How Russians live in Bali. Food in Bali: A Delicious Overview. You must be able to drive a moped

I will say right away: I do not see any reason to live in Bali, unless you are a surfer and not a volcano explorer. Surfing in Bali is a paradise. Nature on the island fantastic beauty: mountains, waterfalls, green fields and rice terraces. But that's all. This will be the first impression of a few days. And if you decide to stay on the island longer, you will certainly encounter another, real side of life in Bali. This is what I want to talk about in this article. It will be useful to anyone who plans to move and live in Bali. Instructions for renting housing in Bali with a description of all areas are located.

Crime and corruption

We must recognize the fact that Indonesia is a third world country with all the ensuing consequences. First of all, it is poverty and a huge stratification of society, monstrous corruption at all levels of government, non-compliance or ignorance of laws and a high level of crime. Tourists are especially often victims of criminals. Most likely the tourist already has return ticket and there is no time to investigate the crime. Most likely, he does not know the Indonesian language and will not be able to explain anything to the police.

Crime in Bali is a constant and hot topic on local forums. Try to google, and you will find hundreds of real stories about Bali being robbed of apartments, villas, stealing things from cars, stealing bikes. Many have come to terms with this and say that “this is how it is everywhere”. No, guys, it's not like that everywhere. In Bali, the chances of being robbed are much higher than in India, Thailand or China. If you like to constantly be in suspense and think about the safety of your property, then welcome to fabulous Bali.

Street crime in Bali

You have probably already read how bags and phones are torn out of hands in Bali, backpacks are torn off (even if you are riding a bike) and other delights. If you have been robbed or robbed of a car or house, you can assume that there is no chance of finding the perpetrators. The police can only find a bunch of reasons not to accept your application, and if they accept, they will not do anything. Even if you yourself find the thieves and point them out to the police, they will not do anything. My friends got out of the car and stole a bag with an iPhone. Through the application, it was possible to establish its location up to the house. However, the police did nothing. It turns out that in Indonesia the police do not solve anything. The banjars, the councils of the elders, decide. An informal structure, like a village council. They can influence the police or even find criminals, but they will have to somehow negotiate because they will not do anything for free.

Carding and skimming in Bali

A very common type of fraud in Bali is skimming (plastic card cloning). An inconspicuous reader is installed on the ATM, which copies the card data and pin code. In the future, scammers make a clone of the card and withdraw money with it. Try to google the English internet and you will see hundreds of stories of people losing all their money months after a two week holiday in Bali.

This phenomenon is massive and put on stream. The police and banks do nothing. Opinions are openly expressed that data copying credit cards happens at the level of ATMs and bank security services, which then simply sell the data to fraudsters. I have no doubts about this, since the level of corruption in the country is really very high. It is almost impossible to prove the guilt of the bank, and how will you do it if the Indonesian police are investigating the case?

Charges on the roads

Separately, it is worth mentioning the topic of extortions that the local traffic police arranges on the roads. A particularly desirable victim for the police will be European tourist on a bike and of course without a license. I have already told you how it is possible, which operate in all countries of the region, including Indonesia. But even when I presented such a certificate, the police told me that this certificate was not valid here and that I had to pay a fine. They may also say that you have a bad helmet, problems with your bike, or some other problem that you have to pay them for. Ask them to write a protocol. In many situations, this upsets the police and they let go. There were cases when the police tried to snatch money directly from the wallet, when tourists took it out to find rights there. The police on the roads behave very arrogantly and familiarly.

Where can you fly cheap from Bali?

Dirt and trash

This is what catches your eye from the first minutes of your stay on the island. Even the most prosperous and environmentally friendly areas such as Bukit will delight you with frequent dumps along the roads. For an Indonesian, throwing trash out a car window or on the beach is a common thing. We have repeatedly witnessed and even sometimes returned their garbage back to them. Bali is beautiful place, with crazy beautiful nature, but because of the mountains of garbage, your impression will be forever spoiled.

In Bali, you rarely meet an urn or a janitor, so locals garbage is simply burned right next to the roads.

Internet in Bali

For me personally, this turned out to be the main problem, which significantly lowered the rating of Bali as a place to live. To be honest, I don't understand how all these thousands of freelancers live and work here. It doesn't matter what type of connection you use: a SIM card, fiber optic or radio modem - the entire Internet in Bali comes through several very weak backbone channels. And on the island itself, at the moment, almost 3 million people live, and each of them has a smartphone that is connected to the Internet. As you might guess, the channel is simply not enough for everyone. Whatever type of connection you use, you will always face the problem of slow internet and session disconnection. Bad internet is what makes life in Bali much more difficult for me personally.

Roads and traffic

In terms of trash and disorder, Balinese roads can only be compared with Indian ones. There is one difference - average speed in Bali is much higher than in India. The roads in Bali are very narrow, people will walk on them, they will dry clothes and rice on them. I have not seen road markings, and lighting is only on major highways. Add to this terrible traffic jams and you get absolutely hellish and dangerous traffic. Trips to the neighboring beach will seem easy to you only on Googlemaps. In reality, they take a lot of time and effort.

During my life in Bali, I met another very interesting phenomenon - this paid parking. Money will be taken from you everywhere: on the beach, near the store or near the temple. Naturally, no one will guard your car or bike.

Uber and Grab operate everywhere on the island. But there are areas where the drivers of these services do not call, as local taxi drivers do not like them. The prices for the service are lower than the Central Asian ones.

