DIY spearfishing gun. How to make a speargun with your own hands How to make a speargun

In winter, you have enough free time that you can spend usefully. For example, make it in a home workshop. There are a wide range of modifications that you can make yourself. The article will describe how to make a spring gun with your own hands.

Design of spring underwater guns

The device ejects the harpoon under the action of the energy of a spring or springs that are in a compressed or stretched state.

The design of the handle is located approximately in the middle of the weapon, which makes it more maneuverable and provides optimal balance.

Ease of modification ensures a high degree of reliability. Spring spearguns for spearfishing are compact. This is especially true of models in which the spring is stretched, and the harpoon is placed inside it when charging. The handle is close to the barrel. These indicators help improve accuracy.

Advantages

The advantages of such weapons include low weight and accuracy, which contributes to the capture of nimble predatory fish.

If we compare a spring gun, which is based on compression, with a gun with rubber bands, the result of such a comparison will clearly not be in favor of the latter.

A gun with rubber has twice as many parts as a gun with a spring. Soft rubber bands deteriorate quickly. Fast moving parts (strings and a rubber harpoon) are also ineffective. In terms of the accuracy of the battle, it cannot be compared with a spring weapon, since in the latest product the harpoon is located in a long barrel that serves as an accurate guide.

Negative aspects of the product

A spring gun has a high noise level when firing a shot. During the charging process, the spring makes a squeaking noise. In order to reduce unwanted sounds, it is recommended to wipe the handle with a cloth moistened with glycerin.

It is quite difficult to make a spring underwater gun with your own hands. This is due to the fact that it is difficult to get stainless steel for the manufacture of springs. The heat treatment process of this part is also labor-intensive.

What materials will be needed?

To make a gun with your own hands you will need:

A metal wire with a diameter of 2 mm and a length of 12-16 m. The wire will become a spring.
Duralumin tube. Its internal diameter can vary from 12.5 to 13 mm. The tube will become the basis for the gun barrel. Craftsmen often use brass, which is almost not susceptible to oxidation in water.
To make a trunk, you can use a regular ski stick.
Two plates of the same shape made of plastic, the thickness of which is 10-12 mm. The handle of the gun is made of plastic. The material for it can also be nylon, vinyl plastic, beech, oak and aluminum.
A metal rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm. It will serve as the basis of the harpoon. You can also use stainless steel or silver.

In order to make a spring one, you will need perseverance and patience, since the work is painstaking. The process will require a lot of effort and time, but the result will exceed expectations.

Product dimensions

The average spring gun made at home can be no more than 900 mm long. The distance from the hook to the hole must be at least 75 mm, and the weight of the product must be 1.5 kg.

Homemade device power

With proper observance of all the rules, it is possible to achieve the fact that the product will have a sufficiently large shot force to hit fish of medium size and light weight. The operating radius will be approximately 3 m.

Making a spring

Many people are interested in making a piston gun with their own hands.

Before processing the wire, it should be heated to 300 ºС and cooled to room temperature. This technology helps to achieve spring strength and resistance to bending. The spring is heated and bent so that its ends are perpendicular to the axis.

You should start assembling an underwater gun at home with a spring. It is the most difficult part to complete, and its production will require the help of professionals. The part is made by a turner on a machine, then subjected to heat treatment. It is coated with an anti-rust coating.

The spring diameter should be 12 mm and the pitch should be 2 mm. Its length depends on the length of the trunk. Considering that the working force of the spring is aimed at compression, its length in this form should be 10 cm longer than the barrel. After firing a number of shots, the spring will shorten by 1/5. The initial length is taken taking into account this deformation.

Clip

The clip is one of the components of the underwater gun. Its base should be brass, the thickness of which is 1 mm. Holes are drilled on the sides. It is better to cut them out after bending the workpiece.

When assembling the clip, you will need to solder it to the barrel. The parts should be adjusted according to the slots and holes.

Trunk

The barrel length should be 600-750 mm. This length is optimal for hunting in bodies of water of any type.

Threads are cut at both ends of the pipe. Then a groove for the sear is cut in it. Its length should be 150-170 mm. Such a groove will allow you to regulate the firing force of the gun by simply moving the handle along the barrel. Holes are made in the trunk to allow water to quickly escape.

