The most dangerous mountain peaks of the USSR

Climbing these five seven-thousanders is a condition for obtaining the prestigious title of "Snow Leopard". They are also a relatively inexpensive training stage before climbing eight-thousanders, of which there are only 14 on the planet, and this is already the highest category of mountaineering. Therefore, here you can meet athletes from all over the world.

Pobeda Peak, 7439 meters, Tien Shan

One of the most dangerous peaks not only the USSR, but the whole world - the peak of the Victory in the Tien Shan. More people die here than rise to the top. The eastern side of Pobeda faces China, but it is impossible to rise from here, you can only fall down there. Therefore, the rise is carried out from Kyrgyzstan. Almost every ascent is accompanied by the death of climbers. If no one died on this mountain in some season, then no one climbed. The reason is, firstly, a long and dangerous path along the seven thousandth ridge - you can’t go without good acclimatization. Secondly, the steep terrain is extremely dangerous for avalanches. Thirdly, the climbing season is very short: two or three weeks of August, even in this interval you need to “catch” the weather.

You can not go with a wind force of more than 30 km / h. After a snowfall, you need to wait three days, the snow will either blow away or it will compact. This rule is valid for all mountains, but on Pobeda, breaking it is almost tantamount to death. Giant snow peaks are formed here, hanging over a two-kilometer cliff.

The victory cost several lives already at the first attempts to conquer. In 1955, a team of climbers at an altitude of about 7000 meters got into a hurricane. Out of 12 people, only one survived. A year later, a joint Moscow-Kazakh team led by Abalakov managed to climb this peak.

In 1959, Uzbek climbers made an attempt to storm Pobeda “on the fly”, without proper acclimatization. The group was caught in a blizzard. Symptoms of altitude sickness appeared. Not being able to quickly descend, besides having received frostbite, three participants died. The rest were saved, risking their lives, by members of the Kazakh expedition.

In 1960, an attempt was made to climb with the evacuation of the bodies of the dead. Climbers climbed in several bundles. The expedition was covered by an avalanche, several bundles rolled up, some of them managed to get out on their own and dug up the rest, but 10 people could not be brought back to life.

1961: The Georgian expedition led by Otar Gigineishvili went on the assault. Already on the return from the summit, the group got into a snowstorm, three people died, two of them as a result of a breakdown.

The ascension in 2012 of Daria Yashina and Alexander Udovenko, the bride and groom, became tragic. They were physically well-trained people. By that time, 27-year-old Daria had a lot of experience, including solo ascents. But Alexander was not a high-altitude, but a technical climber. The day before there had been a heavy snowfall, the forecast was even worse, and the climbers decided to slip through before the storm.

At the last overnight stay on August 7, at an altitude of more than 7000, they left the tent and went on the assault. Alexander went first. Not knowing the correct trajectory, trying to stay away from the steep slope towards China, he came to the site, which turned out to be a giant snow cornice of about 30x75 meters. Alexander's snow withstood, and collapsed under Darya. Alexander grabbed a sleeping bag from the tent and ran downstairs for help. The descent to the base camp took two days. Then there was a storm for three days. When the weather cleared, visual searches were launched. The wall below the collapse site was completely visible from the base camp, but neither the best optical equipment nor helicopter overflights led to results. Daria was not found.

Peak Khan-Tengri, Lord of the Sky: height with glacier 7010 meters. Tien Shan

Located on the border of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Technically difficult peak with high avalanche danger. Here are located high-altitude hanging glaciers, which, when they break, create avalanches of large volume, with large pieces of ice.

The first ascent was made in 1931, and not only the mountain itself, but also the Basmachi posed a threat. Therefore, the expedition was accompanied by an armed convoy.

In 1986, three people died here, and the following year, a whole group. In 1995, the mountain took five people, three of them were British, and one, Valery Khrishchaty, was on Everest.

