Gangkhar Puensum (7570 m) is the highest unclimbed peak in the world. The five most dangerous peaks in the world

Unconquered peaks captivate us ...
We strive there, knocking our feet into the blood ...

WHEN YOU CLIMB TO THE TOP OF THE MOUNTAIN, KEEP CLIMBING FURTHER
(Tibetan lamas)

Machapuchare

The most beautiful mountain peak, which, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition organized by Jimmy Roberts stopped only fifty meters from the summit. Conquer one of the most beautiful mountains The Himalayas were thwarted by a promise made to the government of Nepal. The bottom line is that in Hindu beliefs, it is on the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that the Roberts team kept their promise, the first persons of Nepal immediately closed Machapuchare for any visits.

Kailash

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered sacred mountain representatives of four major religions at once - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the government of China, which has occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not allowed it to be conquered so far. All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who did receive permission from the PRC authorities to conquer Kailas, subsequently refused to climb, and the Spanish expedition in 2000, which bought a pass for an impressive amount, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route, and protests from the UN.

Gangkhar Puensum

highest unconquered summit world, rising above sea level by more than seven and a half thousand meters. Located on disputed territory between Bhutan and China, she could submit to the Japanese expedition of 1998, if official Beijing would still issue permission to climb. The Japanese eventually climbed the nearby Liankang Kangri. Gangkhar Puensum could have fallen even earlier, when mountaineering was already allowed in Bhutan, but a ban on visiting peaks above six thousand meters had not yet been introduced (again due to religious reasons). However, the expeditions of 1985 and 1986 ended in failure.

Tongshanjiabu

The peak, rushing into the sky at 7207 meters, is also located on the constantly contested Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiaba, even before the law "everything above six thousand is impossible." After him, of course, and even more so. At the same time, the neighboring Shimokangri was taken by the Korean expedition, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.

Karjiang

This mountain, whose peak is at an altitude of 7221 meters, has not yet succumbed to human perseverance, not only because of the certain difficulties with which Western expeditions obtain climbing permits from China. Karjiang is now considered one of the most difficult and recalcitrant peaks in the world - high technical complexity and an extremely high risk of avalanches, coupled with constantly unfavorable weather conditions stopped on the way more than one expedition.

Gasherbrum 6

Being in a territory torn apart by political disputes (Pakistani Kashmir) does not particularly create problems for climbers seeking to storm this unruly peak. But by no means the highest (6979 meters above the level) mountain of the Baltoro Muztag ridge gives expeditions much more problems than K2, which is the highest peak of this mountain formation. Many experienced climbers have tripped over Gasherbrum 6.

Despite its modest height, barely exceeding three thousand meters above sea level, the Antarctic volcano Siple remains on the list of unconquered peaks of the world. Apart from its geographical inaccessibility, which, for example, did not prevent climbers from climbing Erebus, no additional difficulties of climbing to the top are known.

Unconquered peaks are always very attractive. To reach the highest point, where no one has ever been, is a special pleasure for a climber. Dare!!!

We warn you: the article is full of beauty and aesthetics, from which the next eight unconquered peaks become even more desirable. Especially if you are extreme, love heights, and have been looking for thrills for a long time.

Gangkhar Puensum

Height: 7,570 meters
Location: border between China and Bhutan
Why not subdued: stupid laws

Gangkhar Puensum is located on disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is definitely not disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest of the still unconquered peaks. In the 1980s, four attempts were made to climb, after which a law was passed in Bhutan prohibiting climbing at an altitude above 6 km.

Source: wikipedia.org

North Face Masherbrum 4

Height: 7.821 m
Location: Pakistan
Why Not Conquered: Extreme Difficulty

Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has climbed yet. The reason is the same - the route as "unrealistically extreme".

Source: supercoolpics.com

Siple Mountain

Height: 3.110 m
Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
Why not conquered: harsh climate

This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but low temperature and distance from the civilized world. There are suspicions that Siple Mountain is actually an extinct volcano covered with a glacier.

Source: wikipedia.org

Machapuchare

Height: 6.998 m
Location: north central Nepal;
Why not subdued: religion and law

The bottom line is that in Hindu beliefs, it is on the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that the Roberts team kept their promise, the first persons of Nepal immediately closed Machapuchare for any visits.