Bali beaches

If you have ever been to Goa or Phuket, then the Bali beaches will not impress you at all. The beaches in Kuta are dirty and you don’t want to swim there at all. The beaches in the south in Bukit are clean, but hard-to-reach places. They are cut off by high cliffs. You need to either go down the stairs for a long time, or along a long serpentine on a bike. On southern beaches always very windy and huge waves. Therefore, it’s impossible to swim there just like that, but for surfers it’s real paradise. The beaches in the north are quieter, and you can swim, but they are all rocky, and the rare sand on them is black. northern beaches ideal for diving and snorkeling. They are quiet and deserted.

Rain season. Climate in Bali

It was a discovery for me that in Bali there is a rainy season in December-January and it is quite noticeable. When planning your trip to Bali, keep this in mind. The rainy season here is not the same as in Phuket, when the downpour passes and after 10 minutes it is already dry. In Bali, the sky will be completely covered with dense clouds for two months. Sometimes a downpour can go on for a day or more without a break, so that it will be very problematic to move around.

In the rainy season, the activity of all kinds of living creatures and insects increases. For example, mosquitoes that carry dangerous viruses such as dengue fever. Last time a strong epidemic on the island was in 2017.

Another important point- this is a very strong humidity, due to which many things become moldy. Local habitually solve the problem of mold by treating things with a solution of vinegar. Take note of this lifehack, it will really come in handy for life in Bali!

Safety hacks in Bali

• Choose ATMs that are located in bank branches. Avoid stand-alone ATMs at intersections and busy streets in Bali. Visually check the ATM for foreign installations on the card capture reader and keyboard.
• Use two cards. One is for basic savings and the other is for cash withdrawals. Top up the second card with exactly the amount you want to withdraw.
• If you have one card, then create a deposit on it and withdraw small amounts from the deposit that you plan to cash out or spend.
• Don't take out your phone when riding your bike in the evening. At night, robbers, with lights off, catch up with tourists and grab phones or bags. Very often, in Bali, criminals snatch the phone from the bike passenger when he is navigating the navigator or taking pictures.
• Houses and villas rented by tourists are regularly robbed and video surveillance does not save. It will be very good if there is a safe in the house where you live. The safe must be bolted to the wall tightly with anchor bolts. Leave all valuables in the safe - this will make your life in Bali a little more relaxed.
• It is better not to settle in a villa next to which there is a construction site. It is believed that the villas are often robbed by visiting guest workers from the island of Java. In general, the Balinese blame all the problems with crime on visitors.
votes

There are more and more people wishing to move to Bali every year. A more pleasant climate, the proximity of the ocean, the relative cheapness of life. People think Bali is real perfect place for living, but is it really so?

moving

Before you pack your things, buy a one-way ticket and get on a plane with optimistic thoughts, it's worth talking to those people who already live in Bali. Ask about all the problems they faced, about the difficulties. It is advisable to talk not only with one person, so as not to form too subjective an opinion.

Naturally, you need to buy a ticket in advance to save money. There are two options for getting to Bali:

• with a connection organized by one airline - the most convenient method in which you do not have to worry that you will not have time for a transfer and look for your luggage at a foreign airport. You should not pay attention to Chinese companies, it is better to fly with more or less well-known lines (Qatari or Emirates);
• connecting flights through Asian cities neighboring the island - in this case there will be several transfers, and tickets will have to be bought separately, and luggage is usually not included in the price. You need to allow more time for a transfer in order to accurately catch the next flight. The option is only suitable experienced travelers who speak good English.

To buy a ticket you need international passport And bank card with CVV code on the back. All data is entered only in Latin.

Most people use a one-month visa, which is issued upon arrival at the airport. The questions asked by the border guards are standard: where will you live, for how long and what is the purpose of the trip (there can be no options other than tourism). Then it can be extended for another 30 days. After their expiration, you will need to go to neighboring country to get a visa again. However, if you want to stay in Bali for a long time, you can pay attention to other types of visas:

• social - valid for 6 months and obtained in advance at the Indonesian embassy in your country. It, like a visa on arrival, does not allow you to do business and work in general. Of the documents you will be required to: passport, return ticket, letter of invitation from the sponsor, which can be any Indonesian;
• working - will be required for those who plan to work or open their own business on the island. Naturally, freelancers can do without it, but it still won't be too legal. The employer must make such a visa, and if you are running a business, you can get it for your legal entity;
• business - designed for people who often fly to Indonesia and do not want to get a visa at the airport every time. It is also relevant if you plan to shop in Bali, and then transport goods to your country. Each stay under this type of visa should not exceed 2 months;
• pension - suitable for those who meet the following conditions: reaching the age of 55, having a bank account, a health certificate from medical institution. The visa is issued for 1 year, then it can be extended for 5 years, after which the person gets the right to apply for permanent residence.

It is worth taking seriously the choice of a visa, because if you work without work visa, this threatens with deportation and a fine from the immigration service.

Insurance

Insurance is something that should never be forgotten. Many for some reason ignore the cost of it, but if something happens (traffic accident, animal bite, dengue fever) and you are hospitalized, then the bill for payment medical services will be huge. Therefore, if a person plans to spend a long time on the island, the purchase of insurance is mandatory. Moreover, even the initial examination in the clinic will cost from $70.

Insurance is done at home, before departure, and the cost depends on the number of days that you plan to spend in another country. The company must be chosen carefully, focusing on the following points:

• work with clinics in Bali by bank transfer;
• cooperation with international hospitals for foreigners;
• the possibility of obtaining special sports insurance (needed for surfers).

One of the most preferred options is to contact Ingosstrakh, especially since they even offer online service.

