Adyl su gorge. Warm sweater, sweatshirt. List of personal equipment
Photo 1.
From Tyrnyauz to Neutrino, then radials to Cheget, Adyl-Su and Adyr-Su.
Some kind of verbal rubbish .. In fact, these are just the next stages of our bike tour in Kabardino-Balkaria ...
Photo 2. 
This is how we saw Tyrnyauz when we descended from the pass.
For half a day I climbed with local stalkers, scrap hunters, through the mines and ruins of the Mining and Processing Plant. This was a previous post.
Here, below, little is left of the plant, soon everything will be razed to the ground and in time everyone will forget that once this enterprise gave life to the whole city.
Now the city looks somewhat abandoned.
Photo 3. 
Zhenya and I parted ways.
He must have been in Neutrino for a long time, but I'm stuck with these stalkers. We had to hurry, it was getting dark, there was no time even to take a picture of the city, only the billboard at the exit could not pass by.
Photo 4. 
Neutrino is a small village of scientists.
Here is the Baksan Neutrino Observatory (BNO) - a physical observatory for the study of neutrinos.
The underground facilities of the observatory are located in two tunnels 3670 m long under the Andyrchi mountain (the tunnels lead towards the peaks of Andyrtau (3937 m) and Kurmutau (4045 m)
Photo 5. 
Having driven along the Neutrino, it is hard to imagine that there are such gigantic structures underground here.
On the surface, everything is very prosaic - ordinary panels, small shops and shops in the style of a selmag, the inhabitants say there are 200 people left.
Photo 6. 
Photo 7. 
Photo 8. 
Although there are new residents.
This apartment in the 90s, when it cost a penny, was bought by a Muscovite, Zhenya's friend.
Now here is a kind of base for skiers-snowboarders, and he himself works as a guide in winter, leads groups to the mountains.
Photo 9. 
Of course, the equipment is still the same ..
Here we ate, washed and slept off after the first two weeks of travel, it was high!
In the hut, to put it mildly, a creative mess, but what a view from the balcony!
Photo 10. 
Photo 11. 
We went to get our passes to the frontier post in the village of Elbrus, which is only 4 kilometers from here.
With passes, the frost came out. Zhenya received without problems, and I applied Russian passport, and to receive came from abroad. In short, they promised to make a new one in a couple of days.
Well, this time is just enough to visit the neighboring gorges of Adyl-Su and Adyr-Su.
And getting to Cheget is not a problem at all, we were there that evening.
Photo 12. 
Photo 13. 
At sunset, the slopes lit up with a warm light - a blunder!
I used to be here only in winter, I'm trying to remember where we rode here.
Photo 14. 
Photo 15. 
Below are the familiar outlines of camp sites, only against an unusual green background.
Photo 16. 
Photo 17. 
The next day we went to Adyl-Su.
At first the road goes along the stormy Baksan.
Photo 18. 
Photo 19. 
Then along its tributary, the river of the same name.
Photo 20. 
Photo 21. 
Photo 22. 
On the way we meet an impressive anti-avalanche cannon.
Photo 23. 
The road to Adyl-Su goes through the alpine camp, the checkpoint where you need to show a pass, the Baumanka camp. Then the road ends, leaving only a small trail.
It makes no sense not only to go further, but also to drive bicycles, we decide to hide them in the bushes and walk.
Photo 24. 
We reach the Green Hotel. In fact, there is no hotel here, it is a huge clearing at the foot of the glacier, where climbers camp with tents, there is even a bathhouse. Along the way, we had to cross a river.
Photo 25. 
Photo 26. 
Photo 27. 
Photo 28. 
On the way back we climbed on foot to the Kashkatash glacier. The sun quickly drove us back into the forest. It's time to go back, you can't shoot much in such heat.
Photo 29. 
From here, from the moraine of the glacier, a good view of the entire gorge opens up.
I will tell you about the Kashkatash glacier next time. And there will be beautiful cards at sunset with a stormy mountain stream. Click and Subscribe so you don't miss out!
Adyl-Su Gorge has long been one of the favorite places for photographers, climbers and freeriders. The first are delighted with the majestic beauty of these places, the second strive to conquer the mountain peaks, on which the snow never melts, and the third - to go down from these peaks on skis and snowboards.
