Lake Baikal characteristic. Temperature regime of water

Lake Baikal and its drainage basin belong to the unique geosystems of the world. Baikal is located in the central part Eastern Siberia, not far from the conditional geographical center of Asia. The mountain basin of the lake is the most important natural frontier of Siberia. In this area, the boundaries of various floristic and faunal areas converge, creating biogeocenoses that have no analogues.

Baikal is one of the greatest lakes of the planet, a lake of "superlative degree": the deepest (1637 m) and the oldest (about 25 million years), containing the largest number of endemics (more than 1000 species) and representatives of flora and fauna (more than 2600 species) living in fresh water Earth. The lake has a unique in terms of volume (23.6 thousand cubic km) and quality of fresh water (20% of the world). The Baikal depression is the central link of the Baikal rift zone, which arose and developed simultaneously with the world rift system. A number of factors suggest that the lake is a nascent ocean. The climate of the Baikal coasts is unusually mild for Siberia - the number of sunny days here is higher than in many Black Sea resorts. 336 rivers flow into Baikal (Selenga, Barguzin, Upper Angara, etc.), and one flows out - Angara.

The entire lake basin (the total catchment area is 557 thousand sq. km, of which 332 are in Russia) is a peculiar and very fragile natural geosystem, the basis of which is the system of the lake itself with its natural process of formation of the purest waters of drinking quality.

Baikal - the largest lake in the world

Baikal is one of the largest lakes in the world, the largest freshwater lake in Russia. Its length is 636 kilometers, the water surface area is 31,500 square kilometers. Baikal is 1.7 times larger than Lake Ladoga, the largest in Europe. Among the fresh lakes of the world, it ranks sixth. Larger than it are two African lakes - Victoria and Tanganyika, and three of the five Great American Lakes - Superior, Huron and Michigan.

Baikal is not only one of largest lakes, but also the deepest lake in the world. As already mentioned, its greatest depth is 1637 meters.

The maximum depth of Tanganyika is 1435 meters, Issyk-Kul is 702. On Earth, only 8 lakes have a depth exceeding 500 meters (L. Rossolimo).

Tanganyika is a fresh water body, but its water contains a high content of magnesium salts. The entire thickness of fresh water deeper than 800 meters can only be studied in Baikal.

The average depth of the lake is also very high - 730 meters. It exceeds the maximum depths of many very deep lakes. This is what determines the water reserves in Baikal.

Baikal is the world's largest freshwater lake in terms of water resources. Its volume is 23,600 cubic meters. kilometers, which is about 20% of the planet's fresh lake waters - much more than in all fresh lakes in the world. The volume of the latter is estimated at 123 thousand cubic kilometers of water. There is more water in Baikal than in all five of the American Great Lakes combined. The Baikal volume of water is almost twice as much as in Lake Tanganyika, 90 times more than in the Sea of ​​Azov, 23 times more than in Lake Ladoga. Based on the current need of people for water, equal to 500 liters per person per day, Baikal water can provide the entire population of the Earth for about 40 years (G.N. Galaziy, 1984).

Geological features of the structure of Lake Baikal

The most remarkable feature of Baikal is its antiquity. Given the deep relict endemism of the fauna of the lake, most researchers determine its age at 20-30 million years. The vast majority of lakes, especially those of glacial and oxbow origin, live for 10-15 thousand years, then they are filled with sediments, dragged by rafts and sooner or later turn into swamps, and then dry up. Recent studies have allowed geophysicists to hypothesize that Baikal, on the contrary, is a nascent ocean. This is confirmed by the fact that its shores diverge at a speed of up to 2 cm per year, just as the continents of Africa and South America, the shores of the Mediterranean and Red Seas, etc. Along with active movements of the earth's crust, significant magnetic anomalies along its axis were noted in the Baikal region. These anomalies are comparable in scale with similar anomalies in the area of ​​the mid-Atlantic fault. The lake has many features inherent in the ocean - abyssal depths, a huge mass of water, internal waves and seiches, tides, strong storms, high waves, expansion of the basin due to the spreading of the banks, large values ​​of magnetic anomalies, etc.

The lake lies in the Baikal depression - a bottomless stone bowl, surrounded on all sides by mountains. The depression is framed by medium-altitude mountain ranges Primorsky and Baikal - from the western side, Barguzinsky (with a maximum height of 2840 m) and Khamar-Daban - from the east and southeast. The depth of the depression is determined by the height of the mountains above it, the depth of the lake and the thickness of the loose sediments lining its bottom. The layer of these lake sediments in some places reaches 6,000 meters, and their volume is twice the volume of the lake and reaches 46,000 cubic kilometers. It is easy to calculate that the depth of Baikal's crystalline bed reaches 8-9 kilometers.

The deepest point of the Baikal root basin lies about 7,000 meters below the ocean level. The Baikal depression is the deepest basin on earth's land. Its "roots" cut through the entire earth's crust and go into the upper mantle to a depth of 50-60 kilometers.

Hydrology of Lake Baikal

Every year about 60 cubic kilometers of beautiful and unique water quality is produced in Baikal, which in some cases can be used instead of distilled water. The rare purity of water is ensured by the vital activity of its unique flora and fauna. The main properties of Baikal water are characterized as follows: there are very few dissolved and suspended mineral substances in it, negligible organic impurities, and a lot of oxygen. The total mineralization of water in Baikal is 120 milligrams per liter, while in many other lakes it reaches 400 or more milligrams per liter. The total content of ions in the water of the lake is 96.7 milligrams per liter.

Its transparency depends on the purity of water. Baikal is not only extremely clean, but also the most transparent lake in the world. In the spring, after being freed from ice, the transparency of its water reaches 40 meters - ten times more than in many other lakes. The standard of the highest transparency is the water of the Sargasso Sea, approaching the transparency of distilled water. Here, the Secchi disk disappears from view at a record depth of 65 meters. Recent studies have shown that at depths of 250 - 1200 meters the transparency of Baikal water is no less than in the Sargasso Sea.

Climate characteristics

In terms of the number of hours of sunshine, Baikal is richer than the neighboring territories of Siberia and even some western and southern regions of the country - in the north of the Baikal depression (Nizhniangarsk) 1948 hours per year, in the south of the lake (Babushkin) and in the middle part (Khuzhir) 2100 and 2277, and on the Riga coast, located at the same latitude - an average of 1839 hours a year, in Abastumani in the Caucasus - 1994. The average annual air temperature in the depressions of the lake is distributed as follows: in the southern basin -0.7 C, in the middle -1.6 C , in the north -3.6 C.

The water temperature in the surface layer varies from +14, +15 C (in August) to 0 C (in December-January). In coastal areas, during surges, the temperature can reach +16, +17 C, mainly under the eastern coast. In shallow bays and sors, it rises to +22, +23 C in summer. On average, the freezing of Lake Baikal begins on December 21 and ends on January 16 - it takes about a month to completely freeze. It also takes about a month or more from the beginning of the destruction of the ice cover in the southern basin, which occurs in April, to the complete cleansing of the entire reservoir in May-June. Most precipitation falls on the Khamar-Daban coast - about 800 mm / year or more, as well as in the mountains - from 1200 to 1400 mm; least of all - on the islands of Olkhon and Ushkany, on the Malomorsky coast of the lake and on the middle section of the western and eastern coasts. On average, it receives from 160 to 300 mm of precipitation per year.

Flora and fauna

The exclusivity of many physical and geographical features of the lake was the reason for the extraordinary diversity of its flora and fauna. And in this respect, it has no equal among the fresh waters of the world. Almost half of all species of freshwater mollusks live in Baikal, as well as more than half of all species of oligochaetes, shell crustaceans, etc. /3 are endemic, originated in it and are not found anywhere else in the world. Of the algae, the most numerous are diatoms - 509 species, tetrasporic and chlorococcal - 99, blue-green - 90, conjugates - 48, ulotrix - 45, golden - 28, volvox - 13 species, etc. Of the animals, the most common amphipods (gammarids) - 255 species; more than 100 species of shell crustaceans, or ostracods, more than 100 species of gastropods, 83 oligochaetes, more than 100 planarians, about 50 planarians, 56 harpacticides, more than 300 protozoa. 52 species of fish belonging to 12 families live in the lake: sturgeons, Acipenseridae, (1 species - Baikal sturgeon); salmon, Salmonidae, (5 species - davatchan, taimen, lenok, Baikal omul, Coregonus autumnalis migratorius Georgy, whitefish); graylings, Thimallidae, (1 species - Siberian grayling); pike, Esocidae, (1 species); cyprinids, Ciprinidae, (13 species); loaches, Cobitidae, (2 species); catfish, Sibiridae, (1 species); cod, Gadidae, (1 species); perch, Percidae, (1 species); sculpins, Cottidae, (7 species); Abissocottidae, (20 species); golomyankas, Comephoridae, (2 species). 29 species - very diverse in body shape, color and lifestyle of sculpins, or sculpins. Two species - viviparous fish, large and small golomyanka - are known to ichthyologists around the world.

The food pyramid of the lake ecosystem is crowned by a typical marine mammal - the seal, or the Baikal seal, Pusa sibirica Gmel.

There are 848 species of endemic animals in Baikal - about 60% and 133 species of endemic plants - 15%. Completely endemic in Baikal are 11 families and subfamilies, 96 genera, uniting about 1000 species. All this makes it possible to single out the lake in the Baikal subregion of the Holarctic, which is equivalent in area to the vast European-Siberian subregion.

Angara river

Angara - "daughter of Baikal", the only river flowing out of the lake, its length is about 1860 km. Annually, the Angara carries out 60.9 cubic km of water from Baikal, and all its tributaries bring 58.75 cubic km per year. at the confluence of the Angara has a water discharge of only about 100 cubic km. The source of the river is located at the level of Baikal, i.e. at an altitude of 456 m above sea level, and the mouth - at an altitude of 76 m. The difference is 380 m, which is used by the cascade of hydroelectric power stations built on the Angara. The width of the Angara at the source is about 1 km, the depth varies in the range of 0.5 - 6 m, the speed of the current along the fairway is 1-2 m / s.

Baikal omul

The Baikal omul (Coregonus autumnalis migratorius Georgy) is an endemic fish that came to Baikal relatively recently (during the glacial or post-glacial period), presumably from the estuarine sections of rivers flowing into the Arctic Ocean. The omul adapted well to its new ecological niche, underwent significant changes and acquired the biological characteristics of the subspecies. Four populations of omul live in Baikal: Selenga, Chivirkuy, North Baikal and embassy. The most numerous population is Selenga. It spawns mainly in the Selenga and in a number of tributaries of the lake. It lives in the southern basin of Baikal and in the southern part of the middle basin. The omul goes to spawn in the rivers from the end of August - the beginning of September to the end of November. In terms of numbers, the spawning herd reaches from one and a half - two to six - eight million individuals.

The total biomass of all age groups of omul in Baikal is about 25 - 30 thousand tons. The life expectancy of omul is up to 20-25 years, it spawns up to 6 times during its life at the age of 5-6 to 14-15 years. The average size and weight of each population is different. Size 30 - 35 cm, weight from 300 to 600 gr. The largest of the encountered specimens of the Selenga population had a weight of up to 5 kg and a length of about 50 cm.

Baikal seal

The Baikal seal (Pusa sibirica Gmel.) is the only mammal in the lake. According to the classification, the seal belongs to the family of true seals (Phocidae), the genus Pusa. Researchers believe that the Baikal seal came from a common ancestor with the ringed northern seal. It is believed that the seal penetrated from the Arctic Ocean along the Yenisei and Angara during the Ice Age, when the rivers were dammed by ice advancing from the north. In the mid-80s, there were about 70 thousand heads of seals in Baikal. The age limit of the Baikal seal (according to V.D. Pastukhov) is 56 years for females and 52 years for males. Childbearing age lasts from 4-7 to 40 years, pregnancy lasts 11 months. During the life of the female can bring more than 20 cubs. The average weight of the seal in Baikal is about 50 kg, the maximum weight of males is 130-150 kg, the length is 1.7-1.8 m. The females are smaller in size - 1.3-1.6 m and up to 110 kg. (+ video clip - Baikal seal on the ice of the lake, 5-10 sec) (According to O.K. Gusev and G.N. Galaziya)

The nature of anthropogenic impact in the basin of the lake. Baikal.

