Machapuchare is an unconquered peak. Somewhere else there are unclimbed mountain peaks

On July 31, 1954, only 52 years after the first attempt to climb, one of the most difficult mountain peaks, K2, finally fell before the climbers. Against this background, we recall other stunning peaks, for various reasons, still unconquered.

The most beautiful mountain peak, which, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition organized by Jimmy Roberts stopped only fifty meters from the summit. Conquer one of the most beautiful mountains The Himalayas were thwarted by a promise made to the government of Nepal. The bottom line is that in Hindu beliefs, it is on the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that the Roberts team kept their promise, the first persons of Nepal immediately closed Machapuchare for any visits.

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered sacred mountain representatives of four major religions at once - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the government of China, which has occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not allowed it to be conquered so far. All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who did receive permission from the PRC authorities to conquer Kailas, subsequently refused to climb, and the Spanish expedition in 2000, which bought a pass for an impressive amount, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route, and protests from the UN.

highest unconquered peak world, rising above sea level by more than seven and a half thousand meters. Located on disputed territory between Bhutan and China, she could submit to the Japanese expedition of 1998, if official Beijing would still issue permission to climb. The Japanese eventually climbed the nearby Liankang Kangri. Gangkhar Puensum could have fallen even earlier, when mountaineering was already allowed in Bhutan, but a ban on visiting peaks above six thousand meters had not yet been introduced (again due to religious reasons). However, the expeditions of 1985 and 1986 ended in failure.

The peak, rushing into the sky at 7207 meters, is also located on the constantly contested Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiaba, even before the law "everything above six thousand is impossible." After him, of course, and even more so. At the same time, the neighboring Shimokangri was taken by the Korean expedition, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.

This mountain, whose peak is at an altitude of 7221 meters, has not yet succumbed to human perseverance, not only because of the certain difficulties with which Western expeditions obtain climbing permits from China. Karjiang is now considered one of the most difficult and recalcitrant peaks in the world - high technical complexity and an extremely high risk of avalanches, coupled with constantly unfavorable weather conditions stopped on the way more than one expedition.

Being in a territory torn apart by political disputes (Pakistani Kashmir) does not particularly create problems for climbers seeking to storm this unruly peak. But by no means the highest (6979 meters above the level) mountain of the Baltoro Muztag ridge gives expeditions much more problems than K2, which is the highest peak of this mountain formation. Many experienced climbers have tripped over Gasherbrum 6.

Despite its modest height, barely exceeding three thousand meters above sea level, the Antarctic volcano Siple remains on the list of unconquered peaks of the world. Apart from its geographical inaccessibility, which, for example, did not prevent climbers from climbing Erebus, no additional difficulties of climbing to the top are known.

We warn you: the article is full of beauty and aesthetics, from which the next eight unconquered peaks become even more desirable. Especially if you are extreme, love heights, and have been looking for thrills for a long time.

Gangkhar Puensum

• Height: 7,570 meters
• Location: border between China and Bhutan
• Why not subdued: stupid laws
  

Gangkhar Puensum is located on disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is definitely not disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest of the still unconquered peaks. In the 1980s, four attempts were made to climb, after which a law was passed in Bhutan prohibiting climbing at an altitude above 6 km.

North Face Masherbrum 4

• Height: 7.821 m
• Location: Pakistan
• Why Not Conquered: Extreme Difficulty

Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has climbed yet. The reason is the same - the route as "unrealistically extreme".

The north face of Masherbrum 4 subtly hints: "Don't even try to climb me."

Siple Mountain

• Height: 3.110 m
• Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
• Why not conquered: harsh climate
  

This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but low temperature and distance from the civilized world. There are suspicions that Siple Mountain is actually an extinct volcano covered with a glacier.

Machapuchare

• Height: 6.998 m
• Location: north central Nepal;
• Why not subdued: religion and law

The most beautiful mountain peak, which, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition organized by Jimmy Roberts stopped only fifty meters from the summit. They were prevented from conquering one of the most beautiful mountains of the Himalayas by a promise given to the government of Nepal.

The bottom line is that in Hindu beliefs, it is on the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that the Roberts team kept their promise, the first persons of Nepal immediately closed Machapuchare for any visits.

Kailash

• Height: 6.638 m
• Location: south of the Tibetan Plateau in the Tibetan autonomous region People's Republic of China
• Why not conquered: “sacred” status
  

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered a sacred mountain by representatives of four major religions at once - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the government of China, which has occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not allowed it to be conquered so far.

All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who did receive permission from the PRC authorities to conquer Kailas, subsequently refused to climb, and the Spanish expedition in 2000, which bought a pass for an impressive amount, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route, and protests from the UN.

