Ekaterina's estate 2 in Tsaritsyno. Architectural ensemble

The history of the creation of the Tsaritsyno estate is associated with the name architect Vasily Bazhenov. This talented architect could not fully realize almost none of his grandiose projects. The estate "Tsaritsyno" was no exception.

The Wrath and Mercy of the Queen

Vasily Bazhenov was born into the family of a deacon in one of the Moscow court churches. The boy from childhood showed the talent of an artist and was noticed by the architect Dmitry Ukhtomsky, who took him as a student. Later he received an excellent education: he was among the first students of the Academy of Arts established in St. Petersburg, one of the first was sent by the academy to study in Paris. Upon his return to Russia, he was favored by the Empress and began developing his main project - Kremlin Palace. The project surpassed everything that was created in Europe at that time - both in grandeur and in unprecedented courage. The ceremony of laying the foundation stone of the palace took place, a design model was created, but things did not go beyond this.

In 1775, the architect was entrusted with the construction of festive pavilions on the Khodynka field, where a celebration was to take place on the occasion of the conclusion of the Kyuchuk-Kaynarji peace in the Russian-Turkish war. Catherine II liked the buildings, and soon Bazhenov was entrusted with the construction palace ensemble in Tsaritsyn. The young architect was inspired by the idea of creating a new, special architecture that Russia had not yet seen.

According to his idea, the Tsaritsyno estate was to become a single complex, in which the Empress's palace was also not a dominant. By 1785, the construction of the imperial residence was completed, only interior finishes. Catherine II decided to get acquainted with the progress of construction herself and arrived in Moscow. Arriving at Tsaritsyno, she examined the residence and the practically completed palaces and was indignant: the vaults seemed to her too heavy, the rooms too low, the boudoirs too cramped, the stairs too narrow. She decided that it was impossible to live in them at all. Bazhenov was removed from further construction, and the creation of a new project was entrusted to his student, Matvey Kazakov, which especially hurt the architect. There are many versions why Catherine did not like the palace. According to one of them, the intrigues and Masonic connections of the architect were to blame, according to the other, Bazhenov's rebellious temper and the fact that he constantly went beyond the estimate.

Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

Nature of Black Mud

The natural heritage of the estate is one of its most important treasures. It is thanks to him Catherine II this place was chosen to create a residence. The village of Black Dirt (as Tsaritsyno was then called) in different times belonged to noble families - the queen Irina Godunova, Streshnev, Golitsyn, Kantemiram. In May 1775, Empress Catherine II visited the Kantemirov estate, was fascinated by the beauty of these places and immediately bought the estate. During the construction, Bazhenov did not make major changes to the landscape, but rather, on the contrary, inscribed buildings in the natural environment. When creating the park, he was helped by gardeners ordered from abroad, who were able to create a harmonious park. In one of the letters of 1784, the architect wrote: “For nine years, Tsaritsyno has been so dressed up with pleasant groves and views of various paintings that such a place is hardly found in England itself.” A cascade of ponds with a dam was created here when Vasily Golitsyn at the end of the 17th century. Under him, an island was created on one of the ponds, which still exists.

Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

The Tsaritsyno Ponds have been and remain a favorite place for Moscow fishermen and have long been overgrown with fishing legends. So, Mikhail Pylyaev in the article "Old Moscow" in 1891 he wrote: "In 1886, a large sturgeon with an earring in the lip, launched under Catherine II, was caught here by the tenant of the Tsaritsyno ponds." This is how Mr. Kureshin described this case in his “Moscow Feuilleton”: “When the sturgeon was dragged in nets, the tenant was delighted, but then the district warden intervened in the matter. I mean historical meaning sturgeon, the overseer did not allow the tenant to take it, but suggested the following: arrange a special vessel for the sturgeon, put guards at the expense of the tenant for protection and store the sturgeon until he, the overseer, reports to the specific office, and the office will be demolished with the palace department, etc. ., until, in a word, the final order of the higher authorities follows. Thinking, the tenant scratched his head and released the sturgeon on all four sides, and about all of the above, a long protocol was drawn up, however, no longer than a sturgeon, which was 2 arshins 11 inches.

Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

romantic ruins

In the 19th century, the Cossack Grand Palace, the Bazhenov buildings were rebuilt, destroyed, some were covered with moss, overgrown with shrubs. The manor that fell into disrepair was so beautiful and touchingly sad that legends appeared according to which Bazhenov deliberately did not complete the palace for the grandchildren of the Empress, so that it would be more convenient for them to climb on it.

Tsaritsyno park. Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

By the 20th century, Tsaritsyno had finally fallen into decay. The first attempts to turn the estate into a museum appeared in 1960. In the mid-1970s, the first projects were ready, but due to their complexity, the restoration dragged on for years. In the 1990s, restoration work was extremely slow due to lack of funds. In addition, many did not see the point in completely restoring Tsaritsyno from the ruins: it was impossible to recreate Bazhenov's plan, and in the ruins themselves they saw a symbol of the romantic era in which the architect lived. However, after the transfer of the complex to the ownership of the city in 2005, large-scale restoration work began, and two years later Tsaritsyno was completely reconstructed.

Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

Today Tsaritsyno is not just a museum-reserve, but a huge Cultural Center. The building of the large palace presents exhibitions dedicated to the history of the estate, Empress Catherine II, and archaeological finds discovered in the park. Art exhibitions are organized here, dedicated to both the art of the old masters and the latest conceptual trends. "Tsaritsyno" - the largest concert venue in Moscow, in the halls Grand Palace and the Atrium of the Khlebny Dom host concerts of classical and jazz music. The Tsaritsyno Museum-Reserve is a popular children's educational center.

Beauty and HealthTourism

Tsaritsyno Park is often perceived only as a place to relax. Picturesque views, an amazing architectural complex, alleys, paths, ponds, fountains and sculptures - all this, of course, pleases the eye. Now the infrastructure is quite developed in the park. There are cafes, restaurants and entertainment establishments. However, this place was created not only for entertainment. A tour of Tsaritsyno can become a real excursion into history. The park and the estate are fraught with a lot of secrets and even mystical phenomena.

History of the estate Tsaritsyno

Tsaritsyno is usually associated with the name of Empress Catherine II. Indeed, in 1775 she bought these lands in order to build a palace here and set up magical gardens. However, fate decreed otherwise.

In ancient times, these lands belonged to the Slavic tribe - Vyatichi. But the first mention of this place appeared only in the 16th century. The famous Tsaritsyno ponds appeared under Boris Godunov. That is why the oldest of them is called Borisovsky, and earlier it was called Tsareborisovsky. At the end of the 17th century there was a village with the amazing name Black Dirt. It belonged to Prince Golitsyn. At the beginning of the 18th century, the village passes to D.K. Cantemir, the Moldavian ruler, by decree of Peter I.

In the second half of the 18th century, Catherine II visited here and simply fell in love with the nature of Black Mud. Then it was decided to buy these lands, build a royal residence here and call it Tsaritsyno. Construction imperial palace was entrusted to Bazhenov. It is worth noting that the temper of the empress was not simple. Gradually, Bazhenov fell into disfavor. For almost ten years, the work on the construction of the main buildings and the laying out of gardens lasted. Already in the course of work between Catherine II and the architect there were clashes. So, in 1784, English gardeners were invited to Moscow, who completely changed the appearance of the gardens, lovingly laid out by Bazhenov in the original Russian style.

Soon Catherine II arrived in Tsaritsyno and ordered to demolish everything that had been built by Bazhenov. The architect was removed from this work. It is officially believed that the empress did not like the appearance of the palace. However, there were rumors that Bazhenov fell out of favor for "infecting" the son of the Empress, Tsarevich Pavel, with the ideas of Freemasonry.

Bazhenov was replaced by the eminent architect Kazakov. Over the next 10 years, until the death of Catherine II, he was engaged in the creation of a new architectural complex. Historians argue that in many ways the architect sought to learn from Bazhenov's experience. Therefore, to this day, we can see in the guise of Tsaritsyn the idea of an architect who fell under the hot hand of the Empress. After the death of Catherine II, the park and the estate were abandoned. And only at the end of the 20th century did the reconstruction of Tsaritsyn begin. Restoration of the park and architectural complex was completed in 2007. Muscovites immediately fell in love with Tsaritsyno. The combination of picturesque alleys, ponds, islands, pavilions and a monumental palace in gothic style makes this place the center of attraction for all metropolitan residents.

Architecture Tsaritsyno

The basis of the estate is the Grand Tsaritsyno Palace. It consists of two massive wings connected by a gallery. One wing was supposed to belong to Catherine II, and the second - to her son, Tsarevich Pavel. The gallery is quite massive and looks like the main element of the building when viewed from the front. The Gothic appearance of the palace is best emphasized by strict towers located at the corners of the structure. At the same time, elements characteristic of classicism, which gained popularity at the end of the 18th century, are visible in its architecture. The red and white design of the palace and many decorative elements are reminiscent of the Kremlin architecture. Therefore, the Grand Tsaritsyno Palace is a building that has absorbed several architectural styles. It is worth noting that this combination did not lead to a cacophony during appearance, but merged into a single harmonious appearance of a monumental structure. The restorers tried to recreate the appearance of the palace from the time of Catherine II. However, one element did not fit into the overall architectural ensemble. The fact is that the building had a temporary roof, painted in a gloomy black color. For that locals they did not like the palace very much, they called it the coffin of a giant, a hearse and a dungeon. Therefore, the restorers decided to contribute to the appearance of the palace. Now its roof is painted in a light color and decorated with decorative elements.

