When does golden autumn begin in Prague. Prague autumn. Is it worth it to go
We continue our walks in autumn Prague with pleasure, and here we are again at the Old Town Square, where twenty-seven white crosses remind of one of the saddest events in the history of the Czech Republic. In 1621, twenty-seven leaders of the Estates Revolt against the rule of the Habsburg family and King Ferdinand II were executed here. Popular rumor says that their ashes rest in the church of St. Salvatore or in the walls of the Tyn church.
The legend says that every year, on the day of their execution, June 21st, the ghosts of the murdered people can be seen next to the ancient tower. According to legend, the murdered ghosts decided to control the accuracy of the tower clock until the end of time. If the clock is running correctly, then supposedly nothing threatens the Czech land.
Strangely, some of our compatriots from the CIS countries have chosen this mournful place for their marriage ceremonies. Autumn in Prague is also a great time because in mid-September the famous Prague Autumn music festival takes place in the Czech capital. This year, the Prague Autumn festival, as always, will bring together eminent participants. The honorary role at the opening of the festival, on September 11, was given to the Russian Philharmonic Orchestra, which, under the baton of the famous conductor Alexander Vedernikov, will perform works by Czech authors: Josef Suk's Fantastic Scherzo and Bohuslav Martin's Fourth Symphony.
It should be noted that opening the festival with a concert of foreign musicians performing Czech compositions is one of the good traditions of Prague Autumn. Music lovers who always attend Prague Autumn concerts are looking forward to September 29, when the presentation of a special project arranged by the festival organizers together with the St. Petersburg Symphony Orchestra and its conductor Alexander Dmitriev will take place. This evening, guests of the Prague Autumn will hear two wonderful works from the treasury of Russian music - the Piano Concerto by Sergei Rachmaninov and the Leningrad Symphony by Dmitry Shostakovich. Every music lover visiting Prague should definitely visit Villa America, where the museum of the most famous Czech composer Antonin Dvorak is located. The villa was built at the beginning of the 18th century in the Baroque style and was originally owned by a representative of the Bohemian aristocracy - Vaclav Mikhne, who spent summer time here. Music has always sounded in her lush chambers, as an indispensable part of the sophisticated furnishings of the house.
Visiting the museum, you can see the relics associated with the name of the great Dvorak and collected by his fans from all over the world. From May to October, the music salon at the museum gives concerts of the Amazing Dvorak cycle, composed of the best works of the composer. Visitors to the museum are greeted by volunteer actors dressed in contemporary costumes and each is presented with a shot of the unique Czech liqueur Becherovka. It is worth noting that the Czech Republic has enough excellent performers, good orchestras and ensembles that have received awards all over the world. And if you add to your professional skills the ability to show the exquisite shades of music of local composers, then you can be sure that there are no better performers of works by Smetana, Dvořák and Janáček in the world than at the Prague Autumn festival.
But visitors of the festival will be able to delight their ears not only with classical compositions. This year, the favorite guest of the Czech capital, the famous opera diva Galina Gorchakova, will perform in the concert. Galnina Gorchakova is from the Urals and successfully graduated from the conservatory in Novosibirsk, the singer made her debut at the Mariininsky Theater. After there were victories at Covent Garden and La Scala, where the new star stunned the audience by performing the role of Renata in the opera Fiery Angel. The English Royal Academy of Music awarded Galina the title of "singer of the year", and in 2002 the World Association of Music Critics recognized her as the best soprano. Gorchakova's repertoire consists of more than 20 parts - from Verdi's Aida and Leonora to Volkhova and Fevronia. Galina Gorchakova performs in the best theaters in Europe - London's Covent Garden, Grand Opera in Paris, Munich Opera.
Five reasons to go to the Czech Republic in autumn and winter. What to do in the Czech Republic during this period.
Czech Republic. For some, this is an opportunity to wander through its streets, enjoying the feeling of moving in time, as if in the Middle Ages, to see a variety of palaces and churches, striking in their size and magnificence. For some, this is a temptation to enjoy the delights of local cuisine, washing down mouth-watering dishes with excellent Czech beer. Are there any reasons to spend a vacation in the fall in the Czech Republic? Let's try to find the main advantages of holidays in the Czech Republic in the autumn-winter season.
1. Inexpensive. The tourism season in the Czech Republic starts in April and ends in September. But this fact does not mean at all that starting from October there is absolutely no need to go to the Czech Republic. Holidays in the Czech Republic, starting in October, will cost tourists less than in the season.
2. Convenient. It is not necessary to fly to the Czech Republic by plane, those who prefer land transport can go by train. By the way, it's quite common. I am glad that there is no language barrier, since a large number of Russian speakers are employed in the service sector. For accommodation, you can choose both a hotel room and an apartment or a room, the private sector will be cheaper. Well, in terms of transportation, the choice is huge: this is a regular public as well as intercity buses and trains. Although, of course, to go by train from Moscow to Prague- entertainment for an amateur. Triple compartments with a washbasin and sleeping places on three floors, not as comfortable as a 3-hour flight by plane.
