The ancient city of Mangup-Kale: a unique open-air museum in the Crimea. The cave city of Mangup-Kale is a stone miracle on the Crimean plateau

Official information
Medieval city fortress in

Bakhchisarai region of Crimea.

Height 583 m.

General information about Mangup-Kale (according to published sources)

The historical name of Mangup-Kale is Baba-Dag, Father Mountain. The capital of the Principality of Theodoro (Crimean Gothia), then a Turkish fortress. It is located on the top of a mountain-outlier with an area of ​​about 90 hectares. On the territory of the fortress there are two large springs (there are more than fifteen in total), which later became known as Male and Female. In 1975, the eponymous complex natural monument of national importance was created on the territory of the fortress.

Mangup-Kale is located on the plateau of the Baba-Dag remnant mountain. The highest height is 583 m. The mountain is a detached elevation, abruptly ending to the south. On the north side, the mountain has four extended ledges called capes. The westernmost ledge is called Chamny-burun, the second from the west is Chufut-Cheargan-burun, the next is Elli-burun and, finally, the easternmost is Teshkli-burun (Crimean Tatar. "Cape with a hole", got its name because of the through grotto , formed as a result of the collapse of an artificial cave called Baraban-Koba). There are ravines between the capes, each of which also has its own name: from west to east - Tabana-dere, Gamam-dere, and Kapu-dere.

In the III-IV centuries, the Mangup plateau was inhabited by Scythians Sarmatians.

In the 4th-5th centuries, a settlement of Alans and Goths appeared on the plateau, and catacomb burial grounds in the surrounding beams.

The first fortifications were built in the second half of the 5th century. At that time the city was calledDorosand was the capital of the country Dori - Crimean Gothia. In the VI century, a monumental basilica was erected on the plateau, the city became the center of the Goth diocese in the Crimea.

At the end of the 7th century, the Khazar Khaganate subjugates Doros. The city briefly hosts a Khazar garrison. The capture of Doros served as a signal for the beginning of the anti-Khazar uprising, led by St. John of Gotha.

XIII - mid-XV the city was the capital of the late Byzantine principality of Theodoro, who controlled the South-Western Crimea and was under the influence of Byzantium. The city itself was also calledTheodoro. It is from this era that numerous artificial caves, defensive walls, foundations of basilicas and the ruins of the citadel on Cape Teshkli Burun have been preserved.

1475. The city, after a six-month siege of Mangup, like the entire principality, was captured Ottoman troops. The Ottomans rebuilt the fortress, which during their reign was calledMangup-Kale- Mangup fortress). Until 1774, Mangup was the center of a kadylyk (the smallest administrative-territorial unit of the Ottoman state), which was part of eyalet (provinces) with the center in Kef (Feodosia).

1774 The fortress was abandoned by the Turkish garrison.

1790 Mangup left the last inhabitants - the community of Karaites. Remains of a Karaite cemetery have been preserved in the Tabana-Dere ravine

Mangup-Kale is the largest cave city in the Crimea, which occupied the plateau of the mountain of the same name with an area of ​​almost a square kilometer. Nature has made this plateau an excellent place for building a fortified city: it rises above the neighboring valleys by more than 200 meters , on three sides it is protected by steep cliffs, and most importantly, the plateau has two sources of water. People, of course, took advantage of this.

On this moment historians do not have a common opinion about the time of the settlement on Mangup. The most common version says that already in the first centuries of our era, Scythian-Sarmatian settlements existed on the plateau. Later, around the 4th century, the Goths settled on the plateau, by that time already cultivated and “cursed”. They are associated with the appearance of the first fortress on Cape Teshkli-Burun in the 5th-6th centuries AD.

Over time, the city develops and grows on almost the entire plateau. With the help of the Roman Empire, and in particular Chersonese, whose ally, like other "cave cities"(Chufut-Kale, Eski-Kermen)was Mangup, a basilica and new fortifications are being built. At the same time, part of the plateau outside the walls remained undeveloped, presumably so that the population of the valleys could wait out the enemy invasion on it. During this period, the city is the capital of the small state of Dori, or the Crimean Gothia, and is called Doros.

The next major milestone in the history of the cave city was the invasion of the Khazars, and later the capture of Doros by them. It is believed that it was the Khazars who first called the city Mangup. The capture provoked an uprising, which, despite the successes achieved, was quickly curtailed by its own leaders, due to changes in the situation in the Byzantine Empire.

In the 9th century, the Khazars weakened, and the Byzantine Empire strengthened again on the Crimean peninsula, and the entire southwestern Taurica united around Chersonesus.

In the 10th-11th centuries, it is believed that life on Mangup stops. Possible reasons include an earthquake, civil strife, and even the absence of danger - people simply descended into more comfortable valleys. Be that as it may, but in the 13th century life on Mangup was in full swing again. At this time, it is called Theodoro and is the capital of the principality of the same name.

How fortified and strong the city was during this period can be judged by the fact that it resisted in 1299, when Nogai defeated other cities of the southwestern Crimea, and in 1399, when Khan Edigey destroyed many cities, including Chersonese. True, the principality then nevertheless lost part of its possessions.

The plateau is shaped like a hand with four fingers in the form of protrusions-capes. The city itself was located on the two right of them, and the workshops of artisans were located on the left. The southern and western sides end with cliffs, and four rocky capes extend from the northern part, which also end with cliffs. The Leaky Cape is completely indented by caves, which is the reason for its name. The pine cape is covered with the remains of a pine forest.

A community of Karaites lived on the Cape of the Challenge of the Jews, and in this part of the cave city you can visit the ancient Karaite cemetery with partially preserved tombstones with inscriptions in Hebrew.

Karaite cemetery in Mangup-Kale: stone slabs with inscriptions

Between these capes there are three ravines, along the paths of which you can climb Mangup.

The ravines of Mangup-Kale:
The path leads along this ravine to the stone gatehouse Mangup-Kale	View of the ravine from the stone gatehouse Mangup-Kale

Living quarters in the Mangupa cave: view of the ravine	It seems that in the same cave, Friedrich Gross made sketches for the future lithograph "Teshkli-burun"

In the Kozhevenny ravine, the Karaites were engaged in leather dressing, and traces of their activity in the form of stone baths for processing skins are still preserved here. Stone baths were carved in the rocks of Mangup for a variety of purposes.

Stone baths of the cave city of Mangup-Kale:
catchment	Burials of the inhabitants of Mangup-Kale carved into the rock

In the Banny ravine, there was once a Turkish bath. In the Kapu-Dere ravine, which means "Gate ravine", the main city gates were located.

The main city gate of Mangup-Kale	So in the middle of the 19th century the fortress gates of Mangup-Kale looked in the Kapu-dere beam. The dark openings above the gates are the entrances to the burial chambers. Lithograph by F. Gross

Here, in ancient times, there was also an extended fortress wall with watchtowers. In total there were three natural approaches to the fortress, but all of them were protected. Now it is best to climb to the cave city of Mangup-Kale along tourist trail with signs along the ravine overgrown with ivy. So you can climb the plateau, going straight to the fortress wall.

Rise to the defensive wall of Mangup-Kale	early 16th century

People have lived in these places for a long time. Among historians, there is no unambiguous opinion about the time of the emergence of this cave city. Some believe that Mangup-Kale arose back in the 6th century and it was then that it was already the center of Taurica, while others suggest that it was formed in the Middle Ages after the decline of the city of Eski-Kermen, and most of the structures of this cave city that have survived to this day are referred to as times to the Middle Ages.

According to archaeological research, the first settlers appeared on Mangup-Kala 5 thousand years ago. Tauris and Alans lived here, and, starting from the 6th century, Mangup becomes one of the important outposts of the Byzantines, and receives the name "Doros" from them. The Byzantines were replaced by the Khazars, and it was under them that the name “Mangup” appeared, under which this cave city is known even now. By the XIV century. this fortress on an impregnable plateau becomes the center of the Principality of Theodoro, whose territory stretched from Chersonese to modern Alushta.

But by the end of the fifteenth century The city was taken over by the Turks after a long siege. It was under the Turks that the word “Kale” was added to the name of the citadel, which just means a fortress.

The last inhabitants of these places were the Karaites, who left the outpost at the end of the 18th century, after the annexation of Crimea to Russia, when the city was away from trade routes and simply fell into decay, turning into another deserted stone monastery, which has seen many historical events in its lifetime. Mangup-Kale attracted attention only a century after the devastation. Members of the Crimean Mountain Club became interested in the abandoned ancient city on the plateau, and they became the “pioneers” of Mangup.

Journey through Mangup-Kale

The total area of ​​this cave city of Crimea is about 90 hectares, and the length of all fences (both natural and artificial) is about 7 km. One of the amazing features of Mangup is springs at an altitude of 600 m above sea level. One of them is hidden in a limestone grotto. The other two - "male" and "female" are actually the remains of destroyed fountains .

One of the main attractions of Mangup-Kale is a dilapidated but still preserved citadel located on Leaky Cape. Here you can see the remains of a defensive fortress with main tower in the center, which in former times served as the residence of the Mangup princes. This tower consisted of two upper residential and lower arsenal tiers.

According to some cuttings in the rocks, it is possible to partially determine the layout of underground temples and above-ground residential and outbuildings. On the same cape, you can spot the ruins of a small octagonal church. An old stone road runs along the eastern and western cliffs and traces of cave structures are noticeable, among which there are numerous two-tier caves of artificial origin.