About architectural appearance The residence of Catherine II can be talked about for a long time. But it is even better to see all the buildings of Tsaritsyn with your own eyes - and the amazing Small Palace, successfully inscribed in the shape of a hill, and the Bazhenov Bread House, decorated with the emblems of a loaf and salt shaker, and the Figured Bridge, striking with an abundance of decorative elements, and the Opera House, and cavalry corps, and much more.

Tsaritsyno park

Tsaritsyno park is favorite place for the rest of many Muscovites. Guests of the capital also come here to admire the architecture, relax in the shade of lindens and birches, take a walk along the beautiful alleys. It, like the main buildings, was restored after a long desolation. There are several places in the park that are a must-see. Among them is the pavilion of Milovid, made in the antique style. It is an open vaulted gallery supported by columns. It is decorated with figures of sphinxes, statues of Bacchantes and goddesses - Venus and Aurora. Milovida is located at the intersection of many alleys of the park, including Deaf Avenue and Morning Path.

Another interesting building The park is the Ruin Tower. From the end of the 18th to the beginning of the 19th centuries there was a special fashion for buildings that appearance looked like ruins. And this building was erected by decree of Catherine II. The Empress saw the tower in the drawing of a nobleman who traveled to the Ionian Islands and made several sketches. This building is made of roughly hewn stone, the masonry is deliberately careless. At the top of the tower is Observation deck, to which the so-called "devil's staircase" leads. She got this name for her insidious property - climbing the stairs was easy, but going down was quite difficult. More than one injury was received by the guests of Tsaritsyn, trying to descend from the Tower-ruin, while being "drunk".

Perhaps, most romantic place the park is the pavilion of Nerastankino. The name itself evokes thoughts of love and separation. At the same time, in ancient documents this place is called Mirostankino. The fact is that nearby are the ancient burial grounds of the Vyatichi. Perhaps this building, made in the style of classicism, was intended to remind that of the frailty of all things. From the pavilion there is a slope that leads to the Upper Pond with an island, on which you can see an arch-ruin. The island is called the Mermaid, and the arch is called the Mermaid Gate. Perhaps this name is associated with one of the entertainments of Catherine II. The Empress loved all kinds of performances and ordered to arrange an "air theater", that is, a theater under open sky. The performances took place on the island. An inconspicuous passage was brought to him, along which the girls walked in order to suddenly appear on the island and take part in the performance. This idea pleased the Empress.

The entire park is divided around a cascade of ponds, which undoubtedly give a special charm to the former royal residence. Openwork bridges, islands, water birds - these species cause peace. The Upper Pond is considered the most beautiful, it is on it that the Mermaid Island is located. There are several boat docks along the coast. On the middle pond is quite big Island. It is not known what it was used for under the empress, but now a beautiful light-dynamic fountain has been built in its bend.

Pond in Tsaritsyno

In the old days, Tsaritsyno was called Black Dirt and belonged to the Vyatichi tribe: here they built sanctuaries, erected altars and buried their leaders. Then two women - Princess Solomonia and Princess Maria (daughter of Cantemir) - cursed these lands because men ruined their lives.

In the 18th century, the territory passed to Dimitri Kantemir, an associate of Peter I. His descendant sold the estate to Catherine II, who gave it a new name in accordance with her “position”. The empress enthusiastically set about arranging the object, attracted Vasily Bazhenov and Matvey Kazakov, the largest architects of their time, to the project. There was not enough money to implement what was planned, as often happens with megaprojects, and the ensemble was completely put in order only in the 21st century. The museum-reserve was founded in 1984, in 2007 the main restoration work was completed.

Vasily Bazhenov. View of Tsaritsyno village. Design drawing. 1776

Figured bridge in Tsaritsyno

Architectural features of the complex

Although there are only a few truly Gothic architectural monuments in Russia, the neo-Gothic of the 18th century found a response in the soul of domestic masters who combined lancet arches, towers, carved facades with elements of baroque and classicism. The red-brick, white-stone palace ensemble in Tsaritsyno is recognized as the most striking embodiment of "Russian Gothic" in the country.

Bazhenov's creations

Covered with a low dome, the two-story Kitchen Building, or Bread House, which is a square with rounded corners in plan, was intended to serve the appetites of the imperial court. It was to house more than 80 kitchens and pantries. The name of the building was given by the emblem in the form of bread and salt. Vasily Bazhenov prepared the project, but construction was completed many years after his death, in the 19th century. The compact Small and Middle Palaces, or the Opera House, where the empress, her son and a narrow circle of their closest friends spent time, were completely completed. Most of the buildings for the retinue were irretrievably lost, with the exception of three Cavalry Corps, stylistically in harmony with the palaces. Decorative bridges and gates, according to the architect, point to the boundaries of the complex, but in the absence of walls they do not carry a functional load.