3. Architecture and art. Czech cities are rightfully considered one of the most beautiful cities in all of Europe. Prague, divided by the Charles Bridge into 2 parts, attracts the attention of tourists with such attractions as Wenceslas Square, Old Town Square, the Dancing House, Prague Castle, St. Vitus Cathedral and many others. But not only the capital of the Czech Republic is famous for its architectural sights. Interested in palaces - go to the province. And in the town of Karlovy Vary, you will not only fully enjoy the exquisite architecture of the 18th century, but also feel a truly unique atmosphere created by the mineral springs located here. Art connoisseurs should not miss the opportunity to visit the Franz Kafka Museum, the Alphonse Mucha Museum, and appreciate the extravagant creations of David Cerny. You can read about the Czech Republic and where you can still go from Prague.
5. Beer and cuisine. It is impossible to visit the Czech Republic and not try the local beer. The Czechs are skilled brewers, true masters of their craft. In the Czech Republic, everyone will find a foamy drink to their taste: dark, light, sweet, bitter. To complete the experience, it is better to taste beer in pubs where locals gather, and not in restaurants designed specifically for tourists. Firstly, beer will cost less in a pub, and secondly, only there you can feel the atmosphere of the real Czech Republic. Czech cuisine is dishes suitable for Czech beer: a huge assortment of meat dishes, variously cooked potatoes, fried cheese. Seafood is not very popular. Pay attention to the serving size. One can feed two people. Read about food in the Czech Republic.
Weather in the Czech Republic in autumn.
September in Prague welcomes guests with almost summer weather. The approach of autumn is slightly felt - rains are occasionally possible, but in general, the weather is dry and clear. There is no longer a relaxing heat, on the contrary, a pleasant freshness invigorates for excursions and educational trips. At this time, it is pleasant to walk along the streets of Prague, admiring the architecture and stopping by numerous cafes from time to time. At first September in the Czech Republic wine holidays begin, and tours to the Czech Republic in autumn are a great opportunity to find out what real Czech young wine. In the Czech Republic, it is called "Burchak", but in bars and cozy restaurants, those who wish can taste good wine of any age.
October in the Czech Republic does not fall year after year. It can be warm and clear, or maybe with rain. And then autumn comes into its own. But it is in October that the vegetation becomes fabulously beautiful. Red-yellow-green foliage is pleasing to the eye. Centuries-old Czech castles look even more beautiful and majestic against the backdrop of autumn landscapes. Many couples in love buy tours to the Czech Republic at this time to enjoy the charm of golden autumn and spend time in.
November weather in the Czech Republic can change a lot during the day. From snowfall to thaw, and vice versa. At this time, the flow of tourists is on the decline, due to which the prices for tours to the Czech Republic are very attractive, they become. Falling prices and. Given the high level of service in Czech health resorts, November is the time for those who want to save money. Visit museums and art galleries. At this time there is no excess of tourists in them, and you can contemplate the exhibits you like without haste. Don't leave the country without trying the real one. Do not think that in November you will not clear up in the Czech Republic, this country is beautiful at any time of the year!
No need to be upset if you didn’t manage to go on vacation in the summer months. Go to the Czech Republic in autumn or winter, when you return, you will bring with you a baggage of new sensations and impressions, but be prepared for the fact that a piece of your heart will forever remain in this fabulous, magical, amazing, beautiful and hospitable country. You can read more about Prague in winter.
10 REASONS TO GO TO PRAGUE IN AUTUMN
The red summer sang, we didn’t have time to look back ... the golden autumn has come!
You don’t want to go far, the memories of the warm sea and the Cote d'Azur are still fresh, but still you want something sincere and touching? We offer to go with us to Prague, which is especially beautiful in sunny autumn!
You can go for a week or you can go for the weekend. The result will be equally excellent.
But Prague is not Paris and Milan, which have become synonymous with fashion, not Munich, which thunders and smells of Oktoberfest, not Rome, which does not need recommendations ... but what is Prague? Is it suitable for the rest of sophisticated tourists who are used to getting all the best on vacation?
It turned out that in the autumn in Prague you can have a very pleasant time, with pleasure for the soul and body.
1. Walk around the city. Perhaps this is the main thing to do in Prague in the fall. Why in autumn? Because it is warm but not hot, cool but not cold. Very comfortable both day and night. Sunny during the day, it gets dark early in the evening and you can enjoy the light of gas lamps in the medieval lanes. You can take a guide and walk with him during the day, or at night - you can hear interesting and funny stories about Prague ghosts. What if it rains? There will be no rain, autumn in Prague is warm and dry. Enjoy! Is the city great - yes, very much! It is enough for walking days for 3-4, or even more.
