Old goa how to get there. Old Goa. Cathedral of Saint Catherine of Alexandria

Which is a fortress, inside and outside of which there is a dense development of residential facilities, buildings and structures for various purposes, temple complexes, etc. Today, the fortress walls are so tightly and harmoniously integrated into the overall picture of the settlement that it is almost impossible to find them.

Not so long ago, Old Goa was the capital of the state, and today it is one of the main attractions nearby at present). The distance from the main city of Goa to this historically significant place is about 10 kilometers. Both independent tourists and numerous excursion groups come here every day, who want to get acquainted with the religious monuments of the past, of which there are quite a lot.

City `s history

The city was founded in the 15th century by order of Sultan Adil Shah, the ruler of the Bijapur Sultanate, and was one of the central trading centers. Over the next several centuries, the history of the existence of Old Goa is inextricably linked with the Portuguese colonialists, since in 1510 they recaptured the city from the Sultanate.

Old Goa had the status of the capital until the end of the 40s. XIX century. The city lost its importance due to the terrible epidemic of cholera that grew every day and claimed the lives of hundreds of people. It was then that it was decided to move the capital to neighboring Panaji.

Goa was dominated by the Spanish colonialists for about 450 years, after which India gained independence and decided to return the selected lands back to its borders. As a result of the military operation, the Indian army defeated the Spaniards and declared the state of Goa a union territory of their state.

How to get there?

Old Goa is an excellent sightseeing place where you can learn a lot about the country, get acquainted with its history, culture and religious preferences. You can get here in several ways:

1. Excursion to Old Goa, where, in addition to sightseeing this city, the tour program will include a lot of other interesting things;
2. go on a trip on your own in a rented vehicle (car, moped, bike, etc.);
3. take a trip on a public bus. The road in this case will not take much time and will be extremely cheap.

If you chose the second travel option, then be careful: not only can you often meet traffic police waiting for tourists at the entrance to Old Goa, but there is also a small dangerous section of the road on the road from Panaji where the track is rather narrow and moving heavy trucks they move almost along the entire width of the road (it is very inconvenient to go around them).

Attractions

The sights of Old Goa that have survived to this day are, first of all, numerous temple and buildings and other buildings of religious themes.

So, among the most visited and interesting temples of Old Goa, the Basilica of Bom Jesus (Jesus the Merciful) is distinguished. It is here that the relics of the patron saint of Goa are kept. The building was erected by the Jesuits. In its design, it combines several styles (Ionic, Corinthian, Doric, etc.). Remarkably, the basilica is the only temple in Goa, the outer side of which is not decorated with stucco.

About once a decade, tourists can get to the demonstration of the relics of St. Xavier. True, when it was the last time, more than a million pilgrims from all over the globe gathered.

The Cathedral of St. Catherine is located almost opposite the Basilica of Jesus the Merciful and is considered by its size to be the largest cathedral on the territory of the Asian continent. At the same time, this church is also considered one of the very first that appeared here. The church owes its origin to the Portuguese, who in 1510, in honor of the conquest of these places, decided to erect a cathedral. This religious site is decorated in a traditional Tuscan style. During its existence, it was repeatedly rebuilt and completed. The current appearance of the cathedral was around 1652. St. Catherine's Cathedral keeps a lot of interesting religious objects. For example, five massive bells are stored here, one of which is “golden” - the largest in Goa. In the third chapel there is another attraction - a "growing cross" that fulfills the wishes of believers. There is a legend saying that a certain shepherd, carving a wooden cross for his house, saw Jesus, so the cross began to be considered life-giving. It was decided to store it in a special chapel. While this chapel was being built, the cross grew a lot. Rumor has it that it is still growing today thanks to the fulfilled desires of parishioners.

If you go behind the cathedral, you will see the building of the gallery of contemporary art of Christians. It is recommended to come here only to true religious fanatics or those who simply have a lot of free time. The rest will be sorry for the wasted time.

The Temple of St. Cajetan is considered the most beautiful temple complex in the whole city. It is located in the same area as the previously described religious buildings. This temple is very similar to the Roman Cathedral of St. Peter. The external design of the temple belongs to the Corinthian style, and the interior decoration corresponds to the Baroque style.

The Church of St. Francis of Assisi is unique in that all the walls of this building are decorated with various images illustrating episodes from the life of this saint, and the floor is tombstones on the graves of noble Portuguese families with their family coats of arms.

Near the specified church, you can find the monastery of the same name, on the territory of which there is an archaeological museum, which contains portraits of all governors and kings, as well as the Chapel of St. Catherine, which appeared here one of the first after the conquest of the territories by the Portuguese.

Once upon a time, the beautiful Church of St. Augustine was located on the territory of Old Goa, but today only ruins remain of it, which are still considered a fairly visited place in the city. All that remains of the majestic building is the ruins of a 40-meter bell tower and several walls adjacent to it. On the territory of these ruins, you can see many locals digging in the ground. It is believed that in the depths there are a large number of religious artifacts, which are exactly what local archaeologists are looking for.

