melasti ritual always begins early in the morning, around 6 o'clock. All residents of the locality leave the temple complex towards the ocean, river or lake. The women have offerings in their hands, the men have objects from the temple complexes, which will subsequently be washed. To perform the ritual, the local population wears white outfits. At the reservoir, the temple minister reads prayers, after which the purification process itself begins. During the ritual, the procession must circle the beach several times.

It's not uncommon for Melasti to take up the entire day. The most vibrant and colorful ceremonies take place in the main temples of the island - Ulun Danu or Tanah Lot. In addition, processions take place on the popular beaches of Sanur, Kuta, and Seminyak.

All island residents are required to participate in Melasti. Without cleansing, you cannot start celebrating the New Year. Every guest of Bali can watch the ceremony or take part in it directly. For the ritual you need to dress in traditional clothes. If you don’t have one, then just wear any white clothes.

Ogoh-Ogoh Parade

The Ogo-Ogo Parade is the most enchanting part of the New Year celebration, as it is a procession of monsters and theatrical performances. It takes place in all cities and villages of the island. In larger population centers the scale and culmination are impressive. To watch the parade, you don’t have to go to any special place in Bali, you just need to leave your house and you will definitely witness the colorful procession. In 2018, I watched the New Year's parade on the central streets of Ubud.

Each village makes a statue of a demon, this process is carried out by young people from the organization Seka Truna Truni, there is one in almost every settlement. Professional artists and sculptors often provide assistance. And this is no coincidence, because each sculpture is a real work of art. Foam plastic is used to make statues of demons; real miracles can be created from it. Previously, bamboo and papier-mâché were used as materials.

The parade ends in the evening. All manufactured dolls are installed in a specially designated place - this could be a beach or an open central area. At the end of the ceremony, terrible creatures are burned at the stake, which allows for harmony to be established between the gods and man.

As practice shows, large dolls are burned extremely rarely. Usually after the parade they are taken to some temple, where they are preserved until next year. Small demons, last year's dolls, or parts of new ones (for example, hair, claws or teeth) can be thrown into the fires.

When the parade is over, there is a competition for the best monster. The most spectacular sights are observed in Denpasar, Ubud and Sanur.

Large dolls at the ceremony are a symbol of vice and human evil. It is these evil spirits that need to be rid of the universe before the onset of the next New Year. The procession of dolls is always a bright event that arouses special interest among tourists. The procession is accompanied by theatrical performances and loud music.

I really liked the parade, I haven’t seen anything like it anywhere else!

Day of Silence (Nyepi)

When the next day arrives, complete silence should reign in Bali for 24 hours. This day is called Nyepi. Its essence is to make the evil spirits who descend to earth believe that the island is deserted. On this day, the entire population, including guests of Bali, must adhere to the following rules:

behave as quietly as possible, including excluding all conversations;
do not turn on the light, the maximum you can use is candles;
take a break from work;
exclude entertainment of any format;
be in their homes.

Based on all this, it must be said that on this day residents should even give up all kinds of gadgets. On the Day of Silence, cooking is prohibited; many island residents abstain from eating food altogether. On Nyepi, all shops and catering establishments are closed, even the airport is not functioning.

Only those residents on whom a special ritual has been performed can be outside. They are the ones who ensure that all the rules are followed. In addition, emergency medical personnel continue their work. If an ordinary tourist or local resident is seen on the streets, the offender may be fined or sent to the police station. They are serious about this!

The next day, the residents of Bali go to visit their family and friends to ask for forgiveness for everything they have done.

How to prepare for the Day of Silence?

If you decide to celebrate the Day of Silence in Bali, then you should carefully prepare for it:

Stock up on food and drinking water for the day. Before Nyepi, all shops close a little earlier. They do not work on this day itself.
Check that you have all the necessary medications. It is better to have the necessary minimum in your first aid kit.
If you need light on this day, it is better to get a dark blanket with which you can cover the window. It should not be visible from the street that you are using electricity. There are times when a family has children who are terrified of the dark. In such a situation, you can contact the banjar, where they can issue a special permit for the use of electricity.
During the Balinese New Year celebrations, make sure you have enough cash on hand. Since ATMs may be turned off at this time to prevent hacking.

What to do on Silence Day?

The celebration of Nyepi will have to be taken seriously, as no exceptions are made for tourists. On this day you can meditate, fast, and clear your thoughts. Download a few movies, read a book, or just chat with your family. If you have a villa with your own yard, then you can go out onto its territory. In addition, on Nyepi you can check into a hotel where movement around the territory is not so severely limited.

I spent the Day of Silence in the village of RD2. I talked about it in an article about. There is a large area there, there are always a lot of Russian guys relaxing. Therefore, Nyepi was quite fun for me. We swam in the pool, played games, talked.

