The Caucasus Mountains are the highest peak and its height. Caucasus mountains. Relief, climate of the Caucasus Mountains. Mountain system, location of the Caucasus mountains

In the ridge Caucasus mountains is Elbrus. It is also considered the whole of Europe. Its location is such that several peoples live around it, who call it differently. Therefore, if you hear such names as Alberis, Oshkhomakho, Mingitau or Yalbuz, know that they mean the same thing.

In this article, we will introduce you closer to the most high mountain in the Caucasus - Elbrus, which was once active volcano, and occupying the fifth place on the planet, among the mountains formed in the same way.

The height of the Elbrus peaks in the Caucasus

As already mentioned, the highest mountain in Russia is dormant volcano. This is precisely the reason why its top does not have a pointed shape, but looks like a two-peak cone, between which there is a saddle at an altitude of 5 km 200 m. Two peaks located at a distance of 3 km from each other are different: the eastern one is 5621 m, and the western one is 5642 m. The reference always indicates a great value.

Like all former volcanoes, Elbrus consists of two parts: a rock pedestal, in this case it is 700 m, and an artificial cone formed after eruptions (1942 m).

Starting from a height of 3500 m, the surface of the mountain is covered with snow. First, mixed with scatterings of stones, and then turning into a uniform white cover. The most famous Elbrus glaciers are Terskop, Big and Small Azau.

The temperature at the top of Elbrus practically does not change and is -1.4°C. Drops out here a large number of rainfall, but because of this temperature regime, it is almost always snow, so the glaciers do not melt. Since the snow cap of Elbrus is visible all year round for many kilometers, the mountain is also called "Small Antakrtida".


The glaciers located at the top of the mountain feed the most big rivers these places - Kuban and Terek.

Climbing Elbrus

To see the beautiful view from the top of Elbrus, you need to climb it. It is quite simple to do this, since you can get to a height of 3750 m along the southern slope on a pendulum or chairlift. Here is a shelter for travelers "Barrels". It consists of 12 insulated trailers for 6 people and a stationary kitchen. They are equipped so that they can wait out any bad weather, even for a long time.

The next stop is usually made at an altitude of 4100 m in the Shelter of Eleven Hotel. The parking lot here was established in the 20th century, but was destroyed by fire. Then a new building was built in its place.

For the first time, the peaks of Elbrus were conquered in 1829 on the east and in 1874 on the west.


Now the Donguzorun and Ushba massifs, as well as the Adylsu, Adyrsu and Shkheldy gorges are popular with climbers. Increasingly, mass ascents to the peaks are organized. On the south side is the ski resort "Elbrus Azau". It consists of 7 tracks, with a total length of 11 km. They are suitable for both beginners and advanced skiers. A distinctive black of this resort is freedom of movement. On all routes there is a minimum number of fences and dividers. It is recommended to visit it from October to May during this period there is the strongest snow.


Elbrus, at the same time, is a very beautiful and dangerous mountain. Indeed, according to scientists, there is a possibility that in the next 100 years the volcano will wake up, and then all nearby regions (Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachay-Cherkessia) will suffer.


In clear weather, the top of the mountain Kezgen(4011 m) gives a unique opportunity to observe a rich and cheerful picture from the outside Central Caucasus. You can see almost all the main and secondary mountain ranges Main Caucasian Range, regions Tyutyus, Adyrsu, Chegema, Bezengi, Adylsu, Yusengi and upper Baksan Gorge, and over the passes and less high peaks of the GKH, distant prospects of mountains open Svaneti. On the opposite side of the horizon, the Caucasian monarch Elbrus shows a strictly end-to-end symmetrical view of its Eastern peak.

The source material of the publication is photographs taken from the top of the mountain Kezgen in July 2007 and July 2009. They formed the basis two basic panoramas.

PANORAMA-1:– evening panorama (July 2007). It covers the GKH sector from the Bezengi wall to Chatyn, as well as the areas of the spurs of the Main ridge descending to the Russian side - Chegem, Adyrsu and Adylsu.

PANORAMA-2:– morning panorama (July 2009). Partially overlapping Panorama-1, it represents the GKH sector from the Bezengi wall to Azau, the Russian spurs of the GKH - Adyrsu, Adylsu, Yusengi, Kogutai and Cheget, the Azau-Elbrus jumper, as well as South-Eastern (with Terskolak peak) and Vostochny (with Irikchat peak ) spurs of Elbrus.

Attached to the two main panoramas additional PANORAMA-3(July 2007). It gives a view of the spurs of the Eastern Elbrus in the Subashi-Kyrtyk-Mukal sector from the pass of Russian officers (which is near the top of Kezgen, 150 m below it).

Together, these three panoramas cover the entire viewing circle.

Camera- Nikon 8800.

More about Kezgen peak.
Kezgen is located in the highest of the eastern spurs of Elbrus - that stretches from the peak hanging over its ice fields Chatkara(3898 m) to the villages of Elbrus and Neutrino in the Baksan valley. The spur has a number of left branches towards the Subashi, Kyrtyk and Syltransu rivers, while it borders the Irikchat river valley and, after its confluence with the Irik, the Irik valley with its left side. The main peak in this spur is Irikchat(4054 m), slightly inferior to her Subashi(3968 m) in the northwest and the equally high duo Kezgen - Soviet warrior(4011 m) in the southeast.

The ascent to Kezgen is beautiful, pleasant and uncomplicated. The beginning of the movement towards Kezgen, the Soviet warrior and Irikchat is common - from the floodplain of the Irikchat river on a grassy slope, along a path that is clearly visible from afar. Then the paths diverge, the Kezgen path takes to the right. Upon reaching the scree slopes, it is lost on the upper traverses, but with sufficient visibility past the take-off opening to the left to the pass of Russian officers (tourist 1B) you can’t miss. The exit from the pass saddle to the summit (along the north-eastern ridge) is also simple - 1B climbing. (Kezgen was sometimes visited by climbers as part of the traverse Kezgen - a Soviet warrior, who was known in the Adylsu camps as a kind of exile.)

Kezgen is the nearest four-thousander north of Baksan, the peaks closer to the river are much lower. This advantageous feature of its location and the unpretentiousness of the route make Kezgen an excellent observation point.

PANORAMAS, SIGNS, INTERPRETATION.

PANORAMA-1 (more than 800 Kb, 8682 x 850 pixels) in its original form:

PANORAMA-1 with peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges marked on it:

PANORAMA-2 (more than 1.2 Mb, 10364 x 1200 pixels) in its original form:

PANORAMA-2 with peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges marked on it:

Additional PANORAMA-3 - view to the northeast in the valley of the Mukal glacier:

Accepted designations and general principles.

On the panorama are marked:

Mountain peaks- colored circles
passes- crosses,
glaciers- rectangles,
gorges (river valleys)- double wave.

At passes, glaciers and gorges, the numbering is continuous, from right to left.

All signs glaciers And gorges blue. Signs passes And peaks painted in different colors, depending on their belonging to a particular mountainous region.

The color differentiation of the icons helps to more clearly represent and trace the location of the various mountain regions visible in the panorama, especially where they overlap.

Used colors:

- dense green: for objects outside the State border of the Russian Federation,
- red: for the peaks and passes of the GKH,
- purple light: for the peaks of the Bezengi region outside the GKH,
- orange: for peaks and passes in the Adyrsu ridge,
– clear yellow: for peaks and passes in the Adylsu ridge,
- dirty yellow: for peaks and passes in the Yusengi ridge,
– purple dark: for peaks and passes in the Kogutai spur of Donguzorun,
- pale green: for peaks and passes of the South-Eastern spur of Elbrus,
- pale plum: for the peaks and passes of the Elbrus-Azau lintel,
– light brown: for the peaks and passes of the ridge in the upper reaches of the Irik and Irikchat,
- white: for peaks and passes of the Eastern spur of Elbrus,
– blue: for peaks and passes in short spurs of the GKH (apex circles in this case in a red rim), as well as in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridges (apex circles in an orange rim) and Adylsu (apex circles in a yellow rim).

1. MOUNTAINS

Note. The heights of the peaks indicated below in some cases differ from those given by the "Classification of routes to mountain peaks" (hereinafter "Classifier"). These heights are given mainly according to the maps of the General Staff (hereinafter "General Staff") built on the basis of the results of methodically homogeneous measurements within the framework of a unified topographic program of the Soviet era. Altitude data are given by the General Staff with an accuracy of up to 0.1 meters, but it should, of course, be borne in mind that such an enviable accuracy could only claim to cover random measurement errors, and not systematic errors of the measurement technique itself.

1.1. TOPS IN GEORGIA

1 - Tetnuld, 4853 m
2 - Svetgar, 4117 m
3 - Asmashi, 4082 m
4 - Marianna (Maryanna), 3584 m
5 - Lekzyr (Dzhantugansky), 3890 m
6 - Chatyn Glavny, 4412 m
7 - Ushba North, 4694 m
8 - Ushba South, 4710 m
9 - Cherinda, 3579 m
10 - Dolra, 3832 m
11 - Shtavleri, 3994 m

1.2. TOPS OF THE MAIN CAUCASIAN RIDGE (GKH)

1 - Bezengi wall (details on enlarged panorama fragment)
2 - Gestola, 4860 m
3 - Lyalver, 4366 m
4 - Tichtengen, 4618 m
5 - Bodorku, 4233 m
6 - Bashiltau, 4257 m
7 - Sarykol, 4058 m
8 - Ullutau massif, 4277 m
9 - Latsga, 3976 m
10 - Chegettau, 4049 m
11 - Aristov rocks (3619 m - Kaluga peak)
12 - Dzhantugan, 4012 m
13 - Bashkara, 4162 m
14 - Ullukara, 4302 m
15 - Free Spain, 4200 m
16 - Bzhedukh, 4280 m
17 - Eastern Caucasus, 4163 m
18 - Shchurovsky, 4277 m
19 - Chatyn West, 4347
20 - Ushba Malaya, 4254 m
21 - Eastern Shkhelda, 4368 m
22 - Shkhelda Central, 4238 m
23 - Aristov (Shkhelda 3rd Western), 4229
24 - Shkhelda 2nd Western, 4233 m
25 - Western Shkhelda, 3976 m
26 - Trade unions, 3957 m
27 - Athlete, 3961 m
28 - Shkhelda Malaya, 4012 m
29 - Akhsu, 3916 m
30 - Yusengi Uzlovaya, 3846 m
31 - Gogutai, 3801 m
32 - Donguzorun East, 4442 m
33 - Donguzorun Main, 4454 m
34 - Donguzorun West, 4429 m
35 - Nakratau, 4269 m
36 - Chiper, 3785 m
37 - Chiperazau, 3512 m

