Central Vietnam: Hoi An and Michon. My Son Temple Complex. Da Nang and the Marble Mountains
The word "mishon" is translated as " beautiful mountain". The complex itself is located not on a mountain, but in a valley, but the mountains surrounding it, overgrown with impenetrable jungle, really represent an unforgettable sight.
Ruins of a Hindu temple complex
The ruins of My Son are fragments of an abandoned Hindu temple complex from the time of the Champa kingdom, in the past located on the territory of present-day Vietnam. The ruins of the My Son temple complex are located in the jungle of Quang Nam province, about 50 km southeast of another historical place country - the city of Hoi an.
Between IV and XIII centuries. in this area of Vietnam existed unique civilization, the spiritual foundations of which were closely connected with Hinduism. Chams, or tyams, were originally Hindus, worshiped Shiva and considered themselves followers of Shaivism.
For many years political capital Chams was the city of Simhaputra - lion fortress, today its remains are in the village of Chakieu.
In the 5th century Cham king Bhadravakman I decided to find a secluded place to build a personal temple to the glory of the Hindu god Shiva. Such a place was found in an intermountain valley 2 km wide not far from the village of Mishon standing here, which gave the name to the entire temple complex. Gradually, Michon, located near Simhaputra, became the largest cultural and religious center of the Cham state, and also served as the burial place of the Cham rulers, remaining so until the very end of Champa's existence.
There were a huge number of temples and other religious buildings here: Shiva and Vishnu temples, as well as royal tombs. Those close associates who participated in the construction of this temple complex were not forgotten either: there was also a place for their burials in this vast territory. There are no identical tombs, each has many differences and characteristic details. Steles were installed in each tomb, on which the names, dates of life and descriptions of the exploits and conquests of the kings were carved. The inscriptions are similar to those of modern Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. They were made almost a thousand years ago, but are well preserved to this day.
Monumental Cham towers were erected on a square or rectangular base. Each temple consisted of three "steps". The first is the basis representing the world of people. The second is the tower itself, representing the spirit world. The third is the top of the tower, usually in the form of a lotus, representing the area between the two worlds. The top was crowned with a sculptural image of a person, tree, bird or animal.
Michon's builders drew their inspiration almost exclusively from India in the form of the triad of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Shiva was the central figure of the cult - his images can be found on any of the remaining Cham structures.
The temples of Mishon were repeatedly subjected to changes, more and more temples and shrines were added to them. They are characterized by a unique architectural Cham-Indian style. In one building, one can notice the presence of stylistic details of a certain era. This is because each temple was dedicated to a particular deity or rulers of different dynasties.
Starting from the IX century. Champa enters into a long series of wars with the Angkor Empire and the Vietnamese Dai Viet.
After the 10th century there is a sharp turn in the views of the Champa on faith, and the religion began to approach Islam more closely. All their temples and found relics indicate that the Chams were Hindus, but later buildings prove the presence of Islam in their lives.
In the XIII century. the state of Champa was completely destroyed by the Viet, only small groups of Cham remained, who still live in the mountains of central and northern Vietnam.
The whole complex of Michon's religious buildings is divided into several groups, the structures in which have no names and are indicated with Latin letters. The main buildings are in three groups - A, B-C-D and E-F. The ruins marked G, H and L are free standing monuments.
In the 1960s stone structures became a hiding place for the guerrillas of the Vietnamese resistance forces. In August 1969, American B-52 bombers bombarded Michon for a whole week, almost completely destroying these most valuable monuments of world history.
After the fall of the state of Champa, these buildings were forgotten for several centuries.
Only in 1889, French archaeologists accidentally found out about these buildings, compiled their description and even came up with a name - the Valley of the Royal Dynasty. They proceeded from the fact that in the later period of its existence Michon also became a place of worship for the royal dynasties of Champa.
During the American bombing, about 50 out of 70 buildings were almost completely destroyed. Huge bomb craters are still visible today.
