Holding rocks on the river. holding. An island of Siberian nature in the Tver province

General remarks:

The route is non-binding. There is no point in discussing the wandering maxim according to various reports that the Derzhya is a “river of the Karelian type” because of its complete absurdity. About any sporting interest, even the smallest, can be said only under a rare set of circumstances, when the water level is “slightly above average”. At a high flood, all the few stone obstacles will be flooded with water, and at low water, all these obstacles turn into a depressing, demoralizing skinner. Our water was low, with all the consequences ...

Drop:

There are a lot of options for casting, although all of them are not very convenient. In the upper and middle reaches of the river there are many settlements that can be reached. It makes sense for a big team to order a car directly from Moscow. True, of all the villages and towns on the Derzh, a more or less decent road leads, apparently, only to the New, so that the Moscow carrier may not go to other places. For more economical and small teams, there are the following options: by train Moscow - Rzhev to Knyazhie Gory or to Pogorely Gorodishche, then a car to the river.
It makes sense to start directly from the Burnt Gorodishche itself only if you also attach a piece of the Volga to the route along the Derzha. Another option is to get to Shakhovskaya by train, then by car. You can still try to get on the "cuckoo" from Shakhovskaya to the same Knyazhy Gory, but it is only one a day in the morning.

Route description:

If the water is low, as it was with us, then wherever you start, the picture will be about the same - a skinner. As the brave guys who started from the upper reaches say, there are still blockages, beaver dams and low footbridges. We started from the village of New. There is nothing to talk about before Pogorely Gorodishche, there are many obstacles on the river, but these are shallows or, at best, rifts, with higher water, they have a chance to become shivers. The river winds heavily, but there are very few places for “combs” or creases. Fishing stakes with muzzles standing in them can also become additional obstacles. The rest is boring. The water in the upper and middle reaches is turbid, seemingly rotten. Apparently, in her in large numbers contains a suspension of clay particles, since the banks and bottom are clayey. The shores are dreary - meadows with willows, there is no need to talk about a full-fledged forest, although there are places for spending the night.
After Pogorely Gorodishche, the banks become higher, 5-10-meter sandy slopes and “rocky” limestone outcrops appear. Large fragments of limestone come across in the channel, which gives some rifts a certain “charm”. On higher water, several of these rifts can turn into lively shiverkas, and one of them, located at the end of this entire “canyon” section, about twelve kilometers below the Burnt Gorodishche, can even be called a threshold. Then it becomes sad again, although the banks mostly remain cheerful, overgrown with trees, even pine trees appear, and the water in the river is practically cleared of visible impurities.
We went on the road bridge near the village of Mozgovo, since rafting along the Volga river is no longer water trip, and rowing.

The village of Mozgovo is a kind of window into civilization for the entire lower Support. The road passing through it begins God knows where, but connects the village with the mainland. One of the points on this road, 12-15 km away, is the city of Zubtsov, from which you can leave by train Rzhev-Moscow, however, somewhere around 3 am. All other options are a car to Tver or immediately to Moscow.

Attractions:

downstream Hold is not without some pleasantness. In the presence of fantasy, sandy and limestone shores, starting after the Burnt Settlement, can be called "canyons" or "rocks". In some places, if you wish, you can climb on them. There are fish in the river, they catch, of course, with nets. Here, however, there is practically nowhere to swim in Derzh ...
I didn’t see the sights of the city of Zubtsov, but studying the history of the Second World War a little, you can understand that they don’t exist ...

Bridge railway Necklace - Nodal, platform "168th km"

bridge lat=54.3974497 lon=38.2354689 , platform 100 m to the north on the outskirts of Khruslovka
Diesel trains Uzlovaya - Necklace - Uzlovaya.

