Where to walk on clean ponds. An interesting route around the Chistye Prudy station
Station " Chistye Prudy”is part of the Sokolnicheskaya line of the Moscow metro. A wonderful and surprisingly beautiful section of the capital - Chistye Prudy: the metro is nearby, a green boulevard, a magnificent pond ...
The station was built and put into operation in 1935, along with the very first section of the Sokolniki metro station - Park Kultury.
Location
This station is located between the "Red Gate" and "Lubyanka". The location of the entrance is the beginning of Chistoprudny Boulevard. The territory belongs to the Basmanny district of the Central District of the capital.
Through this station, you can exit, in addition to the boulevard itself, to Myasnitskaya Street and to the square called Myasnitsky Gates.
Chistye Prudy (metro station): description
The ground hall has an original cube shape. The depth of the subway itself is more than 35 meters.
The vaults of the hall support two rows of twin pylons. Their finish is represented by smoky light Ural marble. Large cornices, behind which lighting is arranged, are hidden by vaulted supports.
The walls were faced with black granite (bottom) and gray marble only in the 90s. Previously (until 1997) there was an ordinary white tile. The floors are paved with gray and pink granite.
Passenger traffic daily at the exit is 32,000 people, and at the entrance - 29,000.
History of the station: features
The Chistye Prudy metro station was built according to an individual project. Monolithic reinforced concrete blocks were used here. At first, the station had two entrance halls on the site of the current central one.
The shape of the station's structure is a three-vaulted pylon (reconstructed in 1971).
It is also interesting that the floors at the station until 1972 were asphalt. Later they were lined with granite.
Before the construction of the transition to the neighboring Sretensky Bulvar station, and, accordingly, to another line, a bust (bronze) of S. M. Kirov (sculptor M. G. Manizer) stood at the end of the Chistye Prudy metro hall near the wall. Previously, the station was also called "Kirovskaya" in his honor. Now this statue is located at the crossing between Sretensky Boulevard and Turgenevskaya and has lost its former connection with the Chistye Prudy station.
Vestibule (hall), transfers, transitions
"Chistye Prudy" is a metro station that has a single, moreover, ground lobby. From the central hall itself there is a transition to Turgenevskaya (Kaluzhsko-Rizhskaya line).
In 2008, the completed transition to the Lyublinsko-Dmitrovskaya line through Sretensky Bulvar was opened at the station. To access this transitional gallery, you must use the escalator located at the end of the station hall.
In the very original version, it was proposed to open this crossing together with the Sretensky Bulvar station, but there was a delay in the delivery of escalators from the factory in St. Petersburg, and only one transfer was opened. The launch of the crossing from Chistye Prudy was postponed.
There is a passage to the Turgenevskaya station, to which stairs rise from the very center of the hall.
origin of name
The station "Chistye Prudy" (Moscow, metro) is so named due to the proximity to it of Chistoprudny Boulevard, as well as Chistye Prudy. The exit leads to them.
It is curious that until 1703 the pond itself was called Pogany, due to the fact that waste from slaughterhouses and shops located in these places was dumped into it. It was subsequently cleared and renamed.
The current Myasnitskaya street used to be called Kirovskaya (until 1990), so the station had the same name (in honor of the politician S. M. Kirov).
Finally, some interesting facts
- Metro "Chistye Prudy", as already noted, has a cubic-shaped ground lobby. Previously, there were similar vestibules at the Komsomolskaya (northern) and Smolenskaya stations. To date, only one has survived, at Chistye Prudy.
- This is one of the few stations with the old "METRO" sign on the lobby.
- During the Second World War, the halls of the Chistye Prudy metro station housed the departments of the General Staff and the country's air defense.
- The first fluorescent lamps illuminated this particular station of the Moscow Metro, starting in 1947.
- The area of Chistye Prudy gathers a huge number of people from all over Moscow: lovers of various styles of music, non-formal people, etc. Many people gather at the monument to A. Griboyedov, at the fountain of Chistoprudny Boulevard, sit on benches, meadows. One of the simple names for this cozy place recreation - Clean.