Source: green-travel.biz

Kailash

Height: 6.638 m
Location: south of the Tibetan Plateau in the Tibetan autonomous region People's Republic of China
Why not conquered: “sacred” status

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered a sacred mountain by representatives of four major religions at once - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the government of China, which has occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not allowed it to be conquered so far.

All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who did receive permission from the PRC authorities to conquer Kailas, subsequently refused to climb, and the Spanish expedition in 2000, which bought a pass for an impressive amount, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route, and protests from the UN.

Source: wikipedia.org

Tongshanjiabu

Height: 7.207 m
Location: central part Himalayas, 12 km northwest of Kangphu Kang
Why not subdued: laws

Gangkhar Puensum is the most high mountain in Bhutan with a height of 7,570 meters, as well as the 40th highest peak in the world. Many will be very surprised, but Gangkhar Puensum is still unconquered when most of the peaks in the Himalayas were conquered decades ago.

The summit of Gangkhar Puensum lies on the border of Bhutan and Tibet, although the exact boundary is disputed. Chinese cards placed the peak right on the border, while other sources placed it entirely in Bhutan. When the mountain was first mapped in 1922, maps of the area were woefully inaccurate. Even more recently, maps of the area showed the summit at various locations and marked with different heights. One of the first teams that decided to conquer the summit could not find the mountain at all.

Bhutan opened itself to mountaineering only in 1983, as the mountains were considered the abode of sacred spirits. When the country finally opened its doors to climbers, a series of expeditions were organized. Between 1985 and 1986, four attempts were made, which ended in failure. The decision to engage in mountaineering did not last long. In 1994, the government banned climbing mountains above 6,000 meters, and since 2004, mountaineering has been completely banned in the country, out of respect for local signs.

In 1998, a Japanese expedition obtained permission from the Chinese Mountaineering Association to climb Gangkhar Puensum north of Bhutan, on the Tibetan side. But the long-standing border dispute with Bhutan did not allow it to happen. Instead, the expedition went to the 7,535-meter neighboring peak Gangkhar-Puensum North, which had not previously been conquered. The climbers came to the conclusion that the expedition to main summit will be successful if it is allowed to organize.

Bhutan itself has also not explored the peak, and the country has no interest in conquering it anytime soon. With the difficulty of obtaining permits from the government, as well as the lack of rescue support, the mountain is likely to remain unclimbed for the foreseeable future.

Photos from open sources

Mountain peaks can safely be called one of geological wonders light, they conquer, they fascinate and beckon, push to exploits and inspire creativity. The European ranges with their heights cannot compete with the "abode of snow" Himalayas, but among them there are those that are worthy of attention. Below is a list of the ten highest mountains in Europe.

10. Bazarduzu/Kichensuv

Height: 4,466 m (Azerbaijan)

The top of Bazarduzu opens the rating, which means “market square” in Turkic. The mountain received another name from the indigenous population of Dagestan - the Lezgins and sounds like Kichensuv, "mountain of fear." It is part of the Dividing Array Greater Caucasus and is located on the border of Dagestan and Azerbaijan. For the first time this peak was conquered by people in the middle 19th century(1847). Then the expedition was headed by the Russian explorer-topographer A. Aleksandrov. A feature of the mountain is its ice wall on the eastern side.

9. Matterhorn

Altitude: 4,478 m above sea level (Switzerland/Italy)

In ninth place is a native of the Pennine Alps - Matterhorn with a curved peak, reminiscent of a cap that separates two ski resort: Swiss Zermat and Italian Breuil-Cervinia. Until 1865, this sharp peak inspired people not anyhow what fear because of which the Matterhorn was the last of the conquered peaks in the Alps. The pioneers were the team of climbers Eduard Whymper of 6 people. However, four of them tragically died, they fell into the abyss as a result of a rope break.

8. Vicechron

Altitude: 4,506 m above sea level (Switzerland)

Eighth in the ranking, the peak of Weisschron, located on the territory of the Peniny Alps. It separates the two states of Italy and Switzerland, although most of ridge is located in Swiss mountains. Weischron first succumbed to humans in 1861. Then the young physicist Tyndall and the guides Wenger and Bennen climbed to its top. This mountain giant is known as one of the most difficult and dangerous, there are frequent cases of avalanches and deaths.