Peaks in short spurs of the GKH

1 - Germogenov, 3993 m
2 - Chegetkara, 3667 m
3 - Main Caucasus, 4109 m
4 - Western Caucasus, 4034 m
5 - Donguzorun Small, 3769 m
6 - Cheget, 3461 m

1.3. TOPS OF THE BEZENGI DISTRICT

1 - Dykhtau, 5205 m (5204.7 according to the map of the General Staff, 5204 according to the Classifier and Lyapin's scheme)
2 - Koshtantau, 5152 m (5152.4 according to the map of the General Staff, 5150 according to the Classifier, 5152 according to the Lyapin scheme)
3 - Ulluauz, 4682 m (4681.6 according to the map of the General Staff, 4675 according to the Classifier, 4676 according to the Lyapin scheme)
4 - Thought, 4677 m (4676.6 according to the map of the General Staff, 4557 according to the Classifier, 4681 according to the Lyapin scheme)

1.4. TOPS OF ADYRSU DISTRICT

1 - Adyrsubashi, 4370 m (4346)
2 - Orubashi, 4369 m (4259)
3 - Yunomkara, 4226 m
4 - Kichkidar, 4360 m (4269)
5 - Jailyk, 4533 m (4424)

From the Dzhailik massif, the Adyrsu ridge is divided into two branches:
(a) the northwestern branch,
(b) northeast branch.

Peaks of the northwestern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:

6a - Tyutyubashi, 4460 m (4404)
7a - Sullukol, 4259 m (4251)
8а - Steel, 3985 m

Peaks of the northeastern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:

6b - Kenchat, 4142 m
7b - Aurel, 4056 m (4064)
8b - Kayarta, 4082 m (4121)
9b - Kilar, 4000 m (4087)
10b - Sakashil, 4054 m (4149)

Peaks in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridge:

from Adyrsubashi
a - Khimik, 4087 m
b - Moskovsky Komsomolets, 3925 m
s - Triangle, 3830 m

From Jailyk
d - Chegem, 4351 m

From the city of Tyutubashi
e - Cullumkol, 4055 m (4141)
f - Theremin, 3950 m (3921)

From Kilar
g - Adzhikol (Adzhikolbashi, Adzhikolchatbashi), 3848 m (4126).

1.5. TOPS OF ADYLSU DISTRICT

(in parentheses - heights according to the Lyapin scheme, if there is a difference)

1 - Kurmychi, 4045 m
2 - Andyrchi Uzlovaya, 3872 m
3 - Andyrtau (Andyrchi), 3937 m
4 - MPR (peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic): Northeast 3830 m (3838), Central 3830 m (3849), Southwest 3810 m (3870).

Peaks in the spurs of the Adylsu ridge towards the Adyrsu valley:

1.6. TOPS OF THE YUSENGI RIDGE

1 - Yusengi, 3870 m
2 - Yusengi Severnaya, 3421 m. According to the tradition, apparently dating back to the map of the General Staff, the names of these two peaks are confused with each other

1.7. Peaks of the Kogutai Spur of Donguzorun

1 - Interkosmos, 3731 m
2 - Small Kogutai, 3732 m
3 - Big Kogutai, 3819 m
4 - Baksan, 3545 m
5 - Kahiani (Donguzorungitchechatbashi), 3367 m
6 - Canteen, 3206 m.

1.8 TOPS IN THE LINK BETWEEN GKH AND ELBRUS

1 - Azaubashi, 3695 m
2 - Ullukambashi, 3762 m

1.9 TOPS OF THE SOUTH-EASTERN SPINK OF ELBRUS

1 - Terskol, 3721 m
2 - Terskolak, 3790 m
3 - Sarykolbashi, 3776 m
4 - Artykkaya, 3584 m
5 - Tegeneklibashi, 3502 m

1.10 THE TOP OF THE RIDGE IN THE UPPER REACH OF THE IRIK AND IRIKCHAT GORGONS

1 - Achkeryakolbashi (Askerkolbashi), 3928 m
2 - Red hillock, 3730 m

1.11 TOPS OF THE EASTERN SPINK OF ELBRUS

1 - Irikchat West, 4046 m
2 - Irikchat Central, 4030 m
3 - Irikchat East, 4020 m
4 - Soviet warrior, 4012 m

1.12 TOPS IN THE NORTH-EAST (ON THE SIDE OF THE MUKAL GLACIER)
Shown separately on PANORAMA-3

Islamchat (3680 m)
Shukambashi (3631 m)
Jaurgen (3777 m)
Suaryk (3712 m)
Kyrtyk (3571 m)
Mukal (3899 m)

2. PASSES

1 - Hunaly Yuzh, 2B - connects the valleys of Hunalychat (tributary of Sakashilsu) and Kayarty (l. Kayart)
2 - Kayarta Zap, 2A - between the peaks of Kilar and Adzhikol
3 - Kayarta, 1B - between the peaks of Kayarta and Kilar
4 - Sternberga, 2A - between the peaks of Orel and Kayart
5 - Kilar, 1B - between the peaks of Kenchat and Orelyu
6 - Vodopadny, 1B - in the northern spur of Stal peak
7 - Sullukol, 1B - in the western spur of the peak Stal
8 - Spartakiad, 2A* - between the Tyutubashi massif and the top of the Spartakiad
9 - Kullumkol, 1B - between the Tyutubashi massif and the peak of Kullumkol
10 - Tyutyu-Dzhailik, 3A - between the top of Dzhailik and the Tyutubashi massif
11 - Chegemsky, 2B - in the shoulder of the city of Kichkidar
12 - Kichkidar, 2B - between the peaks of Yunomkara and Kichkidar
13 - Freshfield, 2B - between the peaks of Orubashi and Yunomkara
14 - Golubeva, 2A - between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi
15 - Garnet, 1A - in the northern spur of the peak of the Navy
16 - Kurmy, 1A - in the northern spur of the peak of the Navy
17 - Dzhalovchat, 1B - between the peaks of Fizkulturnik and the Navy
18 - Mestiisky, 2A - between the peaks of Ullutau and Sarykol
19 - Churlenisa Vost, 3A * - between Yesenin peak and Gestola shoulder
20 - Svetgar, 3A - between the peaks of Svetgar and Tot
21 - Dzhantugan, 2B - between the top of Dzhantugan and the rocks of Aristov
22 - Marianna, 3A - between the peaks of Marianna and Svetgar
23 - Bashkara, 2B * - between the peaks of Bashkara and Dzhantugan
24 - Pobeda, 3B - between the peaks of Ullukar and Bashkara
25 - Kashkatash, 3A * - between the peak of Free Spain and the top of Ullukar
26 - Double, 3A - between the peak of the Caucasus Vost and the peak of Bzhedukh
27 - Saddle of the Caucasus, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and East
28 - Krenkelya, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and Zap
29 - Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks of Chatyn Zap and M. Ushba
30 - Ushbinsky, 3A - between the arrays of Ushba and Shkhelda
31 - Bivachny, 2B * - between the peaks of Athlete and Trade Unions
32 - Yusengi, 2B - between the peaks of Yusengi and Yusengi North
33 - Medium, 2B - between Malaya Shkhelda peak and Fizkulturnika peak
34 - Rodina, 2A (when moving along the buttress from the side of the Yusengi valley) - between the peaks of Yusengi and Yusengi Uzlovaya
35 - Akhsu, 2A - between the peaks of Yusengi Uzlovaya and Akhsu
36 - Becho, 1B - in the ridge of the GKH between peaks 3506 and 3728, it is also the lowest pass in the GKH section between Donguzorun and the Yusengi ridge and the closest to the top of Yusengi Uzlovaya.
37 - Becho False, 1B - in the ridge of the GKH west of peak 3506 and east of the lane. Olympian
38 - Yusengi Peremetny, 1B - glacial crossing through the short eastern spur of the Gogutai peak
39 - High Dolra, 2A - at the gathering of the GKH from the top of Vost. Donguzorun under Gogutai peak.
40 - Shepherd (Okhotsky), 1A - connects the Yusengi gorge with the upper Kogutayka
41 - Vladimir Korshunov, 1B - between the top of Big Kogutai and Baksan peak
42 - Pearl of Primorye, 1B * - between the peaks of Big and Small Kogutai
43 - Kogutai, 1B - between Interkosmos peak and Maly Kogutai peak
44 - Seven, 3B * - between the peaks of Nakra and Donguzorun West
45 - Donguzorun False, 1B - the pass closest to the top of Nakra (from the west) through the GKH
46 - Donguzorun, 1A - the easiest and lowest pass through the GKH to the west of Nakra peak, located west of the pass Donguzorun False.
47 - Suakkalar, 1B * - between the peaks of Artykkaya and Sarykolbashi
48 - Sarykol (conditional name), 1B * - between the peaks of Sarykolbashi and Terskolak
49 - Chiper, 1B * - the pass closest to the top of Chiper through the GKH between the peaks of Chiper and Chiperazau
50 - Chiperazau, 1A - the pass closest to the peak of Chiperazau through the GKH between the peaks of Chiper and Chiperazau
51 - Azau, 1A - between the peaks of Chiperazau and Azaubashi
52 - Khasankoysuryulgen, 1B - between the peaks of Azaubashi and Ullukambashi
53 - Terskolak, 1B - in the ridge under the top of Terskolak to the north of it
54 - Terskol, 1B * - between the top of Terskol and the ice slopes of Elbrus
55 - Assol, 1B - the more southern of the neighboring passes connecting the Irik glacier and a small "internal" glacial cirque between the upper reaches of the Irik and Irikchat gorges
56 - Frezi Grant, 1B - pass in the same summit circus as per. Assol (No. 55), north of it
57 - Irik-Irikchat, 2A - in the ridge between the glaciers Irik and Irikchat south of the top of Achkeryakolbashi
58 - Chat Elbrussky, 1B * - in the ridge between the glaciers Irik and Irikchat ridge to the west of the top of Achkeryakolbashi
59 - Irikchat, 1B * - between the Irikchat glacier and the peak of Chatkara

