Cave towns of Crimea Bakhchisarai. All the secrets and mysteries of the cave cities of the Crimean peninsula. Chelter-Marmara cave monastery

One of the most ancient and little-studied sights of Crimea. Most of The cave cities of the peninsula are located in the Bakhchisarai region, starting from the village of Skalistoye, towards Sevastopol. The founding of cities took place at the decline of the Roman Empire and the heyday of the Byzantine Empire. The colonization of Crimea began in the 7th century BC by the ancient Greeks, immigrants from the city of Miletus. One of the first settlements was the city of Kerch (Pantikapeya).

Next, along east coast Crimea began to form small settlements along the southern and West Bank. Gradually, the cities grew and grew rich, which led to increased confrontation between the nomadic tribes and the Greeks. attacks on Greek cities, most often passed through the area of ​​\u200b\u200bpresent Bakhchisarai, which is why, starting from the 3rd century AD, in the Bakhchisarai region, small guard posts begin to appear, which over the centuries began to grow into large settlements, powerful fortresses and good fortifications.

Taking into account highlands central Crimea and highly malleable mountain material, fortresses were mainly built on hills, and houses were carved in stone. There is also an opinion that the Greeks did not cut out most of the caves, but occupied earlier caves made over several thousand years by primitive people. The proof of this version was the discovery of the Kiik-Koba cave, at the beginning of the 20th century, in the vicinity of Simferopol. In Crimea, there are over 20 cave cities that are known today. Eight are in relatively good condition.

Former capital kingdom of Theodoro, in the Crimea. The kingdom of Theodoro was formed in 1140 and lasted until 1475. The first settlements on Mangup-Kale appeared 4 - thousand years ago, as evidenced by archaeological excavations in these places. First large settlement appeared on Mangup-Kale in the 6th century AD, but it flourished in the 13th-15th centuries. It is the ruins of this period that can be seen today. Mangup-Kale is located near the village of Khoja-Sala, in the Bakhchisarai region. The cost of visiting the museum open sky 100 rub. V summer time, winter free. .

Chufut - Calais

Chufut-Kale is the most famous cave city of Crimea. The popularity of this place is directly related to the geographical proximity to Bakhchisaray and a large number of attractions near it. Perhaps the most famous: the Khan's Palace and the Assumption cave monastery.

Until the beginning of the 15th century, Chufut-Kale was the capital of the Crimean Khanate, but with the advent of the city of Bakhchisaray, the value of Chufut-Kale was rapidly declining, and by the beginning of the 19th century, the city was practically empty. But until the beginning of the 20th century, people still lived in the city, and therefore Chufut-Kale was better preserved than all the cave cities of Crimea. Today Chufut-Kale works as a museum and is located at a distance of 2.8 km from Bakhchisarai. More about .

Tepe - Kermen

A visit to Tepe-Kermen is very often combined with a visit to Chufut-Kale. If you leave Chufut-Kale, towards the eastern gate, then along the path after a few kilometers you can get to Tepe-Kermen.
Tepe-Kermen was founded in the 4th-5th centuries as an advanced post of the Chufut-Kale fortress, but by the 6th century, it had turned into a relatively small town central Crimea. Tepe - Kermen began to grow with stone fortifications, and fertile valleys and an abundance of sun brought large harvests of grapes. Quite quickly, the city became one of the key subsidiary farms of Chufut-Kale. The heyday of the city fell on the 11th-13th century. The population of the city has increased significantly, and the geography of trade has already reached the size of the Crimea. More about .

Eski - Kermen

Closes the list of the largest and most preserved cave cities of Crimea - Eski - Kermen. The city is located near the village of Zalesnoye, in the Bakhchisaray district. Cave houses and the remains of a cave temple are well preserved on the territory of the city. A visit to Eski-Kermen is best done in the summer. Unlike the cave cities described above, the road to Eski-Kermen is strongly washed out from autumn to spring and walking along it is rather difficult. More about .

Kachi - Kalyon

Kachi-Kalyon today is better known not as a cave city, but as a cave monastery. And there are several reasons for this: firstly, the cave monastery of Kachi-Kalyon was abandoned much later than most of the monasteries in cave cities, and secondly, it was the cave monastery of Kachi-Kalyon, one of the best preserved in its original form. Kachi-Kalyon, like almost all the cave cities of Crimea, was founded in the time of Byzantium, but life in it stopped a little later. More about .

