Chistoprudny boulevard, clean ponds. Chistye Prudy and Chistoprudny Boulevard

Boulevard in the Basmanny district of the Central administrative district city ​​of Moscow. Passes from the Butcher's Gate Square to the Pokrovsky Gate Square, the numbering is from the Butcher's Gate. On the boulevard are Chistye Prudy(in fact, the pond is one). Out on the boulevard: Arkhangelsky Lane from the inside, Bolshoi Kharitonievsky Lane and Makarenko Street from the outside.

A granite barrier with lamps and stone benches forms the entrance to the green strip of the boulevard. Behind him is a monument to A. S. Griboyedov, erected in 1959 (sculptor A. A. Manuilov, architect A. A. Zavarzin).

Chistoprudny Boulevard was arranged in the 1820s, when considerable funds were allocated for the restoration of Moscow after the grandiose fire of 1812.

This is the largest boulevard in the ring and the second after Tverskoy in length (822 meters). In addition to the wide main alley, there is also a quiet side alley, separated by a lawn, which is planted with groups of trees and bushes. Both lanes lead to large area near the pond. In January 1966, a two-story glass cafe opened here. In 1982 it was rebuilt for the first time. The modern White Swan complex was built in the 2000s. In 2006, a monument to Abai Kunanbaev was erected nearby and a fountain was built.

Clean ponds were formed due to the dam flowing along the wall white city river Rachka. Until the end of the 17th century, local butchers dumped garbage from slaughtered cattle into Rachka and the pond, the water spread a stench, which is why the ponds were originally called Pogany (there are other versions of the origin of this name, but the one mentioned above is considered the most common).

The favorite of Peter I, Menshikov, who bought the land now occupied by the post office, cleaned the ponds and strictly forbade polluting them; since then they are called Pure.

From time immemorial, the ponds have been a favorite place for boating, and in winter for ice skating. The author of a guide to Moscow in 1831 invites the reader to visit the boulevard in order to "admire here skating in the manner of English or St. Petersburg."

In 1960, the banks of the pond were reinforced with stone, and in 1966 with concrete.

The pond lined with lindens is surrounded by two narrow alleys converging at the end of the boulevard.

Chistoprudny Boulevard is repeatedly mentioned in Russian literature, both pre-revolutionary - by Pisemsky, Leskov, Boborykin - and Soviet. You can read about the boulevard of the NEP period in the story “Knives” by V. Kataev, according to which an operetta was written at one time. The boulevard of the 1920-1930s is dedicated to the book of Yu. Nagibin, who lived in this area - "Clean Ponds", based on which a movie was made. Many poems by contemporary poets have been written about the boulevard.

At the Pokrovsky Gates, the boulevard closes with a well-preserved building of the former hotel, built at the beginning of the 19th century according to the project, presumably, by V.P. Stasov, although his authorship has not been documented.

The buildings on both sides of the boulevard at the beginning of its existence were predominantly noble. The author of the guidebook of 1831 exudes enthusiasm: “On both sides rise such houses that would seem to our ancestors for something extraordinary: their uneducated mind could never imagine such proportionate stone chambers.” Archival data, however, do not confirm the presence here of either particularly large, even for that time, or architecturally valuable buildings; The "proportionality" of the same buildings for the architecture of the era of classicism was a prerequisite. In any case, in terms of its development, Chistoprudny Boulevard could not be compared with either Tverskoy or Nikitsky Boulevard.

In the second half of the 19th century, the lord's mansions passed into the hands of the middle merchant class, bureaucracy and bourgeoisie. At the same time, several multi-storey apartment buildings appeared here. The Soviet period also made its own adjustments to architectural appearance boulevard: here you can see the buildings of the period of the Soviet avant-garde and the emerging "great Stalinist style".

Chistoprudny Boulevard - a boulevard in the Basmanny district of the Central Administrative District of Moscow. It is located between Myasnitsky Gate Square and Pokrovka. The length of the boulevard is 822 m.

Chistoprudny Boulevard in Moscow - history, name

Once upon a time, a river called Rachka flowed here. It began in Poganaya puddle, flowed along Kolpachny and Podkopaevsky lanes, crossed Podkolokolny lane, Solyanka street and flowed into the Moscow River near the Yauza. In the census of the yards of the patriarchal settlement of 1630, the "puddle" is mentioned as filthy pond: the suburban church was called the church of "Gabriel the Great, on Pogany Pond". After in 1703, by order of Menshikov, the pond was put in order, it began to be called Chisty. In this form, the pond gave the name to the boulevard - Chistoprudny.

There are several versions regarding the origin of the name Filthy Pond.

The most common "blames" the settlement of butchers for everything. Allegedly, the butchers dumped waste into the pond, which made him famous throughout the district. But... First of all, the city did not shine with cleanliness: there were many applicants. Nevertheless, it is difficult to remember other "unsanitary" names. Secondly, the pond was not the closest place for waste. The current Kostyansky lane got its name precisely because the butchers dumped a lot of things there, it was closer.

The second version recalls that the word "filthy" comes from the Latin paganus - "rural". In the process of "introducing" Christianity into ancient rome the greatest gains have been made in the cities. The villagers remained pagans for a long time. This led to the fact that the words "rural" and "pagan" became synonymous. Initially, it simply stated confessional affiliation. Later, when Christianity began to wage a real religious war with paganism, the word acquired a modern meaning, since everything related to paganism was outlawed. The second version is that in ancient times, pagan idols stood by the pond, which, when the era of Christianity came, found their last refuge in it. But this is a deep antiquity.

