What to see in Venice in one day. Shop for carnival masks. colorful bookstore
Before traveling to Italy, I read a lot of travel guides. And in one of them it was said that Venice causes tourists either endless love or disgust. Only vivid emotions, not a step to the left or right. Is it so?
For us, the whole of Italy began with this city. The plan was simple: we end up in Piazzale Roma after a sleepless night on different planes and airports and walk to the hotel, leave our things, walk all evening, and dedicate the whole next day. But Venice is a city where everything goes wrong plan, water and crowds of tourists rule the ball here. Have I managed to intrigue you? Then go ahead!
So, at 10:00 on April 19, we got off the plane at the Venetian Marco Polo airport and our first task was to get to the city center. We have chosen the most a budget option- a bus that cost us 16 euros for two. Not bad for a budget traveler, right? But cheaper we could only get there on foot.
How to get from Marco Polo Airport to Venice?
As in any city in the world, there are several ways to get to Venice from the airport. They differ in cost and comfort - a bus, a water regular tram and a water taxi.
We chose the cheapest option (I see no reason to spend a lot of money just to get to the city center) - a bus for 8 € per person.
There are two ways to buy a bus ticket: through the ticket office or on your own. The ticket office is located in the arrivals hall, next to the baggage claim, and looks like a mobile point of sale for all kinds of tickets. Here you can buy tickets for any type of transport from the airport.
You can buy a ticket on your own in the vending machines, also located in the arrivals hall. This is true for those who are not at all confident in their spoken English or the ticket office is closed. We bought at the checkout, the queue was small, only 1-2 people.
Clue
Wherever you buy a ticket, in any case, it must be validated before boarding the bus. Validators are located at each bus stop. Bus drivers strictly monitor the validation of tickets and may refuse to travel or even issue a fine. By the way, buses from Marco Polo airport have free Wi-Fi. This is a huge plus when you need to tell the family that the flight was successful and you have arrived at the place. The bus ride takes about 30 minutes.
Just 30 minutes on the bus and - hooray! We are officially in Italy! And not just anywhere, but in Venice itself, the city of canals, narrow streets and romance.
Before the trip, I, like probably many of you, read a lot of articles with the title "10 things to do in Venice." And the first item almost everywhere (in the top three for sure) was the item "Get lost in the streets of Venice." Our experience has shown that even those who did not want to get lost can get lost in Venice. And we realized this after about 10 minutes, almost immediately after we crossed the bridge of the Constitution (Ponte della Costituzione). We were looking for a hotel for a good hour and a half instead of the promised 30 minutes) For you to understand, it is located next to the Rialto Bridge. The story of what awaited us at the hotel, .
How to find yourself in Venice, and indeed abroad?
Take care of it in advance and download to your phone offline google maps. How to do this, read in. It is important that the device is able to support GPRS, then you will always be in an unfamiliar country. This method works without the need for an internet connection!
If you are so lost that even maps do not help, then go to the first cafe that promises free Wi-Fi and order a taxi, but for this always have the exact address hotel!
Attention, in the territory of Venice you will have to wander on your own, because. any transport is only on the water.
After checking into the hotel, we managed to walk around the Rialto market (open from 7 am to 12 am), where we tasted juicy strawberries and admired the freshest fish and seafood. Oh, what a pity that we did not have a stove in the hotel! Hands itched to leave the market with hands full of all sorts of yummy.
Clue
In Venice, we bought both in the market and in chain stores. It turned out that vegetables and fruits are on average cheaper in stores. For example, in the market we took a tray of strawberries about 250 gr for 1 euro, in stores the prices are different, ranging from 0.75 to 3 euros per kilogram.
What is worth taking at the market is spices, there is just a sea of them. Of course, they are found throughout the city on tourist stalls, but it is better and more atmospheric, in my opinion, to take them there.
Some of my tourists stuck to the sellers in the Rialto market and learned in sign language what kind of seafood they catch in the Venetian lagoon. The locals told them that it is customary for them to eat these shrimps raw, sprinkling only with lemon. For such a pleasure, I recommend coming in the morning so that all these marine reptiles are still fresh.
Then, through many streets and squares, we reached famous square San Marco. And only then did we understand the true meaning of the tourist crowd. And not on the most seasonal day there is simply no place for an apple to fall. For those who have the time and desires, Piazza San Marco is a source of inspiration and activities for the whole day. There is so much to visit here! We continued our way along the streets of Venice, occasionally stopping to buy the famous gelato.
One of the highlights of the first day in Italy happened, oddly enough, during lunch. Following the example of many tourists and local residents(judging by the people in business suits), we bought a takeaway pizza (6.5 euros for two) in the first eatery we came across and sat down to eat it, dangling our legs over the water, on the embankment of one of the Venetian canals. And while we were enjoying pizza and gondolas, a seagull stole a paper cup with leftover pasta from our neighbors (!!!) and started rushing around us and showing off! Probably, it was a tactical move, the seagull hoped that some kind of bun or leftover pizza would fly into it, but, realizing that it could be content with only a box, flew away with it over the canals. By the way, Italian seagulls are already a whole attraction, they are in all the cities where we have been, and they are 5 times larger than ours. And they are not at all afraid of a person!
Venice itinerary for one day
And now I offer you my version of the Venice itinerary if you are in the city for one day and want to have time to "feel" this beautiful city.