7. Liskamm

Altitude: 4,527 m (Switzerland/Italy)

The ten mountain titans of Europe include a hill named "cannibal". The mountain was so nicknamed because of the frequent snow avalanches, sharp rocks and dangerous hanging snow blocks. It is located in the region Western Alps and consists of two heights, one of which has an indicator of 4,527 meters. The first ascent dates back to 1891. Then a group of climbers of 14 people went along the eastern ridge.

6. House

Height: 4,545 m (Switzerland)

In the place where the Pienine Alps and the mountain range with beautiful name Mishabel, there is a peak - Dom. The complex shape of this mountain consists of five hills that are so close to each other that they resemble the teeth of a pitchfork. The summit was first conquered by the Englishman Davis with German guides on September 11, 1858.

5. Dufour

Altitude: 4,634 m (Switzerland/Italy)

Peak Dufour is located in the Pienine Alps. It was named after the Swiss commander and engineer who developed military map southwest Switzerland. The top is included mountain range Monte Rosa. It differs from its Alpine counterparts in its fiery red rocks. The first trip to Dufour took place in 1855 by a joint group of Swiss and English climbers.

4. Mont Blanc

Height: 4,810 m (France)

Mont Blanc is located on the border of France and Italy. It rises in the western part of the Alps and is a 50 km long crystalline massif, in the depths of which a tunnel has been laid connecting the two states. The mention of the ascent of Mont Blanc by Jacques Balma and Dr. Michel Packard is dated August 8, 1786. And in 1808 the first woman with the heavenly surname Paradis reached the “white peak”. The mountainous site led by Mont Blanc is a sought-after center mountain tourism where famous resorts are located.

3. Shkhara

Height: 5,200 m (Georgia)

The central part of the Main Range of the Caucasus is headed by the third highest peak in Europe. It is inferior to Dykhtau by only 4 meters, but the interest in it is huge because of the affordable and easy climbing opportunities. The first travelers from Sweden conquered the mountain in 1888, and climbers Soviet Union climbed Shkhara a little later, in 1933. Today Caucasian peak accepts numerous groups of tourists and climbers.

2. Dykhtau

Height: 5,204 m (Russia)

The second place belongs to the Russian mountain peak Dykhtau, located in the lands of the Kabardino-Balkarian Reserve. The first trip to its peak was successfully made by Europeans at the end of the 19th century: the Swiss Zarflu and the British Mummery.

1. Elbrus

Height: 5,642 m (Russia)

The first place goes to Russia, where the highest peak of Europe, Elbrus, is located. For the first time this mountain succumbed to man in 1829, when a scientific expedition was organized, led by General Emmanuel, who received the honorary title of member of the St. Petersburg Academy of Sciences as a result. Elbrus nourishes major rivers Stavropol and the Caucasus with its glaciers and is of great interest to athletes and tourists. Included in the list of the highest peaks of the parts of the world "Seven Summits".

Mountain ranges of the world

Mountain ranges are located all over the planet. They are divided into the mountains of Africa:

Kilimanjaro;
Dragon Mountains;
the Cape Mountains;
Atlas;
Kenya and some more.

Antarctica is famous for its transantarctic ridges. The mountains of Asia include:

Altai mountains;
Ural mountains;
Elbrus;
Himalayas;
Japanese Alps;
Tien Shan;
Kunlun and several other smaller ranges.

Australia is famous for its large watershed range, the southern Alps, and the Snowy Mountains. America does not have many mountains in my arsenal, namely the Appalachians and the Cordillera. Europe has the most mountains.

The most basic of them:

Alps;
Pyrenees;
Carpathians;
Crimean mountains;
Balkan mountains;
Tatras.

Top 10 highest mountains in the world

No. 10. Annapurna I (Himalayas) - 8091 meters

Annapurna I - the highest peak mountain range Annapurna. The height of the mountain is 8091 meters. It ranks tenth among all the peaks in the world. Also, this peak is considered the most dangerous - the mortality rate of climbers for all the years of ascents is 32%, however, in the period from 1990 to the present, the mortality rate has decreased to 17%. The name Annapurna is translated from Sanskrit as "Goddess of Fertility".