	Staircase to the second underground floor artificial cave in Mangup-Kale

At the farthest tip of the cape, a watch tower has been preserved, along the steps of the stairs in which you can go down to the largest artificial cave of Mangup-Kale - Drum-Koba. There is a column in it, hitting which, you can hear a distinct sound, similar to hitting a drum. Initially, this cave was part of the monastery complex, and in the Turkish period it served as a dungeon.

drum room in Mangup-Kale

In the northern part of the cape, near the cliff, there is a deep (up to 24 m) well. Travelers who visited Mangup-Kale in the Middle Ages assured that it was difficult to find a more majestic city than the capital of Theodoro, and talked about a flowering garden of Eden on an impregnable mountain plateau, with magnificent fountains, from which only two springs remain today.

There were many churches on Mangup, but only the one that is located outside the city, near the cave monastery, has been best preserved. It has preserved ancient frescoes on the walls and several tombs. It is from here that you can go down to the village of Ternovka or climb the plateau again, from which a picturesque view will open: the majestic main ridge of the Crimean Mountains, part of the Northern Bay of Sevastopol and the Kalamita fortress near Inkerman.

The most ancient temple building of Mangup-Kale is the temple of Constantine and Helena, from which almost nothing remains, only the ruins of the foundation. Most of the plateau is overgrown with trees, grass and shrubs, hiding the remains of buildings. ancient settlement. Through these picturesque thickets, in some places you can still notice the outlines of the building blocks and former streets of the city.

Mystical charm of Mangup

Like any ancient structures, they surround Mangup-Kale and Mystic stories. One of the most famous legends, which is well known among locals and tourists, is about a Mangup boy. Either during the construction of the citadel, or during its defense, the son of the ruler of Mangup died, and his restless spirit, who wants to take revenge on strangers, still roams the environs of the cave city, frightening travelers. Therefore, they say that you should not walk around Mangup-Kala at night. Although, hippies and other Crimean informals who have chosen this place, it seems, are not afraid of any ancient legends, and on many walls you can see not only ancient frescoes, but also more modern original paintings. In memory of the legend, at the beginning of one of the paths leading to the cave city, there is a relief of this Mangup boy.

Mangup-Kale is a place in Crimea that is definitely worth a visit. It attracts historians and archaeologists who dream of penetrating the mysteries ancient city; artists trying to convey all the charm of Mangup-Kale and its environs through their paintings; non-formals seeking to merge with nature; and just curious travelers who want to personally contemplate the history of the ancient fortress on a high impregnable plateau. Many believe that this place has a mystical appeal, and legends say that Mangup-Kale unites the hearts of people.

The artificial lake located at the foot of the plateau, created in 1995, gives a special charm to Mangupu. The remains of an ancient basilica and a medieval settlement are hidden at the bottom, and the reservoir itself is also famous for the presence of healing blue clay. Surrounded by majestic mountains, the lake looks especially bewitching. Here you will be offered to ride around the outskirts of Mangup on horseback.

Excursions in Crimea, including a trip to Mangup, start from any resort corner of the peninsula. The easiest way to get there is from Sevastopol and Bakhchisaray, from which you can actually take a minibus to the foot of the plateau, where this cave city of Crimea is located.

The village of Khoja-sala, located 20 km from Sevastopol, is one of the best places to start a hiking trip to Mangup-Kale. The plateau is quite extensive and it is worth setting aside a full day to fully explore it.

See photos of the cave city of Mangup-Kale in our gallery

Page materials are based on an author's article by Skywriter13

Mangup

The cultural and educational machine of the Russian Federation is now very quickly and fairly well fulfilling the task of "sewing" the history of the Crimea to Russian history and culture. There can be no talk of a stitched face, neat, therefore, "spiritual braces" are used, which quite roughly attract often very incompatible tissues. But in the case of Mangup-Kale (Mount Babadag), where the Principality of Theodoro located its capital in the 14-15 centuries, and the Crimea, and the Russian Federation (by the way, in the person of such a subject as Tatarstan, the bearer of the tourist heritage of the Golden Horde), we all have undeniable and powerful artifact. This is the ancient coat of arms of the Byzantine imperial dynasty of Palaiologos - a double-headed eagle.

Since 1425, the Principality of Theodoro has shown unprecedented military, spiritual and economic activity against Catholics - Genoese merchants, relying on two powerful ideological images. This is the legend of the Golden Cradle (Altyn Beshik) and the double-headed eagle coat of arms.

We will immediately express a seditious thought: the union in 1475 of the Crimean Khan Mengli Giray with the defenders of the Mangup fortress against the Ottoman army had a clear economic basis. Prior to this, the young Crimean Khanate fought against the Genoese for access to the sea (Pomorie of Princes Theodoro). After the successful destruction of the Genoese corps by Carlo Lomellino in 1434, Mengli Giray could not afford to give away the lands of the allied feodorites of Ottoman Turkey. After all, it is also an exit to the pastures of Yayla.

As part of the tasks of tourism rebranding for our long-term program RUSSIAN SOUTH, we will begin a discussion on how to develop scientifically and with maximum benefit for tourism, a new tourist brand Mangup - the Nest of the Two-Headed Eagle.

The cave city of Mangup (Mangup-kale, kale - a fortress, Turk.) is located in the Bakhchisarai region between the village. Red Poppy and s. Ternovka. The Babadag plateau (mountain of ancestors, Iranian), raised to 600 meters, with an area of ​​​​about 90 hectares, has been impregnable fortress. In the Middle Ages, it was the capital of one of the last fragments of the Byzantine Empire - the Principality of Theodoro, which owned a significant part of Mountain Crimea, as well as the coast from the current Alushta to the current Balaklava and Inkerman.

At the foot of the mountain range is located with. Khoja-sala, an artificial lake and a large meadow. There is a parking lot, a tourist shelter, cafes, retail outlets and capital establishments with rooms. You have to pay for the entrance to the territory of the Mangup reserve, as well as for other sights of the Crimea, the climb is difficult.

People lived here in ordinary houses, but for military purposes, as well as for warehouses, prisons, etc. used natural karst cavities, leveling and deepening them. The most spectacular rock ledge is called Teshkli-burun (Cape Leaky). Here they were located in different times treasury, a prison with a torture chamber, a monastery.

The main excavations are being carried out at the Citadel of the fortress. The siege in 1475 lasted six months, the losses amounted to 7 thousand Janissaries. In the entire history of the Turkish Empire, there has never been such a heavy victory. Not less than interesting place on Mangup - a monastery in the southern cliff, which can be reached by a steep path or an underground passage.

When analyzing a large archive of the Basel Church Cathedral (1433-1435), Wackernagel unexpectedly stumbled upon the diary of Andrei Gatari, a Padua chronicler of the 15th century, in which, without any connection with numerous information about the cathedral, the author placed a story about Lomellino's campaign in the Crimea in 1434 year. This trip will be the story.

The story of the campaign of Charles Lomellino is, in all likelihood, a report from Kafa of a Venetian spy who either directly took part in the campaign or collected details eyewitnesses in the Cafe. Be that as it may, the Gatari document, apparently unofficial, detailed and accurate. He gives a complete picture of both the siege and capture of Cembalo by the Genoese, and their defeat near Solkhat.

But let's start in order. After the formation of the Crimean Khanate, Hadji Giray set out to seize control of the entire southern coast, in order to control the entire maritime border, with several strong fortresses and good ports from Eni-Kale to the mouth of the Dnieper. To this end, Hadji Giray began to negotiate with the Mangup prince Alexei on the capture of the Genoese fortress of Chembalo. Taking advantage of the weakening of the military, financial and state forces of the Republic of Genoa, which at that moment was at war with the King of Aragon, Alexei began to present his claims to Gothia to the Kathinsky consul Batista de Fornari. The consul, being unable to independently provide sufficient and immediate resistance to these nit-picking of the Mangup prince, decided to drag out the issue through negotiations and correspondence with Alexei, promising to give him a speedy answer from the metropolitan government requested on this matter. In this diplomatic way, Hornari believed to gain time until the arrival of reinforcements from Genoa and to supply Cembalo, in the event of an attack, with the necessary means, a garrison, provisions and ammunition.

We recommend to study the entire publication http://www.qrim.ru/pages/east-crimea/articles/?id=560 for more details, but the main thing is already clear - the Crimean Khanate and the Principality of Theodoro were natural allies. The Crimean Tatars needed the Crimean Greeks as sailors. The Genoese were natural allies of the Golden Horde, which could not allow the independence of the Crimean Khanate and the loss of control over European trade routes.

3. Crimean Khan Mengli Giray (Gerai)

Mengli I Gerai (Girey) (Crimea I Meñli Geray, ١ منكلى كراى‎; 1445-1515) - Crimean Khan (1467, 1469-1475, 1478-1515) from the Geraev dynasty. The sixth son of the first Crimean Khan Haji I Giray, grandfather of the Sultan Ottoman Empire Suleiman the Magnificent.

Mengli Giray, presumably, was brought up in the Genoese city-colony of Kaffa. It is known that he knew the Genoese dialect, poetry and history. It was common for that time to consolidate peaceful relations with dangerous neighbors, sending amanats - honorary hostages, sons from the age of 12 to them for education. Amanat was brought up together with the children of the most influential aristocrats, received a comprehensive military and secular education.