The Adyl-Su gorge is located in Kabardino-Balkaria and belongs to the Elbrus region - an area where almost every fan dreams of visiting skiing not to mention freeriders and heli-ski fans. For them, Adyl-Su is of particular interest - the number of mountain peaks with untouched "powder" is in the tens, the snow on their slopes lies until the summer, and the length of the descent can reach 6 km. Among the numerous routes laid along the Adyl-Su gorge, there are both very difficult and quite simple ones, including completely tourist ones that do not require special climbing skills or high skiing skills.
What else can you do in the Adyl-Su Gorge?
List additional services varies depending on where you choose to live. Most alpine camps offer entertainment familiar to many - sports grounds, equipment rental, gazebos for barbecue, saunas, excursions, and so on.
When does the ski season start in the Adyl-Su Gorge?
The duration of the season in the Adyl-Su gorge depends only on natural factors. Usually, enough snow for skiers falls by November, and you can ride in the mountains until summer. The climate in the gorge is quite mild, in winter there are almost no serious frosts and there are many sunny days, but in the mountains the situation is changing - the thermometer of the thermometer drops lower and lower, the avalanche danger is growing, so you should not go alone to conquer the mountains, there is a risk of not returning alive and healthy.
How to get to the Adyl-Su gorge?
First, you need to get to Nalchik or Mineralnye Vody, where planes from Moscow and other cities often fly. Then, take a bus to the village of Tereskol and get off after leaving the village of Elbrus, before reaching the village of Tegenekli. A good paved road leads to the gorge, along which you will have to walk to the desired camp. From Nalchik to the entrance to the gorge, it takes about 2.5 hours, from Mineralnye Vody– approximately 3 hours.
By car from Nalchik along the A158 road to the turn into the gorge and further to the destination. From Mineralnye Vody, first go along the E50 highway, then turn onto A158 (in Baksan) and then move along the same route.
How much does it cost to stay in the Adyl-Su Gorge and where is the best place to stay?
There are no hotels in the usual sense of the word in the Adyl-Su gorge. It is proposed to live in alpine camps, where there are one or two capital buildings with amenities on the floor or even on the street. At the very beginning of the gorge, the Adyl-Su alpine camp is located; tourists are waiting for a 2-storey building with meals and double rooms for 1,500 rubles. per day. The next in the direction of travel is the Shkhelda alpine camp, where you can stay in a hotel, cottages, houses or tents.
The cost of living in "Shkhelda" starts from 1,800 rubles. (and food too). Similar prices are in the Elbrus camp, but the famous Dzhantugan has become the sports base of the Moscow State Technical University named after N.E. Bauman, so it is now problematic to stay there. Closest to mountain peaks“Green Hotel” is located - a large meadow, from where climbing starts and where those who want to live as close to Nature as possible pitch tents.
At the turn to the Adyl-Su gorge, there are several more comfortable hotels with noticeably different prices. For example, the hotel Sky Elbrus"offers 2-bed standard rooms for 7,800 rubles. per day, and in the hotel "Peak of Europe" a similar room costs from 1,100 rubles. and there are options with renting a bed for 400 rubles.
In the Kyrtyk gorge, we went down to the village of Upper Baksan, where my mobile phone finally got into the zone of confident reception. It was necessary to look at the weather forecast for the date of the planned ascent to Kazbek. But the rest of the world somehow did not even suspect our plans. The rest of the world was, as usual, fun:
The Russian sailing ship Kruzenshtern rammed the ship of the coast guard of Iceland ...
Paternity test will be introduced for UN peacekeepers in hot spots...
Tbilisi flooded as a result of an abnormal downpour…
Six lions, six tigers, bears and dozens of wolves escaped from the enclosures of the Tbilisi Zoo...
On central streets a hippopotamus is stuck in the capital of Georgia, and several alligators are swimming in turbulent streams, sowing fear and horror around ...
And on Kazbek, at an altitude of 5000 meters, on the day of our planned ascent, a meter of snow was seriously planning to fall to the ground. And this nasty meter planned not just to fall out once, but was going to meanly bring down several days in a row ...