- Rallies, flash mobs and holidays are often held here. This is truly a cult place. And the Chistye Prudy station makes its contribution to these curious large-scale actions.
There are many places in Moscow that are perceived ambiguously. One of them is Chistye Prudy. In the middle of the wide Chistoprudny Boulevard, there is a clear pond, surrounded by old lindens, chestnuts, well-groomed bushes and neat lawns. Informal youth, fans of some football teams, just fans of hanging out, singing along with the guitar and laughing out loud like to gather here. The pond is surrounded old quarters and a few modern buildings that organically fit into the urban landscape. Above the pond and the small park adjacent to it, the energy of the old Moscow place reigns, filled with a bright and unique history.
The emergence of the pond dates back to the end of the 16th century. Moscow grew, new squares were built up and populated. The buildings erected at that time cut the small river Rachka, which previously flowed in the area of the pond. As a result, part of the river simply dried up. And the swampy part of the area, left by the former river and fed by numerous streams, gradually formed a pond.
It was originally called Pogany. Not far from it was (and is now in the same place) Myasnitskaya street. The butchers who lived on it, who fed the whole of Moscow with meat, were engaged in slaughtering and butchering the carcasses of livestock. They dumped all the waste from their activities into the pond. The water there was always a dirty brown color and exuded a fetid smell, which was especially unbearable in the summer heat. The townspeople tried to avoid this place.
Everything changed during the time of Peter I, when his associate Alexander Menshikov acquired not far from filthy pond luxury mansion. The view of the pond and the stinking smell coming from it did not please the royal favorite, and he ordered to clear the pond. After the bottom and banks of the reservoir were cleaned, Menshikov forbade the use of the pond for dumping waste from Myasnitskaya Street, and the pond itself was renamed Chistye Prudy (although there was always one pond).
Over time, Chistye Prudy became a place of rest for the townspeople. In the summer it was possible to go boating and swimming here, in the winter ice skating was arranged. From the middle of the 20th century, boating was banned, and swans and ducks settled on the calm surface of the pond, whose offspring still live there.
Now Chistye Prudy is called not only the reservoir itself, but also the adjacent park zone. The nearby metro station bears the same name. This place, like no other, keeps the memory of the old days.
Despite the seeming tranquility, this place keeps the memory of the terrible events of history that it witnessed. It was here that during the time of Ivan the Terrible, more than 100 boyars, accused of treason, suffered a painful death. This happened on the banks of the Rachka River, long before the appearance of the pond. Even earlier, on the banks of the Rachka, there was an ancient temple of pagans, which was destroyed during the time of Christianity. Like any other, this temple possessed powerful power and its destroyers, who threw the sacred attributes of pagan worship into the water of Rachka and set fire to everything that burned, were severely punished for their deeds.
All these events could not but leave a trace on the long-suffering land of this place. Subtle natures feel anxiety, fear here, try not to linger in the vicinity of the pond. In addition, natural water sources have dried up. Now the pond is being filled with tap water, which also does not have the best effect on the energy emitted by this place.
But for those who just want to be near the water and enjoy beautiful view, Chistye Prudy is a real oasis in the center of a noisy metropolis.
Many of us know that there is a special science - toponymy. This science studies names and therefore is at the intersection of geography, philology and history.
Let us turn today to toponymic knowledge in order to answer the question of whether Chistye Prudy in Moscow was called before. After all, these reservoirs are quite old, so they had some other name.
Let's consider this question in more detail.
Origin story
So, these artificial reservoirs have been known in the capital for a long time. Nearby were butcher shops and slaughterhouses. It was in the waters of these ponds that resourceful shopkeepers dumped their waste products.
That's why the ponds were called "Bad", because the stench emanating from them was difficult to convey in ordinary words.