Of course, all people spend money in different ways. Someone is unpretentious and can eat in cheap local eateries, and live in ordinary guest houses or inexpensive small rooms. Others prefer more comfortable conditions: a chic hotel or apartment with several bedrooms, food from European restaurants and other amenities. That is, there is no universal answer to the question: “how much money do you need to live in Bali?” Let's try, however, to roughly estimate the possible costs of an average person staying on the island.

Housing

Housing makes up the bulk of the costs. You can rent a villa for $1,800 a month, or you can huddle in a guest house room for $140. It also matters if you live alone or with your family.

Most cheap option, as already mentioned, I will eat rooms in the guesthouse. It can be with hot water and air conditioning or without these services. Breakfast is also sometimes included in the price. Eat guest houses better ones, which have their own pool, separate entrances to the rooms and other amenities.

If we talk about individual houses, then the prices for them start from 300-400 dollars. However, one must understand that the fee, most likely, will have to be paid a year in advance, and this is a rather impressive amount. Housing with a pool starts from 800-900 dollars, and a real European villa - from 2000.

Also, the money will be spent on various utilities: electricity, internet, gas service, garbage collection, local fees. This applies to those who rent a house or villa. People who live in guest houses usually do not contribute individual payments for electricity, since they have everything included in the price.

Transport

You should not count on moving around the island by public transport. It either doesn't exist at all, or it's a waste of time. It is best to put in the budget an item on the cost of a scooter. This is the most convenient way move around Bali. The cost will be approximately $80 per month. The car will cost several times more, but it is not very profitable due to constant traffic jams, spending on gasoline, parking and other unforeseen circumstances (like toll roads or repair). To drive a car, you will also need driver license international standard.

Food

The price tag for food in Bali is, of course, cheaper than in Moscow. But in every worthwhile restaurant they will throw a 10% tax and a mandatory tip, sometimes reaching 10%. Speaking more specifically about prices, then:

• local dishes in a small eatery - $ 3-4;
• European food in a cafe - from $ 10;
• a popular restaurant in a tourist place - from $ 20 per dish.

Naturally, you can buy food and cook on your own, then the expense item will slightly decrease, although it must be borne in mind that the cost of even milk and eggs is higher than in Moscow.

Of course, some save on absolutely everything, do not go anywhere and eat rice, but can you really enjoy this lifestyle?

The regions of Bali are very diverse, so when choosing where to move, you need to take into account their features. Basically, it all depends on what type of recreation a person prefers. So, conditionally, all places can be divided into:

• "Party" - entertaining. If a person does not need privacy at all, and he prefers a bright nightlife, then only Kuta and Seminyak will suit him. The first area is more for surfers and youth; the second is filled with trendy restaurants, villas, so wealthier people prefer it. In addition, in these two areas, you will not even need to spend money on renting a vehicle, everything is located close enough. Due to the noise and constant parties, it rarely happens that a family with children lives in Bali in this area;
• for surfing. Canggu or the Bukit peninsula will be a great choice for those who know how to ride a board or want to learn it. The places located there are picturesque and green, and the beaches are quite deserted, sometimes they don’t even have sunbeds or umbrellas for vacationers;
• beach. For admirers of such a holiday, Nusa Dua, Jimbaran and Sanur are suitable. Also, these places are ideal for families with children, as they are not so noisy. However, we must remember that since there is an ocean near Bali, there will always be waves, in some places the bottom is reef or rocky. For this reason, going to the island for the beaches is not a good idea;
• secluded. Looking for relative loneliness a relaxing holiday maybe in Ubud. Around will be green and original, rice fields and winding rivers. In fact, there is no ocean at all. Creativity flourishes in Ubud, and every surrounding village is famous for some kind of handicraft.

In principle, everyone will find a place to stay that suits their interests. And it's best to try to stay in each area for a while to form your own opinion.

Everyone who has lived in Bali for even a relatively short period of time knows that the island offers a huge amount of entertainment and activities. What to do in your spare time?

• go surfing, diving, snorkeling;
• meditate, go to yoga classes (especially in Ubud);
• lie on the beach;
• create, attend various master classes;
• go on numerous excursions;
• conquer active volcanoes;
• get acquainted with the customs and traditions of ethnic Balinese villages;
• visit beautiful temples;
• walk along the rice terraces;
• attend Balinese ceremonies;
• participate in holidays and celebrations;
• get to know the local cuisine.

Job

Do not think that after arriving on the island, work will find you by itself. You will have to put in some effort. In Bali, there are many expats of different qualifications and specialties, so the competition is quite high.

It is important not to despair and look for work constantly. You need to understand that there is not and will not be much diversity among vacancies. Most offers in tourist area as well as the service sector. It is much easier for good yoga instructors, photographers, manicure and pedicure masters, and nannies to find work than specialists with various kinds of liberal education. English teachers, employees of shops and hotels, as well as waiters are also required.

There are no special search sites (except for groups on social networks), so it is best to contact employers directly. The relative cheapness of life on the island means that salaries will also be small. It is not worth counting on a salary of more than $ 1000, only increases in the form of bonuses and bonuses are possible.

So, you can find a job in Bali, but it is not so easy, especially if a person expects high wages.

Own business

One job option that seems attractive enough at first glance is self-employment. First of all, you need to decide on the scope of activity. To open a company, you must obtain a license, having previously collected a package of documents.

The main feature of a business in Bali is to attract a local partner, otherwise it will not work to open a business. Therefore, the question arises: how to find a respectable Balinese who speaks English well and is interested in overall success, and not just in personal enrichment.

