The most famous temple in Cambodia. Angkor travel photo. Location of the religious center

The main attraction of Cambodia are the ancient temples. There are a great many temples in Cambodia, but I will write about the most interesting, majestic and beautiful, which amaze with their bas-reliefs and interesting masonry. The temples of Angkor in Cambodia are a whole complex of temples, which includes everyone famous temple Angkor Wat. All of these temple complexes are spread over an area of ​​more than 210 km² and many of them are still under exploration.

Cambodia attracts attention with its originality - this is not Thailand at all, all emasculated, sleek, comfortable and touristy. I still remember the amazing feeling of crossing the Thai-Cambodian border during the February 2015 trip. Beauty, culture, fit people in uniform are almost immediately replaced by rustic simplicity, helpers, shopkeepers and a pot-bellied topless customs officer. I was impressed by the wild lands, through which they traveled for an infinitely long time, free residents, able to sleep in a hut made of polyethylene and at the same time enjoy life, but most of all they were struck by the temples of Cambodia.

I tried to tell about our first impressions of visiting Cambodia, Thailand in a separate article, which turned out to be moderately emotional and I hope interesting. For comparison, I suggest reading an article about a similar trip inside Vietnam - there are differences

• How to get from Fukuoka to Ho Chi Minh City on your own

These are amazing temple ensembles that even Hollywood, which has repeatedly chosen them as scenery for its films, could not get around. Tourists have noticed features associated with sightseeing in Cambodia, which everyone should know about before planning a trip to the temples:

• every temple is beautiful different time days: some at dawn, some in the afternoon
• You can take great pictures at any time of the day.
• visiting the temple complexes of Cambodia takes a lot of time, so you should devote at least 2-3 days to this event in order to have time to visit the most worthy places. These days you can find a hotel in the nearby town of Siem Reap.

Read about how to choose cheap accommodation abroad when traveling on your own in the article, in addition, I suggest using a hotel card to select a suitable place for the first days of your stay in Cambodia:

In addition, to inspect the entire Angkor complex, you should think about renting a transport, because. many temples are at a fairly large distance from each other. Earlier I already wrote about the rental of the main modes of transport, as well as about public transport Cambodia. However, tourists who have gathered to inspect the temples of Cambodia are provided with an expanded version, so I will summarize here.

All modes of transport in Cambodia in 2015

• A bicycle is an interesting proposition if you stay a few days in Siem Reap (this is the closest place to the Temples). Approximately $2 per bike per day.
• Moped - renting mopeds ($8-10 per day) by foreigners in Siem Reap is prohibited by law. However, if you come from another city, then be sure to leave the transport in paid parking lots,.
• Taxi - can be rented for one day for $30-40.
• Elephant - You can ride an elephant from the gates of Angkor Thom to Bayon Temple. The cost is $10. And in Angkor Village you can not only ride an elephant, but also take a lesson from professional mahouts. The mahout will help you learn to sit confidently on the elephant and even with him you can learn a few commands for the elephant. Costs approximately $50.
• Balloon - This amazing vehicle can be used for $11 per person (cart includes up to 30 people). It will be possible to see only Angkor Wat from the air and capture it on the camera. But the balloon rises only in good weather.
• Minibus - The cost of renting a minibus with a driver (for 12 people) is approximately $50 per day.
• Motor rickshaw (tuk-tuk) - I think the most popular transport for moving around the territory of the Angkor complex. The cost of renting a tuk-tuk varies from $10 to $20 per day.

About how not to get into trouble when renting bikes or motorbikes in Cambodia, be sure to read an important article, remember that failure to follow the rules can cost you a lot of money for repairs or theft of a motorcycle. You can also read information about transport in Cambodia:

Entrance ticket price to the territory of the temples of Angkor:

• for one day is $20,
• for 3 days - $ 40 (you can visit during the week)
• per week - $ 60 (it can be used within a month).

Visiting hours of the most famous temple of Cambodia - Angkor Wat from 5 am to 6 pm. Do not try to lose the main (entrance) ticket, because on the territory of the temple complex there is its own sisuritl, whose employees will very quickly notice the absence of a ticket and issue a fine.

angkor wat temple

One of the main buildings at the moment, which is a national pride and is depicted on the flag of Cambodia.

The temple of Angkor Wat was built during the reign of King Suryavarman II (1112 - 1152). During his reign, Cambodia became a great power. Ankhgor Wat is an amazing architectural structure, which is created without any mixtures (fastening materials), stone blocks are adjusted so that they stick to each other very precisely. The temple was built in 89 years, the builders who participated in the construction, there are about 150 million people.

The heart of the temple is five towers - one in the center (this is the mythical Mount Meru, where all the gods and goddesses live) and four towers (temples) around it, and this whole place is in the middle of the moat (ocean), and the sun and moon revolve around the mountain . Angkor Wat can be recognized as the largest religious building in the world, because. it is built on belief in gods and goddesses. Therefore, it is divided into three worlds: the lower world, the world of people, and the world of the gods. The vision of these worlds is visible not only in the building itself, but also on the bas-reliefs and sculptures that adorn all the walls of the temple.

A lot of tons of stone were used to build the temple, and the weight of one block could reach up to 500 kg. Therefore, elephants helped the Khmers during construction to move especially heavy blocks. When excavating and studying the area, scientists did not find the buildings of ordinary Khmer builders who built ancient structures, so a theory was put forward that these buildings were not built by people at all, but that's another story ....

Angkor Wat is surrounded by a moat and was inhabited by crocodiles in ancient times. The temple is well preserved in comparison with other buildings of Angkor, because. Buddhist monks still live here.

In 1992, along with other buildings of the city of Angkor, it was taken under the auspices of UNESCO. Angkor Wat Temple is a major tourist attraction in Cambodia.

There are also many beautiful temples in this complex, which are also worth seeing, I will briefly talk about them in:

• angkor thom
• Bayon Temple
• Bapuon
• Royal Corps and Pimanakas
• Pre Paliley
• Thep Pranam
• Terrace of the Leper King
• Elephant Terrace
• Klings and Prasat Sor Prat
• Ta Prohm Temple is the most breathtaking temple of Angkor and everyone who comes to see Cambodia should see it. It is interesting because it is abandoned and given to the jungle, the trees that permeate it.

• Banteay Kdey and Sra Srang
• Ta Keo
• Pre Can Temple
• Pre Neck Pian
• Ta Som
• Preah Vihear

As you can see, there is something to see, therefore, having decided to get acquainted with ancient architecture, stock up not only with patience, but also with strength. Since you will have to walk a lot, listen if you hire a good guide, even more, but you will also get plenty of impressions. All you need now is to choose the best time to fly to Cambodia and plan a vacation, and life in this country is quite budgetary, even for selective travelers. Good luck with your exploration of ancient structures.

Read the rest of the story in the following article:

And remember that it is not necessary to fly to Cambodia on a direct flight, both Thailand and Vietnam are quite suitable for you, and then the road will take 7-8 hours by cheap buses, during which you can enjoy the colors of this wonderful country. Do not be afraid . You just need to take a small step.

Story

Angkor was the capital of the Khmer Empire for over 600 years, from 802 to 1432. During this time, the empire saw ups and downs, constant wars with neighbors: Vietnam, Siam (by Thailand) and Burma (Myanmar). Between the wars, the rulers directed their efforts to the construction of more and more temples. The temples that can be seen today are only a small part of a huge, powerful empire. It's hard to believe, but at a time when European capitals were small settlements and, for example, no more than 40,000 people lived in all of Paris, the population of Angkor was almost a million inhabitants! The reason why only temples remained from a million-strong metropolis is simple: only “god-kings” and priests were allowed to live in stone structures, and mere mortals built their dwellings from wood, which did not survive to this day.

Until 802, Cambodia was a disparate principality. King Jayavarman II managed to unite the country into a single empire. He declared himself "God-King" and built huge temple on top of the hill Phnom Kulen, symbolizing the dwelling of Shiva, on the legendary Mount Meru, in the center of the universe. Thus began the architectural “race for fame”, which gave us the beauties that we can admire today.

King Indravarman I (877-889) built an artificial lake and the temple of Pre-Ko. The lake was the beginning of an irrigation system that allowed Angkor not to depend on the vagaries of nature when irrigating the land. King's son, Yasovarman I (889-910) , continued the work of his father, creating his own mountain-temple Phnom Bakeng, from which today tourists admire the sunset over Angkor Wat. After the death of Yasovarman I, the capital briefly moved to Ko Ker, a city 80 km from Angkor. Already in 944, Angkor again became the center of power of the kings of Rajendravarman IV. (944-968) , who built Pre Rup, and Jayavarman V (968-1001) who created the temples of Ta-Keo and Banteay Srei.

The largest gems of Angkor, the temples of Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, were built during the classical heyday of the city. The first king of this period, Suryavarman II (1112-1152) , managed to significantly strengthen the empire and spread the influence of the Khmers to nearby countries. He, unlike other kings, worshiped not Shiva, but the supreme deity Vishnu, to whom he dedicated the most majestic of all Angkor temples - Angkor Wat. By that time, serious problems began in Angkor itself: the city was overpopulated, there was not enough water, and the surrounding lands were depleted. The construction of the temple undermined the economy of the capital. In 1177, the inhabitants of the kingdom of Cham - vassals of the Khmer empire - rebelled, captured and destroyed Angkor. Four years later, King Jayavarman VII (1181-1218) drove out the Chams. The walled city of Angkor Thom was built on the site of old Angkor. Jayavarman VII built many temples, including Bayon, a temple-mountain with faces facing in all directions. Jayavarman VII was the first king of Cambodia who worshiped not Hindu gods, but the Buddha.

After the death of Jayavarman VII, the empire fell into decay, Buddhism was forgotten and many Buddhist sculptures were destroyed. The Khmer Empire was never able to regain its former power.

In 1351 and 1431, the Thais sacked Angkor, taking gold and art with them. center of power South-East Asia moved to Thailand. The capital of Cambodia was moved to Phnom Penh, and Angkor was abandoned.

In the 1860s, the French traveler and botanist Henri Muo stumbled upon a monastery on the territory of Angkor, then under the control of Thailand. Descriptions of the majestic temples in the jungles of Cambodia appeared before, but only after the publication of the discovery of Anri Muo, the eyes of Europeans turned to Angkor.

In 1907, Angkor was returned to Cambodia. Travelers, adventurers, archaeologists, historians flocked here, and Angkor gradually became one of the main attractions of Southeast Asia. The restoration of the temples was a major task. Most of them, except for Angkor Wat, were heavily overgrown with jungle, sometimes so much so that it was impossible to clean the temple without damaging it. A dispute flared up to what extent the temples should be restored, whether later additions should be removed, such as Buddhist images in Hindu temples, etc. In 1920, it was decided to restore the temples using the anastylosis method. The idea of ​​the method was that the restoration took place using only those materials that were used in the original construction, as well as to preserve the original structure of the temples. Modern materials were allowed to be used only if the originals were lost.

From the 1930s to the 1960s, most of the temples were restored. The Khmer Rouge almost did not damage Angkor, but restoration work was suspended and the jungle attacked the temples with renewed vigor. After the fall of the Pol Pot regime, work continued, and in 2003 UNESCO considered it possible to remove Angkor from the list of endangered cultural heritage.

A small dictionary for a better understanding of the description of temples

Gods

• Brahma is the main of the three primary gods of the Hindu trinity, the "creator".
• Shiva is one of the three primary gods of the Hindu trinity, the "destroyer".
• Vishnu is one of the three primary gods of the Hindu trinity, the "protector".
• Krishna is the eighth reincarnation of Vishnu, usually depicted in blue, most often with a flute.
• Lakshmi is the wife of Vishnu, the goddess of beauty and wealth.
• Parvati is the wife of Shiva, she is also Shakti or Durga, the goddess of power.