Based on the materials of the TERKSOP of Lake Baikal and the "National Report of the USSR to the 1992 UN Conference on environment and development" in the basin of Lake Baikal, 4 main areas of detrimental anthropogenic impact on the ecosystems of the region are distinguished.

1. The basin of the Selenga River in its lower reaches with 3 large industrial centers: the Gusinoozerskaya State District Power Plant, the Selenginsky Central Control Commission and the city of Ulan-Ude. Ulan-Ude is the largest polluter of the Selenga, accounting for 53% of all wastewater discharged into the largest river Baikal basin. Above the city, the total concentration of impurities in the waters of the Selenga is 0.76 conventional units, below it increases to 62 conventional units. In 1988, the city's emissions of harmful substances into the atmosphere amounted to 152.2 thousand tons, of which 58.2 thousand tons fell on the share of industrial enterprises, 94 thousand tons - vehicles.

In the same year, the Selenginsky PPM emitted 44.1 thousand tons of pollutants into the atmosphere. The plant dumped 11.9 thousand tons of mineral substances, 3.4 thousand tons of organic substances and 135 tons of suspended matter into the waters of the Selenga. Emissions into the atmosphere of Gusinoozerskaya GRES exceeded 63 thousand tons/year.

2. The southern end of the lake, where the main pollutant is the Baikal pulp and paper mill. In 1988, the plant's emissions into the atmosphere amounted to 30.4 thousand tons. harmful substances, into the water of Baikal - 51.9 thousand tons of mineral substances, 4.7 thousand tons of organic and 532 tons of suspended substances. The maximum allowable concentrations (MPC) of oil products, phenols were exceeded by 3-4 times, and the MPC of sulfates and chlorides was exceeded. As a result of the plant's activity, an extensive pollution zone was formed. The area of ​​pollution of bottom sediments is 20 sq. km. Over the past 10 years, the number of benthic species of living organisms has decreased here from 27 to 10, and the biomass of zoobenthos has decreased by 3 times.

3. Valley of the Barguzin River in the middle and lower reaches. Here, the cut down areas of the allowable cutting area are significantly exceeded, 67% of arable land is covered by erosion processes. The unregulated use of mineral fertilizers in this agricultural area may contribute to the eutrophication of the lake.

4. Severobaikalsky area - a section of the coast between the cities of Severobaikalsk and Nizhneangarsk. The commissioning of the Baikal-Amur Railway has significantly increased the anthropogenic load here. Atmospheric emissions of harmful substances in the city of Severobaikalsk in 1988 amounted to 15 thousand tons. The content of oil products in water near Severobaikalsk is 3-5 MPC, if the index is 238 tons. An additional source of pollution of Lake Baikal is the bank protection works carried out in this area.

The current influence of local anthropogenic foci in the lake basin is of a local nature, but if we consider the characteristics of the atmosphere, it covers large parts of the lake, mainly its southern basin. This influence, apart from local sources is due to the transfer of air masses from the Irkutsk territorial complex, especially the Novo-Irkutsk CHPP.

Baikal is the oldest lake in the world. Its age is about 30 million years. During this period, the formation of Lake Baikal was accompanied by earthquakes, uplifts and subsidence of huge areas of the earth's surface.

Baikal- the deepest of all the lakes of our planet. Its maximum depth is 1637 m. In the literature, you can find various values ​​\u200b\u200bof its maximum depth, for example, 1642 m or even 1647 m. In 1991, the deepest point of the lake was found on the Pisis deep-sea manned apparatus - 1637 meters. It is located south of Cape Izhimey of Olkhon Island.

In 2008 and 2009, researchers on the Mir submersibles re-examined the most deep places Lake Baikal and came to the conclusion that the maximum depth of the lake, nevertheless, remains the same - 1637 m.

In terms of water volume, Baikal ranks first among freshwater lakes peace. It contains 23,000 km3 of water. This is about 20% of the surface fresh waters of the Earth, or about 80% of the surface fresh waters of Russia, excluding glaciers. The reserves of surface fresh waters in Russia make up about 30% of the reserves of the surface fresh waters of the Earth. Surface fresh water includes the waters of fresh lakes, reservoirs, rivers and swamps. This list does not include underground fresh water, as well as glaciers, both underground and surface.

in the waters Baikal There are more than 2,500 species and subspecies of animals and more than 1,000 species and varieties of plants.

More than 50% of animal species live only in Lake Baikal and are not found anywhere else. Among them are the smallest epishura crustacean, gammarus benthic crustaceans, freshwater sponges, giant bottom worms, fish - omul, sturgeon, golomyanka, yellowfly, longfly, and of course, the Baikal seal - seal.

The Baikal coast is famous throughout the world for its unusually beautiful landscapes, magnificent bays and bays.

The listed characteristics of Baikal are so amazing and unusual that in 1996 the lake was included in the List of World Heritage Sites. natural heritage UNESCO. Inclusion in the list means that the governments of the countries that own these objects and each person individually must treat them with special care and protect them from pollution and destruction.

The size of Lake Baikal can be compared with the size of some European countries. The area of ​​Baikal is comparable to the area of ​​the European state of Belgium.

Are there lakes on Earth similar to Lake Baikal? Yes, I have. Lake Tanganyika in Africa. Tanganyika is also an ancient body of water, and its shape is very similar to Baikal - just as elongated. Square Tanganyika larger than Baikal. The lake is located in the tropical zone, the water in it is warm. And more bacteria and algae breed in warm water than in the cold waters of Lake Baikal. Therefore, the transparency of the water in the lake is low, and the water is less suitable for drinking.

Lake Upper in the USA and Canada. It is also often compared to Baikal. The area of ​​Lake Superior is larger than the area of ​​Lake Baikal, but it is much smaller and younger. Lake Superior is only 10 thousand years old.

More than others, a lake looks like Baikal Khubsugul. It is located in the Baikal rift zone, it is distinguished by the same purest and transparent water, a wide variety of flora and fauna. Khubsugul is several times smaller than Lake Baikal. The volume of Khubsugul's water is 383 km3, which is more than 60 times less than the volume of Baikal's water. Khubsugul and Baikal are connected by a system of rivers.

The Egin-Gol River flows out of Khubsugul, it carries its waters to the Selenga River, and the Selenga flows into Baikal. Therefore, Khubsugul is often called the younger brother of Baikal.

Comparative characteristics of some large lakes of the world

Baikal stretches from southwest to northeast for 636 km. Is it a lot or a little? Compare on the map of Russia: the length of the lake is equal to the distance between the two most famous cities of our Motherland - between Moscow and St. Petersburg.

The maximum width of Lake Baikal is 81 km, it is located opposite the Barguzin Bay, the minimum width is 27 km - at the confluence of the Selenga River.

The length of the coastline of the lake is 2000 km. It will take almost 4.5 months to go around Baikal. It will be a very difficult journey, as in some places impenetrable rocks come close to the shore, and they will have to be bypassed.

The main characteristics of Lake Baikal

cartographic basis. Map of Lake Baikal.

Atlas “Lake Baikal. Past. The present. Future". FSUE "VostSib AGP", 2005.

Baikal is filled with waters of more than 300 rivers, rivers and streams. In the literature, you can find data, for example, that 544 tributaries flow into Baikal, or 1123 tributaries. These results were obtained not by counting the tributaries themselves, but by the mountain gorges depicted on geographical maps. And along the ravines flow both permanent and temporary watercourses. In dry years, they can dry up, in years with heavy rains they can be filled with water again. Therefore, the number of tributaries is not constant.

Baikal- a lake of tectonic origin located in the southern part of Eastern Siberia, on the border of the Republic of Buryatia and the Irkutsk region

Baikal itself

Lake Baikal stretches from southwest to north for 636 kilometers. The width of the lake varies from 25 to 80 km. The water surface area is 31,722 km. sq. The length of the coastline is 2100 km. Baikal is the deepest lake in the world - its maximum depth is 1642 meters. The lake has huge reserves of fresh water - 23,615 km. cubic meters, which is 20% of all world reserves.

The area around

Lake Baikal is surrounded on all sides by hills and mountain ranges. At the same time, the western coast is steep and rocky, while the eastern coast is more gentle. 336 streams and rivers flow into the Lake. The largest tributaries: Upper Angara, Selenga, Turka, Barguzin, Sarma, Snezhnaya. Only one river flows out of the lake - the Angara. There are 27 islands on Baikal, the largest of the islands is Olkhon, which is 71 km long and 12 wide, the largest peninsula is Svyatoy Nos

Climate

The huge water mass of Lake Baikal has a strong influence on the climate of the coastal area. Summers are cooler here, while winters are milder. Spring comes later by 10-15 days compared to the surrounding areas, and sometimes longer. climate features are due Baikal winds, which even have their own names - sarma, barguzin, kultuk, verkhovik.

When to go to Baikal

Characteristics

Briefly the main characteristics of Baikal

• Length - 363 km.
• Width - 79.5 km.
• Area -31722 sq. km.
• Volume - 23615 cubic meters. km.
• The average depth is 744 meters.
• The maximum depth is 1637 meters.
• There are 27 islands on Baikal.
• 29 fish species are endemic

Depth

Lake Baikal is the deepest in the world - 1637 meters, the depth was established in 1983. Wherein average depth also very large - 744 meters. In 2002, these data were confirmed and a depth map was compiled.

• the area of ​​Baikal is equal to the area of ​​three countries - Denmark, Belgium, the Netherlands.
• Baikal is the deepest lake on earth
• The lake contains 19% of the world's fresh water

Numerous scientific studies have been devoted to the problem of the origin of the word "Baikal", which indicates a lack of clarity in this matter. There are about a dozen possible explanations for the origin of the name. Among them, the most probable is the version of the origin of the name of the lake from the Turkic-speaking Bai-Kul - a rich lake.

Of the other versions, two more can be noted: from the Mongolian Baigal - a rich fire and Baigal Dalai - a large lake. The peoples who lived on the shores of the lake called Baikal in their own way. Evenks, for example, - Lamu, Buryats - Baigal-Nuur, even the Chinese had a name for Baikal - Beihai - the North Sea.

The Evenk name Lamu - the Sea was used for several years by the first Russian explorers in the 17th century, then they switched to the Buryat Baigal, slightly softening the letter "g" by phonetic replacement. Quite often, Baikal is called the sea, simply out of respect, for its violent temper, for the fact that the far opposite shore is often hidden somewhere in the haze... At the same time, the Small Sea and the Big Sea are distinguished. The Small Sea is what is located between the northern coast of Olkhon and the mainland, everything else is the Big Sea.

Baikal water

Baikal water is unique and amazing, like Baikal itself. It is unusually transparent, pure and saturated with oxygen. In not so ancient times, it was considered healing, with its help, diseases were treated. In spring, the transparency of Baikal water, measured using the Secchi disk (a white disk with a diameter of 30 cm), is 40 m (for comparison, in the Sargasso Sea, which is considered the standard of transparency, this value is 65 m). Later, when a massive algae bloom begins, the transparency of the water decreases, but in calm weather, the bottom can be seen from a boat at a fairly decent depth. Such a high transparency is due to the fact that Baikal water, due to the activity of living organisms that live in it, is very weakly mineralized and close to distilled.

The volume of water in Baikal is about 23 thousand cubic kilometers, which is 20% of the world and 90% of Russian fresh water reserves. Every year, the Baikal ecosystem reproduces about 60 cubic kilometers of clear, oxygenated water.

Age of Lake Baikal

The age of the lake is usually given in the literature as 20-25 million years. In fact, the question of the age of Baikal should be considered open, since the use of various methods for determining the age gives values ​​from 20-30 million to several tens of thousands of years. Apparently, the first estimate is closer to the truth - Baikal is indeed a very ancient lake. If we assume that the age of Baikal is indeed several tens of millions of years, then this is the oldest lake on Earth.

It is believed that Baikal arose as a result of the action of tectonic forces. Tectonic processes are still going on, which is manifested in the increased seismicity of the Baikal region.

Climate in the area of ​​Lake Baikal.

