My Son temples are the spiritual center of ancient Vietnam. Excursion Hoi An - Da Nang - Michon from Nha Trang with the Russian Information Center (day one)

1. We got to Michon from Hoi An. a little more than an hour on a sightseeing bus and now we are already studying the map of our further path.

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3. Having crossed the bridge, we get to the site with such small electric cars. Rejoiced that we would not have to stomp uphill in the heat, we quickly jumped into these cars. But as it turned out, they did not reach the complex itself, so they still had to overcome part of the way on foot.

4. I stomp :)
good thing you thought about taking it more water, maybe hard, but in such heat, water was just a salvation.

5. The road takes about 10 minutes

6. You can take a break :)

7. Well, here we are at the goal of our journey.

8. Before visiting the temple complex, tourists are offered to watch a small performance. I like it.

9. The Apsara dance was especially impressive.

10. The temples of Michon were repeatedly changed, new temples and shrines were added to them. That is why in one building can coexist different styles and stylistic elements of different eras. The whole complex is divided into large ensembles, which are designated with Latin letters A, B, C, D, E, F, G and H, while the ensembles K, L, M and N are separate monuments (I did not find K and N on the map, although I saw some of these buildings).

11. Well, here is the complex itself

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13. According to the guide, scientists still cannot understand how the bricks from which the temples are made were fastened. They are really almost monolithic. There are different hypotheses, I liked the one in which the building itself was first laid out of unfired bricks, and then it was all fired, but this is unlikely. The bottom rows would just flatten out.

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15. Lingam - phallic symbol god Shiva.

16. Ancient ornaments.

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18. Inside.

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21. Ancient writings.

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23. Someone cheated :)

24. Apparently these are the former columns of the temple.

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26. We were lucky with tourists, there were not many of them, so if you wait a bit, you could take a good shot. What can you say about the light :(

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34. Small museums are organized inside the surviving temples.

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37. Ancient walls.

38. Apparently, so as not to be stolen for souvenirs :)

39. Probably the same lingam was installed here :)

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41. But with such babies, the US Air Force bombed a monument world heritage.

42. In places they are still digging something.

43. Some temples are almost completely destroyed by bombardments.

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45. It is very sad that people are capable of this :(

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48. Former altar.

49. And this is the reconstructed part of the complex. Here you can clearly see where the new bricks were used.

50. As far as I remember (according to the guide), the reconstruction was carried out by the French according to the surviving photographs that were taken at the time of the opening of the temple complex in 1889. By the way, they did not manage to properly fix the new bricks in the old masonry.

51. So, the Americans bombed and the French restored.

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53. These quarters are not at all lucky. Nearby were several large bomb craters. Apparently some of the bombs still fell on the buildings.

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55. They are trying to save something in this way, apparently until the next reconstruction.

56. Let there be such green hair instead of the head :)

57. A bomb crater, but 40 years have passed.

58. Well, that's all.

P.S. I will never post more than 10 photos again.

Temple complex My Son (Vietnam) - description, history, location. The exact address, phone, website. Reviews of tourists, photos and videos.

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The province of Quang Nam in the center of Vietnam is known throughout the world for the unique My Son archaeological complex, which in the past served as religious center the ancient state of tyams. Once upon a time there were many shrines and temples, and today a couple of dozen buildings made of sandstone and baked bricks remind of its former grandeur. The object is recognized as a monument cultural heritage of world importance and annually attracts thousands of travelers interested in the secrets of past centuries.

A bit of history

The first information about the complex dates back to the 7th-8th centuries. According to legend, it was here that the capital of the Champa Empire, which existed about 1.5 thousand years ago, was once located. Scientists believe that the founder was King Bhadravarmanu I, who decided to create a “Holy Valley” near the city in honor of the greatness of the deity Shiva, and also as a memory of his reign. For a long time no one knew about Michon, they found it only in the 20th century by French archaeologists who were excavating near Da Nang.

Due to the Vietnam Wars, the "Holy Land" was seriously damaged, and in the 60s. it was miraculously not destroyed by American bombing. But the city managed to survive, and in 1975 ancient monument it was decided to restore. To do this, for several years, the inhabitants of the surrounding lands cleared the war-torn jungle from mines and bombs with their own hands.

The restoration took about 15 years, and in 1996 the grand opening of the complex took place. And 3 years later it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

What to see

The ancient tyams were truly a great people. With their incredible efforts, they erected monumental buildings, and in their arrangement there is a clear system that characterizes the culture, worldview and beliefs of a bygone civilization. Initially, there were over 70 buildings on the territory of the city, but by now just over 20 remain.

Pagodas, temples and towers are decorated with unique patterns and designs carved by ancient craftsmen. It is also amazing that each element is created by hand.