PASSES IN THE NORTH-EAST, IN THE SIDE OF THE MUKAL GLACIER (without numbering, shown separately on PANORAMA-3):

Mukal-Mkyara, 1B
Mukal-Mkyara false, 3A
Voruta, 1A
Ritenok, 1B
Baumanets, 2A
Khibiny, 1B
Zemprohodtsev, 1B

3. GLACIERS

1 - Kayarta Western (No. 485-b)
2 - Aurel (No. 485-a)
3 - Sullukol (No. 491)
4 - Yunom Severny (No. 487-d)
5 - Yun (No. 487-b)
6 - Nitrogen (No. 492-b)
7 - East Kurmy (No. 498)
8 - Adyrsu East (No. 493rd)
9 - Bashkara (No. 505)
10 - Kashkatash (No. 508)
11 - Bzhedukh (No. 509)
12 – Ushba icefall
13 - Shkheldinsky (No. 511)
14 - Akhsu (No. 511-b)
15 - No. 511-a
16 - Yusengi (No. 514)
17 - No. 515-b
18 - Ozengi (No. 515-a)
19 - No. 517-b
20 - Kogutai East (No. 517-a)
21 - Kogutai Western
22 – № 518
23 – № 519
24 – № 520
25 – № 538
26 - No. 537-b
27 - No. 537-a
28 – № 536
29 - Big Azau (No. 529)
30 – Garabashi
31 – Terskol
32 - Irik (No. 533)
33 – Irikchat
Mukal Glacier - see Additional PANORAMA-3

4. RIVER BASINS (GORKS)

1 - Cullumkol
2 - Sullukol
3 - Vodopadnaya (these three rivers: 1, 2, 3 are the right tributaries of the Adyrsu river)
4 - Shkhelda (Adylsu tributary)
5 - Yusengi
6 - Kogutaika (these two rivers: 5 and 6 are the right tributaries of the Baksan)
7 - Irik
8 - Irikchat (the last two rivers - 7 and 8 - left tributaries of the Baksan)

ENLARGED FRAGMENTS OF THE MAIN PANORAMAS.

a) Tyutyu-Bashi and Dzhailik.

array Tyutyu-Bashi(4460 m) on this fragment of the panorama is turned to us by the western end, so that all five of its peaks are lined up: Western(4350 m), Second Western(4420 m), Central(4430 m), home(4460 m) and Eastern(4400 m). The massif breaks off in the Tyutyu-Su gorge (left in the picture) with the Northern Wall with routes up to category 6A.

To the right of Tyutyu is located Jailyk(4533 m), the highest peak of the Adyrsu ridge and, note, the third highest in the Baksan valley and the Elbrus region, after Elbrus (5642 m) and Ushba (4710 m). On the right, from behind Dzhailik, peeks out Chegem(4351 m), famous for complex rock walls up to category 6A. Near Chegem, they usually drive through the Chegem Gorge, located between the Baksan and Bezengi Gorges parallel to the first.

In the foreground in the center is the Sullukol glacier. On the picture you can also see the Tyutyu-Dzhailik (3A) passes, it is between the peaks of Dzhailik and Tyutyu-Bashi, and Kullumkol (1B), between the peaks of Tyutyu-Bashi and Cullumcol(4055 m), the latter is visible under Dzhailik against its background. All of them are marked on the general panorama.

b) Koshtantau and Dykhtau.

Pictured on the left before us Koshtantau(5152 m), or simply Koshtan. This is the peak of the "technical Caucasus" - the highest mountain in the Caucasus with a route of the sixth category of difficulty, 6A on the left side of the central buttress of the Northern Wall. The route was first climbed in 1961 by a team from Bauman (MVTU, Moscow, leader Arnold Simonik), who dedicated it to the flight of German Titov, "cosmonaut number two". On a slightly higher peak Dykhtau "sixes" are not classified. Traverse Dykhtau-Koshtan was a "six", but at times he was undressed. The Koshtan-Dykh traverse with the ascent to Koshtan along 6A is completely illogical, and there are no "sixes" to the roof of the Caucasus - Elbrus, if not to talk about climbing to the top after passing the Kyukyurtlyu wall - which, you see, is also an illogical option.

From the left to Koshtan along the Northern ridge leads the “British” ridge 4B (G. Vulei, 1889), this is the easiest way to the top. (A peak in the GKH is named after Vuleya north of the peak Shchurovsky. It is curious that Herman Wooley - Hermann Wooley, in some sources Woolley - came to mountaineering, already being a football player and boxer). In the lower part of the ridge, a characteristic hump is visible - an ice gendarme. The lower, most difficult part of the route - the ascent from the Mizhirgi glacier to the Northern ridge of Koshtan - is hidden behind the peak Panoramic(4176 m), which is in the spur Ulluauza(4682 m). Approaches to Koshtan from this side are extremely dreary, you have to go through all the steps of the Mizhirga icefall, of which there are three only up to overnight stays "3900", and there is also a zone of cracks located above. The first two steps pass along the moraine and then along the ice, adhering to the left (along the way) side of the glacier, and the third is bypassed along the scree on the left and go to the overnight stays "3900", the highest in the area.

In the foreground of the image is an array Adyrsubashi(4370 m). To the left, to the Golubev pass (2A, 3764 m), the North-Eastern ridge stretches from it with many gendarmes. Climbing Adyrsubashi along this ridge is a very long "five A". The Golubeva Pass itself remained to the left of the frame, it is located in a depression between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi and connects the upper reaches of the Adyrsu and Chegem, serving faithfully one of the most popular tourist routes.

Adyrsubashi is the nodal peak of the Adyr ridge. Its western spur asserts itself as peaks Chemist(4087 m), Ozernaya(4080 m), Moscow's comsomolets(3925 m) and Triangle(3830 m), behind this peak there is a descent towards the Ullutau alpine camp. Khimik and Ozernaya peaks are two snow humps with rock outcrops, in the picture they are to the left and below Adyrsubashi. From Ozernaya (to the right of Khimik and closer to us) a small Azot glacier flows into the Kullumkol valley (to the left). He received this “chemical” name by the name of the alpine camp, which operated (since 1936) from the eponymous DSO of workers in the chemical industry. In 1939, eight (!) alpine camps operated in the Adyrsu gorge. The fate of "Azot" was the most successful, now it is the alpine camp "Ullutau".

To the north-west of the Ozernaya peak in our direction, bordering the Azot glacier, a spur departs, in which the peak can be traced Panoramic, he is the peak Winter(3466 m), which received such a name in the everyday life of the Ullutau alpine camp as an object of low ascents during the winter shifts of the camp. Another spinal branch of the Ozernaya peak (to the right in the picture) leads to Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, the top of which falls exactly on the right cut of this fragment. Array in the background Mizhirgi with distinguishable Eastern summit (4927 m). Western Mizhirgi(5025 m) and the Second Western Mizhirgi, better known as the peak Borovikov(4888 m), almost indistinguishable in the ridge going from Eastern Mizhirga to Dykhtau.

On the right picture we have an array Dykhtau(5205 m), or simply Dykh. In the foreground near the left section of the fragment is Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, from which the crest of the ridge stretches to the low Triangle peak at the bottom in the center of the frame (both peaks were mentioned above in the comments on Koshtantau). In the distance are two peaks, more often attributed to the Chegem region: a huge Tichtengen(4618 m), standing in the GKH between the peaks of Ortokara and Kitlod, and - a little closer, against its background - the peak facing us with a snowy slope Bodorka(4233 m), also located in the GKH.

c) Bezengi wall.


On this fragment, approximately in profile, the entire Bezengi wall is visible, stretching in an arc from Shkhara to Lyalver. This unconventional angle can puzzle even seasoned experts in the area, it painfully "successfully" merges with the Bezengi wall of Gestol.

On the left of the image you can see the long NE-ridge of the "classical" ascent to Shkhara(5069 m) along 5A - the route of D. Kokkin (J.G. Cockin, 1888). It was first climbed by the British-Swiss troika U. Almer, J. Cockin, C. Roth as part of an expedition of the British Royal Geographical Society led by Douglas Freshfield. The photographer for this and subsequent expeditions in the 1890s was Vitorio Sella, who received the cross of St. Anna from Nicholas II for his photographs of the Caucasus mountains. The glacier and the peak of Sella (4329 m) are named after him, which is on the approach to the peak of Mizhirgi in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier. In terms of technical complexity, Kokkin's route to Shkhara is unlikely to reach even 2B, but it is dangerous because it relaxes, although there is practically nowhere to reliably insure on a long snow ridge with cornices in one direction or the other, and there were cases of disruption of entire ligaments. In some sources (for example, A.F. Naumov, "Chegem-Adyrsu") the route is categorized as 4B. The category can be raised to the fifth, wishing to reduce the flow of climbers by cutting off those whom KSS Bezengi officially releases for "fours", but not yet for "five". Kokkin's route - in everyday life "Crab": rock outcrops resemble a crab with claws lowered down. This crab (it is not visible in the panorama) is clearly visible from the Jangi-kosh side in the lower part of the ridge, above the "cushion".

On the ridge you can clearly see the ice gendarme and the Eastern peak of Shkhara. There are no classified routes to it, it is passed almost on foot on the way to main peak Shkhara. From Eastern Shkhara, the GKH leaves us to the southeast, even closer to the south, and passes through the peak Ushguli(4632 m), also known as the South-Eastern Shkhara. The peak is named after the ancient village of Ushguli. Located in the Svan valley at an altitude of 2200 m, it is considered the highest European village permanent residence(i.e. excluding ski resorts and weather stations). There are several "fives" on the top of Ushguli from the Georgian side, as well as an extra-long 2A, the technical simplicity of which is compensated by the length of the approaches: two days from the Bezengi alpine camp in our country or from the Ailama alpine camp in Svaneti.