Mythical creatures

• Asura is a demon.
• Rakshas is a demon.
• Yakshas are the inhabitants of the underworld.
• Apsara - heavenly nymph, dancer.
• Devata is a demigoddess.
• Nag - naga snake.
• Garuda - half man, half eagle. The mount of Vishnu.

Architectural and geographical terms

• Banteay is a fortress or citadel.
• Barai is an artificial reservoir.
• Boeng is a lake.
• Gopura is a gate tower in the temple enclosure of Hindu temples. Serves as an entrance to the temple complex.
• Linga (Lingam)- a phallic symbol that looks like an unfinished circle, from the center of which a stone rod protrudes vertically - the symbol of the god Shiva.
• Phnoma - hill or mountain.
• Prasat - tower.
• Preah is sacred.
• Wat - temple or pagoda.

Temples of Angkor

The temples of Angkor are perhaps the most impressive place throughout Southeast Asia. The ancient Khmer kings spared no expense to outdo their predecessors, and each successive temple was bigger, better, and more elegant than the last.

The gem of a visit to Angkor is the magnificent temple of Angkor Wat (Angkor Wat). The profile of its spiers has practically become a symbol of Cambodia. Angkor Wat consists of five central towers of shrines, three rectangular galleries, increasing in height towards the center, surrounded by a 190 m wide moat of water. The overall profile imitates a lotus bud. From the entrance gate, on the western side, an alley with a fence decorated with seven-headed snakes leads to the Temple.

The first gallery, this is the outer wall above the moat, has square columns on the outer side and closed walls on the inner side. The ceiling between the pillars of the outer facade is decorated with rosettes in the form of a lotus, and the inner one is decorated with figures of dancers. The bas-reliefs on the walls of the three galleries depict scenes from various mythological stories and historical events. Here you can see scenes from the battles of the Ramayana and Mahabharata, the image of the army of Suryavarman II, the churning of the ocean by demons and gods, the victory of Vishnu over demons and scenes of various mythical battles.

From the first gallery a long alley leads to the second. You can climb the platform by stairs, decorated on both sides with figures of lions. The inner walls of the second gallery are covered with images of apsaras, celestial maidens.

The third gallery covers five Towers, which crown the highest terrace. The very steep stairs make it difficult to ascend to the realm of the gods. The walls of this gallery are carved with motifs of snakes, the bodies of which end in the mouths of lions.

The Temple Stones, as smooth as polished marble, were laid without any adhesive mortar. The building material is sandstone, which was brought from Mount Kulen, a quarry about 40 km to the northeast. Almost all surfaces, columns and even roof lintels are carved in stone.

The Indian Archaeological Society, between 1986 and 1992, carried out restoration work at Angkor. The temple is part of the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Angkor Thom is a great city surrounded by a high eight-meter wall. Each side of the wall is 3 km long, outside the wall is protected by a wide 100-meter moat filled with water. It is believed that during the heyday of the empire, about a million people lived here. Angkor Thom was built by King Jayavarman VII (1181-1218) after he recaptured Angkor from the Cham warriors who captured it. Angkor Thom can be accessed through one of the five large gates, each gate leading to a bridge built over a moat. It is best to enter through the most beautiful southern gate. There are 108 stone sculptures on the bridge, guarding the city, 54 devatas on the right (deities), left 54 ​​asura (demon). Devatas and asuras supported the many-headed naga (snake)- Khmer symbol of the rainbow, the bridge between earth and heaven. In front of a row of statues are nagas, whose seven heads are ready to pour out deadly poison. Above the gate there are four stone faces looking in different directions.

bayon

Bayon - a temple complex in the center of Angkor Thom, built in honor of Jayavarman VII. The temple has three levels and is surrounded by three walls. The main part of the decor of the temple is the image of household and Everyday life Khmer. There is also a blank wall 4.5 meters high, which depicts scenes of Jayavarman VII's victory over the Chams in the battle on Tonle Sap Lake.

In 1925, the temple was recognized as a Buddhist sanctuary, and in 1928, thanks to the efforts of F. Stern and J. Sedes, it was correctly dated.

In 1933, a Buddha statue was found in the foundation well, in whose features there was an outward resemblance to Jayavarman VII and which, during the Brahminist restoration (immediately after the death of Jayavarman VII) was defiled. It has been restored and installed on a terrace in the east of Khleang South.

Main article:

Bapuon

After enjoying the wonderful atmosphere of Bayon, you can go to the neighboring Bapuon temple (Baphuon). For a long time, only a construction site could be seen here. Only two years ago, this ancient Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva was opened to the public. Several decades of restoration work in the temple was called "assembling one of the most difficult puzzles" in the world.

In ancient times, Bapuon Temple was one of the most beautiful buildings in Angkor. However, by the early 1950s, it was on the verge of complete destruction. A restoration team led by French archaeologists decided that the only way to save the temple was to take it apart to strengthen the foundation and then reassemble the building. In the early 60s, the project was launched and Bapuon was dismantled. During the deconstruction, the blocks of the temple were transferred to the surrounding jungle, each block was numbered. In the mid-1970s, the Khmer Rouge came to power and work stopped. As it turned out later, the Khmer Rouge destroyed the documentation for dismantling the temple, and there was no information left in what order to put 300,000 stone blocks. The task was the most difficult - there were no two blocks that would be identical, each stone could only lie in its place. The architects had to rely only on numerous photographs and memories of Cambodian workers. The work was further complicated by the fact that at a later time, in the 10th-16th centuries, a 60-meter unfinished Buddha statue was carved into the wall of the second level, violating the uniform style of the temple. One way or another, today the giant puzzle has been assembled and the main work on the temple has been completed. True, there are still some finishing works left, part of the temple is still covered with scaffolding, this prevents it from being photographed.

A steep staircase with very high steps leads to the top of the temple. If you decide to climb up, do it carefully.

North of Bapuon is the famous Elephant Terrace. (Elephant Terrace), a thick wall 320 meters long, along which images of elephants, lions and garudas are carved - mythical half-humans, half-birds. You can climb the wall and walk along the top or look at the images below. It is better, if time permits, to do both - the images from the inside of the wall, which are only visible from above, are no less interesting. At one time, the terrace served as a platform from which the king and the invited public could observe official ceremonies and conduct a review of the troops. Also on the terrace were traces of pavilions in which the king could receive delegations. There are 5 massive arched entrances leading to the terrace from the Royal Square: three in the central part and one at each end. The eastern and western terraces are decorated with bas-reliefs and statues of garudas and lions, they support the terrace in the manner of the Atlanteans. At Angkor Wat, on the bas-relief of heaven and hell, the same figures support the heavenly palaces. The northern and southern sides are decorated with life-size bas-reliefs of elephants with mahouts. A small Buddha carved on the wall of the central section confirms that the terrace is the work of the Buddhist king Jayavarman VII. The central staircase is decorated in the same way as the gates of Angkor Thom - three elephant heads with trunks forming pillars are crowned with lotuses. The Elephant Terrace has an unusual relief: somewhere the figures protrude quite a bit, and somewhere they protrude very strongly. In some places, the trunks form columns; the remains of stairs have been preserved. This is an impressive sight, the only problem is a lot of tourists clicking cameras.

A little further north is another terrace - Terrace of the Leper King (Terrace of Leper King)- platform seven meters high, 25 meters long. The terrace is part of the Royal Square. On the three outer sides of the terrace, images of gods, demons, mythical nagas and inhabitants are carved in several rows. sea ​​depths. The best images are from the east (front) sides of the terrace. At the top stands a stone figure of a man surrounded on four sides by warriors, from which the terrace got its name. There are several versions of who is depicted on the statue and why it is a leper. According to one, this name was given to the terrace because of the spots of lichen that cover the statue. According to another, numerous chips on the face of the statue led to the idea of ​​leprosy. (they are not on the copy standing today, the original is kept in the museum in Phnom Penh). There is a theory that the statue actually depicted one of the two Cambodian kings who had leprosy. However, the Khmer never depicted kings without clothes. The most common versions are that the statue depicts the god of death Yama, the terrace was used for the cremation of members of the royal family, or that the statue symbolizes the inhabitants of the underworld of the Yakshas.

Legend of the Leper King

A young king reigned in the newly built capital. He became famous in military campaigns and in governing the country, but his heart was cruel. He was hated by everyone except for the four concubines, whose whims were his law. When the women got bored with court life, they wished to go on a journey with him, and the king, without notifying anyone, left the palace. The very next day, discord broke out in the kingdom - two noble nobles began a struggle for the throne and launched a civil war. During the wanderings, the king and the concubines decided to visit a hermit who predicts the future. When the disguised king appeared before him, he guessed the high rank of the guest and said: “You were a great sovereign, but from now on you will never be called king. Two great armies are fighting to take your throne, and only you can put an end to the strife. But at the zenith of your glory and triumph, you will know the bitterness of life and a terrible fate will befall you. These words shocked the king. After a while, he entered the camp of one of the rebellious nobles, made an alliance with him and led his army. Putting another to flight, he subsequently killed the nobleman with whom he made an alliance. At the head of both armies, the king returned to the capital to restore peace. It was then that the prediction of the hermit came true. When the king was riding a horse through the city, an old woman in tatters unexpectedly plunged a dagger into the chest of the horse - it collapsed, and the old woman rushed at the king and pressed herself against him with her flabby body. The king was released from this embrace, and the woman fell, wounded by a thousand blows. The old woman took revenge, but a few years ago her daughter was kidnapped and imprisoned in the royal harem. She was a leper and infected the king. Leprosy developed rapidly, everyone left him, except for four concubines. He lost his right to the throne and had to live outside the palace, doomed to despair and starvation. In the legendary history of Cambodia, this king is identified with Prince Preah Tong, who came from India to marry the daughter of the king of Naga, he allegedly founded the first capital of Cambodia - the city of Angkor Thom.

Inside Angkor Thom there are also several small temples and chapels. An interesting one is Tep Pranam (Tep Pranam)- a large open terrace in the form of a cross with a statue of a huge Buddha sitting on a lotus in the pose "calling the earth to witness", made of stone blocks. The statue reaches a height of 6 meters and is located on a lined pedestal 1 meter high. Built from used stones, the statue has a rough appearance, the head of the Buddha, "crowned with flames", clearly belongs to a later period. The statue itself dates from the 16th century and was restored in 1950. Nearby is another restored statue of a standing Buddha in a rare “no fear” pose. Nearby is a small monastery where Buddhist nuns live.

This small Buddhist shrine in the woods north of the Terrace of the Leper King at Angkor Thom is attractive enough to warrant a bit of attention when visiting the other monuments on the west side of King's Square. Interestingly, above one gate you can find the Hindu god Indra on his three-headed elephant Airavata, and above the other - "the temptation of Mara with her army of demons" attacking the Buddha, who himself has not survived. This neighborhood is very unusual for the Khmer - it is assumed that the Buddhist images of Preah Pallilaj (Preah Pallilay) managed to escape destruction by the staunch Hindu successors of Jayavarman VII due to their proximity to Thep Pranam and the Saugatashram monastery, whose official status and proximity to the Royal Palace may have saved the precious images and given them sanctity.

Exit Angkor Thom through the south gate. Ahead, a few hundred meters away stands the 67-meter Phnom Bakeng hill (Phnom Bakheng), with the construction of the temple on top of which began the entire development of Angkor. Crowds of tourists used to come here at sunset to take pictures of Angkor Wat in the setting sun. The views remain the same, but now no more than 300 people are allowed upstairs at sunset, so if you want to enjoy the sunset from above, arrive early. The staircase leading to the top is closed for repairs, you can climb up along a winding path from the south side of the hill. For $15, you can climb to the top on an elephant, but as a rule, you need to reserve a place in advance.

