Venice on your own: tips and secrets. Choose the right time to visit tourist places. Venice: how to navigate the city

Venice - unique city, located on 118 islands and the mainland of the lagoon, is divided by 150 channels, through which 422 bridges were built.

The palaces of the XV-XVIII centuries were built in a peculiar Venetian style, in which the influence of the East is felt (Venetian Gothic is formed from elements of Gothic and Moorish style). This is a world-famous museum city, mysterious and unforgettable, with flowing canal streets, the main of which is the Grand Canal. about 4 km long and up to 70 m wide. To visit Venice and not sail in a gondola along this canal of the "Bridge of Sighs", not to listen to the barcarolle is nonsense. Patrician palaces are concentrated along the canal - architectural masterpieces different eras: Renaissance, Renaissance, you can see arches in Moorish or gothic style. According to legend, Desdemona lived in the Cantarini-Fasan Palace, and Richard Wagner died in the Palazzo Vendramin Calergi.

Grand Canal

A first-time visitor to Venice arrives with expectations, most of which, as it turns out, are justified. It's extremely beautiful city, its streets are so interesting that one cannot go even a minute without stopping in front of something curious; lesser-known sights will shock you no less than the main ones - the Basilica and Piazza San Marco. The only annoying thing is that Venice is flooded with tourists, their annual influx exceeds the city's population by 200 times; and also that it is expensive - in any other Italian city you can dine well, and for the same price in Venice they will bring you the most delicious food, and sellers always try to cash in where demand exceeds supply.

However, tourists are less and less common the farther from the field of San Marco, which attracts like a magnet, and in winter it is possible that you will find some quarters completely empty. As far as how to keep your costs down, there are still a few inexpensive restaurants in the city and, if you try, you can find a room for a night that does not cost a fortune.

Visiting card of Venice - St. Mark's Square, the largest in the city - 175 meters long and 82 wide. Here it is famous cathedral erected in the 11th century. in honor of St. Mark - the patron saint of the city.
Almost all tourists begin their inspection of Venice from this cathedral, so you need to come here early, at seven in the morning, when there are not many visitors yet.

Inner courtyard of the Doge's Palace

Pride of the Venetians - Doge's Palace (XIV century). This is the best place to go on excursions. Italian and inspect the torture chambers, as well as the basement where Casanova was imprisoned. On the ceiling of one of the rooms are paintings by Hieronymus Bosch.

There are no buses in Venice. Main transport in Venice - River tram, there is and river taxi , which will cost those who wish to ride much more expensive. The historical mode of transport is an 11-meter, crescent-shaped gondola. It has retained its exquisite shape and strict black color unchanged and is intended mainly for tourists. The system of islands is fenced off from the Venetian Gulf of the Adriatic Sea by narrow and long islands-spits (Lido and others) and is connected to the mainland by two parallel four-kilometer bridges, one of which is railway. Motorists arriving in Venice leave their cars in a huge garage in Piazzale Roma.

World famous Venetian Carnival calculates its history from 1094. Since then, it has invariably lasted 10 days (from 6 to 16 February) from the feast of St. Stefano. Thanks to Giacomo Casanova, since the 18th century, the range of costumes has expanded, complementing modest black capes and long-nosed masks.

At beautiful Venice many everyday problems: the onset of the sea and the threat of floods, the high cost, the departure of residents. Over the past 100 years, the sea level has risen by 33 cm, and the city is sinking by 5 mm per year. In this century, floods (caused by the combination of celestial tides with southerly wind surges) have been more frequent and severe than in the entire centuries of history Venice. The highest known water level (166 cm) was recorded in 1979. Venice is the oldest city in Italy, and the world already calls it "a city of tourists only".

Where to live?

Everyone knows that hotels in Venice are extremely expensive, but you can still save money. The search algorithm for relatively inexpensive housing is as follows:

First we are looking for hotels near Santa Lucia train station or bus station at piazzale Roma(the cheapest way to get there is from both Venice airports), so as not to go with a heavy suitcase through the whole city (read "through numerous bridges with stairs").
My Experience: Hotel Ca’ Lucrezia and Guerrini

Then we look more remote hotels (still in the city center) located close to water transport stops (vaporetto), and add to the cost of living 10-13 euros (per person), that is, the difference in price between the bus and the bus + vaporetto ticket or direct transport from the airport (Alilaguna, tickets are cheaper to buy online) .
My Experience: HotelNuovo Teson

If it turned out to be too expensive on the islands, moving to the mainland Mestre/Marghera, where prices are much lower, but you will have to spend a total of about 3 euros and 40 minutes daily on a trip to Venice and back. It is believed that Marghera is less safe than Mestre, however, having lived in both areas, I can say that there are more migrants in the latter. So do not get hung up on the location and just choose a better hotel, the main thing is that there is a bus stop to Venice nearby and a supermarket if breakfast is not included in the price.
My experience: hotelsVilla Adele(Margera) andAdria(Mestre)

Well the most extreme case- to settle in more remote areas, for example, in the Fusina campsite, where I also had the honor of living. It's not the best convenient option, but for 1-2 nights (no more!) It can be a real salvation for a thin wallet and a tourist who dreams of Venice.
My Experience: Campingfusina

The coast of the Venetian lagoon, camping "Fusina"

Where to go?