Most of the surviving sculptures of dancers and Hindu gods were transferred by the Vietnamese to the Cham Sculpture Museum in Da Nang.
In 1999, Michon was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Overly enthusiastic lovers of antiquities sometimes compare Michon with the Angkor Wat complex in Cambodia and with ancient capital Thailand's Ayutthaya, but the scale of Michon is much more modest. Despite the rather large total area and of great historical significance, there are very few ruins here. Yes, and little is left of them, except for a pile of stones overgrown with grass. But we should not forget that Michon became a religious center under King Bhadravarman at the end of the 4th century. and remained so until the 13th century, that is, for eight centuries, while the Cambodian Angkor performed similar functions for only three hundred years.
Michon consists of three main areas that form a single complex 70 religious buildings, of which only 25 survived in varying degrees of destruction.
The first is a relatively complete temple complex of a dozen buildings. They symbolize the different stages of worship of Shiva and are associated with the movement of the sun across the sky. Carvings of gods and various symbols of Hinduism have been preserved on the walls.
The third is the place where restoration has been carried out or is still underway. The difference in color, texture and age of the bricks of the iconic towers is striking. The shape of the buildings has been preserved, but the materials used are modern. However, all work on the restoration of the Michon temple complex is carried out as carefully as possible.
Michon's buildings form groups, most of which are surrounded by a square wall-antarmandala with gopuras-gates. Each group has a separate koshagrhu building - a repository of ritual utensils and several small sanctuaries dedicated to various gods.
The building materials were burnt brick and sandstone.
Dozens of lingams, symbols of the divine generative power, which have been given a phallic form, have been preserved almost intact. Among them is the most important lingam - a symbol of childbirth and worship of the god Shiva.
In the XX century. the restoration of Michon's temples began, continuing to this day. As the Vietnamese say, it will last for more than a dozen years. Temples are trying to be restored using the same materials from which they were originally built. The bricks that are still in place are not touched. All pulled out are neatly folded to the side, so that one day they can be returned to their place, observing ancient technology which is still largely a mystery.
The reconstruction is carried out according to the surviving drawings and photographs taken by a French expedition at the end of the 19th century.
general information
Location : Central Vietnam.
Administrative affiliation : Zuisuyen County, Quang Nam Province.
Based: IV c.
abandoned: XIII c.
On the UNESCO World Heritage List : since 1999
Languages: Vietnamese, chamy, kuoy (kuoityam), tho (thomon), poong, muong, katu, bru, english, french.
Ethnic composition : viets (throw), tyams, tho, muongs, katu, bru.
Religions: Buddhism, cult of the spirit of ancestors, animism.
Currency unit : Vietnamese dong.
Numbers
Square: about 12.5 km2.
Height above sea level : maximum 51 m.
The buildings: the total number is about 78.
Climate and weather
Subequatorial monsoon.
Rain season: May-October.
In April 2017, Vietnamese archaeologists discovered an ancient road and the remains of another temple underground. ancient road 8 m wide is located behind tower K, between two parallel walls 0.6 m wide each. Parts of the walls made of terracotta remained intact. According to archaeologists, only members of the royal family and high-ranking officials who worked in the royal court used this road, and on special occasions: for example, when rituals were held in the Michon temple complex.
Until now, among specialists there is no certainty about how exactly the bricks from which the temples are built are fastened. In many places, the buildings seem almost monolithic. There are various hypotheses about this. One speaks of a solution based on vegetable glue. Another claims that the building was originally built from unbaked bricks, and then all this was fired. At first glance, this will seem unlikely, since the lower rows of bricks in this case should be heavily deformed. But we must take into account the patience and diligence of the builders: they tightly fitted the bricks to each other and then fired them - row after row, in turn, so that the bricks hardened and securely fixed in their place. During restoration, it is not yet possible to fix new bricks in the old masonry as firmly, even following the ancient technology.
Museums have been created inside relatively entire temples. Among the exhibits are unexploded and defused American bombs found among the ruins.
