How do ordinary Greeks live? Greek village of Portaria
Hello everyone, my name is Uliana, my family and I live in Athens. June 17 would have been an ordinary Sunday in the city, if not for the elections to the Greek Parliament. My husband is a conscious citizen and therefore decided that he would vote. Therefore, today we will go to the village of Dryopi, he is still assigned to the local polling station there. They say that Greece has everything, but it's not true. There are no absentee ballots, for example, and therefore mass migration of people always happens on election days. Fortunately, our village is in the Peloponnese, just 160 km from Athens. So we decided to leave in the morning and return in the evening. Either way, it's better than sitting at home. Now I understand that there was nothing special about that day, but I decided to tell about it anyway. Why did you take so many pictures? :) So stock up on popcorn. Under the cut - Greece as it is and my big Greek family. Photos of food, children and animals are strictly limited.
Our family wakes up at the beginning of the eighth, and it doesn’t matter what day of the week it is. And all because we have a one and a half year old boy. It's better than any alarm clock. You don’t need to start, if you want, you won’t oversleep.
Out of habit, I look at the weather outside the window. I'm looking in vain. There is always the same thing - the bright sun. In winter and summer - one color, this is about Athens. Who cares, but sometimes it annoys me. Could have included other weather for a change.
We have not yet come up with a new way to wash our faces in the morning, so there are no details here. After water procedures I turn to short gymnastics with my favorite dumbbell. Dumbbell is having fun. Me too. A good start day!
We go to the kitchen. Someone, as it were, hints that he has already stretched his legs from hunger.
Macaroni is my salvation. 10 minutes of silence is enough for me to quickly prepare a simple breakfast for all of us.
Our breakfast is normal. Dad usually drinks coffee with a computer.
And we eat porridge with colored pencils. Or with cars. And we can with cubes. No, it's not much tastier, but a little more fun.
It's already past ten and we're still digging. We must leave!
I remember the flowers on the balcony. I constantly forget about them and have to reanimate them. I decide that it is better to water now than in a week.
Finally ready. We're going to the elevator Here we are in all its glory!
Let's go! There is almost no one on the roads and it pleases.
While standing at the traffic lights, I look at the windows. Everywhere special offers. In the struggle for the buyer, all means are good. It seems that quite recently, a coffee for 1 euro and a haircut for 12 seemed unrealistic.
As soon as we left the autobahn, we spread our wings.
The road to the village is very beautiful, but this time I did not see it, because the boy and I fell asleep. When I woke up and saw the sea in the distance, I realized that we would arrive soon.
Half an hour later, finally the last turn.
Phew, they've arrived! You can disassemble the bag. It seems like they arrived for one day, but still I had to take a bunch of things with me. Traveling light is probably a thing of the past now.
The husband after the road immediately moves to his favorite sofa.
Watching sports news with his father. Yesterday the Greeks beat Russia and advanced to the 1/8 finals. And they celebrated as if they had become European champions.
The mother-in-law, as always, is busy with something. Now she is making a cheese pie with feta - tiropitu.
And the kid is delighted - a bunch of new cabinets and drawers!
I'm going to kindergarten. It is mine favorite place in the mother-in-law's house.
Checking grapes. Eh, at least another month to wait.
By the way, here's how long it's been:
Other actors appear on the stage. The husband's eldest son woke up. He is almost nineteen, now he serves in the Navy and came to his grandparents on vacation.
Husband's cousin came in for a minute, invited us to her place for coffee after dinner. My husband's brother also just got up. He used to live and work in Athens. Now he has moved to the countryside because there is no work in the city. In the village, it’s true, it’s not there either, but there is unemployment benefits. This, unfortunately, is now a typical situation for many families.
On Election Day, everyone talks about elections. What else is there to talk about? Therefore, at home, the passage courtyard is at its best - friends and relatives constantly come in, drink coffee and discuss what is happening. Sometimes they argue so that they do not hear each other.
The TV does not show well and the husband's sister goes to the roof to fix the antenna. I go with her. She also returned to live in the village. True, I don't know why. Although, when I go upstairs, I understand. You can't see this from any rooftop in Athens.
Still, the village in the mountains has its own charm.