2. Visit the wine chateaus of Moravia, the national salon of Czech wines and go for a tasting of local wine, among which there are amazing specimens - ice, straw wine. It's worth a try, as well as seeing with your own eyes "wine harvesting" - grape harvest festivals in Moravian and Czech villages. What is Moravia? Yes, this is part of the modern Czech Republic, completely covered with vineyards! Just an hour and a half drive from Prague - wine crypts and a delight of taste. White is better than red. Dry, almost everything. There is a wonderful sparkling, traditional method of creation. You will not regret. What? Never heard of any Moravian wines there? No wonder, the Czech Republic is a small country and the area of vineyards is only 16,000 hectares. Czechs drink this wine themselves. But European neighbors flock to Moravia to try and take a couple of boxes of this wonderful wine with them! Don't believe me - try it!
3. Go shopping. Prague has been rapidly becoming fashionable in recent years. Millions of tourists from all over the world and the Czechs themselves have brought to life an increase in the number of shops of world famous brands. Today in Prague there are all the famous brands, and in the autumn we are waiting for the opening of Chanel. Opened over a year ago, Dior on Paris Street was immediately named the most beautiful Dior boutique in Europe! We think Chanel will not want to give in and will also surprise us with design and interiors! Parisian Street is located in the heart of the Old Town and offers all the most famous brands in one place. For those who prefer more economical options - Prague is a real paradise, because Czechs love inexpensive things and good European stores are a dime a dozen here!
4. Antique shops and flea markets are another point of interest for our tourists! What are they buying there? From Napoleonic and World War I weapons, vintage jewelry, uranium glass to icons and cute trinkets! Prague is replete with antique shops where everyone can find a toy to their liking!
5. Ride at sunset on a small boat on the Vltava - delight and romance, hiding together in a blanket, with a glass of champagne, carefully prepared by our guide, see the most romantic island of Europe, Campo from the water, go into Chertovka with the engine turned off and freeze in front of the 600-year-old mill wheel, look into the eyes of the Water Cabourk and again go out into the open space of the Vltava, taking in the air that has captivated more than one generation ... Sailing under the Charles Bridge, hearing its incredible story and enjoying this wonderful moment!
6. Visit one of Prague's iconic pubs! Do Czechs believe in God, you ask? I will say - almost no .. but one religion still rules over these people! And that religion is beer! And this means that an institution where for 500 years the same family brews the same type of beer, which is served with the same snacks, on the same tables and benches, and the same songs are sung in the hall , while copper rulers on the walls count the number of people sitting per year for several centuries - this means that such an institution is practically a temple! There are many such "charitable" establishments in Prague. During the day they are calm and you can just have lunch and drink excellent beer, which, by the way, is brewed in the Czech Republic by more than 470 varieties. But in the evening ... in the evening you have to immerse yourself in the noise and hubbub of such a beer hall, surrendering headlong to the unbridled fun and fraternization of peoples .. It is not for nothing that the Czechs believe that true democracy lives in pubs - with the same mugs at the same table, they will always find something to talk about and senators, and street clochards, "homeless" .. Don't believe me? Go to the pub "At Behemoth", which is on Malaya Strana.. Or "At Flek", where both Praguers and tourists like to go...
7. Visit a couple of castles near Prague. Prague is surrounded by stunning castles. You don't need to go far - a maximum of an hour and you, surrounded by Gothic towers, impregnable walls, can see collections of weapons, hunting trophies, knightly armor and much more!
8. Visit the Prague Zoo, which adults love even more than children! Really, you won't regret it! It is in autumn, when it is neither cold nor hot, that the animals are cheerful and cheerful, and the offspring are already firmly on their feet and are happy to communicate with visitors!
9. Every evening - a new restaurant, because Prague today is Michelin stars, and more than 500 different restaurants! But this is not the main thing! The main thing is the uniqueness of these restaurants. Prague has a happy fate - for a thousand years of its earthly existence, the city almost did not collapse, and therefore abounds in stunning Renaissance and Baroque palaces, Gothic vaults, crypts and stunning terraces, which offer a breathtaking view of the city. Combined with first-class gastronomy, this is a real masterpiece! Visit, for example, the restaurant "At the Golden Well" and you will understand what I'm talking about! Oh, and don't forget the Moravian wine! It will be offered to you in every restaurant.
10. Make a wish on the Charles Bridge and become completely happy! All wishes come true, we know that for sure. Where? Because you are returning .. to us, to Prague! The phenomenon of Prague is understandable and incomprehensible at the same time, we cannot explain it! One thing is clear - whoever stepped on the Prague paving stones, which is more than 200 years old, falls in love with Prague forever and then comes here again and again .. Try it, we are waiting for you in Prague!