Cave city Bakla

The cave city of Bakla is located near Simferopol, in the village of Postal. The city of Bakla, unlike other cave cities, was built and settled in tiers. The city, today, is poorly preserved, but still two tiers are quite clearly visible and you can still see the preserved caves and find the remains of ancient buildings and defensive structures. More about .

Syuyren fortress

Kalamita Fortress

Kalamita Fortress is located in the suburbs of Sevastopol, in the city of Inkerman. The fortress was built several decades before the invasion of the Golden Horde and stood for a relatively short time. But the caves of this fortress, today are its main wealth.
Under the walls of the fortress there is a cave monastery, founded in 92 AD by the 4th Pope, a disciple of the Apostle Peter, St. Clement. The monastery is functioning today and receives pilgrims and guests of the peninsula. More about and about.

Today, the cave cities of Crimea, again become one of the most visited sights of the Crimea and this is facilitated by the development in the Crimea, hiking and cycling. More and more more people are interested in the history of Crimea and strive not only to swim in the warm Black Sea, but also to learn about the life of our ancestors, to walk along mountain paths and visit as many different places as possible.

South-West of Crimea, Bakhchisaray district, is filled with cave cities. There are many theories on the origin of the cave cities of Crimea. There is an assumption that in the period from the 5th to the 6th centuries, local residents began to build such dwellings in order to protect themselves from nomads encroaching on their territory. The interest of the Byzantine Empire in strengthening mountainous areas Tauriki.

The relief of the Crimea made it possible to erect buildings using limestone rocks. Structures built over the caves: defensive fortresses, churches, utility buildings, were destroyed under the influence of time and natural forces, and the cave premises have been preserved to this day. What cave cities of Crimea have survived to this day?

Mangup-Kale - an impregnable fortress

The top of the plateau, on which Mangup is located, is located at an altitude of 584 meters and 20 km from Bakhchisaray. Surrounded by sheer cliffs up to 70 m, Mangup was a difficult target for conquest. The original name of the city is Doros, then Theodoro. Few reminders remain of the primary defensive structures of the 6th century. The further history of the fortress is connected with the Khazar Khaganate and has many dark spots.
Approximately 5 years Ottoman Empire conquered the impregnable Theodoro. During its conquest by the Turks, the city was destroyed and what today's tourists see are the buildings of the same Turks, erected already in the 15th century.

Along the old eroded path of the western ravine, which goes around the protruding Teshkli-Burun cape, there are caves, the main purpose of which was to review the roads approaching Mangup. At the eastern side of Teshkli-Burun, a citadel has been preserved, which was built on the site where a cemetery and a church were located in the 10th century. The graves were made in the rock, this is evidenced by the stones that have preserved the outlines of the church and the crypt.

One of the remarkable cave temples of Mangup-Kale is located above main road leading to the east gate. A secret exit led through the rocks to the road. The dwellings of the monks were also located in the caves. The surviving elements of the decorations of the church are unique, filled with Christian significance.

A plate with the name of Justian I was found in one of the tombs of the temple dedicated to Saints Constantine and Elena, who is considered the most ancient building Mangup Kale.

You can get to Mangup-Kale from Bakhchisarai, by regular bus Bakhchisaray-Zalesnoye, stop at the settlement of Khodja-Sala. There are tourist signs for making hiking. The tour desks offer interesting hikes from 3 to 6 days in the outskirts of Bakhchisarai, the longest hike is the "7 Cave Cities". It is better to travel in spring or autumn, when the sun's rays are not as aggressive as in summer.

City of Crimean Jews Chufut-Kale

City Crimean Jews, Karaites, Chufut-Kale, in scope takes the second place after Mangup. At first, the city was ruled by the Byzantines, then the Crimean Khan and, finally, the Karaites. They built Chufut-Kale soundly, and historical objects that testify to their culture have survived to this day. But the fortress itself is more like ruins.

In Chufut-Kale it is worth seeing:

• three defensive walls with towers, gates;
• mausoleum of the daughter of the Golden Horde Khan;
• Karaite kenas (one of them has a museum and a cafe);
• siege well;
• the estate of the historian Abraham Firkovich
• Assumption Monastery with a holy spring - very close to the cave city.

Chufut-Kale is located at a distance of 2.5 km on the east side of Bakhchisaray, you can walk, or you can get there by transport following Staroselye. After leaving at the final stop, you should walk almost 1 km to the monastery, and there is the "air" city.

This name appeared because of the buildings, similar to eagles' nests, as if stuck on a sheer cliff, located on a plateau of a mountain spur, and towering over the valleys. Man took advantage of what nature created by building over the caves fortifications.