Construction of Ta-Keo (Ta Keo) was started in 975 by Jayavarman V (968-1001) . This is the first temple of Angkor built of sandstone. The temple is dedicated to Shiva. For unknown reasons, probably due to the death of the king, he was left unfinished and unpainted - it seems that he escaped from an underground cave, shattering the surrounding jungle. It is known that the temple was originally called Hemasringagiri - "Mountain of Golden Peaks", possibly prasat (towers) the temple was planned to be covered with gold. Ta-Keo is the modern name meaning "tower of crystal".

According to tradition, the main temples were built in the center of the royal city, Jayavarman V broke the tradition by building Ta-Keo not in the center of his capital, but to the north - near East Baray. With a bar (body of water) the temple is connected by an alley for processions with two rows of columns. The temple itself is a 22-meter rectangular pyramid. Conceived as the embodiment of the five peaks of Mount Meru, Ta-Keo has five prasats located in the center of its main tier, and is surrounded by a now dry moat, symbolizing the ocean.

On the first level, on a high plinth, there is a fence measuring 120x105 meters and a blank wall with axial gopuras (gate towers), the main one facing east. The two rectangular buildings are preceded by porticos parallel to the east wall.

The second level rises to a height of 5.6 meters - there is a continuous gallery measuring 79x73 meters with a false stepped brick vault, blind windows taken away by columns from the outside and open windows with columns from the outside. Gopuras are built into the walls with corner towers. The gallery, formed by older rectangular buildings, cannot be entered, testifying to its purely symbolic purpose. Inside the enclosure, two rectangular buildings line the eastern wall, with two "libraries" flanking the driveway. In order to make room for these buildings, the eastern side of the terrace was made wider than all the others. Libraries have an interesting structure: inside they have only one room, but outside, thanks to two lowered semi-cylindrical vaults, resting on the walls around the perimeter, a kind of nave and two aisles are formed. Compared to Angkor's other ornate temples, Ta Keo looks spartan, but that doesn't detract from its unique atmosphere. Steps lead to the very top of the pyramid of the temple. Each step has a height of about 40 cm, while about 10 cm wide, so that the foot can only be placed sideways, holding on to the upper steps. And so 22 meters - the climb is not for the faint of heart, but we strongly advise you to climb up. It is not known whether the Cambodians chose any energy nodes for the construction of their temples, but the feeling of an amazing atmosphere and closeness to the sky is indescribable here. At some point, it becomes unclear whether it is necessary to descend from here back to earth ...

Ta-Prom

Kipling was describing some abandoned temple in India, but this description is just perfect for the Ta-Prom temple. (Ta Prohm)- a huge temple-monastery, swallowed up by the jungle. Of all the temples of Angkor, Ta-Prom is the most poetic, with the most amazing atmosphere created by huge trees that wrap around walls that have sprouted through stones and hang over towers. Over the centuries, the roots have grown together with the walls to such an extent that it is impossible to remove the trees without the buildings collapsing. Ta Prohm was built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII as a Buddhist temple. The territory of Ta-Prom is very large, like the territory of Angkor Wat, but the architecture of the temple is completely different from other temples of Angkor. It consists of a chain of one-story long buildings, interconnected by through passages and galleries. In fact, this temple-monastery is a series of concentric galleries with towers and many additional buildings, surrounded by powerful walls. It is known from various sources that there were 39 prasats, 566 stone and 288 brick structures in the temple, in which there were 260 statues of gods.

Many passages are littered with stones and are inaccessible. The uniqueness of Ta-Prom lies in the fact that many ancient inscriptions are carved on the stones here - more than in any other Angkorian temple. On a stone stele, now in the Angkor National Museum, it is written that at the best of times 3140 villages belonged to the temple, 79,365 people worked in the temple, including 18 high priests, 2800 clerks and 615 dancers. More than 12,000 people constantly lived inside the temple. In place of the forest that surrounds the temple today, there was once a large, bustling city, and many treasures were kept in the treasuries of the temple. Now all this is hard to believe, because most of the buildings have turned into ruins. Stones and trees are so intertwined, forming a common ensemble, that sometimes you begin to doubt what served as the basis in this complex - a stone or a tree. There are two varieties of trees: large - banyan (Ceibapentandra) characterized by thick, pale brown roots with a knotty structure, and the smaller one is the strangler fig tree (Ficus gibbosa) With big amount thin, smooth and gray roots. Usually the seed of the tree falls into a gap in the masonry of the building and the roots grow down to the ground. The roots work their way between the masonry and, as they grow thicker, actually become the frame of the building. When a tree dies or falls during a thunderstorm, the building collapses with it.

French Far East School (Ecole Frangaise d "Extreme-Orient), which is rebuilding Angkor, decided to leave the temple in its "natural state" as an example of how most of Angkor's temples looked when they were opened in the 19th century. Yet Ta-Prom had to be fairly thoroughly cleared of the jungle in order to prevent further destruction and make it possible to visit the temple. To see a truly jungle-conquered temple, visit Beng Mealea Temple (Beng Mealea).

One of the interesting mysteries of Ta-Prom is the image of a stegosaurus carved on the wall, which guides like to lead to. Few people know that there is another image of a dinosaur here, it is almost impossible to find it without a guide, and only experienced guides can show it. Where the ancient Khmers could see the dinosaur and how it ended up on the wall, no one can explain. Ta Prohm's most popular tourist spot is the fig tree roots courtyard where Lara Croft: Tomb Raider was filmed. At this point, the main character picks a jasmine flower and falls into the ground. It would be ideal to walk along Ta-Prom when there are no dense masses of tourists around. Unfortunately, this is almost impossible. The only chance is to come here right at dawn and be the first or be here just before closing, when most tourists are busy contemplating the sunset.

Preah Can

One of Jayavarman VII's largest projects, Preah Kan (Preah Khan), was much more than just a temple - it was a Buddhist university with over a thousand teachers, surrounded big city. As in Ta-Prom, a stele with information about the temple was found here: the inscriptions reveal the history of its foundation and purpose. The Royal Palace of Yasovarman II previously stood on this site, and the inscription on the stele about the "lake of blood" recalls that the temple was built on the site of a major battle with the Chams, which prevented the capture of Angkor - the king of the Chams was killed in that battle. The city was named Nagara Jayasri in honor of King Jayasri, who became famous in this battle. (in Sanskrit, nagara means "city"), and the modern name Preah-Kan - "Sacred Sword" - is a translation of the name Jayasri from Sanskrit.

If Ta-Prom was dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII, then Preah Kan five years later, in 1191, was dedicated to the king's father, Dharanin-dravarman. A statue of the bodhisattva Lokeshvara was created from it. There were 430 minor deities in other chapels in the city. Behind the entrance alley with pillars is a naga bridge, exactly the same as the one that crosses the ditch of Angkor Thom - the bodies of two giant naga snakes on either side of the dam hold a row of devatas (demigods) left and asuras (demons) on right. Unfortunately, the temple's relatively remote location allowed treasure hunters to steal their heads. In general, this kind of giant figures resembles the famous scene in the bas-relief of Angkor Wat "Churning the Milky Ocean". As in Angkor Thom, the nagas take us across the moat - it is likely that here they symbolize the bridge between the world of people and the gods.

The eastern tower of the outer fence has three entrances, the central entrance is the largest, a cart could pass through it. On the walls are magnificent stone statues of giant garudas, who hold in their hands by the tail a naga serpent - their traditional enemy. These 5-meter figures are located at 50-meter intervals around the entire perimeter of the fourth environment - there are 72 of them in total, the largest garudas are located at the corners. The gopura of the third enclosure is the largest in Angkor. In front of it is a large cruciform terrace with balustrades of nagas and lions. On the right, the so-called House of Fire is one of the 121 chapels built by Jayavarman VII along the main roads of the empire. All the chapels are built the same way, oriented west to east, with towers on the western exits and windows on the south sides only. From their names on the engravings, one can understand that they were related to the arks with the sacred flame and, possibly, served as staging posts on a ritual journey. The gopura of the third enclosure is the most richly decorated. Its three widely spaced towers and small pavilions at either end are connected by colonnaded galleries on the outer sides. The length of the gopura is 100 meters, there are five entrances in total, as well as a gallery on the left side. The entrance was guarded by two demon guards, today only one of them remains - only the surviving pedestal reminds of the second. Two giant beautiful trees grow between the central and southern towers, their trunks are located at an angle to each other. The trees are very old - there is a great danger that they will fall and seriously damage the masonry.

Immediately behind the gopura, just like in Ta-Prom, there is a large building - the Hall of Dancers (now without a roof). The building consists of four small courtyards, each surrounded by 24 columns, and together they form a gallery. The building got its name from the bas-reliefs of the Apsaras depicted in the dance. Pay attention to the empty niches above the bas-reliefs of dancers. Here at one time there were carved statuettes of Buddhas, they were destroyed during the reign of Jayavarman VIII, the restorer of Hinduism, along with thousands of others throughout Angkor. Inside the galleries of the second enclosure, let your eyes adjust to the darkness and you can admire the finely carved garudas. In the vestibule to the west of the sanctuary there is a lingam - the symbol of Shiva, installed here, probably in the second half of the 13th century.

Immediately behind the gopura of the second enclosure is a small temple of Vishnu with a long pedestal at the eastern entrance, on the pedestal there are holes for three statues and a spout for the ritual of consecrating water, like on a linga. The inscription on the doorpost states that the missing statues depicted Rama, Lakshmana and Sita, and the side surface of the same doorway is decorated with carvings. The west pediment depicts a scene in which Krishna lifts Mount Govardhana. Further, three small rectangular temples surround the temple of the Buddha: the northern one is dedicated to Shiva, the southern one is dedicated to deceased kings and queens, and the western one is Vishnu.

The central sanctuary, as usual, is shifted to the west. The inner walls here are dotted with small holes, which served to fasten bronze facing sheets. The engraved inscriptions of the temple claim that more than 1500 tons were used. In the center is a small stupa added around the 16th century. In the morning, at a certain angle, you can achieve the illusion that the top of the stupa is dazzlingly glowing. Initially, there was a statue made from the father of Jayavarman VII - Jayavarmeshwar, it was probably destroyed by Jayavarman VIII during the restoration of Hinduism in Angkor. As in Ta-Prom, huge trees grow here right on the walls, it is impossible to remove them without damaging the masonry. Nevertheless, Preah Can is much more cleared of the jungle than Ta Prohm.

2.5 km to the east, a narrow path leads to the temple of Neak Pean (Neak Pean), translated "Coiled Serpents". It was built by the same Jayavarman VII in the XII century. This unusual, small by Angkor standards architectural monument with a cruciform arrangement of reservoirs and a sanctuary tower on a round island in the middle is very symbolic. The base of this building, laid out in the form of lotus petals, makes it look like a huge flower that has floated to the surface: however, this can only be seen for a short time - during the rainy season, when the pools are filled with water. At this time, the temple is reflected in the water and is unlike any other. Neak Pean is undoubtedly one of the gems of Khmer art.

There are four identical chapels inside the steps of the central pond. They served to cleanse the pilgrims, who, as can be judged from the bas-reliefs on the pediments, came here in the hope of being cured of illnesses or getting rid of misfortunes. The bas-reliefs on the walls of the chapels depict scenes where the deity stands in the center - the savior Avalokiteshvara: on the one hand, a weak patient crawls along the ground with difficulty, and on the other, the same person straightens up and regains the ability to walk. In the south you can find a number of ling (symbols of Shiva), no doubt part of the "thousand ling" described in the Preah Kan inscriptions.

In the east, a sculptural group, unfortunately badly damaged, represents a horse carrying small men hanging on it. This image is related to a legend taken from a Sanskrit text: the merchant Simhala, together with his companions, went in search of precious stones. A terrible storm sank his ship off the coast of Tamradvipa. (island of Ceylon), and the merchants became the prey of terrible cannibals who threatened to eat them. And then the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara turned into a horse, found himself on the island, and then rose into the air and carried the merchants to the Buddha, saving them from death.

