Tretya Gora: a street of philistine squatters, shady gardens and a sanatorium for the nervously ill. Where else is there something like this? Thousand Islands Archipelago, Canada

Man is subject to everything, even taming wildlife. Challenging it, people build cities on rocks and mountain slopes, in fact, cities that are fantastic in their beauty, looking at which are breathtaking.
They look like illustrations for fairy tales and look unrealistic and charming. How you want to see this beauty for real, and you can do it right now!

1. Rocamadour, city in France

deep valley of the Alzu River, resembling a canyon, is located picturesque town Rocamadour attracts merchants, pilgrims and guests from all over the world. This village is seen as something transcendent and incredible. Seeing it live, I want to ask the question: “Who could have thought of settling on a sheer cliff almost nine centuries ago?” The village was built on rock stupas and it seems that it is located vertically. There are only two streets here, and you can walk uphill along the long, rather steep stairs, looking at the quaint “toy” houses, buildings, chapels and old churches. In the chapel of Notre-Dame-de-Puy, the Black Madonna is kept, and the relics of St. Amadour are buried.
Locals say that the relics periodically perform miracles and at this moment the bell starts to ring. Rocamadour Castle rises at the very top of the rock, and a large staircase leads to it, passing between 14 intermediate platforms, symbolizing the fourteen stops of Jesus Christ going to the crucifixion. At the very top, where the staircase leads, the Calvary Cross was built, and according to tradition, pilgrims go here, who make their entire difficult journey on their knees, stopping at each platform for prayer.

2. Azeñas do Mar, city in Portugal

Azenhas do Mar is a city on the rocks, located on the picturesque sea coast of the Lisbon region, stands for "sea mill". Many years ago, there was an Arab occupation here - it was then that the history of this city, riddled with antiquity, began. At that time, the water mills "Azenyash" appeared, and the city was given its current name. Azenhas do Mar is spread out on a rock, washed by the waves of the ocean below, and at first glance it may seem that the city is built into the rock.
It seems that some houses are balancing on the edge of the abyss, and a little more, and will collapse into the ocean. Tourists are attracted not only by the boundless beaches with the purest water, but also pools created in the rock by nature itself. In the thirties, a tram line was opened here, and a string of tourists flowed here. Here you need to enjoy magnificent views and the famous red wine Culares in Portugal. There are vineyards in this city, and in order for a seedling to take root in a sand post, it has to be buried to a depth of 10 meters.

3. Ronda city in Spain

Everyone knows that Andalusia is one of the most colorful and vibrant areas in Spain. Experienced tourists rent a car and go to independent travel away from traditional routes in search of something new and amazing. Here, high in the mountains, literally "floats" over the El Tajo Gorge most beautiful city Rhonda. Romans, Celts, Phoenicians and Arabs left their rich historical heritage in this ancient settlement. At first glance, absolutely everything admires here: a frightening concentration of sights and incredible landscapes that take your breath away. And all this splendor is located on an area of ​​481 sq. km.
Ronda is a city of "white houses", where you can enjoy magnificent views from almost anywhere. This city is the birthplace of bullfighting, and here you can see the oldest bullring in Spain, which was built in 1784. The famous Pedro Romero, the founder of modern bullfighting, performed in this arena and, according to the inhabitants, he has 5,600 dead bulls on his account. In this city, stereotypes are erased, and an awareness of the traditions, the depth of the culture of Spain, the way of life of many generations of real Andalusians comes. Be sure to visit the arena, the museum of bullfighting and bullfighters to "taste" the spirit of real Spain.

The visiting card of Ronda is the famous New Bridge, built in the very deep place gorge (98 meters), and the narrowest. Construction took 37 years. Ronda is fraught with a mixture of cultures and traditions of many peoples. This is a city that does not obey logic, but at the same time, alluring, mystical, soaring like a bird over the abyss. Small private museums, cozy antiques shops - here tourists full chest feel the local color.

4. City of Piodan, Portugal

Piodan is a region in Portugal, a village with an ancient history that fits perfectly into the landscape highlands the Serra do Azor range. This place with marvelous landscapes, pastures, sources with spring water resembles a Christmas picture, and when the lights are lit in the village in the evening, these mountain slopes show an amazingly beautiful picture. There is an abundance of slate, which has become the main material for the construction of houses in this mountain village, which is pierced by narrow winding streets.
It seems that everything around is made in the same color - the streets are paved with slate, houses are built from it, although windows and doors painted in bright blue are striking everywhere. This is a tradition and an original feature of a mountain village, with which many interesting stories. The building material is dark in color, so the houses here are also brown. For a long time this place has served as a safe haven for those who fled from justice. According to some reports, one of the murderers of his beloved Pedro I took refuge here from the royal wrath in the 14th century.