The most beautiful and logical route to Shkhara is perhaps the "Austrian" 5B Tomashek-Muller (1930) - head-on climb from the Bezengi glacier along the Northern Ridge (in the picture it is on the border of light and shadow). In the days of the Stalinist USSR, there should have been no foreign expeditions in our mountains, however, a small diaspora of Austrian communists found refuge with us in the early 1930s and, judging by the records of its route achievements, did not waste time in vain (look at the Caucasian routes at your leisure of that period with German surnames).

inconspicuous peak Western Shkhara(5057 m) is worthy of mention in that only two routes go to it from the north (Anatoly Blankovsky, 1980 and Yuri Razumov, 1981), and both are very strong and objectively dangerous, rarely visited "sixes". They appeared in the early 1980s, thanks to progress in ice equipment - first of all, the appearance in the USSR of cat-platforms for ice and ice screws (previously they were insured with ice carrot hooks, which had to be hammered into the ice for a long time).

To the right of Western Shkhara, the ridge of the Bezengi wall gradually lowers in the direction of a small rocky peak of Shota Rustaveli peak (4860 m), hidden behind a peak closer to us Gestola(4860 m). Rustaveli Peak was first climbed by Georgians in 1937, from the south along route 4A. IN Lately it is often visited from the north, because the comparatively safe "Laletin's board" - a monotonous ice route, passed in 1983 by A.Laletin's team from St. In the intramural class of the 1995 Russian Alpinism Championship, the deuces leaving at night managed to jump this route to the very top by 10 o'clock in the morning!

Even more to the left in the panorama, the Dzhangi-Tau massif is visible half-turned: Dzhangi East(5038 m), home(5058 m) and Western(5054 m). The route to the East Dzhangi along the NE ridge is the easiest on the Bezengi Wall, only the routes to the extreme mountains of the Wall, Shkhara (technically easy 5A) and Gestola (4A with a climb through peak 4310) are easier. In addition, the NE ridge (buttress) of Eastern Dzhangi is objectively the least dangerous option for climbing the Wall from the north, and it is often used as a descent route after ascending the Dzhangi massif (including the Main Dzhangi), Western Shkhara or Rustaveli Peak. Eastern Dzhangi, like Shkhara, was printed in 1888 by Kokkin's group.

To get the "Star of Bezengi" badge, it is not necessary to climb the Main Dzhangi (the only route to it from the north is dangerous with ice collapses 5A), any Dzhanga peak is enough - first of all, the simpler and safer Eastern one. There are no classified routes to Western Dzhangi from the north yet (except perhaps within the traverse of the Wall), and they are unlikely to appear soon: a beautiful and logical line to this peak is not visible from this side, but objectively dangerous ice faults are visible. But from the Georgian side to the Western Dzhangi, two 5Bs are classified. I wonder when was the last time they went? ..

Approximately the same ice "gardens" looks from the north and Katyn(4974 m), from which the huge and flat Katyn plateau extends to Gestola. Katyn was also climbed for the first time in 1888 by members of a British expedition, but the simplest route to it from the north - 46 hp (G.Holder, 1888) - is objectively more dangerous and less beautiful than the northeast ridge of the Dzhangi of the same category of difficulty.

The GKH line runs along the edge of the Bezengi wall through the massifs of Shkhara and Dzhangi, Katyn, Gestola and Lyalver, and a long ridge, leaving Gestola to the southwest (in the picture to the right) and partially hiding the Katyn plateau, leads to the peak located in Georgia Tetnuld(4853 m). It is not visible on this fragment of the panorama (it is to the right), but it is on the general panorama. In the 1990s, Georgians brought a metal cross with a characteristic shape, like on the Georgian flag, to the top of Tetnuld. The easiest way to Gestola(4860 m) from the north - this is 3B through the peak Lalver(4350 m), with an ascent to Lyalver along a technically simple 2B and then a simple traverse through peak 4310 and the shoulder of Gestola. This route (completed for the first time already in 1903) is categorized as 3B, perhaps solely for its height and length. There is an option to shorten this Chinese campaign - to cut off the path to peak 4310 by climbing it not through Lyalver, but head-on from the western branch of the Bezengi glacier. This variant of the route to Gestola is categorized as 4A (A. Germogenov, 1932), although there are no technical difficulties on it even on 3A (carefully in the upper part - destroyed rocks).

The story with the name pichka in the crest of the Bezengi wall to the west of the shoulder of Gestola is quite confusing. This slight ridge rise previously “passed” as peak 4310 or Peak Nameless. The latter name haunted renaming activists, and in the 1990s, two signs were erected on this peak in the neighborhood, one in affirmation Yesenin peak, the other - peak of the 50th anniversary of the CBD. The "anniversary" version of the name, it seems, sounded more weighty than the poetic impulse of Yesenin's admirers, because the sign "50 years of the KBR" was the result of a massive ascent along 2B through Lyalver with the support of the authorities from Nalchik. But in technical descriptions, this tip, as a rule, is still passed as "4310". It is clearer: whatever you call it, the height will not change :)

Peak 4310 separates two passes in the Bezengi wall, Chiurlionis East and West. On the enlarged fragment of the panorama, Čiurlionis Vostochny is indicated, it is between peak 4310 and the shoulder of Gestola. Vertex Bashille(4257 m) - in the picture against the background of Lyalver - is located to the west of the Bezengi region and already belongs to the Chegem Gorge region.

A few words about the height of the peaks of the Bezengi wall and her highest point.

All sources agree that Shkhara is the highest point of the Wall. But they determine the heights of the Bezengi peaks in different ways. So, for Shkhara Glavnaya one can meet not only the traditional value of 5068 m, but also the more "prestigious" 5203 m, and for Dzhanga Glavnaya - values ​​of 5085, 5074 and 5058 m (Lyapin's map). We rely on the data of the General Staff as more homogeneous (at least within a single area) and for the highest points Shkhara And Dzhangi take the values, respectively, 5069 m(5068.8 according to the General Staff) and 5058 m. Direct visual assessments also favor Shkhara. When looking at the Bezengi wall from northern massif, as well as when looking at Shkhara from Jangi (and vice versa), Shkhara always gives the impression of the dominant peak of the Wall.

Finally, oh curvature of the "arc" of the Bezegi Wall visible in the picture. The visual impression of its large curvature in the Shkhara - Gestola section is illusory, it is a pure effect of a large increase in the image, in which the image of a cluster of distant objects is stretched in azimuth, but does not move apart in depth. So it seems that the slender comb visible from the end wags its sides. In relation to this image: if you recalculate in kilometers the VISIBLE angular distance between Shkhara Glavnaya and Katyn (or Dzhangi Zapadnaya), then it will turn out to be six times (!) LESS than the real distance from Shkhara Glavnaya to Gestola, but it seems that they are approximately the same.

d) the mountains of Svaneti and the Dzhantugan pass.

The main characters of this fragment are the dominant Svetgar(4117 m) and, to the right, a modest Marianne(3584 m), a bunch-two completing the Svetgar ridge stretching from the east (on the left). In the soft evening light of the sun, their rocky slopes amaze with a variety of color shades. Peaks lined up behind Marianne Asmashi Ridge, which are identified very uncertainly at this end angle. This entire mountain complex would be of great interest to mountain tourists and climbers, if it were open for visiting from the Russian side. Suffice it to say that most of the passes in the region - Asmashi, Marianna, Svetgar, Tot - are category 3A.

A few words about the Dzhantugan plateau and the Dzhantugan pass (3483 m, tourist 2B), which dominate the middle plan of the fragment. The Dzhantugan Plateau is one of the western branches of the huge Lekzyr (Lekziri) glacial complex, the largest on the southern side of the GKH. It is formed by a system of glaciers framing the GKH in the area from the Kashkatash pass in the west to the Bashiltau peak area in the upper reaches of the Chegem Gorge in the east. These glaciers adjoin the passes connecting the regions of Adylsu, Adyrsu and Chegem with Svaneti. The Dzhantugan plateau resembles an apple rotten from the inside: its entire inside is broken by wide bottomless cracks, and only the narrow outer rim is edible. Any reasonable movements on the line Lekzyr - Bashkara - Dzhantugan - Aristov rocks - Gumachi - Chegettau - Latsga are possible only near the slopes of these peaks.

The glacier on the rise to the Dzhantugan pass is severely torn, but in last years there is a way to simply bypass the bergs and cracks, leading to the pass close to the end slope of the Aristov rocks (red spots in the picture). The pass itself is somewhat puzzling: you do not see a clear inflection in any direction, everything is flat, and only after passing 50-70 meters to the south and burying yourself in faults, you understand that a general decline has begun towards Georgia. (At the same time, the red and white border stick sticks out only twenty meters above the cliff to our northern side.) Near the top of Gumachi there is another pass that leads to the plateau - East Dzhantugan, aka False Gumachi (3580 m, tourist 2B) . Climbing it from the side of the Adyl-su gorge is no more difficult than 1B, but to descend from it to Svaneti (along the tricky icefall, which determines the category of both passes), you have to bypass the plateau on the right and, therefore, follow the Jantugan pass. So for routes from Adyl-su to Svaneti, that one is clearly preferable. There is another option of climbing to the Dzhantugan plateau in the middle between these two passes, through the central depression in the chain of Aristov rocks.

Aristov rocks named in memory of Oleg Dmitrievich Aristov, who stood at the origins of Soviet mountaineering. In 1935, his group was one of the first to "hill" the peaks above the Dzhantugan plateau along the most simple ways and made several first ascents - Dzhantugan on 2A, Gadyl on 3A, Gadyl-Bashkar traverse (4A). That summer, the 1st All-Union Alpiniad of Trade Unions worked in the Adyl-Su Gorge, and 24-year-old Aristov led the School of Instructors there. Oleg died at the peak of Communism on September 13, 1937. He was appointed head of the assault group, which had the order to bring the bust of Stalin to Communism Peak (then - Stalin Peak). Oleg was walking with frostbitten feet and slipped, falling off at the very top.