2. It was still possible to somehow cope with the insolent meter of snow, but a stuck hippo! Well, it wasn't part of our plans. It became clear that it was absolutely futile to meddle in Georgia now, and it was necessary to use emergency options:
3. With emergency options, it was not very good. Strictly speaking, there were none of these options. Therefore, spitting on all preliminary plans, we decided to stay in the Elbrus region and see the gorges within daytime accessibility from the "base" on the Chegetskaya glade. Despite the fact that we did not have border passes, we wanted to see the well-known directions towards the border - the Adyl-su and Adyr-su gorges. At least until the prohibition signs: 
4. The next day the weather was beautiful - a real scorching hell for a photographer :) And our plans included the Shkhelda and Adyl-su gorges: 
5. Another playful, “familiar, but illegal” semantic content of the word “SHKHELDA”, which is equivalent to the terms “toilet” and “go to the toilet” (go to “shkhelda”), is firmly rooted in the tourist-alpinist lexicon. There are several versions of the origin of this term.
According to one version, it happened due to the fact that the peak was clearly visible from the toilet of the "Shkhelda" camp, "like in the picture." According to another version, one of the climbing groups going to Shkhelda suffered greatly from indigestion, and in a peculiar way “marked” their entire route to the top with frequent visits “to the Shkhelda”. According to the third version, all the groups turning into the Shkhelda gorge ran into the alpine camp toilet along the way, all the paths converged here. And the groups that got lost on these paths invariably went out again to the toilet (again “shkhelda!”, again “stumbled!”). According to the fourth version, the path in the alpine camp to the toilet also went “towards the top”, therefore the walk to the toilet was jokingly called “the trip to Shkhelda”.
The beginning of the way to Shkhelda looks like this: 
6. And this is already a creative composition directly in the Shkhelda climbing camp: 
7. Alpine camp "Shkhelda" was nicknamed "The Cradle of Alpsport". At one time it was one of the leading climbing and instructor centers on the territory of the former USSR: 
8. In June, we did not see a single person here, although the camp itself does not give the impression of being abandoned: 
9. Memorial plaque in memory of Mikhail Khergiani, nicknamed "Tiger of Rocks". Back in the days when my mom used to spend summer time in alpine camps, the following tale went among climbers:
Once seasoned climbers gathered to storm the next impregnable rocks. They sit like that, all in gore-tex, click carbines, knit ropes and discuss the strategy of the assault. And then a Svan boy in bast shoes and onuchs comes up to the seasoned climbers and asks:
- Uncles, what are you all doing here?
- Go, go, boy, on your way. We want to climb there, - one of the seasoned climbers tried to impress the boy. Not impressed.
- Why do you need all these things? - the boy nods at a pile of iron and ropes.
- What do you mean why? I'm telling you, we want to get in there. It is impossible to do this without this equipment.
- I see, - the boy says and, without taking off his bast shoes, climbs onto this impregnable rock, singing a song under his breath.
Well, maybe stories, but the seven-time USSR climbing champion was: 
10. Immediately after the alpine camp, a packed path begins in pine forest: 
11. And below the stormy river Shkhelda roars: 
12. "Shkhelda", by the way, translated from Balkar means "lingonberries": 
13. Local. On fresh air waved the size of a finger, not like his frail counterparts from the middle lane: 
14. Along the way, there are constantly signs that remind the living that the mountains are still dangerous: 
15. Each of these tablets has its own tragedy.
Four Polish climbers fell into a crack while passing through the Ushba Icefall. We failed “successfully”, hitting a snow cushion at a depth of 20 meters. Two were able to get out and, leaving their comrades with a burner and warm clothes, went for help. Marta and Miroslav, who remained in the crack, were not only alive at that time, but also felt great.
Rescuers never found this crack, which, apparently, was covered with a multi-ton block of ice that had come down. So it goes… 
16. Somehow very quickly we reach the border marker. As much as we would not like to disturb a little and go further, but we are turning around. The wall is impressive. 
17. We return to the Adyl-su gorge and have a snack under the shade of daisies: 
18. I hope that everyone here sees a toad with a bouquet? Below you can see the base of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the Shkhelda alpine camp: 
19. By car, which was left near the base of the Ministry of Emergency Situations in front of Shkhelda, we decide to climb to the next alpine camp - Dzhan-tugan. Camp from MSTU im. Bauman - quite modern, there is even a swimming pool, but now it does not work. On the way, of course, we stop for photo shooting: 
20. We leave the car not far from the camp and continue on foot: 
21. Beautiful - finally! It is very difficult to convey with photographs - the sun is hot, mother do not worry. Moreover, it “fries” with light, it is relatively cool in degrees outside: 
22. A mountain that looks like a chisel. We go and think aloud that it would be nice to ski on such an ideal table :) Tell me correct name this peak, who knows: 
23. 