Special attention deserves such objects as the Chapel of St. Anthony, the Church of St. John, which today has become a nursing home, the Monastery and Church of St. Monica, considered the theological center of the monks, the Museum of Christian Art, which tells the history of this religious branch, the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary, there is a beautiful and quiet garden, the Church of the Madonna on the mountain, which offers stunning views of the city and the surrounding area, and much more.

Due to the numerous historically significant sites that are located within the boundaries of Old Goa, this city is included in the list of places classified as historical heritage.

Acquaintance with the colonial style and Portuguese heritage in Goa can be considered incomplete and even failed if you have not reached Old Goa. Although the town is small, it is very easy to get lost and miss all the most interesting, indulging in the contemplation of views unexpected for India. We have prepared our personal list of must-sees in Old Goa.

Often online when asked "What to see in Pananji?" or "What to see in Goa", "Sights of Goa", you can find photos of a dilapidated church, a wide avenue and restored white temples. You can look for them for a very long time later in the city, wandering through the narrow streets of the once Portuguese city, and never find them. Why? The answer is very, simple - all these photos were taken not in Pananji, but in a neighboring city.

Although, probably to call Old Goa a city means to be cunning. By and large, we are talking only about a single area that managed to avoid destruction and reconstruction, and which is now included in the UNESCO World Heritage List (about its doubts about the benefits of being included in this very list,).

On a fairly small area there are several cathedrals, bell towers and even a museum, though also rebuilt from a church. By the way, most of the churches are active, and the requirements for clothing when visiting them are the same as in Pananji.

On the one hand, all of them are similar - nevertheless, the period of creation is very short, the purpose of the buildings is similar, and architectural trends in those days did not change as quickly and drastically as they do now. On the other hand, it is precisely because of their similarity that they form a very interesting and noteworthy architectural ensemble.

The first thing that catches your eye is the cleanliness that is unusual for India: there is no garbage anywhere, however, urns too; lawns are evenly mowed, watered and ennobled; dead grass removed. If only I had come from Europe, or, probably, I would not even have paid attention to it - well, what is unusual here, he is a suai in India ☺. But having lived in Goa for 5 months, I understand that for India, such love for napidara initiating a marafet is not typical. By the way, I wonder how they were forced to keep order in Old Goa so reverently? It is clear that money matters a lot. But who controls the quality? Portuguese? English? Herons ☺?

It's probably worth getting started with Basilicas of Bom Jesus. It is impossible not to notice it - it is very different from all other buildings, in addition, guides of all stripes will lure you to it, so it is better to immediately put an end to this issue and with a clear conscience, but not with an empty wallet, go further.

The basilica was built and consecrated in the late 16th and early 17th centuries and is considered a prime example of the Portuguese Baroque. Until now, it is one of the most richly decorated churches in Goa: the floor is made of white marble with inserts of semi-precious stones, a gilded altar with elaborate carvings, and painted walls.

Quite interesting is the very name of the church "Bom Jesus" - this is a kind of way to show reverence and love for God, since it is translated from Portuguese approximately as "good, holy baby Jesus."

A huge number of people of all stripes crowd around her, but the main direction is guides-tour guides. This bait is not worth it for several reasons.

• They can broadcast only at the exit, and then you will be asked to remain silent;
• They also cannot boast of academic knowledge in English, so the story will be conducted in Hinglish (a hellish mixture of English, Hindi and an incredible accent), how much you understand it is a big big question;
• Local guides also cannot boast of historical or cultural education, so everyone will have their own version of events, which is very far from the truth (for example, according to one of their wonderful versions, Vasca de Gamma built the basilica - yeah, personally ☺).

So why is this basilica so famous that it caused such an unprecedented stir? It contains the remains of the Portuguese missionary Francis Xavier, who, as we have already said, was later canonized and is considered the patron saint of Goa.

In general, the personality of Francis Xavier, like many other historical personalities, is more than ambiguous. He managed to distinguish himself very strongly not only in the history of Goa, but throughout the Catholic world. Francis Xavier left Portugal in 1541 and never returned to Europe. His missionary activity affected not only India, but also many other countries: China, Japan, Mozambique.

In Portuguese India, under the patronage of Francis Xavier, schools, temples, and hospitals were built. In addition, he headed the College of St. Paul in Goa, which later became the first missionary point of the Jesuits in Asia. Naturally, he was also engaged in educational activities, converted infidels to Christianity, and, in addition, he was one of the main champions of morality and morality among the colonialists and missionaries themselves.