The climate in Eastern Siberia is sharply continental, but the huge mass of water contained in Baikal and its mountainous surroundings create an unusual microclimate. Baikal works like a big thermal stabilizer - in winter it is warmer in Baikal, and in summer a little cooler than, for example, in Irkutsk, located at a distance of 70 km from the lake. The temperature difference is usually around 10 degrees. A significant contribution to this effect is made by forests growing on almost the entire coast of Lake Baikal.

The influence of Lake Baikal is not limited to the regulation of the temperature regime. Due to the fact that the evaporation of cold water from the surface of the lake is very small, clouds cannot form over Baikal. In addition, the air masses that bring clouds from the land heat up when passing the coastal mountains, and the clouds dissipate. As a result, the sky over Baikal is clear most of the time. This is also evidenced by the numbers: the number of hours of sunshine in the region of Olkhon Island is 2277 hours (for comparison - on the Riga seashore 1839, in Abastumani (Caucasus) - 1994). One should not think that the sun always shines over the lake - if you are not lucky, you can get one or even two weeks of disgusting rainy weather even in the sunniest place of Baikal - on Olkhon, but this is extremely rare.

The average annual water temperature on the surface of the lake is +4°C. Near the coast in summer the temperature reaches +16-17°C, in shallow bays up to +22-23°C.

Wind and waves on Baikal.

The wind on Baikal blows almost always. More than thirty local names of winds are known. This does not mean at all that there are so many different winds on Baikal, just that many of them have several names. The peculiarity of the Baikal winds is that almost all of them almost always blow along the coast and there are not as many shelters from them as we would like.

Prevailing winds: northwest, often called mountain winds, northeast (barguzin and verkhovik, also known as angara), southwest (kultuk), southeast (shelonnik). Maximum wind speed, registered on Baikal, 40 m/s. Large values ​​are also found in the literature - up to 60 m/s, but there is no reliable evidence for this.

Where there is wind, there, as you know, there are waves. I note right away that the opposite is not true - the wave can be even with complete calm. Waves on Lake Baikal can reach a height of 4 meters. Sometimes values ​​​​of 5 and even 6 meters are given, but this is most likely an estimate “by eye”, which has a large error, as a rule, in the direction of overestimation. The height of 4 meters was obtained using instrumental measurements in the open sea. The excitement is strongest in autumn and spring. In the summer on Lake Baikal, strong excitement is rare, and calm often occurs.

Ichthyofauna of Baikal.

Depending on the habitat conditions, fish can be divided into several groups. Sturgeon, pike, burbot, ide, roach, dace, perch, minnow occupy coastal shallow waters and river deltas in Baikal. Fish of Siberian mountain rivers: grayling, taimen, lenok inhabit small tributaries of the lake and its coastal zone. Omul, since ancient times considered a symbol of Baikal, inhabits its open and coastal part, whitefish, another well-known inhabitant of Baikal, inhabits only the coastal part.

The most remarkable group of Baikal fish are gobies, of which there are 25 species. Of these, golomyankas are of the greatest interest. This miracle of Baikal is not found anywhere else in the world. Golomyanka is unusually beautiful, shimmers in the light blue and pink, and if it is left in the sun it will melt, leaving only bones and a greasy stain. She is the main and most numerous inhabitant of Baikal, but rarely gets into the nets of fishermen. Her only enemy is the seal, for which she is the main food.

In order to preserve rare and endangered animals, the strictest and complete ban on hunting is being carried out, the maximum preservation of the habitat, the creation of special nurseries, national parks, reserves and wildlife sanctuaries.

Posted Sun, 12/10/2014 - 08:27 by Cap

What boy from the days of a vagabond childhood does not dream of visiting this Glorious Sea! From school geography lessons, we all knew that fate did not offend our Motherland, giving Lake Baikal!!!

And so, the old dream of the Nomads came true - after the walking and water part.) - We spent 4 days on the shores of the legendary Baikal, approximately between the villages of Slyudyanka and Listvyanka.

I will repeat myself a little and tell you about our journey along the shores of the blessed Baikal!

We spent the night in the camp of the Ministry of Emergency Situations on the shore of Lake Baikal in Slyudyanka.

From Slyudyanka, we went along the Circum-Baikal Railway - the Trans-Siberian Railway used to pass along the Circum-Baikal Railway, but then the branch from Irkutsk was straightened, and brought straight to Slyudyanka. And the Circum-Baikal Railway is now a tourist single-track! We recommend everyone to ride it!

Sergey Karpeev
The miracle of Russia and the glorious sea!
There is no limit to your shores!
The wind rejoices in the boundless expanse,
Rumors are ascending the islands.

The waves caress the careless stones,
Dormant for centuries forgotten volcano.
In a haze ethereal forest ridges
It stretches with a chain of Khamar-Daban.

Rocks, backwaters, taiga distances,
The hills rest on a cedar slope.
The ancient Buryat sanctuary beckons
Marvelous, mysterious island of Olkhon.

Whether storms, wind, bucket, bad weather -
What does the shaman portend to us with a tambourine:
In a frenzied dance, magic under the power
The spirit that everyone calls Burkhan.

Pink-delicate sunset blush
Clouds drown in your mirrors.
Melting, blue, evening mist
Hidden on the other side of the shore.

Water, like crystal, is deep and transparent.
The fisherman throws his net.
Yar-lightning, burning fiery,
Pulls a crimson boundary in the sky.

The night begins full of stars:
The ladle sparkled with its seven stars.
With heart and sight exalted
Shout: Our Baikal is beautiful and great!

Train around Baikal

The train runs on it 4 times a week, and also back. Wonderful views of Lake Baikal and the surrounding mountains open from the windows of the carriages!

It is advisable to arrive at the station an hour before the train, but we did not do this. There were no train tickets anymore - I had to go to the cars, where you can negotiate with the conductors in order to ride the train while standing.

The train itself consists of several comfortable carriages, where everything is finished for foreign tourists, and there are also TVs showing films about Baikal, well, and minibars with drinks!

For ordinary tourists, there are other wagons, ordinary Soviet ones, but we were very happy with them, since the price in steep wagons was more than 700 rubles. per person, and in a simple car we agreed on the same price, but for the whole Team!

Moreover, we managed to successfully navigate the train - so almost everyone got seats! The car was packed almost to capacity! In the crowd, no one began to figure out who had what places, and we rolled along Baikal!

However, I did not have to sit for long, after Kultyk the train stopped near the Roerich Museum. There was also a museum of Pure Water! Viewing cost literally 10 rubles! We looked at the pictures with interest and listened to the lecture!

The train was going quite slowly, the road was old, but very interesting, in addition to the views of the lake, the train passed through a whole system of tunnels that pierced mountain ranges, and then again took us to the steep and picturesque shore of the sacred Lake!

A couple of times the train made stops so that passengers could get out of the cars and take a picture on its shore!

At the same time, Baikal souvenirs were sold, as a rule, from local gems.

Lake Baikal

On the way, we met a woman and got into a conversation with her - she was going to visit one stop. She advised us to go with her, because there is a very beautiful place! In my opinion, it was the 146th km., There were several houses there. There was a ravine in this place - a stream flowed from the mountains, there were houses, sheds and gardens. Mostly pensioners lived. Lake Baikal

The place was really worth it! From here a picturesque view of Baikal opened, 500 meters from the stop there was a good tourist stop with a fire pit and a table, and also an excellent view of the Lake. The descent to the water was quite steep, you had to either go down a steep slope along a wire (which someone pulled) or bypass through the lower parking lot.

But the main thing is real natural silence, even though there was a railway nearby, but the trains ran here once a day, and only the splash of waves and the cries of seagulls are heard!

Lake Baikal- sunset

LAKE BAIKAL - THE MIRACLE OF RUSSIA

Baikal. Amazing beauty a lake, a unique creation of nature, crystal clear water... Probably every person has heard more or less about the deepest lake on our planet. What else do you know about Baikal?
Baikal is located almost in the very center of Eurasia, among the high ridges of the Baikal mountain region. The lake is 636 km long and 80 km wide. In terms of area, Baikal is 31,470 km2, which is comparable to the area of ​​Belgium (almost 10 million people live in this European country with large cities and industrial centers). The maximum depth of the lake - 1637 km - rightfully allows calling Baikal the deepest in the world (average depth - 730 m). The African Lake Tanganyika, one of the deepest lakes on the planet, “lags behind” Baikal by 200 m. Of the thirty islands, Olkhon is the largest.

Baikal is filled with three hundred and thirty six permanent rivers and streams. One flows out of the lake. To estimate the volume of Baikal, imagine that under ideal conditions (assuming that not a single drop from the surface will fall or evaporate), the Angara, which takes out 60.9 km3 of water annually, will need 387 years of continuous operation to drain the lake!

In addition, Baikal is the oldest lake on our planet; according to various estimates, its age is 20-30 million years.
Clean, transparent Baikal water, saturated with oxygen, has long been considered healing. Due to the activity of living microorganisms living in it, the water is slightly mineralized (almost distilled), which explains its crystal transparency. In spring, water transparency reaches 40 meters!
Baikal is a repository of 20% of the world and 90% of Russia's fresh water reserves. For comparison, this is more than the water reserves in the five Great American Lakes combined! The Baikal ecosystem provides about 60 km3 clean water in year.

The flora and fauna of Baikal is amazing and diverse, which makes it unique in this respect among other freshwater lakes. Who has not heard of the famous Baikal omul? In addition to it, whitefish, lenok, taimen are found in the lake - representatives of the salmon family. Sturgeon, grayling, pike, carp, catfish, cod, perch - this is not the whole list of fish families living in Baikal. It is impossible not to mention the Baikal seal, which is the only representative of mammals in the lake. In autumn, numerous haulouts of these Baikal seals can be seen on rocky shores. Nerpa is not the only inhabitant of the coasts, a lot of gulls, mergansers, goldeneyes, turpans, shelducks, white-tailed eagles, ospreys and other birds nest along the coasts and on the islands. In addition to all of the above, on Baikal one can observe a massive exit to the shores of brown bears.
The flora and fauna of Lake Baikal is endemic. 848 animal species (15%) and 133 plant species (15%) are not found in any water body of the Earth.
The uniqueness and beauty of Baikal every year attracts an increasing number of tourists, including foreign ones. This is also facilitated by the developing infrastructure. Therefore, the main task is to preserve the integrity of the lake ecosystem. Lake Baikal

BAIKAL - THE MIRACLE OF RUSSIA
A narrow blue sickle, thrown into the mountains of Eastern Siberia, looks on the geographical map of one of the amazing wonders not only of Russia, but of the entire globe - Lake Baikal.
Many songs and legends were composed about him by the people. The Yakuts called the lake Baikal, which means "rich lake". It splashes in a huge stone basin surrounded by mountain ranges overgrown with taiga. The lake stretches from northeast to southwest for 636 km, which is approximately equal to the distance between Moscow and St. Petersburg. The largest width of Baikal is 79 km. In terms of its area (31.5 thousand sq. km), it is approximately the same as the Western European countries of Belgium or the Netherlands, and ranks eighth in size among the lakes of the globe.
Baikal is a truly unique lake. Its coast and surrounding mountains with unique fauna, flora and microclimate, as well as the lake itself with rich reserves of clean fresh water, are an invaluable gift of nature.
Of course, you know that Baikal is the deepest lake on our planet. Its depth reaches 1620 m and exceeds the depth of some seas of the globe. However, as reported in 1991, hydrologists made a correction, finding a deeper mark at 1657 m.
It contains 20% of the fresh water reserves on the globe (23 thousand cubic km). To desalinate the same amount of moisture from sea ​​water, it would be necessary to spend 25 times more money than the cost of gold mined up to this time on Earth.
Imagine: all the water can fit in the Baikal bowl Baltic Sea, although its area is approximately 10 times larger than that of the lake.
Water from 92 seas such as the Sea of ​​Azov or water from all five American Great Lakes, the total area of ​​which is 8 times larger than the area of ​​Baikal, can be poured into the Baikal basin.
According to the latest information, 1123 rivers carry their waters here, the largest of which are Barguzin, Upper Angara, and flows out.
The level of the lake rises above the mouth of the Angara by 378 m, which creates a large fall energy. A cascade of powerful power plants has been built here. There are 27 islands on the lake, all of them are small. Only Olkhon, which is located almost in the middle of the lake, has an area of ​​729 sq. km.