Rome Square (Piazzale Roma)
I propose to start the walk with squares of rome(Piazzale Roma), because it is here that buses come from the mainland and from the airport, and on the other side of the canal, across the Bridge of the Constitution, is the only railway station in Venice. If you live in Venice, then I suggest you start the day from anywhere on the map. It certainly won't get worse.)
Bridge of the Constitution (Ponte della Costituzione)
Bridge of the Constitution is the second stop on our route. You don’t need to cross it, just admire it, because it is the youngest bridge in Venice.
When you think of Venice, what is the first thing that pops into your head? I have these famous water channels with bridges and a crowd of people. So, the Constitution Bridge is one of the four bridges spanning the Grand Canal, and the youngest. It was built in 2008 by the Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. And, frankly, it has become a lifesaver for tourists, and for local residents as well, because it connects the only Santa Lucia railway station in Venice and Piazzale Roma, where all the buses in Venice come without exception.
The name of the bridge was given in honor of the 60th anniversary of the adoption of the Italian Constitution, but among the people it is often called the "Calatrava Bridge" and the "Fourth Bridge".
In our tour, we will walk along two more bridges over the Grand Canal - the Rialto Bridge (Ponte de Rialto) and the Academy Bridge (Ponte dell'Accademia). Now I will say that the Rialto Bridge for a long time was the only bridge across this world-famous canal, until the Academy Bridge was built in 1853. Then, in 1859, another one appeared, the Barefoot Bridge (Ponte dei Scalzi), named after the Carmelite monks. Right now, from the bridge of the Constitution, it can be seen in full glory.
Photo of the Constitution Bridge taken from bridge-builder.ru.
Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Our next stop is Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari. You can just look at this building from the outside, but I highly recommend paying 3 euros for entry.
Firstly, inside you are waiting for two whole works of the famous Titian - "Madonna Pesaro" and "Ascension of the Virgin Mary". And the rest of the interior decoration is worth a surprised sigh. Stained-glass windows, vaults, murals!
Secondly, the church has a beautiful courtyard, decorated with extraordinary statues and galleries.
The church is open to the public:
- From Monday to Saturday: from 9:00 to 18:00.
- Sunday and holidays: 13:00 to 18:00.
- Attention! At 17:30 the church closes the doors to the entrance.
By the way, the church is active, and during special events (weddings, christenings, funerals) it is impossible to get into it. You can check the schedule on the official website.
Price: 3 euros (full) and 1.5 euros (for students under 29). Plus there is a list of preferential categories that can go for free. Benefits must be proven.
At the box office you can take an audio guide for 2 euros. The tour lasts approximately 30 minutes. 6 languages available: Italian, English, French, German, Spanish and Russian! They also give you a brochure at the entrance.
The official website of the Basilica is www.basilicadeifrari.it. Photo taken from there.
P.S. We did not manage to get to the Basilica, which I am very sorry about. Do not miss your chance! When will you be in this city again?
Rialto Market (Mercati di Rialto)
I already wrote about the market above. Of course, it’s worth going there to at least stare at all this yummy. By the way, ask at the hotel reception if they have a kitchen somewhere, even if it was not in the description of the room. This is what happened with our B&B. It was worth asking and the owner took us to the kitchen hidden under the roof.
Rialto Bridge
The Rialto Bridge is perhaps the most famous bridge in Venice. And certainly the oldest. At first, the bridge was wooden, and only in 1591 was it possible to certify the construction of a stone version of the bridge. This is how it has come down to our days.
Eat interesting story about the Rialto Bridge from those ancient times, when the bridge was not even thought to be built. In this place (this is the narrowest part of the Grand Canal, where else to cross it?), when there was no bridge yet, the inhabitants of Venice had to move from one bank to another in boats connected to each other. And when the number of accidents and even deaths became simply amazing, the Venetians still had to build a bridge. Imagine if you had to cross a bridge of tied boats to get to work. What an adventure! And dubious pleasure)
The bridge reaches 48 meters in length and looks like a staircase of extraordinary beauty, with benches standing on it (there are 24 in total). There are always a lot of people here! Often you just can’t push through, but you still have to go through it. And the shops sell souvenirs, jewelry and leather goods.
By the way, another amazing fact. The Rialto Bridge stands on 12 thousand piles driven into the bottom of the canal. To be honest, it's hard to imagine it.
Photo taken from Wikipedia.
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark's Square, Piazza San Marco)
Undoubtedly, Piazza San Marco is the pearl of the city. It is here that all the tourists of the world flock. Here you can hang out for one or even several days, looking at the buildings, feeding the pigeons on the waterfront and studying the great works of art.
Photo taken from www.veneziatoday.it
St. Mark's Basilica (St. Mark's Basilica)
The Cathedral of San Marco is an amazing place that contains an incredible amount of ancient relics saved by the crusaders from Constantinople plundered by Muslims. In addition to the cathedral itself, you can visit the museum and the treasury, which store the most valuable exhibits. And the Pala d'Oro - an altarpiece consisting of 250 miniatures by Byzantine artists and other valuable mosaics. You can also separately climb the bell tower of the Cathedral and admire Venice from a bird's eye view.
Working hours:
Museum of San Marco - daily from 9:45 to 16:45.
Basilica San Marco - from 9:45 to 17:00 daily, except Sundays (14:00-16:00).
Pala d'Oro and Treasury - from 9:45 to 16:00 daily, except Sundays (14:00-16:00).
Bell tower of the Cathedral of San Marco - from 9:00 to 21:00.