The ascent to the Dzhantugan plateau from the side of Adyl-Su passes along the Dzhankuat glacier, which was chosen by glaciologists to study the processes occurring in valley glaciers. The thickness of this typical valley glacier is 40-50 meters in icefalls and 70-100 meters in flattened areas. Like other glaciers in the Caucasus, Dzhankuat has been rapidly retreating in recent decades. At its tip, in a clearing with a seductive name with a seductive name "Green Hotel" - the houses of the Glaciological Station of Moscow State University. In early June, a backcountry camp is sometimes arranged here, aimed at beginners and advanced riders. In the summer there are students at the station. In winter, it is convenient to use the houses for lodging for the night, they save from the winds from the side of the pass, which build up agility when descending into the wide flat part of the gorge below the Dzhankuat glacier.

From the Dzhantugan plateau it is convenient to make radial ascents to the surrounding peaks. IN eastbound they are simple - to the top Gumachi(3826 m) along 1B (on foot) and Chegettau(4049 m) along 2B. This deuce-B is the oldest route of the region and the entire Elbrus region (excluding Elbrus itself) - Douglas Freshfield, 1888. In the western direction from the Dzhantugan plateau, it is convenient to climb Dzhantugan along 2A and 3A, as well as Bashkara along 3B, Gadyl along 3A and Lekzyr Dzhantugansky (1B).

Peak Jantugan(4012 m) at the right edge of the panorama fragment, a beautiful and simple route 2A leads to it from the pass. Jan is turned here to us with his north side, on which three triples-B are classified, one of them (along the NE edge) is clearly visible - this is the edge that casts a shadow. Bypassing the peak from the side of the plateau, you can climb the jumper between it and its western neighbor, the peak of Bashkar. Route 3A to Dzhan begins near this jumper (along the SW ridge), and a beautiful ridge route 3B leads to Bashkara.

The Bashkara-Gadyl massif borders the Dzhantugan plateau from the west. From the plateau it is clearly seen that the peaks Bashkara(4162 m) and Gadyl(4120 m) - the ends of one massif. He simply turned to Svanetia with the “Gadyl” side, and to Balkaria with the “Bashkar”, which is why he received from the corresponding observers different names. The Bashkara-Gadyl traverse (4A) is one of the oldest routes in the region (K. Egger, 1914). In the panoramic image from Kezgen, the peak of Gadyl is not visible, it is covered by Bashkara, which in all its severity is presented on an enlarged fragment (photo on the left). Bashkara breaks off towards the glacier of the same name with its northern wall, along which two routes 6A pass, technically the most difficult in Adyl-Su. The snow "cushion" to the right of Bashkara is the Pobeda pass, one of the most difficult in the region (3B according to the tourist classification). The Bashkara Pass, which is between Bashkara and Dzhantugan, is much easier. From the northern slopes of Bashkara, the Bashkara glacier descends, from the melting of which Bashkara Lake was formed, threatening to break through and mudflow down the Adylsu gorge.

e) from the Kashkatash pass to Ushba.

The same section with designations of peaks, passes and glaciers.


(Recall that the peaks of the GKH are marked with solid red circles, the passes of the GKH are marked with red crosses).

From left to right:

Pinnacle 14 - Ullukara(4302 m), located in the GKH, breaks off with a wall of complexity 5B to the upper reaches of the Kashkatash glacier.
Peak 1 against the backdrop of Ullukara - peak Germogenova(3993 m) in the spur of Ullukara. From the side of the middle reaches of the Kashkatash glacier, a ridge stretches to the top, along which route 2B passes - one of the longest "twos B" in the region (along with the "two B" to the Eastern Donguzorun along the GKH ridge). Groups of beginners usually go this route with an overnight stay.
Pass 25 - Kashkatash, 3A * - located in the GKH between the peaks of Ullukara and Free Spain.
Glacier 10 - Kashkatash glacier, belonging to the Adylsu basin, the tributary flows opposite the lower houses of the Dzhantugan alpine camp.
Pinnacle 15 - peak Free Spain(4200 m), located in the GKH. The route to the summit along the eastern ridge from the pass is category 4A. Ice route 4B along the wall to the left of the rock tower (Aleksey Osipov et al., 1995) is recommended as a winter option, it is dangerous for rocks in the warm season. Several "five Bs" have been laid along the rock tower. rock gendarme in east ridge sometimes called Gogol Peak, and the gendarme in the western ridge - Lermontov Peak (I remember Yesenin Peak, mentioned in the description of Bezengi near Lyalver Peak). In climbing terms, these are still gendarmes, they do not lead independent routes, but topologically, “Lermontov’s gendarme” - whatever one may say, this is the nodal peak of the GKH. The Dollakora ridge branches off from it, which leads south to Svaneti and separates the Lekzyr and Chalaat glaciers there.
Pinnacle 16 - Bzhedukh(4270 m), located in the GKH. The snowy slopes of the bridge between the peaks of Free Spain and Bzheduha represent the simplest, but dangerous landslide route of descent from Free Spain, commonly referred to as the "Trough".
Glacier 11 - Bzhedukh, belongs to the Shkhelda basin.
Pass 26 - Double, 3A - is located in the GKH between the peak of the Caucasus East and the peak of Bzhedukh.
Pinnacle 17 - peak Caucasus East(4163 m), the key peak of the GKH. Here the Main Range turns away from us, to the peaks of Vuleya and Shchurovsky, and the rest of the peaks of the Caucasus are already in its spur, which descends into the Shkhelda valley.
Pass 27 - Saddle of the Caucasus, 3A - is located in the spur of the GKH between the peaks of the Caucasus Main and East.
Pinnacle 3 - peak Caucasian Western, located in a spur of the GKH.
Pass 28 - Krenkelya, 3A - is located in the spur of the GKH between the peaks of the Caucasus Western and Main.
Pinnacle 4 - peak Caucasian Chief(4037 m), located in the spur of the GKH.

The ridge of the GKH peaks closes the upper reaches of the Chalaat glaciers from us, which fall into Svaneti with steep icefalls. The peaks surrounding them are Free Spain (4200 m), Bzhedukh (4280 m), Eastern Caucasus (4163 m), a peak hidden behind it Vuleya(4055 m, we have already talked about Herman Vulei in connection with his routes in Bezengi), peak Shchurovsky(4277 m, V.A. Shchurovsky - a famous Moscow doctor who treated Chekhov and Tolstoy, and “part-time” mountain traveler, who presented a number of tourist routes in the Western Caucasus to the general public), Chatyn Western(4347 m), Chatyn Chief(4412 m) and Malaya Ushba(4320 m).

From Western Chatyn to Svaneti, a short but powerful spur with the top of Chatyn Glavny protrudes. It separates two branches of the Chalaat glacier, breaking off on the Chatyn plateau - the southern circus of the main, eastern branch of the glacier - with its famous Northern wall with solid "sixes". Approach from Russia to the Chatyn Plateau under the routes to the Northern Face of Chatyn - up the Shkhelda Gorge through the Chatyn South Pass, aka Chatyn False (2B). (For more on this pass, see Catalog passes and peaks of Oleg Fomichev, a link to him at the end of the article, among others useful links.) From Georgia, it is difficult to enter the Chatyn plateau without a very strong desire, for this you need to either cross the additional Dalla-Kora pass in the southern spurs of the GKH, or go up through the difficult icefalls of the Chalaat glacier, which is extremely problematic even with equipment.

Near Malaya Ushba, an even more impressive short spur with the pearl of the Caucasus - the Ushba massif and its peaks extends from the GKH to Svaneti Northern Ushba(4694 m) and South Ushba(4710 m).

The main passes of the GKH in this junction are:
Pass 29 - Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks of Chatyn Zapadny and Malaya Ushba, the pass of Academician Aleksandrov is projected onto the same pass, 3B - between Chatyn and Shchurovsky peak
Pass 30 - Ushbinsky, 3A - between the massifs of Ushba and Shkheldy.

f) Shkhelda array.

Peak Heights Shkhelda massif(from left to right):

Eastern- 4368 m
Central- 4238 m
peak Aristova- 4229 m
peak The science- 4159 m
2nd Western- 4231 m
Western- 3976 m

By the way, in 1974 the titanic traverse of Shkhelda (all peaks) - Ushba - Mazeri (G. Agranovsky, A. Vezner, V. Gritsenko and Yu. Ustinov, 14.07-5.08 1974) was passed. The obligatory set of traverses of all peaks of Shkhelda includes five of the six named above: Shkhelda Western falls out, located on the far periphery, in the isthmus already on the outskirts of the Trade Unions peak.
The remaining peaks of the Shkhelda massif are considered gendarmes. Particularly stands out the gendarme Rooster - a tall rocky phallus next to east tower Schkheldy.

g) area of ​​Malaya Shkhelda.

Not particularly noticeable, but interesting in its topology and rich in surrounding views of the mountain knot around Malaya Shkhelda(4012 m). GKH enters the frame on the left from the side of the peak adjacent to Shkhelda trade unions(3957 m) and, moving with a slight southern roll to the west through the lowering of the Bivachny pass (3820 m, 2B *), climbs the peak Athlete(3961 m, not to be confused with the peak Athlete's Day, which is in the Adyl-Su ridge), turns 90 degrees from it and in a northwestern course, bypassing the Sredny pass (3910 m), rises to the top of M. Shkhelda, the highest point of the region. Further, almost without changing course, the GKH passes along the double rocky ridge Akhsu (3916 m), which is visible from the edge from Kezgen and appears to be a front snowy slope with an easily recognizable berg at the base. Going down this slope (route 2A), the GKH turns due west and, slipping through the lane. Akhsu (2A, 3764 m), climbs a low and quite easy peak when approaching from any direction Yusengi Nodal(3846 m). Here the GKH says goodbye to us and goes beyond the right cut of the frame towards the Becho pass, and in the northeast direction (to the left and towards us) the Yusengi ridge departs from Uzlovaya. For more than a kilometer, it leads along a wide and flawlessly even snow ridge (the summit exit of the Akhsu glacier), while imperceptibly slips through the Rodina pass area (2A, 3805 m) and reaches its highest point at the top. Yusengi(3870). Then it descends in a long course into the Baksan valley (in the picture along the ridge in our direction).