5. Italy, the city of Riomaggiore

This bright, unusually beautiful Riomaggiore - a town on the rocks, shimmering in the sun with multi-colored colors, is comfortably located on an elevated rocky coast in the territory of the Five Lands Park. Here, in every narrow street winding among the houses built one above the other on the cliffs to the sea coastal rocks, there is an atmosphere of medieval antiquity. During numerous wars the village was impregnable fortress for enemies, since the houses here were built according to a stepped system, and it was almost impossible to capture them. But today this makes living for people a little dangerous, since there is still a chance of falling off a cliff and crippling yourself.
The oldest building dates back to the 13th century. Many stone stairs, winding streets give the city on a rock a unique flavor, where the facades of different colors create a striking contrast with the blue Mediterranean sky and the emerald-turquoise sea. The movement of cars here is difficult and has long been completely prohibited. You will walk around the city along narrow streets and stairs, smoothly climbing steep rocky slopes. In the world-famous restaurants of the town you will enjoy classic Italian cuisine and seafood. If you decide to have an unforgettable wedding, then Riomaggiore is your city of dreams! In such romantic place you can easily choose a cafe for a wedding with a stunning view, or a small restaurant for a romantic dinner.

6. Castelfulit de la Roca in Spain

Man sometimes builds truly incredible cities, choosing a place that looks completely uninhabitable. Imagine a sheer cliff 50 meters high of basalt origin, the length of which is almost a kilometer. Only a single narrow street can fit on it, along which houses are built on both sides. The street ends almost at the edge of the plateau. Imagine this is most of of Castelfulit de da Roca, an amazing Catalan town with an incredible charm, where only 1000 people live. Many houses in the old city, located on the very edge of a basalt rock formed from two colliding lava flows, are built from volcanic rocks.
Buildings are located along a narrow fishing rod, like two snakes crawling side by side. The city is a natural attraction of the region, towering above the surrounding landscape, and medieval houses are still standing, retaining their grandeur and strength, because the building material was the volcanic rock itself! On both sides of the rocky hill there are sheer cliffs washed by two rivers, on the banks of which the inhabitants have planted pretty kitchen gardens. The settlement is located in volcanic area, on the territory of which there are about 70 volcanoes. Today, some of them still spewing mud and ash. But what a view from the windows!

7. Italy, the ancient city of Manarola

Part national park Chikve Terre includes five small towns, among which the oldest is Manarola. Tourists are attracted by colorful bright buildings, and modern buildings perfectly coexist with old ones. architectural structures which are over 500 years old.
This seaside fishing town in Liguria is perched on a cliff overlooking a wild sea coastline. There is a church here, built back in 1338, vineyards grow, which give excellent wines. The small harbor of Manarola complements the picturesque picture of multi-colored houses. These houses on the very seashore are erected above the gorge on the rocky slopes. The absence of a beach does not prevent divers from exploring caves, undersea world and rock crevices.

8. Ancient city Wadi Davan, in Yemen

In the desert country of Yemen, located in the south Arabian Peninsula Wadi Davan is located on high dry mountains with uneven peaks and numerous plateaus. There are no permanent rivers in the country, but in regions located high in the mountains, there are seasonal river valleys, which are called "wadis". The houses here are built of clay bricks with several floors, and the floors are made of wood.
Wadi Davan is an impressive place in its splendor, and at first glance every tourist is breathtaking. Numerous cities and villages here are much better preserved than in other regions of Yemen. Among the clay houses of sandy color, anyone will be surprised by a multi-colored multi-storey building, and each village of Wadi Davan will open something new and extraordinary to the tourist. But not everyone will dare to visit here - in recent decades, Yemen has been a hot zone for terrorists.

9. Small town of Vernazza, Italy

IN Italian province Spice is small town on the rocks of Vernazza, where a peaceful atmosphere of calmness and sweet bliss always reigns. A small picturesque bay is surrounded by majestic rocks, where multi-colored houses, closely clinging to each other, look into the sea distance. Tourists claim that it is Vernazza that personifies a cheerful, vibrant Italy, filled with romance - the one that they wanted to see. There are many ancient architectural structures, which perfectly "get along" with the modern buildings of Vernazza.
But the picture of universal integrity and harmony only enhances the stunning impression of the surroundings. In that quiet town less than a thousand people live, so here you will find peace and tranquility. There are no cars in the city, so you will not find such clean air anywhere else in Italy. They come here not for beach holiday, but for the clean ecology of nature and architectural sights. Vernazza is part of the five cities that make up the Cinque Terre National Park, where menacing cliffs, bright houses and the azure sea will forever leave the best impressions.

10. Monasteries on the rocks of Meteora, Greece

One of the most striking sights of Greece are the monasteries of Meteora, "crashed" into sheer cliffs. The name Meteora itself translates as "hanging" in the air. Exactly this exact description six amazing monasteries in Greece. Back in the 11th century, hermits from Byzantium climbed a sheer cliff to be alone with God, and real monasteries were built already in the 14th-15th centuries. The natural safety from the invasion of enemies and the greatness of this place made it possible to create a large monastic community, where to this day you can see with your own eyes 6 monasteries on the tops of the cliffs of Thessaly.
This geological phenomenon in the northern part of Greece is surprising in that 60 million years ago, under the influence of winds, water and temperature changes, massive stone pillars began to appear, as if hanging in the air among the clouds. Even modern climbers do not risk climbing almost sheer round rocks, although, raising their heads up, one can see a temple on top of almost all the pillars. It is difficult to even imagine what a colossal work was invested in the construction of these temples and monasteries in such extreme conditions.