In August 1466, the first Crimean Khan Hadji I Gerai (1441-1466) died. In autumn, the Crimean beys elected his eldest son Nur-Devlet as the new khan. His younger brother Mengli Giray, the sixth son of Haji Giray, began the struggle for the Crimean khan's throne. Nur-Devlet relied on the support of the khans of the Great Horde (Volga region), and Mengli Giray enjoyed the support of the Crimean nobility - primarily the richest kind of Shirin.

Beylik (specific principality) Shirin included lands from Kerch to Belogorsk, controlled international trade from the Black Sea ports to Moscow and Veliky Novgorod. The basis of Shirin Bey's wealth was taxes from Armenians, Greeks, Karaites, Krymchaks and other settled population. The Russian communities of Sudak and Solkhat (Old Crimea) are also known. A special influential group was the Surozh guests - Moscow and Novgorod merchants who supplied spices, jewelry and oriental fabrics.

In 1467, Mengli Giray overthrew his elder brother Nur-Devlet and occupied the khan's capital Kyrk-Er (the cave city of Chufut-Kale), but the first attempt to seize the throne was unsuccessful. Soon Nur-Devlet returned and expelled his rival younger brother. Mengli Giray fled to Kafa, where he turned to the Genoese for military assistance. In addition, large Crimean beys led by Mamak-bey Shirin, dissatisfied with Nur-Devlet's policy, also came out in support of Mengli Giray. Mengli Gerai was able to establish himself on the throne two years later with the support of the Crimean beys.

Photo active, adventure, health tours in Crimea

In June 1468, Mengli Giray arrived in Kafu. The Genoese consul Gentile Camilla provided a solemn ceremony, and the Crimean beys solemnly elected Mengli Geray Khan. Soon Mengli Giray with a Genoese detachment and Bey cavalry detachments set off on a campaign against Kyrk-Er, the capital of the Crimean Khanate. At the beginning of 1469, Mengli Giray occupied the Khan's capital and expelled Nur-Devlet from there, who fled from Kyrk-Era to the North Caucasus, from where he turned to the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II Fatih for help in the fight against Mengli Giray and his Genoese allies. The Kaffa consul organized a military campaign against his North Caucasian possessions, during which Nur-Devlet himself was taken prisoner along with three younger brothers. Nur-Devlet was taken to Kafa and taken into custody. Soon Nur-Devlet and his brothers were moved from Kafa to the fortress of Soldaya.

The Crimean Khan Mengli Gerai stopped the wars between the Crimean Greeks and the Genoese, which lasted from 1381, united the entire Crimea, concluded an alliance treaty with Kafa and the Principality of Theodoro (Gothia), directed against the Ottoman Empire. In the summer of 1469, a Turkish fleet appeared in the vicinity of Kafa under the leadership of Yakub Bey. The Ottoman Turks landed under the fortress, burned several villages and captured prisoners. In response, the Crimean Khan Mengli Gerai sent a letter to the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed Fatih, in which he stated: "The damage caused to Kaffa is the damage caused to me."

In the autumn of 1473, the great Crimean Murza Mamak-bey, the head of the Shirin clan, died. His younger brothers Kara-Mirza and Eminek began to apply for the vacant post. Soon, Sheydak, the son of Mamak, began to claim the title of Shirin Bey. Rivals had support in different camps - at the court of the Crimean Khan, in Kaffa and in the Great Horde (Don and the Volga region).

In March 1475, large Crimean beys at a meeting in the capital deposed Khan Mengli Gerai, who had taken refuge with the Genoese in Cafe. Ayder, the elder brother of Mengli Giray, was elected the new Crimean Khan. Meanwhile, Eminek Shirin, dissatisfied with his exile, sent a letter to Istanbul, asking Sultan Mehmed Fatih to undertake a campaign against Kafa and promising the Turks his help in conquering the Genoese colonies in the Crimea.

In May 1475, the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II Fatih (the Conqueror) (1451-1481) organized a large military campaign against the Genoese possessions in the Crimea. The Turkish fleet, led by the Grand Vizier Gedik Ahmed Pasha, appeared under the walls of Kafa on May 31. The Turkish army landed on the shore, where Eminek Bey Shirin joined him with the Tatar cavalry. The Ottoman Turks, with the support of the Tatars, laid siege to Kafa and began shelling the city with artillery.

During the siege of Kafa, the overthrown Khan Mengli Giray fought on the side of his Genoese allies with a detachment of 1,500 of his supporters. On June 6, Kafa capitulated and surrendered to the Turkish army. The Ottoman Turks occupied Kafa, where they executed three hundred Genoese and imposed a huge indemnity on the city. Having captured Kafa, the Ottoman commander Gedik Ahmed Pasha sent an army to conquer the rest of the Genoese fortresses. The Turks took Soldaya (Sudak), Chembalo (Balaklava), Kalamita (Inkerman) and laid siege to the Gothic capital of Theodoro - Mangup.

In December 1475, after a five-month siege, the Ottoman Turks stormed and destroyed Mangup, the capital of the Principality of Theodoro. It is known that the rich people of the city and the ruling prince wanted to surrender the fortress on honorable terms. But the young prince of Theodorites, with the support of Mengli Giray's cavalry, successfully defended the city, until, during the departure of the Crimean Tatars to hunt to replenish food, supporters of the Turks did not let them in behind the fortress walls of the first line.

Nur-Devlet, who regained the khan's throne, recognized himself as a vassal and tributary of the Ottoman sultan. At the same time, he did not claim the former lands of the Genoese and the possession of two Orthodox principalities Kyrk El (a country of 40 lands) and Theodoro, who had already united before that peace treaties Mengli Giray.

Photo active, adventure, health tours in Crimea

During the Ottoman conquest of the Crimea in 1475, Khan Mengli Gerai was removed from the throne for the fight against the Ottoman Turks, captured and taken to Constantinople, where he spent three years in captivity by Sultan Mehmed II Fatih.

In 1476, Khan of the Great Horde Akhmat, who sought to subjugate all the fragments of the once powerful Golden Horde to his supreme power, organized a military campaign against the Crimean Khanate and Moldova. The devastating battles between Tatars and Tatars strengthened the desire for peace among the Crimean aristocrats.

Eminek Bey Shirin sent a message to the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed Fatih in Istanbul, asking him to release Mengli Giray from captivity and establish him as the Crimean Khan. The head of Shirinov wrote to the Sultan: “Nur-Devlet and Ayder do not want to reconcile and do not listen to my advice. If Mengli-Gerai return to the Crimea, then the entire population will submit to him and will follow his orders… do me a favor, appoint Mengli Gerai until the Horde Khan approaches the Crimea: only in this way can we save our country… If you immediately send Mengli Gerai to us - You will restore order in our state, and Allah will reward you in both worlds.

Our wish is that you command Mengli Geray: “Engage diligently in the affairs of the country and do not reject the advice of Eminek.” The rest is up to you." Thus, the Shirin clan and the entire Crimean aristocracy confronted the Turkish sultan with a fact: we need an influential Khan Chingizid, who will rule in the Crimean interests - primarily trade.

In the spring of 1478, the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed Fatih released the Crimean Khan Mengli Giray from captivity. He was released to the Crimea and restored to the khan's throne on the condition that henceforth the Crimea would be under the supreme authority of the Ottoman Empire. Mengli Giray with Turkish janissaries sailed to Kafa, soon large Tatar beys under the leadership of Eminek crossed over to his side. Mengli Gerai occupied Eski-Kyrym and Kyrk-Er, where he was proclaimed the new Crimean Khan by the beys.

His older brothers and opponents Nur-Devlet and Ayder fled to the Polish-Lithuanian possessions. The Polish king and the Grand Duke of Lithuania Kazamir Jagiellonchik settled them in Kyiv. In 1479, the Grand Duke of Moscow Ivan III Vasilyevich was able to lure the princes Nur-Devlet and Ayder, the elder brothers of Mengli Giray, into his service. Nur-Devlet (d. 1503) received possession of the Kasimov inheritance, and after a while Ayder fell into disgrace and was sent by the Grand Duke into exile in Beloozero, where he died in 1487. Another brother Oz-Demir fled from the Crimea to the Great Horde, and from there moved to Lithuania. The younger brothers Yamgurchi and Melek-Emin remained in their homeland and lived in peace with the khan. Yamgurchi was appointed by Mengli Gerai as the first kalga.

The main foreign policy goal of Mengli Giray after 1478 was the fight against the Great Horde, which was ruled by the heirs of the Golden Horde khans, and which claimed the entire "legacy" of the Golden Horde. A natural ally in this struggle was the Grand Duke of Moscow Ivan III Vasilyevich (1462-1505), which worsened relations between Crimea and the enemy of the Russian state, the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. The Russian state, the Crimean Khanate and the Moldavian principality, which was at the peak of its development led by Stephen the Great, formed a coalition directed against Lithuania and Poland. So the Muslims, Jews and Orthodox of Crimea united against the Catholics of the Commonwealth! But the point is not in religious denominations, but in the logic of economic development and the too rigid feudal model of the Polish-Lithuanian magnates.

The Grand Duke of Moscow Ivan III Vasilyevich and the Crimean Khan Mengli Gerai concluded a military-political treaty directed against the Great Horde, the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and the Kingdom of Poland. In 1480, during the “standing on the Ugra River”, the Crimean Khan Mengli Gerai made a trip to Podolia, forcing the Grand Duke of Lithuania Casimir Jagiellon to abandon the attack on the Russian state planned jointly with the Khan of the Great Horde Akhmat. Russian troops under the command of Grand Duke Ivan III met the Golden Horde army on the banks of the Ugra River, did not give the Tatars the opportunity to cross to the other side, and then forced them to hastily retreat to their steppes.