The caves of Chufut-Kale keep an energy secret, during the day there the traveler feels an inexplicable surge of strength, and at night - anxiety, fear.

Eski-Kermen - the third cave city where people lived

The Tatars call him old fortress". The residential city itself occupied 10 hectares. The first floors of the houses, cut into the rock, were used for household needs, the second floors were built on for living quarters.
From Bakhchisaray to Eski-Kermen 14 km and 5 km from Mangup-Kale. Ending station transport can be in the village of Ternovka, Red Poppy or Zalesnoe. Then you need to walk (or drive by car) for almost 6 km, the road is unpaved, but there are signs. Perhaps due to this location, the local caves and structures are wonderfully preserved.

All attractions are located along the perimeter of the mountain plateau, with the proximity of dizzying cliffs:

• ancient city;
• temple of the three horsemen;
• siege well.

The Eski-Kermen rock massif contains the largest number of caves carved into the rocks (more than 300).

Ridge of cave places in Crimea

Mangup-Kale, Chufut-Kale, Eski-Kermen- presumably are places where in old times people lived, the rest of the sights associated with cave cities, rather performed protective and auxiliary functions, for example:

1. Bakla. It was located between Simferopol and Bakhchisarai, far from hiking trails. Numerous grottoes and burial grounds will be interesting for inspection.
2. Tepe-Kermen. There is quite a rich concentration of caves and there are two churches. It is located near Bakhchisaray (7 km).
3. Kyz-Kermen. Opposite to Tepe-Kermen, the area is famous for its turtle grotto and excavated monasteries.
4. Kalamita. "Inkerman" - translated from Turkish means "fortress". It is familiar to everyone by its towers and St. Clement's Monastery. It is located near Sevastopol, at the mouth of the Chernaya River.

In fact, in the Crimea a huge number cave monasteries, the most famous among them are:

1. Chilter-Koba. It is also called the "Grate Cave". It was built on Cape Ai-Todor, not far from modern Sevastopol. Architectural ensemble consists of 23 rooms and 1 temple, cut into the rock.
2. Chilter Marmara. Near the village of Ternovka, 50 caves are built in 4 tiers.
3. Shuldan. Also located near the Ternovki near Sevastopol. There are about 20 caves, they are placed in 2 tiers.
4. Kachi-Kalion. Its outlines resemble giant ship with many cave windows, upstairs in the grotto there is healing spring named after Saint Anastasia. Located near the village. Bashtanovka, which is 7 km from the city of Bakhchisaray.

Some attractions Western Crimea can be added to the cave cities, for example, the Suren fortress. But in any case, they have something to see and get indelible impressions from what they saw. There, not far from this fortress, you can go to the Chelter-Koba cave monastery - one of its features is a font with ice water. I don’t know about its super-properties, but it’s really very invigorating, especially in summer. Here is a video about this monastery for you:

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In the evenings, by the fires, Crimean archaeologists sing a song with guitars about the beautiful Chersonesos adventuress Theodora, who managed to fall in love with the prince of a mountain state. He was so subdued by the beauty that he not only married her, but also renamed the country in her honor. So, her fate was inextricably linked with a unique architectural phenomenon, which is the cave cities of Crimea. Mangup, the largest of them, was the capital of the principality named after her.

A bit of geology

There are quite a few caves in Crimea where people have never lived. And this fact is directly related to the existence of cave cities. Peculiarities geological structure Crimean mountains are such that different rocks provide them with a kind of “layering”, which is especially susceptible to the action of water and other types of erosion. As a result, natural karst cavities are formed.

Often found in and limestone - a stone formed by bottom sediments ancient sea, from the bottom of which the peninsula rose at one time. Limestone is soft, easy to process, which is why it has been used for construction since ancient times. Thus, geology did a good job of ensuring that the ancient inhabitants of Taurida did not need the indispensable construction of housing on earth.

Dig - don't build

The history of the ancient and medieval world is full of wars. A person at that time could not feel safe if he was not protected by strong walls of a dwelling, and even better - a mighty fortress. But it was not easy to build such things on your own at the then level of development of technology. Consequently, the inhabitants of the Crimea turned their attention to natural fortifications - mountains and grottoes in them.

People of the Stone Age simply looked after a cave to their taste and settled in it - in the Crimea, many cave sites are known, starting from 100 thousand years BC. Having acquired more advanced tools, they began to change the shape of the dwellings provided to them by nature, making them more comfortable and reliable. The presence of settlements in Tauris is also mentioned by Greek and Roman authors. Scientists of a later time are sure that the tradition of their construction was not interrupted until the century.