The plug and muzzle are machined from duralumin. A hole is drilled in the plug, into which a harpoon is then inserted to simplify transportation. When the barrel is ready, you can begin manufacturing the starting mechanism and handle.

Handle and trigger mechanism

Holes equal to the diameter of the barrel are drilled in the plates clamped in a vice. Then the contours of the handle are cut out on the plate. On each plate, using a cutter or file, a cut is made for the trigger mechanism, the depth of which is 3.5 mm.

Both halves of the handle should be connected to the barrel and pressed with screws. In front of the handle, a stop ring is attached to the barrel using a clamping screw. This manipulation is carried out to prevent the handle from sliding along the barrel. The assembly of the gun handle is completed by installing the trigger mechanism.

The release mechanism includes a sear, a fuse and a spring. The manufacture of these components is not particularly difficult and is carried out on a metalworking machine.

Making a harpoon

The harpoon is the main part of the weapon. It is made from durable steel rod. Its diameter should be 5 mm. At the main end for installation, cut an M5 thread and cut a hole for the line and harpoon. The rod should be hardened in a furnace. In addition, a sleeve is machined for the harpoon. It is better to use stainless steel for this purpose.

The harpoon should have a diameter of 6-8 mm. A sleeve slides along the harpoon, to which a line is attached. The sleeve must rest against the shank. It cushions from a PTFE ring. The shank, which fixes the harpoon, is machined in the form of a collet.

The tip is distinguished by simple execution. Additionally, a flag is made to hold the fish.

The harpoon tip must have a triangular or tetrahedral, but not a cone-shaped sharpening. Such arrows hit the fish better and easily cut the scales.

Line ejector

This is the last piece of the gun. It can be made from steel strip. The finished plate is attached to the barrel plug with a pair of screws.

When winding, the line is placed under the plate. At the same time, it is tied to the front sight. During the firing of the shot, the line comes out easily from under the plate and unwinds.

Insert manufacturing

The insert in the structure is designed to secure flat return springs. As a rule, its basis is textolite. It is glued to the holder, and after that the springs are glued to it.

Rivets

The spring gun is assembled using rivets. Their basis should be strong steel. To reel in a harpoon line, a special hook is required, which is made of brass or stainless steel. The hook is soldered to the base of the barrel. Springs in the fuse are usually used as a stopper for the two main positions. The base is steel, the thickness of which is 0.5 mm. Usually they use alloy grade 65 or carbon grade U8, U10, U10 A.

Safety regulations

The spring gun described in this article should only be loaded in a body of water. When going ashore, the weapon must be unloaded. The shot is made if the target is well traced, and the water is clean and transparent.

Product use

When everything is ready, you should fill the harpoon into the barrel so that it rests against the stop, then press the spring against the sear until it clicks. The sear is directed upward, and the barrel is pressed against the bushing. At the trigger moment, the spring performs translational movements, and then returns to its initial position. When the angler presses the start mechanism, the sear moves into the groove and makes room for the spring sleeve. By expanding, the spring helps push out the harpoon.

Airguns are very popular with spearfishers, but they require a lot of different parts to make and are very difficult to make. But there are also simpler designs, and we will tell you how you can make a spring speargun for spearfishing with your own hands. Such weapons are easy to make and quite simple to use.

Necessary materials

Before making a gun, you need to prepare the following materials:

metal wire. It should be between twelve and sixteen meters long and 2 mm in diameter. We will make a spring from wire;
duralumin tube. The barrel of a gun will be made from it, this material does not rust in water and is very good for underwater weapons. The inner diameter of the tube is from 12.5 to 13 mm. If you can’t find a tube, an ordinary ski pole will do;
two identical plastic plates. Their thickness should be from 10 to 12 mm. The handle of the gun will be made of plastic, but you can also take plates from nylon, beech, oak and aluminum;
metal rod for a harpoon. Its diameter is from 6 to 8 mm. The material can be stainless steel or silver.

