Unconquered Peaks: The highest mountains in Europe. Machapuchare - unconquered peak

At one time, revered climbers said that they had closed the book of discoveries in mountaineering - there was nothing more to do, they said. But the first car was very far from the fast cars we drive today. Mountaineering legends have paved the way, now a new generation faces the challenge of climbing more difficult routes, or find other vertices.

Mianzimu (6054 m), Tibet, sacred mountain, there were no ascents. Photo by Janne Corax.

One of those who are interested in this is Simone Moreau, by the way, he is. A few years ago, Simone, after a series of explorations, attempted to climb Batura II, a peak that was said to be the highest peak yet to be conquered. Moro could not reach the top - so this mountain still challenges climbers, as well as a number of other peaks that have not yet been set foot by a person.

But what are these mountains, according to what criteria to choose them? Climber, explorer and ExplorersWeb contributor Janne Corax has compiled a list of the six highest untouched peaks, and added other points of interest to the list.

happy to be first

Unconquered peaks are always very attractive. Reach highest point, on which no one has ever been - a special pleasure for the climber. In 1950, Herzog and Lachenal climbed Annapurna - the first eight-thousander that people climbed - thereby opening the "hunt" for 13 other giants. Shisha Pangma was the last to fall under the feet of the Chinese team, 14 years later.

Now high-altitude climbers have turned their minds to slightly lower targets.

Namche Barwa, 7782 m, a difficult mountain to climb with extreme terrain and always bad weather conditions, repelled climbing attempts until a Japanese team managed to reach the summit in 1992. The climbers were also interested in the second peaks of the eight-thousanders, and they surrendered one after another - the last was Lhotse Middle, 8414 m, which was climbed in 2001 by a strong Russian team.

Meili Ridge, view from the Tibetan temple. Mianzimu is on the left, Meili Feng is the highest peak on the right. Photo by Janne Corax.

What's next?

Now the question is, which of the peaks that have not yet been climbed are the most promising?

To answer it, we must first determine the selection criteria. Two of them are obvious: the mountain must be very high and unconquered. The third criterion is precisely the problem and causes a lot of debate:

Real mountains / gendarmes on the ridge

Sometimes it's really a problem to distinguish between the big gendarme on the ridge and the real peak.

For example, many believe that the largest difference in height between the peak of Lhotse Middle and lowest point the jumper that connects it to the higher peak is actually a very small amount.

Unfortunately, there is no absolute standard, and some use a relative difference of 7% as a measure, while others use 400m. If we take into account the 500m limit as a compromise, then the list we need will look like this.

Six highest virgin peaks

Gangkar Punsum, 7570 m - the peak, located in Bhutan, is listed at number 40 in the list of the highest mountain peaks, and, without a doubt, this is "number 1" in our list. An educated person will guess that the mountain will remain under this number for the time being. In the mid-80s, they tried to climb it, but all the expeditions returned without salty slurping. In 1994, Bhutan partially closed the peaks for climbing. And in 2003, the government decided to ban all types of climbing altogether. The reason for such actions lies in the field of understanding local beliefs and traditions.

"Number 2" on our list - Saser Kangri II East, 7518 m. The mountain is located in Indian Kashmir and has never been of interest to climbers (at least there were no expeditions to it). The third highest peak of the massif was climbed twice. It is difficult to obtain a climbing permit in this area, but it is possible. A human foot stepped on the main peak, 7672 m high, in 1973.

Kabru North, 7394 m - the highest point of the Kabru massif, which is essentially a subgroup of the Kanchenjunga massif - has not yet been conquered. Surprisingly, its lower southern peak fell back in 1935. A notable ascent was made by Conrad Cook, who climbed to the summit solo at the age of 18. It was a record for his age.
A Serb team tried to climb Kabru North in 2004, but avalanches forced them to retreat.