Olkhon Island Lake Baikal

Such a high-water reservoir cannot but influence the climate of the surrounding area. In summer, Baikal tempers the heat, and in winter - severe Siberian frosts. Therefore, the climate here is milder than in neighboring areas. For example, Peschanaya Bay is the only area in Eastern Siberia where the average annual air temperature is about 0 degrees C (more precisely, +0.4 degrees C). Baikal freezes only in January. However, even in the heat, the water is not more than +12 gr.S.
Since the difference between air temperatures and atmospheric pressure above the surface of the lake and in the surrounding mountains is very large, storms often play out on Baikal. There are more sunny days a year here, for example, than in some resort areas Black Sea region.
There is no lake on the globe, the water in which is more transparent than Baikal. The white disc, lowered here to determine the transparency of the water, is visible from a depth of about 40 m.
In addition, the lake water is very pleasant to the taste. "Those who have ever taken a sip of Baikal water," Siberians say, "will definitely come back for another sip."

Baikal is the oldest lake on Earth. Its basin began to form 25-30 million years ago. The age of modern outlines is over a million years. The origin and structure of the bottom of the lake, as well as the processes that take place there, scientists in Lately studied with the help of the Pisis deep-sea submersible. Unique photographs of the bottom of Lake Baikal were taken at a depth of 1410 m. The enhanced seismicity of the basin and the associated change in the shoreline of the lake were proved.
It has been established that annually the shores of the lake move apart by an average of approximately 2 cm, and its area increases by 3 hectares.
Earthquakes, and they sometimes happen here up to 2000 a year, are mostly small. There are also quite tangible ones, such as, for example, in 1862, when part of the coast fell through and a bay was formed, called the Failure. And during the earthquake of 1958, the bottom of the lake near Olkhon Island sank by 20 m.
About active life The subsoil is also evidenced by the presence on the shores of the lake and in the mountains adjacent to it, numerous hot springs with temperatures from +30 degrees. up to + 90 gr.С. And at the same time, the age of the rocks highlands around Baikal is approximately 2 billion years.

And Lake Baikal

One of the amazing features of the lake is its truly unique wildlife. It has more than 1500 species, and 75% of them live only on Baikal. There are more fish here alone than in some seas - 49 species, and almost all the indigenous "Baikals", for example, the famous omul. "There is no Baikal without omul" - such is the local saying. Very interesting is the viviparous golomyanka fish. She is so fat that she is washed ashore by a storm, almost completely melts under the sun's rays. Its fat contains many medicinal organic compounds and vitamins, which is why it is also called "medical fish".
Of the other species of the Baikal fauna, there are 80 crustaceans alone, among which the crustacean epishura is very valuable for the ecology of the lake. Small in size (the mass of a thousand crustaceans is only 1 mg), this baby, getting food, tirelessly works for the benefit of the lake. It filters water through a special organ, purifying it from various bacteria and algae. During the year, these microscopic "orderlies" manage to filter about 1500 cubic meters several times. km of water to a depth of 5-10 m, which is 10 times more than it enters the lake from all rivers, and the annual flow of the lake through the Angara is only 60 cubic meters. km. It is thanks to the tireless activity of the crustacean epishura that the unusual purity of Baikal waters is maintained.
Many berries, mushrooms, flowers and herbs grow in the coastal taiga forests. The decoration of the animal world is the famous Barguzin sable.
Unfortunately, in connection with the development of industry in Siberia, including in the areas adjacent to Baikal, the construction of a number of large enterprises in the woodworking, wood-chemical and other industries, as well as non-ferrous metallurgy, often with gross violations of the environmental situation, over unique lake a deadly threat loomed. To save Lake Baikal from pollution is an urgent task of our time.

GEOGRAPHY OF LAKE BAIKAL
Baikal (bur. Baigal dalai, Baigal nuur) is a lake of tectonic origin in the southern part of Eastern Siberia, the deepest lake on the planet, the largest natural reservoir of fresh water.
The lake and coastal areas are distinguished by a unique variety of flora and fauna, most of the animal species are endemic. Locals and many in Russia traditionally call Baikal the sea.
Baikal is located in the center of the Asian continent on the border of the Irkutsk region and the Republic of Buryatia in the Russian Federation. The lake stretches from northeast to southwest for 620 km in the form of a giant crescent. The width of Lake Baikal ranges from 24 to 79 km. The bottom of Lake Baikal is 1167 meters below the level of the World Ocean, and the mirror of its waters is 455.5 meters higher.
The water surface area of ​​Lake Baikal is 31,722 km² (excluding islands), which is approximately equal to the area of ​​countries such as Belgium or the Netherlands. In terms of the area of ​​the water surface, Baikal ranks sixth among the largest lakes in the world.
The length of the coastline is 2100 km.
The lake is located in a kind of basin, surrounded on all sides by mountain ranges and hills. At the same time, the western coast is rocky and steep, the relief east coast- more gentle (in some places the mountains recede from the coast for tens of kilometers).
Baikal is the deepest lake on Earth. The modern value of the maximum depth of the lake - 1642 m - was established in 1983 by L. G. Kolotilo and A. I. Sulimov during the hydrographic work of the expedition of the GUNiO MO USSR at a point with coordinates 53 ° 14′59 ″ n. sh. 108°05′11″ E d. (G) (O).

The tributaries and runoff of Baikal
According to studies of the 19th century, 336 rivers and streams flowed into Baikal, this number took into account only constant tributaries. There are no more recent data on this issue, however, sometimes figures of 544 or 1123 are given (which are given as a result of counting ravines, and not permanent watercourses). It is also believed that due to anthropogenic impact and climate change on Baikal from the 19th century to the present time, about 150 watercourses could disappear.
The largest of Baikal's tributaries are the Upper Angara, Barguzin, Turka, Snezhnaya, and Sarma. It flows out of the lake. There are 336 permanent streams in total. Lake Baikal

ICE OF LAKE BAIKAL
During the freeze-up period (January 9-May 4 on average), Baikal freezes entirely, except for a small area 15-20 km long, located at the source of the Angara. Shipping period for passenger and cargo ships usually open from June to September; research vessels begin navigation after the ice breaks up the lake and complete it with the freezing of Lake Baikal, that is, from May to January.
By the end of winter, the ice thickness on Baikal reaches 1 m, and in the bays - 1.5–2 m. severe frost cracks, which are locally called "stave gaps", break the ice into separate fields. The length of such fissures is 10–30 km, and the width is 2–3 m. The ruptures occur annually in approximately the same regions of the lake. They are accompanied by a loud crack, reminiscent of thunder or cannon shots. It seems to a person standing on the ice that the ice cover is bursting just under his feet and he will now fall into the abyss [source not specified 539 days]. Thanks to cracks in the ice, fish in the lake do not die from lack of oxygen. Baikal ice is also very transparent, and the sun's rays penetrate through it, so planktonic algae, which release oxygen, flourish in the water. Along the shores of Lake Baikal, one can observe ice grottoes and splashes in winter.
Baikal ice presents scientists with many mysteries. So, in the 1940s, specialists from the Baikal Limnological Station discovered unusual forms of ice cover, typical only for Lake Baikal. For example, “hills” are cone-shaped ice hills up to 6 m high, hollow inside. In appearance, they resemble ice tents, “open” in the opposite direction from the coast. Hills can be located separately, and sometimes form miniature "mountain ranges". Also on Baikal there are several more types of ice: “sokuy”, “kolobovnik”, “autumn”.
In addition, in the spring of 2009, Internet satellite imagery different parts of Baikal where dark rings were found. According to scientists, these rings arise due to the rise of deep waters and an increase in the temperature of the surface layer of water in the central part of the ring structure. As a result of this process, an anticyclonic (clockwise) current is formed. In the zone where the current reaches maximum speeds, the vertical water exchange intensifies, which leads to accelerated destruction of the ice cover.

Oltrek Island, Small Sea, Baikal

Islands and peninsulas
There are 27 islands on Baikal (Ushkany Islands, Olkhon Island, Yarki Island and others). The largest of them is Olkhon (71 km long and 12 km wide, located almost in the center of the lake near its west coast, area - 729 km², according to other sources - 700 km²). The largest peninsula is Svyatoy Nos.

seismic activity
The Baikal region (the so-called Baikal rift zone) belongs to areas with high seismicity: earthquakes regularly occur here, the strength of most of which is one or two points on the MSK-64 intensity scale. However, there are also strong ones; So, in 1862, during a ten-point Kudarinsky earthquake in the northern part of the Selenga delta, a land area of ​​​​200 km² with 6 uluses, in which 1300 people lived, went under water, and Proval Bay was formed. Strong earthquakes were also recorded in 1903 (Baikal), 1950 (Mondinskoe), 1957 (Muiskoe), 1959 (Middle Baikal). The epicenter of the Middle Baikal earthquake was located at the bottom of Lake Baikal near the village of Sukhaya (southeast coast). His strength reached 9 points. In Ulan-Ude and Irkutsk, the strength of the main shock reached 5-6 points, cracks and minor damage were observed in buildings and structures. The last strong earthquakes on Baikal occurred in August 2008 (9 points) and in February 2010 (6.1 points).

map of Lake Baikal

Origin of the lake
The origin of Baikal still causes scientific controversy. Scientists traditionally determine the age of the lake at 25-35 million years. This fact also makes Baikal unique. natural object, since most lakes, especially glacial origin, live an average of 10-15 thousand years, and then fill with silty sediments and swamp.
However, there is also a version about the youth of Lake Baikal, put forward by Doctor of Geological and Mineralogical Sciences A. V. Tatarinov in 2009, which received indirect confirmation during the second stage of the expedition "Worlds" to Baikal. In particular, the activity of mud volcanoes at the bottom of Lake Baikal allows scientists to assume that the modern coastline of the lake is only 8 thousand years old, and the deep-water part is 150 thousand years old.

What is certain is that the lake is located in a rift basin and is similar in structure, for example, to the Dead Sea basin. Some researchers explain the formation of Baikal by its location in the zone of a transform fault, others suggest the presence of a mantle plume under Baikal, and others explain the formation of the basin by passive rifting as a result of the collision of the Eurasian plate and Hindustan. Be that as it may, the transformation of Baikal continues to this day - earthquakes constantly occur in the vicinity of the lake. There are suggestions that the subsidence of the basin is associated with the formation of vacuum chambers due to the outpouring of basalts on the surface (Quaternary period).

Grottoes of Borg-Dagan, Olkhon Island

Flora and fauna
About 2,600 species and subspecies of aquatic animals live in Baikal, more than half of which are endemic, that is, they live only in this reservoir. These include about 1000 endemic species, 96 genera, 11 endemic families and subfamilies. 27 species of Baikal fish are found nowhere else. Such an abundance of living organisms is explained by the high oxygen content in the entire thickness of the Baikal water. 100% endemism is observed among nematodes of the Mermitidae family (28 species), Polychaeta worms (4 species), Lubomirskiidae sponges (14), Gregarinea gregarines, Isopoda isopods (5), Plecoptera stoneflies. Almost all species and subspecies of amphipods (349 out of 350, 99%) and scorpion fish (31 out of 32, 96%) are endemic to the lake. 90% of turbellarian worms (130 out of 150) and barnacles (132 out of 150) are endemic. Many fish are endemic to Baikal: 36 out of 61 species and subspecies (59%), 2 families (13.3%) and 12 genera (37.5%).
One of the endemics, the crustacean epishura, makes up to 80% of the zooplankton biomass of the lake and is the most important link in the food chain of the reservoir. It performs the function of a filter: it passes water through itself, purifying it.
Baikal oligochaetes, 84.5% of which are endemic, make up to 70-90% of the zoobenthos biomass and play an important role in the processes of self-purification of the lake and as a food base for benthophagous fish and predatory invertebrates. They are involved in soil aeration and mineralization of organic matter.
The most interesting in Baikal is the viviparous golomyanka fish, whose body contains up to 30% fat. It surprises biologists with daily feeding migrations from the depths to shallow waters. Of the fish in Baikal, there are Baikal omul, grayling, whitefish, Baikal sturgeon (Acipenser baeri baicalensis), burbot, taimen, pike and others. Baikal is unique among lakes in that freshwater sponges grow here at great depths.