Just below the bridge is a tractor ford across the Sturgeon. From here it is convenient to start rafting, further the river is quite passable for a kayak in a normal summer water. There is a moderate amount of anthropogenic debris in the river (for some reason, there are especially many wheels from tractors), logs come across, about a kilometer below a monumental blockage was encountered, which required a carry-over. There are also several very small rocky rifts, usually with entrances and used as car fords or for fishing.
Schedule of trains on the square. "168th km" from Yandex

The village of Zvoisky settlements (Predtechevo), the remains of the fortifications of the Zasechnaya Line "Graboronovy (Grabonovy) gates"

left, village: lat=54.4110385 lon=38.2672691 , remnants of rampart 1-2 km northeast between lat=54.416283 lon=38.2822037 and lat=54.4299155 lon=38.2882977

The village of Zvoi settlements - the former village of Predtechevo, the estate of the Uvarovs located in it, has not been preserved. Among the fields between Vyselki and the neighboring villages of Grabonovo (Ivanovka) and the Village of Ilyicha, the remains of the ramparts of the Zasechnaya Line have been preserved; here on it there was a fortification "Grabonovy Vorota", practically torn down in Soviet times.
Site "Venevsky district" (veneva.ru): Predtechevo Village, Graboron Gates
Wikimapia: Fortification of the Grabon Gate

Mouth of the Venyovka River

right, lat=54.3968751 lon=38.2844353

Holy spring "12 keys"

on the right, SWW from the Venevka mouth about 2 km upstream, lat=54.3944297 lon=38.264147
The road from Venev through the village. Sviridovsky

The spring is located on the left side of Venyovka just above the “confluence” of the Dry Osetrets dry valley, opposite the village of Second Sviridovo. Directly from the foot of the coastal cliff, from under a small stone wall, water flows out, collecting in a large stream; just below the source, a wooden font is installed on it. The glade between the stream and Venyovka is used for folklore holidays. On the same side of Venyovka, on the high left bank of the upland, a white stone cross is visible, apparently marking the place of ancient burials. You can read more about this place, for example, here: Klyanin R.V. Epic legends about archeological monuments or on the site "Venevsky district"

Quarries near Venyovka

Active: on the right (eastern) bank of the Venevka opposite the First Sviridovo, 4 km north of Venev, lat=54.384906 lon=38.275895 . Abandoned: to the south and southeast of the current one for a kilometer.

A wide and deep limestone quarry cut into the hills of the right bank of Venevka. The developed part is very deep - sixty meters, 4 ledges, with excavators, dump trucks and blasting. Nearby are abandoned and partially buried developments, extensive and also several ledges. A road from the current one leads to the northwestern edge of the abandoned part, at its end there is a huge dump of Jurassic clay. The clay itself is gray, bluish, yellow and red; it contains large belemnites and pieces of crystalline gypsum, shining like crushed plexiglass.

The Klyuchi tract, dry valleys, the villages of Grabonovo (Ivanovka) and Klyuchevoe

tract on the right approximately lat=54.3967252 lon=38.3070946 , dry valley lat=54.4004606 lon=38.3163217 , village Grabonovo on the left, Klyuchevoye - on the right, another dry valley 0.5 km below Klyuchevoe lat=54.4091658 lon=38.343058

A kilometer after the confluence of the Venevka, the right bank of the Osetra rises strongly; its steep earthen slope is overgrown with a gloomy forest, called "Klyuchi tract natural monument". On the lower terrace, there really are several powerful springs; The sturgeon here is wide, small, fast and cold, with sharp stones at the bottom.
After the forest, the right bank goes down and a large dry valley "flows" into the Sturgeon, starting two kilometers to the south and notable for the abundance of ponor funnels in its channel. Along the beam there is a primer leading to the ford through the Sturgeon. On the other side of the Osetra, a little further from the river, there is the village of Grabonovo (Ivanovka), somewhere near it, among the fields, the remains of the fortifications of the Zasechnaya Line (Grabonovy Vorota, see above) have been preserved; on the coastal slope, the remains of swollen earthworks are also visible here.
On the right bank even further away is the village of Klyuchevoe, whose houses in summer are almost invisible through the mighty thickets of nettles, hogweed burdock and other floodplain vegetation. On the maps, a bridge is indicated here, in reality - another ford.
Below the Key on the right comes another large beam.

High road bridge, Shchuchye village, threshold, beam

bridge lat=54.4190798 lon=38.3497953 , village lower on the right bank, threshold 1.5 km below the bridge at the mouth of dry valley lat=54.422462 lon=38.375136
Regular bus from Venev

In the center of Shchuchye, a pre-revolutionary estate has been preserved, now it houses the "House of the Disabled" ().