Making a spring

If you are wondering how to make an underwater gun with your own hands, then its manufacture begins with a spring. Here you will need the help of a specialist, because it needs to be done on a lathe. After manufacturing, the spring should be thermally treated and coated against corrosion. The length of the spring depends on the length of the barrel and if we take into account that it works in compression, then the length of the spring should be 100 mm longer.

Manufacturing of other elements of underwater guns

Trunk. It is recommended to make the barrel length from 600 to 750 mm. Take a duralumin tube and cut a thread on both ends. Then you need to cut a groove in the tube from 150 to 170 mm long for the sear. Next, drill holes in the barrel, water will flow out of it quickly and easily. The muzzle and plug must be machined from duralumin. Drill a hole in the plug; a harpoon will be inserted into it for easier transportation.
Trigger mechanism and handle. Clamp the plates in a vice and drill holes in them equal to the diameter of the barrel. Then you need to cut out the contours of the handle on the plates. Now take a file and make a 3.5 mm deep cut on each plate for the trigger mechanism; you can also use a cutter for this. Connect the two halves of the handle on the barrel and press them with screws. Using a clamping screw, attach a thrust ring to the barrel in front of the handle, then the handle will not slide along the barrel. Assembly of the weapon handle ends with the installation of the trigger mechanism, which includes the trigger, sear, spring and safety catch. To manufacture such parts, you will need to perform simple plumbing work. For greater strength, it is recommended to harden the sear.
Harpoon. Homemade spearguns will not be useful without a harpoon. Its diameter ranges from 6 to 8 mm; a sleeve to which the line is attached will slide along the harpoon. The bushing should rest against the shank and absorb shock from the fluoroplastic ring. The shank fixing the harpoon is made in the form of a collet. The harpoon tip should be sharpened not to a cone, but to three or even four edges. Sharp edges pierce prey well, easily cutting fish scales. To hold the fish, you need to make an additional flag on the tip.
The last part of your gun is the line releaser, it is cut from a strip of steel. Fasten the finished plate to the barrel plug with two screws. When winding, the line is placed under the plate, and at the same time it must be tied to the front sight. When fired, the line will easily come out from under the plate and unwind freely.

This design of a homemade speargun not very difficult, easy and with good combat power. Numerous experiments and refinements yielded the desired result.

The picture shows a cross-section of a spring speargun for spearfishing.

The harpoon is made of steel rod Ø 5 mm (“silver”). An M5 thread is cut at one of its ends and a hole for the line is drilled. After mechanical processing, the harpoon is hardened. The sleeve - the guide for the harpoon - is machined from stainless steel or duralumin.

The barrel of the underwater gun is a 12x1 mm tube. Material - brass or stainless steel. To allow free passage of water when firing or loading, holes Ø 4-5 mm are drilled over the entire surface of the barrel in increments of about 10 mm. The piston is machined from stainless steel or duralumin.

By the way, both the bushings and the piston can be made from sections of 10x2.5 mm tube, which will completely eliminate turning work in the manufacture of the gun.

The mainspring is wound from OBC wire Ø 1.6 mm. Initially, a wire is wound onto a Ø 6 mm rod, turn to turn, which is then stretched to obtain the required pitch of 4.5 mm. To ensure that there is no residual deformation when processing the spring, the wire must be released, that is, heated to approximately 300°C and cooled to room temperature. The end coils, having become red-hot, must be bent so that their plane is perpendicular to the axis of the spring.

The clip of a speargun is cut from sheet brass or stainless steel 1 mm thick. It is advisable to cut holes on its side surfaces by inserting a board of a suitable size after the workpiece is bent. This will avoid errors in the location of the holes on the right and left cheeks of the clip. During assembly, the clip is soldered to the barrel, focusing on the position of the slot.

The hook is designed for winding a harpoon line onto it. It is cut out of brass or stainless steel and soldered to the end of the barrel.

The insert is made of textolite, it is intended for fastening flat return springs. The liner is riveted to the holder, the springs are also riveted to the liner. It is advisable to use steel rivets; in extreme cases, you can use ordinary nails.

Fuse springs designed to fix the fuse in two stable positions. The material is steel strip 0.5 mm thick, grade 65G or U10A. It is best to attach the springs to the cage with screws or rivets.