Labuche Kang is a little known group of peaks in Tibet. Main summit conquered in 1987 by a Japanese team. Eastern - Labuche Kang III- approximately 7250 m high and still waiting for its first climbers.

Impressive SE wall Karjiang - whose avalanche-prone slopes and complex faces reflect all the attempts of climbers. Photo courtesy of the Dutch Karjiang 2001 expedition.

Karjiang, 7221 m - also located in Tibet. A couple of times they tried to climb on it, but no one managed to step on it yet. hard-to-reach top. Extreme avalanche danger and high technical complexity have so far made climbing attempts fruitless.

"Number 6" on our list - Tongshanjiabu, 7207 m. It rises on the Tibetan / Bhutanese border. Koreans who climbed nearby Shimokangri (7204m) mentioned this peak in their expedition report and published a photo in the Japanese Alpine News - so far this is the only information available about this mountain.

Statements and rumors

I must say that the six peaks listed above will give odds to the others in the debate, if it comes to steepness and the first criterion - untouched by climbers. However, rumors and statements are always present on the climbing scene. Wherever you go, locals or climbers will point you up the mountain and say, “Look here! No one has climbed it yet!

On another level, famous mountaineers sometimes claim the goal of their expedition is "the highest peak yet unclimbed." The last time I heard about this was when in 2004 Moro & Ogwyn, an Italian-American duo, went to Batura II. The 7,762-meter-high giant in Pakistan's Karakoram was, according to them (and "scientific sources"), the highest peak not climbed by man. If you count a gendarme on a ridge with a difference of 100 m in height between its "top" and the main mountain, then this statement, of course, contains some truth, however: there are other high points on the ridges, and some of which are higher than Batura II...*

Untouched celebrities

Pilgrims tend to Mt. Kailash every year. They go around the mountain with prayers, but never set foot on its slopes. Climbing is strictly prohibited. Photo by Project Himalaya.

The most famous of the unclimbed peaks are below those we have named. Kailash V Western Tibet, a mountain sacred to Hindus, Buddhists and followers of the Bön religion. No one has ever climbed to its top, and permits are not issued, since this place is a shrine.

Whole Meili Ridge, known as Kawa Korpo, in the far northeast of China's Yunnan province is also considered sacred to local residents. Some of the peaks of the ridge were attempted to be climbed at a time when climbing permits were issued. On this moment these mountains are closed to climbers.

Mianzimu in the Meili range is considered one of the most beautiful peaks in the world, as is Kailash.

* In one of the interviews, when Simone was asked why he called Batura II the highest of the peaks that no man had climbed, he referred to the data of the expert Wolfgang Hichel and invited those interested in this issue to contact him personally by e-mail [email protected]

Translation by Elena Dmitrenko

Unconquered peaks captivate us ...
We strive there, knocking our feet into the blood ...

WHEN YOU CLIMB TO THE TOP OF THE MOUNTAIN, KEEP CLIMBING FURTHER
(Tibetan lamas)

Machapuchare

The most beautiful mountain peak, which, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition organized by Jimmy Roberts stopped only fifty meters from the summit. Conquer one of the most beautiful mountains The Himalayas were thwarted by a promise made to the government of Nepal. The bottom line is that in Hindu beliefs, it is on the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that the Roberts team kept their promise, the first persons of Nepal immediately closed Machapuchare for any visits.

Kailash


The Tibetan six-thousander is considered sacred mountain representatives of four major religions at once - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the government of China, which has occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not allowed it to be conquered so far. All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who did receive permission from the PRC authorities to conquer Kailas, subsequently refused to climb, and the Spanish expedition in 2000, which bought a pass for an impressive amount, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route, and protests from the UN.

Gangkhar Puensum


highest unconquered summit world, rising above sea level by more than seven and a half thousand meters. Located on disputed territory between Bhutan and China, she could submit to the Japanese expedition of 1998, if official Beijing would still issue permission to climb. The Japanese eventually climbed the nearby Liankang Kangri. Gangkhar Puensum could have fallen even earlier, when mountaineering was already allowed in Bhutan, but a ban on visiting peaks above six thousand meters had not yet been introduced (again due to religious reasons). However, the expeditions of 1985 and 1986 ended in failure.