In January 1481, the last Khan of the Golden Horde, Akhmat (Ahmed Khan), an opponent of Mengli Gerai, was killed in his camp near Azov by the Siberian Khan Ibak and the Nogai Murzas Yamgurchi and Musa. The allies gathered a 15,000-strong army and pursued Akhmat from the banks of the Volga to the Small Donets. Siberian Tatars and Nogais broke into the Khan's camp at night and killed Akhmat Khan. The victors captured the entire khan's camp, Akhmat's wives and daughters, large trophies, captives and many livestock. It is important for tourism that Anna Akhmatova and her son Lev Nikolaevich Gumilyov considered themselves descendants of this particular Khan Akhmat and great importance attached to their belonging to the Chingizid dynasty.

4. Mangup secrets. What is known and what is unknown about Mangup?

Natural conditions of the Babadag plateau

Mangup-Kale is located on the plateau of the Babadag remnant mountain (baba - father, dağ - mountain, Iranian.). The highest height is 583 m. The mountain is a detached elevation, abruptly ending to the south. On the north side, the mountain has four extended ledges called capes. The westernmost ledge is called Chamny-burun (Turk. çamlı burun, dialectal pronunciation çamnı burun - a cape with pines), the second from the west is Chufut-Cheargan-Burun (Turk. çufut çığarğan burun - “cape of calling the Jews”), the next one is Elli- burun (“Windy Cape”, the cape of worship of the god of the wind - the ancient cult of Achilles) and, finally, the easternmost - Teshkli-burun (Turk. teşikli burun - “cape with a hole”, got its name because of the through grotto formed as a result collapse of an artificial cave called Baraban-Koba). There are ravines between the capes, each of which also has its own name: from west to east - Tabana-dere (“Leather ravine”), Gamam-dere (“Bath ravine”) and Kapu-dere (“Gate ravine”).

All names on Mangup and next to it are Turkic! Not Crimean Tatar, since this territory was never part of the Crimean Khanate. The local Crimean Orthodox Greeks and Goths, Karaites and Tats (strangers) spoke Turkic dialects - this name was practiced for the Muslim population of the Mountainous Crimea until the 18th century. Therefore, it is more correct to designate Turkic toponyms in translation as Turkic, and not Crimean Tatar. In the Crimea, a small number of Iranian toponyms have been preserved, for example, Chatyrdag, possibly from the Scythian-Sarmatian times, possibly from the Khazar ones. The name Mangup is not translated in any way, is not explained in any way, and it is not even clear in what language it was given and when. Several spellings have survived from the 17th-19th centuries: Mangub, Mankup, Manlop, Mantkop, Mankop, Mangotia, Castrongotia, Mangut, Mancopia, etc.The most important leather production is morocco (thin colored leather). It was controlled by Karaite merchants. It was included in the "Surozh goods" - easy to transport and very expensive. Raw materials for morocco - wild goat skins were delivered to Mangup from a vast area. This is normal commercial capitalism, not feudal relations. Tanners produced furs (burduks) in huge quantities, including from large bull skins. Nomads needed these containers for water supplies, and when crossing rivers, the furs were inflated with air.the statement from a recent Moscow film about a certain natural secrecy of Mangup is armchair. All Crimean cave cities are perfectly visible to each other, since ancient times they had a signal system (recesses in the rock monolith for combustible oil), which united all the fortifications and sentinel points of the Kyrk El country from Sudak to Balaklava. Ancient transport system between them is extremely convenient and now for active tourism, has gentle slopes, many springs with tasty water, beautiful observation platforms for relax.

History of the Early Middle Ages

In the III-IV centuries, the vicinity of Mangup, judging by the finds in the burial grounds, was inhabited by Scythian-Sarmatians.

In the 4th-5th centuries, a settlement of Alans and Goths appeared on the plateau, and catacomb burial grounds in the surrounding beams.

What is important? Scythians, Tauro-Scythians, Sarmatians, Goths, Alans are known as mercenaries in the auxiliary troops of the Roman Empire. Mostly cavalry, but also archers. And since the time of Herodotus (5th century BC), this has also been a hired city guard, the police. Crimea, the south of the Russian Plain and the North Caucasus were distinguished by a very favorable climate, high birth rates, minimal infant mortality and a stable, thousand-year overpopulation. In the traditions of the pastoral peoples, there was a high level of training in martial arts and hunting. Mercenaries served FOR MONEY! As - the so-called Roman coin, which was received by a mercenary warrior for a day of service. As - means a professional, and not belonging to a controversial "elusive" nation.The economy of the Crimean Foothills was originally a commodity economy, there was no subsistence economy already in the time of the Scythians and Tauris, since the tribes of the Steppe and the Mountainous Crimea always and continuously exchanged the products of labor. At the time of the Great Migration of Nations, when Goths and other barbarians came to Crimea in large groups and communities, these are not just "wild" from the "Game of Thrones", these are tribes that are involved in the commodity-money relations of the Roman Empire. Warriors from these tribes either served Rome or fought against it. They have friends and relatives all over the world. They understand the benefits!

Already in the early Middle Ages, and with a powerful ancient cultural foundation from modern Sudak to Balaklava, a amazing country 40 castles, Kirk El (40 lands). These are small, but very effective clusters, as they say now, bunches, complexes for processing agricultural and hunting raw materials. NOT FEUDAL. Economic relations are built not on the withdrawal of surplus product, but only on exchange. The rural population grows, the mountain extracts, the population of the towns processes and sells. The main value of Mangup and many other cave cities was morocco made of mountain goat skin, which was tanned and dyed in various bright colors with extracts of sumac and other Crimean plants.wine production in the cave cities also had a commercial character: small centers with 10-12 employees processed the products of 300-500 estates of villagers from the valleys into wine. For bottling, a huge number of amphorae were produced, in which the wine was transported thousands of kilometers.

never use the word "feudalism" in relation to the Crimea. Although the Principality of Theodoro is just an example of a very short and unsuccessful introduction of the Byzantine-type feudal hierarchy among very wealthy and very independent villagers, artisans and merchants, and even more independent military mercenaries. In the second half of the 5th century, the first fortifications were built on Mangup using the technique characteristic of Byzantine fortification. The city is under the cultural, spiritual and economic influence of Tauric Chersonese. Like the entire southwestern Crimea, this is the far northern outskirts of the Byzantine Empire, which at times does not control these lands at all, at times resubordinates them to the Danube province.

The city of Doros, the country of the Goth-Tetraxites Dori and the anti-Khazar uprising led by St. John of Gotha have nothing to do with Mangup, no artifacts have been found. But the theme of the Crimean Gothia was extremely actively and successfully developed by the princes of Theodoro from 1425, as a unifying holy idea. Mangup and Kievan Rus - an unexplored, oddly enough, topic, but meanwhile there is a "Note of the Gothic toparch" about the times of the Kyiv prince Svyatoslav. There is a mention that the holy Prince Vladimir, after being baptized in Tauric Chersonese, brought to Kyiv a huge number of icons, church utensils, priests and pundits. We must assume the artisans. Historians note the amazing "mystery" of the desolation of Mangup in the 9th-10th centuries. Meanwhile, what is needed here is not "clamps", but a good tight seam between events Kievan Rus, which becomes a superpower, follows the imperial path, and the events in the southwestern Crimea, the outskirts of the weakening Byzantine Empire at times.

Mangup and coat of arms Double-headed eagle in the Golden Horde

In the 1220s, the ruler of one of the castles of Crimean Gothia from the Gavras family restored the fortress on Mount Mangup, and named it in honor of the patron saint of the dynasty of St. Theodore Gavras Stratilates (1098) - the fortress of St. Theodore. When first the Seljuk Turks, and then the Mongols of Batu Khan, fell on Taurica, the confederation of 40 lands of Kyrk El was violated. Part of the urban communities from Sudak to Bakhchisaray began to submit to the Karaite dynasty of Chufut-Kale, and the former district of Chersonesos rallied around Mangup, since the impregnable mountain fortress turned out to be a better place for the residence of the ruler of the region than the old Byzantine centers Kherson (on the territory of modern Sevastopol) repeatedly devastated by the Tatars and Sugdeya (modern Sudak).

After the creation of the Golden Horde in the middle of the 13th century, the Byzantine Orthodox enclaves in Taurica: Theodoro, Kherson, Sugdeya, and Bosporus (modern Kerch), which fell under the rule of the North Caucasian princes, received a status similar to that of the Russian principalities. Their rulers paid tribute and received labels in the Horde, using, however, relative internal independence.

Crimea, as part of the Golden Horde, immediately became part of the Nogai ulus, which was not Chingizid, but a Kipchak from the Mangyt clan. With Genghisides, Nogai became related through marriage. But one of the wives of Emir Nogai was Eurosinya Paleolog. Nogai's coins featured a double-headed eagle as early as the 13th century.

On the coins of the Khan of the Golden Horde, Janibek the Good, the coat of arms of the Paleologs was recorded in 1341-1357.

Khan Janibek was born in the Porphyry Palace of Constantinople. His mother, the wife of Khan Uzbek, was from the Paleolog family. Khan Uzbek built a palace for her at the foot of Karadag, where the dolphinarium and biostation are now. Otuz Valley (Kurortnoye and Shchebetovka) via Old Crimea were connected with the entire Russian land part of the Great Silk Road.

