Ella, Sri Lanka - independent travel. Horton Place National Park. There are a lot of interesting places in Ella, as for a small village

Nine Arch Bridge, Sri Lanka

The 9 Arch Bridge was built in the village of Gotuwala during the period of British colonial rule. This bridge is located between two railway stations - Ella and Demodara (Demodara) and is the largest in Sri Lanka. The huge, over 30 m high bridge is located at an altitude of 945 m above sea level, which is why its second name is "Bridge to the Sky".

The uniqueness of this massive bridge lies in the fact that it is built entirely of dense rocks, brick and cement, without the use of steel.

There is a popular story about its construction: when work was just begun, the First World War. A batch of steel destined for construction was selected and used by the military for their own projects. When work got up locals Sri Lanka firmly decided to build a bridge from the materials at hand - stones, bricks and cement, without the use of steel.

The history of the construction of the Nine-Arch Bridge

The main builder is P.K. Appuhami, born in 1870, he was a popular drummer and devil dancer. Once, after the ceremony of Tovil (Thovil), he returned home without changing clothes, in the traditional costume of the devil. His path ran through the station in Ohiya (Ohiya), where at that time the railway had already been built. It was there that Appuhami met with the Briton, who decided that he was in front of a fiend. After this incident, the British and the Sri Lankan became friends and Appuhami began to help with the construction of the railway in order to attract labor.

The lowland between the two hills was occupied by a bog, the British engineers began to get worried about this. The question was how to securely install the 9 pillars of the bridge on the ground. By that time, Appuhami already enjoyed the trust of British engineers and, having figured out exactly how to act, asked that the construction of this massive bridge be handed over to him. After refusing the first time, the British finally agreed the second time.

Appuhami began work on this difficult site in 1913. He organized people to be thrown down into the bog, big stones until they filled it to the very bottom. Only after that, he began to build brick columns, on the foundation formed from fragments of rock. The drum engineer completed the job in a year, and the cost of construction was so low that the British were not at all sure of the structural integrity of the bridge.

Appuhami was so confident in the quality of the work done that he even promised that the first time the train passed over the bridge, he himself would lie under the bridge. Subsequently, when the railway was first put into operation, he kept his promise.

Sri Lankan folklore says that the British offered Appuhami payment for his work on the construction of the bridge - four carts of silver coins that he brought from Colombo. Appuhami, in turn, held a feast for the residents of the surrounding villages of Parabedda and Puranwela and distributed food and treats for two days, and then distributed one silver coin to each villager. The bridge was commissioned at the end of 1921.

How to get to the Nine Arch Bridge

get to Nine-arch bridge you can from the nearest cities of Ella or Demodara.

  • From Demodara to the bridge you can take a tuk-tuk, or by train from Ella to Demodara, and from there walk to the bridge.
  • From Ella you can walk to the bridge, the distance is about 200 m from the Ella railway station, for this you need to go from the station along the road leading to the small peak of Adam.

Weather in Demodara

The best time to visit Demodara, like Ella, are two periods: January - April and July - September. At this time, the most favorable weather for walking and cycling is established.

The rainy season in Demodara takes place between May - June and October - December. At this time, there is an increased amount of precipitation and cloudy weather, which is not favorable for trekking.

Hello friends!

I finally made it to Goa! 5 times in India and only for the first time came to see off the sacred luminary beyond the horizon. All around Russian speech, inscriptions in Russian and in the menu of cafes - dumplings and borscht. A strange feeling, in fact... For not all compatriots here are illuminated by the sacred glow of the third eye. But I will write more about Goa a little later and I promise to make it as interesting as possible. Many people want to hang out here for the winter season, don't they? For now, read about the possibilities.

And now back to the events of a year ago! There, where the tea plantations of the village of Ella in Sri Lanka are drowning in the majesty of the steep cliffs and fogs of the Ceylon highlands. Having come here for the first time as part of our tour of the island, I firmly decided to stay here longer. For everything around is the way I like it: quiet, beautiful, foggy and cold.