Tongshanjiabu

The peak, rushing into the sky at 7207 meters, is also located on the constantly contested Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiaba, even before the law "everything above six thousand is impossible." After him, of course, and even more so. At the same time, the neighboring Shimokangri was taken by the Korean expedition, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.

Karjiang


This mountain, whose peak is at an altitude of 7221 meters, has not yet succumbed to human perseverance, not only because of the certain difficulties with which Western expeditions obtain climbing permits from China. Karjiang is now considered one of the most difficult and recalcitrant peaks in the world - the high technical complexity and the extremely high risk of avalanches, coupled with constantly adverse weather conditions, stopped more than one expedition on the way.

Gasherbrum 6


Being in a territory torn apart by political disputes (Pakistani Kashmir) does not particularly create problems for climbers seeking to storm this unruly peak. But by no means the highest (6979 meters above the level) mountain of the Baltoro Muztag ridge gives expeditions much more problems than K2, which is the highest peak of this mountain formation. Many experienced climbers have tripped over Gasherbrum 6.

Despite its modest height, barely exceeding three thousand meters above sea level, the Antarctic volcano Siple remains on the list of unconquered peaks of the world. Apart from its geographical inaccessibility, which, for example, did not prevent climbers from climbing Erebus, no additional difficulties of climbing to the top are known.

Unconquered peaks are always very attractive. To reach the highest point, where no one has ever been, is a special pleasure for a climber. Dare!!!

We warn you: the article is full of beauty and aesthetics, from which the next eight unconquered peaks become even more desirable. Especially if you are extreme, love heights, and have been looking for thrills for a long time.

Gangkhar Puensum

• Height: 7,570 meters
• Location: border between China and Bhutan
• Why not subdued: stupid laws
  

Gangkhar Puensum is located on disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is definitely not disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest of the still unconquered peaks. In the 1980s, four attempts were made to climb, after which a law was passed in Bhutan prohibiting climbing at an altitude above 6 km.

North Face Masherbrum 4

• Height: 7.821 m
• Location: Pakistan
• Why Not Conquered: Extreme Difficulty

Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has climbed yet. The reason is the same - the route as "unrealistically extreme".

The north face of Masherbrum 4 subtly hints: "Don't even try to climb me."

Siple Mountain

• Height: 3.110 m
• Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
• Why not conquered: harsh climate
  

This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but low temperature and distance from the civilized world. There are suspicions that Siple Mountain is actually an extinct volcano covered with a glacier.

Machapuchare

• Height: 6.998 m
• Location: north central Nepal;
• Why not subdued: religion and law

The most beautiful mountain peak, which, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition organized by Jimmy Roberts stopped only fifty meters from the summit. They were prevented from conquering one of the most beautiful mountains of the Himalayas by a promise given to the government of Nepal.

The bottom line is that in Hindu beliefs, it is on the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that the Roberts team kept their promise, the first persons of Nepal immediately closed Machapuchare for any visits.

Kailash

• Height: 6.638 m
• Location: south of the Tibetan Plateau in the Tibetan autonomous region People's Republic of China
• Why not conquered: “sacred” status
  

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered a sacred mountain by representatives of four major religions at once - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the government of China, which has occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not allowed it to be conquered so far.

All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who did receive permission from the PRC authorities to conquer Kailas, subsequently refused to climb, and the Spanish expedition in 2000, which bought a pass for an impressive amount, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route, and protests from the UN.

Tongshanjiabu

• Height: 7.207 m
• Location: central part Himalayas, 12 km northwest of Kangphu Kang
• Why not subdued: laws

The peak, rushing into the sky at 7207 meters, is also located on the constantly contested Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiaba, even before the law "everything above six thousand is impossible." After him, of course, and even more so. At the same time, the neighboring Shimokangri was taken by the Korean expedition, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.