The origin of the toponym "Baikal
The origin of the name of the lake is not exactly established. Below are the most common versions of the origin of the toponym "Baikal":
From the name of the nationality and the country of bayyrku (bayegu, bayirku, bayurku)
From the Buryat bai - "stand" and gal "fire" (according to legend, Baikal was formed on the site of a fire-breathing mountain)
From Buryat "mighty standing water"
From the Buryat baikhaa "natural, natural, natural, existing"
From Buryat "rich fire"]
From the Yakut baai "rich" and kyul "lake"]
From the Yakut baikhal, baigal "sea", "big, deep water"]
From the Arabic Bahr-al-Baq "a sea that gives birth to many tears", "a sea of ​​\u200b\u200bterror"
From the Buryat "Baygaal-dalai", "extensive, big body of water like the sea", where dalai also means "boundless, universal, supreme, supreme".
From the Yukagir vaiguol "fin: forest washed ashore by water"
The first Russian explorers of Siberia used the Evenki name "Lamu" (sea). From the second half of the 17th century, Russians switched to the name adopted by the Buryats - Bur. Baigal. At the same time, they adapted it to their language, replacing the “g” characteristic of the Buryats with the more familiar “k” for the Russian language, as a result of which the modern name was finally formed.

Neutrino telescope
A unique deep-sea neutrino telescope NT200, built in 1993-1998, was created and operates on the lake, with the help of which high-energy neutrinos are detected. Since 2010, the construction of the NT1000 neutrino telescope with an effective volume of 1 km3 has been underway, the construction of which is expected to be completed no earlier than 2017.

"Worlds" on Baikal
In the summer of 2008, the Foundation for Assistance to the Preservation of Lake Baikal carried out a research expedition "Worlds on Baikal". 52 deep-sea manned submersibles "Mir" were immersed to the bottom of Lake Baikal.
Scientists delivered samples of water, soil and microorganisms taken from the bottom of Lake Baikal to the P.P. Shirshov Institute of Oceanology of the Russian Academy of Sciences.
The expedition continued in 2009 and 2010.

Lake Baikal, Cape Khoboy

Tourists on Baikal
There are many ways to get to Baikal. As a rule, those wishing to visit it first go to one of the nearest major cities: Irkutsk, Ulan-Ude or Severobaikalsk, in order to plan your route in more detail from there. Driving along the Trans-Siberian Railway between Irkutsk and Ulan-Ude, you can admire the views of the lake for hours, stretching right outside the train window.
70 km from Irkutsk, on the shores of Lake Baikal near the source of the Angara, the village of Listvyanka is located - one of the most popular places tourism on Baikal. You can get here from the regional center by bus or boat in just over an hour. Rest in Listvyanka is valued because of the huge number of excursions and active rest, it is here that most cruises on the sea-lake originate. Most popular routes pass from the village to Bolshie Koty, to the Svyatoy Nos peninsula, Olkhon Island and other places.
Also on the shores of Lake Baikal are the cities of Slyudyanka and Baikalsk. Located in Slyudyanka Train Station, entirely built of marble. Baikalsk has ski slope, lift works in summer time; in sunny weather you can see opposite side lakes with spurs of the Baikal Range.
On east coast Barguzinsky Bay is especially popular, next to which the construction of the tourist and recreational zone "Baikal Harbor" continues. In the village of Maksimikha, you can take a tour with a visit to the Holy Nose peninsula. Horse riding and hiking available. To the south are the settlements of Novy Enkhaluk, Zarechye, Sukhaya. Here, private individuals organized the reception of guests, including in yurts, comfortable rest houses appeared. Between Enkhaluk and Sukhoi there is a hydrogen sulfide thermal source Zagza.
, which is rich in picturesque bays, mysterious islands, healing springs. Good view the bay opens from the tops of the Holy Nose, which can be reached from the village of Ust-Barguzin.

Thirty kilometers south of the mouth of the Selenga River is Posolsky Sor Bay, where two tourist camps have settled - Kultushnaya and Baikal surf. Many camp sites provide tourist services there.
Almost in the very north of the lake there is a Khakusy resort, which can only be reached by boat from the village of Nizhneangarsk or the city of Severobaikalsk or in winter on ice.
The Great Baikal Trail passes through various sections around the lake - a system of ecological trails and one of the most beautiful ways for tourists to see the unique nature and enjoy the breathtaking views and panoramas of Lake Baikal.

Attractions
On Baikal and around it there are many monuments of nature, culture, as well as historical and archaeological sites. Listed below are just a few of them.
Northern Baikal
Rock Shaman-stone

Barguzinsky Bay
Ushkany Islands
Sandy Bay
Cape Skala Shamanka on Olkhon Island
Cape Ludar
Cape Ryty
Chersky Peak - 2090 m above sea level
Circum-Baikal Railway
Frolikha (tract)

Baikal port

Interesting Facts
If all the water contained in Baikal (23,615.390 km³) is divided into all Russian citizens (141,927,297 people), then each will have about 166.4 thousand cubic meters of water, which is approximately 2,773 railway tanks of 60 tons each.
According to the well-known explorer of the lake, Ph.D. L. G. Kolotilo "Price of Baikal", the utilitarian cost of water in the lake is 236 trillion dollars. His article aroused a certain interest, including from Greenpeace Russia, and its main provisions were announced on November 27, 2012 (without reference to the author) in an interview with V. V. Zhirinovsky on the Vesti 24 TV channel.

Myths and legends about Baikal
There is a legend that the father of Baikal had 336 rivers-sons and they all flowed into his father in order to replenish his waters, but now his daughter fell in love with the Yenisei River and began to carry her father's waters to her beloved. In response, Father Baikal threw a huge piece of rock at his daughter and cursed her. This rock, called the Shaman-stone, is located at the source of the Angara and is considered its beginning.
In another variation of the legend, it is said that Baikal had an only daughter, Angara. She fell in love with the Yenisei and decided to run away to him. Baikal, having learned about this, tried to block her path by throwing a Shaman-stone to the source, but Angara ran further, then Baikal sent his nephew Irkut after her in pursuit, but he took pity on Angara and turned off the path. The Angara met the Yenisei and flowed further along with it.

Big Kyltygey (Shaggy) Island

Circum-Baikal hiking trail
Tourist Information
Plot 1: pos. Kultuk - Art. Marituy - Baikal port, 84 km, 22 hours net time, average speed - 4 km/h.
There is no such place on Baikal anymore - there are no slopes on it, and from the very beginning, the 156th kilometer to the port and Baikal station at the 73rd kilometer, the traveler theoretically does not rise a single meter. It was about this site that Irkutsk citizen P. Taymenev said in travel notes"A few words about the Siberian railway", published in the journal "Priroda" and people in St. Petersburg in 1890: "In our deep, unshakable conviction, the Siberian railway is an indestructible cultural monument of the 19th century, it is a manifestation of the Russian national grandeur, this is the fulfillment of the moral duty of contemporaries in the face of future generations, this is one of the best pages of modern Russian history, this is an entry on the threshold of the twentieth century.
Surprisingly, the tourist boom on this section of the Circum-Baikal Railway began only after its "discoveries" by a number of newspaper publications in the Irkutsk regional newspapers in the seventies. This is partly due to the development of rock climbing on the shores of Lake Baikal. Previously, this was the most exotic section of the Trans-Siberian only for passengers of trains, especially those traveling to the east, for whom at the Baikal station the sacred lake suddenly and immediately plowed open, in all its gigantic beauty and power. Still, it is still unlikely to be seen anywhere not only here, but also abroad: on the one hand, rearing aquamarine waves of the surf literally lick the wagon wheels, on the opposite side, no matter how hard you try, you will not see the top of the vocal cliff from the window. And the train now and then dived into the darkness of endless tunnels, at short stops at numerous half-stations there was a brisk trade in no less exotic omul "with a smell".

The builder, who came here in 1899 along the Angara valley, met with extraordinary technical difficulties. The Olkha Plateau breaks off into a lake like a wall throughout the entire area, the shore has largely retained its tectonic relief. Composed of very strong crystalline rocks - granites, gneisses, crystalline schists - it has undergone relatively little change over millions of years, is slightly indented in configuration and has practically no deep and convenient bays for receiving and laying ships. Nevertheless, severe climatic conditions, which contribute to intensive processes of physical weathering, high seismic activity favor the development of rock falls and screes.
That is why the line had to be laid on shelves carved into the rocky slopes, sometimes with stone cladding of upland slopes to a great height. Often this required such a significant amount of work that it was more profitable to lay the route on embankments using retaining walls. high altitude, sometimes on bridges across bays and valleys, and most often these structures had to be erected in combination. Often the construction of a tunnel was the only way out (the route was created from two ends). They were built immediately under two tracks, using natural stone lining, and today the circular vaults of tunnel portals with keystones, on which the dates of construction are forever inscribed, amaze with the thoroughness of the finish and beauty, merged in harmony with the surroundings. wildlife. A lot of trouble was caused by the passage of rockfalls - the roadbed was then protected by reinforced concrete or stone luggage galleries. The destructive work of the waves was also taken into account - breakwaters, wave-breaking walls repeat the outlines of the coast for almost the entire length.

Ust-Anga Bay, Lake Baikal

Sometimes not only in one place - in one section! - I had to build up to ten structures. There is just such a place in front of the Marituy station: the watercourse had to be drawn over the structures and taken to Baikal, but it was not easy to do this on a cliff. And today, when you approach this puzzle, brilliantly embodied in stone and concrete from an engineering point of view, from the side of the port of Baikal, you trace the path of the stream with involuntary admiration: high above, where not only to place building structures, materials and mechanisms - it seems there is nowhere to stand - he was sent to a concrete rapid, then he fell into a stone water-cutting well, from where, behind the tunnel portal, he was enclosed in a flume rapid, then placed in a canal, and since there were high retaining and then wave-breaking walls on the way, he had to be led over them in cantilever reinforced concrete spillway.
Weekend hikes are a great future for the Circum-Baikal Road. In the meantime, good transport links make it accessible mainly to residents of the cities of Shelekhov, Irkutsk, Angarsk, Usolye-Sibirsky, as well as Cheremkhov and Sayansk. If you use Friday evening for the entrance, then in two days you can do both short trips, starting from the stations and stopping points of the pass section (Rassokha, Orlyonka, Tayozhny, Podkamennaya, Pereezd, Andrianovskaya, Angasolka, etc.), and crossings with the crossing of the Olkhinsky plateau and access to the coast. In winter, ski trips are reduced to a very popular one-day "family" route from Moving along the valley of the Bolshaya Krutaya Guba River to the stopping point Temnaya Pad or to the city of Slyudyanka with the crossing of Lake Baikal in its southern part. The tradition of the people of Irkutsk firmly includes one-day throws-transitions (cross-country and skiing on ice) from the source of the Angara to Slyudyanka (to the Staraya Angasolka half-station) at a distance of 70-80 km.

So, no matter what type of tourism we choose, the task before us in the weekend hike is the same - the need to cover the site in two days. It is desirable to start in the port of Baikal. It is connected with Irkutsk by numerous means of communication (motor ships, hydrofoils, buses to Listvenichny), and it is convenient to leave Kultuk for Irkutsk by train in the evening (stopping point "Zemlyanichny"). It remains to be added that water travel provides an excellent opportunity to unusual angle look at the panorama of coastal structures. Particularly impressive are the magnificent arch bridges through the rivers Shumilikha, Bolshaya Polovinnaya, Marituy, Bolshaya Krutaya Guba, Angasolka, with their outlines reminiscent of Roman aqueducts. As for the organization of bivouacs, here, almost at any time, you can organize "both a table and a house" - there are many convenient sites within the subgrade. You can also count on the truly Siberian hospitality of the local population at numerous posts and villages, which, by the way, have repeatedly had to use. IN hiking this will eliminate the need to carry a tent and bedding with you for two nights. Apparently, the mass interests should also be taken into account by the administration and build huts and shelters.