Tongshanjiabu

• Height: 7.207 m
• Location: central part Himalayas, 12 km northwest of Kangphu Kang
• Why not subdued: laws

The peak, rushing into the sky at 7207 meters, is also located on the constantly contested Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiaba, even before the law "everything above six thousand is impossible." After him, of course, and even more so. At the same time, the neighboring Shimokangri was taken by the Korean expedition, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.

Karjiang

• Height: 7.221 m
• Location: 4 kilometers northeast of Kula Kangri
• Why not conquered: extreme lvl 80
  

This mountain, too, has not yet succumbed to human perseverance. But not only because of certain difficulties with the law. Karjiang is now considered one of the most difficult and recalcitrant peaks in the world - the high technical complexity and the extremely high risk of avalanches, coupled with constantly adverse weather conditions, stopped more than one expedition on the way.

Gasherbrum 6

• Height: 6.979 m
• Location: in the multi-peak Gasherbrum massif of the Baltoro Muztag ridge mountain system Karakorum, located in the disputed territory of Gilgit-Baltistan
• Why not conquered: chores

All the same story as with Masherbrum 4. It is by no means the highest (6979 meters above sea level) mountain of the Baltoro Muztag ridge. But expeditions also cause a lot of trouble, having the honorary title of high peak this mountain formation. Many experienced climbers have tripped over Gasherbrum 6.

We have compiled five of the most dangerous mountains in the world and learned from a professional climber all the subtleties of preparing for the ascent.

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December 11 is International Mountain Day. This holiday appeared quite recently, only at the UN assembly in 2003, which is very surprising, given how important mountains are to our world. Not only do they make up a quarter of the entire land surface and are home to over ten percent of the population; mountains are the basis of the economic prosperity of mankind. And also, in the pagan cultures of the world, mountains have always been sacred place- the abode of spirits and gods (the same ancient Greek Olympus).

But not all mountains are beautiful and serene. Among them there are also real predators who strictly judge everyone who decides to conquer them.

"360 Moscow Region" decided to recall the most cruel and treacherous peaks of the world, which are always ready to throw down an unlucky climber. And, if you immediately remember Everest with a height of 8844 meters, then you are not quite right. Although at its top the temperature drops to -60 degrees, and the wind speed sometimes reaches two hundred meters per second, this is not the most dangerous peak peace.

More than three thousand climbers conquered Everest, both alone and as part of a group. Oh yes, a 13-year-old blind child and a 73-year-old woman also climbed this mountain in a group. And although Everest has collected its bloody harvest from those who decided to get to the top, there are peaks in the world that are more dangerous.

In addition to a selection of the most dangerous peaks in the world, "360 Moscow Region" learned about some of the difficulties and subtleties of mountaineering from Anna Pomazova, a professional mountain climber.

Kanchenjunga

Photo : dic.academic.ru

Kanchenjunga (8586 meters) is not only the third highest peak in the world, but also one of the most dangerous. climbing routes on everything the globe. With the rest of the peaks of the world, a simple rule applies: technological innovations reduce mortality. Kanchenjunga technical progress completely indifferent. The summit continues to kill climbers with frightening frequency, and mortality in last years only increased.

The name of the mountain is translated from Tibetan as the Five Treasures of the Great Snows. The five peaks of Kanchenjunga are the five treasures: silver, gold, jewels, grain and sacred texts. The mountain (endowed by the locals with a female spirit) jealously guards its treasures and tries to kill anyone who encroaches on them. By the way, Kanchenjunga especially hates female climbers. Only one of them was able to conquer this mountain - the Englishwoman Ginette Harrison. True, six months later, she tragically died during the conquest of Mount Dhaulagiri.

- What are the features of preparation for high-mountain ascents?

Training must be appropriate to the problems that may arise at altitude. Basically, this is the so-called mountain sickness, which occurs due to the fact that a person is not used to altitude. This is oxygen deficiency, so training should include elements with a breath load. It is possible to run up and down in ragged distances, faster or slower. So that the respiratory system is trained.

Another aspect is muscular physical training. This is a big load in the first place on the legs. The most useful is running and walking (at a fast pace). Moreover, it is necessary to train not on flat terrain, preferably hills with ups and downs, not asphalt roads, but unpaved ones. For mountaineers and those who go to the mountains, the main training is running. Well, plus to this, since there are often technical elements during climbing, you also need to squat, pull yourself up. That is, of course, general physical training. The exercises seem to be banal, but, nevertheless, quite important in order to prepare for a trip to the mountains.

Chogori, or K2

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Chogori (8611 meters) is the most difficult and dangerous peak in the world, despite the fact that it is the second highest after Everest. This is hell and at the same time the Holy Raal of any self-respecting climber. Only 284 climbers were able to conquer K2. The overall mortality of mountain climbers on this peak is 25%. This peak could not be conquered in winter period.

- What do they eat in the mountains?