Price: admission to the basilica is free. A visit to the cathedral museum costs 5 euros, Pala d'Oro - 2 euros, treasuries - 3 euros, bell towers - 8 euros.
Hours vary depending on the time of year and holidays. You can check on the official website of the Cathedral - www.basilicasanmarco.it
Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale)
Today, the Doge's Palace is a beautiful museum, which contains unique collections of works of art. And the building itself is impressive! What are all these frescoes and gilded ceilings worth ... Previously, for many centuries, there were representative offices of authorities, in particular Supreme Court Venice. A walk through the museum will take at least two hours (practically by running), but it is better to spend half a day on visiting the Palace, for example, on a rainy day or in the evening, when the main crowds of tourists have already passed.
Opening hours: in summer - from 8:30 to 19:00 (admission until 18:00), in winter the museum closes earlier at 17:30 (admission until 16:30).
Price: for adults - 16 euros, for children 6-14 years old - 8 euros. Admission is free for children under 5 and disabled people.
The official website of the Palace is www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
Torre dell'orologio
Torre del Orolodgio - clock tower, on top of which there are two moving three-meter statues - a youth and an ancient old man. They symbolize the inexorable course of time. There is also an observation deck at the top of the tower. But you can go up there only with a guided tour in English by prior reservation.
Price: 12 euros, there is a reduced ticket for children, students and pensioners for 7 euros.
And after all this unreal amount of works of art and the resulting culture shock, there is only one thing left - to hide in the corner of some cafe, order a glass of red dry and your favorite pasta. And then take a leisurely walk and look at the famous Bridge of Sighs, and then go towards the Academy Bridge to get to the next point of our route. By the way. you can shorten the path by taking a vaporetto across the Grand Canal.
Bridge of Sighs
The Bridge of Sighs is probably the second most famous bridge in Venice, although it connects the building of the Doge's Palace with the prison building, and in the Middle Ages, convicts were escorted from the courthouse along this bridge, who last time sighed for lost freedom.
Now the Venetians came up with new story much more romantic. According to legend, the kiss of lovers under this bridge will help to keep the love mutual forever. They say that you need to do this on a gondola, swimming under the bridge, but I think that the crowd of tourists on the bridge is not just there)
Photo from commons.wikimedia.org.
Cathedral of Santa Maria della Salute
This Cathedral, it seems to me, is visible from any place in Venice, especially from the embankments. All you have to do is raise your eyes! When we reached the Cathedral, we were already so exhausted that we could not even find the entrance to it. We rested on the steps, looked at Piazza San Marco and went towards the hotel.
By the way, the cathedral was built in honor of getting rid of the plague of the 17th century, when the disease claimed more than a third of the city's population. The Cathedral stands, like the rest of the city, on piles driven into the bottom of the lagoon, more than 100 thousand piles!
The church is open daily from 9:00 to 12:00 and from 15:00 to 17:00. And on November 21, when the annual mass is held here in memory of the deliverance from the plague, the Cathedral is open until 23:00.
This is where our route comes to an end, and I suggest that you return to the station through Fondamenta delle Zattere, leaving the tourist crowds. Here you can breathe freely and admire the lovely Venetian houses and courtyards to your heart's content.
We are starting our Venice guide from the route one day in Venice. We will pass the city in a circle and see all the main sights and areas of Venice. This guide is for those who have just arrived in the city and want to get to know it on the first day before starting to study it in detail. It is also suitable for those who do not have time at all, who want to see Venice on your own in one day.
Traveled around Venice and shares his impressions
The guide is large, so we have divided it into parts: in each we will go through one area.
Our entire Venice itinerary is shown on the map so you can explore it as you go. The map will be in every part of the guide.
Begin...
Venice cycle or Venice in 1 day
Venice already existsone and a half thousand years, for centuries attracting the attention of the whole world. Its history is stormy, bright and full of contradictions; the city is full of architectural monuments, museums, the Venetians createdyour lifestyle, which you can’t confuse with any other - that’s what pulls people into this “very romantic city" on the ground. Hundreds of thousands of people come here every summer, and one can only wonder how a small, in fact, city can withstand such an influx of tourists?
Panorama of Venice from the mainland. You can clearly see the only road that connects the city with the mainland. Trains also run here.
And I vowed that if I could get out of my native empire, then first of all I would go to Venice, rent a room on the first floor of some palazzo, so that the waves from passing boats splashed through the window, I would write a couple of elegies, extinguishing cigarettes on a damp stone floor, I will cough and drink, and when I run out of money, instead of a train ticket, I will buy a small Browning and, on the spot, blow my brains out, failing to die in Venice from natural causes.
Joseph Brodsky - Embankment of the incurable
I myself am a sinner, I was carried away by Venice (in absentia) five and a half years ago, and carried away, I realized that I needed to go and see with my own eyes what fascinated me; since then, for five years in a row, I have been traveling to Italy with an obligatory weekly visit to my favorite city.
Rialto is the most famous bridge in Venice.
Anyone who comes to Venice for the first time gets dizzy. Perhaps the reason for this is the hot, humid climate, but it is rather just a background or some kind of appendage to the main problem: Venice is extremely difficult to understand and structure for yourself - it surrounds you at once, alleys and streets call through bridges in all directions, the attractiveness of every centimeter of Venetian space is huge! Maps will not help: the Venetians themselves admit that accurate andno one has yet compiled a correct map of the cityno matter how much they tried.