Now, any tourist who visits here and asks himself the question: “What was the name of Clean Ponds in Moscow before?” - will be able to learn such a story from the guide. In the 18th century, the stench of these ponds reached either Peter the Great, or his faithful servant A.D. Menshikov. As a result, either one or the other ordered to clean up water facilities with such an unpleasant odor.
New name
And so the new name "Chistye Prudy" took root, the history of these places is as follows: after that they became a real property of Moscow. Thanks to beautiful scenery and relative solitude, Muscovites came here to take a walk along the water in the summer, and to ride on the ice in the winter.
Clean ponds have become real resort place, folk festivals and holidays were held here.
cultural significance
In the world of culture, Chistye Prudy in Moscow (as we already know it was called) in the late Soviet era received special significance. This happened because artists began to gather here in the 80s.
However, these were representatives of the so-called subculture: rockers, metalheads, goths. In addition to them, some representatives of the world of poetry and music also appeared.
It was at that time that Igor Talkov's song about these places gained popularity.
Today, young people gather here near the monument to the poet Alexander Griboedov, charity events, flash mobs are often held, and couples in love are walking.
And if you turn to these passers-by with the question: “What was the name of Chistye Prudy in Moscow before?” - hardly anyone will remember that once it was impossible to be here because of the fetid smell. Now these reservoirs are a kind of symbol of Moscow, its greatness and power, centuries old traditions and eternal youth.
The current Chistye Prudy are located on the top of a gentle hill. Such places were characterized by swamps and small rivers flowing from them. On the “clean” everything was like that - the streams formed the Rachka River, which was a tributary of the Yauza. With the growth of Moscow, the reservoir was drained, and the wall built in the 16th century white city cut Rachka. Since it was forbidden to build houses in the lowland in front of the wall, a famous pond appeared at this place at the turn of the 16th-17th centuries.
The reservoir was called Pogany Pond, and there are several versions about the appearance of such a dissonant name. According to one of them, in this area the pagans worshiped their gods, and the word “filthy”, which came from the Latin “paganus” (pagan), characterized not something dirty, but a pagan. According to another version, the place of the future Moscow was previously occupied by the possessions of the boyar Stepan Kuchka, who inappropriately received Prince Yuri Dolgoruky. For this, the prince ordered the boyar to be killed and his body to be drowned in a pond, after which the reservoir received the name "Bad".
However, according to the most famous version,
the pond began to be called Pogany, as merchants from butcher shops on Myasnitskaya Street dumped production waste into it. In the summer, when an incredible heat hung over the capital, fetid odors hovered over the reservoir, and people tried to avoid it.
Prince Alexander Menshikov put an end to the dirty past of the pond. After the favorite of Peter I bought a mansion near Pogany Pond, he decided to clear the reservoir, strictly forbidding it to be polluted. And the butchers left Myasnitskaya Street. Since then, the ponds have been called Clean. However, historians claim that Menshikov cleared the ponds that were not known to us, located behind the White Wall, but those that were located in the depths of the quarter. Now in their place Chistoprudny Boulevard and pedestrian area.
Familiar to every Muscovite, Chistye Prudy appeared later. Their first mention is in the documents of the Catherine era, devoted to plans for the destruction of the walls of the White City and the construction of the boulevard. Three ponds were noted there, but they were equipped after Patriotic War 1812, only one. Despite this, in the popular memory the name was preserved in the plural.
In 1820, Chistoprudny Boulevard was built near the ponds. It became the second longest after Tverskoy: its length was 822 meters. The boulevard was inhabited by people of different social strata: from the Moscow nobility, who built luxurious mansions along the inner side of the street, to the townspeople and merchants, who built up the outer side with their yards. At the same time, the tradition of festivities along Chistoprudny Boulevard has remained since the time of Griboyedov and Pushkin.
Until 1958, a boat station worked at Chistye Prudy: in the summer it was possible to ride a boat. In winter, when the ice froze, everyone who wanted to take them on "clean" skates. In 1960, the banks of the ponds were reinforced with stones and then with concrete.