In addition, the tax is also large: it can be 10% or 30%. It really depends on the type of company. Also, the budget is hit by the need to have an office, which must be located exclusively in a commercial institution and be operational. It is worth noting that this is a really significant expense item, since usually a lease agreement is concluded for a year, and the owners demand payment immediately for the entire period.

Due to its proximity to the equator, Bali is characterized by approximately the same temperature regime throughout the year - about 28 degrees Celsius. Therefore, holidays on the island cannot be called seasonal: there are always a lot of tourists.

There are only two seasons, relatively speaking: the dry season (April to October) and the rainy season (November to March). The latter is not as severe as in other Asian countries. Rains begin suddenly and end the same way, lasting no more than 2 hours usually. The sun comes out right after them, so everything dries up quickly. Most often they go at night, so they do not cause any particular inconvenience to tourists and local residents. In any case, at this time it is undesirable to leave the house without an umbrella, because the weather changes suddenly and unexpectedly. The biggest plus of the rainy season is warm (rather than hot) weather and warm water, although it can be muddy due to the waves.

The dry season is characterized by freshness due to the light breeze from the ocean. It can even get chilly in the evenings, so make sure to bring a sweater or warm cape with you just in case. The peak of this season falls on July and August, so those who do not like heat and stuffiness prefer these months for a visit. By the way, surfers will definitely need a good wetsuit to keep warm in the mornings and evenings.

Difficulties

People who lived in Bali, as the difficulties they had to face, call the following points:

• the ability to transfer dengue fever, it is impossible to vaccinate against it, but you must definitely go to the hospital;
• without knowledge of English, there is almost no chance of finding a good job with a decent salary;
• many people think that Bali is small island ok, where there are not so many people and you can retire. This is not at all true: the number of tourists and expats is increasing every year, so it will not be possible to be alone with yourself;
• there are opportunities to discover in Bali own business, however, this is a very laborious process, associated with a high level of competition in almost any field;
• foods familiar to Russians and Europeans are expensive, sometimes in local cafes food is cheaper
• life goes too slowly because of the mentality of the local population: they are leisurely, which is sometimes very annoying. Besides, in government bodies corruption and bureaucracy flourish, so communication with them should be limited;
• not knowing the local language (bahasa), it is likely that they will sell goods to you in other, naturally, more high prices, so if you go for a long time, then you need to learn the language;
• foreign citizens cannot buy real estate in Indonesia, so the only option is to rent;
• a fairly high crime rate, and the police not doing their job too well;
• rubles to rupees ( local currency) it is unprofitable to change, it is better to have a dollar card with you right away.

All these problems are usually crossed out fresh air, the absence of city fuss and a calm rhythm of life with a large number of entertainment for every taste.

Despite all the difficulties, it is difficult to find out whether it is good to live in Bali or not for you personally, if you do not try it yourself. Perhaps it is best to first stay there for a month or two to assess the situation, to understand whether the climate is suitable or not, to get acquainted with the local mentality. Usually this happens quite quickly, since the Balinese are very pleasant and hospitable, and the representatives of the Russian diaspora also support each other, communicating both personally and through groups on social networks.

This place is called the island of the gods: a paradise in the Indian Ocean, where beautiful beaches and cheap life attracts exotic lovers from all over the world. As part of the Lenty.ru project, we talked with Alexei about Russians who left for other countries. He moved to Bali seven years ago.

I was born and raised in St. Petersburg, but I decided to go to university in the capital, where I learned to be a programmer. The soul has always been in web design; Actually, I did all of them. free time and after graduating from university began to draw sites. He was never attached to the office, he worked, as they say, “on wheels”. Either I’ll hit the road in St. Petersburg, I’ll live there for a week or two, then I’ll visit friends in Finland. I could work from anywhere, as long as I had the Internet and inspiration. At some point, everything got tired - it became boring in Moscow, and I also got tired of driving around like that. I read on the forums how people live and work in Asia, and thought, why not. There is work, which means money too, there were no relationships at that time, I was not particularly attached to anyone. Started choosing a country.

An easy choice

Asia was also attractive because life there is cheaper than, say, in Europe. When I left, the sad events with the ruble exchange rate were still far away, so I didn’t bother much about whether I had enough money or not.

The choice was between Goa, Sri Lanka and Bali. In the first version, it didn’t suit the fact that this is, in fact, India, and it’s dirty there and it’s very cheap - people come there in droves. I have been to Sri Lanka, in general, everything was fine, but it seemed somehow boring. Bali really attracted me: I had never been there, I heard a lot of good things about this island, and besides, I had a friend there who promised to help with housing, and generally bring me up to date. That's where I sharpened my skis.

ticket to heaven

I am not one of those who likes to romanticize and dramatize everything too much. Moved very easily and quickly. It took me two or three weeks to settle things in my homeland - to sell the car, say goodbye to everyone and buy some minimum necessary things. I remember that first of all I stocked up on medicines: they told me that everything is different there and if you get sick, it will not be easy to quickly find the right medicine. So I bought everything with a margin - some antiviral pills, ointments, antibiotics. I took one suitcase with me - I decided that I would get everything I needed on the spot. I read that it’s better to get long-term insurance in Russia, because if something happens, it’s too expensive to go to a hospital in Bali. And the insurance company has to pay everything. By the way, the insurance was useful to me.

I didn’t have to bother with a visa - it was issued upon arrival, and it could be extended in order to stay on the island for a total of two months. Then you fly to a neighboring country to eat ice cream and the next day you can return to Indonesia again.