My story is for those who came to Venice for the first time and who have some time to get acquainted with this miracle.
To start, a few rules:
- look for nothing;
- do not rush anywhere;
- don't be afraid to get lost;
- drink water.
I will explain these rules in the course of my stories, but for now I propose to start the first familiarization with me.circular tour of Veniceto get to know the city and more or less understand what is where. Before leaving, I will say that Venice is divided intosix districts, they're called "sestiere”, from the Venetian dialect it is translated as “sixth, sixth part”, and we will go through them all, simultaneously getting acquainted with their history, essence and sights. Let's start.
Way from Santa Lucia train station
Exit the station building, look around: to the right behind big building will be of modern designBridge of the Constitution, through it the easiest way to get toPiazzale Roma(Roman Square), where are locatedbus stops to the mainland. Right in front of you the waters will splashCanal Grande, the main "avenue" of the capital of the Adriatic, and on the left -Barefoot Bridge(Ponte degli Scalzi).Us to the left, but not across the bridge, but straight ahead and slightly to the left,by Rioterra Lista di Spagna.
Gondolas on one of the canals.
In order not to be distracted later, I will say right away: the words “via” (“street”), “viale” (“lane”), “corso” (“avenue”), familiar to Italy, you will not find here; the streets here are called "calle" - a path, "ruga" - a street, "salizzada" - a wide paved street, "rio terra" - a canal covered with earth, "ramo" - a branch.
These definitions have been preserved since ancient times, when there were few cobbled streets in Venice. That is probably why the squares here are called "campo" - a field overgrown with grass.
Excursions
Down the street Rioterra Lista di Spagna among the crowd of people and bright shop windows, past restaurant tables and souvenir kiosks brought out into the street, without looking back and looking into the narrow crossing streets, turning only where the street itself turns (these are not sharp turns, these are small deviations to the side), we will go toCampo di San Geremia, St. Jeremiah's Square, where there is a large church, shops, and a restaurant. Here I will give you a rest after a rather narrow and always crowded street (there are many hotels on it, and in those alleys that we looked into too) and I will inform you that we are in the areaCanneregio.
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At about 11 o'clock we stop at the bridge connecting Venice with the mainland - Ponte della Liberta. I'm worried, to be honest. I'm afraid of disappointment. You know what happens when you come to a city that everyone loves. An established travel brand with postcard views everywhere. It seems that you have already seen everything and know everything, although you have never been here. We drive up to the Venezia Santa Lucia station, exit onto the platform, pass through the station building and ... exit to the station square. God, she's real
Before the trip on the map, we marked our approximate route and the places we would like to see. Since we had only one day at our disposal, we decided to leave visiting museums and internal inspection of palaces for the next time. I didn’t want to waste a minute of my time on tedious standing in lines. I just wanted to enjoy Venice. We traveled from the regional train with a change in Ferrara 3 hours. Round-trip tickets for three cost us 75 euros.
It is hard to believe in the reality of what is happening, that the dream has come true, and I am in Venice!
Venice shocked me at first sight, I could not believe in the reality of what was happening, which made the children laugh, periodically repeating: “My God, we are in Venice, I can’t even believe it!”. The city is small, so even in one day you can see a lot of things. We started from the station square, past Church of the Scalzi (Degli Slalzi) or Santa Maria di Nazareth to the Scalzi bridge.
Through the bridge we get to Santa Croce area, we go straight along calle Lunga, then left to calle Bergami, cross the bridge and immediately right, along the promenade to the end. What is good about this route? The fact that we walked, enjoying the views, and did not make our way through the crowd of tourists.
The architecture of Venice consists of different styles from different eras. There is absolutely no modern architecture there, since there is no free space for construction. The city has remained the same for centuries as it was hundreds of years ago.
Then we cross the bridge again, from it - to the left to fondamenta Late, then straight along calle del`Olio Magazen, at the end of which you need to turn left, go around the canal along the embankment and go along the bridge to campo dei Frari, where we will see the facade of the basilica. This Basilica of S. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari- most famous temple in Venice after the Basilica San Marco. The grave of Titian himself is located here, on the right side of the temple.
We return to the bridge in front of the facade of the basilica, cross it, turn right to the end, then left, and then right again to the end and again left. Behind the canal we see cozy campo san polo. In the summer, outdoor concerts are held here.
Coming through Calle Madonetta straight ahead until campo San Aponal, we go around the church on the right and along a long street full of shops we go almost to the end, to Ruga di Speziale, turn right and we are at the small campo San Giacomo. At one end you can see the facade of the church with a huge clock face. This campo and the surrounding area was the true center of Venice several centuries ago.
After passing under the arches with numerous bars where you can drink something and have a bite, we go out to a wide and short promenade of Erbaria. Then again under the arches, left to campo Bella Viena with its famous cheese shop "Casa del parmigiano". Prices are high, of course. Quality too. You can also buy ham, olive oil and wine here. But we did not buy anything here and moved on. If you pass by the New Factories (Fabbricche nuove), then you will exit at vegetable market, followed by a fish. You should definitely go there to see the usual, not tourist Venice. And even buy something for dinner if you are staying for a few days. But you need to go there before 12 o'clock, otherwise, except for empty counters, you may not see anything.
We return to the Ruga di Speziali and follow it to the famous Rialto Bridge (Ponte di Rialto). Now it is not so much a bridge as a shopping street with terrible souvenirs and a crowd of tourists.
The view from the bridge is wonderful.