11. The capital of Bolivia is the mountainous city of La Paz

La Paz is the highest capital city in the world, which is the commercial and political center Bolivia. The city center is located at an altitude of 3650 meters, and international Airport- 4082 meters. La Paz is called the beating heart of Bolivia, and this place is unique in that it is located in a huge "cup" of the riverbed that dried up millions of years ago. For almost 500 years, the city of La Paz has been steadily creeping up the slopes of the canyon. It seems that the city wants to look beyond the sharp edges of the canyon in order to enjoy the purest air of the Andes and look at the fluffy clouds reflected in the motionless surface of Lake Titicaca. In this discouraging city, you need to take a leisurely stroll through the squares paved with stone slabs.
Among the majestic cathedrals and buildings of the Spanish era, you can meet peasant women in bright woolen robes and national bowlers. The high-altitude location of the capital will tire even experienced tourists, so it is better to choose walking routes to the central part of the city. There are many in the city interesting museums where you can get acquainted with the culture of the country. The area around the capital is also called "Little Bolivia" because of its diversity. magnificent landscapes. The famous "Moon Valley" Valle de la Luna is a kind of labyrinth of rocky turrets, picturesque rocks and small canyons.

12. City on the rocks of Pitigliano, Italy

The cities built on sheer cliffs amaze with the contrast between the creation of man and nature itself. For a variety of reasons, people settled here, but in most cases these were security measures and protection from the enemy. Pitigliano is a small Etruscan town in Tuscany, located on a high hill, whose height is 300-663 meters above sea level. Rocks surround this city on three sides, which the Etruscans made impregnable for enemies. This interesting town, located in the tuff zone, rises on a plateau formed by 3 rivers.
Pouf - rock, which is formed from volcanic ash, so Patigliano is one of the most beautiful places in Italy that attracts tourists. This unique city Tuscany is filled with palaces, towers, various medieval monuments, and when you walk along the narrow streets, you understand that everything here is shrouded in an indescribable atmosphere. Patigliano is also known as little Jerusalem - there is a synagogue here, and many Jews live here who managed to survive during the war years.

13. City on Mont Saint-Michel, France

The castle of Mont Saint-Michel is one of the most popular attractions in France, which captivates with its fabulous view and unusualness. After all, this is a monastery erected in a rock, sticking out of the abyss sea ​​water looks truly stunning and magnetic. At the top of the cliff, whose height is about 80 meters, the walls of the ancient abbey rest against the sky. At a height of 155.5 meters above sea level, a spire rises, at the end of which stands a golden figure of an archangel with a sword.
The castle of Mont Saint-Michel is protected on all sides by the sea, and a dam leads to the mainland. Victor Hugo was here, and, impressed by what he saw, he called this place "Pyramid in the Ocean." Only one street leads inland to the island, on both sides of which toy houses dating back to the 15th-16th centuries huddle together. Many amazing legends are associated with this place, so it’s better to see this place yourself and solve the mysteries of the island. Moreover, twice a year this place becomes an island, and during high tides the water rises by 10 meters. The most dangerous scoundrels and criminals lived in the castle for half a century, and people call it the “provincial Bastille”.

14. Greece, Santorini town on mountain slopes

Santorini is a beautiful, mysterious place with many legends associated with its name. Some call it Pompeii Aegean Sea, other - lost Atlantis, but numerous tourists recognized this island as the most romantic. The wonderful Santorini archipelago, consisting of 5 islands, appeared 3500 years ago as a result of a volcanic explosion.
This enchanting island, due to its unique geography, is unlike any other place on Earth. He is famous unique architecture and beaches with colored sand due to the volcanic properties of the soil. The city itself is located on a place with a special geological structure, due to volcanic activity - this is its distinctive feature. On a steep coastline snow-white houses rise above each other, where, being in the interweaving of arches, quarters and streets, it is easy to get lost. In the picturesque town of Santorini, history buffs are advised to visit the local museums: the Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Prehistoric Thera. What is not here: business centers, sanctuaries, theaters, the ruins of ancient buildings, houses and graves of different eras, hot springs.

Discussions are underway in Kazan on the development of the territory bounded by Tikhomirnov, Vishnevsky and Kalinin streets, known as the Tretya Gora. So, on Tuesday, a presentation of student work on the design of this section took place at KSUAE with the participation of the Assistant to the President of Tatarstan Olesya Baltusova. Realnoe Vremya's columnist, local historian Lev Zharzhevsky, in his new column, written specifically for our online newspaper, tells what is remarkable about the Tretyaya Gora, as well as the nearby streets.

Everything changes, the city also changes, houses disappear, and sometimes even streets. That area of ​​Kazan, which will be discussed, has completely changed. And the purpose of these notes is to remind those who lived on the Third and Second Mountains and on Kirpichno-Zavodskaya Street.

Inhabitants of the Third Mountain

My interest in the streets known as the First, Second and Third Mountains did not appear immediately.

At first it was just curiosity. It intensified when the late mother said that our house was on the Third Mountain. Then an old friend of my mother showed me this house on the ground, and a note from the Kazan Telegraph arrived in time, where my great-grandmother Feodosia Khristoforovna Zakrzhevskaya was sharply condemned for her harsh treatment of a servant girl.