Greetings from Prague, Your Akoulina (Arina Kulikova)
Golden Autumn and Golden Prague
Points of interest, Tourist's note, Travel report in Czech Republic, Prague, Prague 1; Czech Republic, Prague, Prague 2; Czech Republic, Beroun
This unexpectedly early snow makes me so sad... For some reason, my husband went to the dacha to do construction work. And I begged the children for three and a half days of October autumn.
Yes, and we ourselves have become unexpected in old age. We were going to Portugal, we already dreamed of bright azulejos, a powerful ocean and a lingering fado. And then "bang" - and we are in Prague!
So many people are in love with Prague that it is very difficult to write about how you liked it! And I, perhaps, will not describe our walks in time sequence. I'll just share the most memorable.
I. Probably NOT strange! But Prague for me is a view of Prague Castle and Charles Bridge. This is, of course, the visiting card of the city, and maybe the whole Czech Republic. You will visit here, and you have already seen the most-most Prague place.
Prague Castle and Legia Bridge
View of the Charles Bridge from the island of Kampa
One morning on the trip we decided to dedicate participation in the attraction "Meeting the Dawn on the Charles Bridge". Amazing magical performance! We had a foggy morning. Chilled to the bone. But this is remembered for a lifetime: full twilight was replaced by an inky morning, turning into a silver-gray day.
By the way, there are a sufficient number of such "smart" people. Ranks of people with tripods in some places completely blocked the bridge. But there was enough mystery for everyone!
International team.
II. Vltava river- decoration of Prague. I have repeatedly convinced myself that cities (even the most beautiful ones), if they do not stand on the banks of the river, are very inferior to their "river" counterparts in some kind of charm, or something. After all, Paris and the Seine, London and the Thames, Rome and the Tiber, Florence and the Arno, and even Nizhny Novgorod and the Volga are inseparable! Therefore, it is great that there are so many places in Prague where you can walk with pleasure and look at a series of magnificent Prague bridges from a height.
This Letensky Gardens. One of the most memorable views of the Vltava opens from here.
View from the Letensky Gardens.
Photo session in the Letensky Gardens.
The garden itself is an ordinary walking area. There is a cafe and an art object "Metronome"
Visegrad. Although it will take some effort to tear yourself away from the center of Prague, it is still worth visiting this cozy place. There is a magnificent promenade along the fortress walls, a lot of comfortable benches. The views both towards the Prague Castle and the outskirts of the city, where the Vltava attracts so much, are very memorable. In addition, the openwork domes of the Gothic Cathedral of Peter and Paul are visible from many paths of the park and decorate the walk.
View of the Vltava from Vysehrad
Hill Petrin. We did not manage to climb to the very top, as the funicular, for some unknown reason, did not work. However, there was no limit to those wishing to reach the heights of Petrin Hill!
Tough road up.
But we managed to get an idea of the beauty of Prague from here.
View from Petrin Hill
III. Small and very atmospheric corners of Prague, where there are relatively few visitors and a lot of beauty.
Vrtbovskie gardens. At the intersection of st. Karmelitska and Trzhiste (these are two steps from Prague Castle), turning into the arch of house number 25, you find yourself in a completely magical place. You buy a ticket at the box office and walk through the gardens, which were opened to visitors in 1998. The gardens adjoin the Vrtba Palace and were designed and arranged by the order of Count Vrtba by the architect F. Kanka, the sculptor M. Braun and the artist V. Rainer in 1715-1720. The gardens have three tiers. On the third tier, from the Glorieta of the Vrtbov Garden, an unforgettable view of the Prague Castle, as well as the Church of Mary the Victorious, opens up.
Arch through which you pass into the gardens
Lower tier gardens
Ponds in the garden
Church of Mary the Victor
Three tiers of the garden are visible
In the October sun it is so nice to bask on the benches of the garden
Camp Island. Why am I writing about the island of Kampa, which is well known to everyone? An endless river of people flows along the central axis Old Town Square - Charles Bridge - Prague Castle. And there is a small trail nearby. Step on it and you are in another world. Here the Tsvetaevsky knight Bruntsvik looks at you from the pedestal:
"Pale-faced Guardian
Above the splashing waves
knight knight,
guarding the river..."
"I have a friend in Prague, a stone knight, very similar to me in face ..." M. Tsvetaeva
Modestly looking at everyone with its famous window is the House of Anna, who saved Prague with her faith and prayer during the flood of 1892. Here is the icon of the Virgin Mary with an ever-burning (now electric) lamp. It was Anna who asked for mercy when the rebellious Vltava reached the level of the attic, where she tried to hide. And the Lord heard her! On both sides of the window there are rollers from a calender (an ironing machine), as evidence of the miracle of the icon. One day, a misfortune happened to the maid who lives in the house. The hand got between the rollers during operation. The girl began to pray in despair to the icon of the Virgin Mary and the machine stopped. The hand was saved. And the calender was in the courtyard of the house until May 1945.