But the murder of the sick Dzhanibek in 1357, his son Berdibek combined with the murder of all his brothers. Only the youngest son of Dzhanibek Dmitry Mangupsky survived, sent to the Orthodox relatives by the governor of Mangup.

Crimea lost control of the Golden Horde in 1359, all power passed to the son-in-law of Berdibek, Emir Mamai. However, for the time being, Mamai did not touch the Crimean Mountains, since each of the 40 castles had Alans mercenaries, mostly of North Caucasian origin, and Orthodox, Karaite and Jewish merchants had influential connections in many European and Asian countries.

In 1362, three young Crimean princes from Mangup, Chufut-Kale and Old Crimea went to the Ukrainian lands in Podolia (the current Kirovograd region) to collect tribute on behalf of the Golden Horde and the Genghisides dynasty. The Lithuanian prince Olgerd defeated them in the battle of the Blue Waters (Sinyukha River), captured them, and, pursuing the fleeing detachments, entered the Crimea up to Chersonesus.

XIV - XV century the city was the capital of the late Byzantine principality of Theodoro, who controlled the South-Western Crimea and was under the influence of Byzantium. The city itself was also called Theodoro. It was this era that left a lot of artificial caves, defensive walls, foundations of basilicas and the ruins of the citadel on Cape Teshkli Burun.

The Principality of Theodoro, during the period of maximum success in the wars with the Genoese (1430s), occupied western part Mountain Crimea and a strip of the southern coast from Yamboli (Balaklava) to Aluston (Alushta). In administrative and military terms, the territory of the principality was divided into "turms" (μέρους), of which there were at least 11. The capital of the principality, the city of Mangup, was also called Theodoro in that era. In the XIV century, the southern coast, which the rulers of Theodoro called Parathalassia (Greek Παραθαλασσια - literally "seaside") was conquered by the Genoese. During the Genoese rule, the former lands of the Theodorites on the south coast were called the "Captainship of Gothia".

The ruling house of Theodoro called itself αυθέντου πόλεως Θεοδώρους και παραθαλασσίας (owners (aufent) of the city of Theodoro and Pomerania). The origin is still unclear and disputed: they were from the side branch of the Komnenos and Paleologs or descended from the Armenian family of Gavras. Maria Paleologina, Princess Mangupskaya was the third wife of Stephen III the Great, her aunt Maria Gotha was married to the Trebizond heir to the throne, David the Great Komnenos.

In 1475, during the siege of Mangup, the feodorites, which included a military detachment of three hundred soldiers sent by the Moldavian ruler Stephen III the Great, and the allied cavalry of Mengli Giray, killed the entire Janissary corps that existed at that time in the Ottoman Empire in five months. Subsequently, in 1482, Sultan Bayezid II, dissatisfied with the actions of the siege commander Gedik Ahmed Pasha, ordered his execution in Edirne.

What is known about the rulers of the Principality of Theodoro?

Despotate or reign of THEODORO (MANGUP) (c. 1361/62 - 1475).

This state in Crimean mountains headed the Greek-Armenian clan of Garvas or Gavras - Taronites, who originated from the Empire of Trebizond (expelled from there in the 60s of the XIII century and settled in Chersonese, from where in 1299 they were expelled by the Tatars and moved to Mangup). For Theodoro, access to the sea was cut off by the Genoese colonies. However, later the Theodorites, in alliance with the Crimean Khanate, recaptured Balaklava, seized the coast from the current Inkerman, founded the ports of Kalamita and Avlita, through which they maintained contact with Byzantium. Captured by the Turks in December 1475

Years of government, Ruler, Family ties

until 1361 Dmitry Mangupsky is mentioned in connection with the defeat in the battle of Blue Waters in Podolia. The Grand Duke of Lithuania, Olgerd, then captured Chersonese Tauride, built a fortress on the site of the current northern side of Sevastopol, and probably destroyed the Mangup fortress.

OK. 1361 - c. 1362 Khuitani, the centurion is mentioned as the leader of the restoration of the fortress on Mangup.

2nd floor 14th century Basil

late XIV - early. 15th century Stefan son of Vasily

? - 1434 Alexei I The 2nd son of Stephen (?) from 1425 very actively conquers Pomorie (the coast from Sudak to Balaklava) from the Genoese, builds a temple in honor of St. John of Gotha in Partenit, the Funa fortress above Alushta.

1434 - 1456 Alexei II son of Alexei I - in alliance with the Crimean Tatars successfully destroys the Genoese landing of Carlo Lomellino.

1456-1471 Olubey (Ulubey the Greek), many historians consider him the son of Alexei II, but this is probably only a Turkic nickname for Prince Alexei II. It can be translated as the Grand Duke, or as a lanky, high prince. 1471 - 1475 Isaac (Saik), the son of Olubey, together with Mengli Gir led the resistance to the Turkish troops. It is known that his uncle (Manuil?) and many wealthy townspeople preferred honorable surrender and eventually opened the gates in the outer fortress wall to the Turks.

The Crimean peninsula has not only unique nature, but also is the custodian of many historical monuments of culture and architecture. One of these objects of historical cultural heritage is Mangup or Mangup-Kale - a fortress city located at an altitude of 583 meters above sea level in.

The first settlements in this area appeared around 4-3 thousand BC. e., this is confirmed by the discovered artificial caves in limestone rock. Already in 1 thousand BC. e. here appear the tribes of the Taurians, who give the plateau a name - Mangup, which means "mountain". By the beginning of the 3rd century AD, they were replaced by the Scythian-Sarmatian tribes.

At the beginning of the 5th-6th century, the first fortifications began to appear here, called Doros, soon a monumental basilica appeared here, and the city itself received the status of the center of the Goth diocese on the peninsula. With the establishment of Byzantine domination, the settlement is actively developing and becomes an impregnable fortress city.

In the middle of the 13th century, Mangup-Kale became the capital of the Byzantine Principality of Theodoro, which controlled the entire South-West of Crimea. The city gradually grows, it is decorated with gardens, statues, a coniferous forest was planted. During the 13th and 14th centuries, a three-story fortress appeared in Mangup, which served as the residence of the prince and the stronghold of the city. A well was pierced in the rock, which supplied the entire fortress fresh water.

At the end of the 15th century, the troops of the Ottoman Empire invaded the territory of the peninsula, the attack of the Turks for a long time was held back only by the fortress of Doros, located on the territory of Mangup. After a six-month siege during the exchange of the wounded, the Turks seized the fortress by deception - the city was plundered and destroyed. A few decades later, the Ottomans restored the fortress and populated it with Karaites. Until 1774, Mangup was the center of the administrative-territorial unit of the Ottoman Empire and was part of the province of Kefe - Feodosia.

In the 18th century, after the Crimea came under power Russian Empire Mangup-Kale was practically empty and lost its historical significance.

Photo gallery of Mangup-Kale:

What can be seen?

Mangup-Kale has a picturesque nature, one of the attractions of which is an artificial reservoir, popularly called the Maiden's Lake. During the creation of the lake, the remains of an ancient temple had to be flooded; its altar can be seen during a drought - the top rises above the water level.

Around the lake there are gazebos where you can admire the beauty of the reservoir.

If you go to boat trip, then it is from the reservoir that the view of four rocky ledges comes off, resembling the claws of a predator holding mountain slopes in its paws. Also during the walk you can see Cape Chishma-Boir, where it was found.

Another attraction of the plateau is the Monastery of the Holy Annunciation, built at an altitude of four hundred meters above sea level in the rock.

The shrine was founded in the 5th century AD, and 100 years later it was destroyed during an Ottoman siege. The monastery was restored only in the 20th century by the efforts of the monks themselves and operates in our time. The monks live as they did 1500 years ago - they have no electricity, so nothing distracts them from their prayers.
Prayer rooms and cells are located in the same place where the grottoes were located in the 6th century, in the largest of them a meeting of monks is held.

In the monastery you can see the miraculous icon of the Theotokos "Quick Hearing" and drink water from the holy spring located in one of the grottoes. On the walls are frescoes of the 15th century, which adorn the walls of the temple, unfortunately, some of them could not be restored.

Excursions to the cave city

The real pearl of the plateau is the cave city - the ruins of the ancient city of Mangup on Mount Baba Dag.

It is difficult to get to the ancient city, it was thanks to natural barriers that it remained impregnable for enemies for a long time, moreover, very often the mountain is shrouded in fog. During the ascent, you can see the ancient cemetery of the Karaites with hundreds of tombstones.

In order for the city to remain impregnable, a defensive citadel was built, the total length of the fortifications, including natural rocky borders, was about 7000 meters.

The arch of the central gate, through which guests entered the city, has survived to this day. Unfortunately, the magnificent princely palace, built in 1425, has not survived; the only reminder of it are the remains of fragments of the foundation. Quite well preserved burial cavities for burial of the dead and founding of the South Church.

One of the main occupations of the inhabitants of the medieval city was agriculture, which even today is reminiscent of a cockroach - a large stone recess equipped with special drains, it was in it that berries were crushed.

Also of interest to tourists former tomb, which subsequently served as a position for the shooters and was the only cover for the road to the fortress.

The remains of a small chapel were also preserved, under which there were crypts for the burial of the local nobility.

On the very highest point an Orthodox cross is installed on the southern slope, it is he who is the beginning of the path called the "Iron Door", which leads to the Annunciation Monastery.

Which hotel to stay?