Most of these residential complexes were actually built by Theodorites, but often they came to the site of an existing town. There is an opinion
that such construction stimulated the invasion of the bloodthirsty Huns. From the point of view of a man of the Middle Ages, life in caves had a number of significant advantages:

• did not have to build housing and fortifications with their own hands from beginning to end;
• the structure turned out to be very strong and reliable;
• the mountains, where the cave cavities were located, served as an additional line of defense;
• manually it was impossible to build a wall as reliable as a stone monolith.

The settlers changed the shape of the existing cavities (usually rectangular or vaulted rooms were obtained), cut down in limestone or other soft rocks new cells, connected them with transitions or blocked off with partitions. There was no need for walls and towers - man-made fortifications were usually installed only from the side of the entrance to locality and they were small. Building material appeared during the construction itself - blocks of rock were taken out.

A modern person will not have to taste to live in a cold cave, even if it is a beautiful shape. But he is spoiled by the world, and medieval people were more worried about safety from enemies than about domestic comfort.

Cave towns, fortresses and monasteries

Cave towns of the Crimea according to their purpose can be divided into three groups:

1. Actually the city. It is especially rich in such monuments - in its vicinity are Mangup, Eski-Kermen, Chufut-Kale. They are characterized big square, many residential and commercial buildings. A significant number of people lived here permanently, and in the event of war they turned into major centers defense.
2. Defense complexes. Such fortresses were designed to give shelter to the surrounding population in case of war. There could be a sentry garrison. The permanent population was small, and their area is small. Examples are Kalamita, Syuyren fortress, Bakla, Tepe-Kermen.
3. Cultural buildings. Medieval monasteries have always been well-fortified castles, Crimean ones are no exception. The caves became churches, monks' cells, stores of their supplies. The most famous are the Inkerman Monastery, Chelter-Marmara, Shuldan-Koba.

Cave monasteries and cities of Crimea arouse strong interest among archaeologists, historians, just lovers of the past and all sorts of mystics and esotericists. Rare a tourist route the mountains do without visiting at least one of them. In total there are more than a dozen of them.

Capital of Theodoro

Mangup is the largest of the cave cities in the Crimea. It is elevated 200 m above the surrounding valleys - you will not envy the enemy who decided to storm it.
This opinion was fully shared by the Turkish conquerors. It is believed that it was they who called the city Mangup - "ill-fated", because of the number of losses incurred during its capture.

Photos allow you to appreciate the skill of medieval architects. The last inhabitants left the policy after, but even now galleries with columns, twisted stairs, and multi-level premises have been preserved in the rocks. The city was built by the Goths, who settled here during the Great Migration of Nations. They created the state of Dori (later Theodoro) - a powerful principality, allied to Byzantium, which conducted active trade and had strong international ties, in particular with Moscow.

And the beautiful Theodora, who found her prince here, is ready to help her descendants in the same. Local archaeologists say that in Mangup it is very easy to understand which person is your soul mate.

Cave cities on the map of Crimea

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Attractions

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The term “cave cities”, although it is well-established in science and everyday life, in fact has a number of conventions, given which this phrase is usually enclosed in quotation marks. This term also includes defensive fortifications, monasteries and settlements, once equipped in caves, often expanded and deepened by man. The rocks themselves were impregnable fortress, people only thought of defensive structures. IN this moment all the "cave cities" of the inner ridge of the Crimean mountains are part of the Bakhchisaray historical, cultural and archaeological museum-reserve.

This is the most visited and accessible of the cave cities. It is located on the outskirts of Bakhchisaray, you can get there by public transport, then climbing on foot along a convenient path past the Assumption Monastery. By the end of the forest path passing by the cemetery, the eye will rest on sheer cliffs, dotted with buildings and gloomy eye sockets of caves and rocky canopies. Chufut-kale is located on a plateau, on one side of which there is a gentle rise, and on the other three - steep cliffs overlooking the valley. Archaeological research proved that this plateau was inhabited as early as the Neolithic, but the main fortifications date back to the 6th century and are attributed to the Byzantine settlement. The history of this city was written by several ethnic groups that succeeded each other: Alans, Greeks, Tatars, Karaites. The main attractions here, in addition to the grandiose view of the valley, are the streets, the ruins of a mosque, a catchment well, a Karaite kenassa, a five-meter-thick defensive wall, a mint, a prison and the tomb of Janike Khanym (daughter of Tokhtamysh Khan), shrouded in many legends. Nearby, in the "Jossaphat Valley", there is an old Karaite cemetery. The surroundings of Chufut-Kale are very picturesque, here Kramskoy painted several sketches for his canvas “Christ in the Desert”, local views are often found in the paintings of contemporary Crimean artists.