Most people in the village get up very early, so lunch here is early. Today, modestly, but with taste - baked potatoes with pork. Time is almost an hour, but everything is ready!
Finally, everyone is gone and the family is gathering at the table. Sorry, there will be no details, I had to change the camera for a plug, you know, in big family beak is not clicked.
Ate - you can sleep. The male part of the family goes to take a nap. An hour or so. And then all three.
And I go for a walk in the village. How many times have I come here, but every time I find something new, which I can not pass by.
On the way out, the husband met his old friends. Since it takes at least 15 minutes for the average Greek to exchange greetings, I go for a walk around the school.
I found this abandoned house nearby and fell in love with it. Under the pines, overlooking the sea. It's a pity, only a ruin-a ruin. They say you can buy for 25 thousand. Now, due to the crisis in the village, many houses are being sold at ridiculous prices. As they say, there would be a desire ... Well, and opportunities, of course.
We returned home, and meanwhile it was almost five
Afternoon tea time. The husband's sister shared the tea she had brought from Edinburgh. She regrets that she didn’t buy it in tea bags, she says she was tired of spitting out tea leaves, but there is no strainer at home. I had to conduct a master class on the topic "Tewing in a mug." She was amazed. Still, Greece and tea are incompatible.
We decided not to sit at home, but to go to the sea, at the same time to visit, where we were invited. Ten minutes by car and we went down the mountain. Everything is completely different there, sometimes it even feels like you are on some kind of island.
Husband's cousin's house right by the sea. I love being with them.
Then we take a long walk along the beach. Leaving the pebbles in the water is a must-have entertainment.
We return home. Already evening. Our grandfather is constantly watching the preliminary results of the elections. He's been watching TV all day today, but his hopes are crumbling like a house of cards - his greens have lost the election again. Yes, they lost, they failed miserably.
The brothers are sitting on the mound near the house. They rarely see each other, but aptly, the elder is happy to tinker with the younger, and the younger cannot be dragged away from the elder.
My husband and I are leafing through a book by an Austrian journalist. Uncle bought a house in the village, photographed all the inhabitants of Dryopi, wrote several chapters about the history and modernity of the Greek village and gave each family one copy. It turned out very great.
For dinner - everyone's favorite tiropita. How many times I tried to repeat the mother-in-law's recipe, it doesn't work, even though you crack. No wonder her pie disappears in seconds.
It's time for us to go back, but the child is in a different mood. I run after him around the village and try to drive him home. We must get going, it's almost eight.
We said goodbye to everyone for a long time, loaded things even longer (we arrived with one bag, left with five), until we said goodbye again - it got dark. Finally got out. Twenty minutes later, the engine died. Okay, we didn't get far.
It turned out that the case was a pipe, or rather, a cable. In general, we decided not to risk it and return to the village, and in the morning sail to Athens on the very early first by ferry. By the time we got back, by the time everything was discussed with the family, by the time the bed had been made, it was already midnight and there was no time for photographs at all. It's time for bed, it's been a very long day. Thank you for spending it with us!
We stumbled upon the abandoned village quite by accident! On that day, we made a rather extreme outing into the canyon of the Nestos River, accompanied by. We did not fully imagine the starting point of our route, but we clearly imagined the place where we were supposed to arrive. It turned out, in general, not so bad! It would be worse if the opposite happened!
Hence the advice - always imagine end point route! But ... I digress from the topic! So, armed with experience local residents, we drove towards the village of Stavroupoli (Σταυρούπολη), not far from which we were going to start. On one of the mountain climbs, we met a herd of cows (probably 50 heads ...), walking towards us along the highway. We met this for the first time:
In the Stavroupoli area, we asked a local taxi driver how to get to the Canyon, and got to some small village of 3-4 houses in the mountains. (Keep in mind! They only speak Greek in these parts!) Here Andrei asked the locals about where we should go next ... The locals, seeing that we were walking in shorts and sandals, called me and my wife masochists, noting that we would go through everything only a kilometer, after which we will come back! I said the Russians don't give up!!! Then, one of them got into the car with us and accompanied us to the starting point.
I note that the sandals were not simple, but hiking with thick soles! Feet scratched a little - nothing more ...
6.