Karjiang

• Height: 7.221 m
• Location: 4 kilometers northeast of Kula Kangri
• Why not conquered: extreme lvl 80
  

This mountain, too, has not yet succumbed to human perseverance. But not only because of certain difficulties with the law. Karjiang is now considered one of the most difficult and recalcitrant peaks in the world - the high technical complexity and the extremely high risk of avalanches, coupled with constantly adverse weather conditions, stopped more than one expedition on the way.

Gasherbrum 6

• Height: 6.979 m
• Location: in the multi-peak Gasherbrum massif of the Baltoro Muztag ridge mountain system Karakorum, located in the disputed territory of Gilgit-Baltistan
• Why not conquered: chores

All the same story as with Masherbrum 4. It is by no means the highest (6979 meters above sea level) mountain of the Baltoro Muztag ridge. But expeditions also cause a lot of trouble, having the honorary title of high peak this mountain formation. Many experienced climbers have tripped over Gasherbrum 6.

Nothing attracts a person like the forbidden. Any taboo has always, in all ages, acted on impudent minds in the same way - as an elementary challenge. How do you think, how does the very existence of "unconquered peaks" affect a professional climber? Answer: awakens desire. Tourists and amateurs have a different reaction: curiosity arises, why hasn’t a human foot set foot on them yet? In this article, we will tell you in detail and interestingly about this mountain, and you can personally look at it in the Annapurna region.

Machapuchare - the forbidden peak, the sacred abode of Shiva

Mount Machapuchare (or Machapuchre - there are certain "difficulties" of Nepalese spelling) is freely spread in the very heart of central Nepal, near the city of Pokhara (distance - about 25 km to the North). The mountain belongs to the southern part of the Annapurna group of mountains and barely falls short of the seven-thousander class, because its 6,998 meters is already difficult to attribute to a real six-thousander, but, as they say, a fact is a fact.

Why is Machapuchare so famous?

• Incredible beauty look. Anyone who has seen the mountain at least in the pictures, not to mention contemplation with their own eyes, will agree with this. Its double peak has such a pronounced and steep peak that it seems to pierce the defenseless sky. When you are on the west side of Machapuchare, you can understand why it is named " fish tail"(literal translation). A little play of imagination - and you will clearly see the figure of the tail of a huge fish, with fins on paired tops. From time to time, a crystal white, shining haze of a snowy shawl envelops the mountain, focusing the beholder's attention even more strongly on the greatness, confident power and even the mythical power of the mountain.

• The mountain is still considered unconquered. Not only is it really unusually difficult to climb, but also in 1957, the government of Nepal made an unambiguous decision - to close Mount Machapuchare for mountaineering in view of its religious value for local population, which considers the mountain the sacred dwelling of Shiva himself, and the snowy haze on its top - the aura of his divine essence. By the way, we saw such an aura during the trek to the Annapurna base camp in October 2014. A very mesmerizing and unusual sight! See for yourself in the photo.

To make an unauthorized attempt to climb the mountain means not only to give a damn about the religious feelings of the Nepalese, but also to violate a clear administrative norm of the law, which entails severe responsibility. (For the curious, it should be noted that the death penalty still not threatened - abolished in 1990, but section XIX of the Nepalese penal code is devoted to religious crimes, for which it is unlikely that you will simply be severely reprimanded).

• Machapuchare has a twin brother Matterhorn (Alps), so many people want to compare them live. The mechanism is simple: I saw one mountain -> I was amazed -> I found out that there is another very similar mountain in the world -> I decided to check it myself. See for yourself: is there a resemblance or not?

• Additional attention to Machapuchara is attracted by the nearby base camp Annapurna the first, the so-called Annapurna Sanctuary. This mountain valley amazing beauty is famous place mountain tourism, a source of inspiration, a conqueror of human hearts and souls.