It is worth staying a little in the port of Baikal, final destination route, marked with a kilometer column "73" (for the Circum-Baikal Road, the previous mileage, starting from Irkutsk, has been preserved). It was from here that the construction attack on the rock "fortifications" of Baikal unfolded in 1898, here the famous ferry crossing across Baikal began, which had no equal in the whole world and which was designed to ensure uninterrupted train communication throughout the Trans-Siberian Railway to Vladivostok during the construction of the route to Kultuk. For this purpose, two icebreakers were ordered and assembled in Listvenichny in England; for the transportation of assets - "Baikal" and passengers - "Angara".
In terms of size, the icebreaker-ferry "Baikal" was considered the second in the world: its length is 100 m and a width of 16 m, the crew consisted of 200 people. On three railway tracks there were 27 two-axle wagons with cargo and a steam locomotive. Three main steam engines and 20 auxiliary served two stern and a special bow propellers, he covered the distance from Baikal station to Mysovaya station in 4.5 hours in 4.5 hours and was able to break ice of a meter thickness. In the five years of operation of the ferry crossing, only once, in the severe frosts of January 1904, the icebreaker could not cope with its duties. I had to build an ice railway. The wagons were moved along it by horses, which were mobilized together with the owners from the villages of Transbaikalia and the Irkutsk province. "Baikal" died in a civil war at a combat post, "Angara" has survived to this day: by the decision of the Irkutsk regional committee of the Komsomol, it was proposed to create a museum of military and revolutionary glory on it.

Cape Small Kolokolny, Baikal

Monuments of nature
Belaya Vyemka is a remarkable geological monument of nature, the object of excursions of the 27th International Geological Congress, located at 105 km. It is simply impossible to pass by it without noticing it: especially on a sunny day, its slopes blind with powerful radiance, the marble bottom is not immediately lost in the blue of the depths. For the convenience of study and inspection, all exploration cuts and wells are numbered with red paint, while lovers of mineralogy last years it is becoming more and more famous due to the presence of numerous crystals of the precious spinel, a hard mineral, reaching a length of several centimeters. It is located on 104 km of the Circum-Baikal section of the East-Sib. railway The outcrop of marbles with a rare combination of rocks and minerals in the coastal part of the lake, the venue for the excursions of the International Geological Year (IGY), monuments of all-Russian significance.
Bird Market - this is how it was decided to name this zoological monument of nature, the only nesting place of the herring gull on a steep 300-meter cliff in the southern half of the lake, located at 133 km. For local residents the arrival of gulls on it in May is a sure sign that Baikal will soon disperse (that is, the ice will melt on it). From a boat or kayak it is clearly visible from May to August how the entire cliff, from the water's edge to the wooded top, is dotted with white columns of birds, their hubbub deafens at a great distance. And naturally, during the period of nesting and growing up of chicks, the colony should not be disturbed by visits. Located in the area of ​​st. Sharyzhalgay of the Circum-Baikal section (133 km) East-Sib. and. e. A place of constant mass nesting of the herring gull, the only place in southern Baikal where nests are located on the coastal walls.

In recent years, due to the limitation of shooting, flocks of seals often appear along the coast. And although this is a sure sign that everything is fine with the composition of the water, and the factor of concern is small, one should not delude himself with this (the mass death of animals in 1987 leads to disappointing thoughts).
On February 25, 1985, among 26 natural objects, by the decision of the Irkutsk Regional Executive Committee, the source of the Angara River, the only watercourse that drains all the water entering Baikal, was approved as a natural monument.
The source of the Angara is a natural monument of republican significance. The width of the river here reaches a kilometer, and it is here, at the exit from the lake, that there is a kind of ledge in the form of a rocky threshold, above which the average water depth is only 3.5 m and the water speed is 12 - 15 km / h. The relatively warm bottom waters of Lake Baikal, entering the threshold, do not allow the surface of the source to freeze in winter. At the same time, the source is a kind of wind pipe that serves as a place of invasion of the lake by cold north-western air currents, while in the opposite direction, the cooled air of the Baikal basin flows through it. This climatic feature of the source noticeably restrains the development of phenological phenomena here. However, it is included in the section "Zoological monuments of nature", and this was made possible by the only mass permanent wintering of lamella-billed birds in all of North Asia, numbering annually 8-12 thousand waterfowl. On a huge polynya, stretching for 3 - 5 km and existing due to the high speed and constant positive temperature of the water, mergansers and ducks predominate, dippers constantly hibernate. Harsh winters can significantly reduce the size of the polynya (winter 1983), but only once in 200 years has its short-term complete freezing been canceled. The rarest in number in the north-east of Asia wintering of lamella-beaks, different from the environment climatic features at all times of the year. All-Russian significance.
According to scientists, the wintering of waterfowl is as historically ancient as the presence of a polynya at the source, and the peculiar behavior of birds wintering here suggests that a special ecological group winters here, which has long adapted to extreme living conditions (it has been established, for example, that ducks spend the night in hummocky ice). That is why the scientific interest in this wintering is exceptional.

Output of marbles in the port of Baikal. Located in the port of Baikal, on the cliff of the Olkhinsky plateau. Outcrops of marbles in the most ancient Precambrian complexes of the world aged 3.4-3.7 billion years. The object of excursions of international and all-Union geological forums.

Krutogub outcrop. Located in the mouth of the river. Big Steep Guba on the Olkhinsky Plateau. Petrographic and mineralogical object.

Shaman stone - a tiny rocky island at the head of the Angara, a geomorphological monument of nature, the top of a rocky rapid, poetic Buryat legend is firmly connected with the hero Baikal and his beautiful daughter Angara. Located at the source of the river. Hangars. The only protrusion of the Angara threshold protruding above the water is known from a colorful Buryat legend. It is also connected with the unrealized project of the fast filling of the Bratsk reservoir, which could have fatal consequences for the fauna of the lake. It was developed by MOSGIDEP and provided for the device at the source of the Angara, in its channel, a channel up to 9 km long, up to 100 m wide at the top and 11 m useful depth, for which a massive explosion was calculated for ejection using 30 thousand tons of TNT. An explosion that was supposed to lift 7 million cubic meters into the air. m of soil, it was proposed to be implemented in 1960 in order to reduce the time for filling the Bratsk reservoir from four years to a minimum, to obtain additional energy in the amount of 32 billion kWh. The implementation of the calculated project could lower the level of Lake Baikal to 11 m, but even lowering it by 3-5 m would cause a widespread reshaping of the coast, a change in the normal living conditions of fish, ports, timber transshipment bases, and the railway would suffer. In view of the fact that it was difficult to foresee everything possible consequences this bold in engineering terms, but adventurous, apparently, according to the design of the project, it was rejected.

And here is what I got for the first section - from Kultuk to the source of the Angara, carefully summing up the data scattered over the pages of diary entries: streams - 41, rivers and streams - 13, river - 1 (Big Half), total - 55.
Conclusions: the site of the village. Kultuk - the port of Baikal is not so much a ready-made segment of the Baikal trail, easily accessible due to developed transport communications, but a real tourist "way", a highway with extremely grateful natural features and a rare technical history. A lot of work still needs to be done to make the Circum-Baikalskaya the road of millions, but so much has already been done by man that it is mainly up to the reserve, the owner, who would turn this fertile corner into a paradise for tourists. And urgently it would be necessary to deal with providing tourists with firewood, because due to the lack of dead wood and a small amount of driftwood on the shore, in places of an intensive influx of tourists and vacationers, threatening conditions are created for the forest, especially in the area that is most overloaded from the mouth of the Bolshaya Krutaya Guba to Kultuk. It came to the point that from the village of Angasolka to Kultuk, all the picket and kilometer posts disappeared.

Cape Svyatoy Nos, Zmeevaya Bay

LEGENDS AND LEGENDS OF LAKE BAIKAL
The emergence of Khamar-Daban
How the Sayans arose, I have already told you. Such mountains as the Sayans were not created by a small force, from that force, probably, the whole earth trembled. Yes, a small force would never have created them. Then, probably, it was like this: that force broke out from the Earth, and it accumulated, maybe for millions of years, threw everything out at once, and the Sayans are ready. When the Sayans cooled down, there were still a lot of forces left in the Earth, they dispersed in different directions and began to lift the earth above them with jerks along the entire road. But this was no longer the force that worked on the Sayans. This is how, in small shocks, the underground force came from the Sayans closer to sunrise and raised the earth on its way. The one where the push was stronger, there the mountains rose higher, where it was smaller, there the saddle remained.
In a word, the mountains from the Sayans to the east began to look like a humpbacked nose, for which the Buryats called them "Khamar-Daban". Many years later, when Khamar-Daban arose, a lot of earth was blown on it from the plain. The mountains were not high, so they were covered with earth. All the cracks that came out of the shocks when the earth rose uphill were covered with earth from the valleys.
The sun did not burn the earth very much on Khamar-Daban, and soon it was covered with forest. Then animals and birds divorced in the forest, people migrated there, closer to the mountains, they began to live and live and make good.

Bezymyannaya Bay, Baikal

About how Baikal happened
Old people used to tell about how Baikal happened. There is not much land on earth. Everyone knows that if you dig a hole a few sazhens, or even less, different sand, clay, stone and other different rocks will immediately come out. The deeper you dig a hole, the less land, that's all. more stone goes, but different soil, which is not visible on the ground. And further, in the very depths of the earth, only stones go, and even further water. A different stone lies in the ground. There is also one on which you drop water - it begins to boil and fall apart. There is a lot of such stone in the depths of the earth, much more than on the surface. This is what happened a thousand years ago: water and stone met deep in the earth. As they converged, they boiled. Where should the couple go? He climbed in different directions and moved the earth from its place, and it went in a wave and, more than that, shook the whole earth. So the earth seethed in the depths, seethed, and then water and steam escaped upward, and the water covered low places. She could not go further, there were mountains all around, and so Baikal turned out. It never subsides, because water always props it up from under the ground, and that water, they say, lives with the Arctic Ocean in its relatives. Previously, old people often simply told: they would break a boat on Baikal, and they found boards in the Arctic, or what would sink in the Arctic - floated up on Baikal.

How Olkhon Island was formed
Not everything is true that is said in legends. There used to be talk that, they say, everything was created by God, as the scripture says. Who believed that, and who did not believe. Most of all, people did not believe those fairy tales. The priests were angry at this, cursed with an anathema, but what's the point: a curse is not smoke, it won't eat your eyes. Let's take our Olkhon, it's called an island. Where did he come from? God would not have had enough strength to lower him from the sky. It means that he did not fall from the sky, but from nature itself.
When Baikal appeared, all the places here were flooded with water and there was not a single island. A million years have passed, the water has settled, fish have begun to be found in Baikal, the forests have rustled around - in a word, real life has begun here. After that, strong winds began to blow on Baikal, so strong that the whole Baikal boiled from them, as if in a cauldron. The waves reached the very bottom, from where all the stone and sand were driven to the shore. But the waves did not catch up with the stones to the very shore, they caught on the underwater rock. The waves worked for many years, everyone drove and drove stone and sand to the sakla. And so, at that rock, a whole mountain was washed up, large, wide and long. Other waves washed away that mountain and gradually made it level. From this, the island of Olkhon came from. Old people say that Olkhon is higher for years, and sometimes lower for years. This is from what is on the rock. When the rocks are washed away, the island sinks a little, and when a lot of water is supported under the rocks, it rises a little. At first they thought that some kind of unclean force was working here, and then they themselves were convinced that it all depended on the wind. So believe the priests that the island was created by God. Why didn't he create it in the middle of Lake Baikal, where there is no rock? That's why the priests are silent, and the holy scripture does not say about it. That everything was created by God in a week is said by those who do not want to think, or that dope is beneficial to them.