Half a kilometer below the Shchuchye, the right bank is especially high, with huge limestone blocks and rocks sticking out. This mountain is cut through by a deep and wide beam, extending into the fields for about three kilometers; it is not entirely correct to call it a dry valley, since a stream flows higher in it, only at the mouth it is lost in the depths of a stone massif.
In front of the mouth of the beam, the Sturgeon forms a large pool and immediately after it the threshold with a drop of about a meter, the channel splits into two channels. The left one is straight and narrow, starting from a high step; the right one is smaller, makes a large loop and is blocked in several places by fallen trees. Year in 2002, the threshold at middle water it was possible to pass on the "Pike"; how realistic it is now - it is not clear. Further on for many kilometers in the channel there are many fallen trees, there are blockages.

Stone Mountain tract (Pike town), Sokolovskaya (Kharinskaya) cave, rocks, ancient quarry

on the left, cave approximately lat=54.440759 lon=38.386877 , rocks below for a kilometer

A particularly large outcrop of stone along the left bank of the Osetra was called the "tract stone mountain". From the mouth of a deep beam begins a rocky cliff twenty meters high, above it at the edge of the field there is a small platform with a bow cross, surrounded by a semicircle of an earthen rampart with a diameter of twenty meters and a height of one and a half or two. These are the remains of a small fortress, which is associated either with the Zasechnaya Line Moscow state of the 16th-17th centuries (Klyanin R.V.), or with the "city of Sturgeon" of the ancient Russian Ryazan principality (website "Venevsky district"). The federal list of historical monuments defines it as "the ancient settlement of Shchuchy town, 12th - 13th centuries. AD, 1.5 km southwest of the village of Sokolovka. last years popular with outdoor enthusiasts Fresh air- on holidays there are up to a dozen cars here.

Not far from western edge cliff at its foot is the entrance to the cave. It is small - a diameter of about 12 meters, according to Yu. Dolotov. In winter, a snow heap and ice streaks form in it, and an ice crust remains on the floor until summer. In one of the walls there is a characteristic niche for an icon - a kiot, as well as traces of stone blocks being cut down. The inscription on the bow cross above states that "according to legend, the first Christian ascetic lived in a cave under the Shchuchy settlement in the 13th century."
Photo report on the site Underrealizm, photo report on the site 4turista, old description.

Half a kilometer below the settlement on the same bank there is another stone outcrop, which is a very old and overgrown with trees quarry five hundred meters long, in some places with sheer walls up to 10-15 m high and with rubble dumps under them. In it you can find two more small caves, laid along tectonic cracks.

Village Pier, threshold

village on the right, threshold below the village lat=54.441445 lon=38.431665

The village is on the high right bank, a little away from the river. After it, a small bend to the left and in it a threshold of two stone dams, a drop of half a meter. A car ford runs right through it.

The mouth of the Mordves River, the villages of Bolshoe Rogatovo and Novomoigory, a road bridge and a threshold

mouth on the left lat=54.4554206 lon=38.4874249 ; bridge a kilometer below lat=54.455221 lon=38.4994411
Arrival: from Uzunovo station by bus to Borshevo, from there on foot 5 km

The Tula region ended, the Moscow region began. The river flows through the fields.
At the mouth of the Mordves in Osetra there is a large pool; Mordves itself has a depth of more than half a meter, but 200 meters north of it there is a bridge made of concrete slabs.
A kilometer below, after the village of Novomoigory, a high new concrete road bridge stands above Osetr. Directly in front of the bridge there is a threshold - a stone dam, the difference is less than half a meter.

Mouth of the Polosnya River

right, lat=54.4656481 lon=38.5283661

The Polosnya River is of independent interest. The current is weak, the channel is unexpectedly deep - up to a meter or more, the water is cold and clear. The valley is incised for fifty meters, outcrops of limestone rocks are not uncommon.

12 km south of the mouth, near the village of Lishnyagi, there is a large and deep freshly abandoned limestone quarry, as well as traces of old stone mining on the right bank and even small caves. Somewhere in those parts in ancient times was the city of Belgorod-Ryazan.