The narrow passages and paths once traversed by the inhabitants of the capital Champa are now used for guided tours. Walking along them, you can see several sculptures of Hindu deities, as if watching tourists with their stone eyes. And the location of the place among the fog-covered hills and dense jungle only adds to its mystery and mystery.

Next to the complex there is a museum that tells about the history of the Tyam empire, and in cultural center, also nearby, hosts themed folklore events.

Practical Information

The complex is located in Quang Nam province. The best way to get here is with excursion group from Da Nang, which is about 80 km from Quang Nam, but you can also get there by taxi or rented motorbike. There are signs leading to the ruins. GPS coordinates: 15.791204; 108.107823.

Ticket price: 100,000 VND - for adults and children. Excursion from Da Nang - approximately 180,000 VND (including ticket). Prices on the page are for November 2016.

Vietnam has preserved to our time many architectural wonders belonging to different eras, the remnants of bygone cultures. And one of them is the bizarre temples scattered across the Quang Nam plain, united in a complex known as the My Son ruins near Da Nang.

Mysterious Cham Civilization

What do we know about the secrets left to us mysterious civilization Chamov (they called themselves "tyam")? This people founded an entire empire that appeared in the central part of modern Vietnam in the second century. The Tyampa state, created from small principalities, existed almost until the beginning of the eighteenth century.

From the seventh to the tenth centuries, the Cham civilization flourished. It was a "golden age" for art and architecture, crafts developed, the Cham language was formed.

Cham culture was directed towards the religious side. Their creations, in which the influence of Indian art was felt, were created in honor of persons from the Hindu pantheon and kept within strict canonical frameworks. Information has reached our time about strange attitude to the notorious copyright. Oddly enough, but all the glory and rights belonged not to the performer of the masterpiece, but to the person who paid money for it.

Centuries of war have not spared the art of the Chams, we only have to imagine what their canvases, carpets and painted vases were like. Alas, even amazing temples, decorated with bizarre patterns and inscriptions, have come down to us in a very deplorable form.

The decline of the Cham civilization had a detrimental effect on the temples that filled the Quang Nam Plain. Religious life and pilgrimage ceased completely by the sixteenth century. Once sacred place began to fall into disrepair, and, as if to confirm the proverb, tillers began to settle near Michon. New settlers built houses, using materials from dilapidated churches for their needs.

Time passed, these lands were empty. Nature took its toll, Michon's temples gradually became part of the jungle, disappearing from human eyes for a long time. The cultural heritage of the Tyampa Empire has become an architectural ghost.

The sleeping fairytale princess needed a kiss from the prince to wake up and return to the people. And to the Michon temples, ironically, a French priest came. It was the end of the nineteenth century, and Jean Bruyère, along with the military who accompanied him, were the first to see what beauty the jungles of Vietnam hide from humanity.

New life for Michon temples

The colonial authorities showed big interest to the legacy of the Tyampa Empire. From the end of the nineteenth century to the mid-forties of the last century, the study of the temple complex was carried out. Expeditions led by French scientists were sent to the surviving temples and ruins.

Successful work on the study of Cham architecture was interrupted by wars. Years of battles brought more destruction to the temple complex than centuries of oblivion in the arms of the Vietnamese jungle.

What the buildings looked like before can only be seen in old stereo photographs and in the drawings of Henri Parmagnier. It took five years for scientists from international Polish-Vietnamese expeditions to research and draw up a detailed report on the state of ancient temples. Enthusiasts cleared the area of ​​the jungle and debris, carried out work to restore more or less surviving buildings. To do this, a technique was developed that allows you to effectively strengthen the masonry with Portland cement.

In the mid-nineties, the temple complex was made accessible to tourists, and at the very end of the century, Michon was officially recognized architectural gem Vietnam and was included in the UNESCO lists.

Temples at the bottom of the lake

So how did a whole city of temples come about? For eight centuries Michon was one of the imperial capitals. Scientists estimate that about seventy temples were erected in a small space of the Cham valley.

The crowned lady Bhadravarman I was specifically looking for an atmospheric and secluded place for the construction of a Hindu temple. It was found in the center of a very small round valley near the village of Mitkho. The flat surface was once the bottom of the lake, in our time only one stream remained from the water arteries, enveloping the temple buildings and ruins.

Temples in honor of Shiva and Vishnu, as well as tombs for the monarchs of Tyampa, were built from special bricks, for strength, a bonding compound of sugar and honey was added to them. The temple complex quickly became the spiritual seat of the kingdom. Monarchs were buried here and festive ceremonies were held in honor of the higher gods.

Tourists can go inside the surviving temples and towers, go down to the royal crypts. Authentic decorations, tiles and sculptures have been preserved here. Statues of gods, stones with incomprehensible inscriptions are scattered around the complex.