The relics of Francis Xavier (though not all: his nails, encrusted with diamonds, were transferred to Chandora) are stored in a silver coffin, which is opened for public viewing once every 10 years. The last time this happened was in 2014. Previously, anyone who wished could touch his incorruptible body, but now it is fenced off by the glass lid of the tomb. The reason is simple: one particularly devout believer, instead of simply touching the relics or kissing them, bit off St. Francis's finger.

In addition to its size (76 meters long, 55 meters wide), Xie Cathedral boasts timing, but in a bad way: its construction took almost 90 years. Several legends and cult artifacts are associated with this church (of course, nothing can be photographed):

• golden bell(Golden Bell) - it is located in the bell tower of the cathedral and is the largest in Asia (made, of course, not of gold);
• Chapel of the Miraculous Cross(Chapel of the Cross of Miracles) - it contains a cross, which, according to legend, magically increased in size after its creation.
• Gilded and ornamented screen located behind the altar(Reredos), which depicts the life of Saint Catherine, to whom, in fact, the cathedral is dedicated. She was beheaded in Egypt in Alexandria because she refused to renounce her faith.

Near the cathedral is Archaeological Museum, the entrance to which costs a symbolic 10 rupees, the paper on which tickets are printed is even more expensive. The museum itself does not represent anything particularly interesting - a gallery of portraits of Portuguese viceroys, bronze statues from different times, fragments of Hindu temple sculpture, something called "hero stones" (hero stones), etc. and so on. The Goa State Museum in Pananji seemed to us much more interesting, although, of course, to each his own.

On the same well-groomed territory there are several more churches, temples and other buildings of varying degrees of destruction. Each probably has a rich history, but visually they are not particularly remarkable.

If after this excursion into history and religion there is still strength left, you can wander around the city and get to the ruins Monastery of Saint Augustine. The ruins themselves are very picturesque, but at the same time depressing. A very melancholy place, evoking thoughts about the eternal and about death. Probably, this is exactly the mood that Catholic buildings should create.

In general, in Old Goa you can endlessly move from temple to temple: a large temple will be replaced by a small one, the current one will be closed, the destroyed one will be restored. There are so many of them, but they are so similar that after a while it starts to ripple in the eyes and they merge into one big spot without any identification marks. So, the main thing here is not to overdo it.

To be honest, I thought for a long time that Old Goa is another name for the city of Pananji - the current capital of Goa or its region, but I was wrong. Lately, this has been happening quite often, but that's why we travel to learn something new and dispel our misconceptions and stereotypes ☺. So, Old Goa is the former capital and stronghold of the Portuguese and Catholic authorities in Goa. Today it is a completely puppet city - a museum.

There is no real life to be found here. Everything looks as if an evil assistant director will run out from around the corner and start kicking you out so that you don’t interfere in the frame ☺. Even the tourists here are very colorful: bright, juicy - they are usually shown in the movies. It can be seen that the fabrics and decorations of the Mumbai guests are very, very expensive, a striking contrast with the Arambol fashion.

There are no stalls with local food - only fruits, water and ice cream. And everything, of course, exorbitant prices. So it is better to take care of a snack in advance. On the other hand, he was full of "helpers", who organized paid parking a hundred meters from the free one and obsessively direct careless drivers to it; excessively ardent guides, ready to fight among themselves for a tourist, as well as ubiquitous dogs.

Address: Panaji, India. How to get there: Old Goa is located 9 km from Panaji, from there it is easy to get there by bus or taxi.

Old Goa - open air museum

Goa is the pearl of the Indian coast, caressed by the sun. A tiny state, blessed by the gods, where the waters of the Arabian Sea merge on the horizon with a cloudless sky, and a light breeze playfully plays with the branches of slender palms and dense mangroves - amazingly beautiful. As soon as they did not call its former capital: Eastern Rome, little Lisbon, miniature Amsterdam. Contemporaries call it the city of temples for their multitude. Silent witnesses of the dramatic and undoubtedly rich past froze on the streets of the shrine - a magnet for tourists and pilgrims.