Has a human foot really set foot on the top of Machapuchare?

The fact that the mountain is closed for climbing does not mean that no one has ever tried to climb this amazing peak. Official sources it is vociferously claimed that there has been only one unfinished attempt by a British expedition to climb the mountain in all of history. Remarkably, this was done in the same year when the official ban on climbing was adopted, in the same 1957. However, there are rumors among climbers that a well-known lone adventurer from New Zealand named Bill Denz in the 1980s conquered this mountain at his own peril and risk. Rumor has it that he managed to climb several more mountain peaks prohibited by law for climbing. Being a secretive person, he took the secret of the reality of his ascent to Machapuchara with him to another world when he fell under an avalanche in 1983 during his next adventure. In fairness, it must be said that there are some legal little-known inhabitants mountain slopes Machapuchare, which you can safely walk along the slopes of the mountain. These are Tibetan eared hedgehogs living here and nowhere else, and it is already a great success to see them.

Attempt to climb Machapuchara in 1957 in detail

To talk about Machapuchara and not tell about the British expedition of 1957 is a crime. Therefore, it is worth briefly talking about their achievement, which is described in detail and artistically in the book Climbing the Fish "s Tail" (1958) by one of the real participants in that ascent - Wilfrid Noyce.

The most difficult and dangerous route chosen by the expedition was the most optimal and most acceptable of all alternatives. The beginning of the climbing attempt is dated 04/18/1957 from Pokhara and 06/02/1957 the climbers gave up, as they lost the exact coordinates of the desired peak, heavy snow began to fall, and the transition to a steep slope after a crack in the snow-ice slope (bergschrund) was almost insurmountable, and standing behind it, the sheer wall was entirely made of ice. The whim of nature drove the climbers from the summit, because their further ascent was more than a sure threat to life.

A real sensation in the mountaineering environment was the publication in many newspapers in 1957 of texts that Machapuchare was conquered. However, this is not true, because the British climbers could not overcome the last 50 meters to the peak. It was they who failed to overcome, and did not stop on their own initiative, so as not to hurt the religious feelings of the inhabitants. You can imagine how insulting it was for the climbers who were one step away from accomplishment, and yet it would have been credited to them if they climbed to the top without reaching it to a conventional height (for example, the “officially completed” ascent to Kangchenjunga in 1955 was stopped 1.5 meters from the summit as a sign of respect and respect for the local religion).

This is how it all ended, but believers find sacred meaning in this. Say, unwanted guests in the house of Shiva should be so glad that they returned alive! Doesn't anyone understand that this is a lesson for all the next comers! Who does not know the truth that the lessons must be properly understood and responded to appropriately? As a result, henceforth - not a single living soul will climb the mountain!

We do not offer you to climb to the top of Machapuchare, but you can look at it from all sides and take pictures from various angles in our programs:

Schedule of upcoming tracks in Nepal, join us!

Photos from open sources

Mountain peaks can safely be called one of geological wonders light, they conquer, they fascinate and beckon, push to exploits and inspire creativity. The European ranges with their heights cannot compete with the "abode of snow" Himalayas, but among them there are those that are worthy of attention. Below is a list of the ten highest mountains in Europe.

10. Bazarduzu/Kichensuv

Height: 4,466 m (Azerbaijan)

The top of Bazarduzu opens the rating, which means “market square” in Turkic. The mountain received another name from the indigenous population of Dagestan - the Lezgins and sounds like Kichensuv, "mountain of fear." It is part of the Dividing Array Greater Caucasus and is located on the border of Dagestan and Azerbaijan. For the first time this peak was conquered by people in the middle 19th century(1847). Then the expedition was headed by the Russian explorer-topographer A. Alexandrov. A feature of the mountain is its ice wall on the eastern side.