The complex was built around the fourth century. At the end of the 20th century, it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once upon a time, back in the period of its foundation, this place was the capital of Champa. The inhabitants of this large empire lived not only in the territory of the present ruins, but also far beyond them. The Chams came here from Java and Indonesia, and were the first people to bring Hinduism to Vietnam. A huge temple complex was erected by the Chams in honor of Shiva.
The name "Michon" literally translates as "beautiful mountain". Everyone who has ever visited the temple was convinced of the appropriateness and full conformity of such a name. The ruins are surrounded by jungle and high mountain ranges. Even from the cracks in the walls of the once majestic building, numerous, sometimes amazing plants grow today.
Naturally, during construction, there were no cracks or chips. To increase the strength of the Chams, they used unique technologies that few people can use at present. The walls of the temple were built of brick, created during low temperatures, therefore, in its structure, it was soft. It was tightly stacked on top of each other, creating thick, strong walls. After the construction of the entire structure, it was burned with fire for a certain amount of time so that the material would hold together and become a single monolith. Surprisingly, bonding materials were never used in the construction.
The locals believed that Shiva knew about their desires, which he always fulfilled. As a rule, the Chams asked for an increase in the birth rate, as they thought that their strength was in numbers. This was due to the fact that the people came from afar and were not sure of their protection, for which more people were needed.
Protecting your territory has always been the overriding goal of the Chams. Many enemies gathered around the empire, among which were even the Chinese. In the 11th century, the Vietnamese nevertheless captured the territory of the Chams, moving them far to the south. However, Michon Temple was under their protection for several more centuries.
For many years, Michonne was hidden in the jungle from prying eyes, so very few people knew about his existence. The situation changed in 1889, when the French found the temple complex. By that time, almost ruins remained from it. However, French researchers immediately realized that they were dealing with an old holy place and soon came to grips with the restoration of the surviving buildings.
In 1969, the Vietnam War began, which brought to naught all the efforts of the restorers. It only took the bombers a week to level the sanctuary. However, some buildings managed to survive, and have survived to this day.
Michon architecture
The Michon complex consists of three areas suitable for tourist purposes. The first zone is represented by the fully preserved main temple, which consists of about ten small buildings. The buildings represent the stages of the development of the empire, the worship of Shiva. Today, this is the most impressive and interesting thing left of the temple.
The second zone suffered the most from the bombs, so there is nothing much to see there yet. In fact, scientists have not even begun to explore this place.
And finally, the third zone. This place is still being restored. But already now you can see the differences in the color, texture and age of the bricks. Compared to the first zone, this part is a modern temple building, made in the same way as during the construction of the Chams.
The history of mankind is such that, simultaneously with the discovery of new historical monuments, there is a destruction of similar to them. Michon did not escape such a fate.
Tourists
The temple is located in Vietnam not far from another representative of the world heritage - the city of Hoi An. You can get here from the nearest town of Da Nang. Entrance to the territory will cost about 7 dollars.
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The province of Quang Nam in the center of Vietnam is known throughout the world for the unique My Son archaeological complex, which in the past served as religious center ancient state tyamov. Once upon a time there were many shrines and temples, and today a couple of dozen buildings made of sandstone and baked bricks remind of its former grandeur. The object is recognized as a monument cultural heritage of world importance and annually attracts thousands of travelers interested in the secrets of past centuries.
A bit of history
The first information about the complex dates back to the 7th-8th centuries. According to legend, it was here that the capital of the Champa Empire, which existed about 1.5 thousand years ago, was once located. Scientists believe that the founder was King Bhadravarmanu I, who decided to create a “Holy Valley” near the city in honor of the greatness of the deity Shiva, and also as a memory of his reign. For a long time no one knew about Michon, they found it only in the 20th century by French archaeologists who were excavating near Da Nang.
Due to the Vietnam Wars, the "Holy Land" was seriously damaged, and in the 60s. it was miraculously not destroyed by American bombing. But the city managed to survive, and in 1975 ancient monument it was decided to restore. To do this, for several years, the inhabitants of the surrounding lands cleared the war-torn jungle from mines and bombs with their own hands.