Kazakov's legacy

The central building of the ensemble was originally designed and built by Bazhenov, but the almost completed building seemed too gloomy to Catherine. Matvey Kazakov had to fulfill the will of the Empress, who designed a giant palace with a majestic central gallery and many towers. The ongoing construction was interrupted due to funding problems, and then completely frozen. All XIX and most In the 20th century, guests of Tsaritsyno admired the increasingly dilapidated ruins until a decision was made to restore the building according to the surviving documents. The new Grand Palace was built from modern materials, but corresponds to the general spirit and style of the Tsaritsyno ensemble.

Winter in Tsaritsyno

Permanent exhibition of the museum

Most guests come to Tsaritsyno to wander around the park and admire the colorful openwork walls of the palaces, but there are many interesting things inside the buildings. More than 40,000 works of decorative and applied art of the peoples that were once part of the USSR, and items related to the imperial family are presented in spacious halls. Among the most unusual exhibits are decorations from the 12th century, miraculously surviving tableware contemporaries of the palace, and portraits of the owner of all this luxury. Photographing of exhibits is allowed, but without the use of a flash.

Temporary exhibitions

Valuable exhibits are brought to Tsaritsyno from museums in Moscow and the regions; interesting thematic collections are made up of items included in the museum's funds. In 2015, there are exhibitions of military-themed porcelain, sculptures from the Ostankino estate-museum, and tapestries by French masters. Please check with the museum staff for the possibility of taking photographs.

The museum complex as a concert venue

Museum-Reserve "Tsaritsyno" has become a center of attraction for lovers classical music and literature. In the Atrium of the Khlebny Dom, organ concerts and reading performances are held, and chamber works are performed in the Musical Lounge. The Bazhenov Hall is designed for 100 guests; the most notable events take place here.

Tsaritsyno park and greenhouses

The landscape park, so popular in the landscape architecture of the 18th century, was one of the first in Russia to be set up outside St. Petersburg palaces by masters specially invited from England. Under the first mistress and at the beginning of the 19th century, three huge greenhouses not only pleased the eyes of visitors, but also brought considerable income. From here, exotic fruits, vegetables and greens were supplied to the tables of the aristocracy. Then interest in elite agricultural projects disappeared, buildings were restored less than 10 years ago. Spacious greenhouses are still used for their intended purpose: they grow exotic plants from different corners world, and the range of species is reproduced exactly as under Catherine. They drive through greenhouses and the park thematic excursions for adults and children: in the First Building, guests will meet with the ever-blooming Winter Garden, the Second and Grape Gardens are given over to fruit, berry and vegetable crops.

Autumn in Tsaritsyno

Information for visitors

You can spend a whole day inspecting the greenhouses in Tsaritsyno, so tickets for them are sold separately and cost 250 rubles. Beneficiaries: schoolchildren and students, pensioners, the disabled - get concession tickets for 80 rubles. Access to the park is free from 6 am to midnight, but it is forbidden to walk on the historic lawns and flower beds. Greenhouses open at 11 am and receive visitors until 18-20 pm from Wednesday to Sunday, Monday and Tuesday are days off. Guests will be offered excursions and educational programs, participation in which should be taken care of when planning a visit. Experienced guides will tell tourists about the language of flowers in the 18th century, about the role of plants in Christian rites, about the history of landscape gardening art and even teach how to properly plant seeds and care for exotic species fruit trees.

View of the Upper Pond

Tsaritsyn Ponds

The ponds that appeared long before the construction of Catherine's estate fell into decay after the death of Catherine, they were put in order already in our century, artificial islands and piers were equipped. Today it is the oldest and largest of the artificial water structures that have survived in the capital. The ponds are closed for swimming, but you can ride catamarans and boats here.

Legends of Tsaritsyno

Moscow diggers say that in Tsaritsyno there are underground passages connecting the Small and Big Palaces, and that sectarians gather there. Scientists found in February 1993 a large geopathic zone under the main palace of the ensemble. Old-timers recall legends about curses and wonder how long the new building will stand.

Information for guests of the museum-reserve "Tsaritsyno"

ruin tower

The village of Tsaritsyno has always amazed with its stunning nature, but it brought misfortune and grief to all its inhabitants. It was not destined to become such beauty available only to one owner.

At first, the Vyatichi Slavs lived in these surroundings, leaving barrows behind them. Then the village of Black mud appeared here, bought by the wife of the Russian Tsar Fyodor Ioannovich, Irina Godunova, in the 16th century. She built a manor here, which burned down completely during the period of the Polish-Lithuanian intervention. In the future, these lands went to the boyars Streshievs and princes Golitsyns, beautiful houses were built here, there were wonderful gardens. However, it turned out that the Streshiev family died out, the Golitsyns were exiled to Siberia, and Black Dirt was transferred to Cantemir, the Moldavian prince.

After a while, the estate was acquired by Catherine the Great at a price of 25,000 rubles. Black mud is renamed Tsaritsyno village. Large-scale construction begins, entrusted to the architect V.I. Bazhenov. A palace is being built here, a refectory adjoining it, gazebos, a theater, grottoes and caves are being built. Despite the fact that all the work was carried out with the personal approval of the Empress, upon completion of construction, Catherine the Great unexpectedly orders the palace and all buildings to be demolished. What exactly the queen did not like and what was the reason for this discontent is unknown.