History milestones

It is hard to imagine, but settlers first appeared on a fantastically colorful piece of fertile land in the Neolithic era, as evidenced by the rock paintings found in the caves of Kajur and Usgalimal. Around 200 BC. e. the seaside was ruled by the Mauryan dynasty, which flourished under Emperor Ashoka, who ruled for 50 years. After his death, more than one generation of rulers fought for the right to control the Goan territory. Years passed, centuries passed, empires were born and died. In the XIV century. Goa fell under the rule of the Delhi Sultanate. The countless riches of the region attracted the attention of many overseas guests. By the way, the first European who visited India was the Tver merchant Afanasy Nikitin (1471 - 1474), who left behind a handwritten work in the form of travel notes "Journey Beyond the Three Seas". A monument was erected to him in Revdand (2002). Approximately more than 20 years after the Russian traveler, the legendary navigator Vasco da Gama reached Hindustan. After that, the Portuguese, having defeated the army of Sultan Yusuf Adil Shah, turned the tasty coastline, which brought fabulous profits, into their colony. Ships loaded to the brim with weightless silk, porcelain, ivory, jewelry and, of course, spices, set sail from the piers.
Old Goa has been declared a spiritual metropolis. To plant Christianity, a stream of missionaries poured in here. At first, the Gentiles were enlightened with convincing arguments, affectionate, timely speeches. The indefatigable preacher Francis Xavier (1542) succeeded most of all. Nevertheless, the locals converted to a foreign faith reluctantly, one by one. The Plenipotentiary Ambassador of the Vatican asked John III (Pope of Rome) to urgently introduce the Inquisition to eradicate heresy. The efforts were crowned with success. Inquisitorial bonfires blazed in the square, where heretics were thrown. The "merciful" executioners strangled those who confessed their sinfulness before being burned, easing their torment.
It was forbidden to perform national wedding customs, wear traditional clothes, tie threads indicating belonging to a caste. Children were baptized by force, without the consent of their parents, orphans were sent to college, brought up in a Christian spirit. More than 500 Hindu shrines were destroyed. By the 17th century 175 thousand Goans, mostly the poor, changed their faith. By the end of the same century, disaster struck, bringing ruin. Terrible epidemics of malaria and then cholera gathered a considerable harvest. Frightened people fled en masse, leaving their homes. Pestilence forced the administration to start building a new town, remote from the swamps, teeming with mosquitoes - carriers of diseases. Thus was born the capital city of Panaji. Freedom from European colonizers came on May 30, 1987, when the region was officially proclaimed the 25th state of India.

Present day

Portuguese domination did not pass without a trace: now 40% of the population are Catholics, and truly devoted. As if in a kaleidoscope, Indian and European cultures are colorfully mixed here. Often near the houses - crosses, statues of the Virgin. The outward appearance of the townspeople is surprising, in whose blood the elegance of the East and the openness of the West have merged. Many Catholic women prefer to wear modern stylish western outfits. Married women replaced the scarlet stripes in the parting of their hair (sindur-dana) with wedding rings. Sacred architectural masterpieces reminiscent of the old days are the hallmark of old Goa.

Cathedral C E

The heart is filled with reverent awe, looking at such a majestic snow-white building, built on an unimaginable scale. It is considered the largest Catholic shrine in Southeast Asia (76x55 m). In honor of St. Catherine, it was not built in vain. In March 1510, the famous governor Afonso de Albuquerque broke through the defenses of the Muslim army and broke into the city. But it was too early to celebrate. The defenders fought to the death and after a couple of months they drove out the enemy. The final victory was not easy for the foreigners, only after a repeated fierce assault did they manage to capture the citadel. The significant event coincided with the celebration of the memory of St. Catherine (November 25). Deciding that this was a sign from above, they decided to build a temple, dedicating it to the great martyr. The church, built of stone and straw with clay, looked very modest.
In 1562, instead of him, Don Francisco Coutinho (Viceroy of India) ordered the construction of a much grander building, designed to personify the invincible power of the colonialists, dominating the territory from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. After the consecration (1640) it was completed for 12 years.
The asymmetry of the facade due to one 33-meter tower makes a strange impression. The question involuntarily arises: "Where is the second one?" It turns out that it collapsed from a lightning strike (1776). They did not restore it, the building acquired its original asymmetric look. Carved details, stained-glass lancet windows emphasize the vertical.
On the bell tower there is a "golden bell" cast in Candolim (1652), named so for its magnificent sound. It is still sonorous and still loud. Once heard a melodic chime, heard at a distance of 14 km, frightened the Indians incredibly, announcing the beginning of a public execution, carried out right in front of the facade in the market square, where the fire blazed ominously, there were instruments of torture, waiting for the next victims.
Now fragrant flowers growing in the middle of lush green grass, shrubs, spreading crowns of long-lived trees, under which a whole supermarket could hide, please the eye. In front of the entrance is the famous octagonal font, where the rite of baptism of new believers was held. Opposite the gate rises on a pedestal the figure of Jesus, who opened his arms to all mankind.
Above the portal is a five-pointed star, a symbol of the Nativity of Christ. The interior decoration, made in antique style, looks luxurious. The high vault, even rows of columns, decorated at the top with an ornament of acanthus leaves, similar to bear paws, evoke a feeling of delight. Eight arched chapels fill the space of the central nave. The main gilded altar (15 in total) is designed for Catherine. Six panels show scenes from her life on earth. On the sides are images of the righteous Peter and Paul. Nearby is an organ dating from the 18th century.
The most valuable relic is the miraculous cross, which helps to get rid of various diseases. According to legend, a devout shepherd carved it out of wood and installed it on Mount Boa Vista. On February 23, 1619, the Lord appeared on the crucifixion, after which it grew exactly to Calvary. I had to widen the doorway to bring it in. In a specially prepared case, where the value was placed, a small hole was made on the side, allowing the hand to penetrate. Having touched, it is necessary to make a wish, the good will certainly come true.
Services are still held here, gathering crowds of parishioners. In the floor and walls there are burials of clergymen and high-ranking noble persons, as indicated by inscribed tablets. The living and the dead appear before the Almighty together. Some give him praise with prayer, others sleep forever in the neighborhood.