East Mebon

Huge East Baray (reservoir), which surrounds East Mebon (Eastern mebon), is now dry. The reservoir was built by King Yasovarman I almost half a century earlier than the temple to regularly supply water to the new city of Yasodharapura and was 7.5 km long and 1830 meters wide. Steles engraved with Sanskrit verses were erected in each corner of the barai, proclaiming the patronage of Ganges, the goddess of the sacred river Ganges in India. Barai was filled with water from the nearby Roluos River. A rather non-standard construction method is interesting - the reservoir was not dug into the ground, instead walls were poured - this is how a huge “pool” turned out.

King Rajendravarman decided to build a temple on the island. East Mebon is not actually a "temple-mountain", despite its similarity. The visibility of the height is due to the fact that the water has left the reservoir surrounding it before, exposing a powerful five-meter base. The temple ends with a rather modest platform with five towers. In pairs, around the surroundings, there are eight small brick towers with interesting lintels with leafy ornaments and octagonal stone columns. Built by the king's architect Kavindrarimathan (only the Khmers left us the names of their architects), the main deity of the temple - Rajendreshvara was consecrated on Friday, January 28, 953 at about 11 am, as evidenced by the corresponding inscription. Since the temple stood on an island, there was no need for fences, ditches and passages along the dams; instead, four piers were built on the foundation on the cardinal points. The outer enclosure, 108x104 meters, is walled with a cutout in the middle of each side to provide enough space between the jetties and the four gopuras. The enclosure is surrounded by a series of long galleries. The next level of internal fencing is a 2.4-meter laterite terrace. Its low walls are also cut out, giving room for the northern, eastern and southern gopuras. In the open space between the inner wall of the encirclement and the central platform, eight small brick towers and five laterite buildings stand in pairs, on the cardinal points - three facing west and two facing east. The central platform, 3 meters high, is lined with sandstone and bears the east-facing brick towers of the sanctuaries. The central tower, as usual, is larger than the others and stands on a two-meter platform.

Behind the eastern gopura, made of laterite and stone, on both sides are the remains of a series of long galleries, the gallery is best preserved on the south side. All galleries were built of laterite with balustraded windows and tiled roofs. On the next terrace, two elephants are standing in the corners, looking out - they are made of monolithic stone. Eight almost identical elephants stand just outside the walls, at the corners of both fences. To get to them, one must climb the stairs leading to the gopura of the interior, turn left along the ledge to the door and follow the elephant in the southeast corner.

Buildings on the east side have all the hallmarks of "libraries" - this is indicated by their position in the corners, orientation to the west and size. It looks like they originally had brick vaults. The western doorposts of the building in the northeast corner are decorated with two elephants sprinkling Lakshmi with water from their trunks. On the lintel of the eastern door of the western gopura is depicted Narasimha, an avatar of Vishnu in the form of a lion tearing the king of the asuras. Of particular interest in the towers are the lintels and false doors in the north, west and south. On the central tower, the eastern lintel depicts Indra on the three-headed elephant Airavata, and on the western one, Varuna, the guardian of the West, along with figures holding lotuses. The southern lintel depicts the god of death, Yama, on a buffalo. On southeast tower, in which there is a statue of Brahma, on the northern lintel, a monster devours an elephant. Ganesha is depicted on the eastern side of the northwestern tower. Not far from East Mebon, there is a temple similar to it, Pre-Rup. The building itself is not so interesting, but wonderful views open from its top, this is a great place to watch the sunset.

Rulos group of temples

The Rulos complex is located southeast of the main Angkor complex. Centuries before Angkor, King Jayavarman II (802-850) founded the first capital of the Khmer Empire Hariharalaya on this site.

Construction of Indratataka ("Pond of Indra") in Hariharalaya, around the temple of Lolei, where the waters of the river Rulos flowed, allowed a constant supply of water rice fields and various temple complexes adjoining settlements, where, according to rough estimates, at least 15,000 people lived. The waters of Indratataka were channeled into canals around the temples of Preah Koh, Bakong, Preah Monti, near the last temple, the palace of Jayavarman II's successor, Indravarman I, may have been built. the beginning of the era of classical Khmer art. Before the construction of Roulos, even for the construction of religious buildings, only light (and short lived) Construction Materials.

Build a Hindu temple bakong (Bakong) King Jayavarman III began, but he did not have time to finish it during his lifetime. The temple was completed and consecrated by his successor Indravarman I in 881. The five tiers of the pyramid of the temple and other elements symbolize the sacred Mount Meru, and the temple itself was dedicated to the god Shiva. A stele erected at the founding of the temple records the consecration in 881 of its linga, Sri Indreshrava. Despite the fact that Ak-Em temple is on south coast West Baray was built earlier, Bakong is considered the first real "temple-mountain" - partly because it is the first such structure made of sandstone, and also because it is larger and structurally more complex. Bakong is the largest and most interesting temple in the Rulos group. Its dimensions are very significant: 900x700 meters, inside there are two moats and three concentric fences. The outer ditch, on average 3 meters deep, is the boundary of the outer, third enclosure without a gopura, but with the remains of two sidewalks leading one to the east, the other to the north. Between the outer and inner moats are 22 evenly spaced brick towers, not all of them finished. The second fence, from which only laterite ruins have survived to this day, formed the border of a plot about 25 meters wide - servants lived here. There is currently a Buddhist monastery in the northeast corner of this site. The whole complex is surrounded by a moat 59 meters wide, forming a rectangle measuring 315x345 meters. From east to west, the ditch is crossed by two dams - the continuation of two of the four axial roads of Hariharalaya. The roads run between rows of giant stone nagas, the forerunners of the magnificent balustrades of the classical era.

Eight small square brick buildings remained at the corners of the inner enclosure, one at the northwest and southwest corners with entrances to the east, and two each at the northeast and southeast corners with an entrance oriented to the west. The ventilation holes in them led some researchers to the idea that cremations were carried out in these prasats. The other two are later, long "libraries" made of stone, oriented from east to west. Immediately after the east entrance are the remains of two other long "libraries" of laterite, oriented north-south, and traces of another, oriented east-west in the southeast corner.

The pyramid itself, almost square in plan, has a clear profile. Each of the five tiers represents the kingdoms of mythical creatures, from bottom to top: nagas, garudas, rakshasas (demons), yakshas (tree deities) and finally devat (demigods). The pyramid is 67x65 meters at the bottom and 20x18 meters at the top, decreasing with each step. Four gopuras lead to four staircases, on each landing the next march is preceded by an elegant semicircular threshold, on both sides there are statues of lions. To correct visual perception, the height and width of the stairs imperceptibly decrease as they rise - the craftsmen applied the law of proportional reduction, which until then was used only in the construction of prasat roofs. Each terrace of the pyramid is slightly recessed to the west, again to correct perspective.

Elephant statues at the corners of the first three steps of the pyramid are reminiscent of the legendary animals that support the earth. They are designed to convey their power and stability to the building. In addition, the elephant was the mount of the god Indra, as well as earthly rulers. The fourth terrace contains 12 sandstone towers, each of which probably contained a linga. Remains of bas-reliefs are still visible on the wall of the fifth and last terrace.

The pyramid is crowned with a tower of a much later period. (XII century), similar in style to the towers of Angkor Wat, with three false doors and one real. The goddesses carved in niches on both sides of the doors are badly damaged, since this tower was almost completely destroyed and restored only in 1941, but in some places they are still well preserved. The entrance to the shrine is guarded by lions in the traditional Khmer style. The tower is crowned with a dome in the form of a lotus.

Bakong corresponds exactly to the Hindu cosmic symbolism: the temple depicts Mount Meru, the first ditch is the cosmic sea from which this mountain arose, and the dry patches of land are the land inhabited by people, which, in turn, is surrounded by mountain ranges (city walls) and another sea (second ditch).

This elegant little brick temple with six towers and lime-mortar stucco was the first shrine built by Indravarman I in the 9th-century capital of Angkor, Hariharalaya. Its surrounding moat is so large in relation to the temple that there is a version according to which it was part of the royal palace, traces of which have not yet been found.

On a superbly preserved stele at the base of the temple, after the traditional eulogy of Shiva, a brief genealogy of Indravarman I is given, followed by a eulogy in Sanskrit for the "prince's right hand" which says, "Long, strong and fearsome in battle, his shining sword falls on his enemies, conquering kings in every direction. Invincible, he calmed down only when his two enemies showed their backs and, valuing their lives, offered themselves to his protection. The inscription is accompanied by a reference to the cult of Devaraja, or "god-king" on Mount Mahendra. (Phnom Kulen) and ends with a mention of the installation in 879 of three statues of Shiva and Devi. The other side, written in Khmer, dates from a later year, 893, and describes offerings to the deities of Parameshwar and Prithivindreshwar. The temple begins in the west with a laterite pavement that separates the surrounding moat. Once upon a time, two parallel galleries passed on both sides, but only the foundation has survived from them to this day. A small terrace leads to the gopura of the second environment.

The sandstone plinth forms a common platform for six towers. On the east side, it is cut by three stairs, the side walls of which are richly decorated with guards. (dvarapalami) and dancers (apsaras) and guarded by seated lions. In front of each staircase lies Nandine. There is one central staircase on the west side. The brick towers of the sanctuaries are arranged in two rows and vary in size. In the eastern, first row, the middle tower is higher than the others and is shifted slightly back. As usual, all six towers of the sanctuary are open to the east. Each tower has four tiers. The towers are covered with lime plaster with sculptural bas-reliefs - it is amazing how, after 11 centuries of existence, they have survived to this day. Note the sandstone false doors with superb octagonal columns on the east side - they are undoubtedly one of the finest examples of Khmer art.

three prasat (towers) in the background, similar to the towers of the first row, but somewhat lower and intended for female deities. They are entirely made of brick, except for the sandstone door frames. In niches in the recesses of the walls of the prasat of male ancestors, statues of young armed dvarapalas are placed. (guards) and statues of devatas (demigods) guarding the prasats of female ancestors.

The sanctuary was intended for male deities. The corner piers are richly decorated, guards stand in the blind arches. (dvarapala). Here, unlike those in Bakong, they are unique in style - made of sandstone and inserted into the brickwork. The northern prasat holds the Rudreshvara linga, the emblem of Rudravarman, the maternal grandfather of Indravarman I, and the southern prasat holds the Prithivindresvara linga, the emblem of Indravarman I's father. (devi means "goddess"). Like Bacong, only a few sculptures survive at Preah Co. Of these, only Shiva in the southeast corner tower and the headless goddess in the rear central tower were left in the temple. Both of these statues date from the period of the temple's construction.

Loley

Another small temple in the Rulos group, Lolei (Lolei), was built by the successor of Indravarman I, Yasovarman I (889-910) on a small island in the Indratataki reservoir - today this place is rice fields. All that remains of the temple are four towers, following the design of the Preah Co towers. Sanskrit inscriptions on the doorways say that the king dedicated the temple to his parents and maternal royal ancestors.

The buildings of the temple are divided along the central axis, oriented from east to west. Buildings south of the axis were dedicated to Shiva, while those north of the axis were dedicated to Vishnu. Later, in the 12th century, Banteay Srei was "re-dedicated" to Shiva, as evidenced by a found tablet made by one of the priests.