If this daily routine does not suit you, then go to neighboring islands for a few days. There you can not limit yourself to any activities and enjoy a good rest.

Is it worth going for Balinese New Year?

If you don’t know whether it’s worth going to Bali during the traditional New Year celebrations, then I can confidently say that it is worth it. This incredibly beautiful action deserves special attention. After such ceremonies, the world opens up from a completely new perspective; you cannot even imagine that this happens. The traditions of celebrating Nyepi go back many years and are passed on from generation to generation. Thanks to them, a special atmosphere is preserved in homes and families, which each of us dreams of deep down in our souls.

Don't be intimidated by the traditional New Year in Bali. This event will allow you to become better acquainted with the traditions and culture of another people, broaden your horizons and will certainly open up something completely new for you.

The Indonesian island of Bali has adopted its own calendar - Tsaka, which partly corresponds to the Indian one, and partly is based on local beliefs and traditions. New Year's Day - Nyepi - always falls on “the day after the new moon that ends the ninth month” (around the end of March). The local New Year is probably the most non-festive holiday in the world.

The fact is that, according to the concepts of Hinduism, the universe develops cyclically, and since the universe begins with “absolute Nothing,” the beginning of the new year should be as serene as possible and devoid of any kind of activity. The cheerful and active residents of Bali restrain themselves in everything on this day. Nyepi is a time for deep meditation, strict self-control “tapabrata” and prayer. All true believers must observe four main rules: “brata amati geni” - no light or fire, “amati karya” - no work, “amati lelungan” - no travel and “amati lelangan” - no carnal desires.

But since the Balineses simply cannot live without fun, noise and theatricality, the restrictions and strictness of Nyepi are compensated by many pre-holiday and post-holiday rituals. The most colorful of them is the purification ritual, which takes place three days before the New Year. Dressed in special attire, the islanders solemnly carry temple statues to the ocean shore, river or spring, singing songs, burning incense and ringing ritual bells. Near the shore, everyone prays collectively, and the priests wash the statues in consecrated water. This procedure can last more than two hours. After it ends, the gongs speed up the rhythm, and the oldest priestess begins the dance. First one monk enters the circle, then the rest join him, and now all of them, with a frozen, unearthly gaze, are spinning in an incredibly beautiful dance. Those gathered believe that at this moment the monks are possessed by higher spirits. To bring the dancers out of their trance state, they are sprinkled with blessed water. During the three days before Nyepi, this ritual is performed throughout the island.

The day before Nyepi, at exactly noon, the ceremony of “tawur kesanga”, or exorcism of evil spirits, begins. Since religions in Bali are intricately intertwined, the official part of the ceremony is led by three priests at once: a representative of Buddhism, Shaivism and the local religion of Senggukhuna. Sacred texts are chanted to the sound of bamboo bells, a unique Indonesian gamelan orchestra plays, and the blood of sacrificial animals is shed. Residents of Bali believe that this should help cleanse the land: New Year falls in the off-season, when the rains have already stopped and the drought has not yet set in, so it is necessary to cleanse the earth of dirt, restoring harmony through sacrifices.

Returning home from the temple, the Balinese also feed the evil spirits so that they do not offend them. Of course, treats are offered outside the house so that the forces of evil do not want to stay longer in such an abundant place. For those who do not take the bait, a “cleansing” is carried out: family members and their friends mercilessly bang on pots and pans and deliberately scream heart-rendingly. Spirits hate not only loud noises, but also fire, so exorcists light candles, torches and sparklers and walk around the home with them. The ritual of expelling evil forces from the house has the unpronounceable name “ngerupuk”.

In villages, in order to get rid of evil forces, they often organize a special procession, akin to a carnival. The main character of the procession is the giant monster Ogo-Ogo, made from bamboo, bags and various scrap materials. Before the ritual begins, a ceremony is performed that forces the spirits to move into Ogo-Ogo. The demon is solemnly carried through the village and then burned to destroy evil - “bhuta”.

Well, then silence comes: the new year must be born in purity and “out of nothing.” On this day you will not see a single car on the streets of Bali. What about cars? During periods of calm, even the international airport is closed - flights are not accepted or departed from early morning (foreign partners are aware). Therefore, if you want to admire the local New Year with your own eyes, come early. And on the eve of Nyepi, buy food and everything you need because the shops will be closed. Also, everyone, even tourists, on this day is forbidden to turn on the lights, make noise and play music - an authorized person monitors compliance with the rules, and violating them is fraught. However, families with small children are sometimes looked at with a blind eye - what to take from small children?
The calm lasts exactly 24 hours, after which the holiday again becomes like a holiday.