Somewhat later, work on the construction of the palace began again, already under the guidance of the architect M.F. Kazakov. The palace was almost completed when Catherine II died. The heir to the Empress Paul I stops construction, and the palace is forgotten for a long time. For two centuries the palace was dilapidated and empty. There were bad rumors and ghost stories about him. At one time, a rooming house and a tavern were located here, and in the post-revolutionary years, the village council and the club.

In the 80s of the 20th century, the gradual restoration of the Tsaritsyno objects began. With particular activity, restoration work is being carried out in the period 2005-2007. On September 2, 2007, the opening takes place State Museum-Reserve called Tsaritsyno.

During the restoration work, many palace buildings and most park structures were restored. The Grand Palace was also restored. Was thrown over beautiful openwork bridge through the Middle Tsaritsyno Pond, which relies on artificial island. On this island they erected light and music fountain, whose repertoire includes compositions by Tchaikovsky, 30 compositions by Paul Mauriat. The size of the park was doubled due to the inclusion of new territories in its composition. Now the park is always crowded, because the park has a special aura of tranquility, there is no fuss and screams, it is good here at any time of the year.

The Wrath and Mercy of the Queen

Vasily Bazhenov was born into the family of a deacon in one of the Moscow court churches. The boy from childhood showed the talent of an artist and was noticed by the architect Dmitry Ukhtomsky, who took him as a student. Later he received an excellent education: he was among the first students of the Academy of Arts established in St. Petersburg, one of the first was sent by the academy to study in Paris. Upon his return to Russia, he was favored by the Empress and began developing his main project - the Kremlin Palace. The project surpassed everything that was being created in Europe at that time, both in grandiosity and unprecedented courage. The ceremony of laying the foundation stone of the palace took place, a design model was created, but things did not go beyond this.

In 1775, the architect was entrusted with the construction of festive pavilions on the Khodynka field, where a celebration was to take place on the occasion of the conclusion of the Kyuchuk-Kaynarji peace in the Russian-Turkish war. Catherine II liked the buildings, and soon Bazhenov was entrusted with the construction of the palace ensemble in Tsaritsyn. The young architect was inspired by the idea of creating a new, special architecture that Russia had not yet seen.

Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

According to his idea, the Tsaritsyno estate was to become a single complex, in which the Empress's palace was also not a dominant. By 1785, the construction of the imperial residence was completed, only interior decoration remained. Catherine II decided to get acquainted with the progress of construction herself and arrived in Moscow. Arriving at Tsaritsyno, she examined the residence and the practically completed palaces and was indignant: the vaults seemed to her too heavy, the rooms too low, the boudoirs too cramped, the stairs too narrow. She decided that it was impossible to live in them at all. Bazhenov was removed from further construction, and the creation of a new project was entrusted to his student, Matvey Kazakov, which especially hurt the architect. There are many versions why Catherine did not like the palace. According to one of them, the intrigues and Masonic connections of the architect were to blame, according to the other, Bazhenov's rebellious temper and the fact that he constantly went beyond the estimate.

Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

Nature of Black Mud

The natural heritage of the estate is one of its most important treasures. It is thanks to him Catherine II this place was chosen to create a residence. The village of Black Dirt (as Tsaritsyno was then called) at different times belonged to noble families - the queen Irina Godunova, Streshnev, Golitsyn, Kantemiram. In May 1775, Empress Catherine II visited the Kantemirov estate, was fascinated by the beauty of these places and immediately bought the estate. During the construction, Bazhenov did not make major changes to the landscape, but rather, on the contrary, inscribed buildings in the natural environment. When creating the park, he was helped by gardeners ordered from abroad, who were able to create a harmonious park. In one of the letters of 1784, the architect wrote: “In the nine years [from the beginning of the construction of the estate], Tsaritsyno was so dressed up with pleasant groves and views of various paintings that there is hardly such a place in England itself.” A cascade of ponds with a dam was created here when Vasily Golitsyn at the end of the 17th century. Under him, an island was created on one of the ponds, which still exists.

Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

The Tsaritsyno Ponds have been and remain a favorite place for Moscow fishermen and have long been overgrown with fishing legends. So, Mikhail Pylyaev in the article "Old Moscow" in 1891 he wrote: "In 1886, a large sturgeon with an earring in the lip, launched under Catherine II, was caught here by the tenant of the Tsaritsyno ponds." This is how Mr. Kureshin described this case in his “Moscow Feuilleton”: “When the sturgeon was dragged in nets, the tenant was delighted, but then the district warden intervened in the matter. Bearing in mind the historical significance of the sturgeon, the overseer did not allow the tenant to take it, but suggested the following: arrange a special sudok for the sturgeon, put guards at the expense of the tenant and store the sturgeon until he, the overseer, reports to the specific office, and the office is demolished with the palace department, etc., until, in a word, the final order of the higher authorities follows. Thinking, the tenant scratched his head and released the sturgeon on all four sides, and about all of the above, a long protocol was drawn up, however, no longer than a sturgeon, which was 2 arshins 11 inches.

Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

romantic ruins

Tsaritsyno park. Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

Photo: Tsaritsyno Park Press Service / Dmitry Shchelokov

Today Tsaritsyno is not just a museum-reserve, but a huge cultural center. The building of the large palace presents exhibitions dedicated to the history of the estate, Empress Catherine II, and archaeological finds discovered in the park. Art exhibitions are organized here, dedicated to both the art of the old masters and the latest conceptual trends. Tsaritsyno is the largest concert venue in Moscow; classical and jazz music concerts are held in the halls of the Grand Palace and the Atrium of the Bread House. The Tsaritsyno Museum-Reserve is a popular children's educational center.

Elena Ernyleva.

The Empress' Verdict

- Elena Vasilievna, why did Catherine reject the first draft of Tsaritsyno?

In fact, she initially approved the entire Bazhenov project, which included five palaces. Moreover, it was approved not only initially, but also during construction. Bazhenov built the palace for ten years, and all these years the Empress had never been here, but Bazhenov corresponded with her. We have an exhibition called Tsaritsyn's Past and New, and there are copies of Ekaterina's correspondence with Bazhenov through her secretary.

Photography was not yet thought of in that century, which means that the queen could read, but not see. How did she then control the construction process?

Bazhenov sent all the drawings to her. Suppose he wanted to decorate the Figured Bridge with tiles, but Catherine did not allow it. Thus, Catherine delved into all the little things, into all the details. And even the fact that Bazhenov did not have time to decorate the interiors is due to the fact that Catherine did not give an order on how to decorate them. Bazhenov listed various styles to her, but she did not approve them all. And only by the time she arrived in Tsaritsyno in 1785, he had built almost everything, except for two buildings - the stables and the clock tower. The interiors also remained unfinished, but the architect set to work on them.

- What was Catherine's reaction?

She walked through the halls, examined them, and silently left. And only later, in a letter to Pavel, she wrote that it was inconvenient to live there, the palace needed to be rebuilt. The rooms seemed to her too cramped, narrow and dark.

I read that the real reason for Catherine's dissatisfaction could lie in the figure of Bazhenov himself, who was in close contact with the Masons. Could this have influenced the attitude of the empress towards the architect?

This is also a controversial one. But Bazhenov was indeed a member of the Masonic Lodge: he joined it in 1784, and in 1785 Catherine ordered him removed from work on the project of the Tsaritsyno Palace. In principle, Catherine treated the Freemasons ironically, but Freemasonry can be connected with this in the following way: Bazhenov, on the instructions of the lodge, met with Pavel. Masons believed that Paul should still be emperor. Catherine, of course, might not like this, but this is just one of the versions.

Between Bazhenov and Kazakov

After Ekaterina dismissed Bazhenov, Matvey Kazakov became involved in the project of the estate, who, as I understand it, changed a lot here. Was Bazhenov his mentor?

Kazakov is considered a student of Bazhenov. If Bazhenov studied at the Academy of Arts in St. Petersburg, and then abroad, then Kazakov studied only at the architectural school. Then he already began to work and was an assistant to Bazhenov, worked with him in the Kremlin.

- What changes did Kazakov bring to the project of the Tsaritsyno estate? Is there anything left of Bazhenov here at all?

Whole palace and park ensemble- this is the work of Bazhenov, and only the Grand Palace belongs to Kazakov.

- And what was left of the Kazakov Palace by the time when Tsaritsyno was finally decided to be restored?

The palace was in a state of ruins: there was no roof, there were no intermediate floors. Everything that was preserved at the time of restoration had to be restored. But not a single load-bearing wall was demolished - the skeleton of the building was completely preserved. Kazakov had two versions of the palace, Catherine approved the first of them. In the first version, the palace is a whole floor higher, it contains elegant decorations, spiers with stars, and so on. But already in the course of construction, some changes take place: the second war with Turkey begins, and Catherine stops construction. By this time, Kazakov had completed the central part up to the third floor. Further, the empress orders to urgently complete the construction, and Kazakov leaves the version that you saw at our exhibition: with dark roofs, without elegant spiers, a whole floor lower, without a double-height front hall on the third floor. This is what Kazakov built. In our upper hall of archeology, you could see the conserved foundations: the foundations of the Bazhenov Palace are just partially represented there, and then the foundations of Kazakov. In these foundations, architectural details (for example, parts of columns) of Bazhenov's dismantled palaces are even visible.

Fusion architecture

- Whose version did they try to reproduce during the restoration - Bazhenov or Kazakov?