Unlike the main temples in Angkor, Banteay Srei was not royal. It was built by one of the advisers of King Rajendravarman II - Yajnavaraha on the land donated to him by the king on the banks of the Siem Reap River. As always happened, a settlement of ordinary people surrounded this temple, and thus was formed small town called Iswarapura. Discovered by the French only in 1914, Banteay Srey gained notoriety when, in 1923, the writer André Malraux, who later became Minister of Culture under de Gaulle's government, stole four apsaras from it. He was immediately caught and the stolen parts were returned to the temple. It was this temple that was first restored in 1931-1936 using the anastylosis method. The method, developed by Dutch restorers in Java, involves the restoration of destroyed objects using only original materials. Thanks to the success of this method in Banteay Srei, the French archaeological service involved in the restoration of Angkor began to apply it everywhere in the restoration of other treasures of the ancient city. On the one hand, the task at Banteay Srei was made easier by the small size of the buildings, small blocks of stone carved from durable sandstone, which retained its clear carvings with an abundance of decoration. On the other hand, the restoration process was complicated by the remoteness of the temple, minimal funds and the inexperience of the workers who learned in the process.

To eliminate the threat of damage to the temple due to flooding, a drainage system was made under a joint Cambodian-Swiss project in 2000-2003. Measures were also taken to prevent damage to the walls of the temple by trees. Unfortunately, the temple was constantly exposed and is still exposed to theft and vandalism. By the end of the 20th century, the authorities replaced the original statues with exact copies, but this did not stop the thieves - copies began to steal. The statue of Shiva, placed in the National Museum in Phnom Penh for safety, was tried to be stolen directly from the museum itself.

After the discovery in 1936 in the eastern gopura of the stele of the foundation of the temple, it became clear that Banteay Srei was designed as a whole, this is also confirmed by the uniformity of style. Engraved in 968, the first year of the reign of Jayavarman V, the inscription gives the start date for the construction of the temple: April-May 967, along with the positions of the sun, moon, and planets. This was the last year of the reign of Rajendravarman II. After the traditional prayer to Shiva, the text of the stele contains a eulogy to the ruler Jayavarman V and his guru Yajnavarah, who founded Banteay Srei together with his younger brother, installing the Shiva linga in the central sanctuary. Other inscriptions engraved on the doorposts mention the placement of another linga in the south shrine and a statue of Vishnu in the north. The temple is greeted from the east by a laterite cruciform gopura with sandstone columns and fine decorations.

The pediment on this gopura depicts Indra on a three-headed elephant and, in addition to the beautiful pink hue of the stone, gives the temple a rich decoration. Banteay Srei is surrounded by three walls measuring respectively 95x110 meters, 38x42 meters and 24x24 meters. A wide pavement leads from the gate to the third fence, decorated on both sides with posts - in former times they were destroyed every year by wild elephants. On the left side of the pavement on the pediment of the "library" is a plot known as "Umamaheshvara", in which Shiva holds a trident and rides the bull Nandina with his wife Uma. On the right side is a “library” with an excellent pediment, where Vishnu, appearing in the form of a lion Narasimha, tears apart the asura king Hiranyahasipu at the moment when he was about to kill his son, a great devotee of the Supreme Personality of Godhead.

On the pediment of the eastern tower of the second enclosure, under a garuda holding a branch with leaves, two elephants pour water from pots on Lakshmi, the goddess of beauty and fertility, the wife of the god Vishnu. Inside the third, very last, central fence, on the "library" to the right of the entrance - the famous bas-relief of the pediment depicts an equally famous story from the Ramayana, how Ravana, depicted as a multi-armed and multi-headed rakshas, ​​tries to shake Mount Kailash, where Shiva lives. The mountain itself is depicted as a multi-tiered pyramid against a stylized forest background. At the top sits Shiva with his wife Uma, squatting beside him in a delightful pose. Shiva presses down on the mountain with his right foot to stop the shaking. The second row depicts clearly alarmed priests and pilgrims pointing fingers at Ravana. On the right is a praying female figure. On the third row worshipers with the heads of elephants, lions, birds and horses. On both sides of the monkey in exquisite headdresses. The lower tier is occupied by animals that flee in horror from Ravana.

On the pediment of the “library” on the left is another famous bas-relief, this time a plot from another epic, the Mahabharata. Krishna and Arjuna, who were resting on the banks of the Yamuna River near the Khandava forest, were approached by a brahmin who turned the god Agni (God of fire). Further options diverge: either Agni said that he wants to burn the Khandava forest to eat its vegetation and animals, or he wants to destroy the Takshaka snake, or Krishna and Arjuna wanted this forest to be burned to found the city of Indraprastha. One way or another, Indra, on the three-headed elephant Airavata, prevents the fire by releasing torrents of rain to protect his friend, the snake Takshak, who lives in the forest. Krishna and Arjuna, in turn, oppose Indra, blocking the rain with a hail of magical arrows, and block the exit from the forest for its inhabitants on both sides.

On the western side of the same "library" - Krishna kills King Kamsa. This scene is taken from the holy book Srimad Bhagavatam and takes place in a palace - its image gives us an idea of ​​what beautiful wooden palaces were in Angkor. The two large figures are shown in perspective, which is rare in Angkor bas-reliefs. Krishna is holding Kamsa by the hair and is about to kill him. In the corners, on horse-drawn chariots, apparently, Krishna and Arjuna, armed with bow and arrows, arrived at the palace. In the rest of the rooms, excited women are depicted watching what is happening.

The western pediment depicts a scene from the Ramayana: the battle between Valin and Sugriva. Valin, the son of Indra, took from Sugriva, the son of Surya (sun god), the kingdom of monkeys. Rama promised to help Sugriva regain the kingdom in exchange for the help of the monkey army led by Hanuman against Ravana's army in order to free his wife, Sita. During the duel, Sugriva won, but Valin resorted to a trick - he pretended to be dead and was ready to deliver a mortal blow to Sugriva, and then Rama (right with bow) pierced him with his arrow. Behind Rama stands his brother Lakshman. Magnificent in expressiveness, the bas-relief of the dying Sugriva in the arms of his wife Rati is depicted in Angkor Wat. Inside, closer to the southern wall, in a doorway with three geese, there is a most beautiful apsara, one might say, a symbol of the beauty of Banteay Srei and partly of the whole of Angkor.

Beng Melea

Beng Melea (Beng Melea) interesting primarily because it was not cleared, like almost all the temples of Angkor, but left in the condition in which it was found. The jungle has completely taken over the temple. Here you can climb roofs, ride vines and feel like an inhabitant of the jungle (which one, choose yourself). Beng Melea built during the reign of King Suryavarman II (1113-1150) . Created in the same style, but a little earlier than Angkor Wat, Beng Melea may have served as its prototype. Despite the fact that there are many carved vaults and doorways, there are no bas-reliefs in the complex, and the carving itself is quite rare. When the temple was active, the walls may have been covered with frescoes. In those days, Beng Melea stood at the crossroads of several important roads to Angkor, Koh Ker and North Vietnam. The temple covers an area of ​​​​one square kilometer, it is covered with jungle and very little visited - this creates the feeling of a "lost world". The trees here grow straight out of the ruined towers and galleries, these are probably the most impressive views of the “trees in the temple”. Around the temple of Beng Melea a large ditch was dug, overgrown with lotuses, like burdocks...

Ko Ker

Temple complex Ko-Ker (Koh Ker)- the most distant temple from Angkor in this region. From Siem Reap, it is located at a distance of about 100 km on the same road as Beng Melea. The temple is the remains of one of the capitals of the Khmer empire of the Angkor period. In 928, King Jayavarman IV, who usurped the throne, founded a new capital, Ko Ker, 100 km from Angkor. The king was rich and powerful, he erected the impressive royal city of Ko-Ker, Brahmin monuments, temples and towers, built a huge barai (pool-reservoir) Rahal. Jayavarman IV ruled Koh Ker until his death in 941. His son Harshavarman II stayed here for another three years before returning the capital to Angkor. The Ko-Ker complex has not been restored. There are no crowds of tourists here, and therefore one can try to imagine what such structures were like before they were cleared from the jungle absorbing them.

The main ruins of the complex are Prasat Thom, an impressive 7-tier pyramid and temple complex, towers and small temples near the road and numerous lingams. An interesting part of Ko-Ker is the sanctuary of Shiva. Here stands a gigantic, human-sized lingam - the largest in Cambodia. By the way, the lingam can be used as a compass: the open channel of the lingam always points to the north.

The main building of the complex is a large seven-tiered pyramid Prasat-Thom. There are many legends around her. The Khmers believe that the shaft in the center of the pyramid is the link between the earth and the underworld. By order of the king, guilty subjects were thrown into it. It is said that a Khmer peasant who fell into a mine in 1996 somehow got out with a ten kilogram gold bar. After this incident, the peasant lost his mind and could not explain where he got the gold from, or how he got out. Later, in 2004, two archaeologists again tried to get into this mine, and, judging by the legend, one of them was found dead a few hours later with completely gray hair, and the other completely disappeared. Also, according to the testimony of local residents, marked coconuts thrown into this well float up the next day in the Andomprey river basin, 3 km away. And no one can hear the sound of such a nut falling - no matter how much you listen. Entrance to the pyramid is prohibited, the dilapidated staircase leading to it is closed. However, if you really want to try your luck, give the guard $5 and he will look the other way. However, without special equipment to go down into the mine still will not work.

Walking around the sanctuary of Ko-Ker, exploring the ruins and untrodden paths, be extremely careful. A proven path leads past all the main objects, it is better not to go deep into the thickets - although no one has been blown up by a mine for a very long time, it is believed that the complex has not been completely cleared of mines after the Pol Pot terror. Entrance ticket to Koh Ker costs $10.

Neighborhood of Angkor

Phnom Kulen

Phnom Kulen (Pnom Kulen)- a small mountain range 50 km north of Siem Reap and 25 km from Banteay Srei. Its highest point is 487 m. If you are planning a trip to Phnom Kulen, keep in mind that the mountain road is so narrow that two cars cannot pass, so all transport goes up until 11 am and back after 11. Taxi to Phnom Kulen and back will cost $ 30-40.

During the construction of Angkor, stones were mined here in quarries for the construction of temples and floated on rafts along the river. Phnom Kulen is considered a holy mountain in Cambodia, the peak of the mountain is sacred place for both Hindus and Buddhists who come here as pilgrims. It is also significant to the Cambodians as the birthplace of the ancient Khmer Empire, it was on Phnom Kulen that King Jayavarman II declared independence in 804. There is some controversy as to who exactly declared independence. Most believe that Cambodia was a vassal of Java, according to other scholars - Cambodia at that time was under the rule of Laos. Jayavarman II did not limit himself to the proclamation of freedom, at the same time introducing a new cult of the "king-god", also called the cult of the linga, which existed for many centuries after his death.

An interesting attraction of Phnom Kulen is the stream of a thousand Lingams, here more than a thousand small religious images are carved in stone. The uniqueness lies in the fact that the images are under water, 5 cm below the surface. This is not an accident, but the original idea of ​​​​the artist: by order of the king, the riverbed was set aside so that the craftsmen could carve the figures, and then returned to its original place. Among the particularly interesting figures is Vishnu reclining on his snake Ananta with his wife Lakshmi at his feet, a lotus flower grows from Vishnu's navel with the supreme deity Brahma.

Phnom Kulen is a national natural park with beautiful waterfalls, on the largest of which you can take a break from the Cambodian heat and swim. Played his role Phnom Kulen and in modern history. It was here that the last battles between the Khmer Rouge and the Vietnamese took place in 1979. Near the mountain is Preah Ang Thom, a 16th-century Buddhist monastery with Cambodia's largest reclining Buddha statue.

Siem Reap is one of the most major cities Cambodia. This is a calm, cozy city, spread out on the shady banks of the river of the same name. Most tourists come to Siem Reap to visit Angkor, which is only 5 km from here. But if Siem Reap used to be a quiet sleeping area for travelers, today the city has grown and offers tourists a choice of numerous hotels and restaurants with cuisines from all over the world. The name Siem Reap means "Siam Defeated". The city is named so in honor of the Khmer defeat of the Siamese (Thai) capital of Ayutthaya in the 17th century.