Three kilometers above the village of Belogorodskoye, the main channel of the Polosni, coming from the south, dries up. Water comes from the left tributary, starting at the village of Balti; a kilometer southwest of its mouth are the vast ruins of the Beltsevskaya coal mine, which worked for only a month and was emergency closed in 2000 due to flooding. By 2014, a large water intake for the needs of Novomoskovsk should be built from it (more precisely, from 20 of its 210 drainage wells).

High concrete bridge of the M6 ​​"Caspian" highway, the villages of Boksha and Tolstye, a pond

bridge lat=54.4709853 lon=38.53549
Check-in by metro bus Krasnogvardeyskaya - Silver Ponds, stop "Boksha" is located 300 meters behind the bridge

On both banks of the Sturgeon - villages and holiday villages. After the high road bridge, the pond created by the dam in Kurbatovo begins; summer residents go boating on it. Under the village of Tolstoy, the left bank is especially high, there are outcrops of white stone.
Bus schedule to/from Serebryanye Prudy

Dam, pedestrian bridge and threshold near the village of Kurbatovo

lat=54.4778678 lon=38.5711956

The dam keeps pretty large reservoir, but extremely unsightly in appearance. Above the drain there is a low pedestrian bridge ik from concrete slabs. Immediately after it, a threshold of several steps begins on Osetra, the difference is not less than 1.5 m, the main channel goes straight along the heap of stone blocks. After the steps there is a rapid, then the current slows down and a deep gloomy canyon-like area begins. The right bank, looking from below as a steep and high mountain- in fact, a narrow, 40 meters, stone pillar, behind which there are pits and thickets of the old Kurbatov quarry.

Quarries near the village of Kurbatovo

near the dam on both sides of the Sturgeon

On the right bank, the quarry starts almost immediately from the dam (previous article). As of the spring of 2012, it is operational, there is a working stone crusher, tractors and excavators, a normal entrance about a kilometer long from the Venev - Serebryanye Prudy highway.
Below, along the right bank, old developments stretch for about a kilometer, long abandoned, swollen and overgrown with forest. Among them stands a huge reinforced concrete box - either an unfinished bunker or a water intake (description on the 4turista website). Local lovers of the exotic dashed off a separate race from the highway to this territory through its far, northeast corner. There is not much garbage; Quite colorful are 10-15-meter cliffs that limit the workings from the side of the river.

The quarries on the left side of the Osetra are located half a kilometer from the river, one to the north, the other to the northeast of the dam. They, too, have been abandoned for a long time and are heavily overgrown; most east corner turned into trash. They contain large shells of brachiopods (or rather, their internal casts); there are inconspicuous brownish-greenish flints; quartz and chalcedony were not found.

About 1.5 km below the dam on the left bank there is another very small quarry. In it you can see an open vertical tectonic crack and a small grotto under a fallen block. This is the last outcrop of rocks in front of a multi-kilometer section of a completely "flat" river.

Blagodat village, threshold and rifts, steep bends

the first threshold at the beginning of the village lat=54.474832 lon=38.623123 , the last roll at the farm lat=54.474483 lon=38.631545
The village stands on a rather high, 30 meters, right bank, steep, but without obvious stone outcrops. At the beginning of the village, the river makes a loop of 150 degrees to the left, immediately after it - a threshold with a drop in low water of 40 centimeters, the main channel on the left and a narrow curve filled with a channel on the right. The previous kilometer is replete with floating and semi-floating logs, nevertheless, the main stream in the threshold is clean, as in subsequent rifts, the last of which is just at the end of the village under the farm. Then - another loop of the channel in full 180 degrees to the left and a long whirlpool.