A little later, archival documents were found relating to her house on the Third Mountain - so the Third, and behind it the rest of the Mountains, became the subject of my special interest, which naturally spread to the nearest Kirpichno-Zavodskaya, Muratovskaya and all kinds of Soldier streets.

Third mountain. House of Theodosia Zakrzhevskaya

I will not write about the ancient history of this region: the reader can find relevant information in the works of other authors. And we will trace the history of the development of this area and, if necessary, briefly get acquainted with those who lived here.

So, back in the 1860s, houses of Kazan inhabitants began to appear here. For the most part, it was the most self-built; even in the 1880s, the Kazan Exchange List wrote about the inconsistency of the development of the area of ​​the First, Second and Third Mountains with the building charter. Address books and address calendars give an idea of ​​the owners of buildings, either climbing up all three Mountains, or hiding in deep ravines between them. By the way, some streets in this part of the city were called like that: for example, the ravine between the First and Second Mountains.

Both (first and second) editions of Ivan Ivanov's "Reference book of the city of Kazan" can serve as reference sources for analyzing the class composition of residents - this book was published in 1894 and 1895 almost immediately after the city Duma's decision to streamline the numbering of houses, and in it, along with the owners for the first time in Kazan practice, their numbers are also indicated. Out of almost a hundred (there are gaps in the book) of the houses on the Third Mountain indicated in the book, the overwhelming majority belong to the townspeople. They are followed by persons of the peasant class, officials and merchants, with the last two classes being represented by units of homeowners.

Gradually the situation is changing. In the Address Book of Kazan, published in 1906, the number of merchants and officials increased, and even more of them, according to the list of homeowners from the reference book All Kazan, published in 1910. The mentioned book speaks of the house of Agafya Timofeevna Polyanina on the Third Mountain. This house, built in the style of a rough wooden Art Nouveau, stood on Kalinina Street at number 25 back in the early 1990s. Actually, the house was built by Alexei Prokopyevich Polyanin, a wealthy merchant who had another house on Petropavlovskaya Street, in the city center. But according to the merchant custom of those years, real estate was often registered in the name of the wife: financial fortunes are changeable, and in the event of ruin, the wife’s property was not foreclosed.

Third mountain. On the left is Polyanin's house No. 25

In the courtyard of the house there was an outbuilding, the exterior decoration of which skillfully imitated stone building. In fact, the wing was a two-story wooden building that retained signs of its former accomplishment. It was to this wing that my friend and I approached during the next tour of Kazan courtyards in the fall of 1984. After taking a few pictures, we talked with the residents in an attempt to find out something about the house. The amiable inhabitants of the wing recommended to us an old woman who, according to them, knew everything. And she really knew a lot and told interesting things.

So we learned that Vladimir Alekseevich Polyanin, a well-known geologist and professor at Kazan University, who was still alive at that time, was the son of that same Alexei Prokopyevich. Later, in a telephone conversation, the old geologist spoke about how they did not want to accept him at the university - after all, he was of merchant origin.

Before we said goodbye to the kind narrator, we asked her name - after all, it was necessary to refer to at least an oral, but still a source. The old woman answered - Halima Ibragimovna. We began to insist on surnames. Then she, as it seemed to us, said without much readiness: Keshner.

I was somewhat dumbfounded by the unusual combination, and then carefully clarified: one of those Keshners? The old woman smiled and answered: one of those, one of those. There was no question of leaving. Halima Ibragimovna's story was so interesting that when I got home, I immediately wrote it down and now I reproach myself for the fact that two sheets from the record have disappeared somewhere. But even without them, the story is captivating.

Well, when could I assume that this old woman from the Third Mountain is, if not related, then in property with David Jensen, the author of the very sculpture of the goddess Hygiea that stands in front of the clinic of Baronet Willie in St. academies are rubbed to a breathtaking shine of the chest?

Here lived before moving to Aivazovsky, 19 an outstanding heat power engineer, the future academician Vyacheslav Evgenievich Alemasov

House number 15 stood below the Polyaninsky house. Before moving to Aivazovsky Street, an outstanding heat power engineer, the future academician Vyacheslav Evgenievich Alemasov, lived here. Here it is appropriate to emphasize that he is a real academician, and not a member of those academies that have been breeding at the speed of rabbits in recent times.

In the same area lived another outstanding scientist - classical physiologist Sergei Petrovich Shestakov. Doctor of Greek Literature, Councilor of State, Ordinary Professor of Kazan University in the Department of Greek Language and Literature, Secretary of the Faculty of History and Philology, teacher of higher courses for women, member of the Board of Trustees of the Kazan Educational District - all this bunch of titles and positions belonged to Sergei Petrovich, who first lived in the house Solovyov on the First Mountain, and then built his own wooden house, unusually elongated in length, along the already non-existent One-Storonka of the Third Mountain.

Before the First World War, the Third Mountain turned into a relatively well-maintained street, the main advantage of which was the shady gardens in most households. It was this circumstance, combined with the absence of dust, this scourge of Kazan, that was probably taken into account by Dr. Klyachkin, the owner of the hospital on Voznesenskaya (now Ostrovsky Street), when choosing a place for a small sanatorium for the nervously ill.