The summit was conquered for the first time in 1950 by French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal. Initially, they wanted to conquer Dhaulagiri, but found it impregnable and went to Annapurna.

No. 9. Nanga Parbat (Himalayas) - 8125 meters.

Nanga Parbat is one of the most dangerous mountains for climbing among the eight-thousanders. The height of the peak of Nanga Parbat is 8125 meters. From Europeans

For the first time, the peak was noticed in the 19th century by Adolf Schlagintveit during his trip to Asia and made the first sketches.

In 1895, the first attempt to conquer the summit was made by British climber Albert Frederick Mummery. But he died along with his guides.

Then several more attempts were made to conquer in 1932, 1934, 1937, 1939, 1950. But the first successful conquest took place in 1953, when Hermann Buhl, a member of the German-Austrian expedition led by K. Herligkoffer, ascended Nangaparbat. Nanga Parbat has a climber death rate of 21%.

No. 8. Manaslu (Himalayas) - 8156 meters.

Manaslu (Kutang) is a mountain that is part of the Mansiri-Himal mountain range in Nepal.

In 1950, Tilman made the first reconnaissance of the mountain and noted that it was possible to climb it from the northeast side. And only 34 years later, after several unsuccessful attempts to conquer the summit, on January 12, 1984, Polish climbers Ryszard Gajewski and Maciej Berbeka first ascended the main peak of Manaslu, conquering it. The mortality rate among climbers on Manaslu is 16%.

No. 7. Dhaulagiri I (Himalayas) - 8,167 meters.

Dhaulagiri I - highest point Dhaulagiri mountain range in the Himalayas. The height of the peak is 8167 meters.

From 1808 to 1832, Dhaulagiri I was considered the highest peak in the world. Climbers paid attention to it only in the 50s of the 20th century, and only the eighth expedition was able to conquer the summit. The team of the best climbers in Europe, led by Max Eiselin, conquered the summit on May 13, 1960. In Sanskrit, dhavala or dala means “white”, and giri means “mountain”.

No. 6. Cho Oyu (Himalayas) - 8,201 meters.

Cho Oyu is the sixth tallest Mountain peak in the world. The height of Cho Oyu is 8201 m.

The first successful ascent was made in 1954 by an Austrian expedition consisting of Herbert Tichy, Josef Jehler and Pazang Dawa Lama. For the first time, an attempt was made to conquer such a peak without oxygen masks and cylinders, and she was a success. With its success, the expedition opened a new page in the history of mountaineering. To date, 15 different routes have been laid to the top of Cho Oyu.

No. 5. Makalu (Himalayas) - 8485 meters.

Makalu is the fifth highest peak in the world. located in central Himalayas, on the border of Nepal with China (Tibet Autonomous Region).

The first attempts to climb began in the mid-50s of the 20th century. This can be explained by the fact that most of the expeditions wanted to conquer Chomolungma and Lhotse, while Makalu and other lesser known neighboring peaks remained in the shadows.

The first successful expedition happened in 1955. French climbers led by Lionel Terray and Jean Cozy reached the summit on May 15, 1955. Makalu is one of the most difficult peaks for the ascent. Less successful

30% of expeditions. To date, 17 different routes have been laid to the top of Makalu.

No. 4. Lhotse (Himalayas) - 8516 meters.

Lhotse is the fourth highest peak in the world, with a height of 8516 meters. Located in the Tibetan autonomous region. The first successful ascent was made on May 18, 1956 by a Swiss expedition consisting of Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. Of all attempts to climb Lhotse, only 25% were successful.

No. 3. Kanchenjunga (Himalayas) - 8586 meters.

Kanchenjunga ranks third in the ranking of the highest peaks in the world. The height of the peak is 8586 meters. Until 1852, Kanchenjunga was considered the highest peak in the world, but after calculations based on the data of the 1849 expedition, it was proved that the highest mountain is Everest. Kanchenjunga was first climbed on May 25, 1955 by George Band and Joe Brown.