The restoration took about 15 years, and in 1996 the grand opening of the complex took place. And 3 years later it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.
What to see
The ancient tyams were truly a great people. With their incredible efforts, they erected monumental buildings, and in their arrangement there is a clear system that characterizes the culture, worldview and beliefs of a bygone civilization. Initially, there were over 70 buildings on the territory of the city, but by now just over 20 remain.
Pagodas, temples and towers are decorated with unique patterns and designs carved by ancient craftsmen. It is also amazing that each element is created by hand.
The narrow passages and paths once traversed by the inhabitants of the capital Champa are now used for guided tours. Walking along them, you can see several sculptures of Hindu deities, as if watching tourists with their stone eyes. And the location of the place among the fog-covered hills and dense jungle only adds to its mystery and mystery.
Next to the complex there is a museum that tells about the history of the Tyam empire, and in cultural center, also nearby, hosts themed folklore events.
Practical information
The complex is located in Quang Nam province. The best way to get here is with excursion group from Da Nang, which is about 80 km from Quang Nam, but you can also get there by taxi or rented motorbike. There are signs leading to the ruins. GPS coordinates: 15.791204; 108.107823.
Ticket price: 100,000 VND - for adults and children. Excursion from Da Nang - approximately 180,000 VND (including ticket). Prices on the page are for November 2016.
Michon are three groups of ancient temples built in the seventh century near present-day Da Nang. More precisely, this is what remains of the shrines. The ruins are located in a picturesque area, surrounded by jungle. There are always enough people who want to touch the heritage of antiquity.
Once on the territory of the complex there were about 70 temples and towers - those few fragments that have survived to this day remind of their former greatness. In places, fragments of towers and stone carvings have survived - you will see fragments of massive columns and walls.
History of the temple complex
Not much is known about this complex. It existed during the reign of the Champa Empire in the 7th century. Once on the site of the ruins there was a large principality, but after its collapse, the shrines fell into disrepair.
Serious damage to the complex was caused by the Americans during the Vietnam War. In 1999, UNESCO recognized the ancient ruins world heritage and took the remains of the complex under guard. In the same period, restoration work began - they are moving very slowly.
What to see?
According to the locations of the ruins and their area, one can imagine the grandeur of the temple complex. From one group of ruins you will move on to the second. In the third group of buildings, something has already been restored, the towers are covered with canopies that protect them from water.
Huge craters left by exploding bombs still remain on the grass today. Guides say that American aircraft launched a massive air strike on the area when they received information that partisans were hiding in the temple complex.
You can wander among the ruins, photograph them and walk along the stone-paved paths deep into the jungle.
How to get there?
The temple complex is located 70 kilometers from Da Nang. It is most convenient to get to it on a rented scooter or bus. The one way trip will take about two hours.
If you do not like to travel on your own, order a group bus tour. A visit to the Michon complex is free, on the way to the ruins you can linger and watch an entertainment show - the Vietnamese arrange it for tourists several times a day.
The Cambodian shrine of Angkor Wat is known all over the world and tens of thousands of tourists annually come to Cambodia to visit the most famous and largest temple complex in the world.
But not everyone knows about the existence of another temple complex, which is equated in importance in the Hindu religion with the famous Angkor Wat. This is My Son - the temple complex of the Champa Empire, which is located in central Vietnam.
Unfortunately, Michon's temples and towers, which stood for over 1000 years, were mercilessly destroyed by American bombing during the Vietnam War in 1969. 50 out of 70 buildings. Almost completely.
No words...
2. The ruins of the My Son temple complex are located in the jungle of Quang Nam province, about 50 km southeast of Hoi An city.
Lost in the jungle for more than 4 centuries, Michon was accidentally discovered by a group of French archaeologists in 1885.
In 1999, Michon was included in the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List and active research work and work on the arrangement of the complex for the possibility of visiting tourists. 