Treasures of the archaeological museum

It is located not far away, in the former monastery of the Franciscans. At the main portal there is a bronze sculpture of Admiral Afonso, reaching a height of 3.6 m. During his lifetime, the outstanding warrior was given the nickname "Portuguese Mars". A bronze statue of the Lisbon lyricist Luis de Camões, who died at the age of 56, was registered here. A crater on Mercury is named after him.
Looks at those who came from the portrait of Vasco da Gama. Of particular interest to visitors is the layout of the flagship ship with the poetic name "San Gabriel", on which the fearless navigator reached the "land of spices". Statues of Hindu deities, Shiva's lingam, ancient scrolls, manuscripts, bas-reliefs, sea charts, an exhibition of weapons are presented to the audience.
The top floor is occupied by a portrait gallery where you can get acquainted with the governors and viceroys of Portugal. Looking at various faces painted by artists under the influence of talented masters of Italy, it is as if you come into contact with historical moments filled with exciting adventures and incredible cruelty when discovering mysterious unknown lands.

Basilica of Bom Jesus

Perhaps, one cannot find in the whole state a more prayerful, energetically strong place than the baroque cruciform building (56x17x19 m) located across the road, known to the entire Roman Catholic world. The construction was carried out according to the project of the Florentine architect, sculptor Giovanni Battista Foggini. Granite and red laterite, quite common for the tropics, were chosen as building materials. Construction work, which started in 1594, was completed in record time, 11 years later. The church was consecrated by Archbishop Alexy de Menezes (May 1605). Its name means "Good Jesus" in translation.
The façade cut through by six windows is divided into 3 tiers and has three doors. The decor is the columns of the Doric, Corinthian and Ionic orders - classical elements of the architecture of Ancient Greece.
Peace and tranquility reign inside. The interior strikes with sophisticated sophistication. The floor, lined with white marble slabs, is inlaid with semi-precious stones. Under the choirs on the right side - the altar of St. Anthony, on the left - a wooden figure of F. Xavier. At the northern wall there is a cenotaph of the benefactor Jeronimo Mascarenas, who died in 1593. Works were carried out with the money bequeathed to him. Opposite is a carved pulpit with a canopy for conducting services, decorated with images of the Son of God, evangelists, church teachers. In the central part there is a baroque gilded altar 16 m high, 9 m wide, on a hill there is a charming Divine Child in an unearthly radiance. Behind him is a three-meter statue of the founder of the Jesuit Order, Ignatius Loyola. The look of the defender of the Christian doctrine is turned upwards, to the solar medallion, where the abbreviation "I H S" - the monogram of the Jesuits - is engraved.
Millions of believers, even from far abroad, rush here with the sole purpose of bowing to the remains of Xavier, who was beatified (1622). Padre Santo, as he was nicknamed, managed to direct hundreds of thousands of heretics and pagans to the righteous path. He dreamed of Christianizing the Middle Kingdom, where he went (September 1552). Reading the mass on the island of Shangchuan, he lost consciousness. The 48-year-old Apostolic Nuncio died on December 2 of the same year, not long suffering from a fever. The faithful servant Antonio, having placed the deceased in a coffin he had knocked together, filled with lime, temporarily buried in a foreign land.
Two and a half months later, while he was being transported by ship, the captain ordered the tomb lid to be opened. People could not believe their eyes: the body was perfectly preserved. Upon arrival in Malacca, he was reburied in a shroud, as required by the then tradition. The chronicles note that the plague raging on the Asian continent stopped during his funeral.
The relics delivered to the church remained incorrupt after 16 months. For three days, those who wished were allowed to approach them. Many miracles have happened. Death itself seemed to respect the knight-missionary, whom the local people consider a patron.
The silver coffin is set in a tomb made of marble and jasper. The sculptor Giovanni Foggini worked on it for 10 years, receiving in gratitude for eternal preservation a pillow where Francis's head once lay. For long hard work, the master was generously paid by the Duke of Tuscany Cosimo III Medici. They say that the crystal cap was added after a sad incident when a parishioner, in a fit of ecstasy, tore off a piece of sacred flesh. Once in a decade, the remains are put on display. The last important event happened in 2014.