Rolls from the calender on the sides of the miraculous icon.
A few steps along the Vltava and we come to the artificial channel Chertovka. It was here, according to one of the legends, that the grumpy Aloisia Nemtsova arranged intrigues and squabbles. Her house began to be called "At the Three Devils", and then the channel was given that name. We are now admiring the Prague Venice and the Bridge of Lovers, which is hung with locks of happiness to such an extent that one can hardly see the good water spirit Kaburek and the wheel of the Velkoprzhevorsky mill.
Wallenstein Garden- another quiet place in the very center of Prague. A couple of steps from the metro station Malostranska and you can enjoy the views of the Palace and the garden. The Czech Senate sits in the Wallenstein Palace. The garden is free for tourists. During the construction of this complex in 1623-1630, 7 gardens, 22 houses and the Trchkov Palace were demolished. The initiator of the construction was governor Albrecht. Palace in early baroque style.
Wallenstein Palace
The garden Mannerist stalactite wall is designed to represent the contrast between natural beauty and the built environment. Does the job well, in my opinion.
Stalactite wall in the garden
Prague Loreta. Loreta is a symbolic building, personifying the hut in Nazareth, where the Virgin Mary lived. In it, she heard from Gabriel a prophecy about the birth of the Savior. The first such building appeared in Europe in the Italian town of Loreto. In 1626, by order of Countess Ekaterina of Lobkowicz, the Prague Loreta, one of the most impressive in Europe, was also built.
Amazingly beautiful, quiet place in Hradcany, not far from the Prague Castle. A leisurely stroll through this area will bring a lot of pleasure.
On the city streets
Close to Loreta and Strahov Monastery. You can combine these places for inspection. The monastery belongs to the Premonstratensian order of monks. The first building was built in 1140. Subsequently, it was rebuilt several times. The monastery complex is vast. It includes, among other things, the Monastery Museum, the Art Gallery, the library, the Museum of Miniatures, the Monument of National Literature and an excellent brewery that produces its own brand of beer "Norbert" (Norbert, the founder of the monastic order).
On the territory of the Strahov Monastery
Troy Castle. Troja Castle is located in close proximity to the Prague Zoo. Get from the metro station Nadrazi Holesovice by bus number 112. From the stop "zoo" in one direction is the zoo itself, and across the road is the entrance to the territory of Troy Castle. There is a "Troy card" - a single ticket to the castle, the zoo and the botanical garden, located right there nearby. The castle itself is as bright as a toy. Small size. Apparently, it is often used for wedding ceremonies, various kinds of celebrations. We just walked around the park, it was warm and we didn't want to leave.
Troy Castle Park and the castle itself
IV. ABOUT FOOD! For myself, I finally realized that cooking with close friends Austria-Germany-Czech Republic is not quite to my taste. It’s just that I don’t like that very fried crust on all meat dishes without exception. This is purely my perception! We tasted: a boar's knee, of course; Moravian sparrow with dumplings; duck with cabbage; vole-goulash in bread; fried cheese with a potato pillow and all sorts of sweet desserts. Most of all I liked lunch in Melnik at the Pirate Restaurant. Triangular potato cutlets and steak. Simple, not overcooked, not oversalted, delicious! Beer is beyond praise everywhere, even though we are not connoisseurs. We liked the dark, sweet one the most. But at the expense of the famous "omachek" I did not understand. Nowhere did they give us something or offer it. So, photo sequence:
Boar knee! We have already eaten it. For two, it turned out to be a lot.
Restaurant "At Laura". We were alone in the hall. We liked the service. st. Nerudova, the very center, the prices are normal.
Fried cheese with a potato pillow. Beer "Kozlovna".
Lunch at Beroun. The Moravian sparrow turned out to be the same pork. The institution, although it was called a Restaurant, is an ordinary dining room for local residents. Many took food to go. We liked the environment. Everything is simple and cheap. Yes, and delicious, of course!
Lunch in Melnik. Pirate restaurant. The waitress girls really wanted to please us, they didn’t understand Russian either gu-gu. The most delicious lunch ever!
V. The Czech language and the myth of how Czechs know Russian. Let no one take offense at me. Maybe we're just unlucky. But except for the porter in our hotel and an elderly Czech in the exchange office, no one showed us knowledge of the Russian language. And some simply made it clear that "they are not like that." For the first time in all our trips, we encountered, although very well hidden, but hostility. They heard that we were Russians and somehow became isolated. Of course, not everywhere and not all. But now I felt that there is a "tank"!
Camp Island. Embankment of the Vltava.
In other countries, if they found out that we were Russians, they showed approval and support. Although, of course, most ordinary people are friendly. Young people hardly know Russian. Yes, and the elderly, for so many years have already forgotten.