24. Suddenly we stumble upon the marriage encroachments of hundreds of grooms around two brides in yellow and blue outfits. Although whoever understands this Caucasus, maybe everything is the other way around - these are two grooms, in yellow and blue suits :) 
25. Elbrus. Today, the weather allowed to reach the summit, and someone definitely reached their goal. Wow, they, climbers, wave their hands at the very top :) 
26. Again a border sign, but to you! In general, in connection with the change of plans, I had dissatisfaction somewhere inside.
There were also thoughts of renting ski touring equipment and sliding down from the slanting ledge. And the weather that day would have allowed it, but all the rentals were closed in the morning. We decided to postpone it for the next time, although the idea itself is very good: 
27. By the time it's time to go back, but this very dissatisfaction drives you up some path. Drives for a long time, but, in the end, leads to the Kashka-Tash glacier: 
28. Since this exit was not planned and there was no sensible description at hand, the exit to the glacier was a surprise for us :) 
29. And that's why he became the cherry on the cake, which finally made this day: 
30. And now, when the internal dissatisfaction is finally crushed by the views of the glacier, you can finally go down to the car. Wow, it is marked with an arrow: 
31. Adyl-su is a very beautiful gorge. Well, just a lot: 
A beautiful creation of Nature, the Adyl-su gorge, stretches for 15 km from the peaks of the Main Caucasian Range to its mouth in the Baksan Valley. Beautiful peaks, complex broken glaciers, sparkling white snow-ice slopes frame green valleys in the colorful decoration of alpine meadows.
The Adyl-suu gorge is located between two watershed ridges Adyl and Yusengi.
The Adyl Range is the watershed of the Adyl-su and Adyr-su (Adyrsu) rivers, which flow into the Baksan near the villages of Elbrus and Upper Baksan, respectively. The ridge branches off to the north peaks of GKH Gumachi. The Adyl Range ends in the north with a small spur, including the peaks of Yndyrchi (3917 m), South-Western (3800 m), Central (3820 m), North-Eastern (3838 m) peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic. The spur stretched from the southwest to the northeast, forming the southern slopes of the Baksan valley between the Yndyrchi (Andyrchi) and Kurmychi gorges, which fall steeply to the Baksan River.
The Yusengi Ridge is of interest from a tourist or climbing point of view only in its upper reaches, where it merges with the Main Caucasian Range. There are high-mountain passes connecting the gorges of Adyl-su and Yusengi, as well as the beautiful peak of Yusengi-bashi Uzlovaya, which rises like a huge white dome at the confluence of the ridges. Its eastern slopes are steep and rocky, while the western ones serve as excellent pastures with spacious alpine meadows.
The Adyl-su gorge is the most popular gorge not only in the Elbrus region, but throughout Kabardino-Balkaria. You can get into it on the 90th km federal road Baksan-Azau in the area of the tourist complex "Saklya" - 1770 m. In the gorge, in addition to pine, there are many hardwoods. Lots of raspberries, rose hips, mountain ash, sea buckthorn and barberry. There are many medicinal plants in the alpine meadows.
100 m further is the training and sports base "Adyl-su". Currently, the base functions as a children's summer recreation center. But sports climbing groups are always welcome guests. Here they will receive shelter, food, advice on the area and routes, as well as a qualified instructor.
The climbing cemetery is located 100 meters further from the Adyl-su campus up the gorge. This eternal monument gone from us prematurely. It serves as a constant reminder that mountains are potentially dangerous. natural object and, being here, it is necessary to follow the elementary rules written in blood and sweat on the pages of books and textbooks, and which can save health and life.
In the gorge there are two educational and sports mountaineering bases of JSC "Kabbalkalpinist": "Adyl-su" - 1800 m and "Shkheldy" - 1950 m, as well as the educational and methodological center "Elbrus" - 2000 m "Kabbalkalpinist", educational and sports base MSTU named after Bauman "Jan-tuan" - 2300 m, and also located at the mouth of the gorge private boarding house"Saklya" - 1800 m with a bivouac, at an altitude of 1950 m there is a control and rescue detachment "Shkhelda" and at an altitude of 2350 m on the left and right banks of the Dzhan-kuat river there is a bivouac complex national park"Prielbrusye" with a developed infrastructure.
Information boards of the national park are located near the mouth of the gorge, near the road, near climbing and sports bases, near the bivouac, and every visitor can get information by passing them.
There is a taxi rank at the mouth of the gorge and you can save energy for future trips by driving to your destination by car or throwing some food and equipment there.