The “Address-calendar for 1915” says that the houses of several retired generals appeared on Tretya Gora, and their excellencies, even retired ones, did not settle anywhere. Green and cozy, the Third Mountain remained even after the revolution. After the municipalization of the houses, their de-municipalization followed, but even the houses that remained under the jurisdiction of the JAKTs retained large gardens in the yards for a long time.

House 56 in the harsh war years gave shelter to A.F. Plate, an outstanding Soviet organic chemist

On the even side of the street, house 28 was personally dear to me - it was owned by a strict great-grandmother. I even managed to find those who rented rooms in her two-story house and trace the fates, sometimes tragic, of some of the residents. For everyone else, the most interesting, most likely, would be house 56. This building in the harsh war years gave shelter to A.F. Plate, an outstanding Soviet organic chemist and a very decent person: the memoirs of Alfred Feliksovich cannot be read without a feeling of deep respect.

Another scientist, physical chemist, future academician and Hero of Socialist Labor, Nikolai Markovich Emanuel, also lived here during the evacuation.

Nikolai Markovich Emanuel lived here during the evacuation

Seven houses from "our" house stood the house of Emma Melchiorovna Ram, in the marriage of Strange. Yes, Strange is the same émigré colonel whose son, a future famous historian, was an agent of the NKVD. From him, the thread leads to Marina Tsvetaeva's friend Sergei Efron. Well, Emma Ram's niece, Valeria or Lery, will become a Siamese princess for a while. However, I've gone off topic quite a bit. These houses no longer exist, time is inexorable.

The Second Mountain - the missing pearl of Kazan

The Second Mountain is closer to the center of the city than the Third, and since 1906 a tram, descending at great risk from Universitetskaya and then climbing steeply along Novo-Gorshechnaya, connected it to the Kremlin.

Since the seventies of the century before last, the building of the Women's Teacher's Seminary has been standing on the Second Mountain, and in 1915 it was decorated with the Psychiatric Clinic of the University. Before the First World War, the street was already a wonderful corner of Kazan: beautiful, mostly two-story houses delight the eye with a variety of facades, all houses have running water (Third Mountain could not boast of this), and others, not excluding wooden ones, had baths .

Second mountain. Church of Cyril and Methodius, women's teacher's seminary on the right

A decent public lives on the street: merchants, doctors, priests, officials. Of course, there are philistine homeowners, but there are no peasant homeowners at all. One of the spacious two-story houses belonged to the land surveyor of the Specific District, collegiate assessor N.A. Nasidze. Pavel Petrovich Benkov, a teacher in the painting class of the Kazan Art School, rented one apartment in this house, and the gendarmerie captain Nikolai Vladimirovich Kirsanov lived in the other. It is worth noting that Nikolai Aleksandrovich Nasidze, a householder, was under the covert surveillance of the gendarmes.

We will not write here about the well-known - about the building of city schools at the very beginning of the Second Mountain and about the long-demolished semi-stone building of the Kazan Volunteer Fire Society under the Third Mountain. The last building combined (to say nothing of the years ago, how successfully) a fire cart on the ground floor and the Gogol auditorium, sometimes loudly called a theater - on the second.

Kirpichno-Zavodskaya: painters, sculptor, architect

Enough has been written about the school and the Gogol Theater, so let's move on to another street - Kirpichno-Zavodskaya. The name itself speaks of its history - there were brick sheds for molding and firing bricks.

Once, while walking along Kirpichno-Zavodskaya, I noticed house 11: firstly, the size of the mezzanine window, it was very large, and secondly, the architraves sawn from wood depicting horses. The thought crept in that a man lived here, not a stranger fine arts A: Painting or sculpting requires good natural light.

And so it turned out. Reading the memoirs of P.A. Radimov, a famous Kazan artist, I came across the place where he writes about the events of October 1917 and mentions the house of G.A. Medvedev with a wide window on the second floor - the studio of Grigory Antonovich.

House of G.A. Medvedev

After some time, documents from the fund of the Kazan City Duma and the council removed the last doubts. And from the "Address-calendar of the Kazan province for 1915" we learn that the teacher of Russian history and art history of the Kazan art school, Pavel Andreevich Radimov, lodged in the house of the head of the school, G.A. Medvedev.

Khristofor Nikolaevich Skornyakov, a teacher of the same school in the painting class, also lived on Kirpichno-Zavodskaya. Karl Ludwigovich Myufke designed and built his house here, immortalizing himself with the design and construction of the complex of the Nikolaev Imperial University in Saratov. The Kazan mansions built by him are certainly attractive. But you have to see Saratov University to understand what is the main thing in Mufke and what is secondary. I must say that other well-known in the Kazan art world and touched by the Kazan Art School lived nearby: the painter Ivan Andreevich Denisov in own house on the First Mountain, the sculptor Vasily Semenovich Bogatyrev lived in Bashmakov's house on the Second Mountain, and Nikolai Ivanovich Feshin lived on the 2nd Soldierskaya (today's Dostoevsky Street).