Recent research suggests that Pogany Pond was elsewhere.

Now about the second part of the name - "boulevard". Chistoprudny Boulevard was broken up in the 1820s. on the site of the fortress wall of the White City. Other boulevards have the same "serf" origin. The custom to arrange alleys with flowers, bushes and trees on the site of the fortress walls came to us from France, where they were called boulevards. In turn, the French boulevard comes from the German Bolwerk - "fortress wall". So, while offering to walk along the boulevard, we suggest walking along the fortress wall. Chistoprudny Boulevard is part of the Boulevard Ring.

In the 1950s on Chistoprudny Boulevard there was a boat station in summer and a skating rink in winter. In the morning, children and junior schoolchildren were let into the skating rink, by the evening it was opened for high school students. The skating rink was surrounded by a high board fence, so it was difficult to get into it in the evening without going through the entrance. It remained to cling to the crack in the fence and look at the falling snow, the garlands of lanterns and, as it seemed then, adults rolling around. In 1958 boat station closed. Swans and ducks were launched instead of boats. Then the skating rink, which had been a children's rink for a short time, was also closed.

Previously, in the area of ​​​​Chistoprudny Boulevard there was a slaughterhouse - "Animal Yard", the waste from which was dumped into a pond (there is only one here), called Pogany. In the time of Peter the Great, Prince Alexander Danilovich Menshikov bought land in the area. The corner building at the Butcher's Gate began to belong to him in 1699. The prince built a church in the depths of the courtyard, which was nicknamed the Menshikov Tower, cleaned the ponds and forbade them to pollute. Since then they are called Pure. The meat trade in this place was curtailed. When A. Menshikov was sent into exile, his house passed to Prince Kurakin, then to the Armenian Lazarev. In 1783, the Moscow Post Office opened in this building. The fire of 1812 did not spare the Chistoprudny Boulevard area either. During its restoration, the remains of the wall of the White House were demolished, the pond was cleaned. Two hotel buildings were built. One of them, at the Butcher's Gate, stood until the construction of the Kirovskaya metro station, which in 1990 was renamed the Chistye Prudy station. And the hotel at the Pokrovsky Gate has survived to this day.
Historically at the walls of the White City; since the 18th century - on Chistoprudny Boulevard. The park area on the boulevard also bears this name.
Known since the 17th century as Filthy Swamps (waste from nearby butcher shops and slaughterhouses was dumped into it). The Rachka River flowed from the pond, flowing south and flowing into the Moscow River at the future Orphanage. At the beginning of the 18th century, it became part of the Moscow estate of A. D. Menshikov, was cleaned out and from that time was called Chisty Pond or Chistye Prudy.
In 1990, the name "Chistye Prudy" was given to the Moscow metro station (from the opening, 1935, it was called "Kirovskaya").
Since the 1990s, Chistye Prudy has become famous all over the world. Russian Federation a cult "party" place in the capital, where bohemians and informal groups gather, lovers of alternative music, including rockers, metalheads, punks, goths, sometimes skinheads. Usually, vacationers meet at the monument to Alexander Sergeevich Griboedov, drink beer and other alcoholic beverages “on the grass”, benches and at the fountain in the western part of Chistoprudny Boulevard and call this place “ChP”, “Chistaki” or simply “Clean”. According to an urban legend, supported by numerous facts, law enforcement agencies turn a blind eye to the massive drinking of alcoholic beverages in this public place, including by minors. Also are permanent place all sorts of political rallies and celebrations of football victories. They often become the venue for all kinds of flash mobs. IN winter period the pond is used as a spontaneous ice rink.

Estate of E. P. Kashkin - A. A. Durasova
House with mezzanine
Moscow, Chistoprudny Boulevard, 10с2

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Profitable house (1875, architect A. E. Weber)
Once it was an outbuilding and was part of the complex of buildings of the Kashkin-Durasova estate.
The building was periodically rebuilt. This happened both in 1817 and in 1859.
The wing underwent the last reconstruction in the period of 1875-1876. The architect Weber supervised the work. Then the house became a separate building.
It was under him that the building was decorated with stucco molding in the form of miniature rosettes, as well as wreaths. In the center of the latter, sculptures of flying pigeons intertwined with ribbons were placed.
Relief slabs with seated babies and columns with Corinthian capitals give the building a special charm.

Charity House for Honored Elderly Members of the Postal and Telegraph Department
Moscow, Chistoprudny Boulevard, 4

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Year of construction 1898,
Architect, sculptor, restorer: A.P. Popov
The two-story building with sharp-angled spiers on the roof was built at the end of the 19th century at the expense of the Russian Post and Telegraph Department.
Here was located the "House of Charity" (as it is now customary to say, "Nursing Home"), in which people lived out their lives, who worked most of their lives in the postal department, who did not have close relatives.
The building still belongs to the Main Post Office of Russia.
After the revolution, the house was adapted for institutions and apartments. In 1922, the Labor Association of Dry Cleaners, the Gamma artel, was located here. In one of the apartments in 1929 lived Alexander Vasilyevich Sveshnikov, who was then the choirmaster of the Second Moscow Art Theater. Then the departmental polyclinic of the Moscow Post Office moved into the building.
The building was laid in May 1895 and in 1898 the first visitors were received here. The author of the project was the architect A.P. Popov.
The facade of the building, facing Chistoprudny Boulevard, was designed in pseudo-Russian (neo-Russian) style.