It's that time of year when everyone plunges into the holiday atmosphere, anticipating the sounds of opening bottles of champagne and the clinking of glasses, and the question “How to spend the New Year in Bali?” becomes the number one concern. If you are reading this now, then, most likely, you have not yet fully decided where to go, for which you will need our guide to the main New Year’s holidays, and not the islands. The endless Balinese coastline will delight you with a varied choice for both those who want to be in the center of the party and those who want to stay outside the “vicious circle”. Here everyone will find exactly what they like... and what they can afford, and we will help you with this!

New Year in Bali for those who like to have fun

The epicenter of nightlife on New Year's Eve in Bali is located in the districts of Kuta-Seminyak and Canggu, while as you approach Seminyak, not only the pretentiousness of the establishments increases (some of them have a dress code that is quite strict within the framework of island life), but also their price . Let's look at the most popular places from the most budget ($) to the most expensive ($$$).

Kuta ($)

Perhaps the most budget-friendly option for going public. The number of bars and clubs in Kuta rivals the number of casinos in Las Vegas. All the hottest establishments are within walking distance of each other (1-5 minutes), which already significantly reduces your taxi costs (however, on December 31, traffic there is still blocked).

Where: Eikon, Sky Garden, Bounty, Engine Room, Apache Reagge Bar
How much: admission to all clubs is free, except Sky Garden: you will have to pay 250,000 rupees (approximately $18) or 300,000 rupees ($21) when purchasing on December 31. The price includes dinner (from 20 to 22 hours) and a drink. Also at Sky Garden you can book a table for 4 people for Rp 2,750,000 ($196) and you will get dinner for 4 people and 1 bottle of spirits of your choice. The average price of cocktails is 50,000 - 60,000 rupees (about 3.5 - 5 $)
What to wear: no dress code
What's playing: with the exception of Reggae Bar (where they play reggae 🙂), all of the above places have several dance floors with different music

On a note:

Many people (especially Australians) “warm up” before the club at the famous Alleycats bar on Poppies ll with shots and cocktails for $1.5 - $3
Be extremely careful, because along with the large flow of tourists, those who want to “earn extra money” on their phones, cameras and wallets also arrive on the island. So keep a close eye on your pockets and bags.

Seminyak

This is the second largest concentration of clubs and bars, but the main difference from Kuta is the difference in the status of the establishments and, accordingly, their prices.
Potato Head Beach ($$$):

Jenja ($$):

Start: at 19 o'clock (until 5 o'clock in the morning)
Where: Townsquare Suites, Jl. Nakula 18 Seminyak
How much: 300,000 rupees - pre-sale, 400,000 rupees on site
What to wear: smart casual
What's playing: house

Ku De Ta ($$$):

Where: Jl. Kayu Aya No.9, Seminyak
How much: 850,000 rupees (pre-sale), ticket price on the spot is 1,000,000 rupees, those who want to dine and have fun will have to pay 2,300,000
What to wear: smart casual
What's playing: house

Woobar ($$$):

When: 6 pm to 4 am the next day
Where: Kerobokan, Jl. Petitenget, Bali ( W Hotel Seminyak)
How much: 1,000,000 rupees - pre-sale, 1,200,000 rupees - on-site sales, cocktails - average 150,000 rupees + 10% taxes
In what: smart casual, cocktail, for men entry in shorts and T-shirts is prohibited
What's playing: techno, house

Cocoon Beach Club ($$):

Where: No. 66 Blue Ocean Boulevard, Jl. Arjuna, Seminyak
How much: pre-sale - 550,000 rupees, on site - 650,000, average price per cocktail - 150,000 rupees
In what: smart casual, cocktail, ball masks are also welcome
What's playing: house

Canggu

Canggu is a cross between Kuta and Seminyak, both in its pomp and cost of fun. The main places are located 2-3 minutes away by bike.

Deus ( $) :

When: from 19 pm to 3 am
Where: Jalan Batu Mejan 8, Canggu
How much: average price for a cocktail - 100,000 rupees, free admission
What: fancy dress
What's playing: rock'n'roll (live music)

Old Man's ($) :

When: from 19 pm
Where: NJl. Batu Bolong, Canggu
How much: pre-sale - 550,000 rupees, on site - 650,000, average price per cocktail - 80,000 rupees
What: whatever your heart desires (but a minimum of clothing is required :)
What's playing: The Hydrant Bali

On a note:

if all the clubs are already closing and there is still plenty of energy, head to the Sand Bar, which is located on Echo Beach. All shots cost 50,000 rupees, so you won't even notice how the first dawn of 2016 will come and after that you may hardly remember how you spent the New Year in Bali
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