Fortunately, the transformations of the Soviet era did not affect Chistoprudny Boulevard:
buildings have not changed their appearance since the end of the 19th century. For example, the Coliseum cinema, designed by architect Roman Klein, is still located at 19A Chistoprudny Boulevard, only now it houses the Sovremennik Drama Theatre.
Chistye Prudy may have become one of the most mentioned Moscow reservoirs in Russian literature. So, for example, Yuri Nagibin called the ponds "the focus of the most beautiful", which filled his childhood, "the most joyful and saddest, because the sadness of childhood was also beautiful." He called the famous ponds a school of nature: “We fished here, and it happened that not just a black leech wriggled on a hook, but a real silver bait. And it was a miracle to catch a fish in the city center.”
The writer also noted that in his time
among the boys there was the title of "chistoprudnye". It gave the right to fish, ride a boat, climb ice boulders in winter and build snow fortresses.
Only those who lived on the boulevard could earn it: the inhabitants of the nearby lanes were denied the title. “Not only could we not approach the pond, but simply crossing the boulevard on the way to school was fraught with considerable risk. A broken nose, a purple bruise under the eye, a hat torn from the head is the usual retribution for insolence, ”wrote Nagibin.
Patriarch's Ponds
Patriarch's Ponds is not only the name of the famous reservoir itself, but also the surrounding square and residential microdistrict, on the territory of which there are three churches, a synagogue and more than 15 embassies.
In place of the "patricks" there used to be a goat swamp. It got its name either because of the goats grazing here in huge numbers, or because of the proximity to the place where goat wool was processed and delivered to the royal and patriarchal courts. However, there is also a conspiracy theory, according to which it was not the goats, but the intrigues that the evil spirits repaired by the inhabitants of these places.
Allegedly, on the site of a swamp in ancient times, pagan priests drowned their victims, and before that they often cut off their heads. Patriarch's ponds, an hour of an unprecedentedly hot sunset, a severed head - it reminds me of something ...
At the beginning of the 17th century, Patriarch Hermogenes decided to build his residence on the Goat Bog. So, in its place, the Patriarchal Sloboda appeared, which included several churches. In 1683, the clergy ordered to dig three ponds for breeding fish for the patriarchal table: two on Presnya, where expensive varieties of fish were bred, and one on the Goat swamp, where cheaper livestock were launched.
Subsequently, the Patriarchal Sloboda fell into decay. The ponds were started up, and the area became swampy again. They were remembered only in the first half of the 19th century: then it was decided to bury the old reservoirs and leave one decorative pond. A square was laid out around it and began to be called "Boulevard of the Patriarch's Pond".
The spring flood of 1897, which seriously polluted the pond, made the Moscow authorities seriously think about the "perfect filling" of the reservoir.
The City Duma argued that the existence of a pond in "a densely populated area does not cause any real need." The story ended well: the "patricks" were spared and decided to fill it with fresh Mytishchi water.
The skating rink on the Patriarch's Ponds, built on the frozen surface of the reservoir and so beloved by Muscovites today, gained its popularity at the end of the 19th century. It is known that, for example, the writer Leo Tolstoy took his daughters there to skate in winter.
It is noteworthy that the Soviet authorities, as part of the fight against religion, renamed the Patriarch's Pond into Pionersky, and with it the Patriarch's Lane, located in the neighborhood. However, despite the renaming, the people continued to call the pond Patriarchal.
Golitsyn pond
Today Golitsynsky Pond can rightly be called the heart of Gorky Park. The reservoir consists of the Big and Small ponds, which are connected by a narrow isthmus. Work on its creation began in 1954.
Over the entire period of its existence, the reservoir has changed its name several times: in Soviet times, the pond was called Pioneer, but after the collapse of the USSR, it was returned to it historical name, and Pionersky began to be called the pond at the main entrance to the park. The pond retained the name of Prince Dmitry Golitsyn, who created the Golitsyn Hospital for the Poor in 1802 (today the First City Hospital).