The story about these streets could be continued: here was the house of the merchant Shevlyagin, where the kidnapper of the revealed icon of the Kazan Mother of God Chaikin stayed, the events of the officer conspiracy unfolded here during the Socialist-Revolutionary rebellion in the summer of 1918, the Shamovskaya hospital was built here and served the people for a long time ... But we don’t monograph, but only notes.

Lev Zharzhevsky

Hello dear.
Shall we continue Eugene Onegin with you? You don't mind, I hope? :-))) Last time we finished here:
Let's start part 2. Interesting :-))
So let's start with the epigraph. As I said in the analysis of the first part, Pushikin has a lot of them in his works. Each chapter has its own. And here it is very funny, because the epigraph of part 2 is a pun. And everyone can interpret it in their own way. Sounds like
"Orus!.." And translation below " Oh Rus!". But the bottom line is that this is from Horace and can be translated from Latin as " Oh village!"Funny, right? :-)

Well, let's go directly to the text.

The village where Eugene missed,
There was a lovely corner;
There's a friend of innocent pleasures
I could bless the sky.
The master's house is secluded,
Protected from the winds by a mountain,
Stood over the river. away
Before him were full of flowers and blossomed
Meadows and fields of gold,
Villages flashed; here and there
The herds roamed the meadows,
And the canopy expanded thick
Huge, neglected garden,
Haven of pensive dryads.


The venerable castle was built,
How castles should be built:
Superbly durable and calm
In the taste of smart antiquity.
Everywhere high chambers,
In the living room damask wallpaper,
Kings portraits on the walls,
And stoves in colorful tiles.
All this is now dilapidated,
I don't really know why;
Yes, but my friend
There was very little need
Then that he yawned equally
Among fashionable and ancient halls.

Well, everything seems to be clear so far, with the exception of a few points. Although I want you to pay attention to the skill of Alexander Sergeevich. With a few lines, he plunges us into a bored state, here is a real master :-)

So what is unclear here. First of all, they are dryads. I don't know why exactly they are brooding here, but maybe it's directly related to the village spleen. In general, this was the name of the nymphs, patronesses of trees. He believes that each tree has its own nymph, almost like a guardian angel for people. There are many varieties of them, but they all come together common title dryads.

The decor of the house is clearly outdated and not at all fashionable - not what Eugene is used to. However, as we will see later, this does not really bother him. Tiles are a kind of tile of that time. Ceramic tiles, which, first of all, lined the oven. We gained particular popularity in our country under Peter the Great, and you can observe stoves with tiles in the houses of his confidants - at least in the Menshikov Palace in St. Petersburg. But if in the first half of the 18th century blue tiles, that is, cobalt tiles, were fashionable, then in the uncle's village house these tiles are colorful. That is, we are dealing, most likely, with enamel tiles. Although whatever one may say, by the time of our story they have long gone out of everyday use. Such a retrograde. as well as damask wallpaper, that is, fabric wallpaper. And it certainly wasn't expensive silk or velour, linen or thick wool. In those years, paper wallpaper only appeared, and, accordingly, it was extremely popular and expensive. However, the fashion for shtof will return. Only expensive and very high quality.

He settled in that peace,
Where is the village old-timer
For forty years I quarreled with the housekeeper,
He looked out the window and crushed flies.
Everything was simple: the floor is oak,
Two wardrobes, a table, a downy sofa,
Not a speck of ink anywhere.
Onegin opened the cupboards;
In one I found an expense notebook,
In another liquor a whole system,
Jugs of apple water
And the eighth year calendar:
An old man with a lot to do
Haven't looked at other books.

In general, everything is Spartan .... A notebook of expenses, liqueurs, among which the famous "Erofeich" and apple water should have been among them. By the way, an extremely pleasant and healthy drink. The recipe is simple - grate an apple, pour it with a liter of water, put it in the refrigerator for an hour, and then filter it. Simple and delicious :-)

Alone among his possessions,
Just to pass the time
First conceived our Eugene
Establish a new order.
In his wilderness, the desert sage,
Yarem he is an old corvée
I replaced the quitrent with a light one;
And the slave blessed fate.
But in his corner pouted,
Seeing in this terrible harm,
His prudent neighbor;
The other smiled slyly,
And in a voice everyone decided so,
That he is the most dangerous eccentric.

Since we remember that Eugene was reputed and considered himself a great economist, he decided to start his economic transformations from his own, more precisely inherited possessions. In fact, of course, nothing revolutionary, but .... all the same, all the same. Without going into theoretical jungle, here the trick was most likely that quitrent, that is rent per capita from each dependent peasant was quite high. As a result, in order to pay this quitrent, the peasants lived almost starving. Yevgeny replaced all this with corvée, and an easy one at that. That is, working out one's duties to the landowner by working on his land. If easy, then 2-3 days a week the peasant worked for the master and gave him the results of his labor, the rest for himself.

Funny reaction from neighbors. One saw terrible harm, for he clearly did not want to give free rein and indulgences to the peasants, quite reasonably believing that in this case he would suffer losses. The second one smiled slyly, realizing that if Onegin does not take care of the household himself, or at least does not appoint a competent and honest manager, then soon he will not have enough money from corvée.