There are few attractions in Siem Reap. It will be interesting to coincide with a trip to Angkor to visit Angkor national museum (Angkor National Museum), which contains a wonderful collection of artifacts from the ancient city, including about a thousand Buddha images made of wood, stone and precious stones.

The French Quarter is a pleasant place to walk along the river in the southern part of the city. To the south of it is old market (Psar Chaa). In addition to looking at the stalls of merchants, here you can buy interesting souvenirs, for example, pencil "prints" of temples on rice paper, they are inexpensive, and look very nice on the wall. Behind the market, by the river, many vendors sell silk scarves and sarongs, wood carvings, silverware, and more.

An evening in Siem Reap can be spent on the bustling Pub Street (pub street) with lots of restaurants, cafes and bars. Lovers of peace and romance can walk along the river bank to the south, to the southern outskirts of the city. Intrusive taxi drivers often offer tourists trips to art schools and silk factories. The main purpose of such an excursion is to persuade travelers to buy a painting or something made of silk, and at a price much higher than that for which you can buy a similar thing in the market.

Routes

Almost all tourists, when planning a route, ask the main question: which temples to visit? There are a huge number of temples in Angkor and its environs, and it is impossible to see them all - and it is not necessary. You should not try to fit as many temples as possible into the trip - by the end of the day, the sensations will become dull, the temples will begin to merge into one and the impressions will be blurred. Better focus on the minimum program: Bayonne , Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, Ta Keo inside Angkor, Banteay Srei and Phnom Bakeng, as well as Beng Melea and Ko Ker outside of it.

Classic routes

The traditional routes around Angkor are the "small circle" and the "big circle". As practice shows, they are convenient from a geographical point of view, but not quite optimal for getting the most impressions. It is better not to stick to the classic routes, but to make your own travel plan for the most interesting temples.

To visit the distant temples of Ko Ker and Beng Melea, you can save day time. If you arrive in Ko Ker early in the morning, you will walk along it almost alone. Then you can go towards Angkor and stop by Beng Melea on the way. Please note that Khmer taxi drivers really do not like to work at night, even if you find a driver who agrees to this, the cost of a trip at night will be at least 50% more expensive. It is also possible to spend the night in a guesthouse (tourist hotel) near Ko Ker.

small circle

This 17 km route starts from the western wall of Angkor Wat and heads north past the temples of Ta-Prom-Kel (Ta Prohm Kel)(Phnom Bakheng) (beautiful view at sunset) and Baksei Chamkrong (Baksei Chamkrong) to the south entrance of Angkor Thom (Angkor Thom). On the central square of Angkor Thom behind the Bayon Temple (Bayon) the path turns east to the Gate of Victory (Victory Gate) and between the remarkably similar twin temples of Chau Sei Tevoda (Chau Say Tevoda) and Tommanon (Thommanon) follows to Ta-Keo temple (Ta Keo). At this temple, the path turns to the southeast and bypasses the dried-up reservoir East Barai (East Baray) leads to Ta-Prom Temple (Ta Prohm). Then you need to go between the huge Buddhist temple of Banteay Kdei (Banteay Kdei), surrounded by four concentric walls, and the dry basin of Sras Srang (Sras Srang), turn southwest and past the Prasat Kravan Hindu temple (Prasat Kravan, easily recognizable by its five brick towers)

A detailed historical excursion that will tell you about Angkor Wat - the legendary temple complex in Cambodia. Get ready, it will be interesting!

The religious building of Angkor Wat is the largest Hindu temple in the world. It is considered one of the most magnificent "pearls" of Angkor - the ancient capital of the powerful Khmer Empire. While on vacation in Cambodia, independent traveler You should definitely visit this mysterious and beautiful place.

Angkor Wat: history

More than ten centuries ago, the Khmer Empire (Kambujadesh) existed on the territory of Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, and Thailand. Its founder was King Jayavarman II (802-850), who united these lands through bloody wars.

The empire reaches its heyday a little later, during the reign of Suryavarman II (1113-1150). The king worshiped the Hindu god Vishnu, and Angkor Wat was erected in honor of him. The construction of the religious building lasted more than 30 years. Not only local craftsmen worked on its creation. By order of the ruler, the masters were searched all over Asia.

Sandstone was used as the main material, which was brought from a quarry located 40 km away. from the construction site. The stones were polished and stacked on top of each other. When laying no solution was used.

In those distant times, rulers were considered messengers of the gods. After the death of Suryavarman II, the temple became his tomb. Since then, the history of Angkor and its main religious monument have been inextricably linked.

The construction of the temple complex undermined the country's economy. In addition, the capital was overpopulated, at that time more than 1 million people lived in it. Water was sorely lacking, and fertile lands were depleted. During the reign of Jayavarman VII (1181-1218) there were several uprisings, as a result of which Angkor was partially destroyed.

Later, the capital was repeatedly invaded by Siamese troops. After the last invasion in 1431, Angkor finally fell into disrepair. People have left the city forever. Only the monks remained in the temples. The capital of the empire was moved to Phnom Penh. The territory of Angkor was swallowed up by tropical forests, and the buildings became home to thousands of animals. But the city did not disappear forever.

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At the beginning of the 17th century, Portuguese and Spanish travelers accidentally stumbled upon mysterious stone structures in the jungle. But for some reason, the Europeans did not attach importance to the unusual find and soon forgot about it. Ancient Angkor owes its second birth (the end of the 19th century) to the French traveler Henri Muo. He described the ancient city in detail and with admiration in his manuscripts. Crowds of researchers, scientists, historians, pilgrims and merchants rushed to Angkor.

Photo 45 years after opening: 1906

Unfortunately, not a trace remains of the former splendor of the capital. The sandstone from which the buildings were built was destroyed over time by the influence of wind, sun and water. Most of the wooden buildings were burned down by vandals during periods of hostilities. Roots and branches of trees sprouted through the walls of buildings in many places.

Thanks to the efforts of thousands of people, by the middle of the 20th century, many buildings of the city, including Angkor Wat, were restored. After the end of the civil war, the restoration of the temple complex was carried out mainly by Indian specialists. Since 1992, the unique creation of Khmer masters has been under the protection of UNESCO.

Photo 45 years after opening: 1906

The device and architecture of Angkor Wat

The temple is located in the very center of the ancient city. Angkor Wat is 1.3 km long from north to south and 1.5 km from west to east. Religious building of rectangular shape. It consists of three levels (tiers), which increase in height towards the center. In appearance, it is somewhat reminiscent of a pyramid. The levels represent the three elements: air, earth and water. The territory of the complex is surrounded by lush greenery and is reliably protected from all sides by a moat with water. The width of the moat is more than 100 m. A stone bridge is laid across it, connecting the rectangular “island” with the land. Further the road leads to the main entrance. The central gate and the front side of the structure are oriented to the west. There is also a road to the east side of Angkor Wat, but it is less visible and can be found using the services of a guide.

The entire territory of the temple has to be walked around, transport is prohibited here.

Angkor Wat is located in such a way that when looking at it from any side, only three of the five towers are always visible. This proves the skill of the architects of that time. The towers and tiers are interconnected by stairs, intersecting galleries, and covered walkways. The interior space thus formed is divided into numerous, square-shaped courtyards.

The walls of galleries and corridors, columns and stairs are covered with bas-reliefs, carvings and paintings. Ceilings are decorated with lotus images and intricate patterns. On the territory of the complex, many statues of outlandish animals, mythical heroes and real historical characters have been preserved.

The first tier is the largest, consists of several galleries and passages. The walls are decorated with numerous images. There are 8 panels here, the total length of which is more than 800 m. The main “plots” are the battles of the gods, the period of the reign of the great Suryavarman II and numerous battles for the power of the empire. Several panels are dedicated to scenes from the epics Mahabharata and Ramayana. The outer wall is made in the form of a double row of columns.

There are corner pavilions at the end of each gallery. Two pavilions are connected to the main galleries. Two more end in shallow niches in the wall. Once these recesses were also decorated with bas-reliefs, but over time they have worn out and are barely noticeable.

The gate towers of the main entrance are connected to the towers of the second tier with the help of passages. Between them are four courtyards, which fill with water during the rainy season and serve as pools. The inner walls of the galleries are made in the form of columns through which courtyards-pools are visible. On the opposite walls, between the windows with figuratively carved columns, figures of thousands of celestial dancers (apsaras) are carved. There are many statues in the long corridors.

At the intersection of the galleries (from north to south) there are corner columns with inscriptions in an unknown language. Libraries are located on both sides on the second tier, each of which has four entrances.

Angkor Wat has been added to the List of Wonders of the World

Angkor Wat is unparalleled in beauty and state of preservation. Its grandeur and magnificence surpass those of the Pharaohs, its impression is stronger than that of the Pyramids, and its artistic expressiveness can only be compared with the Taj Mahal. Angkor Wat is located 6 km (4 miles) north of Siem Reap, south of Angkor Thom. Angkor Wat can only be entered and exited through the western gate.

"You can find many photos and videos about Angkor Wat, but perhaps the best of all virtual is the panorama of Angkor Wat, made by airpano.ru"

angkor wat was built in the first half of the 12th century during the reign of King Suryavarman II in honor of the Hindu god Vishnu. The construction of the temple lasted about 30 years.

History of Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is the largest and best preserved object of the Angkor group. The perfection of its structure, balance, proportions, relief and sculpture make it one of the greatest architectural monuments in the world.

"Wat" means "temple" in Khmer. Probably this word was added to the word "Angkor" when it was occupied by Theravada followers in the 16th century. After 1432, when the city of Phnom Penh became the capital of the kingdom, Buddhist monks became responsible for Angkor Wat.

Angkor Wat was built for the burial of King Suryavarman II in it. Drawing a parallel between the setting sun and death, the temple faces west. Also in favor of this theory are the bas-reliefs, arranged from left to right in accordance with the Hindu funeral ritual.

Architectural plan of Angor Wat

When walking along Angkor Wat itself, it is very difficult to determine its architectural plan due to the huge size of the temple complex. Such complexity and beauty both attract and distract attention. From afar, Angkor Wat looks like a colossal stone massif. accessed by a long paved road.

The height of Angkor Wat from the ground to the top of the central tower is more than it might seem: 65 meters. The temple consists of three triangular or square levels (1-3). Each subsequent one is smaller and higher than the previous one.

The first and second levels are bordered by covered galleries with columns. The third level is supported by five towers - four in the corners and one in the middle. These towers are the most expressive architectural element Angkor Wat. Sometimes this form of arrangement is called quinkans. The levels rising one above the other give the towers a conical shape.

Symbolism

Angkor Wat is a miniature stone replica of the universe. and is a terrestrial model of a space device. The central tower rises in the center of the temple, symbolizing the mythical Mount Meru, located in the center of the universe. The five towers correspond to the peaks of Mount Meru. The outer wall symbolizes the mountains at the end of the world, and the moat surrounding the temple complex symbolizes the oceans.

Location of Angor Wat

Although Anggor Wat is the most photographed Khmer architectural monument photos cannot convey all its greatness. Frank Vincent wrote about this 100 years ago: “The sight of this miracle makes an indelible impression: beauty, romance, grandeur - all this must be understood and appreciated. It is impossible to look at this temple without awe, without the feeling that you soared into heaven. Probably the most impressive building in the world."

Angkor Wat covers a rectangular area of ​​208 hectares (500 acres). The territory of the temple complex is fenced with a laterite wall. The complex is surrounded by a moat, which can be crossed by a long paved sandstone road (250 m (820 ft) long, 12 m (39 ft) wide). The road serves as the main entrance to the complex. The ditch is 200 m (656 ft) wide, with a 5.5 km (3.4 mi) perimeter.