We go down from the bridge and go straight, we go out to a busy Campo San Bartolomeo. Here we are already walking with a crowd of tourists in the direction from Piazza San Marco. It is impossible to go astray. Marcheria is not only a shopping street, but also the main thoroughfare along the Rialto-San Marco route.
You can’t hide anywhere from sellers of Chinese fakes :) And we decided to go to Ferrari Store showroom and take a look at the 2007 championship car on display here.
The main square of the city appears unexpectedly because of the tall houses on a narrow street, and the first thing you see is a grandiose facade. Basilicas of San Marco. Until 1807, St. Mark's Cathedral served as a palace chapel. Doges were crowned here, the army was blessed before the Crusades. From here the famous Venetian captains went on long voyages, from here Marco Polo began his journey. No Venetian celebration is complete without Mass in St. Mark's Basilica. On the square in front of the basilica, the famous Venetian carnivals were noisy and noisy.
There is a strange feeling, as if a lion is looking directly at you from above ... This clock tower Torre dell'Orologio, built at the end of the 15th century by the architect Coducci.
A real masterpiece is the astronomical clock on the tower, showing the seasons, lunar phases, hours and the transition of the Sun from constellation to constellation.
The famous bell tower Campanile of St. Mark's Basilica.
We tried to sit on the parapet to look around, but immediately a policeman came up and said that you can’t sit here. But you can easily ride a lion, which everyone does with pleasure :)
You can sit in the legendary and very atmospheric cafe "Florian". This, of course, is an expensive pleasure. But I think that everyone here can afford a cup of coffee. After all, this cafe is considered the oldest cafe in Italy and is one of the symbols of Venice. The cafe was opened by Floriano Francesco (a) no on December 29, 1720 and was called at that time Alla Venezia Trionfante. But all visitors preferred in conversations to call the cafe by the name of its owner - "Florian". It was the first coffee house in Venice, which could be visited not only by men, but also by women. With the transition of the cafe to a new owner in 1858, it acquired its current form. Without exaggeration, we can say that all the celebrities who have visited Venice since 1720 have visited the Florian Cafe. It was visited by Goethe, Byron, Casanova, Rousseau, Proust, Dickens, Modigliani, Hemingway, Stravinsky, Brodsky... the list is endless. So you pay here not only for coffee, you understand :)
The famous symbol of Venice - Lion of Saint Mark, it is still a symbol not only of the city, but of the entire Veneto region.
The area, of course, is very beautiful, but we were prevented from enjoying its beauty to the fullest by the terrible heat and crowds of tourists. We really wanted to escape from there to the water, which we did.
We sat on the first one that came up vaporetto- a water tram, not even knowing where we will sail. We didn't care :) open area and swam, enjoying the coolness and beautiful views.
Venice is loved for what it is, with peeling plaster buildings and breathable wooden and stone bridges, stone paving of sidewalks, sculptures, pediments and pediments. Architectural Venice is available to everyone. Walking along bridges across canals and canals, squeezing through the narrow streets shoulder to shoulder, unexpectedly entering spacious squares and colorful markets, looking into open doors temples, you are already becoming a part of it great story called Venice.
This is the bridge we used to enter Venice.
Vaparetto salon and its conductor :)
We left not far from the Piazzale Roma and walked along the embankment. On one of the streets we came across a bar where several locals were sitting, so we decided to have a bite to eat and relax. Then we just walked, trying to stay close to the canal, watching the life of the city.
Do not be afraid to stray from the intended route and get lost, wander through these narrow streets, observe the ordinary life of the townspeople. You will get no less pleasure than visiting some sights. Especially if you only have one day.
It should be noted that our flight on the water tram completely disrupted our entire route. But we weren't upset at all. We really enjoyed this day spent in Venice. I left there with a slight sadness. I made a promise to myself that I would definitely return there and live there for a few days.
Venice just bewitched me. I sincerely feel sorry for the people who, having been there, did not see anything “special” there, except for shabby buildings and did not feel anything, except for the smell of the canal. They did not see or feel Venice. And she really is magically beautiful. Now I know it.
You need to go to Venice to fall in love, and leave to return.
Of course, to know this mysterious city You need to stay there for at least 2-3 days. To walk along its streets early, early in the morning, to watch how he wakes up; taste fresh pastries in the newly opened pasticceria; walk through the markets of Rialto; walk to St. Mark's Square and admire this beauty to its fullest, until it is filled with tourists, sit with a cup of coffee in the famous Florian restaurant. Visit the Lido and other islands, have a picnic on one of them. Light a candle in a church with a thousand-year history.
I recommend Apartment Cappello Dei Tiepolo , which are located in the beautiful area of Santa Croce. A seating area and a dining area are included. The kitchen is equipped with an oven, microwave, toaster, fridge, hob and coffee machine.
I advise you to book accommodation in Venice as early as possible, since it is quite difficult to find an apartment or a hotel room here at an adequate price.
Coming to every new town, I get to know him as a person, I try to understand his temper, to guess his fate. There are cities that are very young, carefree and soulless. The older ones have seen a lot, so they have become proud like San Marino or wise like Rome. Among my acquaintances are arrogant London, dynamic Tokyo, carefree Rio, and self-confident Madrid. I have heard more than once that Italy without Venice will never open to the end. Of course, I went there on the very first day off, choosing from a guidebook what to see in Venice in one day.