Then, the Czech language is not very clear to me. I'm so incapable of languages. As Irina did not explain to me, that everything is clear, but the word "divadlo" did not associate with "theater" in any way. Although the root "marvel" is obvious. And so on down the list.
VI. About Divadlo. It took us to the theatre. I read that such an unusual theater, magic is simple. Yes, and now I'm reading on the Internet and I just can't believe my eyes that it's all about "Laterna Magica" is written. Here on the site there is a description of the theater. The only thing is that the building was built in 1977 and not in 1992. Never go there. The history of the theater began with a performance staged for the World Industrial Exhibition in Brussels in 1958. For that time, it was probably a super innovation. Since the 1970s, the theater has been part of the National Theatre. The building is original. But the spectacle is wretched, as is the auditorium. There is not a single whole chair, everything is in patches! We watched the performance "Cocktail", that is, the best performances in all the years. Well, I remember the first number. On a black and white screen, a clown on roller skates rolls through the streets of Prague. Then he steps off the screen onto the stage. Dance with girls on roller skates. And then he goes back to the world of cinema. The rest of the numbers are a mixture of ballet and acrobatics against the background of beautiful computer pictures.
Theater building Laterna Magica (Magic Lantern)
During the construction, green Cuban marble was used.
Auditorium. Mostly foreign viewers, like us.
So you have visited this "magic" place!
In general, I really remember that on Friday evenings and weekends, Prague trams are filled with ladies of different ages in black dresses, with varnished radicules and, of course, in pearl earrings! They go to the theater and to concerts! So nice to watch! One of the most touching moments!
View of the Prague Castle from the Glorieta of the Vrtbov Garden
GOLDEN AUTUMN AND GOLDEN PRAGUE...
This unexpectedly early snow makes me so sad... For some reason, my husband went to the dacha to do construction work. And I begged the children for three and a half days of October autumn. Yes, and we ourselves have become unexpected in old age. We were going to Portugal, already...
Prague autumn
Places of Interest, Culture, Travel Report in Czech Republic, Prague
Prague needs no special introduction. When you come here, you immediately understand that you are in one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Charles Bridge, Old Town Square, Orloj clock - millions of tourists come to the city every year to see the sights of Prague. And yet, the main reason why we all go to Prague is the special spirit of this city, a special mood that is transmitted to everyone who has been here.
Everyone has their own Prague - someone likes to wander along the picturesque embankments and parks, someone comes here to drink beer and eat boar knee with dumplings, someone - for classical music, which sounds in the evenings in many central churches. Any Prague is beautiful.
We came to Prague for the November holidays - in the midst of the golden Prague autumn.
Grass number 22 is a great way to rest tired legs. You get into it on Charles Square and drive through the Vltava, along the Malaya Strana, gradually climbing uphill to the Prague Castle.
In general, transport in the city is well developed. Trams run every few minutes and successfully cope with a large flow of citizens and tourists. There are also three metro lines, but in such a beautiful city you don’t want to use them, especially since in the historical center distances are covered faster by tram or even on foot.
We drive past the famous cafe "Slavia" - the night before we had dinner here, marking the arrival in Prague. The goulash and veal dish "Svichkova with dumplings" were delicious. Although "Slavia" is better known for its cakes - since the opening in 1881 it has been a favorite gathering place for creative intelligentsia. The former president of the Czech Republic, Vaclav Havel, was also a frequenter of this cafe. After the restoration, the interior of the 1930s in the Art Deco style was restored in the cafe. We sat at a table overlooking the Vltava.
It is best to start exploring the city from Prague Castle, arriving at its upper gate on the same tram 22. Along the street At Prazhny Bridge, past the Royal Gardens, which were closed in November, we immediately find ourselves in the second courtyard of the Castle.
View of the Castle from the street near Prazhny Bridge
Prague Castle is guarded by smart guards, a parade changing of the guard is held once a day, but this tradition is recent and is designed mainly for our tourist brother.
Although there is someone and something to guard in the Castle, it is still the current residence of the President of the Czech Republic. If the flag of the Czech Republic flies over the royal palace, it means that the president is in place. So it was on the day of our arrival, but we did not notice any expensive cars, as well as the pandemonium of officials. The castle, as usual, was besieged only by crowds of tourists.
The castle has a great history - it used to be the residence of Czech kings and even some emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. The castle is located on a high hill in Hradcany and towers over Prague. The emergence of the Prague Castle is associated with the first Czech princely dynasty of the Přemyslids, who at first owned only Central Bohemia, and later became a royal family. The dynasty got its name after the peasant plowman Přemysl, who became prince over the Czechs at the behest of Princess Libuše. Such is the legend.