Church of St. Cajetan

Walking along Ruo Direita Street, one cannot help but linger near the snowy whiteness of the miracle building, crowned with two twin turrets and a huge dome, visible from afar. It is the only one of its kind. Appeared thanks to the Theatines monks.
They founded the order of K. Tiensky (protector of women in childbirth) from a noble noble family and Bishop Theatinsky, who later became Pontiff Paul the Fourth. Their goal is to save human souls through reforms among the clergy. Priests, living in society, had to work for the benefit of moral and religious perfection, taking strict monastic vows: chastity, complete obedience, renunciation of wealth. Their noble deeds flourished in Europe, America, Persia.
Once, by order of Urban VIII, the monks came to spread the truth of Christ in Golconda, but they were not allowed in (1639). On reflection, the servants of God settled in the Goan area. Having decided to build a hospital, they again faced obstacles. The vice-governor was categorically against the hospital, ultimatum demanding to immediately get out of the colony. One of the brothers went to an audience with His Highness Juan IV with a request to be allowed to continue the work begun. The monarch was so struck by the resolute perseverance of the presbyter that he agreed, and five years later he gave the go-ahead for the construction of a monastery monastery and a church. This is how the most beautiful basilica, similar to the Roman Cathedral of Peter, grew up not by chance: it was taken as a model (1661). At first, the building was named in honor of the Mother of God of Divine Providence, then it was renamed.
At the entrance, on the threshold, the phrase is written: Domus mea Domus Orationis, meaning in Latin "My house is the house of prayer." The interior decoration harmoniously combines elements of whimsical baroque with exquisite rococo. On the vault, which lets in a pouring stream of soft daylight, is an excerpt from the Gospel. The central altar is dedicated to the Mother of God. On the left and on the right - three more each, painted with outlandish plant patterns, figures of soaring angels. The decoration of the altar images was carried out by graduates of the Italian school of painting. In the niches are statues of saints.
Under the nave, during excavations, a well was discovered. Opinions about the origin of the find are divided. Some researchers argued that the architect deliberately provided a water source so that monsoon rains would not undermine the foundation. Others pointed to a pagan sanctuary that had previously been there. The spring is a part of it.
The crypt is a repository of lead coffins with embalmed bodies of foreign officials. From here they were sent on their last journey to their homeland for burial. Some stayed in the crypt for over 30 years before they left home.
In the midst of a well-groomed church garden, a stone Cajetan froze thoughtfully on a pedestal, surrounded by a hedge of trimmed bushes, as if under a ruler. On the shoulders - a black cassock, in the hands - a book, a rosary. Behind him is the seminary. The educational institution that trains pastors is still functioning today. In the depths, fragments of the royal gates are seen leading to the once luxurious beautiful palace, which no longer exists.

This is just a small part of what can be seen here. The 18th century brought drastic changes: the ruling circles banned any missionary activity. Religious buildings were empty, the flock fled in all directions, the capital moved. And life goes on, it is in full swing, and everyone in it is happy with its happiness. Today, there are only a few functioning temples, most of them are a silent reminder of the significant facts of history that have sunk into oblivion.

Old Goa is one of the attractions of the Indian resort state, today excursions are taken to this archaeological reserve (the link is the most TOP excursions) and they come on their own.

It is advisable to allocate a whole day for sightseeing, but if there is not enough time, everything can be seen for several hours. By visiting this place, you can see how grandiose the presence of the Portuguese was on Indian soil.

Most of the temples and churches of Old Goa are under the protection of UNESCO, but despite such a high status, visiting them is absolutely free.

History of Old Goa

The history of Old Goa is closely connected with the history of the state and the Portuguese, who had their own interests in these lands. Shortly before the arrival of the Portuguese, all of Goa was part of the Bijapur Sultanate, ruled by the Adil Shah dynasty. Already during the reign of Sultan Yusuf Adil Shah, Old Goa was a successful trading center. But the Portuguese decided to change the course of history and in 1510, General Afonso de Albuquerque recaptured the state from Sultan Yusuf Adil Shah.

Around the same time, the role and influence of Christians in Goa increased, as evidenced by the numerous temples and churches throughout the state (in the Portuguese period there were even more). In 1542, Francis Xavier arrived here, who tremblingly and diligently spread Christianity throughout Asia.

For local residents, Francis Xavier is a very authoritative person, which means that his mission was successful. In Goa, Francis Xavier did not live long and went on to carry Christianity to the masses.

In 1552, Francis Xavier died and was buried on one of the Chinese islands. Two years later, the remains of Francis were transported to India, where some of his parts (it was decided to transfer part of the remains to other temples in Asia) are kept to this day.

In 1622, Francis Xavier was canonized for his contribution to the cause of the Holy Inquisition (and other merits).

Old Goa was the capital until 1847, when, due to a terrible cholera epidemic, it was decided to move the capital to another place. At its peak, the city's population exceeded that of London. But history decided in its own way and the capital moved to the city of Panaji, where it exists to this day.

Portuguese rule in India lasted almost 450 years. After the country gained independence (in 1947), the Portuguese were culturally asked to get out to their homes, but the Europeans pretended that this was not about them.