Venice was tender and sad. I don’t know if Paul Eluard was here, but his “beautiful-faced sadness” is about Venice. It is very different from other cities, it is unique and beautiful, and knows it. We come to her for a short time, and then all our lives we cannot forget her slightly faded beauty, and we shudder when we hear another news that she has sunk a few more millimeters into the water. Why was this city built on stilts, dooming it to extinction? The charm of Venice is like the beauty of a woman - in her happiness and misfortune are tightly intertwined.
How to get to know Venice
If you are planning your itinerary, I can advise you not to go off the beaten track. hiking trails. There you will see crowds of tourists gazing at the sights of Venice and filling the space too densely. On a date with the city, it is better to get out in the non-tourist season, or at least in the tourist time. In autumn, spring or early morning you will learn something about Venice that disciplined tourists from the Land of the Rising Sun will never know, obediently flying like a flock of sparrows, following the guide. Delve into non-excursion districts, walk along narrow streets, look into the intricacies of back streets, courtyards and dead ends, and you will find out what Venice is like when strangers are not looking at it.
You will certainly see all the sights included in the mandatory program, but let your route not quite coincide with the generally accepted one. A map will help you to travel around Venice. You yourself are unlikely to be able to find the point where you are on it, but waiters in a cafe or local residents will be happy to help you.
I will not plan your movements around the city, I will just tell you about my favorite places, and you yourself can find these sights on the map.
Piazza San Marco
Main Venetian square - Piazza San Marco. The Venetians respect it so much that they call it a piazza, while other squares are awarded only the title of campo and campiello (field and small field). On San Marco, you must definitely look at every building - there are no trifles here. Even the pavement of light stone deserves special attention - its design has not changed since the thirteenth century.
Trapezoidal area, 175 meters long. In the north - Old Procurations, on South - Procurations New. Near the Old Procurations there is a tower with a clock decorated with zodiac signs and bells that chime every hour. The western part is connected by arcades and the area under them looks like a huge Italian courtyard. In the southeast corner is the bell tower. Numerous photos of San Marco and the passion of directors for this place make the square recognizable. Caught on Piazza San Marco, we know that we will feed seagulls from our hands, and then we will sit for half an hour in one of the cafes on the square. This is how it all happens: it is not necessary to feed the birds, but the view of the square from the cafe is excellent, and the cappuccino here is very tasty. The price of 10 euros for a cup may seem exorbitant, but you will remember that Hemingway or Lord Byron were relaxing at one of the tables. Apparently, the price of coffee is adjusted to the historical memory of this place.
The temple is so beautiful that it is impossible to take your eyes off it. This cathedral was built over four hundred years, each architect brought something of his own to its appearance. As a result, this architectural marvel appeared, which cannot be attributed to any particular style, although the structure seems to be Byzantine to inexperienced contemplators. The harmonious combination of antique columns, Gothic towers and arrows, bas-reliefs, frescoes and marble cladding is proudly called the Venetian style. The cathedral is a real treasury of Christian shrines and a place of pilgrimage. He is bright, like a southern flower, and surprisingly photogenic.
Other name - Palazzo Ducale. The first palace was built over a thousand years ago. The building burned down many times and was rebuilt, but already in the 15th century the present image was formed. Here for many centuries the Council of the Venetian Republic met, justice was administered, the Inquisition did its dark deeds. The Doge's Palace seems a little unreal - the combination of a lacy lower floor with a full-bodied top looks so strange. Protected by water from all sides, the city could not really care about the fortress of buildings.
In the square in front of the palace, in the darkest times, the inhabitants of the city found the bodies of the executed - this is how the Council of Ten made the “only correct” decision and dealt with traitors to the highest public interests without delay. The last hanged man was demonstrated in 1752, but since then the Venetians consider it a bad omen to walk between the columns of a small square.
The golden staircase of the palace leads to the front rooms - they are luxurious and worthy of a detailed study, but if you decide to explore Venice on your own, I do not advise you to go deep into the exposition, otherwise you risk not seeing anything else in the city.
Bridge of Sighs
Ponte dei Sospiri- a popular place for kissing. I don’t know if the ritual helps in love, but kissing is certainly useful, especially at sunset and under the Bridge of Sighs.
The history of this graceful building is not romantic at all. The bridge connected the city prison and the Doge's Palace. These are the sighs of the convicts, their horror and longing still disturb the inner space of the bridge with a faint echo. Only lovers do not hear this, completely absorbed in each other.
Cathedral of Santa Maria della Salute
This is the so-called "plague church", one of many in Europe. When a cholera epidemic broke out in Venice in 1630 after a fifty-year hiatus, the townspeople still remembered the previous pestilence that claimed 45,000 lives. The city was slowly dying out, and it was decided to build a new temple to appease the higher powers. The Church of St. Mary of the Salvation or St. Mary of the Convalescents performed a miracle, the plague receded. To this day, on November 21, thousands of Venetians install a pontoon bridge and walk along it to the church to pray to their intercessor.
I would like to avoid grandiloquent comparisons - I will simply say that Santa Maria is unusually good, especially in the evening, when she, illuminated by searchlights, is reflected in the water of the canal.
Church of Santa Maria del Rosario
The cathedral is better known as the Church of the Gesuati. In the niches of the magnificent facade there are sculptures that personify the basic Christian virtues - courage, moderation, justice and prudence.
Venice canals and gondoliers
Before coming to Venice, I was interested in the question of the number of canals, but I never thought about it in the city. Having already returned home, I read on Wikipedia that there are 160 large channels, and small ones cannot be counted. It doesn't matter - Venice doesn't need numbers or even dates, it is beautiful beyond time and geometry.