I bought a one way ticket to Bali. Initially, I needed to find housing and generally understand how life on the island works. Therefore, the first month I had a vacation, I did not work at all.

advertised island

I would like to talk about how life works in Bali, for those who do not know. This is a relatively small island, the only place in the country where Hinduism still remains - on the rest of the islands there is Islam and very few Catholics. Largely due to the local religion, there is a kind of freedom that is not found in other parts of Indonesia.

Just a few decades ago there was nothing in Bali. All its virtues were first noticed by the Australians: these beautiful waves for surfing, beautiful beaches, low prices. Now tourists from all over the world come here, this is an overloaded, advertised island. If you look at neighboring Lombok or the island of Flores, this is the same Bali many years ago, and there are very few tourists there.

Felt like a king

Most offers for renting houses simply do not exist on the Internet. Therefore, the search is as follows: you choose the area in which you want to live, get on a bike and drive around, looking for signs with the inscription for rent. This is absolutely normal practice.

The areas on the island are very different. My first home was in Kuta - this is such a tourist hell, where there are a lot of restaurants, hotels and nightclubs. Noisy and a lot of people, the beaches, frankly, are not impressive precisely because of the abundance of infrastructure and crowds of Chinese. I lived in the guesthouse for a couple of weeks while I was looking for a suitable villa.

I will briefly tell you what areas there are in Bali. Tourist Mecca are Kuta, Seminyak, Legian. There are areas with luxury hotels and impeccable beaches- Nusa Dua, Uluwatu. And there is something in between - this is Jimbaran, Sanur, Changu. In addition, remote places in the north and east of the island, not everyone gets there - Lovina, Amed. And Ubud is in the center of the island, where people go to do yoga, immerse themselves in cultural life and enjoy peace and tranquility.

As a result, I settled in Canggu - quiet, calm, good nature and the ocean nearby. At the same time, there are amazing cafes and restaurants, good supermarkets - everything that people from the West love.

I rented a villa at ridiculous prices for Moscow - about 20 thousand rubles a month. For this money - a bedroom, a huge living room, a bathroom, open kitchen outside, veranda and private pool. I also had a servant who cleaned everything, washed, washed my things and sometimes cooked dinners.

Photo: Yuan Adriles / ZUMA / Globallookpres.com

What can I say, I felt like a king! I had to pay immediately for the year, but at a discount - I got a month for free. Now, taking into account the exchange rate, such a villa costs twice as much.

A year later, I moved and lived in Ubud for six months, then returned to the coast again and managed to change three villas in different areas. Now I'm back in Canggu, I really like it here. There is a swimming pool, and a store nearby, and a place for guests - sometimes relatives and friends fly to me. True, in the last two years less often, because it has become much more expensive. When all this trouble happened with the exchange rate, it also affected me, because some of my customers are from Russia, and they pay me in rubles.

Secret beaches and Russian dachas

At first, I rode around the island with my friend and a couple of Russians, enjoying life. About a month later, I realized that it was time to return to work. There were no problems with this at all: during the day, until the heat subsided, I sat in my villa and worked, and in the mornings and evenings I swam in the ocean, walked.

In general, if officially, without a work visa, I do not have the right to work in Bali. But when it comes to remote work, everyone here does it, because no one knows what you do there in your villa.

My weekends are still floating - when there are no orders, I take one of my friends or meet some tourists, and we go for a drive around the island. Until now, I have not been to many places, but there are those where I want to return. There are many waterfalls, lakes, volcanoes and just hiking trails. From favorite places secret beaches Uluwatu, I can spend the whole day there. Tourists almost do not go there, because few people know about them. You lie on the sand, listen to the sound of the ocean, and rocks rise above you - a magical place!

Once or twice a month I go to Ubud, where I have many acquaintances. Sometimes I go to all sorts of yoga practices, unload the brain. I treat yoga as a way to pass the time: I like to meditate, bend, but I understand that for most people this is something more.

There is a place in Ubud called Bali Dacha. Yes, a dacha in our Russian sense. Founded by Russians. You can rent a room from them, relax in the garden, take a steam bath in a real bath. Sometimes they have parties where you can meet the most different people from all over the world. Amazing place I sometimes look there.

Many Russians here like to wait out the winter or spend a period before changing jobs. warm ocean and a pleasant climate really help to find oneself, to think, to relax both in body and soul.

"They were reading 'Eat, Pray, Love'"

There is an opinion that in Bali you either fall in love at first sight or you hate it. I know both people who are crazy about the island, and those who did not like it. It seems to me that it depends on the person - on what he is looking for when he comes here. Someone wants white sandy beaches, tranquility, excellent service and impeccable beauty around - well, you don’t need to go here for this. And someone, like me, wants adventure, suspense, new acquaintances and impressions - then Bali will reciprocate.

Photo: Veri Sanovri / Xinhua / Globallookpres.com

There is a certain class of tourists. These are girls and boys who have read books and seen movies like Eat, Pray, Love. They think that Bali is heaven on earth, where they will definitely find their love. Firstly, sometimes they are disappointed because this is not the Maldives. Secondly, I feel sorry for them, because they only go to places worn by tourists and do not see the real beauty of the island.

Roads on the island of the gods - a living hell

Roads in Bali are a separate issue. I'll start with the simplest and inexpensive way moving around the island is a scooter. If you don’t know how to drive it, it’s better not to come here at all, because you won’t see the islands. Or you have to go bust on a taxi.