Failure at Baikal
There was a failure at Baikal under my father. He often reminded me of him, and from him our whole village knew how and what went there. Not only is it scary to talk about failure, but it’s also very painful to remember. Many in those days of failure of people remained crippled for life: some had their legs, their arms broken, some had lost their minds, and some, out of grief, when they were left naked and did not get out of bitter need, the poor fellow left for the next world.
Where was the poor man to go at that time? There is nothing to live, lie down and die. When all this happened, faith in God was lost. Looks like he is weak before the force of nature. Those who used to say that everything is done by God's will have ceased to believe in it. It became clear to us, ordinary peasants, that not by the power of God's mountains, rivers, lakes, seas and oceans were created, but by the will of nature, which conceals tremendous power in itself, and as long as a person is weak, she will do with him whatever she wants.
Salvation is in the will of God when you yourself do not know what to do, and when you do not know what is going on around you. After the Baikal failure, all the old people began to say that Baikal itself happened in the same way as this failure. This means that the grandfathers also correctly conveyed that from the fiery and water columns between the mountains, the water flooded the padi, and in that place the sea-Baikal became. The people now firmly believe this truth.

Peschanaya Bay, Cape Maly Kolokolny

Why did Barguzin flow in the other direction
My grandfather was the first to settle in the village of Tolstikhino, when there were only three houses in Barguzin itself. My grandfather lived here for about eighty years, my father lived for about a hundred years, but I have been living here for ninety-four years. In a word, our entire clan has been living here for a long time. We all knew how to speak Buryat and Tungus. It passed from grandfather to father, and from him to me. From the Buryats and Tunguses they heard how our Barguzin River used to flow, from their childhood I took over and I will tell you what I remember.
Previously, it was a very long time ago, the Barguzin River did not flow to Baikal, but from Baikal to the Arctic Ocean, and then it turned back and began to run to where it came from. It was not done by God, it was the will of the earth. It happened like this: Baikal stood, stood, there were high mountains around it, nowhere on Earth are there higher than them, and between these mountains water kept accumulating and accumulating. In the mountains, ice and snow melted, it rained, all this flowed into Baikal. A lot of water rose in it, it covered half of the mountains, and there was nowhere else for it to go, and the mountain rivers all poured and poured their water into the sea. And then one day one mountain could not stand it, burst. Water broke through and flowed through it to Baikal. She washed away the whole taiga, made a flat place from mountain to mountain and reached the very Arctic Ocean. Then in Baikal there was a lot of water, the river flowed wide and deep, and when it became smaller, it began to gather into a narrow channel. Water flowed, flowed along the river and flooded the entire coast near the ocean, there were great colds, and ice mountains began to grow from that water. At first, water broke through them, because there was a lot of it in Baikal, and having got rid of it, the water lost its strength. After many years, the icy mountains prevented the water from Baikal from going straight to the ocean. The frozen ice began to approach Baikal closer and closer. The river became shorter every year and washed out its top. In the end, she so washed out her valley, through which she flowed in the first years, that the valley rose above Baikal. Water stopped running from Baikal to it, and at that time other rivers from the mountains and bald mountains began to run into the old channel. There was nowhere for that water to go, the river turned back and went to Baikal. When the water went to the ocean, a lot of silt was applied to the valley, the entire forest at the bottom of the river rotted. The river became narrow, the banks became wide. Now, where the Barguzin River goes, the whole place is called a valley, and there is no richer region than this valley. When the Tungus and Barguts came to the valley, the river was already running to Baikal, instead of the former wide river, a narrow one flowed, along which the hunters descended to the sea. The valley managed to overgrow with taiga, animals and birds bred, and it became more beautiful than before the appearance of the river. because then the Buryats and Russians came to these places, and my grandfather settled here.
They also lived here in a bar, for example, Karlych (M.K. Küchelbecker) was very fond of such stories, he took them from me on paper. I just don't know if they went into books. He wrote a lot here and under Muravyov went around all the villages. It is a pity that I lived an illiterate life, otherwise I even read his books before my death. In God, he did not believe very much and did not hope for the king, he was more with our peasants here, and thanks to him for that - he treated him for ailments. It was fitting for him to tell such stories about antiquity, and he did not tell us that we were sinners before God.

Primorsky ridge

From the history of the development of the Barguzin valley
What our Russian peasant couldn't bear, what he just didn't experience. My grandfather came here, my father lived here. I remember them, I myself have been living here for more than a hundred years. If we calculate how much we, the Elshins, have traveled here, how many mountains we have crossed, then, probably, it would be possible during this time Earth walk around, and from the forest that our ancestors uprooted, it would be possible to build a second Moscow.
When my grandfather came here, there was a continuous taiga, there were only small circles of land under the arable fields, and now, look, there are such fields all around that you can’t cover with an eye. Because the land is dear to us here, because it smells of the sweat of our ancestors, watered with their blood and tears.

Barguzinsky Bay, Baikal

Where did the name "Baikal" come from?
Russians have long heard that somewhere in the middle of Siberia there is a huge lake. But no one knew what it was called. When the Russian merchants, and then the Cossacks crossed the Urals and began to approach the large rivers Ob and Yenisei, they learned that people live around the lake, which boils day and night. Those Russians found out that that lake is rich in fish, and various animals walk along the shores, and such expensive ones that are nowhere else in the world. The Cossacks and merchants began to rush to that sea-lake, they walked, did not sleep, did not feed the horses, did not know when the day ends and when the night begins. Everyone wanted to be the first to get to the lake and see what it is like and why it boils without rest.

Those merchants and Cossacks walked to the sea for a long time, several years, many of them died along the way, but the living nevertheless reached and saw the Shaman stone in front of them. He blocked their way, closed the light. You can’t turn away from it either to the right or to the left, there are such mountains around that you throw your head back - the hat flies off, but you can’t see the top. Cossacks with merchants twirled around the Shaman-stone and thought that they couldn’t get to the sea, but they themselves heard how it rustled, heaved up and beat against the rocks.
The merchants grieved, the Cossacks grieved, you see, their whole long road was lost not for a pinch of snuff. They drove back, pitched the tent and began to think hard about how they could cross the Shaman-stone or go around the mountains. They cannot go around the mountains - the sea will swallow them. So the Cossacks stopped with the merchants and began to live near the sea-lake, but they would not get ashore in any way.
They had to live here for a long time, maybe their bones would have rotted there, but then, fortunately for them, an unknown person approached them and called himself a Buryat. The Russians began to ask him to lead them ashore, circle the sea and show them the way to land where they had not yet been. The Buryat did not say anything to them, he folded his palms into a tube, then raised them to his face and went into the forest. The Russians did not detain him, they released him with God. Again, the merchants and Cossacks were saddened, how to proceed, not to escape, apparently, their death. So they lived for a long time, you never know, no one counted days or months. The merchants and the Cossacks grew emaciated and haggard; worse than before, grief seized them. They wanted to gather their last strength and go back, but then the Buryat came again and brought his son, he said:
- I can’t get around Baigal with you - I’ve become old, I can’t go around the Shaman Stone - the years have long gone, take your son, his eyes are bright, and his legs are deer.
The old man left for the taiga, and the son led the Russians on a new road, brought them to the seashore and said:
- Baigal.
The Russians asked him what it was, he answered them:
- In our opinion, it means a fiery place, here there used to be a continuous fire, then the earth collapsed and became the sea. Since then we have been calling our sea Baigal.
The Russians liked this name, and they also began to call this sea Baikal.

Ushkany Islands

Who can know when that was? Well, no one seems to remember. Many years have passed since then, during this time mountains have grown on the plains, deep lakes have spilled on the lowlands, a forest has grown on stones. At that time, Baikal stood calmly, so quietly that the water did not move like a mirror, the smooth surface shone from coast to coast. Sometimes only early in the morning, at dawn, the fish splashed. But Baikal is not angry about that, he loves different living creatures and, like a father, gives her food.

How long did Baikal live in silence and bliss, only he knows about that. And suddenly, unexpectedly, a terrible storm fell on Baikal. Baikal has never seen such a storm before. The water of Baikal was covered with terrible bubbles; Old Baikal got angry at the storm and said:
“Don’t anger me, you can’t defeat the old man, you can’t disperse my bright water around, you can’t drain my home.
And the storm did not want to listen to the old man. Know walks for himself and walks along the crests of the waves, which have already risen from the height of the rocks.
“You can’t cope with my strength, old man,” says the storm, “I raise the seas and oceans, bring down the taiga, wriggle the everlasting forest, destroy rocks, and I’ll splash you like a puddle, drain you like a drop.
After such impudent words, Baikal became furious. Evil gives strength. Baikal straightened his mighty shoulders, he remembered his sons and daughters, gained strength in his heroic chest and let's fight the storm. Rock after rock he began to erect around himself, mountains began to rise behind the rocks. The storm sees that jokes are bad with the old man and it’s not so easy to defeat him, she called on the winds of Kultuk and Barguzin to help herself. The strength of the storm immediately increased. Then Baikal went to the trick and began to block the path of the storm away from the coast. From the bottom, rocks began to rise, so many of them rose above the water that they began to obscure the sun. The storm hits the rocks with all its force and rolls back, it is already weak coming to the shore.
This is how the rocks appeared in Baikal in spite of the storms, to the delight of the shores they protect. Well, since the rocks appeared, then they were covered with sand and silt. From year to year, the rocks overgrown and grew so much that they turned into islands. This is one island and was nicknamed Ushkanim. Why was it named like that? I will tell you about this now. This island was more successful than others, and a forest soon appeared on it: a pine forest, a birch forest, a listvyanka, an aspen forest, and there is no name for the shrub. So many berries will be born here that it will be enough to cook berry jelly for all the Baikal water. The island is also rich in wild rosemary and flowers. In autumn on the island, the aroma takes your breath away.

The island has its own climate, its own weather, and there is nowhere else like it around Baikal. When autumn is around, everything withers and freezes everywhere, everything blooms on the island, wherever the eye can see, everywhere is green: the berries ripen, the wild rosemary blooms a second time, blossoms. Ushkans saw about such an island - it means, in Siberian, hares - and they threw a herd onto the island. What are the shorts for, and when necessary, they swim and get on the island. There were so many ushkans that there was nowhere to step.
But after all, a person does not sleep, he is also cunning. He found out that nature is rich on the island, and made his way to it. People were amazed at how many Ushkans live here. So they called the island Ushkanim. Then the Ushkans also divorced on small islands, which stand next to the large ones. Now these small islands are also called Ushkany.
Many years ago, our grandfathers and great-grandfathers wanted to settle in these Ushkany Islands, but they did not fit in: winter and summer fit here at the wrong time, as around Baikal. The peasants wanted to set up a household, but there was not enough urine, and there was no need for that.
From time immemorial, people have been protecting the Ushkany Islands, and the hunters themselves preserve the living creatures there. The old people told how a long time ago several thieves came to the island to harass Ushkans. The hunters among themselves agreed to hire an old man to keep all living things on the island. The old man lived on the island for more than a hundred years, thieved all the thieves, punished his children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren: "Just as a fox does not hunt near its hole, so you take care of all living things around you. Without nature, a person is naked, and you cannot live naked for a long time."

Suvo
The old people who said how the name of the village Suvo came from, which is not far from Barguzin. One elderly Tungus explained the name in his own way. The Tungus in the upper reaches of the Barguzin do not live forever. Long before them, various peoples roamed here, but no one remembers them. Those distant peoples left the Barguzin Valley in that old time, when the Chuds first began to come here, and then the Tungus began to migrate, the Orochons and Barguts. After them, the Russians began to appear. But that was quite recently, about three hundred years ago.
The Tungus gave the name to rivers, mountains and places most of all here, because there were more of them here than other peoples. There are many stories about the name of the village of Suwo, but the most true of them is this. Once upon a time, many Tungus lived near Lake Kotokel. They lived around the lake, fished, beat animals, and so lived for years. The Tungus were very prolific in those years, because the cold was strong, and they love the cold. When the warming began, then they began to die out, clan after clan completely descended from the earth. Heat, after all, multiplies any infection, and there was nothing to be saved from it before.
At a time when many Tungus were born, it became crowded to live around Kotokel, they began to gradually and slowly rise up the Barguzin. The Barguzin road is wide, the Barguzin has a lot of tributaries, and the Tungus dispersed along these tributaries. They are hardy people, they will soon know the place, the Tungus will never get lost in the taiga, they will get out of any wilderness right where they need to go. They have such a sense, they know where what grows, they smell where animals are found, where one should go hunting, and where there is nothing to break legs in vain. Everyone here knows about their deeds, for which the Tungus is respected here.