From the mouth of the gorge to
educational and sports base "Adyl-su" -100m,
educational and sports base "Shkheldy" - 2450,
educational and methodological center "Elbrus" - 3100,
old "Dzhan-tugan" - 5500,
new "Dzhan-tugan" - 6 km,
bivouac NP - 7 km,
"Green Hotel" - 12 km.
From the mouth of the gorge, a flat horizontal asphalt road goes up past the Adyl-su training and sports base. Further, it becomes inclined and with an average slope of 11 ° goes up the gorge towards the Main Caucasian Range. On it you can comfortably get to the a/b "Shkhelda" and UMC "Elbrus". Further from the bridge, a dirt road begins, more like a test site for SUVs, which, with an average slope of 9 °, leads to the Dzhan-Tugan training and sports base of the Bauman Moscow State Technical University. The base is bypassed along the path on the right. After 300 m there is a bivouac. From the bivouac up towards the "Green Hotel" and the Bashkarinskoye Lake there is also a well-visible path, along which in 2 hours you can reach the objects located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Range.
The path passes by an avalanche-prone couloir, 200 m short of the Shkhelda SS. In winter, avalanches constantly come down in this place, which block the road, and the road service is constantly on the alert. On account of the avalanche coming down this couloir, two human lives.
Work is in full swing in climbing bases: some groups go on climbing, others are engaged on ice, others are mastering rock climbing techniques.
Tourists and climbers hone their sports skills on training routes. No one knows when you will need something for which you have to repeat every day to exhaustion on a familiar route that has become the most inconspicuous hooks.
Attention! Climbing classes are possible only under the supervision and guidance of an instructor and with a reliable top rope.
On the second serpentine after the second bridge from the bottom there is an artillery gun, from which the avalanche service of Roshydromet shoots avalanches, preventing the formation of critical masses of snow and lowering it in small portions.
On the first serpentine of the ascent, you can turn off the road, climb the stairs over the fence and follow the path that runs along the river towards the current, now approaching it, then moving away. Approximately half way down, you can go down to the Narzan spring and have a rest after tasting the heroic drink. From mid-July to the end of August, the source is flooded by the river and it is useless to try to find it on the shore among the stones. The trail leads around the old "Dzhan-tugan" and leads to the road, along which in 15-20 minutes you can get to the training and sports base of the Moscow State Technical University named after Bauman "Dzhan-tugan".
Not far from the USB, a path laid among alpine meadows rises steeply to the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions Pass, where there are places for setting up a bivouac. From here, ascents are made to the peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic, Kurmychi.
Please don't trample the grasslands. Walk only along the path.
Nearby is a stream flowing down from the right side of the gorge. It can be crossed over a flimsy bridge or over rocks. Crossing the stones is not difficult. Then there is a clamp, where a narrow path is limited on one side by a steep rocky-grassy slope, on the other - by a plumb line to the Dzhan-kuat River. A wire is stretched along the clamp, for which you need to cling. The length of the downhill is about 50 m. Then the downhill flattens out, the trail widens.
Ahead, a bridge has been laid from one large stone to another stone. This is the first bridge across the Dzhan-kuat River from the Green Hotel down the gorge. For insurance, a wire is stretched here as a railing. We pass it and find ourselves on the left bank of the Dzhan-kuat river.
Attention!
You need to go holding on to the wire.
It is better not to climb the high right-bank moraine of the Bashkara glacier, the path along the moraine has collapsed in some places, and it is dangerous to walk!
You need to go in a pocket between the moraine and the slope of the watershed ridge. Half an hour walk on a slightly sloping grassy slope ends with an ascent to the next terrace. On it, a 20-minute walk along the riverbed and access to a huge green meadow, bounded from below by the shaft of the right-bank moraine of the Bashkara glacier, and from above by the left-bank moraine of the Dzhan-kuat glacier. Tourists and climbers find shelter here. This glade is called "Green Hotel". Here they usually arrange a bivouac before climbing or hiking. Under the slopes of the right-bank moraine of the Bashkara glacier there is a spring with clean water.
At the "Green Hotel" there is a research and production glaciological station of the Faculty of Geography of the Moscow state university named after Lomonosov. Scientists observe the life of the Dzhan-kuat glacier, and students of the faculty do their work experience here.