Mangup-Kale is very popular among Crimean tourists, so there is no excess in hotels located near the historical monument.

1. Hotel "Theodoro's Manor", is located in the village of Khodzha-Sala, Bakhchisaray district, at the foot of the cave city.

2. Hotel Mangup-Kale, located on Chelebi street 1, in the village of Khoja-Sala. ;

3. Hotel Homer, located 19.5 km from the plateau on the street. Rubtsov in Balaklava.

4Dakkar Resort Hotel it can be found in Balaklava on the street. Kalinich 13.

Cave city Mangup-Kale

The cave city of Mangup-Kale (more commonly referred to simply as "Mangup") is located near the villages of Zalesnoye and Khadzhi-Sala in the Bakhchisarai region of Crimea.

Rock cliffs of the massif

Southern cliffs of Baba-Dag from the side of the Adym-Chokrakskaya valley

The trail climbs up a steep slope

The rocks are getting closer

Several tens of millions of years ago, the Mangup plateau, as a result of tectonic and erosional processes, separated from the massif included in the Inner Ridge, the vast through Khodja-Salin valley, and a remnant composed of limestone was formed, rising 584 meters above sea level.

grottoes blacken in the cliffs

and climb up the rocky path again. Below is the Adym-Chokrakskaya valley

/>

the tops of the mountains are visible, a cave monastery is hidden behind the near one, the edge of Balaklava is visible on the horizon

Mangup-Kale is located on the plateau of the Baba-Dag remnant mountain with an area of ​​about 90 hectares, the name of which in Turkic means "Father Mountain". Mount Baba-Dag, whose height reaches 583 meters, is a detached massif abruptly ending to the south, towering 250-300 meters above the valleys of Ai-Todorskaya, Dzhan-Dere and Karalezskaya. On three sides, the plateau is bounded by vertical cliffs, reaching a height of 70 meters on the western side. On the north side, the mountain has four extended ledges called capes.

and now the path leads to one of the cave monasteries of Mangup - the South

and descent along stone steps cut down in the Middle Ages

in the grottoes one can see monks' cells, frescoes, bells, tombstones

from the monastery terrace offers a magical view of the Adym-Chokrakskaya valley and the mountains lying behind it

The northern slope is cut by three deep gorges. The four capes formed by these gorges give Mangup a resemblance to the four fingers of a giant hand or paw.
These capes are extended to the north. Their medieval names (or rather, pre-Tatar ones) are unknown. The eastern cape is called Teshkli-Burun (Leaky Cape), it is all indented with caves; next to the west is Elli, or Elli-Burun (Windy, according to another assumption, the Hellenic Cape, that is, Greek); then Chufut-Choargan Burun (Cape of the call of the Jews) (The origin of the latter is mysterious: it may be associated with the settlement here in the 18th century of the Karaites.) and, finally, Chamny-Burun (Pine Cape).

But we go down again, go along the path under the cliffs, again in some places there are cave structures and grottoes

Soon the trail leads to a rocky crevice, in which a ladder is equipped to climb the Baba Daga plateau.

Climbing onto the plateau, let's take a look at the wonderful picture of the Crimean Mountains that stretches out in front of us.

The Turkish traveler Evliya Celebi, who traveled half the world, wrote in 1661: “This rock spreads out like a flat plain, overgrown with grass and tulips, and gaping abysses a thousand arshins deep around it - real abysses of hell! .. Allah created this rock so that it became a fortress. If you shout in those valleys that stretch at the base of the cliffs, the mountain hums for half an hour, like thunder, and a person is seized with fear and surprise.

“What is Mangup? My despair. Get out of it quickly, because there is nothing more annoying than unsatisfied curiosity. But run, don't run, and everyone who has visited Mangup at least once is irresistibly attracted there again.

Here traces of the former inhabitants begin to be found - traces of walls, carved caves, foundations of buildings, grave pits, cut down on the edge of a cliff

surprises with the correct geometric shape of clearings

“Nothing in any part of Europe surpasses the terrifying majesty of this place!” the English traveler spoke enthusiastically. XVIII century Edward Clark. Mangup-Kale, the most outstanding monument of all “cave cities”, located on the plateau of the Mangup mountain of the same name, at an altitude of about 600 m above sea level, has left similar impressions for travelers for more than a century.

you can go down the stone steps into one of the caves, imagining yourself as a Theodorite or a Karaite)))

But, perhaps, the most peculiar observer of the Mangup distances was the commander of the German army, General Manstein, who during the Second World War, during the storming of Sevastopol, on the Mangup plateau, became an observation post. Subsequently, he recalled: “An unforgettable sight opened before us. It was the only case of its kind in modern warfare when an army commander saw the entire battlefield in front of him. But long before Manstein, this advantage of Mangup was appreciated by the Byzantine commanders, who watched the movements of the barbarian tribes from the plateau.
because of the rare trees, some kind of building begins to peep through

but first on the way again there are rams carved in stone

tombs

Again the steps invite you into the mysterious darkness of the monastery

several cave rooms are hidden below

The mysterious building is gradually approaching

The forest grew only at the very beginning of the 20th century, before that it was bare on the hill fort and on the slopes. There is no lifting material, which is not surprising: in ancient times this road was hardly used, it was normal, but long, winding, from the side of Almalyk dere (Apple ravine); but it is 7 km long.

remnants of the old life

On the plateau there is a grotto with a spring. None of the other “cave cities” has a second such miracle. The abundance of water on an isolated plateau about 600 m above sea level is due to the accumulation of water in the fractured limestone stratum, which occurs due to precipitation and condensation of atmospheric moisture.
The majestic Mangup is beautiful in all seasons - in spring, when the trees are in bloom, and the slopes are covered with young grass and fragrant wildflowers; in autumn, when the colorful colors of the deciduous forest, combined with the green of the needles, form a magnificent color scheme. At the end of summer and fine days of golden autumn, Mangup attracts not only lovers of nature, antiquity, but also pickers of wild fruits and berries, nuts and mushrooms. Mangup is also beautiful in winter, when its top and slopes are covered with snow.

and here they are - captivating ruins. These are the remains of the citadel of the Mangup princes.

under the walls you can see the most famous attraction of the Mangup citadel - a toilet

and again mysterious ruins hang overhead

window openings and arches with patterns

Under the eastern cliffs of Cape Teshkli-Burun leads to the city ancient road. Rising higher and higher, the road leads to the foot of the rocky ledge of the cape and, having rounded it, to the main fortress gate.

And if you turn off the road to the left at the place where it turns north along Cape Teshkli-Burun, and go up to the eastern foot of the plateau, then along the cliff to the west, a staircase carved into the rock begins in one of the natural caves. It leads to the upper grotto, from which you can get into cave church. The remains of frescoes of the 14th-15th centuries have been preserved on its walls. Opposite the church there are cave cells for monks and utility rooms of the monastery.

defensive wall

the thickness of the adjoining defensive wall is cut through by the gate arch

along the top of the wall

passing through the gate and wandering along the wall, we get to the tip of Cape Teshkli

there are traces of various religious and economic structures

the edge of the plateau is pitted with caves

from the edge of the cape we continue to admire dizzying panoramas

On the opposite side you can see the already familiar Chardaklyk ridge

moving along the cliff again we meet caves carved in stone

soon you can go down to the Drum-koba caves

lovely dungeon captives

The cave complex on the edge of Teshkli-Burun is called Drum-koba - there is a column there, hollow inside, knocking on which you will hear a sound reminiscent of the sound of a drum.
from here you can see the Jan-Dere beam

now you can see the next Cape Elli-Burun, where we will go

On the southern slope of the Mangup plateau, “under” it is located the male cave monastery of the Annunciation. The monastery arose at the turn of the XIV-XV centuries and used to be called the South. The monastery is located outside the defensive walls, which suggests that it was created in peacetime, when there was nothing to be afraid of. The abode is located in hard to reach place, the passage there was hidden. Even now it is not very noticeable, and not very light.

The total length of the fortifications of Mangup-Kale is 1.5 kilometers, the length of the defensive contour (with natural barriers - rocky cliffs from 20 to 70 meters) - 6.6 kilometers. Numerous springs are located on the territory of the fortress.

Mangup researchers do not have a common opinion about the time of its occurrence. Some believe that the city was built in the VI century and at the same time became the center of southwestern Taurica, its main fortress. Others attribute its occurrence to the X-XI centuries and connect this event with the destruction of the fortifications by the Khazars.
Recent excavations have shown that already in the first centuries of our era, there was a settlement on the Mangup plateau in the area of ​​Cape Chufut-Cheargan-Burun.

follow the road along the remains of the defensive wall

So back in the Bronze Age, the first inhabitants came to Mangup, there were also Tauris.
According to one version, on the Baba Dag plateau there was a large city of the Taurians, a people about whom almost nothing is known at the moment. Since direct evidence of the connection of the Tauri with Mangup on
does not exist at the moment, very often the wild imagination of those who have visited Mangup draws “something of their own”. Such creations of the mind include, for example, talk about the temple of fire on the Leaky Cape (the foundation of the Greek basilica), pagan sacrifices on the edge of the Leaky Cape (casemates), etc.
another look at Cape Teshkli-burun

Since the 3rd century AD, the population of the mountain (then not yet a fortress) has been increasing. The inhabitants were the Goths, who came to the Black Sea region at that particular time. Having made war with the Roman Empire, the Goths gradually settled down on the ground, cultivated, began to sincerely consider themselves Greeks, and already at the end of the 4th century they were hiding on Mangup from the nomadic Huns. Rome at that time could do almost nothing to help the Crimean Goths, even if it wanted to.