Moscow, Chistoprudny Boulevard, 1
The house of the merchant Gusyatnikov, after whom the neighboring Gusyatnikov Lane is named. The house survived the Moscow fire (1812). The second house on the boulevard, under the same number, was built by B. V. Freidenberg in 1886.

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The three-story house on the corner of the boulevard was built in 1806. The facade of the house from Myasnitskaya Street was decorated with a six-column portico, which was removed during the reconstruction of the house in 1876, and shops were opened in the building.

Russian Academy of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture
Moscow, Myasnitskaya street, 21/1

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Yushkov's house. Here, from the pre-revolutionary period until 1946, the Russian painter P. I. Kelin, a student of V. A. Serov, a teacher of V. Mayakovsky and B. Ioganson, lived. The house housed the Moscow School of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture (now Russian Academy painting, sculpture and architecture). Built at the turn of the 1780s - 1790s. architect (presumably) V. I. Bazhenov. In the courtyard there are: the House of the Moscow Art Society (1913, architect N. S. Kurdyukov) and an exhibition hall (1910s, architect N. S. Kurdyukov together with V. G. Shukhov).
Russian Academy of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture.
Founded in 1987 by People's Artist of the USSR Ilya Sergeevich Glazunov. From this year to the present, he has been the rector of the Academy. Ilya Glazunov began his active teaching career at the Moscow State Art Institute. Surikov, where he headed the portrait workshop. Since June 10, 2009, it has been named after I. S. Glazunov.
The Russian Academy of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture is located in a building designed by the outstanding Russian architect V.I. Bazhenov on Myasnitskaya street, house 21, - a historical monument of the XVIII century.
Built in 1780-1790 for Lieutenant General I.I. Yushkov's house became a popular high-society salon of the capital. After the death of the Yushkovs, the house belonged to P.I. Yushkov, their son. By this time, the financial affairs of this family had fallen into decay, which forced the owner to hand over part of the premises for a drawing class to the Moscow Art Society in 1838. From this date, a new life begins at Yushkov's house, associated with the Moscow Public School of Arts.
The leaders and organizers of the Moscow (public) school of arts at that time were M.F. Orlov, A.D. Chertkov, F.Ya. Skaryatin, E.I. Makovsky. In the project of a “public art class” prepared by them, it was determined that the Moscow art school being created should provide an opportunity to develop talents from the people.
General M.F. became the chief elective director of the art class and the most active member of the Art Society. Orlov, hero Patriotic War 1812.
The art class was recognized by government bodies only in 1843. In the affairs of the Moscow educational district, he begins to appear from 1844, when the Moscow Art Society acquired the entire building.
At the end of the 19th century, the School actually had the status of a higher educational institution, and in 1905, an imperial order signed by Nicholas II followed to grant the Moscow Art School the rights of a higher educational institution with complete independence in terms of education.
The Moscow School of Painting was different from others educational institutions democratic reception conditions and a truly creative environment. This art school united creative youth, for whom the main principle of creativity in art was realism.
Many of the teachers of the School became members of the Association of Traveling Art Exhibitions.
Since 1865, in connection with the annexation of the Moscow School of Architecture, the School became known as the School of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture.
The leading class of the School was the natural class. It was headed by V.G. Perov, A. Ryabushkin, S. Korovin and many others. The landscape class was led by academician of painting A.K. Savrasov. Among his students were I.I. Levitan and K.A. Korovin - the greatest masters of the Russian landscape. After the death of A.K. Savrasov, the landscape class was led by P.D. Polenov, and then A.M. Vasnetsov. In the 1870s-1890s, V. Pukirev, E. Sorokin, N. Nevrev, S. Korovin, L. Pasternak and others taught at the School.
At that time, exhibitions of famous artists, concerts and charity evenings were held in the premises of the School. The old house on Myasnitskaya Street has always attracted a lot of people. At the end of the 19th century, a four-story educational building was added to the building of Yushkov's house on Bobrov Lane, and at the beginning of the 20th century, two eight-story residential buildings for faculty and students rose in the courtyard.
At the same time, according to the drawings of the architect I.O. Kurdyukov, an exhibition hall was built in the courtyard.
The glazed roof of the hall was designed by the famous Russian designer V.G. Shukhov is the author of the first radio and television tower in Moscow. After the revolutionary events of 1917, the School of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture ceased to exist, and the First State Art Workshops were opened in the premises at 21 Myasnitskaya Street (the latter were opened on the basis of the Stroganov School). Such artists as Lentulov, Konchalovsky, Mashkov, Rodchenko and others, who were members of the Jack of Diamonds association of ARTISTS, as well as Malevich and Kandinsky, who were the founders of abstract art, came as the head of the workshops.

Moscow, Frolov lane, 1
Profitable house of the St. Petersburg Insurance Company "Russia" on Sretensky Boulevard (1899-1902, architect N.M. Proskurnin, A.I. von Gogen) is one of the largest pre-revolutionary residential complexes and one of beautiful buildings in the city.