At first everyone went to him;
But since from the back porch
usually served
Him don stallion,
Only along the main road
They will hear them at home, -
Offended by such an act,
All friendship ended with him.
“Our neighbor is ignorant; crazy;
He is a pharmacist; he drinks one
A glass of red wine;
He does not fit the ladies' hands;
All yes yes no; won't say yes
Or no, sir. That was the general voice.

Eugene, who until recently was in the very center of metropolitan life, is definitely bored with the society of his provincial neighbors. There is nothing to talk about with him, and just, apparently, the right people. Therefore, as soon as he hears their approach, he immediately leaves the estate.
Funny opinion about Eugene. For some reason, neighbors consider him an ignoramus, although their education is hardly different from their own. Moreover, I think Madame and Musya Abbot invested in Onegin an order of magnitude more knowledge and theory. However, they further explain why he is an ignoramus. Firstly, he is a formazon, that is, a freethinker, and perhaps even a freemason, which was extremely undesirable and even dangerous for the people of the Catherine's Epoch. Drinks glasses of wine, and not the tincture loved by all the locals. He does not kiss the lady's hand, because it is not fashionable, and indeed retrograde. And he doesn’t use word words in his speech, that is, he doesn’t add c to some words, which means he’s extremely ill-mannered.


In reality, there is a direct conflict between the metropolitan thing and the province. Just like now.

And finally, a few words should be said about the Don stallion. The Don breed is one of the most distinctive in Russia, and very common in the 19th century. albeit not very beautiful, and often simply unsightly, the horse was miraculously hardy, very unpretentious, good health and had amazing speed. so get in the saddle, and ... "they won't catch up with us" (c) :-)))
To be continued...

They say that Moscow stands on seven hills. Where are they, and do they really exist?

Where are the hills from?

Moscow expert Alexei Klimenko answers:

If you look at Moscow from the last floors of high-rise buildings, then the hills are visible very clearly. And, walking around the city on foot, you often feel that the road goes up and down.

Once upon a time, the sea splashed on the site of Belokamennaya, and the bottom surface was smooth. But over time, the inhabitants of the sea died, deposits and irregularities appeared at the bottom. After some time, the sea left, but the glacier came and brought with it huge boulders, which also changed the relief. The rivers and swamps, which were in abundance here, also contributed. All this gave the landscape a relief variety that has survived to this day.

So seven or more?

The theory of seven hills, on which Belokamennaya allegedly stands, appeared in Rus' in the Middle Ages, along with the expression "Moscow is the Third Rome."

Then the Grand Duchy of Moscow expanded significantly, and it was necessary to strengthen its statehood, including ideologically. Moscow began to claim the same political supremacy that it once enjoyed The eternal City, really standing on seven hills. Rome was, of course, the first, the second was Constantinople (now Istanbul) - the heart of Byzantium - also standing on the hills.

After Constantinople fell under the siege of the Ottoman Turks in 1453, a vacancy for the role of world capital became vacant. And the later wedding of Tsar Ivan III with the Byzantine princess Sophia Paleologus reinforced our moral claims to inherit the role of Byzantium.

“Two Romes have fallen, the third is standing, and there will be no fourth” - this phrase of the elder of the Eleazar Monastery Philotheus, said by him in 1523, became the slogan of Moscow.

The expression "on the seven hills" very well fit into the concept of the third Rome - it was a pity to refuse! But where in Moscow did they count seven? Indeed, at the time of its foundation, there was only one hill on the territory of the city (that is, inside the defensive walls) - Borovitsky!

Where else is there something like this?

There are many hill towns in the world. The famous hill of the American capital - the Capitol - is known all over the world. San Francisco is built on such steep hills that trams are lifted up with cables. From the peaks of Prague, stunning views of the old city open up. The highest hill in Edinburgh is proudly called Arthur's Seat.

There are many hilly cities in Russia. On a hill in Smolensk rises the wonderful Assumption Cathedral. The ancient Tutaev was built on a high hill near the ferry across the Volga. And Yekaterinburg stands on the slopes of the Urals.

From hill to hill

Borovitsky Hill laid the foundation for Moscow - it was here, on a high hill covered with a pine forest (boron or borovitsa - this forgotten word means “a place covered with forest”), our city began to be built. The top of this hill was sometimes called Makovitsa (crown), there now Cathedral Square Kremlin. On the edge of the hill (on the “forehead” or “vzlobke” in the old way) is the Execution Ground. Along this very "vzrobka" Borovitsky Hill passes into the neighboring Pskov Hill, which is closer to Kitay-gorod. For some reason, it was there that the inhabitants of Pskov, who came to the capital, settled.

Borovitsky hill - entrance to the Moscow Kremlin.

Tagansky hill, better known as Sewing slide, according to one legend, owes its name to the barbers who settled in those parts. And where they shave their beards and cut their hair, how not to be lice? Over time, Vshivaya Gorka was renamed Shvivaya Gorka, but, to tell the truth, this did not add euphony. By the way, modern Goncharnaya Street was once called Vshivaya Gorka Street. According to some other versions, the name appeared either because tailors (Swedish people) lived here, or weed grass ush grew here, sometimes it was called “sewn up”. But now, in place of the hill, there is a skyscraper on Kotelnicheskaya embankment.