Venice is a museum city open sky so spend a lot of time there "closed" attractions- unforgivable luxury. The only exceptions are the magnificent Doge's Palace and the Ca' Rezzonico mansion, as well as the highest observation platforms on the bell towers of the cathedrals of San Marco and San Giorgio Maggiore. Only bad luck - the last two are not included in any museum map of the city, so its acquisition for a not very museum tourist loses all meaning.

note that Doge's Palace ticket(as much as 19 euros for adults!) also allows you to visit the Correr Museum-Gallery, the Archaeological Museum and the most beautiful rooms of the National Library for free for 3 months, so if you have time, stop by to inquire!

Separately, I will say about the sensational palaces of Ca' d'Oro and Contarini del Bovolo- many people write about the first one that it is more beautiful from the outside than from the inside, and in the second I was personally disappointed because of the inability to get inside and was content only with a walk along the outer staircase (by the way, it also looks more interesting from the outside) and not the most impressive views from the observation deck .

Most tourists crave climb the bell tower San Marco, so there are always queues, and the ticket costs 8 euros. However, it is worth crossing the San Marco channel and on the island of San Giorgio you will find exactly the same bell tower, only without tourists and for only 6 euros. I confess I can't say which one has the best view: I liked both! From San Marco you can see the domes of the cathedral of the same name and the endless tiled mosaic of Venetian houses, and from San Giorgio Maggiore one of the most famous panoramas of Venice opens up and the main water area of ​​​​the city is visible at a glance.

View of Venice from the bell tower of the Cathedral of San Giorgio Maggiore

What to move?

About the main types of tickets for public transport I already wrote about Venice (buses and vaporetto), so I’ll add just a couple of tips ...

For budget exploration of the Venetian islands remote from the center take a ticket for 24 hours (valid from the moment of the first validation, so you need to “propell” it right before boarding). During this time, you can have time to go to the farthest and most beautiful island of Burano (on the direct vaporetto number 12 from the Fondamente Nove embankment). On the way back, stop for a short while at the famous, but not too picturesque glass Murano (at the same No. 12) and at the unusual island-cemetery of San Michele (on the way from Murano on vaporetto No. 4.1 or 4.2). Then, from Fondamente Nove, run to the nearest stop on the Grand Canale (for example, at the Rialto Bridge) and in daylight ride along the main "avenue" of the city on any vaporetto to Piazza San Marco. There, change to line number 2 to the island of Giudecca (stops Palanca, Redentore or Zitelle), where it is so nice to watch the sunset on the waterfront! And then, returning to San Marco, sail along the Grand Canale at night towards the stations on vaporetto number 1 or 2. If there is time, in the morning of the next day before the ticket expires, take a ride to the island of San Giorgio Maggiore to climb observation deck(open from 9:00), and here historic island Torcello, as it turned out, can be completely bypassed.

Please note that any the vaporetto ticket must be valid not at the time of the trip, but at the time of validation at the pier, which extends the validity of the travel card for some more time!

However vaporetto is not always the best way to get around around Venice; sometimes it will be faster to walk on foot than to go by transport, for example, on the route from piazzale Roma to Fondamente Nove and from the railway station to the Tronchetto cruise terminal.

Gondolas - the oldest transport in Venice

Where to walk, eat, buy souvenirs and ... go to the toilets?

In Venice, tourists with a map in their hands make me smile, because learn to navigate this city from the first time it is almost unrealistic - you will get lost anyway. Although in fact this is the best thing that can happen to you here! Having examined the main beauties, put down the map and go for a walk on the principle of "where your eyes look." Do not be afraid to turn off the main tourist routes and climb deep into the intricate web of streets and canals. Believe me, it is no less beautiful there than in St. Mark's Square, and there are practically no tourists, because all this splendor will belong only to you!

If you still want use the card, then the only chance to get it for free is to ask at the reception of your hotel. In the tourist information points of the city, this service is paid, but it’s even scary to remember about the price tag for the plan of the area in newspaper and ticket kiosks!

Paradoxically, but true - restaurants and shops in the most tourist spots Oh Venice often turns out to be quite inexpensive compared to their "colleagues" on the outskirts of the island part of the city. According to my observations, it is best to eat and buy souvenirs in the Cannaregio Canal area, including on the tourist street itself, which leads from the railway station to the Rialto bridge. By the way, there is also a shop where chic Venetian masks can be bought for only 2-5 euros, well, magnets are everywhere from 0.75 to 1 euro!

If instead of dinner, you prefer a romantic aperitif(I talked about this phenomenon in detail) on the bank of the canal in the company of young Venetian students, then after 7 pm go to the bars on the embankment of the Rio della Misericordia canal (which is behind the ghetto quarter) or in the area of ​​​​the church and the San Trovaso canal of the same name. I am not aware of the prices for Venetian aperitifs, but I am sure that such a meal format will be much more budgetary than dinner at a restaurant!