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In this legendary house (or rather, a complex of buildings), in one of its apartments (N85), before the revolution, the board of the Moscow Football League was located; after 1917 - the Russian Telegraph Agency (ROSTA), the Main Artillery Directorate of the Red Army, the People's Commissariat of Education [broadcasting]. The building was visited by I.E. Repin, M. Gorky, V.I. Lenin; worked M.A. Bulgakov, N.K. Krupskaya; lived scientists M.I. Averbakh, B.D. Grekov, I.E. There M. In the late 1940s, the first Moscow rental office was opened in the house. The famous constructivist architect Sh.E. Le Corbusier considered this house the most beautiful in Moscow.

Valeryanova's house
Moscow, Bobrov lane, 6, building 3

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M. Turgenevskaya, Chistye Prudy
Moscow international center translation
(territory of the Turgenev Library)
The house with apartments for rent was built in 1900 according to the project of architect P.L. Syuzev. The customer was A.A. Valerianova.
The house was restored in the 2000s.
Anna Aleksandrovna Valeryanova is the wife of State Councilor Konstantin Nikolaevich Valeryanov, a survey engineer, a member of the Society for Assistance to Students of the Survey Institute.

Moscow, Frolov lane, 2
Moscow theater "Et cetera" under the direction of Alexander Kalyagin; restaurant "A'propos".

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It appeared on the site of the old Moscow quarter in 2005, and immediately passions flared up around it. The signboard, located to the right of the entrance, lists the architects A.V. Kuzmin, A.V. Bokov, A.A. Velikanov, M.V. Balitsa. However, Velikanov, who began the development of the project, having brought the construction of the building to "concrete", demanded to be excluded from the list of authors, not wanting to have anything to do with the Frolov house, 2. The rest did not discuss the merits of the building and successful solutions, but explained why it happened.
house 2 not only did not find common language with nearby buildings, he did not find harmony with himself. The right side of the protrusion of the puck resembles the Kazan railway station, the left side is dotted with numerous windows of various styles. Rus' with Gothic, palace portal and a column with a pedestal. For some reason, the portal is duplicated, and the empty pedestal suggests Tseretelli. A statue of his work would adequately complete House 2.
numerous windows of various styles - a symbol of multiple realities. Column with an "ear" facing the sky. The double portal is a door in front of you, but if you raise your head, you will see another one. All this can be understood as the ideas of the Kalyagin theater.
House 2 San Sanych
That's just, there is no San Sanych in the list of architects, and if someday House 2 becomes calling card Moscow, as the Eiffel Tower has become a symbol of Paris, then glory will not go to him.

House of Gerasimov
Moscow, Bobrov lane, 6, building 1

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The building was built in 1895 according to the design of the architect Adolf Nikolaevich Knabe. On the territory of the estate of the noble family of Petrovo-Solovovo. Currently, the building is occupied by the city's oldest public free library-reading room named after I.S. Turgenev.
At the heart of the building at Bobrov Lane, 6 C1 Chamber XVII.
The house was renovated in 2004.
At the beginning of the XIX century. in this place was the estate of the merchant Vasily Gerasimov with a two-story stone house, the main facade overlooking the alley. In 1822, it passed into the possession of the merchant Kirill Biryukov, and then - to his relative Anna Alexandrovna Valeryanova - the wife of state councilor Konstantin Nikolayevich Valeryanov, a survey engineer, a member of the Society for Assistance to Students of the Survey Institute.
The houses were restored in 1996-2004. Buildings 1 and 2 were handed over to the Library-reading room of I.S. Turgenev.

Moscow, Sretensky Boulevard, 6/1s1

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The complex of buildings of the former insurance company "Russia" (1899-1902, architect N. M. Proskurnin, with the participation of V. A. Velichkin, forged fence - architect O. V. Dessin). After 1917, the building was successively occupied by ROSTA, the Main Artillery Directorate of the Red Army, Narkompros. The building is an object cultural heritage federal significance. The architect V. E. Dubovskoy lived in the house. Previously, on the site of the building there was a panorama built in 1875 by the architect V. N. Karneev.

Profitable house of the Church of the Trinity on Gryazakh
Moscow, Chistoprudny Boulevard, 14с3

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Built in 1908-1909. designed by architect L.L. Kravetsky (development of the plan) and civil engineer P.K. Mikini (Chistoprudny Boulevard, 14). The planes of the walls of the second - fourth floors are completely covered with terracotta bas-reliefs of fantastic animals, birds and trees, made by the art artel "Murava" according to the sketches of the artist S.I. Vashkov. The bas-reliefs of the Dmitrievsky Cathedral in Vladimir served as models.
House number 14 on Chistoprudny Boulevard is very interesting - tenement house Church of the Trinity on Gryazeh, popularly known as the "house with animals." It was built according to the project of L.L. Kravetsky and P.K. Mikini in 1908-1909. The building is decorated with fabulous animals by S.I. Vashkov in the style of the bas-reliefs of the Demetrius Cathedral in the city of Vladimir. At the same time, Sergey Vashkov was engaged not only in the external design of the house, but also in the interior. He himself settled in the same house, where he died in November 1914.
Initially, the house was four-storey with two hipped towers along the edges, and in the post-war years it was built up to the current 7 floors by the architect B.L. Topaz. It was a widespread post-war practice. animals, for the most part, have been preserved.
Now the entire lower floor of the apartment building of the Trinity Church on Gryazakh is occupied by the Marine Aquarium at Chistye Prudy store and the Oceanarium Museum. highlight " marine aquarium» can be considered a circular 25-meter panoramic aquarium "Batiscaphe", in which 10 sharks swim and a shark and moray eel feeding show is regularly held.
And the Church of the Trinity on Gryazakh is located nearby, at the Intercession Gates. The planes of the walls of the second - fourth floors are completely covered with terracotta bas-reliefs of fantastic animals, birds and trees. The bas-reliefs were made by the art artel "Murava" according to the sketches of the artist S.I. Vashkov. He was engaged not only in the external design of the house, but also in the design of its internal interiors. Then he himself settled in the same house and lived in it until his death.
Initially, the house was four-story, with two hipped towers. But in 1945 it was built on with three floors according to the project of the architect B.L. Topaz. At the same time, the balconies of the second floor and the tower were destroyed. True, the house has become more harmonious: the upper part of the house has balanced the lower floors saturated with decor.