3. Between the IV and XIII centuries. in this region of Vietnam, a unique civilization developed, the spiritual foundations of which were closely connected with Hinduism.
Chams, or chams ̣ (cham - in Vietnamese, and the Russian pronunciation varies) were originally Hindus, worshiped Shiva and considered themselves followers of Shaivism, but after the 10th century something changed, and their religion became more like Islam. All their temples and relics found indicate that the Chams were Hindus, later buildings prove the presence of Islam in their life.
Michon was the capital of the Champa empire from the 4th to the 12th centuries. 
4. How did Michon come about?
In the 5th century, the famous Cham king Bhadravakman I decided to find a quiet, secluded place in order to build a temple to praise the cult of Hindu deities. The temple complex of Mytho was built in a ravine between the mountains, not far from the village of the same name.
5. About 70 structures were erected - temples and towers dedicated to the gods Shiva and Vishnu, as well as royal tombs. Steles were installed in each tomb, on which were engraved the names, dates of life and achievements of kings and members of the royal court who had the merit of building this temple complex.
Subsequently, Michon also became a place of worship for the Cham royal dynasties. 
6. The most famous tower, 24 meters high, was decorated with sculptures of lions and elephants. It was destroyed during the war in 1969 by American bombing. During these bombardments, 50 of the 70 temples described in the first half of the 20th century by archaeologists from French Institute Far East. 
7. Michon was a religious shrine until the 13th century, then the state of Champa was completely destroyed by the modern Viet, only small groups remained that still live in the mountains of central and northern Vietnam. Accordingly, these temples were almost forgotten 
8. According to some researchers, the Michon sanctuary was the spiritual center of the ancient Cham state, similar to what is now preserved in Cambodia - famous temples Angkor Wat. The local temples and towers are really very similar to Angkor Wat, and the images of Indian gods are clearly visible in the architecture. 
9. There are quite a lot of images of gods, they are different, and some of them do not have faces 
10. When looking closely at the figures, one gets the feeling that the faces were "extracted" from the walls, replacing them with "dummy" 
11. However, this applies not only to absent persons 
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14. Many tombs can now be accessed inside 
15. Some of them managed to survive even after the American bombing, some were restored 
16. There are no identical tombs here. Each one is different from the next. 
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18. Now all the temple buildings of Michon are almost completely destroyed, only their foundations remain. The complex consists of several groups of temples, but only one of them has clear features. The towers are clearly guessed in it, and the buildings have been preserved almost in their original form. 
19. During Vietnam War The US Air Force bombed them mercilessly, because. the American command had suggestions that the headquarters of the Vietnamese partisans was located in Michon.
Most of the surviving figures of dancers and Hindu gods were moved to the Cham Sculpture Museum in Da Nang. 
20. Some figures can be seen not only in Da Nang, but also here in My Son.
Several former tombs are equipped in the exposition of figures and sculptures found on the territory of Michon 
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24. A lot of different lingams have been preserved in this architecture, including the most important one, as a symbol of childbirth and worship of the god Shiva.
About lingams I am in a separate story 
25. There are very few tourists in Michon, which made me incredibly happy as a photographer.
It rarely happens nowadays that you can easily take pictures in such ruins without crowds of people 
26. main tower Michonne 
27. In addition to the central group of temples, some towers overgrown with vegetation can be found at some distance 
28. There are 6 such groups in total. 
29. Indian ornaments on the remains of temple walls 
30. What else is worth noting is that despite the fact that the site is under the protection of UNESCO, you can walk everywhere. you can touch everything. No fences, fences, prohibitions, etc. 
31. It can be seen from some buildings that they were restored - fresh brick is noticeable along with the old masonry 
32. But the natural and climatic factors in these parts will quickly do their job and in a dozen or two years the "updates" will become completely invisible 
33. Tower after restoration 
34. And this is how the Vietnamese restore the destroyed towers. Under a canopy, protecting from rain and wind, carefully and carefully... 
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