And here For traditional lunch or dinner from a recent trip, I can recommend Al Faro, a pizzeria restaurant located in a pretty corner of the ghetto, with a very hospitable owner (sorry, not Italian) and La Perla pizzeria, where local gondoliers dine, and pizza can be taken away (without paying a mandatory tip) and eat it literally around the corner, sitting on the bank of a picturesque canal. Both establishments are very tasty and relatively budget-friendly by Venetian standards.

When choosing a restaurant, be sure to pay attention to what is written at the bottom / at the end of the menu in small print. In Venice, as in all of Italy, mandatory tips are included in the bill, calling it the word “coperto” (in adequate establishments 1-2 euros per person), “servizio” is less common (10% of the check amount). However, especially greedy institutions do not hesitate to combine both options of these fees in one account, so be careful! And I strongly advise against seating at restaurant tables romantically set along the canals: if you ever see Venice at night, you will find out what animals walk along it at night.

In Venice everything is well organized, except for the toilets! Moreover, it is often impossible to get this “service” even for money: the number of public WCs per thousand tourists tends to zero, and this despite the fact that a “ticket for one visit” costs as much as 1.5 euros! Most bars and restaurants will also not let you in just like that, saying that their toilet is for visitors only. But there is a way out! For the same 1.5 euros (well, or even 2) in these greedy establishments, you can drink a cup of espresso and at the same time look into the restroom (already as a visitor!), And if you are with friends, then the whole company will “rejoice” for the price of one coffee)))

› Tourist information offices in Venice

In Venice, there are quite a few tourist information offices that tourists can contact and find out basic information about the city and the rules. If you have any questions regarding orientation, addresses of major attractions, transportation, famous events (such as various festivals and concerts, exhibitions and shows) and the like, you can always contact one of these reliable bureaus.

The seven offices are managed by the Department of Tourism of the Venetian province (namely APT Venezia / APT Venice) and they are located both in Venice (lagoon) and in its surroundings such as San Marco Airport or Piazzale Roma. In addition to useful information, the bureau also offers tourists free cards, in order for them to better orient themselves in the city, and they also sell tickets to museums here (mainly museums and galleries located along Grand Canal and San Marco).

Tourist Information Office Castello

Located near the Doge's Palace in the Castello district, the office named after the district is open less than the rest of the offices, which does not prevent it from being a source of reliable information provided by the Venice Tourism Department.

Name: Castello Tourist Information Office (Azienda di Promozione Turistica) Address: 5050 Castello 30122 Venice, Italy Phone: 0039 041 5298711 Fax: 0039 041 5230399 E-mail: Website: www.turismovenezia.it Opening hours: daytime (except Saturday ): From 8:30 to 2:30 pm

Tourist Information Office of Santa Lucia Railway Station

Santa Lucia railway station is one of the main gates of Venice. It houses the information office APT Venezia, which proves its focus on tourism. The bureau is very useful for tourists, so it works full time.

Name: Santa Lucia Train Station Tourist Information Office (Ufficio Informazioni e Accoglienza Turistica) Address: Saint Lucia Station, 30121 Venice, Italy Phone: 0039 041 5298711 Fax: 0039 041 5230399 Email: website: www.turismovenezia. it's opening hours: daily: 8 am to 6:30 pm

Tourist Information Office of Piazzale Roma

squares of rome- the final stop of all land transport in Venice, including buses and trains, as well as private cars of tourists. There is also an information desk, especially useful for those who are looking for a place to park and want to park their car during their stay in Venice.

Name: Tourist Information Office of Piazzale Roma (Azienda di Promozione Turistica) Address: Piazzale Roma Garage ASM, 30135 Venice, Italy Phone: 0039 041 5298711 Fax: 0039 041 5230399 E-mail: Website: www.turismovenezia.it opening hours: daily: 9:30 am to 3:30 pm

Tourist Information Office of San Marco

San Marco is one of the most crowded hotspots in Venice. Crowded with prestigious museums and famous landmarks, the city is also home to the APT Venezia information office, a boon for anyone who wants to get to know Venice in the most effective way.

Name: San Marco Tourist Information Office (Azienda di Promozione Turistica) Address: 71/f, San Marco, 30124 Venice, Italy Phone: 0039 041 5298711 Fax: 0039 041 5230399 E-mail: Website: www.turismovenezia. it's opening hours: daily: 9:00 am to 3:30 pm

Tourist Information Office Venice Pavilion Office

The Venice Pavilion Tourist Information Office is also located in San Marco, complementing the services of a more centrally located counterpart. This office is located near the bus stop water bus so it's easy to spot.

Name: Venice Pavilion Tourist Information Office (Azienda di Promozione Turistica) Address: Ex Giardini realii, San Marco, 30124 Venice, Italy Phone: 0039 041 5298711 Fax: 0039 041 5230399 E-mail: Website: www.turismovenezia. it's opening hours: daily: 12:00 am to 6:00 pm

Tourist Information Office Marco Polo Office

Since Marco Polo Airport is Venice's largest and most popular airport, it's no surprise that APT Venezia has offices here to help tourists get their bearings in the city from the moment they arrive.