We continue our cycle of walks along the Boulevard Ring. Today we will walk along Chistoprudny, Pokrovsky and Yauzsky boulevards, get acquainted with their sights and history.

We will see the monument to A.S. Griboyedov, the Church of the Archangel Gabriel, the monument to Abai Kunanbaev and much more, we will visit Chisty Pond, surrounded by a picturesque park, and find out why a tram, marked not by a number, but by the letter "A" runs along the Boulevard Ring to this day.

We leave at the station"Clean Ponds".

If the metro clearly follow the signs "To Chistoprudny Boulevard", then we will find ourselves on Myasnitsky Gate Square, from which it starts.

Chistoprudny Boulevard begins with the monument to A.S. Griboyedov, an outstanding Russian diplomat and playwright, author of the immortal play Woe from Wit.

The pedestal of the monument is decorated with bas-reliefs depicting Chatsky, Famusov, Molchanov and other heroes of the play.

Behind the monument we have a view of Chistoprudny Boulevard.

But here it is worth making a reservation: since we are interested not only in the sights of the boulevard itself, but also in its environs, and the pedestrian part of the boulevard is fenced off from the carriageway by a cast-iron fence, we will move both along the pedestrian part and along the right and left sidewalks, in right places crossing the road.

Let's start on the even side. Two-storey beige building with pointed turrets (house number 4) - a monument 19th architecture century.

A dome is visible above its roof Orthodox Church. To inspect it, after house number 4 we turn into Arkhangelsky lane. The temple that opens before our eyes, the Church of the Archangel Gabriel, an architectural monument of the early 18th century.

This church is the only one in Moscow, made in the form of a tower. In the 18th century, it bore the unofficial name "Menshikov Tower" (since it was built by order of Prince Menshikov). There is even a plaque on the facade of the building, on which the name of the Temple is indicated: "The Church of the Archangel Gabriel. Menshikov Tower.

Now the tower has four floors. Initially, it was five-story, and above the fifth floor there was a spire with a clock and the figure of the Archangel Gabriel. At that time, the Menshikov Tower was the tallest church in Moscow, it was 3 meters higher than the Bell Tower of John of the Ladder (Ivan the Great) in the Moscow Kremlin.

But in 1723 lightning struck the spire of the tower, the wooden fifth floor burned down, the spire collapsed. Rumors immediately spread among the people that this was a heavenly punishment to the prince, for allegedly placing himself above the king.

But the Most Serene was no longer up to it. At that time, he was already the governor of St. Petersburg, and all his Moscow projects did not care much for him. G.Z., who lived in the neighborhood, undertook to restore the half-burnt church. Izmailov, a member of the Masonic lodge. For some time the church was used for meetings of Masons, even new bas-reliefs with Masonic symbols appeared on the facades (erased at the behest of Metropolitan Filaret in 1860).

Near the tower at the beginning of the XIX century was built. Such a close proximity of two independent temples was explained by the fact that the high Menshikov tower in winter time it was very difficult to heat, and it was very difficult for both parishioners and clergymen at prayer services. And the Church of Theodore Stratilates was made very warm, so it began to play the role of a winter parish, and the Church of the Archangel Gabriel - a summer one.

I must say that from an architectural point of view, the combination of these two church buildings looks quite harmonious. Not every passer-by will guess that these are two different temples.

Remarkable fact: in architecture Orthodox churches As a rule, the bell tower is the tallest building. In this case, it turned out the other way around: the role of the belfry is played by the Church of Theodore Stratilat. There are no bells on the Menshikov Tower (they were there before the fire described above, but during the reconstruction it was decided not to restore the bell tower).

We return to the boulevard. The next noteworthy building, house number 10, is the Kashkin-Durasova Estate, an architectural monument of the 19th century.

On the pedestrian crossing we will cross to the other side in order to be on the pedestrian part of the boulevard. Passing through the tram tracks, it should be recalled that a rather remarkable tram runs in the Chistye Prudy area - the Annushka tavern on wheels. Having paid 100 rubles, you can make an original tram tour, and at the same time have a snack or a drink. And on Fridays and Saturdays, "Annushka" goes on a two-hour tour around Moscow. The beginning of the route is at the Chistye Prudy station.