White people on bikes feed the police here, so you need to follow all the rules. Ride only with a helmet. It is desirable to have international law to control the bike, at least fake ones, otherwise you will have to pay off every time. I mostly ride a bike to shops, cafes and to the ocean, and when I want to travel or go to another part of the island, I rent a car - it's safer and calmer.

Once I was on a bike in a small accident. A car cut me off and I fell off the side of the road. Nothing serious, but scratched badly. I had to apply to the insurance company, they paid for the treatment: they made dressings, gave some ointments. The bill was astronomical, and it's good that I had insurance.

The roads themselves are a living hell. With the exception of a few highways, everything else is one or two narrow lanes, you can only pass by a miracle. Such narrow roads are here because of expensive land: it is believed that on the space saved from the roadbed, you can build a house, hotel, cafe, which will generate income.

Tricky locals

When someone comes to visit me or I just get acquainted with those who have just come to live in Bali, I hear this: “The locals are so friendly, they all smile and bow, they are good.” Every time I say the same thing: "Wait, this is for the time being."

When it comes to money, the locals are not at all kind, they defend their interests almost to the point of a fight. This applies to taxi drivers, traders in the markets and everyone who works in the entertainment industry.

Here's what I want to say - everything is really cheap in Bali, but it used to be even cheaper. It seems to me that this island was spoiled by the Australians and Europeans, who were always throwing money and huge tips, and the locals began to raise prices several times.

Longing for the cold

You can get a social visa and legally stay here for six months, but I don't want to bother. I just go to some country every two months: before it was only Malaysia and Singapore, now I fly to Cambodia, Thailand, China, the Philippines. Firstly, I need to renew my visa, and secondly, I want some kind of adventure.

I like Bali. I no longer perceive it as some kind of resort, I consider the island my home. My friends are here, I'm used to working here, I have favorite places where I go. I eat fresh every day tropical fruits, swimming in the pool or in the ocean - isn't that happiness?

The island is really beautiful - climate, nature. Many who have moved here say that they have recovered from chronic diseases - perhaps just because of the climate. I believe that a person should live where he feels good, where he is comfortable in all respects. So far, I like it here, and I'm not going to move anywhere. Next trip to Russia will be on New Year, I have already bought tickets - I will see all my relatives, friends. And yes, I missed the cold.

Our correspondent Natalya Davydova visited a tropical island and found out what our compatriots do and how they live abroad

What is "visaran"

An average of 2,000 to 5,000 Russians live in Bali. The figure is approximate, because people are leaving and coming all the time. There are two reasons for this: a change in life plans and the traditional for Russian thinking "knight's move" to circumvent the law.

The fact is that visa regime entry into the country for Russians next. Initially, you will automatically receive at the airport when crossing the border tourist visa for 30 days (it is enough to pay 25 dollars). After this period, you can choose it:

Larisa

In Bali, I met a woman from Russia. Larisa is 50 years old. Originally from Volgograd, in Lately lived in Lipetsk. Worked like everyone else. Like everything was enough.

At first, her children left Russia for Asia, lived in Thailand, in other countries and decided to stay in Bali. She came to them and stayed. Before that, I didn’t travel anywhere much - I was only in India on a tour package.

The biggest impression of Bali is the people, - Larisa admits. - Responsive, joyful and light - I have never met such people in Russia.

Their open hearts amazed Larisa, accustomed to the Western mentality. Therefore, having been here on a tour once, she fell in love with this island forever.

What was the most difficult in the beginning? I asked her.

Never mind! she says. - First of all, my children were already here. Although we live independently of each other, we are still our own, relatives. Secondly, I came here at the call of my heart and therefore fit into the local atmosphere right away.

Representatives of the Russian diaspora in Bali quite actively communicate with each other through social network Facebook. This is help in various matters, and discussion of news, and just chatter.

How much does housing cost

Larisa lives in Batubulan, not far from Denpasar. Renting a 2-room house. The cost of housing is about $100 per month.

The price is so small, as this is not a villa with a pool on the beach, but a small house in the area where he lives local population. Very cozy, two rooms, a kitchen and a bathroom - she doesn't need more. For comparison, I’ll say that a villa with a pool costs $250-500 a month here (for $500 it will be a two-story, well, just a very chic mansion!).

To the sea from the place where Larisa lives, 10 minutes by bike. I had to learn how to ride, because it's hard to live here without a motorbike. There is practically no urban public transport: everyone rides bikes or cars. Why the heroine of the film "Eat, Pray, Love" was put on a bicycle is not clear, I have not seen a single cyclist here.

These are the goodies Larisa prepares for those who love Russian cuisine.

Photo by Natalia Danilenko

Homemade goodies as a source of income

Of course, the question arose: what to do, how to earn money here.

When I decided to leave, I just quit my job, - Larisa shares, - so passive income No, retirement is still far away. I tried different options and settled on what I liked. I have always loved to cook different “homemade goodies”.

Now Larisa's culinary passion has turned into a good source of income. Dumplings, dumplings, bread, yeast pies with various fillings, herring under a fur coat, cottage cheese, halva, marshmallows, pickles and tomatoes - all this is not here, but the Russian soul wants it! So Larisa has found her niche here: she makes Russian dishes to order. She makes everything tasty and from the heart, and there is always a demand for her services. The Facebook group and other types of online advertising provide sales.

How else can you earn?

You can earn money here in different ways. Someone uses their talents and skills, like Larisa. Ours work as photographers, teach foreign language, surfing. By the way, Bali is an ideal place for surfing.

If you get a job, then the Russians choose a tourist service - they become guides. There are enough Russian tourists here, and there is no strong seasonal decline. Therefore, many work with a local travel agency. Tourists need to be provided with a full range of services, and Russians do not understand English very well.