Name: Marco Polo Tourist Information Office (Azienda di Promozione Turistica) Address: Marco Polo Airport, 30030, Tessera, Italy Phone: 0039 041 5298711 Fax: 0039 041 5230399 E-mail: Website: www.turismovenezia.it opening hours : Daily: 9:00 AM to 8:00 PM

Tourist Information Bureau Port Mira

The Port of Peace is located 15 kilometers from the Venetian Lagoon. There are APT Venezia offices here that help tourists explore Venice and its surroundings.

is a city made up of many small islands , which are located between Adriatic Sea And peninsula. The total number of islands is more than 100; there are about 160 channels and channels throughout the city. The whole of Venice is literally “strewn” with bridges, of which there are about 400. This amazing city it looks like an underwater settlement that has risen to the surface and may soon go under water again. Unfortunately, the last statement has a grain of truth. The fact is that Venice is gradually sinking into the water. This is influenced by many factors, including industrial water withdrawals, and increased pressure on the islands due to the construction of new buildings. According to the most pessimistic forecasts, by 2028 it will be impossible to live on the islands. Of course, the Italian government is looking for solutions to this problem. Let's hope that Venice will delight tourists for many centuries with its unusual "water" streets, ancient architecture and Italian flair. But it is precisely this fragility that gives this city a special charm.

The climate in Venice is quite mild and humid. In summer it can be quite hot, the temperature varies from + 16°C to + 27°C. The warmest month is July, at this time average temperature air keeps about + 23 ° С. There are frosts in winter, but snow falls extremely rarely. During this period, the humidity of the island rises, fogs and short rains become habitual. The air temperature varies from -1°С to +7°С.

Sights and tourism in Venice

The first attraction, which, as a rule, start excursions in Venice is St. Mark's Cathedrallocated on the square of the same name. This ancient building was built in the 11th century, its walls are lined with golden mosaics, and the floor is finished with marble. Here you can see a golden altarpiece inlaid with precious stones. This is a real work of art, the author of which is Giampaolo Boniseña. Not far from the square are galleries with a variety of cafes. The most famous of them is Florian. This cafe is considered the oldest representative of such establishments in Europe. During winter and autumn floods, the area can be partially flooded, at which time wooden flooring is laid here.

Here you can also see the Doge's Palace, where in the old days the rulers of Venice made official receptions.. Of particular interest is the Sala del Major Consiglio, which is considered the largest building in the world without ceiling supports. Nearby is the building of the former prison, between it and the palace lies the Bridge of Sighs. It received this sad name due to the fact that in the old days prisoners were led along it to prison.

The Rialto area is a wonderful place, which is the commercial center of Venice. Here is the bridge of the same name, which is striking in its scale. It is the oldest bridge in Venice. It was destroyed several times and until the 16th century it was rebuilt again and again from wood. Now it's huge stone structure, which is mounted on 12 thousand piles. On the bridge there are shops with a variety of goods. Here is the most ancient church Venice - Chiesa di San Giacomo di Rialto. It was built in 421.

Many palaces in Venice now serve as museums. Of particular interest are the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, the Naval Museum, the Venice Museum, the Correr City Museum and the Accademia Gallery.

Craft lovers should visit the island of Murano, the birthplace of the world-famous Murano glass. It is located just 1.5 km from the city. Here you can get acquainted with the history of the development of glassmaking in the museum, look at the work of masters and visit an exhibition of glass works. Venetian glass has long been considered the most beautiful and high quality in the world.

An attraction of Venice along with magnificent architectural structures is an annual Carnival. It has an ancient history, once the inhabitants of Venice honored the god Saturn in this way and celebrated the harvest. Then the holiday was called Saturnalia. During these celebrations, it was customary to blur the boundaries between classes. Slaves could sit at the same table with their masters, and the masks hid their origin. People who lived within the framework of religious prohibitions were allowed to do everything these days. Now this holiday has turned into a stormy Venice Carnival with magnificent celebrations, spectacles and the most extravagant costumes. The outfits are usually based on the images of the Italian comedies del Arte - Alekino, Pantalone, Piero and Colombina.

Holidays in Venice

Venice is rich not only in sights, but also in entertainment. Here you can arrange a dizzying shopping, taste the most delicious dishes Italian cuisine visit night clubs and bars.

in the evenings to relaxing holiday have walks on the water on gondolas. The view of the sleeping city, the silence and reflections of the water awaken the imagination and give impressions that are hard to forget. You can book a walk along the Grand Canal and see all the palaces of Venice.

In late August or early September, moviegoers from all over the world flock here. It is in Venice that the Lido International Film Festival takes place. It is held simultaneously at Lungomare Marconi, Palazzo del Cinema and at open area at San Polo. IN winter period cinema Giorgione once a week provides a screening of films that are also dubbed in English.

The best place to try the local cuisine is Harry`s Bar known all over the world. Hemingway and other creative personalities of the past often spent time here. And now sometimes you can see movie stars, music stars and others here. famous people. It is located in the city center, the atmosphere is conducive to comfort thanks to small halls and low tables. And the dishes of Venetian cuisine do not leave anyone indifferent.

Another good restaurant Da Fiore offers its visitors a large fish menu and an extensive wine list. The elegant atmosphere allows you to hold here both business meetings and romantic dinners.

Fans of establishments with history should visit Caffe Quadri cafe-restaurant which was built in 1775. The regulars of this institution were Byron, Dumas, Stendhal, Wagner and Proust. Diverse cuisine, delicious wines and a view of St. Mark's Square give this place a special sophistication.