Typical landscape of Ella

In general, I try with particular zeal to find places in the tropics where you can freeze. You can call it part of my travel lifestyle. Not everything...

What especially hooked me in Ella is the amazing nature. When we lived in a small home-stay with Sri Lankan grandfather Peter, even some deer came to us from the forest. I'm not talking about birds and all sorts of small biological species, such as spider bugs. There is a jungle around, so there are a lot of living creatures around, sometimes even too much.

But the rich fauna is not the most important thing here. The fact is that Ella stands almost on the very edge of the so-called. The Ceylon Highlands and literally 1 km away from it, the surface of the earth sharply goes down, forming the so-called. Ella Gap (Failure). IN good weather You can even see the lighthouse from here south coast, somewhere in the Galle area. Where else can you find this??? And all around are steep cliffs.

Road to Ella

I have seen something similar only in the Indian and Nepalese Himalayas, where you are simply lost in the clouds. And you are silent, looking into the white shroud and centuries-old pines through it. For to describe such greatness in words seems terrible blasphemy. Here, look better photo.

How to get there?

You can get to Ella from Colombo or Kandy by a whole string of trains that go to the final station of the highlands - Badulla. Only it is best to leave from Colombo, because the same train arrives in Kandy fairly packed (if you have not booked first class for yourself, of course) And it takes 6 hours to go.

Well, in Colombo - by air! Subscribe to price notifications on the Moscow-Colombo route so as not to miss a delicious promotion:

Attractions Ella

Not surprisingly, all that is worth coming here for is natural beauty. It is they who add up all the local magic. We were literally saturated with fogs, rains, rocks and evening cold during the short time that we lived here. You get off the train in an extremely comfortable railway station somewhere on the edge of the world and rocks and clouds crash into you right from the platform.

For example, Ella Rock

Main peak in the vicinity, which is very difficult to confuse with anything, because it rises very majestically. You can climb it from the village in 2-3 hours! Look up the routes on maps.me, the trails are marked there. Just do not get lost, because the forests there are dense, and there are a lot of leeches and other tropical joys in them.

Foggy Ella-rock from Little Adam's Peak

At the beginning of the trails, well-wishers from the category of local "guides" often graze, offering their services for some fee. Sometimes, very aggressively and persistently. There were even cases when, in case of refusal, they sent unlucky trekkers along the wrong road.

During our stay in Ella, we did not meet such unfortunate guides, because we did not particularly rush to Ella Rock. But, they were warned by vigilant guidebooks. Now I warn my readers!

Little Adam's Peak

One of the most important sacred sights of Sri Lanka, Adam's Peak, is far away and getting to its foot is already a rare austerity. Therefore, you can make an easy hike on its “lite version” in Ella. The path goes through the forest and tea plantations, past steep cliffs and wide coniferous trees.

Performance at the top

The ascent is easy, takes 50-60 minutes and is rewarded with stunning views of the peaks. Especially if you do not stay among the crowded crowd and go a little further south, to the cliff.

Anyuta inhales the clouds

A heavily overgrown path goes there, the difficulty of breaking through which is compensated by an even more awesome view: the valley, tea fields and the inimitable grandeur of the Ella Rock stone wall.

View from the outermost ridge of Little Adam's Peak

There is also a nine-arch railway bridge.

I never thought that I would go through the jungle to look at some bridge there. But this one is definitely worth it. True, it can be difficult to find it, because it is hidden from prying eyes by broken roads and dense forests.

But “the seeker will find” and after 2-3 unsuccessful turns, as a result, we crawled out to a steep cliff, from which a view of the wooded jungle and the old colonial railroad bridge through the gorge.

In fact, the bridge

But even more joy was the family of the Sri Lankans, who have had a house right on the path for many years now. Therefore, an incredibly charming young guy named Asanka with his father drinks tea and cookies with bananas for all the guests at the donation. I, who was reading the legendary Shantaram at that time, silently called him Prabaker. For the smile described by Robertsky 1 in 1 corresponded to the one that I found in Asanka.