The western entrance begins with a staircase leading to a cross-shaped sandstone terrace at the base of a long paved road. On both sides of the terrace, huge stone lions sit guarding the temple. Ahead you can see the end of the paved road and the gate with three towers of various heights. These towers at the entrance partially block the view of the five towers in the central area of ​​the temple. A long passage with square columns and a curved roof extends along the moat from left to right from the tower located at the entrance. This is the magnificent façade of Angkor Wat and an example of classical Khmer architecture.

Almost 70 years ago, after visiting the terrace of Angkor Wat, Helen Churchill Kandy wrote: " Any architect would have been delighted with the harmony of the façade - an uninterrupted row of columns leading from the far corners to central entrance, where three towers with destroyed tops are located". Initially, the facade was another row of columns with a roof. Round holes in the columns testify to this.

"Before walking down the paved road, turn right, go down a couple of terrace steps and walk a couple of meters along the path. This way you can enjoy the view of all five towers of Angkor Wat. Return to the center of the terrace and walk along the main paved road towards the main part of the temple. The left side of the paved road is made of older sandstone than the right side, which was restored by the French."

In the 20s of the XX century, when Casey walked along this paved road, he noticed one feature of its structure. The slabs it consisted of were irregularly shaped, which meant they had to be chiseled to fit together. In the midday light, the road looks like a long strip of moiré. On the left side of the road, almost reaching its middle, there are two sandstone feet. They belong to one of the statues at the entrance to Angkor Thom and were brought to Angkor Wat in this century when the paved road was being repaired.

The tops of three sections of this tower - one in the center and two on the sides - have collapsed. The approaches at either end of the gallery may have served as a passageway for elephants, horses and wagons, since they are located on the lowest level.

When Helen Churchill Candy saw these passages in 1920, she noted that the idea of ​​building a passageway for elephants was very unusual. The statue of standing Vishnu (with eight arms) is to the right of the tower at the entrance. On the left, traces of the original color are visible on the ceiling of the tower. Continue west along the second path (350 m (1148 ft) long, 9 m (30 ft) wide).

On both sides there is a low balustrade resembling the body of a snake. The balustrade is supported by small columns. If you look to the west, you can see the famous panorama of Angkor Wat depicted on the Cambodian flag. Standing at this point, I want to take a picture of five wonderful domes - friends of the sky, sisters of the clouds? And understand whether you are in the real world or in a fictional fantasy. Six pairs of solemn staircases with platforms on both sides of the road lead to the courtyard.

The staircase is flanked by a continuing snake-shaped balustrade. Such a structure is sometimes referred to as a landing platform. At the end of the balustrade, a snake rushes to the sky at right angles and gracefully spreads its nine heads in the shape of a fan. In the courtyard, just beyond the middle of the paved road, are two buildings that house the library. These "precious caskets of Khmer art" are perfectly shaped.

The large central area, columns and steps are arranged in the shape of a cross. For strength, some columns were replaced with cement ones. The original column is located in front of the left building of the library. There are two reservoirs in front of the library buildings (length - 65 m (213 ft), width - 50 m (164 ft)). The pond on the left is filled with water, while the second is usually empty.

"After passing the library, but before reaching the pools, turn left and follow the road for about 40 m (131 ft) to a large tree. From this point you have an excellent view of the five towers of Angkor Wat, especially at sunset. The path leads to a cruciform terrace, known as the "Terrace of Terror. This terrace is located directly in front of the main tower at the entrance to Angkor Wat."

The terrace is characterized by supporting columns and carved designs at its base. On three sides of the terrace there are stairs, on both sides of which sit lions. Ritual dances were held here. It is possible that it was from this point that the king watched the processions and received foreign guests. In the 1920s, Casey noted: “It is impossible not to feel that just a few hours ago this place was pulsing with life. Torches burned over the altars. Priests whispered ritual prayers. Dancing girls fluttered up the stairs ... It was only an hour or two ago, no more …".

From the terrace there is a beautiful view of the first level gallery called "Bas-relief Gallery" (215 x 187m (705x614 ft)). The outer side, which is closer to the visitors, is a row of 60 columns. The inner side is a continuous wall decorated with bas-reliefs.

"At this point, you can either continue straight ahead towards the central towers, or turn right to view the Gallery of Bas-reliefs. The cruciform galleries are the link between the first and second levels. This unique architectural design consists of two covered galleries with square columns in the form of a cross "The courtyard is divided into four equal parts and decorated with ponds and stairs. Several decorative elements in these galleries are windows with balustrades, rosettes on the vaults, an apsara border under the cornices and ascetics at the base of the columns."

"Some of the columns in the galleries of this courtyard have inscriptions in Khmer and Sanskrit. On both sides of the courtyard there are two libraries that are inferior in size to the libraries near the entrance to the complex. The right library - the 1000 Buddha Gallery - once contained many images relating to to the period of decline of Angkor Wat. Only a few such images have survived to this day. The left library - the Hall of Echo - got its name due to its unusual acoustics. "

"To hear the echo, you need to go to the end of the gallery, stand in the left corner with your back to the wall, hit yourself on the chest and listen carefully. If you want to visit the library, go through the door at the end of the gallery. This library opens good view to the upper level of Angkor Wat."

"Go back to the center of the cruciform galleries and continue towards the central towers. You have to climb stairs. The outer wall of the second level gallery - the one closest to the visitors (100 x 115 m, 328 x 377 ft) - is solid and undecorated. Perhaps this was done in order to create a suitable environment for the meditations of the priests and the king."

The severity of the outer wall of the gallery of the second level is compensated by its interior decoration. The walls of the gallery are decorated with over 1500 apsaras (celestial dancers). These beautiful graceful creatures delight visitors.

When you first enter the courtyard, such a multitude of dancing female figures may seem monotonous. But if you come closer and look closely, you can see that they are all different and differ in hairstyles, attire and jewelry. These ethereal inhabitants of heaven are depicted in Angkor Wat in twos or threes.

In the 17th century, the Cambodian poet Pang wrote of the Apsaras: " Millions of graceful creatures fill you with such emotions that your eyes do not get tired, your soul is renewed, and your heart is saturated! They were not carved by human hands! They were created by the gods - living, beautiful women!"On the third level of Angkor Wat, only high priests and the king were allowed. On the third level there are no covered galleries, like on the other two, but this level is the basis for the five central towers, one of which is the most sacred image of the temple.

The height of the square base (length - 60 m) of the upper level is 13 m and rises 40 m above the second level. In the center of each side there are twelve stairs with 40 steps each. At the corners there are two more stairs with an angle of inclination of 70°, providing access to this level.

The third level is a space in the shape of a cross and is characterized by covered galleries and four paved courtyards. At the top of each staircase are a tower and columns. The tower at the entrance is connected to the central structure by corridors supported on both sides by double rows of columns. There are four towers in the corners of the upper level. Steps simultaneously connect and separate different parts of the structure. The upper level is surrounded by a narrow covered gallery with a double row of columns, and on the outside there are windows and balustrades. The central sanctuary rises 42 m above the upper level. The height of the largest of the five towers is equal to the height of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris. The central sanctuary houses the sacred image of the temple. Initially, there were four passages facing the four cardinal directions, however, they were closed some time after the sacking of Ankhgor Wat in the middle of the 15th century. Almost 500 years later, French archaeologists discovered a vertical depression in the center of the upper level at a depth of 27 m, which contained many gold items. From the top of the temple you can finally see the entire architectural plan of Angkor Wat. A view of stunning beauty opens up, confirming the ingenious ability of Khmer architecture to create harmonious proportions.

"Walk around the perimeter of the upper level outer gallery to enjoy the view of the surrounding countryside, the paved road to the west and the central group of towers. The gallery is not high enough to provide a full view of the surrounding area. But you can still see enough to realize what It took courage for the architects to erect this temple complex.You will be able to see the northwestern part of the moat up to the towering lotus-shaped peak that belongs to the central shrine.From this point, Angkor Wat seems so vast that it is difficult to realize that such a grandiose structure was erected by people ."

Gallery of bas-reliefs

"They attract attention with their beauty and keep it with their unusualness.", Helen Churchill wrote Kandy in bas-reliefs in 1920. The gallery of bas-reliefs encircling the first level of Angkor Wat is 1200 m 2 of images carved from sandstone. The bas-reliefs cover most of the inner wall from all four sides of the galleries. Their height is 2 m.

The details, the quality of composition and execution give them the right to be among the greatest examples of world art. The columns located along the outer wall of the gallery create an interesting play of light and shadow on the relief. The result is a textured wallpaper effect that looks more like the work of painters than sculptors. The bas-reliefs are incredibly richly decorated - a creation of power, calmness, imagination and fantasy, and giving the impression of "the highest dignity", as one visitor wrote 50 years ago.

The bas-reliefs are divided into 8 parts - two on each wall of the square gallery. Each part reflects a specific theme. Moreover, in the corners of the Eastern Gallery there are two pavilions, which also depict various themes.

Panels with bas-reliefs are arranged horizontally and usually consist of two or three parts. In some places, the edges of the panels are also decorated. The themes for the bas-reliefs were taken from two main sources - the Indian epic and sacred books and military items of the Angkor period. Some scholars suggest that the location of the bas-relief depended on the theme reflected in it. For example, the bas-reliefs on the east and west walls depict themes associated with sunrise and sunset. The word "ba" means "low" or "shallow" and means the degree of relief projection. The method of creating reliefs at Angkor Wat was that the craftsmen cut out the background, thus leaving the image itself in the relief. The surface of some reliefs seems to be polished.

This can be explained by two theories. The presence and location of polished areas in important parts of the relief suggests that this was the work of visitors who constantly touched the surface. Traces of gilding and paint, in particular black and red, are also visible on some reliefs. This may be the remains of a primer or a fixing agent. Some of the bas-reliefs depict the most common objects and phenomena. The river is depicted as two parallel vertical lines, between which a fish swims. As in Egyptian art, the rank of a person is determined by the size of his image: the higher the rank, the larger size. In the battle scenes, a broken handle on the leader's umbrella signifies defeat. The temporal remoteness of the scene is determined by the number of planks placed one above the other: the higher such a "wall", the more ancient the depicted event. Figures with legs apart and bent knees means being in flight.

Visit to the Bas-relief Gallery

Those who want to stay longer in this wonderful Bas-Relief Gallery are sure to discover something new, because Angkor Wat offers visitors many pleasant surprises.

"Remember that the Angkor Wat bas-reliefs should be viewed from left to right. Enter with western entrance, turn right and enter the gallery, and then continue counterclockwise. If you start your tour from another point in the gallery, then make sure that the temple remains on your left side. If your time in Angkor Wat is limited, we advise you to see the following bas-reliefs."

This scene is the main theme described in the ancient Indian epic Mahabharata. The scene depicts the last battle in Kurukshetra - one of the Indian provinces - between cousins ​​​​who were at enmity with each other. The Kaurava and Pandava armies approach each other, heading towards the center of the panel. The belonging of warriors to a particular clan can be determined by their headdresses. The scene begins with the infantry entering the battle, while the musicians play a rhythmic melody. This bas-relief depicts hand-to-hand combat where many soldiers died.

Senior officers and generals, depicted on a large scale, watch the battle from chariots or mounted on elephants and horses. The tension of the scene gradually increases and culminates in hand-to-hand combat. Bisma (pictured at the beginning of the panel), one of the heroes of the Mahabharata and the leader of the Kauravas, was hit by an arrow and is now dying, surrounded by his loyal warriors. Arjuna (a man with a shield depicting the face of the demon Rahu) shoots an arrow at his half-brother Karna and kills him. After death, Krishna (with four arms) becomes the driver on Arjuna's chariot.

"Currently preparing to publish photos of the galleries."