For more advanced tourists who do not buy a tour package, but travel on their own, such a service as renting villas is in demand. Therefore, some of our compatriots are engaged in real estate: they rent housing for a vacation. At first, someone else's, like agents, and then, perhaps, our own. I met Muscovites here: they bought land and are building a small hotel on it ...

The third option is remote work online. For example, make videos against the backdrop of palm trees. It is now fashionable and in demand. So everyone finds something for themselves. Actually, just like in Russia! The main thing - would be the desire and patience not to give up. After all, Russians differ from the locals in their entrepreneurial spirit, which allows them to live and earn money anywhere.

18.02.2019 Alexey Glazunov

More than a hundred articles have been written about Bali on our blog - for us it is one of the most beloved places on Earth, and this is partly why most of these articles reveal the island from a positive side.

Meanwhile, we periodically receive comments and messages in a personal message that Bali is far from being as perfect as we make it out to be.

It so happened that we concentrate more on positive things (often even unconsciously), so many of the minuses fall out of sight. It's much easier to live this way, but for bloggers it's not very good quality, so from time to time we still try to be more objective and look closely, including at the minuses too (of which there are also plenty here).

Bali is an island with character, it is quite contrasting, there are many different speculations and stereotypes about it, and unlike the almost perfect Thailand, which almost everyone loves, after Bali, some tourists spit and swear that they will never come here again. The other part, despite not all the disadvantages, considers it ideal and falls in love with the island irrevocably!

With this article, we decided to put everything in its place and talk about the pros and cons of Bali.

Cons of Bali

Traffic and driving style. For us, this is perhaps the most significant disadvantage - on the roads, especially in the southern part of the island, chaos is happening here.

Cocktail from incredible amount motorbikes, narrow roads and reckless driving style result in traffic jams and make getting from point A to point B a real torture. ⠀

At the same time, sometimes it is worth turning aside to a secondary street and immediately the traffic disappears instantly.

Mediocre beaches. We have said it many times and will say it again, Bali is not for a beach holiday. There are no “bounty” beaches here, and most of them are either shallow or big waves, or there is no infrastructure, or very crowded. There are exceptions, but there are few of them, and it is not a fact that it will turn out to settle right next to them. ⠀

High humidity. The humidity level here rarely drops below 80%, so the heat on the island is rather difficult to bear. In addition to this - long-drying things, mold on your favorite clothes and lenses. ⠀

Dangerous sun. Being in the sun during the daytime here is tantamount to suicide. The skin, especially unaccustomed to the sun, burns instantly and can burn several times during the holidays. ⠀

Rain season. Unlike most resorts around the world, winter is not the season here. Hot, humid and lots of rain. Moreover, the rains are quite long, so if you are going to Bali to celebrate the New Year, be prepared for the fact that you may have to ride a bike ankle-deep in the water.

And yet, the rainy season is very dirty beaches and a lot of garbage on the ocean. ⠀

Expensive seafood. Surprisingly, despite the fact that Bali is surrounded on all sides by water, seafood here is quite expensive. ⠀

At the same time, it is worth moving away from the coast and they disappear, almost completely.

Lack of public transport. If you are used to using buses, trains, tuk-tuks, jeepneys, songthaews and others vehicles public, then here you will be disappointed, there is nothing like this and without your own transport (or using a taxi) it will be very difficult here. ⠀

Taxi mafia. At the same time, taxis here are quite expensive by Asian standards, and besides, local taxi drivers are actively at war with cheap Uber and Hornbeam, up to the use of physical force, which significantly reduces their number and makes life difficult for visitors.

Growing crime scene. Recently, cases of attacks on tourists have become more frequent - they tear off handbags and chains, snatch out phones, push them off bikes, climb into houses and villas. It is worth noting that this mainly happens at night and in the south of Bali. ⠀

Tasteless local food. Dishes that are prepared in warungs (local cafes) are often heavily fried, fatty and spicy. IN tourist places it’s easier with this, but it’s worth moving a little to the side, and only two dishes will be waiting for you on the menu - mi goreng and nasi goreng (fried noodles and fried rice).

There are literally a couple of dishes that we like, but in general, the cuisine here is not very expressive and few people like it, except for the Balinese themselves. ⠀

High prices in restaurants. If we focus on the average level, then the cost of cafes and restaurants here will be higher than in the same Thailand.

If you are used to good restaurants, then you will hardly notice the difference,

and if you want to eat cheap, then - see the previous paragraph. ⠀

Fraud with bank cards. very much in Bali common cases skimming, when some time after you have withdrawn money from an ATM, additional debits occur from the card. It is necessary to choose an ATM very carefully so as not to become a victim of scammers. ⠀

Calculation. In small shops here, they may incorrectly give change or break through excess goods. In the exchanger, you can easily see professional money tricks that look spectacular, but are not cheap.

We have heard about this many times, but have never encountered it, maybe because we most often buy in large supermarkets, do not change currency and rarely go to the criminal south of the island. ⠀

High level of corruption. The police often deliberately arrange raids in order to shake off the treasured dollars from tourists.

However, if everything is in order with your documents, you do not violate anything, then most likely there will be no problems.

Slow Internet connection. In general, the situation is noticeably improving, fiber optics are being laid in many places and the speed becomes stable (we have 10 Mbps at home), but often it is still quite unhurried on the island.

Dirt and trash. Despite the fact that the Balinese themselves are very clean, neat and tidy,

roads and beaches, especially during the rainy season, can be quite dirty.