9. Matterhorn

Altitude: 4,478 m above sea level (Switzerland/Italy)

In ninth place is a native of the Pennine Alps - Matterhorn with a curved peak, reminiscent of a cap that separates two ski resort: Swiss Zermat and Italian Breuil-Cervinia. Until 1865, this sharp peak inspired people not anyhow what fear because of which the Matterhorn was the last of the conquered peaks in the Alps. The pioneers were the team of climbers Eduard Whymper of 6 people. However, four of them tragically died, they fell into the abyss as a result of a rope break.

8. Vicechron

Altitude: 4,506 m above sea level (Switzerland)

Eighth in the ranking, the peak of Weisschron, located on the territory of the Peniny Alps. It separates the two states of Italy and Switzerland, although most of ridge is located in Swiss mountains. Weischron first succumbed to humans in 1861. Then the young physicist Tyndall and the guides Wenger and Bennen climbed to its top. This mountain giant is known as one of the most difficult and dangerous, there are frequent cases of avalanches and deaths.

7. Liskamm

Altitude: 4,527 m (Switzerland/Italy)

The ten mountain titans of Europe include a hill named "cannibal". The mountain was so nicknamed because of the frequent snow avalanches, sharp rocks and dangerous hanging snow blocks. It is located in the region Western Alps and consists of two heights, one of which has an indicator of 4,527 meters. The first ascent dates back to 1891. Then a group of climbers of 14 people went along the eastern ridge.

6. House

Height: 4,545 m (Switzerland)

In the place where the Pienine Alps are located and mountain range With beautiful name Mishabel, there is a peak - Dom. The complex shape of this mountain consists of five hills that are so close to each other that they resemble the teeth of a pitchfork. The summit was first conquered by the Englishman Davis with German guides on September 11, 1858.

5. Dufour

Altitude: 4,634 m (Switzerland/Italy)

Peak Dufour is located in the Pienine Alps. It was named after the Swiss commander and engineer who developed military map southwest Switzerland. The top is included mountain range Monte Rosa. It differs from its Alpine counterparts in its fiery red rocks. The first trip to Dufour took place in 1855 by a joint group of Swiss and English climbers.

4. Mont Blanc

Height: 4,810 m (France)

Mont Blanc is located on the border of France and Italy. It rises in the western part of the Alps and is a 50 km long crystalline massif, in the depths of which a tunnel has been laid connecting the two states. The mention of the ascent of Mont Blanc by Jacques Balma and Dr. Michel Packard is dated August 8, 1786. And in 1808 the first woman with the heavenly surname Paradis reached the “white peak”. The mountain section headed by Mont Blanc is a sought-after mountain tourism center, where famous resorts are located.

3. Shkhara

Height: 5,200 m (Georgia)

The central part of the Main Range of the Caucasus is headed by the third highest peak in Europe. It is inferior to Dykhtau by only 4 meters, but the interest in it is huge because of the affordable and easy climbing opportunities. The first travelers from Sweden conquered the mountain in 1888, and climbers Soviet Union climbed Shkhara a little later, in 1933. Today Caucasian peak accepts numerous groups of tourists and climbers.

2. Dykhtau

Height: 5,204 m (Russia)

Second place belongs to the Russian mountain top Dykhtau, located in the lands of the Kabardino-Balkarian Reserve. The first trip to its peak was successfully made by Europeans at the end of the 19th century: the Swiss Zarflu and the British Mummery.

1. Elbrus

Height: 5,642 m (Russia)

The first place goes to Russia, where the highest peak of Europe, Elbrus, is located. For the first time this mountain succumbed to man in 1829, when a scientific expedition was organized, led by General Emmanuel, who received the honorary title of member of the St. Petersburg Academy of Sciences as a result. Elbrus nourishes major rivers Stavropol and the Caucasus with its glaciers and is of great interest to athletes and tourists. Included in the list the highest peaks parts of the world "Seven Peaks".