In 2005, when the restoration of the building began, it was decided to combine the two options. This idea arose back in the 70s of the XX century, they wanted to restore historical justice. Initially, they wanted to restore the building for the Surikov Art Institute (full name: Moscow State Academic Art Institute named after V. I. Surikov under Russian Academy arts. - Approx. ed.). The reconstruction project was developed in the architectural workshop No. 13 "Mosproekt-2". But in the end, this plan remained unrealized, and with the death of Yevgeny Vuchetich, who was then vice president of the USSR Academy of Arts, this idea is gone. In addition, there is an enfilade layout, and it is impossible to adapt such a room for classrooms; beyond that, there were no communications. Apparently, a combination of these reasons led to the fact that this idea was never implemented at that time. In 2005, work on the reconstruction of Tsaritsyno resumed. The same Mosproekt-2 worked. The architects took the same idea of the 70s as a basis, but embodied it in a more simplified form.

- How can you characterize the architectural style in which the estate is made?

You know, there are numerous disputes here, since Tsaritsyno is such a fusion of different architectural styles. But still, most experts define this style as Neo-Gothic. Catherine ordered Bazhenov's palace in the Moorish-Gothic style, which was in vogue at the time. This is due to the fact that in 1775, when the empress bought this estate, in the vicinity of Moscow, on the Khodynka field, the victory over Turkey was celebrated (meaning the holiday in honor of the conclusion of the Kyuchuk-Kaynarji peace. - Approx. ed.). The scenery for this holiday was created by Bazhenov: these were decorative theatrical pavilions in the oriental style, symbolizing the Turkish fortresses taken by the Russian troops.

- Now it is clear where the fashion for the Turkish style came from in the 18th century. What is "Russian Gothic"?

By "Gothic" then they understood the entire Middle Ages: Russian, European - they did not make any distinctions. Well, since Bazhenov studied in both France and Italy and was a very talented architect in general, he managed to create such a unique fusion of architecture. Therefore, it is, of course, impossible to disassemble it in detail. Here you can still notice a certain theatricality: after all, the estate itself is made in the image medieval city! Tsaritsyno was created mainly as a summer pleasure estate, and all holidays used to be held on the street. Bazhenov meant that the Empress would walk along the local alleys, examine the buildings from all sides.

Dachas on top of the necropolis

Catherine at one time refused to settle in Tsaritsyno, but did no one really live here until the very appearance of the museum?

In the 60s of the 19th century, many buildings on the territory of the Tsaritsyno park were rented for dacha development; Of course, there was also a redesign. The palace stood untouched, and only at the end of the 19th century they began to gradually demolish the roof: the floors were wooden, and a fire could start, because local vacationers constantly climbed these ruins.

- Which of the celebrities lived and visited at the Tsaritsyno dachas?

In the 1870s, a whole suburban village- New Tsaritsyno. There were a lot of famous gardeners here. We have an exhibition "Country Tsaritsyno" in the Third Cavalry Corps. There are photos and names of all these people. IN different years in Tsaritsyno, many famous writers rented dachas or visited friends and relatives: Fyodor Dostoevsky, Fyodor Tyutchev, Alexei Pleshcheev, Anton Chekhov, Andrei Bely, Ivan Bunin ... Bunin, by the way, it was here that he met his future second wife, Vera Muromtseva. Many famous composers also lived and visited here (Tchaikovsky, Rimsky-Korsakov, Balakirev), historian Vladimir Klyuchevsky, naturalist Kliment Timiryazev, chairman of the first State Duma Sergei Muromtsev and many others. Also here was the dacha of the founder of the Imperial Historical Museum, Ivan Yegorovich Zabelin. He led the excavations of Vyatichi burial mounds in Tsaritsyno Park.

- Vyatichi used to live here? Are there any traces of their stay?

Certainly. In the lower hall of the archeology of our museum there are Vyatichi women's jewelry, they were already found during excavations of the 20th century, they were led by Artemy Artsikhovsky. And what Zabelin found is in the State Historical Museum and, if I'm not mistaken, in the Hermitage.

- Do archaeologists still come to Tsaritsyno now?

In the 2000s, there were excavations at coastline. There were very interesting finds specifically of the Soviet era: they found a lot of glassware, coins. In the Soviet period, there was a recreation area here: mass festivities took place, people sunbathed, swam ... Hence a large number of glassware. We even have an unbroken glass bottle of that time at the exhibition. In the same 2000s, excavations were carried out in the park. There, if you remember, there is a gazebo "Temple of Ceres" - excavations took place at this place. They found clay shards bronze age, which are also in our exposition. There are also finds from the 15th century. According to archaeologists, it was on this high cape, where the gazebo stands, that there were no settlements. Judging by the finds that were made, it was a ritual place - a necropolis. The Vyatichi buried their dead there. Along with the ashes, jewelry and household items were placed in the grave: for women - special seven-lobed temporal rings and "lattice" rings with patterned cuts, for men - knives and sickles.