The first stone princely palace was built here in the 12th century. But a thorough reconstruction of the castle was made by the most famous Czech king Charles the Fourth. In 1354, Charles IV became Holy Roman Emperor and made Prague Castle his residence. In general, in Prague and the Czech Republic, a lot is connected with Charles the Fourth - just remember such major tourist attractions as Charles Bridge and Karshtejn Castle. Charles the Fourth rebuilt the royal palace of the Castle, strengthened the fortifications of the castle.
Prague Castle was built and remodeled for many centuries, and today it is not only the residence of the head of state, but, above all, a significant monument of culture and history.
The dominant of the Castle is St. Vitus Cathedral, which is visible from almost the entire city. It is huge and gloomy, like all Gothic architecture. The full name of the temple is the Cathedral of Saints Vitus, Wenceslas and Vojtech. St. Vitus Cathedral is a colloquial abbreviated version. The construction of the cathedral began in 1344, and ended only in 1929, that is, it lasted almost six centuries.
St. Vitus Cathedral
Outside, the cathedral is richly decorated with sculptures, stone and bronze reliefs. Inside, the eye falls primarily on the central nave with ribbed mesh vaults - it is built in such a way that it gives grace to a massive cathedral. And, of course, colored stained-glass windows, which were created by many artists, including the main Czech modernist artist Alfons Mucha, attract attention inside.
And from the walls of the Prague Castle opens an amazing panorama of Prague. The whole city is in front of us - here is the famous Charles Bridge, here is the Church of the Virgin Mary in front of Tyn on the Old Town Square, here is the National Theater. And, of course, the panorama of the Vltava is beautiful - its bends, bridges. And all this surrounded by the red roofs of Prague. In autumn, in combination with yellow foliage, the city looks especially elegant.
City view from Prague Castle
Red roofs of Prague
The walking descent from the Castle leads us to another district of the Czech capital - Mala Strana. It is located on the left bank of the Vltava below Gradchan. Mala Strana is a very quiet area with neat houses and clean streets. This is the Prague that gives a feeling of quiet joy. Narrow streets with a peaceful atmosphere, relatively few tourists - such places are conducive to unhurried walks.
Step out onto the bank of the Vltava – from here you can see the classic view of the Charles Bridge, which artists love so much. Admire the swans - they have chosen this place many years ago, and do not change their habits. Sit on a bench and just admire this unexpectedly quiet beauty in the noise of tourist Prague.
View of the Charles Bridge from the Malaya Strana embankment
Ship on the Vltava
If you are hungry, you should go to the restaurant "At Schweik". It is unlikely that this decent restaurant is related to the establishments in which both Schweik himself and the creator of his image, the writer Yaroslav Hasek, liked to sit. But the goulash soup prepared here, like the traditional Czech pie, was quite good. And it is a sin not to use such a hero as Schweik in propaganda of the main achievement of the Czechs - terribly tasty and unhealthy cuisine, the foundations of which are beer, meat and dumplings.
Pivnitsa U Schweik
Mala Strana is an area that has competed with the right-bank district of Stare Mesto throughout the history of Prague. The location between the river and Prague Castle led to the fact that feudal lords and wealthy citizens settled here. Now in the Lesser Town there are diplomatic missions of many countries, the Czech parliament and the government. There are many palaces here - Wallenstein, Liechtenstein, Shenborn. Impressive huge church of St. Nicholas.
Kampa is located south of the Charles Bridge - this island on the Vltava is commonly called Prague's Venice. But Kampa reminded me and my wife of Amsterdam. Kampa is separated from the Lesser Country by the Chertovka stream, created in the 12th century to set the mill wheel in motion. Today it is only part of the landscape of Kampa. The best view of the mill wheel is from the Charles Bridge. There is another pleasant place on Kampa - on one of the bridges across the Devil's River, couples leave colorful locks and thus swear love to each other.
Kampa is Prague's Venice.
In the northern part of Kampa, these are strict buildings of the Renaissance period. And in the south - a park made in the English style. And here is the Museum of Modern Art, opened not so long ago - in 2003. The central part of the street composition of the museum is a huge stool erected on a river pier - as if for a fabulous giant to sit on it and admire the Charles Bridge. Cute yellow plastic penguins nestle nearby - they are used for lighting at night. And two huge statues of crawling babies in the park near the museum building were given to the children.
In front of the Museum of Modern Art. On the other side of the Vltava - the building of the National Theater
From Kampa we return to the Charles Bridge, founded in 1357 by the same famous King Charles the Fourth. Of course, this is the main attraction of Prague. It is said that the locals, due to the abundance of tourists, avoid the Charles Bridge. And in vain - this is the main viewpoint of Prague. Wherever you look, beautiful views open up - to Prague Castle, to Kampa, to Stare Mesto, to the National Theater. Take a leisurely walk along the bridge, looking at the sculptures and works of street artists that adorn it. I remember one Czech who sold discs with music by the famous Czech composer Smetana on the bridge. He ran around his tray, danced, waved his arms, as if conducting.