The rod for winding the line is a piece of steel wire 2 mm thick. One of its ends is bent into a ring, with the help of which the rod is attached to the trigger.

Today, underwater fishing is especially popular, for which fishing stores have a special tool - a speargun. There are two types of guns: harpoon and pneumatic. The first is more common and cheap, the second is complex in design and expensive. But it is not always possible to purchase weapons, so you can figure out how to make a gun with your own hands.

Before work begins on the manufacture of a gun, it is necessary to purchase components:

Wire grade OVS and 65 G, 16 meters.
Duralumin pipe, internal diameter 12.5−13 mm.
Gun handle, 2 plates can be used.
Rod for harpoon, diameter up to 1 mm.

gun making

The process of creating homemade guns with your own hands begins with the manufacture of a spring - the most difficult stage. A spring is made on a lathe, after which it is thermally treated and coated with a protective layer against corrosion. The spring should be 25-30 cm longer than the barrel, because after the first use it will shrink.

The next step will be making the barrel. You can use a regular ski pole as it. The length of the trunk should be from 60 to 80 cm, this also depends on the body of water in which the hunt will take place.

Then a slot of about 15-18 cm is cut in the barrel for the sear. It is this length that is responsible for the lethal force of the gun. Also at this stage, holes are made to drain water.

A muzzle with a plug is machined from a duralumin tube. A hole is made in it, where the harpoon is then inserted. At this point, the creation of the barrel comes to an end and the stage of constructing the trigger mechanism and handle begins.

The handle is made based on the size of the barrel. First, a contour is cut out from two plates. Then slots for the trigger are cut out in the plates with a file.

Next, a hole is made for the spring, fuse and sear axis. The two plates that were used for the handle are fastened together with screws. You can put a ring on the handle to prevent your hand from slipping along the barrel. It is better to entrust the manufacture of the trigger mechanism to a mechanic.

The final step is to make an easy release device and a harpoon of approximately 6 mm. The main material is stainless steel. Now the gun is ready and can be tested.

The gun has sufficient destructive power to hit a target at a distance of up to three meters. Its main drawback is noise. To get rid of this problem, the harpoon and spring are lubricated with glycerin.

Hawaiian model

The gun model received its name in honor of the Hawaiian Islands, where this simple device was used. The first design consisted of a conventional tourniquet and a harpoon. In this case, the rubber band clung to the thumb and was pulled towards the elbow, after which the harpoon was pulled. All you had to do was aim and release the tourniquet. But this method is not entirely convenient, since it is difficult to keep the harpoon taut at all times.

The production of such a design is not only of sporting interest, but also of economic benefit, because a specialized store sells even the simplest versions of the gun at a considerable price. In addition, when making a “Hawaiian” you can experience aesthetic pleasure, since it is always pleasant to deal with a thing made with your own hands.

To make a Hawaiian model you will need the following tools:

First of all, you need to saw off a 20 cm long part from the skewer, then clamp it in a vice, setting it to about 10-12 mm, then you need to bend the protruding part with the letter “G”.

The next step is to remove the skewer from the vice and bend the short part of the letter “G” in the opposite direction. Then you need to drill a 4 mm hole in the part.

In the middle of the short tube you need to drill a hole on both sides, with diameters of 4 and 5 mm and, stepping back from the edge by 1 cm, make 2 holes of 5 mm each.

You also need to drill an 8X2.5 mm hole in the short tube. The same procedure must be repeated in the aluminum tube, while drilling two 8 mm holes a centimeter from the edge.

You need to make a rope 40-50 cm long from rubber, then wrap it with nylon thread every 5 mm. You need to cut the cork from the prepared board and drill a 4 mm hole in it.

Aluminum wound design

This model is popular due to its tightness. The device must be assembled traditionally from the trunk. You can choose a small clip, which will allow you to better fix the winding. The best option for choosing a sear would be the three-prong version. You can choose any fuse.

The length of the line plays a huge role in this modification. At the last stage, a compensator is installed. It would be better to choose a trigger unit from a pneumatic, since it is difficult to manufacture.