Both peaks of Yusengi and Rodina pass give gorgeous views in the direction of Elbrus and Donguz, no other observation point will give you a larger view of the Elbrus-Donguz expanse. The top of the Malaya Shkhelda is an excellent viewpoint of the entire adjacent Georgian sector, and the Fizkulturnik peak gives an amazing close view of the Shkhelda-Ushba-Mazeri link and the Ushba glacier in the pit between them.

Ascent on foot to the peak Athlete from the lane. Medium - a matter of 6-8 minutes. Climbing from there to the top of Malaya Shkhelda - opposite 2A along the old fragile rocks. The rocky traverse M. Shkhelda - Akhsu is already classified as 2B, and the longer traverse in the other direction - M. Shkhelda - Fizkulturnik peak - Profsoyuzov peak - as 3A.

The peaks indicated in the picture form a chain above the cirque of the Akhsu glacier, open (not covered by moraine sediments) along its entire course from the source to the place where it flows into the Shkhelda glacier. There is no more extended section of the open glacier in the gorges from Adyrsu to Azau.

h) Donguzorun and Nakra array.


When you look at the Donguzorun massif with cover(4269 m) from Terskol, you wonder: well, why was this Nakra called Nakra and even called it, if it is nothing more than an appendage of a really serious and sign-defining mountain Donguzorun? When you stand in the upper reaches of the Yusengi gorge and look from the bottom up at the monumental eastern wall of Donguz under the age-old ice shell, you are even more surprised: what does Nakra have to do with it and where is she, this dependent baby? But when you look at the Donguz massif from Kezgen, the global picture becomes clear. The western peak of Donguz is the center of a regular three-pointed star. From it to the southeast (to the left in the picture) stretches the Donguz ridge, it is he who makes up the main part of the complex - the Donguzorun massif itself with its three adjacent peaks: Donguzorun East(4442 m), Main(4454 m) and West(4429 m). From the western summit, the northeastern spur of the Donguz descends directly on us, which, at the intermediate peak Interkosmos(3731 m, in the photo from Kezgen it is a gentle snow-covered pyramid) is divided into two branches, a very short northern one, which gracefully descends to the Donguzorun River above the Chegetskaya glade, and the one that is more authentic - the eastern, Kogutai (we see a shallow flat snow bowl of the western circus of Kogutai). In this branch, above the glacial cirque, two similar triangular tops are clearly visible - Big Kogutai(3819 m), it is to the left, and Small Kogutai(3732 m). The Main Range itself from the western peak of Donguz goes west (to the right), immediately jumps onto the Nakra tower and then gracefully descends to the hospitable Donguzorun pass (1A, 2302).

Nevertheless, it would be a great injustice - and a factual mistake - to consider Nakru not an independent peak, but just a side appendage of Donguz. The fact is that it is to her, and not to the dominant neighbor, from the south that adjoins ridge Tsalgmyl, which is very long in itself and to which, like a rod, numerous side spurs are attached, filling the vast space surrounded by the Inguri River (from the south) and its primary tributaries Nakra (from the west) and Dolroy (from the east). Only a small inner region was subjugated by Donguzorun - the one that occupies a modest and short Dolra Range, sheltered three kilometers to the GKH and adjacent to the Main peak of Donguz.

The topology of the Donguzorun-Nakra array is interesting. There is a general long and monotonous gentle ascent from the southern, Georgian side, where the multi-branched Kvish glacier freely spreads (and from where the routes of G. Merzbacher, 1891 and R. Gelbling, 1903 were laid to the peaks of Donguz at the turn of the 19-20 centuries - both 2A ), and then, upon reaching the border ridge line, everything abruptly breaks down, into Russia, by the eastern and northern walls of the massif, glorious for their difficult climbing routes (categories from 4B to 5B). And right behind the dumping of the eastern and northern walls of Donguz - greenery and the Cheget-Terskol charms of civilization.

In connection with such an extraordinary topology in the winter of 1989, the following story happened on Donguz. As part of the mountaineering championship on the Northern Face of Donguzorun (strong route 5B Khergiani), a deuce climbed from Kyiv, but soon after reaching the top they did not get in touch and disappeared. They didn’t have any food (they dropped it on the rise). Winter, February, frost, bad weather. We found them only on the 8th day ... at the Minvod airport (!). .

i) Elbrus.


To the observer on the top of Kezgen Elbrus converted to his Eastern summit(5621 m), and it is as symmetrical as possible in terms of the central center line and side exits. The western peak of the mountain (5642 m) is completely closed by the Eastern one.
On the Eastern peak in its right part, rocks are distinguishable against the sky; they border the summit crater with a 20-meter wall. The highest point of the dome is located on the southern (left in the picture) edge of the crater. This summit crater is open to the east, towards us, and on the slope half a kilometer below it gapes a side crater, and under it the Achkeryakol lava flow (ALF) stretches further down - a chain of talus rocks of volcanic origin. This stream descends to the ice fields of East Elbrus, giving rise to the rivers Irik and Irikchat.

On the northern (right to the viewer) slope of Elbrus, two spots of rocky outcrops are visible against the sky - approximately at 4600 and 5100 m. The upper ones are Lenz rocks, so named in honor of the expedition member General Emmanuel who reached them: "..One of the academicians - Mr. Lenz - climbed to a height of 15200 feet. The total height of Elbrus above the level of the Atlantic Ocean is determined by the value of 16800 feet"(quoted). Each of these height values ​​was obtained with more than a 10 percent error, but their ratio suffers from errors much less and with reference to the current accepted height Elbrus (5642 m) allows us to estimate the height of the rocks reached by Lenz as 5100 m. So, we are talking about the upper rock outcrops.

A few words about the historical route of Douglas Freshfield to the Eastern peak of Elbrus (1868). The mountaintop route classifier leads Freshfield through Priyut-11, but he took a different route (described in detail in his bestselling book Exploration of the Central Caucasus). The group left the village of Urusbievs (Upper Baksan) and the first day on horseback moved along the Baksan valley, and the second day they climbed up the Terskol gorge, from where the dome of Elbrus first appeared, and reached the bivouac area near the Ice Base. The group reached the top at 3 o'clock in the morning. Stepping on the glacier, she went in bundles in a straight course to the cone and first reached a height from which the spurs opened towards the distant steppe, and then, already at the beginning of the ascent along the cone, she met the sun. By half past seven, at an altitude of 4800 m, the group reached the rocks of the upper part of the cone and at 10h40m reached the summit in the area of ​​the current obelisk.

“This peak was at the end of a horseshoe-shaped ridge crowned with three elevations and framing a snowy plateau on three sides, open to the east. We walked—or rather, ran—up the ridge to the very end, passing two significant drops and visiting all three peaks. … [At the same time] we naturally looked out to see if there was a second peak somewhere, but it was nowhere to be found. It seemed to us that western slope abruptly breaks down to Karachai and that there were no dense clouds that could hide a peak approximately the same height as ours. But we were wrong: the western, slightly higher peak was completely hidden by haze ... It must be remembered that before this ascent we had never seen Elbrus and, therefore, had only a vague idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure of the mountain.


Having built a “stone man” on top, the group at the beginning of the twelfth began to descend along the ascent path, in the evening descended into the valley and the next day returned to the Urusbievs, where they were greeted with greetings and treats.
“We were caught in the crossfire of questions about how it is up there, and we were sad to report that we did not see there a giant rooster that lives in the sky and welcomes the sunrise with a cry and flapping wings, and greets intruders with a beak and claws, wanting to protect the treasure from people.

Routes are routes, but in the case of Elbrus one cannot keep silent about his own biography. Why is it that the Main Caucasian Range seems to be the main one, and its iconic peaks - Elbrus and Kazbek - are somewhere on the side? Because they are volcanoes. In the Greater Caucasus, volcanism is associated with the fragmentation of the earth's crust at a late stage of mountain building. The Elbrus volcano was formed in the Bokovoy ridge on the watershed of the Malka, Baksan and Kuban rivers, and it is confined to the intersection of the longitudinal Tyrnyauz fault zone and the transverse Elbrus fault. In the southwestern part of the mountain, the remains of an ancient crater have been preserved in the form of rocks of Khotutau-Azau. Now the two-headed volcano is planted on the upper part of the ancient crater - a highly raised pedestal (base) made of ancient rocks of granites and crystalline schists.

Elbrus as a volcano was born about 2 million years ago. All the mountains of this region then rose as low hills, and powerful eruptions of magma rich in gases formed first volcanic cone(its remnants in the area of ​​the Irikchat pass). After many hundreds of thousands of years the volcano is working again- almost a kilometer-long cliff speaks of its power Kyukurtlu. On the section of this wall, one can clearly see how layers of volcanic bombs, slag, tuffs and ash alternate with frozen lava flows. Explosive eruptions and outpourings of thick and viscous lavas alternated many times, and when the volcano began to subside, hot gases and solutions still penetrated through the thickness of volcanic rocks for a long time. Due to this, layers of sulfur were formed, which are now turning yellow against the dark red background of the Kyukurtlu cliffs.
Now the wall routes to Kyukyurtly are considered one of the most difficult in the Caucasus.

Third phase of activity volcano, about 200 thousand years ago, was restrained. Outpourings of lava descended into the Baksan valley over and over again. The slowly cooling lava shrank in volume and cracked, and wonderful columnar structures formed in it, which we see on the walls rising above the road from the village. Terskol to the observatory, as well as forming the left side of the gloomy Azau gorge.

Fourth phase of activity volcano - 60-70 thousand years ago - was extremely stormy. Explosions knocked out a cork of frozen ancient rocks from the vent of the volcano, and the volcanic material spread for tens of kilometers (discovered near Tyrnyauz, in the Chegem Valley). At this time formed western peak Elbrus. The eruptions formed a loose stratum of volcanic bombs, tuffs, and other products, mainly on the western and northern slopes. When the energy of the volcano decreased, outpourings of lavas began - now to the upper reaches of the ancient Malka valley, and not to Baksan.