It is worth climbing to the moraine from the northwestern side of the Green Hotel, located above Lake Bashkara. Elbrus is clearly visible from here. And in the late and early hours of the day you can admire the sunset and sunrise. From here you can see how Elbrus gradually turns into all possible warm colors. The spectacle is unforgettable.
Lake Bashkara is located at an altitude of 2600 m between the moraine ridges of the Bashkara and Dzhan-kuat glaciers. Its depth, according to some sources, is about 20 m.
Some scientists suggest that the lake can break through the moraine dam and rush along the gorge, sweeping away everything in its path. But this will not happen in the coming years, since the runoff is quite normal and there is no accumulation of water within the boundaries of the existing banks. According to the doctor of geographical sciences, glaciologist Viktor Popovnin, one should not give in to panic, but one should not lose vigilance either.
About 10 years ago, the Bashkarinsky glacier descended into the lake with its tongue. At the beginning of summer, one could observe how huge blocks of ice broke off from the glacier, fell noisily into the water, raising waves.
Temperatures are rising all over the world right now. environment, retreat of glaciers and rising sea levels.
Attention! Swimming in the lake is not recommended due to cold water And great depth lakes.
If you stand facing Elbrus, then on the left there are the peaks of the Main Caucasian Range: Bashkara (4241 m), Ullu-Kara (4302 m), Alyosha Germogenov Peak (3993 m), Cheget-kara-bashi (3667 m). Behind the back, in the amphitheater of the Dzhan-kuat glacier, the peaks of the GKH Gumachi (3805 m), Trapeze (3740 m) and Dzhan-tugan (3991 m) stand out.
The peak of Bash-kara (Chernaya head, balk) - 4241 m - is located in the GKH between the peaks of Ullu-kara in the west and Dzhan-tugan in the east. To the north, Bashkara breaks off with an icy rocky wall, and from the ridges and from under the wall, steep, severely broken ice slopes descend with numerous faults that feed the Bashkarinsky glacier. Bash-Kara was first climbed along the Northern buttress and the Western ridge on June 29, 1948 by climbers led by K. Egger. When the sun is in the south, the northern wall of Bashkara is in shadow and really resembles a black head.
Ullu-kara (Big, black, balk) - 4302 m - a huge rocky massif of the GKH, located between the peak of Bashkar in the east and the peak of Free Spain in the west. The top of the massif is covered with a thick ice cap hanging over its eastern and western walls and serving as one of the sources of food for the Kashkha-tash glaciers in the northwest and Bashkara in the northeast. When you look at Ullu-kara from the slopes of Elbrus straight to the north, the peak faces the beautiful northern wall, formidable and terrible. The first ascent of Ullu-Kara was made by the group of N. Popov in 1934. Their route serves as a classic route to the summit.
A short northern spur with the peaks of Germogenov Peak and Cheget-Kara-Bashi departs to the northeast from Ullu-Kara. Cheget-kara-bashi (Northern, black peak, beam) - 3667 m - extreme peak Northern spur of Ullu-Kara. On the eastern side of the peak lies the Bash-Kara glacier, and under western slopes a small glacier Cheget-kara-bashi with Tury lakes under it - a traditional place for bivouacs. Here on a spacious green meadow with the purest drinking water tourists and climbers stop. From here you have an amazing view of Elbrus and the surrounding peaks. The first ascent was made on August 19, 1937 along an easy route by Alexander Sidorenko and Vladimir Orlyankin.
Peak Germogenov - 3990 m - is named after Alexei Germogenov, who died on Elbrus in 1933. Previously, it was called Dzhatchi chekgan (Peak Dzhatchi) in honor of the famous Balkar strongman and hunter Dzhatchi Dzhappuev, who, according to an oral Balkar legend, made the first ascent to both peaks of Elbrus long before the officially recognized Killar Khashirov. The peak is located in the northern spur of the Ullu-Kary massif. In the east, under the peak lies the Bash-kara glacier, under the western slopes - the Kashkha-tash glacier. The first ascent was made on July 11, 1934 by a group led by N. Popov.
Dzhan-tugan (born soul, balk.) rises on the right side of the amphitheater of the Green Hotel. This beautiful snow and ice pyramid with a height of 4000 m is replete with routes of medium difficulty. WITH south side Dzhantugan lies the Dzhantugan plateau. The first ascent was made on August 12, 1935 by East ridge climbers led by O. Aristov. According to the Balkar legend, a hooligan expelled from the Balkar community lived under this peak, offending women, children and the elderly. He lived there until his soul was born again kind and compassionate. Only then did the Balkars accept him.