Here is one such Tungus clan who walked for many days along the left bank of the Barguzin and saw a path that stretches along a tributary uphill. That taiga path led the Tungus to the mountains. The Tungus do not like steppes and swamps, what they do there, they did not deal with livestock at that time. At the very ascent up the mountain, the Tungus stopped, set up yurts and went to check where the path goes further. Soon the Tungus returned and told their princeling that the taiga path breaks off here not far from the mountain, and then goes the dense taiga, where, apparently, no human foot has set foot. The prince thought and said:
— Suwo.
It means the end of the road in Tunguska. All the Tungus who stood near the prince repeated at once: "Suvo, suvo, suvo." Since then, who knows how many years have passed, but the name Suvo stuck to this place. Even before the arrival of the Russians, all the Tungus said that the Suvo River and the place of Suvo were found and first settled by Prince Shoningo, who was famous among all people for his strength and courage. In memory of the Tungus, in the very place where the prince once stood with his Tungus, a Russian village grew up.
The village was founded over two hundred years ago. Here is how it was. Two Cossacks Misserkeev and Kozulin escaped from the Verkhneudinsky prison. The Cossack chieftain did not like them, they refused to serve him, to work for the tsar's treasury. So they took it and left. How long did the Cossacks walk through the taiga, but they ended up on the Barguzin River, and then they met with the Belovodsk Tungus. The Tungus advised the Russian Cossacks to settle in the Suvo area near the river itself. The river then flowed stormy, there were so many fish in it, even take it with your hands. Suvo Misserkeyev and Kozulin liked the area, they entered into relatives with the Tungus and began to build here, raise children. The peasants lived their lives, they did not bow to anyone here, they considered themselves masters.
The good news went for a walk around the wide world, that Cossacks settled far beyond Barguzin and live happily ever after. A rumor about them reached the Zaudinsk Cossacks, and they pulled one after another to Suvo. The village began to grow day by day and grew so quickly that there were few banks of the river, the peasants went to build on the slopes of the hills. Suva grain fields turned green, herds of horses and herds of cows appeared. The people lived where the taiga had just rustled and the wolves howled. This is the history of the Russian village of Suvo!

About the pedigree of the Barguzin Buryats
Our Barguzin Buryats live in great friendship with us. We speak Buryat, they speak Russian with us. Our ancestors knew well where the Buryats came from. It was given. All Barguzins talk about that antiquity in this way. Here, listen.
From time immemorial, our great-grandfathers and grandfathers also said that these places were inhabited long before the arrival of Russians, when birch trees did not grow here, by Buryats. All our Buryats come from Lena, and now their relatives live there. Buryat Bukhe Savonov, who lives right behind the Ina, tells to this day: the sixteenth generation of Buryats was born from those ancestors who were the first to come to Barguzin. The Savonov family now has hundreds of generations. All the Buryats who live near Karolik, in Yasy, descended from the Bargut clan. Their ancestors first lived on the Angara, then they moved to the Lena, and from the Lena they got to the Upper Angara, then they came to Vitim, they migrated from Vitim to Barguzin. So it used to be, the old people did not tell in vain.
I remember how my other good neighbor, Badma Dylgyrov, used to say about his relatives, so he kept almost everyone on his mind until the tenth generation of his old people. Now there are few such storytellers left. Those who are more instructive, but have received a diploma, those about the Buryat offspring, probably read in books. And we, the old people, all hope for the memory of our old man.

The owner of Olkhon
There is a terrible cave on the island of Olkhon. It's called Shaman. And it is terrible because the ruler of the Mongols once lived there - Gegen Burkhan, brother of Erlen Khan, the ruler of the underworld. Both brothers constantly terrified the inhabitants of the island with their cruelty. Even the shamans were afraid of the formidable rulers, especially Gegen-Burkhan himself. The islanders knew that if this heartless and merciless ruler got out into the world, then expect trouble: the blood of many innocents would be shed. Many common people suffered from it.
And he lived at the same time and on the same island, on Mount Izhimei, the wise hermit Khan-guta-babai. He did not recognize the power of Gegen-Burkhan, and he did not want to know himself, he never descended into his possessions. Many have seen how he kindled a fire on the top of the mountain at night and roasted a ram for dinner, but there was no way there - the mountain was considered impregnable. The formidable owner of Olkhon tried to subjugate the wise hermit, but retreated: no matter how much he sent soldiers there, the mountain would not let anyone in. Anyone who dared to climb this mountain fell dead from there, because huge stones fell with a roar on the heads of uninvited guests. So everyone left Khan-guta-babai alone.
It so happened that among one islander, Gegen-Burkhan executed her husband, a young herdsman, because, as it seemed to the lord, he disrespectfully looked at him.
The young woman hit the ground with grief, burst into burning tears, and then, inflamed with fierce hatred for Gegen-Burkhan, she began to think about how to save her native tribe from the cruel ruler. And she decided to go to the mountains and tell Khan-guta-babai about the severe suffering of the inhabitants of the island. Let him intercede for them and punish Gegen-Burkhan.
The young widow set off. And surprisingly, where the most dexterous warriors fell, she rose easily and freely. So she safely reached the top of Mount Izhimey, and not a single stone fell on her head. After listening to the brave, freedom-loving islander, Khan-guta-babai said to her:
- Okay, I'll help you and your tribe. And you go back now and warn all the islanders about this.
The delighted girl descended from Mount Izhimey and did what the wise hermit had ordered her to do.
And Khan-guta-babai himself, on one of the moonlit nights, descended to the land of Olkhon on a light white-foam cloud. He fell to the ground with his ear and heard the groans of the innocent victims ruined by Gegen-Burkhan.
- It is true that the land of Olkhon is all saturated with the blood of the unfortunate, - Khan-guta-babai was indignant and made a promise, - Gegen-Burkhan will not be on the island. But you must help me with this. Let a handful of Olkhon soil turn red when I need it!"
And in the morning I went to the Shaman cave. The enraged ruler went out to meet the hermit sage and asked him hostilely:
- Why complained to me?
Khan-guta-babai calmly replied:
- I want you to leave the island.
Gegen-Burkhan boiled even more:
- Do not be this! I'm the boss here! And I will deal with you.
- I'm not afraid of you, - said Khan-guta-babai. He looked around and added - There is power on you too!
Gegen-Burkhan also looked around and gasped: not far away, frowning islanders stood in a dense wall.
“So you want to settle the matter with a battle?” cried Gegen-Burkhan.
“I didn’t say that,” Khan-guta-babai said again calmly. “Why shed blood? Let's fight better, so it will be peaceful!
- Let's!
Gegen-Burkhan fought with Khan-guta-babai for a long time, but none of them could achieve an advantage - both turned out to be real heroes, equal in strength. With that, they parted ways. We agreed to decide the case the next day by lot. It was agreed that everyone would take a cup, fill it with earth, and at night, before going to bed, each one would put his cup at his feet. And whoever's land turns red overnight - to leave the island and wander to another place, and whoever's land does not change color - to remain in possession of the island.
The next evening, according to the agreement, they sat side by side on the felt laid in the Shaman's cave, placed a wooden cup at their feet, filled them with earth, and immediately went to bed.
And then the night came, and with it came the insidious underground shadows of Erlen Khan, on whose help his cruel brother strongly hoped. The shadows noticed that the earth was colored in the cup at Gegen-Burkhan. They immediately carried this cup to the feet of Khan-guta-babai, and his cup to the feet of Gegen-burkhan. But the blood of the ruined turned out to be stronger than the shadows of Erlen Khan, and when a bright ray of the morning sun burst into the cave, the earth was in the cup of Khan-guta-babai went out, and the earth in the cup of Gegen-Burkhan turned red. And at that moment they both woke up.
Gegen-Burkhan looked at his cup and sighed heavily:
“Well, then, you own the island,” he said to Khan-guta-babai, “and I will have to wander to another place.
And then he ordered his Mongols to load property onto camels and dismantle yurts. And in the evening, Gegen-Burkhan ordered everyone to go to bed. And at night, the Mongols, with their camels and all their belongings, caught up by the powerful shadows of Erlen Khan, were quickly transferred beyond Lake Baikal. In the morning they woke up already on the other side.
But many poor Mongols remained to live on the island. It was from them that the Olkhon Buryats, who inhabit this island today, originated.

trunk rock
In the distant past, on the shores of the Glorious Sea - Baikal - it was very warm. Large unprecedented trees grew here and huge animals were found: giant rhinos, saber-toothed tigers, cave bears and shaggy giants - mammoths. The lingering trumpet sounds of mammoths shook the mountains. Mammoths were considered the largest and most powerful among all the animals on earth, but by nature they were modest, peaceful.
And only one of the Baikal mammoths was distinguished by a strong temper, exorbitant bragging and arrogance. He always walked alone, important and proud, and woe was to those who met on his way. Smaller animals he grabbed with his long trunk and threw into the bushes, and those who were larger, he hooked with thick tusks and threw them to the ground. For fun, the boastful mammoth uprooted giant trees, upended huge boulders and blocked the rivers running to Baikal.
More than once the leader of the mammoths tried to reason with the braggart:
"Come to your senses, obstinate, do not offend weak animals, do not destroy trees in vain, do not muddy the river, otherwise you will not get well." The arrogant listened to the speeches of the old mammoth, and he continued to do it in his own way. And once he completely unbelted. “Why are you teaching me everything!” he roared at the leader, “what are you frightening me for! Yes, I’m the strongest here, yes, if you want, not only the rivers, I’ll throw stones at the whole Baikal, like a puddle!”
The leader was horrified, the rest of the mammoths waved their trunks at the bouncer. Baikal also stirred, dousing the shore with a wave and hiding an unkind smile in his gray mustache.
But the dispersed mammoth did not see anything. He fled, plunged his tusks into the rock, lifted it up to throw it far into the sea, and suddenly the rock became heavy, heavy. The tusks broke from the exorbitant weight and, together with the rock, fell into the water. Here the mammoth roared out of grief, extended its long trunk to the water to get its tusks, and froze like that, petrified forever.
Since then, a huge rock has been standing on the shore of Lake Baikal, hanging over the water like a trunk. And now people call it that - Trunk rock.

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SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
http://ozerobaikal.info
Baikal // Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron: In 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional). - St. Petersburg, 1890-1907.
http://www.photosight.ru/
Galaziy G.I. Baikal in questions and answers. — 1989.
Grafov S. V., Kolotilo L. G., Potashko A. E. Pilot of Lake Baikal. Admiralty No. 1007. - St. Petersburg: GUNiO, 1993.
Grushko Ya. M. Baikal: Guide / Prof. Ya. M. Grushko. - Irkutsk: East Siberian Book Publishing House, 1967. - 252 p. — 1,500 copies. (in trans.)
Gusev O. K., Ustinov S. K. In northern Baikal and the Baikal region / Photo illustrations by O. Gusev, V. Lomakin, M. Mineev, L. Tyulina. - M .: Physical culture and sport, 1966. - 104 p. - (In native spaces). - 17,000 copies.
Gusev O. K. Sacred Baikal. Protected lands of Baikal. — M.: Agropromizdat, 1986. — 184 p.
Kozhov M. M. Biology of Lake Baikal / Ed. ed. G. I. Galaziy. - M.: Publishing House of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR, 1962. - 316 p.
Kolotilo L. G. Baikal // Marine Encyclopedic Dictionary. - St. Petersburg: Shipbuilding, 1991. - T. 1. - S. 108.
Pilot and physical-geographical sketch of Lake Baikal / Ed. F. K. Drizhenko. - St. Petersburg: Edition of the Main Hydrographic Department, 1908. - 443 p.
Rossolimo L. L. Baikal. — M.: Nauka, 1966. — 170 p. — (Popular science series). — 20,000 copies. (reg.)
Taliev D.N. Baikal: Biologo-geographical essay. — M.; Irkutsk: Ogiz, 1933. - 64 p.
Tivanenko A. V. Around Baikal. - Ulan-Ude: Buryat book publishing house, 1979.

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