As a result, in 1961, during a military operation, the Indian army asked the Portuguese to go home no less culturally. It was already useless to resist and Goa was declared a union territory of India.

How to get to Old Goa

There are several ways to see all the sights of Old Goa:

• buy a tour and enjoy, besides Old Goa, there is still a lot of interesting things in it;
• to ride on my own on a moped, my first trip to Old Goa was on a moped. The road is simple, but there are a few troubles, local cops who are on duty on the bridge over the river and a small dangerous section of the road (immediately after Panaji towards Old Goa), where the road is very narrow and heavy trucks strive to occupy the entire width of the road (you feel uncomfortable on a bike) ;
• riding the bus on your own is very easy, cheap, safe and fun. Read all the details about Goan buses in the post "How to travel around Goa by bus". Read about how to get to Old Goa by bus in the post "To Old Goa by bus".

Location of Old Goa on the map

To understand where to look for Old Goa, bring google map, which shows the exact location of the city.

All sights of Old Goa

The main attractions of Old Goa are the temples and churches of the Portuguese era. Most of the Christian temples were built by the Portuguese on the site of Hindu temples, which they destroyed in advance, seeing in them something demonic and contrary to the European faith.

The temples in the city are different, there are very majestic and beautifully decorated, but there are also very simple and abandoned ones. Most of the temples, in their appearance, are similar to each other, so you can get confused.

I walked all the sights of Old Goa on foot, so I am ready to answer any questions about their location and the advisability of visiting.

Map of Old Goa with all the sights

I will give a paper map and a Google map of the city, a Google map will help you understand the scale, and a paper one will give a complete picture of the location of attractions.

paper map

The map is minimalist, but the main roads and sights are indicated on it, it was on it that I explored the city.

google map

This grandiose building is made of dark laterite and this is different from the rest of the churches of Old Goa, which have snow-white walls. Inside the basilica are the relics of Francis Xavier, and something like a museum was arranged on the second floor. The church began to be built on November 24, 1594.

St. Catherine's Cathedral (CE Cathedral)

Due to its size, St. Catherine's Cathedral is the largest church in all of Asia, and probably the oldest. The beginning of the construction of the church dates back to 1510 and is timed to coincide with the date of the conquest of Goa.

Catherine's Cathedral was rebuilt several times, so that today's building is no older than 1652. Pay attention to the huge square in front of the cathedral (Terreiro de Sabayo), here the inquisitors read out their sentences, and the golden bells that were located on the towers of the cathedral rang at the beginning of sentencing. Over time, one of the towers could not stand it and collapsed, so now the cathedral looks asymmetrical.

In the third chapel on the right there is a miraculous growing cross that fulfills wishes and continues to grow to this day, all believers should pay attention to it.

Right behind the Cathedral is a gallery of modern Christian art, if you have a lot of free time, you can look in, otherwise feel free to ignore this attraction.

Church and Monastery of Saint Francis of Assisi

Church of St. Francis of Assisi, built in 1619, it is not as huge as the CE Cathedral but has its own charm. All the walls inside the church are decorated with scenes from the life of Francis of Assisi, and the floor is lined with tombstones with the family coats of arms of noble Portuguese, it looks very cool.

There is an archaeological museum in the adjacent monastery. Mostly there are sculptures from destroyed Hindu temples and a small gallery of Portuguese viceroys and governors.

Near the church of Francis of Assisi, a small chapel of St. Catherine was built. It was this chapel that was built one of the first, immediately after the conquest of Goa (November 25, 1510, the day of St. Catherine).

All that remains of the structures are the ruins of a high bell tower, more than 40 meters high, and several walls. The bell from this church is now in Panaji, in the church of the Madonna of the Immaculate Conception.

Most of the artifacts are still buried in the ground and this is of great interest to local archaeologists, so you can meet people digging in the ground here in any season.

Located opposite the ruins of the church of St. Augustine. The chapel is dedicated to the patron saint of the Portuguese army and navy. The Chapel of Saint Anthony is one of the oldest in Goa, it was abandoned in 1835 and fell into complete disrepair. However, in 1961 it was completely restored by the governor of Goa, Vassalu de Silva.

The church is located opposite the monastery of St. Monica. Unfortunately, tourist visits to this building are difficult, as there is a nursing home.

The church and monastery of St. Monica are located next to the chapel of St. Anthony and the ruins of the church of St. Augustine. The monastery of Saint Monica has a long history and many patrons. The founding date is considered to be July 2, 1606, on that day the archbishop don Alesio de Menezes ordered the construction of the monastery to begin.

The monastery of St. Monica ceased to exist after the death of the last sister in 1885, and only in 1968 again received the status of a religious institution. Now the Theological Center for monks is located here, but tourists are not particularly welcome here.