In the upper reaches of the valley, above the Dzhan-kuat glacier, the peaks of Gumachi, Cheget-tau-chan, Trapezia, VIA-tau, Koi-avgan-bashi rise.
Mount Gumachi (mountain covered with canvas) is the main object for preparing beginners for the badge "Alpinist of Russia". Climbing routes to Gumachi from all gorges on any route belong to the lowest category of difficulty. On them, snowy slopes and ridges are combined with simple rocky areas. From the top, a grandiose panorama of the ridges and beautiful valleys immersed between them opens up. To the north from Gumachi to the peak of Adyl-bashi, the Northern Spur of the GKH stretches, separating the valleys of the Adyl-suu and Adyr-suu rivers with the peaks of Chotchat, VIA-tau (the peak of the Military Engineering Academy), Koyaugan-aush (the peak above the pass through which they drive sheep), Friendship and Locomotive.
The first ascent of Gumachi was made along the Western ridge on July 1, 1933 by A. Japaridze and G. Niguriani. On VIA-tau, the first group led by O. Aristov climbed on July 27, 1935. On July 17, 1935, G. Deberl climbed Coyaugan-aush (3820 m) alone for the first time. The summit is composed of heavily destroyed rocks, rockfalls are frequent. Climbing the summit and passing the pass of the same name is not recommended due to the increased danger of rockfalls.
The easy passes of Gumachi - 3450 m and Koi-Avgan-Aush - 3466 m can be passed to the Adyr-su gorge. The approach to the Gumachi pass along the Dzhan-kuat glacier is replete with cracks. Therefore, the passage of the pass involves mountain training. In this case, you need to go exclusively in bundles. From the Dzhan-kuat glacier, a grandiose panorama of Mount Elbrus and the surrounding ranges opens up. All difficult passes, such as Dzhantugan and Bashkara, lead through the Main Caucasian Range to Georgia and are therefore closed for passage.
The Jan-kuat glacier is slowly receding. Together with the Bashkarinsky glacier Dzhan-kuat is the main source of food for the stormy and capricious river Dzhan-kuat.
A long time ago I heard from my dad the magic, mysterious word "Shkhelda". I saw this mountain range in photographs, read about it and knew that despite its relatively low altitude (4100-4300 meters above sea level), it is even more difficult than Elbrus in terms of climbing. Shkhelda (translated from the Kabardino-Balkarian "lingonberries") you just need to see to understand that you are in love with her forever.
It is through the Adyl-Su gorge ("Red water" in the lane from the Turkic, or " beautiful river"in the lane from Balkar) you can get to Shkhelda and to most of the alpine camps that survived in Kabardino-Balkaria after the collapse of the USSR (I do not take Bezengi and Ullu-Tau into account"). There are several of them - right at the turn to the gorge , 200 meters from federal highway, mountain base "Adyl-Su", after 3 km - the mountaineering camp "Shkhelda", even further - "Dzhantugan". From this gorge, the road leads to the border with Georgia, so there is a border checkpoint along the way. We went to the "Shkhelda" alpine camp on the basis of our passports and Dasha's birth certificate, but in order to move on, we need a pass.
The Adyl-Su gorge is one of the most beautiful in the Elbrus region and is famous as the mecca of Soviet mountaineering. To see at least the main part of its beauty, you need fast transport, some money, and time (I think a couple of days, but this is offhand). We didn’t have all this, so all that we had in the half-day that remained before leaving for Nalchik was to walk along the path towards the Shkheldinsky massif. But even that was enough for us to want to come back.
View of the Baksan gorge from the Adyl-Su gorge.
Pine forest in Adyl-Su.
We turned into Adyl-Su immediately after, and spent the whole afternoon there. Asphalt road gradually gains height immediately starting from the turn from the federal highway, along it along the banks of the Adyl-Su river goes hiking trail. The "Forest Fairy Tale" trail, which I mentioned above, passes right there. Starting in the park of the Elbrus village, it turns from the Baksan Gorge to Adyl-Su and passes through various natural attractions - you can admire mountain river, powerful pine trees, beautiful flowers, thickets of raspberries and lingonberries, huge mossy boulders, find out what birds live here and so on. For a long time we could not understand what kind of thoughtful signs ("Garden of Rocks", for example) accompany our path, until it dawned on us that we were walking along an ecological path. I think it's a great idea to show schoolchildren the beauty native land, instill a love for nature and for one walk in the fresh air.