Mount Mangup is higher and more majestic than many surrounding mountains, three deep ravines divide it into four finger capes along which a defensive wall with towers runs from the north. A citadel rises on Cape Teshkli-Burun ancient city Theodoro. Traces of the first settlements here date back to the 3rd - 4th century, while the significance of Mangup began to fade in the first half of the 17th century. Scythian-Sarmatians, Goth-Alans, Greeks, Khazars and later Turks and Karaites lived here. This city had no equal in terms of territory and infrastructure, provided with water, with a total length of fortifications of 1500 meters, it could accommodate a large number of local with livestock and property. There is a picturesque area around the settlement, the lake at the foot of the mountain attracts a large number of tourists and locals to rest all year round. The ruins of the majestic medieval city, the capitals of Theodoro Principality: fragments of walls of defensive lines, Karaite tombstones, a citadel and a siege well, a basilica, an octagonal temple, northern and southern cave monasteries.

Not far from Mangup there is a large impressive cave city, in which more than 350 caves have been preserved, available for inspection and visiting. The construction of the fortress dates back to the second half of the 6th century. Alano-Gothic warriors-federates were stationed there. This city has one of the most tragic fates- it was heavily destroyed, the first time at the end of the 8th century during the uprising against the Khazars. Despite this, temples have been preserved: the basilica, the temple of the Three Horsemen rising along the southern path, carved in a rounded block of stone, the Great Cave Temple in the shape of a shamrock, cave temple at the city gates, the temple of the Donators, the temple of the Court of an unusual shape, as well as the gate, the basilica and the impressive siege well, to which 86 steps lead, very slippery and almost hewn. In the temples of the Three Horsemen, the Assumption and the Donators, the remains of Byzantine paintings of the XIII-XIV centuries.

Remains of the third largest city now almost destroyed economic activity monastery, which was formed in the XIX century in the caves under the fortress. Kalamita was formed to protect the gorge of the Black River in the time of Chersonesos. Later, in the XIV century, this fortification became the property of the princes Theodoro, known to us from travels to Mangup-Kala. Later, the Turks conquered the fortress, adapting it to the realities of a new invention - firearms. The ruins of the fortress are located on the upper tier of the rock, on both sides the fortress was protected by steep cliffs, and from the side of the plateau - by a wall, the ruins of which have been preserved, with towers and a moat. Now people are more attracted to a large monastery, located right on the cliff of the fortress, it has more than two hundred rooms and two churches. The monastery restored its activities in 1990. A little higher along the valley of the Chernaya River and on its other side there are many caves, incl. monastery churches.

It is more difficult to get to Tepe-Kermen, perhaps that is why this cave system studied least of all: it is necessary either to rise from the village. Machine, or go along the path from the rear gate of Chufut-Kale. Mount Tepe-Kermen is located above the valley of the Kacha River and resembles a volcano in outline - it is almost a regular cone-shaped shape, hence the name: peak-fortress. There was a settlement from the 6th to the 14th century. Most famous monument Here - cave church with a baptismal and an altar surrounded by six columns, of which, however, only half survived. There are caves on Tepe-Kermen different types, with beds, with doors and with hatches, tombs and cisterns for storing water, there are also several caves of incomprehensible function without windows and half human height.

This cave city is located on a spur of the Inner Ridge of the Crimean Mountains, 8 kilometers from Bakhchisaray. One of the names of Mount Kachi-Kalyon is the Cross Ship, and indeed, if you look closely, the mountain looks like a nose huge ship, and the cracks on it form an image of a huge cross. Kachi-Kalyon is not very well studied archaeologically, and there is little written evidence of the city. Rooms, chapels with crosses and tombs, and tarapans were carved into the rocks. There are remains of a defensive wall that can be traced near the interesting place on the mountain - the temple of Hagia Sophia, which is carved in a separate piece of rock. Obviously, they were engaged in winemaking here - some feral vines can be found to this day, and some rooms were equipped with grape presses. There are 5 grottoes on Kachi-Kalyon, the source of St. Anastasia with water, which is considered healing, and even now you can meet many pilgrims there.