At all peaks in the world, there is a tendency for mortality to decrease over time, but Kangchenjunga is an exception. IN last years the death rate while climbing to the top has reached 23% and is only growing. There is a legend in Nepal that Kanchenjunga is a mountain-woman who kills all women who try to climb to its top.

No. 2. Chogori (Karakorum) - 8614 meters.

Chogori is the second highest peak in the world. Chogori was first discovered by a European expedition in 1856 and was designated as Mount K2, that is, the second peak of the Karakorum.

The first attempt to climb was made in 1902 by Oscar Eckenstein and Aleister Crowley, but ended in failure.

The summit was conquered in 1954 by an Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio. To date, 10 different routes have been laid to the top of K2. Climbing Chogori is technically much more difficult than climbing Everest. In terms of danger, the mountain ranks second among the eight-thousanders after Annapurna, the mortality rate is 24%. None of the attempts to climb Chogori in winter were successful.

No. 1. Chomolungma (Himalayas) - 8848 meters.

Chomolungma (Everest) is the highest peak of the Earth.

Translated from the Tibetan "Chomolungma" - "Divine (jomo) Mother (ma) of vital energy (lung)". The mountain is named after the Bon goddess Sherab Chzhamma.

The English name "Everest" was given in honor of Sir George Everest, chief surveyor of British India in 1830–1843. This name was proposed in 1856 by George Everest's successor Andrew Waugh after the publication of the results of his collaborator Radhanath Sikdar, who in 1852 first measured the height of "Peak XV" and showed that it was the highest in the region and probably in the whole world.

Until the moment of the first successful ascent to the peak, which took place in 1953, there were about 50 expeditions to the Himalayas and Karakorum (to Chomolungma, Chogori, Kanchenjunga, Nangaparbat and other peaks).

On May 29, 1953, New Zealand climber Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay conquered Everest. In later years the highest peak climbers conquered the world different countries world - the USSR, China, USA, India, Japan, and other countries.

For all the time, when trying to climb Mount Everest, more than 260 people died on it. Nevertheless, more than 400 people try to conquer Chomolungma every year.

Stone touchy: 8 unconquered peaks of the planet

Gangkhar Puensum

Height: 7,570 meters
Location: border between China and Bhutan
Why not subdued: stupid laws

Gangkhar Puensum lies on the disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is definitely not disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest of the still unconquered peaks. In the 1980s, four attempts were made to climb, after which a law was passed in Bhutan prohibiting climbing at an altitude above 6 km.

North Face Masherbrum 4

Height: 7.821 m
Location: Pakistan
Why Not Conquered: Extreme Difficulty

Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has climbed yet. The reason is the same - the route as "unrealistically extreme".

Siple Mountain

Height: 3.110 m
Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
Why not conquered: harsh climate

This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but the low temperature and remoteness from the civilized world. There are suspicions that Siple Mountain is actually an extinct volcano covered with a glacier.

Machapuchare

Height: 6.998 m
Location: north central Nepal;
Why not subdued: religion and law

Kailash

Height: 6.638 m
Location: south of the Tibetan Plateau in the Tibet Autonomous Region of the People's Republic of China
Why not conquered: “sacred” status

Tongshanjiabu

Height: 7.207 m
Location: central part of the Himalayas, 12 km northwest of Kangphu Kang
Why not subdued: laws

Karjiang

Height: 7.221 m
Location: 4 kilometers northeast of Kula Kangri
Why not conquered: extreme lvl 80

This mountain, too, has not yet succumbed to human perseverance. But not only because of certain difficulties with the law. Karjiang is now considered one of the most difficult and recalcitrant peaks in the world - the high technical complexity and the extremely high risk of avalanches, coupled with constantly adverse weather conditions, stopped more than one expedition on the way.

Gasherbrum 6

Height: 6.979 m
Location: in the multi-peak Gasherbrum massif of the Baltoro Muztag ridge mountain system Karakorum, located in the disputed territory of Gilgit-Baltistan
Why not conquered: chores

All the same story as with Masherbrum 4. It is by no means the highest (6979 meters above sea level) mountain of the Baltoro Muztag ridge. But expeditions

also causes a lot of trouble, having the honorary title of the high peak this mountain formation. Many experienced climbers have tripped over Gasherbrum 6.