Elbrus area from space - on Google maps.Maps:

Topology of the Western and Eastern peaks of Elbrus close-up.
The highest point of the Eastern Peak is visible, located in the southern part of the summit dome. Being on the East Peak, it is not always obvious where the highest point is...

The Kezgen campaign of 2007, in which photographic materials for PANORAMA-1 were obtained, is described in the 2nd part of Igor Pasha's article .. The photographic materials themselves are also presented there, in a much larger volume ..

We also give a number of basic links on the topic of the publication:

http://caucatalog.narod.ru- Base of passes, peaks, valleys, glaciers and other objects of the Caucasus with photographs (more than 2200 objects and 7400 photographs as of January 2010), reports on mountain hikes. The author of the site caucatalog is Mikhail Golubev (Moscow).

The authors will be grateful for constructive comments, indication of factual inaccuracies and additional information provided. All this will be taken into account with gratitude when updating the article!

Geographical position. On a huge isthmus between the Black and Caspian Seas, from the Taman Peninsula to the Apsheron Peninsula, the majestic mountains of the Greater Caucasus are located.

North Caucasus is the southernmost part Russian territory. Along the ridges of the Main, or Watershed, Caucasian ridge passes the border of the Russian Federation with the countries of Transcaucasia.

The Caucasus is separated from the Russian Plain by the Kuma-Manych depression, on the site of which a sea strait existed in the Middle Quaternary.

The North Caucasus is an area located on the border of the temperate and subtropical zones.

The epithet "most-most" is often applied to the nature of this territory. Latitudinal zonality is replaced here by vertical zonality. For a resident of the plains of the mountains of the Caucasus - a prime example"multi-storey" of nature.

Remember where it is located and what is the name of the extreme south point Russia.

Features of nature North Caucasus . The Caucasus is a young mountain structure, formed during the period of Alpine folding. The Caucasus includes: Ciscaucasia, Greater Caucasus and Transcaucasia. Only Ciscaucasia and the northern slopes of the Greater Caucasus belong to Russia.

Rice. 92. Orographic scheme of the Caucasus

Often the Greater Caucasus is presented as a single ridge. In fact, it is a system of mountain ranges. From the Black Sea coast to Mount Elbrus is the Western Caucasus, from Elbrus to Kazbek - the Central Caucasus, east of Kazbek to the Caspian Sea - the Eastern Caucasus. In the longitudinal direction, an axial zone is distinguished, occupied by the Vodorazdelny (Main) and Lateral ridges.

The northern slopes of the Greater Caucasus form the Skalisty and Pastbishny ranges. They have a cuesta structure - these are ridges, in which one slope is gentle, and the other is abruptly ending. The reason for the formation of kuest is the interbedding of layers composed of rocks of different hardness.

The chains of the Western Caucasus begin near the Taman Peninsula. At first, these are not even mountains, but hills with soft outlines. They rise as you move east. Mountains Fisht (2867 m) and Oshten (2808 m) - the highest parts of the Western Caucasus - are covered with snowfields and glaciers.

The highest and most grandiose part of the entire mountain system is the Central Caucasus. Here, even the passes reach a height of 3000 m, only one pass - Krestovy on the Georgian Military Highway - lies at an altitude of 2379 m.

In the Central Caucasus there are the highest peaks - the two-headed Elbrus, an extinct volcano, the highest peak in Russia (5642 m), and Kazbek (5033 m).

The eastern part of the Greater Caucasus is mainly numerous ridges mountainous Dagestan (in translation - the Country of mountains).

Rice. 93. Mount Elbrus

Various tectonic structures took part in the structure of the North Caucasus. In the south there are folded-block mountains and foothills of the Greater Caucasus. It is part of the Alpine geosynclinal zone.

The fluctuations of the earth's crust were accompanied by bending of the earth's layers, their extensions, faults, ruptures. According to the cracks formed great depths magma poured onto the surface, which led to the formation of numerous ore deposits.

Uplifts in recent geological periods - Neogene and Quaternary - have turned the Greater Caucasus into a mountainous country. The rise in the axial part of the Greater Caucasus was accompanied by an intensive subsidence of earth layers along the edges of the emerging mountain range. This led to the formation of foothill troughs: in the west of the Indolo-Kuban and in the east of the Terek-Caspian.

The complex history of the geological development of the region is the reason for the richness of the bowels of the Caucasus in various minerals. The main wealth of Ciscaucasia is the oil and gas field. Polymetallic ores, tungsten, copper, mercury, and molybdenum are mined in the central part of the Greater Caucasus.

In the mountains and foothills of the North Caucasus, many mineral springs, near which resorts were created, which have long gained worldwide fame - Kislovodsk, Mineral water, Pyatigorsk, Essentuki, Zheleznovodsk, Matsesta. The springs are diverse in chemical composition, in temperature, and extremely useful.

Rice. 94. Geological structure North Caucasus

The geographical position of the North Caucasus in the south of the temperate zone determines its mild, warm climate, transitional from temperate to subtropical. Here is a parallel 45 ° N. sh., that is, this territory is equidistant from both the equator and the pole. This situation determines the amount of solar heat received: in summer 17-18 kcal per square centimeter, which is 1.5 times more than the European part of Russia receives on average. With the exception of the highlands, the climate in the North Caucasus is mild and warm; on the plains, the average temperature in July exceeds 20 ° C everywhere, and summer lasts from 4.5 to 5.5 months. Average January temperatures range from -10 to +6°C, and winter lasts only two to three months. The city of Sochi is located in the North Caucasus, where the warmest winter in Russia is with a January temperature of +6.1 ° С.

On the map, determine whether there are any obstacles in the foothills of the North Caucasus in the way of arctic air masses, tropical. What atmospheric fronts pass near this area? Analyze on maps how precipitation is distributed in the North Caucasus, explain the reasons for this distribution.

The abundance of heat and light allows the vegetation of the North Caucasus to develop in the north of the region for seven months, in Ciscaucasia - eight, and on the Black Sea coast, south of Gelendzhik - up to 11 months. This means that with the appropriate selection of crops, two crops per year can be obtained here.

The North Caucasus is distinguished by a very complex circulation of various air masses. Various air masses can penetrate into this area.

The main source of moisture for the North Caucasus is the Atlantic Ocean. That's why western regions The Northern Caucasus are distinguished by a large amount of precipitation. Annual rainfall in foothill areas in the west it is 380-520 mm, and in the east, in the Caspian Sea, it is 220-250 mm. Therefore, in the east of the region there are often droughts and dry winds. However, they are often accompanied by dusty, or black, storms. Storms occur in the spring when the top layers of dry soil, still loosely held together by newly emerged plants, are blown away. strong wind. A cloud of dust rises into the air, covering the sky and the sun.

Measures to combat black storms are properly planned forest shelterbelts and high agricultural technology. However, until now, due to black storms, it is necessary to re-sow (re-sow) several tens of thousands of hectares, from which the most fertile soil layer is demolished during dust storms.

The climate of the highlands very different from the plains and foothills. The first main difference is that in the mountains there is much more precipitation: at an altitude of 2000 m - 2500-2600 mm per year. This is due to the fact that the mountains trap air masses, forcing them to rise up. At the same time, the air cools and gives off its moisture.

The second difference in the climate of the highlands is a decrease in the duration of the warm season due to a decrease in air temperature with height. Already at an altitude of 2700 m on the northern slopes and at an altitude of 3800 m in the Central Caucasus there is a snow line, or the border " eternal ice". At an altitude of over 4000 m, even in July, positive temperatures are very rare.

Remember how much the air temperature decreases when you rise for every 100 m. Calculate how much the air will cool when you rise to a height of 4000 m, if its temperature at the earth's surface is +20 ° С. What happens to the moisture in the air?

In the mountains of the Western Caucasus, due to the abundance of precipitation during the winter, a four-five-meter layer of snow accumulates, and in the mountain valleys, where it is blown away by the wind, up to 10-12 m. The abundance of snow in winter leads to the formation of snow avalanches. Sometimes one awkward movement, even a sharp sound, is enough for a thousand-ton mass of snow to fly down a steep ledge, destroying everything in its path.

Explain why there are practically no avalanches in the mountains of the Eastern Caucasus.

Think about what differences will be observed in the change of altitudinal zones on the western and eastern slopes.

The third difference of the alpine climate is its amazing diversity from place to place in connection with the height of the mountains, the exposure of the slope, proximity or distance from the sea.

The fourth difference is the peculiarity of atmospheric circulation. Cooled air from the highlands rushes down the comparatively narrow intermountain valleys. For every 100 m lowered, the air heats up by about 1°C. Descending from a height of 2500 m, it heats up by 25 ° C and becomes warm, even hot. This is how it is formed local wind- hair dryer. Hair dryers are especially frequent in spring, when the intensity of the general circulation of air masses increases sharply. Unlike a hair dryer, when masses of dense cold air invade, a bora is formed (from the Greek boreas - north, North wind), a strong cold downwind wind. Flowing over low ridges into an area with warmer rarefied air, it heats up relatively little and “falls” down the leeward slope at high speed. Bora is observed mainly in winter, where mountain range borders the sea or a vast body of water. The Novorossiysk Bora is widely known (Fig. 95). And yet, the leading factor in climate formation in the mountains, which greatly affects all other components of nature, is the height, which leads to vertical zonality of both climate and natural zones.

Rice. 95. Scheme of formation of the Novorossiysk bora

The rivers of the North Caucasus are numerous and, like the relief and climate, are clearly divided into flat and mountainous. Stormy mountain rivers are especially numerous, the main source of food for which is snow and glaciers during the melting period. The largest rivers are the Kuban and the Terek with their numerous tributaries, as well as the Bolshoy Egorlyk and Kalaus, which originate in the Stavropol Upland. In the lower reaches of the Kuban and the Terek there are floodplains - vast swampy areas covered with reeds and reeds.

Rice. 96. Altitudinal zonality of the Greater Caucasus

The wealth of the Caucasus is fertile soil. In the western part of Ciscaucasia, chernozems predominate, and in the eastern, more arid part, chestnut soils. The soils of the Black Sea coast are intensively used for orchards, berry fields, and vineyards. The northernmost tea plantations in the world are located in the Sochi region.