Mysterious houses "for gentlemen"

The Tsaritsyno ensemble, in addition to the main palace, includes many other, smaller buildings. Who and what were they for?

Bazhenov built five palaces, two of the five survived - Small and Medium. These are palaces for Catherine. The Middle Palace is sometimes called the Opera House because in the 19th century people wanted to give concerts there. By that time, Tsaritsyno had already passed into the control of the county department, and it was necessary that the estate bring income to the treasury. Buildings began to be rented out, a holiday village arose. All the other small buildings you are talking about are now called the Cavalier Corps.

What were these buildings for?

This name was given to them already in the 20th century, during certification. After the Great Patriotic War, Tsaritsyno was included in the list of cultural monuments - first of local, and then of all-Union significance. And in the process of passportization there was a difficulty. First, by that time not all archival documents had yet been raised. In addition, even Bazhenov himself does not write in his letters for whom these houses are intended - for him the external image of the estate was more important. Therefore, for what these buildings were built, it is impossible to say exactly, there are only different assumptions. For example, in one of his letters to Ekaterina Bazhenov wrote that he had built a house for waiters, but which one is unknown. Perhaps this is the smallest house on the territory, hence it is the most extreme. This building differs from the rest in a more modest finish. But again, this is just a guess. So, back to the Cavalier Corps. In Bazhenov's version, there was a Large Cavalry Corps, which Kazakov subsequently demolished. Now the old foundation has been preserved at this place. Bazhenov himself gave this name, and, apparently, it remained in the memory after many years. Therefore, in the 20th century, three buildings were called the Cavalier Corps - the First, Second and Third.

- The name is reminiscent of the cavalry - as if it were something military ...

No, not cavalry, but gentlemen - that is, courtiers. Although we have almost all the visitors who pass by these buildings, instead of "cavalier" they read "cavalry". And there is another building, from which the foundation and name have also been preserved: “Kamer-Yungfar Corps”. "Jungfrau" - these are the girls who serve Catherine. Thus, with the advent of Kazakov, the central part ensemble and the whole composition as a whole, since Bazhenov did not have a dominant palace, Kazakov already singled it out. He, on the one hand, had to please the Empress, and on the other hand, to fit the Grand Palace into the Bazhenov ensemble. How he handled it, we can see today.

- The building where we are now also seems very interesting. And the name is unusual - "Bread House".

With the name, everything is very simple: when this building was being built, Bazhenov was going to arrange a kitchen here. But there is something really interesting: on the facades of the building you can see two mysterious emblems resembling a loaf of bread and a salt shaker. There are suspicions that they are associated with the Masonic order. The rector of the Institute of Architecture Dmitry Shvidkovsky in one of his articles mentions Masonic symbols on the local buildings.

Museum with royal scale

Today Tsaritsyno is one of the most popular places for walking Muscovites, and besides, there are very interesting exhibitions. When did the museum first appear here?

After the October Revolution, the confiscation of dachas began, and Tsaritsyno, together with the territories adjacent to it, was renamed the village of Lenino. In the Bread House were communal apartments. And in 1927, on the occasion of the 10th anniversary of the October Revolution, the Tsaritsyno Historical and Artistic and local history museum. It was very popular with the townspeople: more than 20 thousand people visited it every year. They came to look at the collections of Bazhenov drawings and finds from the burial mounds of the Vyatichi. In the 1930s, the museum was renamed the Leninsky Museum of Local Lore of the Garden District, and then the nature of the exposition changed dramatically. Models of tractors and plows took the place of portraits and chandeliers, the exhibitions "Harvest Day" and "Spring Sowing Campaign" began to be held here. But the museum quickly lost its popularity, and it was closed, and soon the war began ...

- How did the estate survive these difficult years?

The inhabitants of the village built defense lines, an anti-aircraft gun was disguised between the mounds. Over the ruins of palaces constantly flew german planes, and several bombs fell very close to the ancient pavilions. Holes began to appear in the roofs of the dachas. In the post-war years, the district executive committee and the regional archive settled in these buildings, then a club and a music school. In the late 1960s, mass development of the Orekhovo-Borisovo region began, and communal apartments in old dachas began to be settled. An extensive security zone was established around the Tsaritsyno ensemble.

- And how is Tsaritsyno connected with the name of Ilya Glazunov?

Back in the 1950s, the idea arose to create State Museum arts and crafts of the peoples of the USSR, but for a long time they could not find a suitable room. It happened in 1984 thanks to the efforts of Ilya Glazunov. He ensured that it was Tsaritsyno with all the buildings that was transferred to the museum. Then the restoration began. But it was not possible to start it from the Grand Palace, so the walls were mothballed, the openings of windows and doors were closed with nets. Restoration work was carried out from 1987 to 1995. During this period, everything was restored, except for the Grand Palace and the Bread House. Landscaping of the park and pavilions began in 2005. And on September 2, 2007, the official opening reconstructed palace complex"Tsaritsyno". From that moment on, the monument took on a new life.