Asanka (left), we (in the middle) and Asanka's father (right)

When you are in Ella, stop by to chat with Asanka and his father. They will be glad. These are one of the few Sri Lankans who behave like human beings. For the majority local population, as I already wrote in an article about traveling around Sri Lanka - rare degradants.

Walks in the woods and local paths

While I was looking for a home for us for a couple of weeks, I suddenly discovered chic secluded options a little away from the local hangout (1.5 streets) overlooking the cliffs, surrounded by fogs and tall tropical coniferous giants. Walk away from the main tourist heel - you will see many stunning beauties. There you can also look for rooms or even apartments with kitchens for a long stay.

Just one of a kind

Ravana cave

I didn’t know anything about Ceylon before, but upon arrival I involuntarily began to be imbued with the amazing antiquity of the island. Where else can you find statues and ruins of Buddhist monasteries over 2,000 years old? What about the graves of Adam and Eve themselves? And the places of the main events of the ancient epic Ramayana?

So, thanks to the latter, another place near Ella became popular: the cave of Ravana, where an evil demon kept Sita, the bride of Rama himself, in captivity. Then, as usual, justice prevailed and Ravana (not without the help of the monkey prince Hanuman), snatched off the awesome cradles from Rama and blessed Ceylon was cleared of demons. True, judging, again, by the habits of the local population, not very effective :)

Cave from inside

The cave is located main road running along Ella Rock. Go and ask, the locals are very willing to show you the way. It is especially beautiful during fog and rain (as it was with us). They got wet, of course, but they enjoyed the mysticism and complete loneliness in full.

Railway loop of Demodara station

Another marvel of engineering in Sri Lanka. At 15 km from Ella there is a station where the road makes a loop, cutting through the hill to drop the height very sharply. I don’t know about you, but I love such railway tricks with passion. And there are a lot of them around Ella ... Why is the train ride here from Colombo itself. The views along the way are beautiful to the point of clouding your mind: the train is coming almost on the edge of the abyss.

A piece of demodar loop

Upon arrival at Demodara, we were looking for a good vantage point and, unfortunately, one was not found. Therefore, the loop could only be seen in parts. Well, okay, but the smell of flowers and the earth wet from monsoons was wonderful. This is enough for me...

About food, housing and the Internet

True, with budget food, it’s strained here, because everything is tailored for tourists, even small eateries with 3 chairs. With housing - a little better, especially away from the railway station (they rented a small dark room with a giant bed for $ 9).

Hotels and everything else is the best search here

We are here because we had an excellent veranda and relatively good Wi-Fi at our disposal. Well, 2 cats in addition, for the right to use which I am happy to pay extra (I say this in all seriousness).

At first, we were not going to call in Ella - by this moment everyone wanted to get to the ocean as soon as possible, moving every couple of days is very tiring. But we decided that in one day we just won’t get there ( railways in Sri Lanka, far from everything is covered, the main transport is buses). It was decided after the Horton Plateau to go to Ella for a couple of nights, then get on the bus and rush towards the ocean (as it turned out later, getting to the ocean from Ella, as well as from Nuwara Eliya, is not a problem at all - 6 hours of shaking on the bus and you on target :)

By the way, here is our route - as you can see, we did not stop north at ancient capital Pollonaruvu to look at the old temples, which was later regretted. In a word, in Sri Lanka there is something to do for 3 weeks and a month or more!


If you live in Ella for several days, then you can go to the waterfall and climb Ella Rock, but we only had a day. We chose a walk to the Small Adam's Peak (only the shape is in common with the big one) and by 9 arch bridge.

To the small peak of Adam, the path goes through tea plantations.
This is how tea blooms.

View from small Adam's peak.