Corner Pavilion (Southwest)

East

South

North

South (historical) gallery - King Suryavarman II's army

This gallery depicts a magnificent triumphal procession of warriors returning from a battle between the Khmer and their enemies. The relief depicts the combat methods used, mostly hand-to-hand combat, since in those days people still knew nothing about technology and firearms.

In the background, trees and animals are incredibly believable and naturalistic. The central figure of this gallery is Emperor Suryavarman II, on whose orders the temple complex of Angkor Wat was built. Suryavarman II is depicted twice in the gallery. He is signed with his posthumous name, which suggests that the inscription was made after his death. The triangular holes randomly carved into the gallery may have contained valuable items stored at Angkor Wat. On the upper tier, the emperor, on whose body gilding is visible, holds a meeting on the top of a mountain surrounded by forest.

The whole army comes together for inspection, and the commanders, mounted on elephants, unite their troops, who begin to march towards the enemy. The rank of the commander can be determined by the inscription next to his image. Emperor Suryavarman II sits astride an elephant (a conical headdress, a sword over his shoulder). He is surrounded by servants holding 15 umbrellas. Vishnu is seated on Garuda, who sits on a flagpole near the king's elephant. Standard-bearers, musicians and jesters take part in the lively and noisy procession of the Sacred Fire. Brahmins sing to the accompaniment of cymbals. Royal offerings are carried in palanquins.

Toward the end of the panel: Troops of Thai warriors (in frilled floral skirts, braided hair, feathered headdresses, short mustaches) join the procession, led by an elephant-mounted commander. It is likely that the Thai troops were mercenaries from Louwo Province (now Lopburi Province) who bolstered the Khmer army. Khmer warriors wear helmets decorated with horns of various animals (deer, horses). Some of the shields depict monsters.

Pit court. Heaven and hell.

On three tiers, the judgment of humanity carried out by Yama is depicted, and on the other two tiers, heaven and hell. Judging by the inscriptions, 37 heavens are depicted here, where you can wander through beautiful palaces, and 32 hells with scenes of punishment and suffering. Heaven and hell are separated from each other by curtains and apsaras. At the bottom of the lower tier, a row of Garudas is depicted. The roof of the gallery was destroyed by lightning in 1947, but then the ceiling was restored by the efforts of the French. The riders depicted at the beginning of the panel show traces of gilding. The bottom of the panel was severely damaged and the cracks were sealed with cement.

Lower tier: Chief Judge Yama (many-armed, wields a staff, and rides a buffalo) points out to his assistants the upper road representing Heaven, and lower road representing Hell. The spirits of dead people await his verdict. Yama's assistants push the villains into the door leading to Hell, where they bear various punishments. For example, those people who were constantly handed over during their lifetime are sawn in half, and the bones of criminals are broken. Some of the punished are wearing iron shackles, while others have nails stuck in their heads. Upper tier: Garudas and apsaras support the heavenly palace floating in the air.

Eastern Gallery - Whipping the Milky Sea

This is the most famous bas-relief of Angkor Wat, based on the ancient Indian epic "Bhagavata Purana". In this scene, angels and demons are churning the Sea of ​​Milk to obtain amrita, the elixir of life. They want to return the lost treasures - the source of immortality, the goddess of wealth Lakshmi, milk white elephant Indra and the beauty nymph. These objects symbolize well-being and prosperity. This event takes place during the second advent of Vishnu, when he returned in the form of a turtle.

The stage occupies three tiers. In the lower tier, various sea animals are presented - both real and mythical. The lower tier is bordered by a snake. On one side of the middle tier there is a row of 92 demons (round bulging eyes, helmets with crests), and on the other side a row of 88 gods (almond-shaped eyes, conical headdresses). Demons and gods churn the sea with the body of the serpent Vasuki. They are assisted by Hanuman, the monkey god. Vishnu in the guise of a tortoise holds the Mandara mountain on his shell, around which the whipping takes place. Vishnu is at the bottom of the Sea. The demons hold the snake by the head, and the gods by the tail. Rhythmically rotating the long body of the serpent, they churn the sea with it.

Gods and demons obey the three gods (their images are larger). Indra stands over Vishnu, and on the right, the ally of the gods Hanuman tickles the snake Vasuki. Upper tier: Various female spirits appear during the churning of the sea. In this scene, Vishnu is again depicted, but already in the form of a man. He controls the churning of the sea, which, according to legend, lasted over a thousand years.

Other creatures are also depicted here - for example, the three-headed elephant of Indra, apsaras and the goddess of beauty Lakshmi. On sea ​​waves a deadly poison is seen, which was vomited by the Vasuki snakes. Fearing that the poison could destroy the gods and demons, Brahma asks Shiva to drink the poison, which will leave an unhealed mark in his throat. Shiva obeys and as a result produces amrita. The demons rush in to intercept the elixir. Vishnu rushes to the rescue, taking the form of the charming beauty Maya. Vishnu manages to save the precious liquid.

Inscription

In the middle of the East Gallery there is an interesting inscription dating back to the beginning of the 18th century - the time when Angkor Wat was a Buddhist monastery. The inscription tells of a governor of one of the provinces who built a small tomb to store the bones of his wife and children. The tomb is in poor condition, but it is clearly visible. It is located right in front of the inscription in the gallery.

Victory of Vishnu over Demons.

The bas-reliefs in the East Gallery and in the southern part of the North Gallery must have been completed later, in the 15th or 16th century. This is evidenced by a certain stiffness, ceremony in the depiction of figures and a low level of skill. The demon army is heading towards the center of the panel. In the center is a four-armed Vishnu seated on Garuda.

Then comes the battle scene. Vishnu strikes his enemies advancing from all sides, throwing their bodies away from him. Demon leaders (mounted on animals or riding in chariots pulled by monsters) are surrounded by warriors. They are joined by another group of warriors (with bows and arrows) led by their leaders, who ride chariots or sit astride huge peacocks.

Krishna's victory over the demon king Bana

At the beginning of the panel, Vishnu, in the form of Krishna, is seated on Garuda. Agni, the many-armed god of fire, sits astride a rhinoceros behind Vishnu. This scene has been depicted several times. Surrounding the city the wall is on fire, preventing Krishna and his army of gods from entering the city. This scene with Krishnu is also repeated several times on the panel. Garuda extinguishes the fire with water from the sacred river Ganges. The many-armed demon Bana (riding a rhinoceros) is approaching the army of the gods from the other side. Right panel area: Krishna (1000 heads, arms crossed over chest) kneels before Shiva, who is seated on a throne on Mount Kailash with his wife Parvati and son Ganesa (with the head of an elephant). They ask Shiva to have mercy on Banu.

Battle between gods and demons

The 21 gods of the Brahman pantheon walk in procession, carrying their classical attributes and sitting on their traditional animals. Scenes of opposition of one god to one demon are depicted. In the background is a battle between the armies on the side of the gods and on the side of the demons. The god of wealth Kubera (with a bow and arrows) appears astride a yak, the god of war Skanda (many-headed and many-armed) - on a peacock, Indra? on an elephant, four-armed Vishnu on Garuda. The god of death and justice (with a sword and shield) Yama stands in a chariot drawn by horses. Varian, the water god, harnessed and saddled a five-headed serpent.

Corner Pavilion (Northwest)

North

West

South

East

Western Gallery - Lanka Battle

This scene from the Ramayana is a long and fierce battle between Rama and the demon king Ravana (10 heads and 20 arms) depicted in the center of the gallery. This is one of the most impressive bas-reliefs of Angkor Wat. The battle taking place in Lanka (the island of Sri Lanka) ends with the defeat of Ravana, who kidnapped the beautiful wife of Rama Sita. The central figures are warrior monkeys fighting on the side of Rama.

The cruelty of war is compared with the grace and agility of monkeys. Near center: Rama stands on Sugriva's shoulders under a hail of arrows; near Rama are his brother Lakshmana and an old demon. Nearby, the demon king Ravana (10 heads and 20 arms) rides in a chariot drawn by mythical lions.

Between them is depicted Nala leaning on the heads of two lions. Nala is the monkey who built the Rama bridge to Lanka. Nala tosses the body of the warrior he has defeated over her shoulder. The Monkey Prince pulls an elephant tusk from his three-pronged headdress and hurls the tusk and the demon to the ground.

Angkor Wat is a giant temple complex dedicated to the god Vishnu in Cambodia. Is the largest ever created places of worship and one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. Built during the reign of King Suryavarman II (1113-1150).

Angkor Wat is located 5.5 km north of the modern Siem reap city, the capital of the eponymous province of Cambodia, and is part of a temple complex built in the area of ​​​​the ancient capital of the Khmer state, the city of Angkor. Angkor covers an area of ​​200 km²; recent research suggests that it may have covered an area of ​​about 3,000 km² and a population of up to half a million inhabitants, making it one of the largest human settlements of the pre-industrial era.

It was discovered only in the 19th century by the French traveler Henri Muo. Many bizarre buildings with sprouted trees and shrubs appeared to his astonished gaze. Currently, this complex attracts many tourists from all over the world.

13th century Khmer Buddhist temple at Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Trees sprouted through the buildings.

Angkor Wat from a bird's eye view. The surrounding moat is clearly visible.

Pre Rup, one of the many ruined temples of Angkor Wat. It was built in 961 by order of the Khmer king Rajendravarman, who was also buried here.

Statue in Bayon temple.

The terrace of Angkor Thom is made up of elephant statues.

Bizarre combinations of trees and buildings, corridors and labyrinths of Bayon.

Apsaras, detail of the lower pediment. Bayon style, end 12 - early. 13th century, sandstone.

Terrace of the Leper King at Angkor Thom.

Banteay Srei (left): This is a 10th century Khmer architecture temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. Banteay Samre (Right): Located about 500m east of East Baray, is one of the temples of Angkor.

Banteay Srey Temple is a 10th century Cambodian temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva.

Built in the late 12th century or early 13th century: Bayon Temple, Angkor Thom.

Through the roots and trunks of trees, the image of the Buddha appears.

Buddhist monks in front of the pool, which is located in front of the central temple of Angkor Wat.

Two small temples, Thommanon and Chao, are located to the east of Angkor Thom.

Bas-relief on the wall in the Terrace of the Leper King, part of the Royal Square of Angkor Thom - Angkor Wat.

Ta Prohm Temple, Angkor, Cambodia.

Bas-reliefs and corridors of the Buddhist temple of Angkor Ta Prohm. It dates back to the 12th century and was built by King Jayavarman VII, who is considered one of the greatest rulers of the ancient Khmer empire.

Tight interlacing of tree roots and stones of Ta Prohm temple.

The heads of mythical characters are located above the moat leading to south gate Angkor Thom.

This is an artificial island Buddhist temple Preah Khan Baray.

Phimeanakas was "built in the late 10th century, during the reign of Rajendravarman (941-968), and then rebuilt by Suryavarman II as a three-tiered pyramid, like a Hindu temple.

Phnom Bakheng is located between Angkor Wat and Bayon.

Prasat Preah Palilay.

Prasat Sister Prat is a series of 12 towers in Angkor Thom.

View of the ruins of the Temple of Preah Khan at Angkor in Cambodia. Preah Khan was built by the Khmer king Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century, dedicated to his father, Dharanindravarman II.

Tree roots and Ta Prohm temple.

A boy plays in the pool in front of the central temple of Angkor Wat.

Sunset over Angkor Wat.

On the left is Ta Prohm, on the right is Angkor Wat.

One of the most famous places in the complex is the empty doorway to Ta Prohm.

Dressed up statue in the Bayon temple. Here the monks talk to the spirits.

Looking through the many doors of the Angkor Wat temple complex.

The pond Srah Srang was dug in the middle of the 10th century and the staircase is flanked by statues of lions.

The 12th century temple is dedicated to the Buddha.

Temple of Ta Prohm.