The very name "Annushka" came from the fact that until quite recently in the speech of Muscovites one could often hear "Ring A" (Boulevard Ring) and "Ring B" (Garden Ring). To this day, a tram runs along the Boulevard Ring, designated not by a number, but by the letter "A". Hence the name of the tram-tavern "Annushka".

On the boulevard summer time often hosts various exhibitions of paintings and photographs.

After walking a little more, we see the next monument. The venerable old man, sitting in the pose of a thinker, is Abai Kunanbayev, an outstanding Kazakh poet, the founder of Kazakh writing. The site around the monument is lined with white stone and surrounded by a granite semicircle, the inscription on which reads "The creator of the immortal word is eternal."

Here it is worth saying a few words about the origin of the pond and its name. Where Chistoprudny Boulevard now runs, for a long time there were various slaughterhouses and malls selling meat (it is no coincidence that the name of one of the streets adjacent to the boulevard is Myasnitskaya). And in the swamp, which was located on the site of the current pond, all waste from slaughterhouses and butcher shops was dumped. That is why the swamp was called the "Bad Pond".

At the beginning of the 18th century, a significant area in this area was bought by Prince Menshikov (that is why the Menshikov Tower was built here). He ordered the slaughterhouses to be moved to another place, and the pond to be cleaned and ennobled. In contrast to the old name, it received the name "Clean Pond". The name of the area "Chistye Prudy" was commonplace, since there was always only one pond here. But it took root so much that it has come down to our days in this form - in the plural.

Now the neighborhood of Chisty Pond is a favorite place for Muscovites to meet, date and walk. One of the few restaurants in the city on the water "Shater" is founded on the pond, catamaran rental is organized, and sometimes you can even ride a gondola.

Opposite the pond, on the odd side of the boulevard (house number 19), is the building of the theater "Sovremennik".

Now the Library named after F.M. Dostoevsky.

Having reached the end of the pond, we will pass to the even side of the boulevard. House No. 14, Profitable building of the Church of the Trinity on Gryazy, built in the early 20th century, a monument of the late, "national", modernist style. It is interesting not only from an architectural, but also from an artistic point of view. The facade of the first four floors (the top three floors were built on much later) is decorated with frescoes depicting fabulous animals by the artist S.I. Vashkov.

The building at the end of the boulevard is the former hotel "At the Pokrovsky Gates"

Today, the building, unfortunately, is in a very dilapidated state.

Having rounded the building of the former hotel, we find ourselves on Pokrovsky Gate Square. For many, this name is associated with the Soviet film of the same name. The house, in one of the communal apartments where the characters of the film live, was located somewhere here. According to the plot, at the end of the film, this house is being demolished, so it is not known which house director Mikhail Kozakov had in mind.

Before moving towards Pokrovsky Boulevard, turn left onto Pokrovka Street. House No. 22, a three-story turquoise building - the Apraksin-Trubetskoy Estate, an architectural monument of the 18th century.

A memorial plaque on the facade informs us that A.S. Pushkin.

Church domes rise above the roofs of Pokrovka houses, so we are heading there. In a small Barashevsky lane is the Church of the Entry into the Temple of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Barashy.

Nearby is a building that bears little resemblance to an Orthodox church.

Before the revolution, there was the Church of the Resurrection of Christ in Barashi. In the 1930s, the bell tower of the temple was destroyed, the domes were demolished, and the iconostasis was liquidated.

Now the building of the former church is occupied by one of the divisions of the Moscow police department. The Russian Orthodox Church has repeatedly tried to return the Temple to the parishioners, the police authorities also do not mind vacating the building, but for this it is necessary to find a suitable room for moving. Unfortunately, this has not yet been possible.

In a small square paved with stone slabs, a monument to N.G. Chernyshevsky, writer and revolutionary philosopher, author famous novel"What to do?"

Passing the Pokrovsky Gates Square, turn left and turn into Khokhlovsky Lane. Here we will see the Church of the Life-Giving Trinity in Khokhly, an architectural monument of the 17th century.

We return to Pokrovsky Boulevard. On the odd side is the largest building of the boulevard (more than 100 meters long) - Pokrovsky barracks (house No. 3).

The barracks were built at the beginning of the 19th century by decree of Emperor Paul I. In front of the barracks, on the spot where the boulevard now runs, there was a parade ground. It is noteworthy that the building was used as barracks until 1960, after the revolution it was renamed Dzerzhinsky.

Let's go to the even side. Opposite the Pokrovsky barracks is house number 10 with the adjoining Milyutinsky garden. The building is Child Center aesthetic education, and the garden is a favorite resting place for residents of the surrounding area. The park is equipped with several playgrounds, a sports ground for playing basketball or football, along the paths of the garden there are benches for relaxing and unhurried conversations.

The garden is very well maintained and cozy. For example, you rarely see a fruit-bearing apple tree in the center of Moscow.

After walking around the garden, we return to the boulevard and go to the odd side.

The building next to the Milyutinsky Garden (house No. 12C1), the House of Krestnikova built in the 19th century (rebuilt at the beginning of the 20th century), is now occupied by the Prosecutor's Office of the Central Administrative District.

these are buildings former estate Krestovnikovy buildings of the 19th century.

Let's go to the other side of the boulevard and turn into Maly Trekhsvyatitelsky Lane. Here is the Church of the Three Hierarchs in Kulish (the lane got its name from it).