The 9-arch bridge 30 meters high between Ella and Demodara stations is the pride of Sri Lanka. They write that in Sinhala it is called the Bridge of 9 Heavens - if you stand below and look up, you will see 9 heavens. The bridge was built without metal structures - only stones and cement. According to legend, when it began to be built, all the metal went to the needs of the First World War and skilled Sri Lankans built it without metal in 1921. I suspect that the project was still British.

The bridge is really beautiful.
And here on the rails we met local gopniks - they asked for a smoke and money, a classic :)

And then we drank beer and water in a cafe with such a magical floor.

The sequel will be about the ocean!

    Ella the most atmospheric city in the mountains.

    Ella is the most atmospheric city in the mountains. The tourist life is in full swing there! :) Lots of cafes and restaurants. Lots of tourists. But you can also relax calmly away from the center and walk along the chic woodland or go to a Buddhist temple.

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    Anonymous Russia

    Ella is a place from a fairy tale.

    Ella is a place from a fairy tale. Our friends said that you can walk there for several weeks and watch how the nature around changes. We were surprised by this advice, it seemed that it would be boring in the mountains, but after a couple of days of being there, you understand that it cannot get bored. And there are many places around where you want to go and see beautiful landscapes from different angles. We found a wonderful hotel in the mountains, which offers a gorgeous view. If we return, we will definitely visit Ella again. If you choose where to stay: in Ella or Navara Elia, definitely the first one.

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    Anonymous

    4,0

    It is worth going to Ella only to swim and admire ...

    Evhenf Ukraine

    8,0

    Green and beautiful gorgeous views from the mountains

    Green and beautiful, gorgeous views from the mountains. Little Adam's Peak is worth a visit - the climb is not difficult. In the city, you can have a delicious meal at Chill Cafe and Dream Cafe. Ravana waterfall is not worth a special trip, it is better to stop for a couple of minutes on the way to Ella, if possible. Great massage at 98 acres resort & spa, but the price is very high. Massage there can be ordered even for non-guests. In the city itself, you can get a massage in the salons on main street, but their appearance is terrible, I did not dare. Finding a tuk-tuk is not a problem, you can bargain, but if you need to go somewhere uphill, then you respect the driver and give him more than you agreed upon arrival)

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Having overcome the 3-hour route from Nanu Oya, we entered a completely different world. It was warm here, we were surprised how easy it is to get from one climate to another. In Ella, too, there were mountains and greenery around, but probably because of the heat, the area seemed welcoming and friendly. We wanted to wander more here, see the beauty.

I don't know why Ella and Nuwara Eliya are paired and they are listed as identical places on tours. It's absolutely different cities! In all senses. Climate, architecture, people, sights. They are united only by the presence of mountains and tea factories. The climate here is very comfortable. The air temperature is 24-30 degrees, not dry and not excessively humid. The architecture is simple. Plain mountain village. There are very few hotels. Mostly guesthouses. Attractions are all close at hand. They are located very compactly, compared to Nuwara Elievsky.

After we settled in the guesthouse, we began to think about which sights to start with in order to have time to see as much as possible.

There are a lot of interesting places in Ella, as for a small village.

Upon arrival, we decided to go to the Ravana waterfall. There were about two hours left before sunset and we had to be in time. We took a bus (to Velawaya) from the center. The road was serpentine along the edge of the cliff. Near the waterfall, breeders were already waiting for us, who supposedly offered some kind of pebbles as a gift, but we, of course, did not take anything from them. Nevertheless, they extorted a couple of hryvnias from us, for their collection. It’s not clear what the divorce is, but it’s better to stay away from such types and don’t take anything from them and don’t agree to free.

The waterfall was really beautiful. It started high, high in the mountains and fell in rapids. Locals and tourists swam below, someone climbed higher. We took a few pictures and drove back, because if you don’t make it before dark, it will be difficult to find our house)

And in the end, we only had one day left to see the rest of the sights. Therefore, by the method of elimination, we chose the most interesting and accessible for inspection in a short time: Mini Adam's Peak, Bridge and Spice Garden.