Museum of Christian Art

The museum building is located near the monastery of St. Monica, once this building belonged to the monastery. The museum building has been completely restored and looks exactly like during construction, and it was built in 1627. The high ceiling (several normal floors high), authentic wooden beams, terracotta stucco and a few museum exhibits take you back several centuries in a very natural and effortless way.

Church of Our Lady of Rosary

If you go from the roundabout (where the Gandhi monument is) towards the ferry crossing and turn right at the first T-junction, then the road will lead you to the Church of Our Lady of the Mount.

A small church was built on a small hill in 1557, in the place where Adil Shah's artillery was. There is also a commemorative plaque talking about the confrontation between the army of Adil Shah and the Portuguese.

You most likely will not be able to see the church from the inside, but the view of the entire Old Goa from here is magnificent.

Opposite the Cathedral of St. Catherine (Cathedral of CE) is the Church of St. Cajetan - this is a very truthful copy of the Roman Cathedral of St. Peter. If you are careful, you can see the beautiful basalt gates that were left from the Adil Shah's palace once located here.

If you go towards the ferry crossing, you will see another beautiful gate called the Arch of the Viceroy.

Old Goa It was a fortress, inside which, and, subsequently, outside of which, buildings and structures were built for various purposes. Today, the fortress walls are practically invisible, the docks have been rebuilt, and residential buildings are concentrated far outside the old center, which has become a tourist attraction.

Extant to our days sights of old goa these are mainly monumental religious buildings. (1510) stood just outside the gate on the outside of the wall facing Mandovi. Next to him later appeared (1521), in the monastery at this church and (c. 1510). Almost simultaneously with the cathedral, Afonso di Albuquerque ordered to start building a monastery, on the site of which thirty years later it was erected (c. 1510). It stands on the highest hill in the vicinity of Old Goa, where Afonso de Albuquerque was headquartered during the conquest of the city. On the same hill you can see the ruins of the Monastery of the Grace of God, the College of Our Lady of Popolo, owned by the Augustinians (under the general name ""), and the College of St. Roque, owned by the Jesuits, as well as (1537-1572), a complex (1690; now there is a nursing home) and the huge monastery of Saint Monica (1606-1627; now there), which was the only female educational institution in the entire Portuguese East. It is curious that the churches built in the valleys between the hills were the first to be abandoned, since the air here was the most unhealthy. Among them - standing to the east of the fortress wall (1541-1543), the monastery of St. Dominic and the monastery of Discalced Carmelites (not even ruins remained of the last two).

To the west of the fortress of the old city there was a vast square on which stood a Jesuit (1594-1605). Now it is one of the main attractions of Old Goa, as it houses the relics of St. Francis Xavier, the most famous preacher of Catholicism in Asia.

A kilometer south of Old Goa can be seen (1619). A kilometer east of the city are (c. 1560) and (c. 1510), and a little closer, on the banks of the Mandovi River, are (1655-1661).

Map of the main attractions of Old Goa

Click here to open the map in a new window and enlarge it

Other sights of Old Goa

Altar of the Church of Our Lady of the Hill
Coordinates: 15.502052,73.913164 (GPS: 15°30’7.39″N, 73°54’47.39″E)

Monastery of the Discalced Carmelites
Coordinates: 15.50312,73.918413 (GPS: 15°30’11.23″N, 73°55’6.29″E)

Church of Saint John Sahagun
Coordinates: 15.48954,73.93475 (GPS: 15°29’22.34″N, 73°56’5.10″E)

Site of Saint Lucy Church
Coordinates: 15.509687,73.92323 (GPS: 15°30’34.87″N, 73°55’23.63″E)

Site of the Church of Our Lady of Light
Coordinates: 15.494469,73.91138 (GPS: 15°29’40.09″N, 73°54’40.97″E)

Site of the Augustinian College of Our Lady of Popolo
Coordinates: 15.4987,73.90557 (GPS: 15°29’55.32″N, 73°54’20.05″E)

Site of the Jesuit College of St. Roque
Coordinates: 15.501042,73.905085 (GPS: 15°30’3.75″N, 73°54’18.31″E)

Site of the Monastery of Saint Dominic
Coordinates: 15.505725, 73.918364 (GPS: 15°30’20.61″N, 73°55’6.11″E)

Mangveiral fort gate
Coordinates: 15.480467,73.945133 (GPS: 15°28’49.68″N, 73°56’42.48″E)

Walls of Old Goa
Only a few pieces of the wall remain.

Arch of the Governors General
Coordinates: 15.505554, 73.914197 (GPS: 15°30’20.0″N 73°54’51.1″E)

Moula Gate
Coordinates: 15.481095,73.910855 (GPS: 15°28’51.94″N, 73°54’39.08″E)

Location of the Talaulim Gate
Coordinates: 15.484814,73.899577 (GPS: 15°29’5.33″N, 73°53’58.48″E)