The road from Da Nang to the temple complex takes about two hours. You can get there by sightseeing bus with a group of tourists, having purchased a tour in advance, or by ordering a taxi. In the latter case, it is advisable to order a taxi for the entire duration of your walk around Michon. Otherwise, the taxi driver will simply leave, and then you will have to solve the problem with the return trip.

The temple complex, with its ruins, is not a park, you will need good shoes that reliably protect your feet from stone fragments, plus there are a lot of insects. In the hot months, you need to take care of water and protection from the sun, of course, there is shade here, but you won’t constantly hide in the shade of one building.

The tourist infrastructure is still developing, the attraction is still being prepared for visitors. But you can already ride around the territory of Michon on a free electric taxi, it starts from the nearest parking lot. True, due to poor clearance, open cars ride in a limited area.

Despite not the greatest fame and popularity historical complex, there is a large influx of tourists. Mostly sightseeing buses begin to arrive at the temples in the afternoon, respectively, in the second half of the day the territory of the reserve is oversaturated with sightseers moving from one building to another.

In order to fully enjoy the silence and the architectural heritage of the ancient Chams, it is better to arrive in Michon as early as possible. This place is saturated with some special energy. ancient culture and the surrounding jungle, and it is better to wander alone.

There are often dance shows before entering the temple complex. Beauties in national costumes depict dev-apsars, you can still see the dances of the Champa people.

On the Internet you can find very conflicting reviews about the ruins of Michon in Da Nang. Some tourists admire what they saw ancient temples, sculptures and other creations. ancient civilization Chamov. Plus, they note the general historical and energy background of the city lost in the jungle. Others see in Michon only ruins and ruins left over from the bombings.

Nevertheless, such unique place- a piece of ancient Asian culture and Cham civilization - worth a visit during your holiday in Vietnam.

The Cambodian shrine of Angkor Wat is known all over the world and tens of thousands of tourists annually come to Cambodia to visit the most famous and largest temple complex in the world.
But not everyone knows about the existence of another temple complex, which is equated in importance in the Hindu religion with the famous Angkor Wat. This is My Son - the temple complex of the Champa Empire, which is located in central Vietnam.
Unfortunately, Michon's temples and towers, which stood for over 1000 years, were mercilessly destroyed by American bombing during the Vietnam War in 1969. 50 out of 70 buildings. Almost completely.
No words...

2. The ruins of the My Son temple complex are located in the jungle of Quang Nam province, about 50 km southeast of Hoi An city.
Lost in the jungle for more than 4 centuries, Michon was accidentally discovered by a group of French archaeologists in 1885.
In 1999, Michon was included in the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List and active research work and work on the arrangement of the complex for the possibility of visiting tourists.

3. Between the IV and XIII centuries. in this area of ​​Vietnam has developed unique civilization, the spiritual foundations of which were closely connected with Hinduism.
Chams, or chams ̣ (cham - in Vietnamese, and the Russian pronunciation varies) were originally Hindus, worshiped Shiva and considered themselves followers of Shaivism, but after the 10th century something changed, and their religion became more like Islam. All their temples and relics found indicate that the Chams were Hindus, later buildings prove the presence of Islam in their life.
Michon was the capital of the Champa empire from the 4th to the 12th centuries.

4. How did Michon come about?
In the 5th century, the famous Cham king Bhadravakman I decided to find a quiet, secluded place in order to build a temple to praise the cult of Hindu deities. The temple complex of Mytho was built in a ravine between the mountains, not far from the village of the same name.

5. About 70 structures were erected - temples and towers dedicated to the gods Shiva and Vishnu, as well as royal tombs. Steles were installed in each tomb, on which were engraved the names, dates of life and achievements of kings and members of the royal court who had the merit of building this temple complex.
Subsequently, Michon also became a place of worship for the Cham royal dynasties.

6. The most famous tower, 24 meters high, was decorated with sculptures of lions and elephants. It was destroyed during the war in 1969 by American bombing. During these bombardments, 50 of the 70 temples described in the first half of the 20th century by archaeologists from French Institute Far East.

7. Michon was a religious shrine until the 13th century, then the state of Champa was completely destroyed by the modern Viet, only small groups remained that still live in the mountains of central and northern Vietnam. Accordingly, these temples were almost forgotten

8. According to some researchers, the Michon sanctuary was the spiritual center of the ancient Cham state, similar to what is now preserved in Cambodia - famous temples Angkor Wat. The local temples and towers are really very similar to Angkor Wat, and the images of Indian gods are clearly visible in the architecture.