It is not for nothing that the Adyl-Su river is nicknamed "red" - it is filled with narzans with a high iron content, which is why the stones at the bottom of the gorge have acquired a reddish hue. Several springs are encountered along the trail.
Brook along the way.
Memorial plaque about the deceased boy who died in the mountains (can be read, clickable).
A snowfield flowing directly across the road into the Adyl-Su River.
The road forks right after the checkpoint. The main one goes further, deeper into the gorge, and we turned right, to the Shkhelda alpine camp, which is located on the banks of the river of the same name and at the entrance to the gorge named after it. The mountain camp was not "dozing" at the moment of our arrival: it was deserted and quiet, and only a light at the entrance to the dining room illuminated a small circle on the concrete floor. From the window of the second floor, a peppy grandfather looked out.
Alpine camp does not work! he said. - The first race is only from May 15th.
- What can you see here in an hour and a half?
- Yes, Shkhelda, of course. No, you won’t reach the glacier, - the old man said, looking critically at our family. - You need a pass there, and you won’t have time in an hour. But you will see the mountain from afar.
Danya fulfills the norms of "TRP for dads".
Pull-ups with weighting in the form of a baby. It is complicated by the fact that it is necessary not to wake the child.
Danya as the devil.
Old-school equipment hung on a boulder in an alpine camp - probably to teach or inspire ungrateful descendants.
The path from the alpine camp turns sharply into the Shkhelda gorge and passes in some places through rather obscure places for passing them with a child - there are unpleasant cliffs. The trail is very well trodden (still, so many generations of climbers have passed here), but we came across a section with a snowfield flowing into the river, we had to go along it. Vegetation changes dramatically - from dense pine forest the path breaks out open space above the forest zone, there are already crooked birches and thorny bushes. The slopes are prone to avalanches. There are constantly signs in memory of the dead climbers - many were taken by Ushba, the routes to which also begin here.
A cliff along the edge of which the path passes. Below the river Shkhelda.
On the path.
Snowdrop flowing into Shkhelda.
First view of Shkhelda.
A fat slug that crawled across our path.
The rhododendron has not bloomed yet.
Commemorative plaques.
Grandpa was right. We did not reach the glacier in an hour and a half, but according to the map, it was not that far from us. We ran into a sign "Stop!", immediately after which the path dived into a cliff, and then again rose steeply on its other side. The control time for turning back is 19:00, the clock is already 19:20, the sun is setting, and we are still having a snack and taking pictures. Dasha woke up after long trip and walks with "legs", there is no time for feats and forced marches.
Here we followed the recommendations of the stand and stopped.
From afar, we could see only part of the Shkhelda massif, but the unexpectedly fine weather more than compensated for everything. Every line on the snow-white sheet of steep walls was visible, graceful curves, toothy peaks against the blue sky. Shkhelda is indeed a beauty. Words cannot convey this, and my photographs very, very remotely reflect reality. Just go there, you won't regret it.
The couloir that blocked our path behind a sign. We decided not to go any further.
You can read more about the sights of the Adyl-Su gorge at the link.
Epilogue
Of course, we didn't have enough time. Of course, you can get stuck in the Elbrus region - sometimes for a lifetime, it is so attractive. If you make a request "attractions of the Elbrus region", helpful Google or Yandex will give out a lot of links for every taste - for lovers of skiing, and for lovers of mountaineering, and just trekking, and for lovers mineral springs And historical monuments, for lovers of botany and biology, glaciology and geology, for children, teenagers, adults, pensioners. But I would like to end with this.
I would like to remind you that despite the accessibility, the Elbrus region is a national park, and a certain regime of nature management, or rather, even nature conservation, is established by law here. An environmental fee (50 rubles or so) is paid for being present in the park, but this does not help save it from the onslaught of civilization and the carelessness of people.
When you come here by car, you rush through beautiful shores Baksan, admiring the peaks and admiring the views from the window. But if you walk, then you see that the river banks, and sometimes the slopes of the mountains, are simply littered with garbage - beer cans, napkins, bottles, plastic, even toilet bowls (!). I consider it barbaric to come / come to national park, yes, in general, anywhere, and leave behind at least a piece of paper.
Elbrus is not just a national park. This is the place where mountains live and where you can not only see them, but also feel them. Therefore, please, when going on a date to the mountains, behave politely and try to take care of them.