Mouth of the Berezinka River

left lat=54.488389 lon=38.645182
1 km to the village. Myagkoe Pervoe, from it 7 km of asphalt road to the station Uzunovo Paveletsky direction

The mouth of the Berezinka is quite a suitable place to complete the rafting; it is even better to finish it a little earlier, before the big bend near the village of Blagodat. Serebryye Prudy is less suitable for this, since trains do not go there. The Berezinka river itself is shallow and littered.
Train schedule for Uzunovo station from Yandex

Uzunovo-Pavelets railway bridge, Dudino platform, riffles

bridge lat=54.482555 lon=38.663206 , rolls lat=54.483817 lon=38.673733 and lat=54.4832 lon=38.691333

By south coast Sturgeon - Serebryanoye and Dudino villages, bus to Serebryanye Prudy 4 times a day. Half a kilometer south of the bridge is the Dudino platform, where the Uzunovo-Pavelets-Uzunovo electric trains stop 8 times a day.
The place is popular for starting rafting, despite the fact that for the first few hours you will have to go through the city of Silver Ponds. There are several very small rifts between the bridge and the city.

"World! Work! Alloy!"

It was decided to celebrate the Day of International Solidarity of Workers not in the dusty spring Capital, but somewhere on the river. Specially for the alloy, we Kiryasikom gypsyed 2 inflatable kayaks of the Odyssey-370 type. A Comrade Admiral our inflatable fleet chose the river. It turned out, Derzha.

Divankayaking: day 1

We spent the first day in a harsh male company. They mastered new boats (remember, yes, Odyssey-370?). By the way, a suitable boat rental from Mikhail Levashov (Zindolog). In the photo above, it can be seen that Comrade Admiral of the joint Chukotka-Siberian fleet shows that kayaks should be taken from Mikhail.

Our path began from the village with the wonderful name Tupitsino. Nearby, by the way, is the village of Bezumovo. scary places.. But we are brave guys: seven of us are not afraid of one and do not tremble on the couch!

For the first day, we passed fig-yes-nifiga kilometers and planted vegetables in an uninhabited clearing in a fishing line. The whole evening they were baiting stories and scaring Kiryu with encephalitis mites.

Day 2: anarchy on the river Dyorzha

On the second day, we walked a little more and reunited with the Beta group (Danya and Wonderful Girls in the amount: 3). Danya also found himself a kayak sofa. And the Girls went on the Pike-3 galley, which was obviously specially invented to test the stamina of novice watermen.

In the photo: Kirya scares Zhaba. Variety in the alloy was made by periodic blockages and small rifts. A couple of times I even had to get out to take myself off the log or guide the boats. In general, it's exciting.

We bivouacked at a very nice campsite outside the village of Pogoreloe gorodishche, not reaching the bridge over the M-9. In the evening, they arranged a banquet and initiation of first-timers into water workers.

Meanwhile: Danya saw Jack's bottle and tries to take off =).

Day 3: Valim

The morning was sunny. The day promised to be warm. It pleased. May anyway. The soul is already asking for warmth. Loaded up and let's go! Volga ahead!

The Volga is amazing. In the upper reaches of it, there are still no motor ships going there. But it's already huge! I immediately remember “.. my native country is wide!” In the same place, I met the crew of Taimen, in the amount of 3 people, who kindly treated me to something from a flask. Very suitable. Thank you.

The antistapel was in a large clearing near the village of Stolipino. In total, in 11 hours we covered 74 km, notably sweated and swam in the cool spring water.

Rafting track along the Hold and a short background information You can see the route on the link below.

Quite a few natural beauties scattered across the Russian land! The Zubtsovsky district of the Tver region hides a monument that is completely uncharacteristic for a flat relief - white rocks on the Derzha River. The river is quite ordinary, with picturesque banks overgrown with mixed and deciduous forest. And it is doubly surprising to find real rocky ledges here, up to 30 meters high! The most massive and highest limestone outcrops can be seen on the right bank near the village of Mozgovo.

Here, in the realm of silence and the splendor of nature, many travelers come. With the advent of the April snowmelt, water tourists rush to this place, wishing to raft down the Derzha and fight against the rapids. The river comes to life: catamarans, boats and kayaks appear, bursts of oars and friendly screams of rowers are heard. Most of the routes start from Pogorely Gorodishche and are planned in such a way as to spend the night near the White Rocks. Although the river is small, it has character: rushing water and pebbly shoals along the banks alternate with sheer rocky ledges and spruce thickets.