9. There are quite a lot of images of gods, they are different, and some of them do not have faces

10. When looking closely at the figures, one gets the feeling that the faces were "extracted" from the walls, replacing them with "dummy"

11. However, this applies not only to absent persons

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14. Many tombs can now be accessed inside

15. Some of them managed to survive even after the American bombing, some were restored

16. There are no identical tombs here. Each one is different from the next.

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18. Now all the temple buildings of Michon are almost completely destroyed, only their foundations remain. The complex consists of several groups of temples, but only one of them has clear features. The towers are clearly guessed in it, and the buildings have been preserved almost in their original form.

19. During the Vietnam War, the US Air Force bombed them mercilessly, because. the American command had suggestions that the headquarters of the Vietnamese partisans was located in Michon.
Most of the surviving figures of dancers and Hindu gods were moved to the Cham Sculpture Museum in Da Nang.

20. Some figures can be seen not only in Da Nang, but also here in My Son.
Several former tombs are equipped in the exposition of figures and sculptures found on the territory of Michon

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24. A lot of different lingams have been preserved in this architecture, including the most important one, as a symbol of childbirth and worship of the god Shiva.
About lingams I am in a separate story

25. There are very few tourists in Michon, which made me incredibly happy as a photographer.
It rarely happens nowadays that you can easily take pictures in such ruins without crowds of people

26. main tower Michonne

27. In addition to the central group of temples, some towers overgrown with vegetation can be found at some distance

28. There are 6 such groups in total.

29. Indian ornaments on the remains of temple walls

30. What else is worth noting is that despite the fact that the site is under the protection of UNESCO, you can walk everywhere. you can touch everything. No fences, fences, prohibitions, etc.

31. It can be seen from some buildings that they were restored - fresh brick is noticeable along with the old masonry

32. But the natural and climatic factors in these parts will quickly do their job and in a dozen or two years the "updates" will become completely invisible

33. Tower after restoration

34. And this is how the Vietnamese restore the destroyed towers. Under a canopy, protecting from rain and wind, carefully and carefully...

The official partner is the company

The complex was built around the fourth century. At the end of the 20th century, it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once upon a time, back in the period of its foundation, this place was the capital of Champa. The inhabitants of this large empire lived not only in the territory of the present ruins, but also far beyond them. The Chams came here from Java and Indonesia, and were the first people to bring Hinduism to Vietnam. A huge temple complex was erected by the Chams in honor of Shiva.

The name "Michon" is translated literally as " beautiful mountain". Everyone who has ever visited the temple was convinced of the appropriateness and full conformity of such a name. The ruins are surrounded by jungle and high mountain ranges. Even from the cracks in the walls of the once majestic building, numerous, sometimes amazing plants grow today.

Naturally, during construction, there were no cracks or chips. To increase the strength of the Chams, they used unique technologies that few people can use at present. The walls of the temple were built of brick, created during low temperatures, therefore, in its structure, it was soft. It was tightly stacked on top of each other, creating thick, strong walls. After the construction of the entire structure, it was burned with fire for a certain amount of time so that the material would hold together and become a single monolith. Surprisingly, bonding materials were never used in the construction.

The locals believed that Shiva knew about their desires, which he always fulfilled. As a rule, the Chams asked for an increase in the birth rate, as they thought that their strength was in numbers. This was due to the fact that the people came from afar and were not sure of their protection, for which more people were needed.

Protecting your territory has always been the overriding goal of the Chams. Many enemies gathered around the empire, among which were even the Chinese. In the 11th century, the Vietnamese nevertheless captured the territory of the Chams, moving them far to the south. However, Michon Temple was under their protection for several more centuries.

For many years, Michonne was hidden in the jungle from prying eyes, so very few people knew about his existence. The situation changed in 1889, when the French found the temple complex. By that time, almost ruins remained from it. However, French researchers immediately realized that they were dealing with an old holy place and soon came to grips with the restoration of the surviving buildings.

In 1969 began Vietnam War, which nullified all the efforts of restorers. It only took the bombers a week to level the sanctuary. However, some buildings managed to survive, and have survived to this day.

Michon architecture

The Michon complex consists of three areas suitable for tourist purposes. The first zone is represented by the fully preserved main temple, which consists of about ten small buildings. The buildings represent the stages of the development of the empire, the worship of Shiva. Today, this is the most impressive and interesting thing left of the temple.

The second zone suffered the most from the bombs, so there is nothing much to see there yet. In fact, scientists have not even begun to explore this place.

And finally, the third zone. This place is still being restored. But already now you can see the differences in the color, texture and age of the bricks. Compared to the first zone, this part is a modern temple building, made in the same way as during the construction of the Chams.

The history of mankind is such that, simultaneously with the discovery of new historical monuments, there is a destruction of similar to them. Michon did not escape such a fate.

Tourists

The temple is located in Vietnam not far from another representative of the world heritage - the city of Hoi An. You can get here from the nearest town of Da Nang. Entrance to the territory will cost about 7 dollars.