Greek village in the mountains
Winding along mountain serpentines, we arrived at an abandoned mountain village. The place was called Kato Livera (Κατο Λιβερα). We have never seen such a place! Before that, of course, I had to see the destroyed buildings in the cities of Greece, but so that the whole village lay in ruins ...
Abandoned village on the map:
There are a lot of destroyed buildings here! There were not very many photos, because. I filmed mainly from the car window, hurrying to the starting point, and I didn’t want to delay the Greek accompanying us.
I note that some buildings of the village had flags, maybe someone lives there, or comes here ... at least we didn’t see a soul here ...
The house is in good condition ... is anyone living? :
Another one:
A person who first enters the cozy Lak Valley is amazed at its silence. This silence is somehow special, there is no such silence anywhere else in the Crimea. The chalk mountains scorched by the sun stand silently. Wind does not shake trees. You can't hear the buzzing of the bees. Only a lone hare will run across the field strewn with huge red poppies. Nature is silent. But it is worth listening more closely to these mountains and trees, peering into the scarlet blood of poppies - and they will begin to speak. They will tell scary story, which has been stored for 60 years:
From time immemorial, the descendants of glorious listrigons lived here. In the vicinity of the village, the remains of the church of St. Trinity, erected at the beginning of the 15th century. And not far from it - the ruins are even more ancient temple with the remains of the cemetery. On one of the tombstones there is an inscription dating back to 1362. The blood of proud Theodorites flowed in the veins of the locals. That real indigenous Crimean people, who was respected far beyond the peninsula.
It has always had its own little world. The villagers were not particularly interested in the events that took place further than Mount St. Elijah towering over Laki. People grew excellent tobacco, grapes, raised cattle, raised children. Strangers were not particularly allowed in, although they were always welcomed cordially. The whole village was made up of several dynasties that lived here from time immemorial. The melodic Greek surnames Spai, Leli, Arvanidi come from these places. This is how the Lak land would have given birth to new hard-working Crimeans, if on one dank winter morning in 1942, a car with Germans had not stopped at the house of the chairman of the Neo Zoya collective farm, Vladimir Lelya. From that moment on, another life began in Laki.
The Germans, in their indignant rage, decided to wipe Lucky from the face of the earth. All houses, warehouses, a farm, a club were destroyed and burned. Punishers could not destroy to the ground only the church. beautiful temple St. Evangelist Luke, which the villagers restored in 1904 on the site of the old one, is still standing. Nowhere in the Crimea is there a temple like this. It is individual not only for its architecture. He is individual in his spirit. The stay of dozens of human restless souls is clearly felt here. It seems that all of them are those who burned in hellfire, who were not betrayed according to the custom of their ancestors. native land gathered within these walls. The temple stands on a hillock, surrounded by a dense wall of weeds - nettles, sorrel. In front of the entrance on the ground are stone blocks from the destroyed dome of the bell tower. The altar was completely destroyed, but the frescoes were preserved. In some places, the gloomy faces of saints, angels, a lion, an eagle and an ox are clearly visible. Above the frescoes are ugly inscriptions of modern vandals. Without them, to our regret and shame, more than one Crimean monument of antiquity is not conceivable:
60 years have passed since the Lak tragedy, but the wound is still bleeding. Decades have not been able to erase from the memory of people the terrible details of the destruction of an entire village, on the site of which is now a plowed field. Not even the foundations remained, wells were buried, only a dilapidated church and a modest monument remind us that here, in the village of Laki, the Greeks lived from ancient times. They worked hard, had fun, fell in love, until trouble came to their homes...
On March 23, 1942, the village of Laki was captured by the Nazis and destroyed. Why was this village burned down? Why were the Nazis so merciless towards its inhabitants? Historian Panteleimon Kesmedzhi in the book "Greeks of Crimea" cites the words of the commander of the Bakhchisaray partisan detachment Mikhail Andreevich Makedonsky, later the commander of the Southern formation of partisan detachments of Crimea. He says that his detachment owed its existence to the inhabitants of Laki, who provided assistance to the partisans with food, clothing, and in cold weather arranged for quarters. There were many other villages around, but at least a few traitors lived in each of them, and in Laki everyone supported the pre-war government, the Village Council worked, on the building of which the red flag defiantly fluttered.