In the 5th-6th centuries, a small fortress arose on Cape Teshkli-Burun. In the 11th century, the construction of a large city began, which eventually occupied almost the entire territory of the plateau.
Early Mangup (V-VI centuries AD) occupied mainly the territory of the upper city, located on Cape Teshkli-Burun. Access to it is currently blocked by the ruins of the citadel. The city then expanded, and the remaining three western capes entered the territory of the lower city. Later, a part of the Kozhevenny ravine was also populated. The upper reaches of the Tabana-Dere turned into a handicraft area. Until the end of the city’s existence, there was a wasteland on Cape Pine, a kind of reserve territory, although all its clefts were closed with walls. Wastelands located outside the defensive walls of the Chufut-Choargan and Chamna capes were also used at the moment of danger: here the inhabitants of the villages located near Mangup, along with their livestock and movable property, hid from enemies. In peacetime, domestic animals probably grazed on these wastelands.

cave structures on the plateau

An inscription found recently in the ruins of the Great Basilica tells about the early period of the history of Mangup Mountain. This find has not yet been sufficiently evaluated. There are 23 lines on the marble slab, in which a certain person is honored, who, when the country suffered a drought, passed through enemy lands and obtained bread for fellow citizens. He also organized an embassy with his own money to the governors of Moesia, Sabinus and Elian, and obtained from them the fulfillment of most of the requests. Apparently, it was again about bread, since it is said below that the citizen had to buy it with his own money. Just when he was with the governors, war broke out with the Sarmatians, and the citizen told the Romans everything he knew about their plans. Returning from the Romans, he went to the barbarian Uabius and to the “greatest kings of Aorsia”, but apparently these were barbarians allied with Rome. The decree dates back to the 1st century AD, so the “war with the Sarmatians” is identified with the unrest of 62. It is believed that the stone was brought to Mangup from some kind of policy, but which one, when and why? The language seems to fit Olbia (in Chersonesos they spoke a different dialect), but what is the point of dragging a slab to put it in the basilica, so from afar? The publishers of the inscription (and it was analyzed twice) did not give an answer. There are at least two options: either the inscription still comes from Chersonesus, and then it is clear that during the construction of the basilica on Mangup in the 6th century, part of the building material was delivered from there, or the inscription was placed at the very beginning on Mangup. One can only fantasize what relation Mangup had to these events. Maybe the “greatest kings of Aorsia”, in particular, Uabius, lived on Mangup, and wished to have a copy of the honorary decree in honor of the citizen of Olbia, with whom they had friendly relations? Or was this man himself not from Olbia at all, but from Mangup? But then it will be necessary to revise the entire early history of Mangup and give an answer why there are no more impressive remnants of this time. However, the idea that Mangup was thoroughly settled no earlier than the 6th century, which is actively carried out today in numerous works, should probably be discarded. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that finds of late antique dishes are frequent on the settlement, and a coin of Emperor Theodosius I (379-395) was also found, from the same series, which, obviously, was minted either in Chersonese itself, or for him in Constantinople. This suggests that since the 4th century, at least on Mangup, people have been living who are included in the orbit of economic ties with Chersonesus. Actually, Justinian would not have built a basilica and walls on a completely uninhabited place.

Mangup's plan

traces of a medieval temple

Emperor Justinian (517-565) wanted and was able to revive the former power of the Roman Empire. For the allied Goths, a fortress is being built on Mangup. Apparently, this happened closer to 565, since Mangup is not mentioned in the architectural encyclopedia “On Buildings”, written around 550. The fortress was called “Dori” (the name Mangup appeared much later). The Goths were supposed to cover Kherson, the main Byzantine city of the Crimea, from the north, and participate in its economic life.

Gamam-Dere ravine

But since the end of the 7th century, the Empire has been weakening. Kherson only formally remains within its borders. However, the Greek Goths in the “country of Dory” are loyal to Kherson, because by working with him, they can earn a lot of money. This period can be considered the time of existence in the Crimea of ​​a semi-independent state with a center in Kherson and with such fortresses on the periphery as Dori.

remains of a defensive wall

The invasion of the Khazars in 8 in briefly interrupted the natural course of life. Did the Khazars occupy Mangup? On the one hand, the uprising against them in 787 was caused precisely by the fact that they stormed Doros, which they see as Mangup. On the other hand, A. Herzen writes that in 840 the Khazars repaired the walls of Mangup, as if it were their fortress (in this case, the researcher refers to the data of his excavations and written sources). Thus, the Khazars could first capture Mangup, then put a submissive feudal lord there. But, when the feudal lord became recalcitrant, use force against him. According to some, it was from the Khazar language that the very word “Mangup” came from, which, competing with other names, has become the only name of this place since Turkish times.

northern cave monastery

Around the 10th and 11th centuries, life in Dori is believed to come to a sudden halt. The reasons for this are completely mysterious, they even say that an earthquake is to blame. The reason could be civil wars within the Kherson quasi-state. It is known that during the reign of Emperor Theophilus, Constantinople restores its power over Cherson. It was not without violence. On the other hand, it can be assumed that the entry of Kherson into the orbit of the Roman Empire stabilized the situation, and the fortress was no longer needed. People preferred to live at the foot of Mangup. The walls of the Justinian time were slowly decaying. At the same time, back in the 70s, archaeologists did not see this "dark" period of Mangup and, when dating their finds, they freely placed them in the 11-13 centuries. Obviously, over the past 20 years, the dating scale for ceramics has changed dramatically, which immediately caused a specific gap in the history of Mangup. The scale may change more than once, which means that the idea of ​​the history of Mangup will also change radically. Where there are no written sources, one has to rely on archeology, which is only at first glance very objective.

trail and grotto near the spring

A new twist brings the year 1204, when the crusaders capture Constantinople. For the Greek world, this was a signal for the consolidation of forces. The Greeks who lived in the mountainous areas (we have already said what kind of “Greeks” they were) gather in a bunch and found the Principality of Theodoro, the capital of which was the abandoned Mangup, which its inhabitants then called “Mangup”, then “Theodoro” . When this happened, it is not known exactly, but long before the “Khan of Manlop” Dmitry was first mentioned in connection with the events of 1363 (together with the rulers of Solkhat and Kyrk-Or, he opposed the Lithuanian prince Olgerd).

ruins of the palace of the princes Theodoro

Eski-Kermen was devastated by Nogai and never revived. Probably, this provoked the transfer of all life to Mangup, along with the functions of the capital. The fact is that in 1299 Nogai was either unable to take Mangup, or there was nothing to “take” there. This means that by that time the city was already well fortified. In Mangup there is an inscription dated 1362 about the construction of the Poika, in which they see the citadel of Theodoro.
Jewish quarter ruins

The Principality of Theodoro did not perish even in 1399, when the hordes of Khan Edigey again marched along this region with fire and sword, destroyed and burned many cities and villages, including Chersonese.
Basilica of Saints Constantine and Helena

captiontext="Mangup" />

True, the Mangup principality lost part of the territory on which the Tatars settled. And the Genoese seized some coastal possessions, including the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe current Balaklava, where they built the Cembalo fortress. Nevertheless, the principality retained its independence and remained quite strong for a long time.

defensive tower with carved stones built into the masonry

The remains of defensive structures that have come down to us belong to a later time - to the XIV-XV centuries. Walls with towers and semi-towers encircled the entire plateau from the north, west and partly from the south. They were not only where the cliff reached several tens of meters.

The inscriptions on the stones associated with the construction of the fortress walls, as well as written sources, indicate that in the 13th-15th centuries the city was called Theodoro. In Russian and Western European sources, he is called Mangup. It is believed that since the 15th century, the princes from the Armenian family of Gavras, prominent Byzantine figures who ruled in Trebizond, owned the city. The Genoese called them "lords of Theodoro", the Russians - Mangup princes, and the principality - Mangup. The territory occupied by the principality was often called "Gothia" in Western European documents.

glade on the plateau

The time of the emergence of the principality has not been precisely established, but, of course, it existed before the Tatar invasion and was one of the largest in the southwestern Crimea.

on the outskirts of Pine Cape - Chamnu-Burun, from where stunning views open in all directions

The medieval Principality of Theodoro was located on a vast territory - in addition to cities and castles that arose on the tops of neighboring "table" mountains, it also belonged to the southern coast of Crimea.
internal defensive wall

Its borders in the northeast reached the Kacha River, in the west - to the lands of Chersonesos, and in the south, before the advent of the Genoese, the principality, apparently, belonged to the entire coast from Alushta to Balaklava.

Nature itself took care of the impregnability of the mountain on which the city is located. The southern slope is steep, the northern one is difficult to access, you can climb the plateau along ravines, blocked by powerful walls with towers.

The population of the principality consisted of the cursed descendants of the Taurians, Scythians, Sarmatians, Alans; there were also Greeks and Karaites, Armenians and Tatars who converted to Christianity.
Thabana-Dere ravine and Karaite cemetery

They were mainly engaged in field cultivation, horticulture, horticulture, viticulture and winemaking, cattle breeding. Inhabitants coastal areas- fishing, townspeople - handicraft production: pottery, leather and others.