Food is very individual and, probably, there are no uniform standards. Now there are many different types products, including for athletes. But the main so-called "layout" should come from how many calories we are going to burn there. And, accordingly, you need to try to restore this number of calories. This, of course, is very difficult, because you can’t carry heavy products, and a large number of It is also not always possible to take. Therefore, they take the most high-calorie foods, for example, chocolate, something meat - sausages, lard. And the main dishes, as in ordinary life - cereals and pasta. Some athletes do take active supplements, but this is not a dogma, and not many people are passionate about this.

Annapurna

Photo : dic.academic.ru

This is not one peak, but a whole mountain range in the Himalayas, the highest point of which reaches a height of 8091 meters. Annapurna is the tenth highest of all eight-thousanders. She was the first of the mountains of this type allowed a man to conquer his peak. However, this does not give reason to think that climbing it is a pleasure trip. Some thirty years ago, every second climber forever remained on the slopes of Annapurna, but now these figures have become more optimistic: the death rate of climbers on the mountain is about 19%.

- There is another question: what is harder, climb or descend?

Of course, everything depends on specific places, specific peaks and the abilities of a person. More often than not, lifting seems to be the hardest part. But there is such a nuance that, firstly, after lifting, the legs get tired. When you go down hard and the load is unusual for a person, a little leg is directed down. And this load is very large and many say that it is harder for them to go down. In addition, there is also such an aspect that the ascent is often delayed, this is a rather difficult event, for several hours, or even for several days. And when the descent begins, the person is already very tired. The descent is difficult because of this, there is no strength. All forces are put on the rise, because it is believed that the goal is achieved when a person is at the top. But, in fact, it was achieved when you returned.

Eiger

The Eiger is a peak in the Bernese Alps with a height of only 3970 meters. "Not even four thousand? And what's so dangerous here?" - You will say and you will be wrong. Despite the "childish" height, this peak competed with the eight-thousanders in terms of danger and difficulty of climbing. Moreover, for a long time there was not even an attempt to reach the top: it just seemed impossible. The thing is that in the last part of the route, glaciers and pieces of rock roll down on climbers over and over again from a two-kilometer slope. The Eiger is an icy hell, which can still fill up a gaping climber with tons of ice.

- Are there unconquered peaks in the world?

Of course, there are more. Of course, they are getting smaller. Basically, of course, they are concentrated in the Himalayas. This is not yet fully explored mountain piece.

Banntha Brakk

The Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan has always been infamous among climbers. But among all the peaks, Banntha Brakk (7285 meters) was the most inaccessible and deadly. Only three ascents of it were completed successfully, and between the first (1977) and the second (2001) 24 years passed. For a bloodthirsty temper locals nicknamed the mountain "cannibal".

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Location: Bhutan-Tibet border (Central Asia)
- First ascent: unconquered summit. 4 attempts to conquer the summit were made in 1985 and 1986.
- Approach to Gangkhar Puensum mountain: following the hiking trail from Bumthang (Dhur village) to Dhur Tsachu hot springs, or from Lunan towards Dhur Tsachu - there is a base camp for expeditions, but such a route requires obtaining permission from the Bhutanese authorities.
Now tourists can make trekking passing by the mountain Gangkhar Puensum. The track is called "Snowman Trek".

• Gangkhar Puensum is the highest mountain in Bhutan and the 40th highest peak in the world.

• Peak name "Gangkhar Puensum"

• Gangkhar Puensum is located on the border of Bhutan and Tibet, although the exact boundaries of these states are still disputed.

For the first time this peak was mapped and described in 1922, but in the border zone of Tibet or Bhutan.

• There were four expeditions to the summit of Gangkhar Puensum in 1985 and 1986, just after Bhutan opened its mountains to climbers in 1983.

However, in 1994, climbing to heights above 6000 meters on the mountains located on the territory of Bhutan was banned by the government of the Kingdom of Bhutan in order to respect the local faith, and in 2003 mountaineering in Bhutan was completely banned.
Based on this fact, the top of Gangkhar Puensum will probably remain the highest unclimbed peak in the world for a very long time.

• In 1998, a Japanese expedition received permission from the Chinese Mountaineering Association to climb Gangkhar Puensum from Tibet.

The results of this Japanese expedition was the statement that the main peak of Gangkhar Puensum is geographically completely located north of the border Bhutan and territorially belongs to China. This view was supported by the Chinese and Japanese authorities.

• The Japanese expedition on Liankang Kangri described the summit of Gangkhar Puensum standing on the top and slopes of its secondary peak.

In the early morning of May 5, 1999, 5 climbers led by Kiyohiko Suzuki set out to storm the summit from the last pre-summit camp (Camp3) at around 6920 meters. The group climbed the North Ridge and when they climbed the last snowy summit wall, Gangkhar Puensum Mountain, located on the border of China and Bhutan, with its magnificent southern slopes, opened up to them in all its glory.