Whether it's the visiting Indonesians from other islands, or their culture, which, accustomed to organic waste, did not have time to adapt to a huge amount of plastic and other inorganic waste.

Active and diverse fauna. This is not exactly a minus, but rather a fairly common moment for Asia.

There is a huge number of all those who fly, crawl and jump - insects, frogs, lizards, geckos, snakes, scorpions, etc. the vast majority are not dangerous, but out of habit they can, at least, be annoying. There are also quite a lot of stray dogs here, which, again, are usually not aggressive, but like to bark and jump out into the road in front of the bike.

Cataclysms. Bali is located in an earthquake-prone region, so it shakes periodically. Earthquakes are usually not strong and do not happen very often, but anything can happen. There are also several volcanoes here, in particular the active Batur. It does not pose a serious danger, but for example, in the early 2000s, a small ash ejection occurred, which reached 300 meters in height.

The absence of sidewalks. In some places they are found, but in general, it is better not to count on them. Even where they are, they can be filled with bikes, be half-broken, etc. As a result, it is quite difficult to defile here in a long dress with heels, as well as walking with a stroller if you are traveling with a small child. The locals here, in general, rarely travel on foot - whenever possible, they get on a bike, even if they need to travel 100 meters.

A large number of tourists. Especially Chinese, and every year there are more and more of them. In popular attractions (for example, in the temples of Tanah Lot or Uluwatu), there is simply no crowding during the day. A life hack for the non-lazy - come early in the morning, to the opening, then there is a chance to walk almost alone.

Taxes in restaurants. Most cafes and restaurants here do not include taxes and service fees in the price, as a rule, it is 15-21%. Judging by the fact that in some establishments the amount is already included, there is no single rule or law on this matter, so this can be considered a ploy by the owners in order to make the price visually lower. Tax information is usually listed at the bottom of the menu, but it also happens (infrequently) that this is reported after the fact.

Paid parking. Quite often, near beaches or attractions, locals charge money for parking. Most often they give out a ticket, but it happens that they just collect it. The cost is small, usually 0.15-0.4$ per bike and about 1$ per car, but many people don't like it much, so let's write it down =)

There is no direct flight. Well, one more minus is that Bali is quite long and difficult to get to. There are no direct flights, from Moscow, as a rule, they fly with two connections, and if you do not live in the capital, then add one more. Sometimes you can pick up a flight with one transfer, but it will be significantly more expensive.

Pros of Bali

Large selection of vegetables and tropical fruits especially in August/September and also in winter.

Dragonfruit, grapes, mangosteen, vani, marquises, durians, vani, rambutans, longans - all this can be found in Bali in certain seasons,

and pineapples, papayas, bananas, watermelons, herring, tangerines, strawberries, young coconuts grow here all year round.

Amazing nature. There is an ocean and volcanoes,

rocks and mountain lakes, jungles, rice terraces and waterfalls -

such diversity on one island is quite difficult to find anywhere else.

The nature here is not only diverse, but also very photogenic,

a real paradise for photographers

and lovers of beautiful views.

Picturesque ocean. Although beach holiday we put it in the cons section, the ocean itself is very impressive, especially when you look at it from the side.

Lots of tourist activities. There is diving, snokeling, rafting,

safari park, elephant park, water park, bird park, cultural park, etc.

Surfing. It should be highlighted in a separate paragraph, because here it is really cool. There are waves all the time, all year round, there are a lot of spots, both for beginners and professionals - it’s not for nothing that a huge number of Australians who know a lot about surfing come here for surfing. And besides, all this is very cheap here.

And there are also many surf schools with Russian and Russian-speaking instructors, so the language barrier will not become an obstacle between you and the ocean.

A huge number of attractions. In Bali, there is no question of what to do with your time,

rather, on the contrary - "how to cram all this into your short vacation."

Compactness. All the joys of life from the previous two points are located on a relatively small area, the distance from the southernmost to the very northern point~120 km.

Unique culture and religion. Daily religious ceremonies and offerings in themselves already delight many, and there are also many bright holidays (Nyepi, Galungan, Kuningan), impressive cremations,

and a thousand other ceremonies,

when the locals in their outfits carry offerings to the gods and demons -

it all looks amazing.

Friendly local people. The Balinese are very friendly, helpful and, in our opinion, smile much more than the same Thais from the “land of smiles”. Of course, in the tourist epicenters, you will most likely be considered as a source of income, but a little aside, they are really cool and sincere.

Great architecture. Carved windows, doors, facades near houses, beautiful temples V picturesque places, stylish cafes and restaurants -

Balinese hands grow from where they need to, they are quite hardworking and this immediately catches your eye, literally as soon as you go down from the plane.

Wide choice of accommodation. Here you can easily rent a simple room in a guesthouse for $15, or rent a luxurious villa for several hundred dollars a day.

There are no problems with both daily and long-term rentals.

Civilized contingent of Russian tourists. Due to the significant remoteness and a small amount of "all inclusive", the audience here, for the most part, is quite decent. Anything can happen, of course. =)

Good selection of cafes and restaurants. Despite the fact that we wrote down the local food as a minus, it is difficult to die of hunger in Bali - here you can find almost any cuisine,

various areas and specializations,

including organic, vegetarian, etc.

Many restaurants are very stylish

atmospheric,

or just with a great view.

Good selection of yoga schools. Many people go to Bali (and especially to Ubud) in order to join yoga and everything is really good here - there are many schools, studios and private teachers,

both with classical directions, and with more refined ones - for example, roll and release, yoga on a rope x, acro yoga, etc.