It is impossible to imagine Venice without gondoliers. This profession, although difficult, is quite profitable. The number of gondoliers has been unchanged for many years - there are 425 of them. A driving license is expensive and is usually passed down from father to son. Only Venetians who have undergone special six-month training get into the gondoliers. Along with professional skill, gondoliers seem to get a clear “skinning out” of tourists.
Perhaps the gondola is the only asymmetric boat in the world. It is this feature and the cunningly designed oarlock that make it possible to deftly control the gondola with one oar.
When you get from the tourist part of the city to the outskirts of Venice, the deserted streets are at first pleasing, and then frightening. More and more empty houses come across on the way - Venice is turning into a city of old people. Young people leave this place, unable to find a use for themselves.
Venice is built on piles driven into the ground with a thick palisade to a depth of 3 to 10 meters. Oak and larch logs are laid on top, and already on them rest stone foundations. For the time being, the soil compacted very slowly, but in the last 100 years the process has suddenly accelerated. Since then, Venice has been slowly sinking.
It is impossible to talk about Venice, describing only its sights. Venice is not just a pile of unique buildings on the water. Joseph Brodsky said that if reincarnation exists, he would like to live his next life in Venice. Anyone - even a cat. And I really want to hear the barcarolle someday and sail through each of the innumerable channels. A cat - so a cat ...
Vladimir Izvarin
Oddly enough, Venice doesn't start with the great waters of the Grand Canal or a cup of fragrant cappuccino on San Marco. Impressions overtake the tourist much earlier - this is the sound of wheels of hundreds of suitcases at the airport and the outlines of the two halves of the city familiar from the maps from the height of a landing plane. And only then the panorama unfolds in detail, and you begin to understand that the globe has turned, and you are in a completely different place. Here, mornings are not imagined without coffee, the smell of washed linen flies through the streets, and life drags on slowly and beautifully, like the filling in a small Venetian bun, if it is slightly broken. The main thing is not to lose yourself in this magic, adhering to a certain “fairway” of the journey, that is, simple and rich plan getting to know the city.
So, let's look at how you can spend one day in Venice and get the most out of it.
How to get to Venice
Another interesting way is to get to the island of Tronchetto by bus, without being too lazy to figure out the existing routes. Wait for the feribot, a large double-decker ferry, to leave the island for Venice. From the second floor of this vehicle offers stunning views of the churches of Venice. But it’s not worth spending time exploring Tronchetto, there are no special sights on the island. By the way, choosing a trip by ferry, you will not lose in price at all - the ticket price is the same as for a vaporetto.
What needs to be considered
For some travelers, Venice will start from railway station, for others - from the road from the airport. One way or another, the first thing to do is get a map of the city. Divided into tiny islands by hundreds of canals, Venice is exactly the place where it is difficult to figure it out without a clear plan. You can ask for a map at the hotel, and if it is not there, you can buy it at a newsstand. There are maps of the city along with vaporetto route lines, this option can also come in handy, although it is not at all necessary. Usually the card costs no more than a couple of euros. It's also a good idea to have small change with you. If you do not have pre-purchased tickets, then 50 cent coins, as well as 1 and 2 euros in a small amount will be very useful. With them you will pay for a cup of coffee in a cafe.
So, armed with a map, you can start the journey. In principle, it is not so important in what order to make acquaintance with Venice. Heading from one place to another, you will surely meet more than a dozen churches, which means you will stop and take pictures, and maybe go inside. In a word, it is impossible to draw up a clear plan without “distraction” to the details, but you can outline the main touches of a Venetian walk.
San Marco. The most recognizable place in the city is worthy of several vivid photos. But drinking coffee on the square is not recommended - the prices are too high here, and in the alleys three hundred meters away there are similar small bars, where there is no less romance, but the crowds of tourists and the accompanying noise are not in sight.
Walk around San Marco and breathe in the lagoon air. The myth about sewage and the smell from the canals, thank God, is nothing more than an unfortunate legend. Bottle-colored water breaks with a light surf on the shore and long "beaks" of gondolas. Opposite the square from the Palazzo Ducale is the Cathedral of Santa Maria della Salute. That's where we'll go.
Transport
Getting to the temple of Santa Maria della Salute is easy. Vaporetto No. 1 goes there, in general it is worth talking about transport in Venice separately. It is he, the first route, that is considered the most picturesque and describes an arc along the Grand Canal. The cost of an hour walk is 6.5 euros, for a ticket for 12 hours you will have to pay 16 euros.
Gondolas today are more entertainment than a means of transportation. They are expensive (5-6 thousand rubles for a walk), and fulfill the purpose of the tour. If you want to cross the Grand Canal and save some money, take a traghetto, here ferries transport tourists to the other side for only 0.5 euros. By the way, the Venetians themselves often use this method. And small traghetto boats are very similar to gondolas, only shorter.
There is no other transport that would move a tourist around the city in Venice. Is that on the island of Lido you can see an unusual sight for the eye - cars parked along the road. You will see how unusual they will seem to you after the narrow streets, cut by channels the color of bottle glass.
Venice beaches
Oddly enough, it is in Venice that you can combine a cultural holiday with a beach holiday. Just a few kilometers from San Marco is the island of Lido with a wide strip of sand, where both Italians and visitors to the city like to relax. You can also get here by vaporetto for 3-4 stops from Piazza San Marco.