For shopping in Venice, you should go to Mercerie and Calle Larga XXII Marzo. It is here that almost all the fashion boutiques of the most famous designers are located. Here you can buy branded clothes, accessories and jewelry. Another shopping place that cannot be ignored is Cà del Sol. It sells chic Venetian masks and carnival costumes, the richness of the decor of which takes your breath away. In the shop-workshop you can see how real Venetian masks are made.

Lovers will not get bored in Venice nightlife. Young people tend to gather in Piccolo Mondo. This night club with democratic prices and different styles of music. One of the most popular places is the Round Midnight bar. Here you can have a good time with live music, they play both dance hits and jazz. You can go dancing at Vittoria Nike, where they play various dance styles of music, including house.

Is it possible to travel to Venice on a budget? Let's calculate how much a trip to Venice can cost and how you can minimize costs. Let's go through all the items of expenditure.

Let's start with transportation costs.

We took tickets from Moscow with a change in Rome airline Alitalia. Booked about a month and a half on Aviasales. A round-trip ticket cost 13,500 rubles per person (slightly less than 200 euros). Slightly cheaper were tickets with transfers in Amsterdam airline KLM.

A direct ticket Moscow-Venice cost 24,000.

There are two airports in Venice: the nearest one is Marco Polo, and the far one is Treviso (20 km from Venice), where such low-cost airlines as WizzAir, Ryanair arrive. We flew in the Marco Polo. You may find a budget option to fly through Treviso.

Travel insurance

Travel insurance was issued through, which is the official representative of the largest insurance companies. When registering, you must enter the dates of the planned trip, the country, the number of people and their age. You will be offered options from various insurance companies.

We chose the company Alfastrakhovanie. Insurance for two for 12 days cost us 1400 rubles.

Transfer. How to get to Venice from the airport

The first necessary expenses for transport upon arrival in Venice is a transfer to the city center.

The most budget option is the buses of ATVO and ACTV transport companies. There are express trains (shuttles) and regular buses number 5, which make stops along the way. We thought that they had different prices, but in both cases we paid 8 euros for a ticket (we went there by ATVO express, back - by number 5 ACTV).

How to find the bus upon arrival? Almost at the very exit from the airport building, almost reaching the doors, “Public transport” will be written on the left. There are ticket offices where you can buy tickets for the bus that goes to Piazzale Roma (Piazzale Roma is the final station for vehicles, then moving around Venice is only on foot or by water transport). You can also buy a ticket from the machine.

From Venice to the airport, the first shuttle leaves at 4-20, the last - at 23-10.

Shuttles from Marco Polo Airport run every 20 minutes, the first at 5-20, the last at 00-20 (we went at 23-20).

The bus stop is located right outside the airport. A little further, on the right, there is a stop for express trains that go only to Mestre. Between these two stops, an uncle-controller walks around, who makes sure that you get on the right bus, and checks tickets when boarding.

The bus ride to Venice takes about 20 minutes.

From Treviso Airport there are buses of the same company ATVO. Shuttles are on the way for 40 minutes, regular ones - about an hour.

However, you can pre-order a taxi from the airport.

Piazzale Roma is a lively place. We arrived there almost at midnight, still life was buzzing there. Buses arrived and departed, people with and without suitcases moved around the square. There is also such a type of transport as a monorail, - he also rolled up. The monorail runs from Tronchetto to Piazzale Roma.

Budget hotels in Venice

Before the trip, I was a little worried about how we would arrive in Venice at night and search for our hotel in the dark (I imagined a November windy night, a dark, deserted city with narrow corridors). It turns out that life in Venice is always in full swing! November, night - it doesn't matter. The streets are light. The hotel was found with incredible ease.

In Venice, I booked two different hotels. We stayed in one for one night before a cruise. In another lived after returning from a cruise.
I booked both hotels not far from Piazzale Roma, so that I could easily walk there with my suitcases. Booked through Hotellook service is a search engine that selects hotels based on offers from such booking services as Booking, Agoda, Ostrovok, etc.

The first hotel Hotel dalla Mora, Address: Salizada San Pantalon, 42. Santa Croce area.

Before that, I read that some hotels are not at all easy to find in the intricacies of Venetian nooks and crannies.

About Hotel dalla Mora I had doubts - I looked at its location on the map, and it seemed to me that it was decent to go to it and that it was located at the end of the alley. But bribed reviews about the hotel. In the end, I did not regret my choice at all and I wholeheartedly recommend it.

We arrived at Piazzale Roma at midnight. We got our bearings, crossed the first bridge, then the second, and then along the well-lit Minotto embankment, literally in 5 minutes we reached San Pantalon (or Saint Panteleimon) street, where we saw a sign with the name of our hotel.

They rang the doorbell. After a while, we were opened by a sleepy woman who turned out to be Russian-speaking (Maria Western Ukraine), quickly issued us, took us to our room, gave the keys to the hotel and our room, and we said goodbye until the morning.

The room was spacious, quite comfortable, warm (which was an important advantage for mid-November). The windows overlooked the canal. On the floor - 4 rooms. Shower and toilet are shared.