In the 30s of the 20th century, waterfowl were brought into the pond: among them were two swans with black necks of a rare breed. Currently, the birds delight visitors to the park only in summer: in winter they are carefully moved to special houses. Until recently, the Golitsyn reservoir was completely covered with algae. This problem was solved by 400 kg of fish released into the water by the management of the park. It was she who cleared the pond of silt and algae. Today, silver carp, carp, crucian carp, perch and white carp live in the pond. Reeds, reeds and water lilies are planted along the shore.
Nearby is the so-called "Island of Dance". Now it is not used for its intended purpose, but in the 1930s one of the most beautiful stages in the park was located here.
On the shore, on the site of the modern Ostrovok cafe, there was an amphitheater for spectators (about 700 seats). There one could watch a performance, a ballet, an opera, and artists from the Bolshoi Theater often performed on stage.
Today big square reservoir gives citizens the opportunity to rent catamarans on boat station. The main thing is not to disturb the peace of graceful swans and ducks, the real owners Golitsyn pond. Near the pond there are sun loungers and benches: feel free to land on them and have a picnic. Park Wi-Fi and sockets located next to the sunbeds will help you stay connected. In the evenings, lamps will create a romantic atmosphere, slightly illuminating the water surface of the pond.
Ostankino pond
The Ostankino pond was dug at the beginning of the 17th century in the floodplain of the Ostankino stream. He has two more names - Palace and Akterkin. He received the second during the time of Count Sheremetev, who in the middle of the 18th century built a fortress theater near the pond. According to legend, actresses, tired of a hard life, illness and oppression, committed suicide by drowning in a pond.
However, some historians note that notoriety swept the Ostankino pond long before the sad fate of serf artists. According to some reports,
on the site of the reservoir in the past there was a suicide cemetery, and later - a German Protestant one. From this, historians conclude that the name of the area comes from the word "remains".
It was also emphasized that in ancient times the pagans performed sacrificial rituals at the same place. And, according to one of the mystical versions, restless souls are allegedly pushing the inhabitants of the Ostankino region to commit suicide at the present time.
On the site of the cemetery today there is a small building of the television center. This arrangement gave rise to legends about the ghost of an old woman who was allegedly buried alive near the pond. The sorceress lived in the 18th century, during the reign of Emperor Paul I. It was she who, according to legend, predicted the death of the autocrat during his visit to the estate of Count Sheremetev. Since then, she allegedly walks around Ostankino and portends trouble. At the same time, it was noted that after the death of the old woman, the peak of suicides began in the serf theater of the count.
If we omit all mysticism, then we can say that in the 18th century the pond was popular among the townspeople. People walked along the shore, rode boats, and also launched fireworks at night near the reservoir. Alleys led Muscovites into the depths woodland which used to be a hunting ground. Today, on the pond, you can sit on comfortable benches, feed the ducks, and also try your luck and meet famous TV presenters rushing to work at the Ostankino television center.
Lefortovo ponds
Lefortovo ponds are the main water area of the park of the same name, located in Izmailovo. It appeared in the 18th century as a garden at the palace of Admiral Fyodor Golovin, close associate of Peter I. The park was built by Dutch architects, whom the emperor personally invited to Russia. They installed many dams, red brick terraces and dug ponds, which they later called "Lefortovo".
Each reservoir has its own name: Boot, Northern, Bathhouse, Square, Guitar and Island. Sapozhok Pond is named after its unusual shape, and Guitar Pond used to resemble a church cross, but after the banks “floated” it became like an extended part of a guitar.
Interestingly, the Lefortovo ponds and reservoirs in Izmailovo acted as Chistye Prudy in film of the same name 1965 directed by Alexei Sakharov based on the works of Yuri Nagibin.
Unfortunately, it is forbidden to swim in the ponds (why disturb the rest of the ducks?), but no one will prevent sunbathing. On warm days, all the banks are filled with sunbathing Muscovites. In summer, in the park, you can see elderly citizens throwing fishing rods: they hunt hybrids of crucian carp and carp. However, Rospotrebnadzor experts argue that fish caught in the pond should not be fed even to a domestic cat.