Here it is worth saying a few words about the area of ​​Bolshoi and Maly Trekhsvyatitelsky lanes, Khitrovsky lane and other surrounding areas. At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, "Khitrovka" (as this area was then called) was far from being the most friendly corner of Moscow. "Khitrovka" was the center of the criminal world of the capital. Criminals of all stripes lived here, from the so-called "businessmen" to petty crooks, runaway convicts hid from the police, and ordinary beggars and the homeless were enough at Khitrovka.

Respectable citizens tried to bypass Khitrovka even during the day, and even being here at night meant being guaranteed to be left without a wallet, or even completely lose their lives. According to the descriptions of contemporaries, even the police tried to appear on Khitrovka as rarely as possible, raids in this area were very risky.

The most complete description of the life of "Khitrovka" can be found in the book by V.A. Gilyarovsky "Moscow and Muscovites". Unlike most residents of the city, Gilyarovsky was not afraid to visit Khitrovka, he was known here and accepted as "one of his own".

Later, playwrights K.K. Stanislavsky and V.I. Nemirovich-Danchenko with artist V.A. Simov, when they were preparing to stage a play based on Maxim Gorky's play "At the Bottom" (Gorky himself scooped "nature" in the slums Nizhny Novgorod). The production was a great success, largely due to the fact that its authors saw the "bottom" with their own eyes.

"Khitrovka" is often mentioned in Boris Akunin's detective stories.

Now only the name of Khitrovsky Lane reminds of that dangerous and unpleasant "Khitrovka".

Let's go back to the boulevard. House No. 11 - The Durasov House, an architectural monument of the 18th century, is considered one of the best works of mature classicism in Moscow at the end of the 18th century. Now it is shrouded in a construction grid, a major reconstruction is underway.

Let's go to the even side. House number 16, another architectural monument of the XIX century.

The building that ends the boulevard (house No. 18/15) - the Teleshev House (or the Karzinkin House) is known not only as an architectural monument of the 18th century, but also as a historical monument.

Initially, the house belonged to one of the branches of the Tolstoy Counts, then it was bought by the merchant Andrey Karzinkin. At the end of the 19th century, the artist Elena Karzinkina lived here with her husband, writer Nikolai Teleshev. In 1899-1916. the creative Moscow intelligentsia gathered here, as a result of which a literary association arose, called Teleshov's Wednesdays. Maxim Gorky, Ivan Bunin, Fyodor Chaliapin, Sergei Rachmaninov and many other famous artists repeatedly took part in Wednesdays.

Pokrovsky Boulevard ends, turning into Yauzsky.

The even side of Yauzsky Boulevard begins with a monumental post-constructivist building, typical of the 1930s.

The entrance to the building is decorated with two plaster figures - a miner and a collective farmer.

A man holds a jackhammer in one hand and a book in the other

and the woman is depicted with a rifle and a sheaf of wheat.

Apparently, this should symbolize the all-roundness of the Soviet people, who can do everything: work, get an education, and, if necessary, defend their country with weapons in their hands.

It should be noted that from the intersection with which Yauzsky Boulevard begins, quite a scenic view: in the distance we see the domes of the Moscow Kremlin, and skyscrapers behind them.

We are moving along the boulevard.

Its main attraction has recently been the monument to Rasul Gamzatov, an outstanding Soviet poet. The monument was erected quite recently, in the summer of 2013.

The monument is a full-length figure of the poet sitting on a chair, and the composition is completed by a granite stele, which depicts a flock of cranes and immortal lines written by Gamzatov:

"It seems to me sometimes that the soldiers,
From the bloody fields that did not come,
They didn’t fall into this land once,
And they turned into white cranes.

are architectural monuments of the XIX century.

House No. 13 - The Boldyrevs' Profitable House, an architectural monument in the Art Nouveau style of the early 20th century.

Part of the premises of this building is occupied by the Central Border Museum.

Having crossed to the other side of the boulevard, we turn into Petropavlovsky lane. At its beginning rises the Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul at the Yauza Gates, an architectural monument of the early 18th century (1700-1702).

This church is worth not only seeing from the outside, but also visiting its courtyard. Such a cozy arrangement of the church yard is rarely seen in Moscow. On the platform, paved with granite tiles, there is a rotunda with a small fountain in the form of an Orthodox cross, on both sides of it are plaster figures of praying women.

To the left of the rotunda, we see a wooden cross in memory of all those buried in the churchyard of the Peter and Paul Church.

Solyanka street.

After leaving the square and crossing the road, turn left. The seemingly inconspicuous building of house No. 14, however, is an architectural monument of the 18th century; the Institute of Obstetrics was located here, as a memorial plaque on the facade of the building says.

The next building is much more monumental. This is a classic example of the 19th century Russian Empire style.

Until 1917, the Moscow Board of Trustees was located here. Now it is occupied by the Academy of Medical Sciences.

A memorial plaque on the facade tells us that the outstanding scientist surgeon N.N. Burdenko.

After walking a little more, we will see two granite pylons with crowning them sculptural compositions. This is the Orphanage Gate. The sculptures on the pylons are called "Education" and "Mercy".

The Imperial Orphanage occupied a whole block between Solyanka and Moskvoretskaya embankment. The building itself is clearly visible from the embankment or from the Bolshoi Ustyinsky Bridge, but the gate, which in itself is an architectural monument, overlooks Solyanka.