The cost per night is 60 euros for a double room. Breakfast included. Wifi is free. There are rooms with a private toilet.

Despite the deep night and a busy day, we, having settled in, nevertheless went for a walk. The area is quiet and very picturesque. We walked about 7 minutes to Scuol San Rocco and turned back.

Breakfast was declared as “sweet Italian”, and I already imagined cookies or shortbreads, but there were boiled eggs, melted cheese, croissants, muesli, in addition to coffee and tea, hot chocolate was offered. Pretty good by Italian standards.

Having vacated the room, we left our suitcases at the reception without any problems and walked until one in the afternoon, since our liner departed at five o'clock. In general, the impression was very good, and we even thought about rebooking a second hotel to this one, but in research purposes decided to look for another option budget housing in Venice.

A week later we returned from the cruise and went to check into our second hotel: Hotel Adua, address: Lista di Spagna 233/a, Cannaregio area.

From Piazzale Roma we crossed the Grand Canal on the Calatrava bridge, passed Train Station Santa Lucia and went out onto a busy street where our hotel stood. To be honest, I was surprised by the crowds on Lista di Spagna: I read that the Cannaregio area is quiet and little visited. However, after carefully looking at the map, I realized that this street is part of overland route to the Rialto Bridge and Piazza San Marco.

The building in which the Hotel Adua occupies the 2nd and 3rd floors is historical, from the 17th century, it is typical venetian palazzo There is even a small garden there. rear façade overlooks the Grand Canal.

The stairs to the 2nd floor (reception is located there) are steep and high, no ramps or elevators are provided. The hotel has a total of 13 rooms, some of them with a private bathroom (their cost is 50 euros), some are with a shared bathroom (their cost is 40 euros per room). Breakfast is paid separately - 5 euros. In addition, in Italy, a tax for accommodation is paid everywhere. In the first hotel we paid one and a half euros per person per night. In the second - two.

The rooms are small, clean, painted light green, and the furnishings (furniture, decor) reminded me of a kindergarten. Everything is very modest.

You can try to find not a hotel, but a room or an apartment directly from the owners of apartments in Venice on the website Airbnb. By registering with my invitation link, you get a 30 euro discount on your first booking.

Read about the features of living in a rented apartment in Venice

We did not order breakfast as there were many shops and cafes on the street, and here we smoothly move on to the next section.

Where to eat cheap in Venice

As experience shows, the first meal in a new city is not very successful and expensive, and with each new day you eat tastier and cheaper. So for the first time we had a completely ordinary lunch, not very tasty, paid 12 euros for a hot dish and 5 for a glass of wine, and this is the usual average price in city trattorias. However, later we got our bearings on the terrain, and the costs were optimized.

Almost opposite our hotel was a pizzeria where we had breakfast. A cup of cappuccino and a good slice of pizza cost 4 euros per person. It was open from early morning until late evening.

A bit further ( the exact address Lista di Spagna, 124) was a self-service cafe Brek. IN northern Italy cafes of this network are found in several cities (Milan, Verona, Padua, etc.). Addresses and menus can be found on their website brek.com.

These cafes offer set lunches for 6-90 euros and dinners for 10-90.

The proximity of this cafe to our hotel added value to the hotel because the food was delicious and cheap. Although at first we ignored this cafe, because it looked like a diner. I had to go through the hall with a buffet, and there was already a self-service hall. The place is visited, many locals. A small bottle of wine (as an addition to dinner) - 2-90. Delicious desserts.

After 6 pm in many places in Venice, the so-called "Happy hour", "happy hour" begins, when you pay only for a drink, and snacks are included for free.

Brek also had Happy hour, it took place just in the first part of the cafe (which is like a diner) and cost 4 euros. The set of snacks is modest: chips, sausage, something else, but the people sat tight, sipped cocktails, ate sausage with cheese, and carried on conversations.

On the streets in the fruit shops we bought fruit. Prices for grapes, citrus fruits are comparable to ours. Grapes are very tasty. Hot chestnuts are also sold throughout the city.

The girl in the souvenir shop advised us to try the local fish. When we sailed through the Venetian lagoon, we discovered a nice fish cafe on the island of Burano - it occupies a strategic position near the pier, and the people, waiting for their vaporetto, inevitably become their client.

There we ordered fried squid and fish. Food is placed on a plate made of dense dough, wrapped in foil, so that at any moment, as soon as the desired boat appears, you can tuck in the foil and go to your vaporetto, and already there, sitting on a bench and admiring seascapes, gobble up hot food, and in the end, eat a bread plate. A plate with squid (very tasty!) cost 10 euros, with fish (three large pieces) - 7.

Summing up: it is quite realistic to lay on food 20-30 euros per day.

Public transport

I already wrote about the transfer from the airport (16 euros by bus round trip). In principle, this can be limited, since in the future it is quite possible to get by with your own feet: Venice is a compact city, and you can walk to any of its six parts.

However, I would highly recommend taking at least a day ticket on the vaporetto. There is such a ticket: for 24 hours - 20 euros, for 48 - 30 euros, 72 - 40, for 7 days - 60. And you can ride it on all city routes. A single ticket for the vaporetto costs 7.50 and is valid for 70 minutes.