Yury Mikhailovich SPAI, the nephew of Nikolai Konstantinovich Spai, the legendary scout of the Karasubazar partisan detachment, who carried out special assignments from the central headquarters, witnessed the destruction of the recalcitrant village. Nikolai Spai was betrayed by a traitor and hanged by the Nazis. One of the streets in Belogorsk was named after him. Yuri Mikhailovich Spai is already over seventy. Then, in 1942, he was a thirteen-year-old boy.
“When the Nazis defeated the partisan detachment, those who remained alive came to our village. On March 23, 1942, the village was surrounded by Germans and volunteers - Crimean Tatars from the punitive battalion,” says Yuri Spai. “All the inhabitants were gathered in front of the Village Council, searched. Apparently, the Germans received a denunciation because, despite the fact that they did not find anything suspicious, they immediately drove aside more than thirty men. Among them were my uncle and two brothers. I, then still a naive teenager, came up and asked: "Uncle Mitya, Why are you here?" And he answered me in Greek, so that the Tatars would not understand, "Yura, go away, otherwise they will kill you too. We are being led to the execution.” This cannot be forgotten... The village was set on fire, dogs barked loudly, people were seized with panic. All the "dirty" work was done by the Tatars. Yury Mikhailovich's aunt was tied to a bed, and her eight-month-old child was thrown into the fire like a rag. The woman screamed until the burning roof collapsed on her. The fire destroyed all 87 households. Those who survived, including Yuri Spai, accompanied by Crimean Tatar volunteers, were sent through Bakhchisarai to Oktyabrskoye.
Seventeen lives were taken by the war in the Spai family, Yura's father died, his mother went to the partisan detachment. After the liberation of Crimea, Yura and his mother received housing in Bakhchisarai. It would seem that life began to improve. But fate gave these people only a month of respite. Years of 1944 the Greeks were expelled to the Crimea.
The Greek people honor the memory of those who died 60 years ago. Every year, on March 23, Greeks come from all over the once vast country, pay tribute to the memory of the dead, lay flowers. "What did you feel?" - I ask Yuri Mikhailovich a not entirely tactful question. He simply answers: "I cried." And today it is a shame for an elderly person that "they dug up everything, not even leaving the foundations - witnesses of the tragedy. They did this, probably, so that no one would ever ask where the people had gone." There is not enough money to erect a worthy monument to the Orthodox Greeks. The "Muslim" Reskomnats, - says Yuri Mikhailovich, - finds funds only for the needs of the Crimean Tatars. And all of us, illegally evicted in the distant forty-four, need to get together. And the Crimean Tatars must admit their guilt and repent before the Greek people." But instead ... in a modest monument, erected on voluntary donations, there are three bullet holes gaping. Residents of the surrounding villages, lowering their voices to a whisper, say: "The Tatars shot!"
I. Kovalenko, Russkiy Mir
Logduz. Church of Cosmas and Damian This term has other meanings, see Village (meanings). Village Russian name rural locality with n ... Wikipedia
VILLAGE- wives. a peasant village without a church. A village, a village, a village will diminish. | Arkhan., Vologda. field, strip, land, wasteland; arable land. | app. pile of cut down trees. | Wooden house, opposite kamenitsa. At the tradesman new village… … Dictionary Dalia
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village- A village, a settlement, a settlement, a village, a town, a tract, a farm, the whole. Wed place... Dictionary of Russian synonyms and similar expressions. under. ed. N. Abramova, M .: Russian dictionaries, 1999. village, village, settlement, settlement, village, town, ... ... Synonym dictionary
VILLAGE- VILLAGE, villages, pl. villages, villages, villages, wives. 1. A small peasant village. There are twenty households in the village. 2. collected Inhabitants of the village. "Look, it's hay time, the whole village is in the meadow." Nekrasov. || Rural population,… … Explanatory Dictionary of Ushakov
Village- in the narrow sense, a small close-knit rural community. A village in a broad sense is a socio-territorial community, characterized by a small concentration of the population in a localized space compared to a city, occupied mainly ... ... Financial vocabulary
village- VILLAGE, and, VILLAGE, and, well. An uncouth, rude, uncultured person. You are a village, not an associate professor. What are you, a village, picking your nose, better go and pick a cow under the tail ... Dictionary of Russian Argo
VILLAGE Big Encyclopedic Dictionary
Village- Village. Hillbilly (foreigner) unhewn, rough in manner, ignorant. Wed “What a village guy (hillbilly), he doesn’t recognize icons from a shovel!” Wed In general, he was still a real peasant, not understanding much that is so understandable to a soldier, and he did not ... Michelson's Big Explanatory Phraseological Dictionary (original spelling)
VILLAGE- VILLAGE, and, pl. and, ven, listen, wives. 1. Peasant village. On the outskirts of the village. 2. unit The same as the village (in 2 meanings). 3. units Rural population. Material needs of the village. To the village of grandfather (colloquial) at a deliberately incomplete, inaccurate address ... ... Explanatory dictionary of Ozhegov
Village- in the narrow sense, historically established in the Russian language, a small rural settlement (smaller ones were called settlements, repairs, farms, zaimok, etc.; see also Selo). In a broad sense, the concept of a village covers the entire complex ... ... Political science. Dictionary.