In the mountains of the Greater Caucasus, altitudinal zonation is clearly expressed. The lower belt is occupied by broad-leaved forests dominated by oak. Above are beech forests, which with height pass first into mixed, and then into spruce-fir forests. The upper border of the forest is located at an altitude of 2000-2200 m. Behind it, on mountain-meadow soils, there are lush subalpine meadows with thickets of Caucasian rhododendron. They pass into short-grass alpine meadows, followed by the highest belt of snowfields and glaciers.

Questions and tasks

  1. On the example of the North Caucasus, show the influence geographical location territory on the features of its nature.
  2. Tell us about the formation of the modern relief of the Greater Caucasus.
  3. On a contour map, indicate the main geographic features area, mineral deposits.
  4. Give a description of the climate of the Greater Caucasus, explain how the climate of the foothills differs from the highlands.

Caucasian mountains- the great division between Europe and Asia. The Caucasus is a narrow strip of land between the Black and Caspian Seas. It strikes with an incredible variety of climate, flora and fauna.

The pride of the Caucasus is its mountains! The Caucasus is not the Caucasus without mountains. The mountains are unique, majestic and impregnable. The Caucasus is amazingly beautiful. He is so different. You can look at the mountains for hours.

The mountain range of the Greater Caucasus is a lot of pastures, forests, as well as amazing natural wonders. More than 2 thousand glaciers descend through narrow gorges. Chain large mountains almost one and a half thousand kilometers stretched from the northwest to the southeast. The main peaks exceed 5 thousand meters and significantly affect the weather in the regions. The clouds that form over the Black Sea are pouring rain, running into the mountain peaks of the Caucasus. On one side of the ridge there is a harsh landscape, and on the other - rough vegetation. Here you can find more than 6 and a half thousand plant species, a quarter of which cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

There are many legends about the origin of the Caucasus Mountains:

A long time ago, when the earth was still very young, a huge plain stretched on the site of the modern territory of the Caucasus. Huge sled heroes lived here in peace and love. They were kind and prudent, they met with joy both day and night, they knew neither evil, nor envy, nor deceit. The ruler of this people was the gray-haired giant Elbrus, and he had a beautiful son, Beshtau, and his son had a charming bride, the beautiful Mashuki. But they had an evil envious - Kite. And he decided to harm the Narts. He prepared a terrible potion in which he mixed the teeth of a wolf, the tongue of a boar and the eyes of a snake. At a big feast, he poured a potion into all the drinks of the Narts. And, having drunk it, they acquired the greed of a boar, the anger of a wolf, and the deceit of a snake. And from that time on, the happy and carefree life of the Narts ended. The father decided to take the young bride away from his son and, sending him on a hunt, wanted to forcefully marry Mashuki. But Mashuki resisted Elbrus. And in an evil battle she lost her wedding ring. I saw the Beshtau ring and hurried to help the bride. And a terrible battle began not for life, but for death, and half of the Narts fought on the side of Elbrus, and the other half on the side of Beshtau. And the battle lasted for several days and nights, and all the sledges perished. Elbrus chopped his son into five parts, and the son, inflicting the last blow, dismembered the gray head of his father into two halves. Mashuki came out after the battle on the battlefield and did not see a single living soul. She approached her lover and plunged the dagger into her heart. So the life of a great and old people stopped.

And now the Caucasian mountains rise in this place: the helmet from the head of Beshtau is Mount Zheleznaya, the Mashuk ring is Mount Koltso, five peaks are Mount Beshtau, nearby is Mount Mashuk and far, far from the others - gray-haired or simply snow-covered handsome Elbrus.

The Caucasus Mountains are the result of the convergence of two plates

Let's look at one of the narrowest places in this grandiose mountain belt. At its northern outskirts, in Ciscaucasia, there are flat areas that belong to a solid plate called the Scythian. Further to the south are the sublatitudinal (that is, stretching approximately from west to east) mountains of the Greater Caucasus up to 5 km high, the narrow depressions of Transcaucasia - the Rionskaya and Kura lowlands - and also the sublatitudinal, but convex to the north mountain ranges of the Lesser Caucasus in Georgia, Armenia , Eastern Turkey and Western Iran (up to 5 km high).

To the south are the plains Northern Arabia, which, like the plains of Ciscaucasia, belong to a very strong, monolithic Arabian lithospheric plate.

Therefore, the Scythian and Arabian plates- it's like two parts of a giant vise, which are slowly approaching, crushing everything that is between them. It is curious that directly opposite the northern, relatively narrow end of the Arabian Plate, in Eastern Turkey and Western Iran, there are the highest mountains in comparison with the mountains located to the west and east. They rise just in the place where the Arabian plate, like some kind of solid wedge, squeezed the pliable deposits most strongly.

The Caucasus Mountains are located on the isthmus between the Caspian and Black Seas. The Kuma-Manych depression separates the Caucasus from the East European Plain. The territory of the Caucasus can be divided into several parts: Ciscaucasia, Greater Caucasus and Transcaucasia. On the territory of the Russian Federation, only Ciscaucasia and Northern part Greater Caucasus. The last two parts together are called the North Caucasus. However, for Russia, this part of the territory is the southernmost. Here, along the crest of the Main Range, passes state border Russian Federation, followed by Georgia and Azerbaijan. The entire system of the Caucasus Range occupies an area of ​​approximately 2600 m2, and its northern slope occupies about 1450 m2, while the southern one is only about 1150 m2.

The North Caucasian mountains are relatively young. Their relief was created by different tectonic structures. In the southern part there are folded-block mountains and foothills of the Greater Caucasus. They were formed when deep trough zones were filled with sedimentary and volcanic rocks, which were later subjected to folding. Tectonic processes here were accompanied by significant bends, extensions, ruptures and faults of earth layers. As a result, a large amount of magma poured onto the surface (this led to the formation of significant ore deposits). The uplifts that took place here in the Neogene and Quaternary periods led to the elevation of the surface and the type of relief that exists today. The rise of the central part of the Greater Caucasus was accompanied by the lowering of the layers along the edges of the ridge being formed. Thus, the Terek-Caspian trough was formed in the east, and the Indal-Kuban trough in the west.

Often the Greater Caucasus is presented as the only ridge. In fact, this is a whole system of various ridges, which can be divided into several parts. The Western Caucasus is located from the Black Sea coast to Mount Elbrus, then (from Elbrus to Kazbek) follows the Central Caucasus, and to the east from Kazbek to the Caspian Sea - the Eastern Caucasus. In addition, two ridges can be distinguished in the longitudinal direction: Vodorazdelny (sometimes called the main one) and Lateral. On the northern slope of the Caucasus, the Rocky and Pasture Ranges, as well as the Black Mountains, are distinguished. They were formed as a result of the interbedding of layers composed of sedimentary rocks of different hardness. One slope of the ridge here is gentle, and the other breaks off rather abruptly. As you move away from the axial zone, the height of the mountain ranges decreases.

The chain of the Western Caucasus begins at Taman Peninsula. At the very beginning, it is rather not even mountains, but hills. They begin to rise towards the east. The highest parts of the North Caucasus are covered with snow caps and glaciers. The highest peaks of the Western Caucasus are the Fisht (2870 meters) and Oshten (2810 meters) mountains. The highest part of the mountain system of the Greater Caucasus is the Central Caucasus. Even some passes at this point reach a height of 3 thousand meters, and the lowest of them (Cross) lies at an altitude of 2380 meters. Here are the highest peaks of the Caucasus. So, for example, the height of Mount Kazbek is 5033 meters, and the two-headed extinct volcano Elbrus is the highest peak in Russia.

The relief here is strongly dissected: sharp ridges, steep slopes and rocky peaks prevail. Eastern part The Greater Caucasus is mainly composed of numerous ridges of Dagestan (in translation, the name of this region means " Mountain country"). There are complex branching ridges with steep slopes and deep canyon-like river valleys. However, the height of the peaks here is less than in the central part of the mountain system, but still they exceed the height of 4 thousand meters. The uplift of the Caucasus Mountains continues in our time. Quite frequent earthquakes in this region of Russia are connected with this. To the north of the Central Caucasus, where the magma rising along the cracks did not spill onto the surface, low, so-called island mountains formed. The largest of them are Beshtau (1400 meters) and Mashuk (993 meters). At their base there are numerous sources of mineral waters.

The so-called Ciscaucasia is occupied by the Kuban and Tersko-Kuma lowlands. They are separated from each other by the Stavropol Upland, the height of which is 700-800 meters. The Stavropol Upland is dissected by wide and deeply incised valleys, gullies and ravines. At the base of this area lies a young slab. Its structure is made up of Neogene formations covered with limestone deposits - loess and loess-like loams, and in the eastern part there are also marine deposits of the Quaternary period. The climate in this area is quite favorable. Quite high mountains serve as a good obstacle to the cold air penetrating here. The proximity of the long cooling sea also has an effect. The Greater Caucasus is the border between two climatic zones - subtropical and temperate. On the Russian territory, the climate is still moderate, but the above factors contribute to rather high temperatures.

Mountains of the Caucasus As a result, the winters in Ciscaucasia are quite warm (the average temperature in January is about -5°C). This is facilitated by warm air masses coming from the Atlantic Ocean. On the Black Sea coast, the temperature rarely drops below zero (the average January temperature is 3°C). Temperatures are naturally lower in mountainous regions. Thus, the average temperature in the plains in summer is about 25°C, and in the upper reaches of the mountains - 0°C. Precipitation in this area falls mainly due to cyclones coming from the west, as a result of which their amount gradually decreases towards the east.

Most precipitation falls on the southwestern slopes of the Greater Caucasus. Their number on the Kuban Plain is about 7 times lower. In the mountains of the North Caucasus, glaciation is developed, in terms of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich this region ranks first among all regions of Russia. The rivers flowing here are fed by water formed during the melting of glaciers. The largest Caucasian rivers are the Kuban and Terek, as well as their numerous tributaries. Mountain rivers, as usual, are fast-flowing, and in their lower reaches there are swampy areas overgrown with reeds and reeds.