Khoji Sala - view of the Mangup capes

lake with a flooded temple

modern road on the site of a defensive wall in the valley

For a long time it was believed that the Principality of Theodoro did not know its coin. But in 1998, the Moscow numismatist A. Korshenko showed that the category of extremely rare coins found only on Mangup, most likely, is the currency of this principality. You will not find the names of the princes Theodoro on these coins - they imitate the Greek ones, but a numismatist is a numismatist to understand where he is being fooled.

In the 15th century, the city and the principality flourished. Written sources mention the connections of the principality with Moscow, Wallachia (Moldavia). It was a political force that was considered not only by the Genoese, but also by the Tatars. The Principality collaborates with the uluses of the Horde, then with the Crimean Khanate of the Gireys, and fights with the Genoese.

The history of the Mangup rulers has not been studied enough. The first of the most famous princes was Alexei, who called himself "lord and master of Theodoro and Pomorie." He ruled until 1434. Under him, intensive fortification, palace and church construction was carried out. Foreign trade grew, they built their own port near the mouth of the Chernaya River, which flows into the Northern Bay of Sevastopol. In 1427, the fortress of Kalamita was rebuilt to protect it. Soon the Kalamitsky port became the main one in the southwestern Crimea. This severely hit the commercial interests of the Genoese and ended in an armed clash.

The energetic prince Alexei, who entered into an open struggle with the Italians, was supported by Khan Hadji Giray, who, however, sought to extract his political benefits.

In 1433, Alexei presented his claims to the consul of Kafa, Batista de Faranri, and, without waiting for an answer, sent his scouts to the fortress under the guise of merchants, and then troops. Local fishermen, dissatisfied with the order established by the Genoese, supported the Mangup troops. The soldiers of the Genoese garrison fled to Kafa (Feodosia). The fortress passed into the possession of the Mangup principality.

The actions of Prince Alexei caused a commotion in Genoa. In order to restore their prestige and return the lost fortress, the Italians sent a squadron of twenty galleys and six thousand selected soldiers under the command of Charles Lomellino to the shores of Taurica.

In June 1434, the squadron appeared at Cembalo. After a short siege, the Genoese broke into the fortress, exterminated its defenders and many citizens. The son of Prince Alexei and his entourage, who were taken prisoner, were shackled and sent to Genoa. Kalamita was burned.

After the Genoese went to Kafa by land and by sea, everywhere mending robbery. Lomellino went to Solkhat (Old Crimea), deciding to teach the Tatars a lesson, but was utterly defeated by Hadji Giray and fled to Kafa. The Genoese asked the Tatars for peace, which was signed in Solkhat.

Shortly after these events, Alexei died, and the principality was ruled by his sons - Alexei, to whom the Genoese returned their freedom, Olubey and Isaac (in Russian sources - Isaiko).
Calamita was restored, trade flourished, successfully competing with the Italians. For almost four decades, their policy remained unchanged.
After the death of Alexei the Younger, judging by the Tatar sources, his son Olubey, or Ulubey (“big prince”) reigned. It was a Tatar nickname. Before 1475 all the princes of Theodoro professed Christianity and bore Orthodox names. The Orthodox name of Olubey has not come down to us. Apparently, under him, there was a rapprochement between Mangup and the Tatars.

In 1471 Olubey died and his brother Isaac became the ruler of Theodoro (according to the Genoese documents - Saik, in Russian - Isaiko). Under him, the Genoese seek an alliance with Mangup, which was undoubtedly connected with the Turkish threat. Isaac visited Kafu, where he made an alliance with the Genoese (Italians).

The Principality of Theodoro during this period was of great political importance in the Northern Black Sea region. The rulers not only reckoned with the Mangup princes, but also sought to intermarry neighboring countries. Isaac gave his daughter in marriage to Stephen III, the sovereign of Wallachia. Moscow Grand Duke Ivan III intended to marry his son to another daughter of Isaac. Preliminary negotiations were conducted by the Russian ambassador N.V. Beklemishev, boyar A.I. Starkov was supposed to visit Mangup, give gifts to Isaac, start negotiations on matchmaking.

However, in the spring of 1475, Isaac died, and one of Olubey's sons apparently seized power.

The eldest son of Isaac Alexander at that time was visiting his sister in Moldova. Upon learning of the death of his father, he returned to the Crimea with a detachment of Vlachs (Moldovans) of 300 people, which Stephen III gave him to help. Alexander landed in Laspi Bay and, having arrived in Mangup, ascended the throne.

Everything ended for the Greeks at the end of May 1475, when the Turks landed on the South Coast.
Turkish troops landed at Kafa, and she fell. Following her, other Genoese colonies in the Crimea were captured.

The Turkish army approached Mangup in July 1475. The Moldavians came to the aid of Mangup, the Hungarians were preparing a detachment, the Russian prince Ivan III was going to help - if not with troops, then by intimidation - to marry his son to the Theodorite princess, and thereby intimidate the Turks. The ambassador of the Moscow prince A. Starkov gathered for a visit to Mangup. But apparently he didn't.

The siege lasted for almost six months, the enemy stormed the fortress five times, but could not take it. Only in December, either hunger or military cunning of the enemy forced the defenders of Mangup to lay down their arms.

But the truth is, even when the Turks broke through the outer wall, the citadel still continued to resist, and the defenders even set up a forge right in the palace, where weapons were made.

The conquest of Mangup is told by a Turkish source, recently found and published, created in 1476. The essay is brilliantly written: “The sails filled with air. With the permission of Allah, they set off. The surface of the sea was flooded with the light of the rays of Islam. 70,000 Sunni conquerors day and night, night and day, moved across the sea. One day they entered the port of Kefe.” Kafa surrendered herself, but Mangup did not want to submit. However, the ruler of Mangup had already left to meet the conquerors in order to surrender, and his opponent shut himself up in the fortress and decided to give battle. The king from the camp of the Turks begged to surrender the fortress, the Theodorites in response threatened to expel his relatives who remained there from Mangup. Ahmed Pasha realized that the fortress could not be taken by storm. He left few men behind for the siege. The defenders, seeing that the main forces were retreating, made a sortie, but the forces of the remaining siege garrison were enough to break through the now unlocked gates and occupy the fortress. In addition to this source, Chelebi reports that the Turks went to the fortress seven times, laying down several thousand people, and the commander-in-chief was removed from his post because he killed so many soldiers.

The Turks plundered the city, burned or destroyed most of the buildings, and took many residents, including members of the prince's family, into captivity. Alexander was executed.

Only his young son survived, who later became the ancestor of a noble, but not influential family in Turkey.

The Ottomans rebuilt the fortress, which during their reign was called Mangup-Kale - the fortress of Mangup. Until 1774, Mangup was the center of a kadylyk (the smallest administrative-territorial unit of the Ottoman state), which was part of an eyalet (province) with a center in Kef (Feodosia).

The defensive walls now served the new masters; until the 18th century here was a Turkish garrison. The Turks added the word kale to the name of the city (Mangup-Kale means “Mangup fortress”).

Having captured Mangup in December 1475, the Turks at the very beginning of the 16th century turned it into a strong fortress, and left it only in 1774. True, after a great fire in 1592, the Mangup fortress fell into decay and was no longer restored to its former grandeur. It is believed that a garrison of Christian soldiers lived here, who fought in the army of the Crimean Khan, making up a special infantry regiment armed with firearms. True, in Gaivoronsky's article there are no arguments that the soldiers lived precisely on Mangup, but for some reason the author believes in this. In 1666, the Turkish traveler Celebi sees “no buildings here, except for a mosque with a stone dome, rebuilt from a temple covered with tiles, as well as a well with a roof”, the castle itself does not count. In the castle near Celebi, weapons and ammunition were stored. Celebi found the fortress always closed, the commandant had the keys, and not a single person inside the citadel. There were people outside of it; along with the Turkish soldiers on Mangup lived the Greeks (for whom the old church worked), and the Karaite Jews, the descendants of the Khazars. When Russia seized the Crimea, Mangup became empty (the Karaites were allowed to go wherever they wanted, which was previously forbidden to them, and they dispersed throughout the empire, and the Greeks were resettled in the region of Azov).

Life in the city gradually faded away.

When the Turks, having suffered a defeat in the war with Russia in 1774, left the peninsula, the Tatars took possession of the fortress for a short time. After the annexation of Crimea to Russia (1783), Mangup left its last inhabitants - the community of Karaites. In the Tabana-Dere ravine, the remains of a Karaite cemetery have been preserved.

So ceased to exist big medieval city Mangup.

On the maps of Crimea in the 17th-early 19th centuries. among the few Crimean cities Mangup is still listed.

And already at the beginning of the 19th century, the enthusiastic traveler exclaimed - "get out of here, because there is nothing worse than unsatisfied curiosity." Indeed, there was no longer anyone who remembered the history of the city.

The main legend of Mangup is the Mangup boy. According to legend, during the construction of the city or during its defense, a young man died - the son of the ruler of Mangup. Now, according to tradition, he wanders around the surroundings and ruins, cries in the distance and takes revenge on strangers for his death - therefore, it is impossible to walk along the plateau at night. At the beginning of the trail leading from the village of Khadzhi-Sala to the plateau, you can see the relief of the same boy, made in the 90s of the twentieth century.

When writing, Internet resources were used.

You can also read on the site Cave Towns of Crimea the cave city of Mangup-Kale and the site

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————–

Acquainted with numerous natural and historical monuments Crimea is worth choosing best places to replenish their forces. And the very middle of the southern coast of Crimea, coastal Alupka, is the best suited for this purpose. I invite you to stop