Sights of Venice
The Temple of Santa Maria della Salute is just one of the few highlights of the city on the water. And, of course, it is impossible to get around all of them in one, two or even three days. But there are a few interesting places that should be given priority. If we talk about temples, we can distinguish the Cathedral of San Giorgio Maggiore, and especially its bell tower. You can take the elevator here and see Venice from a height of 72 meters. From here you can see the island of St. Helena, and the tower of San Marco, and other islands and places of Venice. The ticket costs 5 euros, the visit to the temple is free, and, by the way, it is allowed to film and take photos here.
You can get to San Giorgio Maggiore by vaporetto number 2 in the direction of Ferrovia, the temple is located on the same small island. Here you can see a small harbor for yachts.
There is another interesting place in Venice. In the Dorsoduro quarter, next to the church of San Trovaso, right next to the old building, and not far from the medieval well, there is a small utility shed. So it looks like - a low brick building with a triangular tiled roof. But it's worth taking a look inside. It is here that new gondolas are built and already worn or broken specimens are repaired. Inside you can see the wooden skeletons of future boats, a lot of working tools and craftsmen who, as a rule, do not stop working. Several other gondolas rest in a row on special goats in front of the building on a sunny day. By them and by the church, you can recognize this place.
And, of course, it is worth visiting the Rialto. From the legendary bridge offers a beautiful view of the city. And if you have enough willpower, you can get up early and come here to meet the dawn. Rialto is perhaps the best place for this.
In general, before you take a walk around the city, it is worth reading about the old churches and squares, bridges and markets. Knowing history at least partially, you will have a completely different look at the marble floors of Venetian churches corroded by high water, you will notice and maybe even be able to feel that spirit of antiquity that practically all of Europe is saturated with. Here its concentration is extremely high.
Cafes and restaurants
Indulge yourself and try a real Venetian breakfast in one of the hundreds of small coffee houses. There is no need to stand on ceremony, many are similar to each other and practically do not differ in anything. So don't be too careful. Coffee and a croissant, nicknamed in Venice by the French word "brioche", will cost a maximum of 4-5 euros. This is what a real Italian breakfast looks like. By the way, when ordering coffee, remember that you are in Italy, which means you should definitely clarify whether you want cappuccino or macchiato, or maybe espresso or americano. However, during a walk around the city, you can try each of the species. Just remember that it is not customary to drink coffee in the evening, although if you do order it, you are unlikely to be refused.
Another culinary theme in Italy is fish restaurants. Small by sea standards, the lagoon abounds with various edible animals - these are crabs, shrimps, and shells, from which the Venetians learned to cook delicious broth.
One of the most famous fish restaurants is located on the island of Lido and is called "Kri-Kri". It is located at: Via Sandro Gallo, 159, 30126. Before you get here, you should work up an appetite. But then, a little tired of walking around the city, you can get acquainted with local seafood. For example, order "frittura" - assorted different types of sea creatures fried in batter. And you can ask for pasta, it is special here and also with seafood. In addition to a good dinner, as real Italians do, you should drink a glass of light wine, and then coffee from a small cup a little larger than a thimble.
If you are walking around the city and want to have a light snack, you can take a pizza to go for 2 euros or try "tramezzini" - triangular sandwiches made from special snow-white and soft, like a sponge, bread with various fillings inside. This is another typical Venetian appetizer.
Don't go past the supermarkets and you'll find a lot of traditional stuff there, like a huge variety of cheeses and meat products. Something you can take away as a souvenir.
Venice Markets
The largest and most famous market is located in the Rialto area and is open from Tuesday to Saturday from 7-30 to 12-00. A separate independent part is fish market where fresh seafood is sold on the shelves. Worth a look even for the sake of curiosity.
A little further away there are stalls with herbs, vegetables and fruits, here they sell nuts, spices and mushrooms, as well as other products of farm origin. If there is an opportunity to cook something, you can make a couple of purchases. For example, buy fresh flounder and fry it in a light batter.
Similar markets, by the way, often appear in the suburbs of Venice, and in other larger cities near the lagoon. Here's just one catch - they are organized on certain days, usually on Mondays. And in order to catch them, you need to come in the first half of the day, after lunch, each such market disappears, as if it never existed.
Shopping in Venice
What is a trip without a souvenir? In Venice, it is better to make expensive, but high-quality purchases. For example, buy something made of leather or Murano glass. A quality mask will cost from 25 euros. But do not be stingy, it is better to give the full price and get aesthetic pleasure, rather than be content with a Chinese fake. Therefore, when buying, you should pay attention.
And if you have time, you can organize a trip to the islands of Murano and Burano. It takes longer to get to the latter, but here you can buy real handmade works of art - thin Buranovsky lace. On the island, in cozy shops, you will see local craftswomen - elderly ladies who, with the help of special small pillows, create the finest patterns. Vaporetto number 12 goes to the island from Fondamente Nove station.
Of course, that's not all. Each individual trip is a new impression of the city on the water. Someone will be lucky and he will find an aqua alto, and someone will get to the carnival or see how the city is covered with a veil of snow, and having sank into the water, it instantly melts. Every day in Venice is lived especially. Therefore, always, even in the most carefully planned trip, as in a normal dialogue, it is worth pausing to hear the city. And he will certainly open up to meet you and somehow show himself. And, perhaps, these will be your most vivid impressions of Venice.
Have a nice trip!