If you have a day off, do not rush to get into the car and go to Auchan. Summer is the best time for walking! And if, like almost any Muscovite, you do not know the city at all, then the time has come to fix it!
Today we will walk from the Chistye Prudy metro station not along the boulevard (which would be too obvious), but along the lanes that hide a lot of beautiful and interesting things: Leonardo DiCaprio, the most delicious ice cream in Moscow, a dovecote from Soviet books and much more. Don't forget to buy a bottle of water in advance and hit the road!
Our first landmark is McDonald's. We pass by and walk along Myasnitskaya Street. We turn into Gusyatnikov Lane, and then to Ogorodnaya Sloboda. It is here, in a small park between houses 2 and 6, that unusual monument. The locals have long nicknamed him "Leonardo DiCaprio". Like it or not - you decide. Of course, it is hard to imagine that the city authorities, out of love for the film "Titanic", would immortalize a Hollywood actor in the center of Moscow. In fact, this is a monument to the young Lenin, or rather "Lenin the gymnasium student." A unique image of Ilyich, nevertheless, people of the older generation easily recognize him - it looks like a face on Soviet badges.
And for the youth, the monument was signed with paint.
Then we go to Bolshoi Kharitonievsky Lane. Here, among the fences and trees, the estate of the Volkov-Yusupovs is hidden. One of the buildings - the oldest in the complex - belongs to XVII century. It's easy to define: stone building, massive white walls, small windows. In front of the house there is a small garden, reminiscent of the fact that once there were forests. It was from here that Ivan the Terrible and the boyars Volkov-Yusupov began hunting, following longer to Sokolniki.
And the white stone building is also famous for the fact that little Pushkin once lived in it with his parents. It is easy to imagine him running down the porch into the garden.
In the courtyard of the estate, where the second building of the Volkov-Usupov estate stands (house 21, building 4), fruit trees grow: cherries and pears. In July, you can already try these cherries, but you have to wait for the pears. Knowledgeable Muscovites often gather tree fruits here, and now you are privy to this secret.
We go, paying attention to the old houses, to the street. Makarenko. We are interested in house eight. Here is a unique Moscow courtyard: with an apple orchard, a playground, a real dovecote and a small zoo where peacocks and black swans live. This whole courtyard was equipped by one person - local An Eldar who has lived on the Pure for four decades. He defended Apple orchard from people who wanted to build a parking lot in its place. If you are polite and say hello, and not just walk by, then Eldar will definitely tell the story of the court, allow you to go to the swans and feed them grass, and show the way to the apple trees.
You should definitely come here with your child! Everyone watched the Moscow zoo, but to see a real menagerie in an ordinary Moscow courtyard is an amazing experience!
While we were walking, you probably had a desire to eat. No need to look for "Chocolate Girl" or "Coffee House". While you are in the area, you should definitely try the most delicious ice cream in Moscow!
They make it in the cultural center "Pokrovsky Gates" (Pokrovka St., 27, entrance from the yard), or rather, in the cafe "Tea Height". The menu has more than 40 types of tea ice cream according to original recipes. Ice cream is called so because it is made on the basis of tea. Ice cream with Crimean rose, with cloudberries, with cheese, with Pu-erh tea is worth attention. Each taste is an unforgettable gastronomic experience. Then you will recommend tea ice cream to all your friends!
Ice cream is carried slowly, so while waiting for it, you can look into book Shop cultural center. On its shelves are not only art publications, but also books on philosophy, history, culture. The large children's section is conveniently decorated: each cabinet is signed: from 2 to 5, from 6 to 10, and so on, up to 16 years. Worth paying Special attention on the products of the publishing house "Samokat": it prints smart children's books (authors: Annika Thor, Ulf Stark, Marie-Aude Muray and many others).