Books
- Village He, Bezhin L. As the holy fool from Yakimanka predicted, so it happened. In the village of He, beyond the Arctic Circle (the exiled locum tenens of the patriarchal throne, Metropolitan Peter, was languishing there), the executed were resurrected…
Greece is not only the sea and beaches. The country has many beautiful traditional villages hidden in high mountains. Here you can escape from the heat and admire the sea from afar. We will show you the most Beautiful places Greece, where there is always something to see and which has not yet been completely spoiled by crowds of tourists!
Chora Folegandros - for the sophisticated traveler
This is a tiny village hanging on the edge of a cliff at an altitude of 200 meters above sea level. The walls of the houses are white and the wooden balconies are colorful. The oldest houses in the village are part of the castle. From here opens great view to the deep blue waters of the Aegean.
Galaxidi - for the curious traveler
In the past, Galaxidi was a shipbuilding center, and every family had sailors. Currently it's quiet fishing village with unique cafes and restaurants serving fresh seafood. Here you can see the houses of old captains and imagine their glorious past. It is better to visit the village in February-March, when during the carnival there are "torment wars" in which the whole village participates.
Zagori - for the energetic traveler
Zagori covers an area of 100 square kilometers. It consists of 46 villages with a population of 3,700 people. This area in northern Greece is crossed by a river. Here is one of the deepest and narrowest canyons in the world. This is one of the most scenic routes. Before construction modern roads villages were connected by cobblestone paths and stone arch bridges that still exist.
Monemvasia - for the romantic traveler
Monemvasia - huge sea rock in southern Greece, connected to the mainland by a narrow bridge. On the rock is ancient castle, inside which a medieval village was built, where pirates have found shelter for centuries. In fact, the first inhabitants of the rock were people seeking refuge from persecution.
Mani Peninsula - for history buffs
This is a well-preserved area in southern Greece where the same families have lived for centuries. Everyone remembers the historical past, when the area was called Areopolis. Here in 1821 the flag of the Greek Revolution was raised. Thanks to this memory, castles and churches have not changed, and the streets are still paved with stones. Some of the houses in the village have become small hotels.
Molyvos (Mithimna) - for lovers of fun drinks
Molyvos - tourist village on Greek island Lesvos. Tourists return here year after year, as they appreciate the hospitality of the locals, Tasty food And beautiful landscapes. Traditional houses and shops surround the hilltop castle and stretch along the coast to one of the most picturesque harbors in Greece.
Sirakon - for lovers of delicious food
Sirakon is a village in the west of Greece, which is hidden in the mountains of Tzoumerka. It was built on a steep slope to be able to protect its inhabitants from enemies. Cars are not allowed in the village, so you have to walk. Some beautiful old houses have been turned into hotels.
Dimitsana - for lovers of atmospheric rest
The historic village of Dimitsana is located near a gorge in southern Greece. She played an important role during the revolution. It was here that the water mills were made most of gunpowder and flour. Some of the mills have survived to this day. And in the museum you can get acquainted with the history of the village.