We saw enough temples, caves are not particularly attractive, tea factories are expensive and long. Then, along the way, they still excluded the spice garden and preferred to go to the Ravana waterfall again.

Mini Adams Peak

From early morning we went to Mini Adams Peak. Climbing it takes 1.5 hours of a leisurely walk along a picturesque alley, and only closer to the top are steps that are hard to climb. We stopped to take pictures every two meters, because the panoramas here are simply amazing! The sides of Adams Peak are covered with tea plantations that look like a green curly carpet. Beautiful flowering trees are everywhere, a view of the mountains stretching into misty infinity, a view of Ella Rock - a higher rock (according to descriptions on the Internet, climbing it takes about 4-5 hours). There seemed to be a lot of tourists, but somehow they all dispersed so that no one interfered with each other.

9 arch bridge

From the foot of Adams Peak there is just a path to a 9-arch bridge over the mountains and a tea factory. At the top of Adams Peak there was a sign for a cafe and a path down. But we ignored him, and if we had paid attention and followed it, we would have taken the same mountain path to the bridge passing by the tea factory, while greatly shortening the path. We wanted to take a picture of a train passing over the bridge, so we were in a hurry and it was a little annoying that we wasted too much time.

We had a view of the bridge from above, from the mountains. It turns out that if you go from the city center, and not Adams Peak, you can go straight to the bridge. This was not mentioned anywhere ... But it seems to me that the view from above is even more interesting. Yes, we liked the itinerary. The views are stunning.

The funny thing is that we arrived even before the train (it was very late), but still we didn’t take a picture of it, because we were already walking back when we heard it approaching and the bridge was no longer visible.

After the bridge we went back to the city for lunch.

The whole town is dispersed in the mountains and along the roads, and the center consists of shops, hotels, small restaurants. There you can eat the same rice & curry only 2-3 times more expensive than even in the capital. It also seems like something European is being prepared there, such as pizza. But then again, all at prices three times higher than usual. So we bought some snacks at the supermarket. They came up with a very satisfying option for themselves - a Kurd with fruits.

Ravana waterfall

After lunch we still had time to the waterfall. Just in case, I grabbed a jacket, because we were driving there in the late afternoon. The waterfall is high and stepped. His name is Ravana, probably in honor of ancient emperor Lanka (mythical or real, it is not clear). The emperor had a stern character, which is probably why the waterfall was given such a name. During the rainy season, it looks very impressive and powerful. But we were at a different time and did not check it out.

The devil pulled me to climb up as far as possible). There open beautiful views and no people. We saw yesterday that the guy somehow climbed upstairs. He didn't look like Superman, just a normal guy. So we can get in.

It was easy at first. But at a certain stage, the ascent seemed unrealistic, the stone became almost smooth, without ledges, there was nothing to catch on. Also 80% vertical lift. If you slip, then jump down the stones for a long time with a small chance of not breaking your head. But for some reason it didn't stop me. It was just necessary to climb up! By some miracle, Edik was able to climb, but I couldn’t manage. Helped liana, which for some reason lay at hand. Edik held the liana from above, and I climbed while sitting in reverse. In the end, we conquered this height!

But when I looked down, I was seized with real horror! Going back is very scary. It’s just that there is a cliff. Despite the panic, I still took a picture, because it’s not for nothing that all this)) Edik somehow didn’t panic at all, but he didn’t deny my desperate assertions that the idea was stupid and I was crazy))

It was getting dark :) We had to urgently decide something. Either descend or spend the night here with snakes, mosquitoes and monkeys. Realizing that no one would remove us from here, she gathered her will into a fist and we climbed down. Everything was like a blur...

In fact, getting off was much easier. And we still managed to swim under the waterfall on the lower step. It was a cool adventure. Haven't experienced this extreme in a long time. As trophies - there are many cool photos left.

After sunset, we returned to our room and prepared for tomorrow's trip to Yala.