Upper Radishchevskaya Street is the southwestern slope of Moscow's Tagansky Hill in Zayauzie.

Ivanovskaya Gorka - beautiful place Moscow (Zabelina Street rises to it), the John the Baptist Monastery was built on its top. In those parts, there are lanes of the famous Khitrovka - in the 19th century. places of criminal and extremely dangerous.

Zabelina street rises to Ivanovskaya Gorka.

red hill(that is, “beautiful”) was also called Strastnoy or Tverskoy, there was once a Strastnoy Monastery on it.

The Passion Monastery stood on the top of the Red Hill.

On Starovagankovsky hill, right opposite the Kremlin, Pashkov's house was built. In ancient times, ritual games were arranged on the hills, hence the name of the hill - from the old Russian word "wagon" - "play".

All those who have ever been on the verge of escaping from the stuffy embrace of a bustling office are simply obliged to familiarize themselves with the list of the most secluded and remote houses on the planet. And then save it in the bowels of your working computer. Just in case.

1. Island in the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago, Iceland

There are no other houses on this island. Let's hope the internet does too. Only the sea, rocks and a few sheep.

2. Hungary

You can only see this farmhouse among the thickets of a certain agricultural crop from a bird's eye view.

3. Urup Island, Kuril Islands, Russia

Apart from lighthouse keepers and gold miners, no one lives on the island. But meeting them by chance on this one is enough large area rather difficult.

4. Unspecified location, Russia

More like a classic landscape, isn't it? The inhabitants of this house definitely do not have to fight with their neighbors.

5. Alberta, Canada

This photo is a good illustration of the decline rural population in Alberta.

6. Unspecified location, Iceland

Photographer Ryan Reesert was so taken aback by the sight of lonely farmhouses set against the rugged Icelandic landscape that he took a series of similar shots.

7. Unspecified location, Iceland

Another house and another work by Ryan Reesert.

8. Kalsoy, one of the Faroe Islands

This is the Kallur lighthouse, from the top of which offers a magnificent view of the surroundings.

9. Drina River, Serbia

The process of building this house must have been very entertaining.

10. Munnar, India

This small hut in the middle of a tea plantation in Kerala does not disturb the harmony of the postcard landscape.

11. Unspecified location, Iceland

The picture was taken from a car moving along the highway, so getting to civilization from here is not so difficult.

12. Holland Island, Maryland, USA

The island is gradually destroyed by wind and tides, so those wishing to visit it should hurry.

13. Peggy's Cove Settlement, Nova Scotia, Canada

In fact, this house is not so lonely. In Peggy's Cove, not only people live, but also a lighthouse functions - a local landmark.

14. Reykjanes Ridge, Iceland

The dullness of the local landscape is more than offset by the opportunity to observe the northern lights.

15. Hofskirkja, Iceland

This turf-covered church, essentially a dugout, is a true masterpiece of Icelandic architecture.

16. Thousand Islands, Canada

The archipelago as a whole is popular with tourists. In the photo - one of the smallest islands with a charming mansion built on it.

17. Unspecified location, Norway

Many fishing huts are scattered along the shores of the numerous fjords and islands of Norway, most often empty.

18. Thousand Islands, Canada

It can be difficult to cross from island to island by boat due to the peculiarities of the bottom - shallow and rocky. Here this problem was solved locally - with the help of a bridge.

19. Unknown location

A small old house with a stone chimney diversifies the harsh landscape of this hilly area.

20. Unknown location

Trampled path and well-groomed appearance houses testify that people still live here.

21. Unknown location

In such a house, barely rising above the surface of the water, no one will bother you.

22. Unknown location

It seems that the house stands exactly at the point of collision of three elements - sea, earth and wind.

23. Unspecified location, Norway

In addition to the fishing hut itself, in the photo you can see a gazebo, in which it is probably very pleasant to sit with friends over a freshly brewed fish soup.

24. Unspecified location, Japan

It is a great privilege to have a separate house in the face of Japan's usual shortage of land. Even if this house is half in the water.

25. Unknown location

It can be assumed that the hill on which the house stands was once an island, and then the water receded. But for some reason, people were not in a hurry to populate the surroundings.

26. Unspecified location, Iceland

Two dugout huts at the foot of the hill seem quite suitable for year-round living.

27. Unknown location

Only a very brave boss would dare to go down to this house in search of his employees.

28. Unspecified location, USA

The black and white palette of the image emphasizes the atmosphere of desolation and loneliness that prevails in these places.

29. Unknown location

It seems that this lonely building, given over to the power of the steppe winds, greatly yearned for human voices and children's laughter.

30. Erfoud, Morocco

The walls of this absolutely cubic house are made of clay, which prevails in the soil cover of the surrounding area.

31. Coquitlam, Canada

People do not tend to settle here because of frequent flooding.

32. Unspecified location, Iceland

There are very few sunny days in Iceland. And to take such a radiant picture, you need to be patient.

33. Ait Ben Haddou, Morocco

The photo shows a typical example of Moroccan adobe architecture.