First of all, you must definitely swim through Grand Canal(vaparetto no. 1 and 2). We took number 1, it stops at almost every pillar, moves very slowly, but if you want to shoot the facades of the palaces overlooking the Grand Canal from all angles, then this option is perfect for you.

Vaparetto No. 2 from Piazzale Roma moves along the canal Judecca, and on the island Giudecca makes three stops. Definitely worth going to the second one - near the Redintore Cathedral, one of the masterpieces of Antonio Palladio. All his life, this architect sought to work in Venice, but Vicenza was given to his full disposal, and in Venice Palladio managed to build only two grandiose churches: Redintor on Giudecca and San Giorgio Maggiore on a nearby small island. Accordingly, having examined the first one, we move to the second one on the same vaporetto No. 2 (the interval of movement of vaporetto No. 2 is 12 minutes).

After looking southern islands, we go to the north: San Michele, Murano, Burano, Torcello. All vaporettos heading to these islands stop at Fondamento Nuove.

The closest island San Michele, which houses the city cemetery (Cimitero). There, in particular, Brodsky, Stravinsky, Diaghilev, Pyotr Vail are buried. Only vaporetto nos. 4.1 and 4.2 stop on this island. Their route is the same, only 4.1 goes counterclockwise, and 4.2 goes along. The interval of movement is 20 minutes. From San Michele they continue on to Murano.

On Murano these vaporettos (4.1 and 4.2, as well as night vaporetto N) have 7 stops. Better get off at the 5th, Da Mula (at the Palazzo Vivarini, now there historical Museum) or 6th - Museo (there is the Museum of Glass and main cathedral Murano with a golden mosaic in the apse - the church of Santa Maria and Donato).

After seeing the museum and mosaics, head to the Faro (lighthouse) stop. This is the main stop of the island of Murano, where all the vaporettos passing by the island stop. The lighthouse is visible from afar, the path to it runs first along the canal, then along a wide street. On the way there are numerous shops with virtuoso glassware, you want to look into each of them and admire.

Near the lighthouse, in particular, vaporetto No. 12 stops, on which you can get to the island Burano. These vaparettos are large, roomy (don't let the crowds on the pier scare you, everyone will fit in), they go every half hour. It takes quite a long time to get to Burano, about half an hour. There will be small islands along the way.

If Murano specialized in glassware, then Burano is famous for its lace. You will immediately see it - sewing is everywhere here, like on Murano - glass. There is a Lace Museum. The islet is very picturesque, it is customary to brightly paint the facades here.

There is an island near Burano Torcello, touching in its desolation, with the magnificent church of Santa Maria Assunta, the bell tower and the stone throne of Attila (supposedly) on main square. Vaparetto No. 9 runs between Burano and Torcello.

From Torcello we return to Venice. A trip to all these islands can be made in a day and fit into a daily ticket for 20 euros.

In summer, routes to the islands are in demand (there are hotels with beaches) and Punta Sabbioni(there are also beaches and camping). These islands close the Venetian lagoon.

Vaparetto tickets are purchased at the box office on piazzale Roma, at newsstands, at major stops such as Ferrovia (opposite the train station) or Piazza San Marco.

Here is one of these ticket kiosks - to the left of Calatrava bridge:

Before use, the ticket must be validated - attach to the validator before boarding. It doesn't print anything, it just squeaks. From this time (beep) will be counted 24 hours (if you bought a ticket for a day).

The vaparetto route scheme at first causes rejection and unwillingness to understand all these intricacies. However, you will quickly figure it out if necessary. At each stop it is written which numbers pass through it, which stops. Vaparettos are frequent, the traffic is well organized.

Vaparetto movement scheme. Left - validator

There are no ticket offices at most stops; a single ticket can be bought on the boat. Tickets were never checked when boarding the ship. The ticket was taken out of the pocket only once - at the San Marco stop, the passage was carried out through the turnstiles.

There is another form of transport traghetto. This is a large gondola that carries passengers from one side of the Grand Canal to the other. The crossing costs half a euro. In total, there are 7 such crossings along the Grand Canal.

Traghetto stops look like this:

Museum cards

In many tourist cities, there are museum cards that allow you to visit certain city museums. But if, say, in Paris, cards differ only in the period of use (for 3 days, for 5, etc.), then in Venice there is an abundance different types museum maps are somewhat confusing.

Let's say there is a so-called map of Horus(Chorus Pass), through which you can visit 16 churches that are members of the Horus Association. The Horus pass costs 12 euros and is valid for a year. It is unnamed, it can be transferred to another person.

A regular ticket in the church costs 3 euros. Churches are open to the public from Monday to Saturday, from 10 am to 5 pm. Visiting four churches from this list pays off with the Chorus Pass museum card.

However, many churches in Venice are free, offhand: San Jeremiah, Santa Maria di Nazareth, San Pantalon, the same Cathedral of San Marco. And, say, the Church of San Donato on Murano is paid, but is not included in the Horus Pass (details about the churches of Venice -).

The next type of museum maps of Venice - museum pass. This card opens the entrance to all city museums in Venice, costs 24 euros and is valid for six months.

You can take a card San Marco City Pass, which includes only 4 museums in St. Mark's Square (including the Doge's Palace) and three churches from the Horus list. Valid for a week, costs 27 euros.