The view from the river to the rocks is mesmerizing: huge massifs of limestone, covered with mixed forest, hang over the water, as if they want to plunge into the coolness of the waves. And the spectacle that opens from the rocks themselves at the mouth of the Hold is completely breathtaking! One gets the feeling that a person is looking at the water from the height of a ten-story building! The view of the area is simply amazing! The entire winding riverbed is in full view, steep banks, overgrown with figured pines, are visible for a couple of kilometers ahead.

In addition to tourists, the area is flooded with fishermen. The river is not deep, so fishing takes place very unusually - manually. The fishermen simply turn over the pitfalls and deftly grab the floating fish with their hands. And at the top, on the rocks themselves, there are lovers quiet rest Outdoors. Above the ledge are homemade benches made of logs and a table. Equipped with a place for barbecue. There are very few around settlements, so the silence is just extraordinary! What's more surprising is that there is very little waste. Unfortunately, wherever travelers appear, various wastes sooner or later accumulate. Here it is clean and tidy.

This region of Hold is called Tver Karelia, and the river itself is equated with the mountain. Quite deservedly, I must say, because the surmountability of rapids and water barriers is equal to the first category of difficulty water tourism. The watermen have a saying: “A tourist does not fall into the same river twice”, but many of the guys who have been in the Derzhinsky Rocks area come back here again and again. Dreamers of conquering the Hold rocks are constantly visiting this attraction, but they are so impregnable that even the masters mountain tourism do not dare to go down to the water on a plumb line.

Getting to the place is easy. From the capital it is necessary to overcome the distance of only 200 km. The easiest way to the Derzhinsky Rocks is through Mozgovo. It is necessary to pass the village, cross the bridge over the Derzha to the other side and move along the forest. As soon as the vegetation ends on the right side, turn right and go about 800 meters more. Then there will be a turn into the forest, which will end with a rocky shore.

There are plenty of places to park near the rocks! The shore opposite the rocky ledges is most suitable for a shelter - it is gentle, even and safe, and besides, it is quiet. On the rocky shore, other visitors constantly flicker: tourists, excursion groups and just nature lovers. And the view of the white cliffs from this coast is impressive.

Even in densely populated areas, you can find a corner untouched by civilization. Maybe that's why picturesque rocks by the river Keep steel popular place for relax. Of course, their unusualness and beauty attract travelers. It is a real pleasure to spend a weekend surrounded by a fast river and bewitching rocks!

holding- a river in the Moscow and Tver regions of Russia, the right tributary of the Volga River. It originates 8 km west of Shakhovskaya station Riga direction Moscow railway, flows into the Volga below the city of Zubtsov in the Tver region. The village of Selyaevo and others are located on the river.

Length 89 km. Flat type. Food is mostly snowy. Derzha freezes in November - early December, opens in late March - April.

Water registry data

According to the state water register of Russia, it belongs to the Upper Volga Basin District, the water management section of the river - the Volga from the city of Zubtsov to the city of Tver, without the Tvertsa River, the river sub-basin of the river - the basins of the tributaries of the (Upper) Volga up to Rybinsk reservoir. The river basin of the river - (Upper) Volga to Kuibyshev reservoir(without the Oka pool).

According to the geoinformation system for water management zoning of the territory of the Russian Federation, prepared by federal agency water resources:

• Water body code in the state water register - 08010100612110000001514
• Code for hydrological knowledge (GI) - 110000151
• Pool code - 08.01.01.006
• GI volume number - 10
• GI release - 0

Tributaries (km from mouth)

• 8.2 km: Ivka river (lv)
• 26 km: Blue river (lv)
• 28 km: Goryanka river (pr)
• 58 km: Sukromlya river (lv)
• 74 km: Zherlenka river (lv)

Attractions

Derzha looks very picturesque, bizarrely meandering between moraine hills among mixed and birch-aspen forests, meadows and fields. Most Beautiful places located in the Tver region.

Approximately two kilometers before flowing into the Volga, the river made a passage through a limestone ridge: a beautiful canyon was formed with noisy rifts and white rocks along the right bank. At the bottom of the river - flat limestone-flint slabs, in the channel - granite glacial boulders.