On the Charles Bridge
Charles Bridge is decorated with 30 sculptures. The most famous of them is the statue of St. John of Nepomuk. According to legend, he was thrown off the Charles Bridge for refusing to tell King Wenceslas IV the secret of the queen's confession. Beautiful legend.
On both sides of the bridge are high medieval towers. The Old Town Bridge Tower serves as a passageway to Stare Mesto; its observation deck offers a beautiful view of Prague Castle.
Along the narrow streets we move from the bridge to the main square of the city - Old Town Square. Barkers hand out invitations to organ music concerts in Prague churches along the way. Such concerts are held every day.
And finally, we are at the Old Town Square. At the medieval clock Orloi (15th century) - crowds of people. It will be five o'clock soon, which means that the clock will show a performance that takes place here every hour - the chimes strike and the figures come to life. The skeleton pulls the bell rope, the angel raises and lowers the sword. In the windows of the clock, the faces of the apostles replace each other. At the end of the performance, a rooster crows. The action does not last long, about five minutes.
Old Town Square. On the left is the famous Orloi clock.
The Old Town Square is beautiful during the day, and in the evening, when the illumination of the Church of the Virgin Mary in front of Tyn and the Old Town Hall turns on, especially. Facades of houses painted in different colors look picturesque. In the Middle Ages, it was a market square where they traded and executed. Here is a monument to Jan Hus, the national Czech hero, the ideologue of the Reformation, who, as it should be in those days (15th century), was burned at the stake. A legend is connected with his execution - when he saw that a pious old woman was putting a bundle of brushwood into his fire, Jan Hus exclaimed: "Oh, holy simplicity!" In general, it is difficult for a modern person to understand the gloomy mores of medieval Europe.
We were lucky - on November 5, the New Wine Festival was celebrated on the Old Town Square. Trays with wines were placed everywhere, as well as traditional Czech food. Huge pork hams were smoked in one corner of the fair, cheese was fried in another, and trdlo (butter Czech delicacy) was spun in the third. I had to try everything and wash down delicious Czech food with hot mulled wine. And in the center of the square, an amateur group of three lively Czech pensioners "lit up". Judging by their cheerful mood, the young wine went for the future.
Fair on the Old Town Square
Perky street group
From the Old Town Square, along Celetna Street, we reached the Powder Tower (this is the gathering place for Russian tourist groups in Prague). The Powder Tower is the beginning of the famous Royal Road leading through Stare Mesto and Charles Bridge to Prague Castle. We did this road in the opposite direction.
After dinner, we went to Wenceslas Square - the center of modern Prague and the Nove Mesto district. In the Middle Ages, there was a horse market here, but now hotels, restaurants and shops are located on the square. Vaclavak (this is a colloquial name) is more like a wide boulevard. Here is the building of the National Museum, in front of which stands the equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas, the patron saint of the Czech land.
Wenceslas Square is a special place for Czechs. In 1918, the writer Alois Jirasek read here the proclamation of Czechoslovakia's independence from Austria-Hungary. In 1942, the Czechs massively swore allegiance to the Reich on the square, and in 1945 they proclaimed victory over the Nazis and the end of the war. Here the creation of socialist Czechoslovakia was announced, and in 1968 Soviet tanks passed through the square (for which the Czechs, for all their friendliness, still cannot forgive us). In 1989, Wenceslas Square became the center of the Velvet Revolution in Czechoslovakia, where Vaclav Havel spoke to a crowd of thousands.
In the Czech Republic, communism has a special attitude ...
I advise you to look into the largest Prague bookstore "Luxor" located on the square - buy yourself one of the many calendars of Prague as a keepsake.
Evening Prague offers various options for spending time. You can sit in a traditional restaurant, drink beer and eat the famous boar knee (baked pork knuckle). Admirers of the beautiful are advised to go to the National Theatre, the Philharmonic or attend an organ music concert in one of the churches. The Krzhizhikovy fountains at Prague's Vystavishte (analogue of the Moscow All-Russian Exhibition Center) are also popular. In the evening, color and music performances are arranged on the fountains to classical music or movie soundtracks.
And the next day - again walk around Prague! Do not forget to visit Petřín Hill, which offers a panorama of the city, walk along the quiet streets of Vysehrad. Get off the tourist trails and visit the traditional Prague district of Vinohrady to get a feel for how ordinary Czechs live. Prague is beautiful - remember these feelings so that you can remember them for a long time, looking at photos of Prague autumn.
Quiet Prague autumn
Praga needs no special introduction. When you come here, you immediately understand that you are in one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Charles Bridge, Old Town Square, Orloj clock - to see the sights of Prague, people come to the city every year ...