The team soon summited Liankang Kangri (North Gangkhar Puensum, 7535m), the second highest unclimbed peak in the world (and a daughter peak of the main Gangkhar Puensum), thus becoming the first people to reach its summit.

From its top, climbers saw the magnificent Khula Kangri mountain range, stretching to the Northeast with its highest point- the peak of Gangkhar Puensum, which remains the highest unconquered point on the planet, and now, apparently, for a long time due to the political decision of the authorities of the Kingdom of Bhutan, which thereby solved two issues at the same time: the issue of the territorial belonging of the mountain and the border zone and religious disputes about the ascent of climbers to the sacred peaks for the Bhutanese.

We, standing at the top of the daughter peak of this controversial peak, saw that the passage from Liankang Kangri to Gangkhar Puensum is in principle possible, although, apparently, climbers would have to overcome a difficult, knife-sharp ridge with unstable snow and ice cover; and pre-summit rocky pointed ledges.

If not for the political disputes between China and Bhutan, our team would have been able to overcome this problem.

On the occasion of the celebration of the 40th anniversary of the founding of the China Mountaineering Association (CMA) in May 1998 in Beijing, the meeting of the Association decided to explore the possibility of obtaining permission for mountaineering expeditions in the border area of ​​China and Bhutan. Shortly after this meeting, such permission was actually obtained and we were able to climb the summit of Gangkhar Puensum from the Tibetan side in 1999.
The Japan Mountaineering Association immediately after this decision, in October 1998, sent the first reconnaissance expedition to Gangkhar Puensum.
The result of this reconnaissance expedition was the final decision confirming the viability of a successful future summit expedition. Following this decision, the Japan Association began an active phase of preparations for the 1999 expedition.

But, to the surprise of the Japan Association, the Chinese Association sent an unexpected notice that the planned 1999 ascent of Gangkhar Puensum was to be postponed indefinitely due to unresolved political disputes with the Kingdom of Bhutan; in particular because of territorial affiliation Gangkhar Puensum.

This notification came so late that there was no point in canceling the planned expedition, and the Liankang Kangri mountain, the second highest unclimbed peak in the world, was chosen by the Japan Association as an alternative peak. This expedition included 11 people led by T. Itami (49 years old), who selected the most young and successful climbers for the team.
Liankang Kangri was climbed in just 17 days from the base camp at 4750 meters to the top of 7535 meters.

April 12 - flight from Japan to Beijing
April 14 - Arrival in Lhasa via Chengdu.
April 18 - Preheod from Lhasa to last village on the way Yojitsongtso (altitude 4500 m), where a caravan with 75 horses was hired for a hike to the Base Camp. The transition took 2 days.
April 21 - installation base camp at around 4750 m, at the confluence of the Liankang and Namsang glaciers.
April 25 - installation of the first high-altitude camp Camp1 at around 5350 m.
April 30 - transition to the second high-altitude camp Camp2 at around 6200 m with 11 railings hanging along a dangerous glacial crossing.
May 1 - laying railings through ice cracks to the third high-altitude camp Camp3 at around 6920 m.
May 8 - accommodation and acclimatization in Camp3Posted on 2012-11-25 in

Gangkhar Puensum is the most high mountain in Bhutan with a height of 7,570 meters, as well as the 40th highest peak in the world. Many will be very surprised, but Gangkhar Puensum is still unconquered when most of the peaks in the Himalayas were conquered decades ago.

The summit of Gangkhar Puensum lies on the border of Bhutan and Tibet, although the exact boundary is disputed. Chinese cards placed the peak right on the border, while other sources placed it entirely in Bhutan. When the mountain was first mapped in 1922, maps of the area were woefully inaccurate. Even more recently, maps of the area showed the summit at various locations and marked with different heights. One of the first teams that decided to conquer the summit could not find the mountain at all.


Bhutan opened itself to mountaineering only in 1983, as the mountains were considered the abode of sacred spirits. When the country finally opened its doors to climbers, a series of expeditions were organized. Between 1985 and 1986, four attempts were made, which ended in failure. The decision to engage in mountaineering did not last long. In 1994, the government banned climbing mountains above 6,000 meters, and since 2004, mountaineering has been completely banned in the country, out of respect for local signs.


In 1998, a Japanese expedition obtained permission from the Chinese Mountaineering Association to climb Gangkhar Puensum north of Bhutan, on the Tibetan side. But the long-standing border dispute with Bhutan did not allow it to happen. Instead, the expedition went to the 7,535-meter neighboring peak Gangkhar-Puensum North, which had not previously been conquered. The climbers came to the conclusion that the expedition to main summit will be successful if it is allowed to organize.


Bhutan itself has also not explored the peak, and the country has no interest in conquering it anytime soon. With the difficulty of obtaining permits from the government, as well as the lack of rescue support, the mountain is likely to remain unclimbed for the foreseeable future.