On opposite side street we see the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary on Kulishki. Now it is "chained" in scaffolding, but by the elements that have already been restored, it is obvious that when the work is completed, it will look very beautiful.

At the entrance to the church there is a monument that reminds us of one of the tragic pages of our recent history. This is the Monument in memory of the victims of the tragedy in Beslan. Figures of defenseless children, scattered children's toys... everyone passing by must understand that this should never happen again.

It is also worth paying attention to the complex of houses (No. 1 p. 1 and No. 1 p. 2). Monumental gray buildings at the end of Solyanka occupy a whole block. At the beginning of the 20th century, they belonged to the Moscow Merchant Society and were used as tenement houses (that is, apartments in them were rented out). After the revolution, they were nationalized and since then they have been residential buildings.

Located right in front of us, next to the Church on Kulishki.

This completes our walk.

Historical and, frankly, atmospheric place for a walk in the center of Moscow - Chistye Prudy. A labyrinth of streets with old houses and signs on them with the names of people who were born, created masterpieces or simply stayed here for a while, form a kind of museum under open sky. So everything here is permeated with the spirit of history and creativity. Well, go ahead: we reach the Chistye Prudy metro station and here they are, protected spiritual places, stretching from Myasnitskaya to Pokrovskaya Square.

History of Chistye Prudy

There are several versions of the history of Chistye Prudy. A more well-known version is that in the 17th century there was a slaughterhouse in the area, and the sewage merged into local reservoirs, then there were three such ponds, called filthy ones. After the order of Peter I, these lands were granted to his favorite, Prince Menshikov. Part of the reservoirs, by order of the prince, was drained, and the largest of them was cleaned, at the same time a ban was imposed on water pollution. From that moment on, Chistye Prudy became historical name places, retaining in the name, as a tribute to the past, the plural form.

Today it is a walking area and a cultural and historical park. Chistoprudny Boulevard is a wide park alley for walks, which extends to the Chistye Prudy health-improving center, and behind this building, to Pokrovsky Gate Square, there is the pond itself. Bicycles can be rented to tour the nearby historical places or take a walk along the pond, feed the ducks living on it and admire the swans.

Cultural and historical places of the Chistye Prudy park

Let's go through the most iconic places favorite route for tour guides. Start park area Chistoprudny Boulevard begins at the monument to Griboyedov, the author of the classic work Woe from Wit. On the pedestal you can see a high relief depicting the heroes of comedy. The monument was created by sculptor Apollon Manuilov and installed in 1959 on the site of an abstract sculpture by Russian anarchist Mikhail Bunin. The latter was dismantled at the request of members of the public for an incomprehensible futuristic approach to its creation. Griboyedov himself lived for some time on Myasnitskaya Street, at number 42, where he completed the well-known comedy, and therefore the place was chosen logically.

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A walk along Chistoprudny Boulevard, on the left side will lead us to house 19. Historical building, created by the architect Roman Klein at the beginning of the 20th century in the neoclassical style, was the premises of the previously famous cinema "Coliseum". And in 1974, the building housed and now houses the Sovremennik Theater. One of the founders and the first artistic director of the theater was Oleg Efremov, who largely determined style feature theater - to talk with the audience about the eternal truths in the language of contemporary art.

Moving along Chistoprudny in the direction of the Pokrovsky Gates, geographically completing the Chistye Prudy district, you can go to the Church of the Trinity on Gryazakh, which is located on Pokrovka Street. Next to her is another architectural masterpiece- This is an apartment building that previously belonged to the church, built at the beginning of the 20th century. Its design is curious: bas-reliefs on the levels from the 2nd to the 4th floor depicting fantastic animals, birds and trees. Designed by S. Vashkov and P. Mikini. Thanks to these images, the building received the name "House with animals." The upper floors were added in 1945, so the building looks fragmentary unfinished. Partially, this house is visible in the frames of the film "The meeting place cannot be changed."

"House with animals" is adjacent to the modern cinema "Rolan", located in the house number 12. It bears the name of the talented actor Rolan Bykov. Previously, the Borodino Panorama was located here, now it has been moved to Kutuzovsky Prospekt.

Further - along Chistoprudny we go to Arkhangelsky Lane, turning onto which we will see the Menshikov Tower. Alexander Menshikov, “a childless minion of happiness,” ordered the construction of a huge stone church near his farmstead on the site of a dilapidated church. The construction of this building was carried out with the participation of Italian architects. The temple tower, built in the Baroque style, surpassed the Ivan the Great Bell Tower in height. But the “semi-powerful ruler,” as Pushkin called Menshikov, did not calm down on this. Alexander Danilovich bought a chiming clock in London for a fabulous sum, which they installed on the temple. The clock chimed the hour, half an hour and a quarter - which was not the case on the Kremlin's Spasskaya Tower. The celebration was complete, but short-lived. Lightning cut down the spire, and the clock - their age turned out to be short - was dismantled and brought to the Cannon Yard.

Modernity of Chistye Prudy Park

A walk along Chistoprudny Boulevard is not only historical monuments and tribute to the past. This is an active recreation area that attracts different generations and representatives of cultures to the alleys. Representatives of the modern underground like to gather here. "At Griboyedov's" is a favorite place for romantic meetings. Both native Muscovites and guests of the capital want to come here to see with their own eyes the stories inspired by the touching melody performed by Igor Talkov, illustrations by masters of painting and works of art.