40 euros worth All Venice City Pass- the most complete of the museum maps: all the museums and churches of Venice are at your disposal for a week. Read about museums and museum cards.

In addition to museum cards, before visiting Venice, you can get yourself a single card. The card is bought on the official tourist website of Venice https://www.veneziaunica.it/, while you yourself determine what set of services you need.

Let's say you want a three-day travel pass, visits to the museums in San Marco + three churches, parking in Piazzale Roma, a discount at a restaurant. Collect, look at the amount, pay. The range of services even includes visiting public paid toilets, connecting to the Internet via Wi-Fi in certain places. Schemes of public toilets and Wi-Fi points are attached. In general, the site is very intelligible and user-friendly.

Regarding toilets, public toilets in Venice are paid. The way out is a place of spiritual and physical food, i.e. cafes and museums. Moreover, it is not always necessary to go to the museum to get into the institution: toilet rooms are sometimes located in the entrance lobby, in the same place as the ticket office. Let's say the Palazzo Ca Rezzonico. Behind the entrance gate to the right there is a passage to the pier (through the courtyard). On the left along the way - the museum ticket office, on the right - free toilets (similarly - in Ca Pesaro, Ca Mocenigo, in the Museum of Natural History).

You can walk around the pretty garden at the Rezzonico Palace, it's also free (from the entrance - to the left).

We met a free toilet on the island of San Michele - right next to the pier to the right. And on the island of San Giorgio, amenities can be found in the Cheney Foundation Gallery, the gallery is located behind the church.

In general, there were no problems.

Returning to the topic of museum maps, I can advise the following. If you are in Venice for the first time and arrived for a day or two, then just walk around the city. The main attraction of Venice is the city itself, the interweaving of its streets and canals, narrow passages and wide squares, the luxury of church facades and interspersed parks. Go to the Church of San Marco, find the Bovolo stairs - even a simple walk through the Venetian nooks and crannies with a guidebook turns into an exciting quest, and beauty lies in wait for you at every step.

If you are here for a week or more, take the All Venice City Pass. Or intermediate options, depending on your tastes and intentions.

If you are traveling with a family or a company, you can order. Tours are conducted for a small group in Russian.

Tickets for La Fenice and Malibran theaters

La Fenice is the main opera house in Venice. The story of this "Phoenix" serves as a vivid illustration of the saying "whatever you call a ship, so it will fly." Named after the bird Phoenix, and in accordance with this name, La Fenice burned out several times, and then rose from the ashes.

After a fire in 1996, the theater was closed for 8 years, and its productions were staged at the Malibran Theatre. Now it has been restored in its original form, with the former luxury. And you need to go there not only for the sake of the opera performance, but also to get an idea in what interiors the Venetian public listened to art.
However, you can go on an excursion to the theater separately. A ticket for such an excursion costs 10 euros. The theater is open for visits from 9:30 to 18:00 (the time may vary depending on the calendar of artistic events, so it is better to go in the morning).

Theater tickets start at 30 euros. It is better to buy tickets in advance.

Souvenirs

The general rule is not to buy anything in crowded places. It is worth stepping aside, and the stole, which was sold for 8 euros on the Schiavoni embankment near San Marco, is already being sold for 5, and a T-shirt for 12 already costs 8 euros.

There are nice souvenir shops in Venice with "1 euro" signs. Indeed, they sell souvenirs for 1 euro. For the most part, these are Venetian glass pendants (some are very pretty), sets of glass beads for homemade beads, magnets in the form of masks (although they are made rather carelessly, you need to look for a good copy), fans, jewelry boxes, pictures. So you can look at small things there.

The most popular souvenirs in this city are Venetian masks and they are sold on every street corner.

Of course, a large selection of Murano glass products. Here are decorations, and original vases, figurines, and watches. I can’t guarantee that everything is definitely cheaper on the island of Murano than in Venice, but there is more choice. Moreover, in neighboring shops, products can differ strikingly - in style, in spirit, in color. You can walk around Murano like one endless museum: at every step you will find countless works of art, original and unexpected. If you do not buy, then at least please the eye.

For lace we go to Burano. To be honest, I was more attracted to Burano by the colorful houses lined up along the canals, and I casually looked at the exposed lace. There are not as many lace shops there as glass shops in Murano, but still enough.

When is the best time to visit Venice

The least I liked in Venice in the summer. Crowded, bustling, hot.

In the spring, in April, it was very pleasant, but still there were too many people.

The most wondrous memories remained from the February Venice. It is dank, cloudy, but the fogs are simply magical. Gondolas sway in the haze. I walked around the city as if mesmerized.

Winter suits Venice very well. Winter and night.

Be sure to spend the night in Venice.

Brodsky from year to year came to Venice in the winter, around Christmas. He wrote a magical thing - "The Embankment of the Incurable", as mesmerizing as Venice in winter.

Summary

What do we end up with?

So, offhand: 200 euros for an air ticket, transfer and insurance - another 20, 20 euros - a daily ticket for a vaporetto, 12 euros - a Horus-pass card. Already 252 euros.

Total minimum - 550-600 euros for 5 nights (6 days).

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