One of the most tragic cases occurred in 2004: a powerful avalanche rolled up 14 people, 11 of them died. Using the weather "window", several groups went on the assault at once, and they simultaneously ended up in a dangerous area, they probably made a noise that contributed to the avalanche. Among the dead were climbers from Russia, Ukraine and the Czech Republic. Rescue work was hampered by the repeated avalanche.

Communism Peak (Somoni), 7495 meters, Pamir

This peak is the highest point of Tajikistan.

In 1998, a huge hanging glacier broke off here. Covered the four climbers who worked on the installation of the route. This happened in front of their comrades, who were below. Started right away rescue operation, although it was unrealistic to survive in the ice "meat grinder". The first participant, Igor Sazonov, was found by a long trail of blood. He had several large wounds and his face was practically demolished, but he was alive. The doctor Letnikov, who was walking with the rescuers, operated on him all night in a tent. The next morning, Sazonov was carried with all possible speed to the helipad on a makeshift stretcher. Due to the overweight, the flight mechanic had to be left on the ground. At a height, blood gushed from the mouth and ears of the wounded man. At the request of the doctor, pilot Malakhov flew the helicopter along a dangerously low trajectory, just above the glacier.

Sazonov was rescued, but a year later he died, breaking through in a snowstorm on the Garmo Glacier in the Pamirs to the glaciologists in distress.

In 2016, at the peak of Communism, the chairman of the MAI Alpclub Mikhail Volkov and Natalia Tsvetova died. They were thrown down by an avalanche. The third member of the expedition, Pavel Tsvetov, descended 70 meters in the direction of their fall, searched for comrades for eight hours, but found only Natalya's ice ax.

Peak Lenin, 7134 meters, the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan

Due to the relatively gentle relief, it is the most popular of the seven-thousanders. In climbing slang, this peak is given the irreverent name of Bald.

As many as 16 climbing routes.

In 1968, an aircraft landing was made to the top: 36 conscript soldiers and 10 experienced paratroopers. Unfortunately, four of them died.

The first victims among climbers appeared in 1974: the American Harry Ulin and the Swiss Eva Isenschmidt died in an avalanche. In the same year, climber Elvira Shatayeva organized the ascent of a purely female team. The eight came out despite the poor forecast, and partly thanks to it: additional difficulties would give a bonus if successful. The group had a walkie-talkie, further developments are known from radio communications. At the top, the girls were caught in a storm. Visibility was 20-30 meters, the climbers did not understand where to go. It was dangerous to descend in such conditions, but it was impossible to be at such a height. The wind was picking up, the temperature was dropping. It turned out that one of the athletes has been suffering from mountain sickness in a threatening stage for 24 hours. The order came from the base camp to descend immediately.

In the morning, a message was received: a hurricane broke out at night, which tore apart the tents and carried away almost all the property, including stoves. One of the girls was no longer alive. The rest were frostbitten. After 15 minutes, men's teams advanced to the summit without an order. The Japanese were ahead, but they retreated, having received frostbite.

In the evening came from the top Last messages. Two remained alive. They did not live until the morning and they ...

1986 was a difficult year: several frostbites and a breakdown of the deuce, both died.

In 1990, a real disaster happened here: an avalanche that broke from 6000 meters swept away the high-altitude camp at the site called Skovoroda at an altitude of 5200. It happened during the season, 43 athletes from different countries found themselves under a mass of ice and snow. Three Englishmen survived, having set up their tent below the main platform. Sergei Golubtsov rubbed his feet the day before, so he also did not reach the general parking lot. Vasily Balyberdin and Boris Sitnik, immediately before the avalanche, made an exit above the Skovoroda. Sitnik's bride, Elena Eremina, died under an avalanche. Alpinist Alexei Koren was thrown out of his sleeping bag and dragged several hundred meters. He managed to dig out the Slovak Miro Grozman and take him down.

There are suggestions that the avalanche was triggered by an underground nuclear explosion in China. But also on the eve there was a heavy snowfall, and this is always a risk factor.

In 2009, a search was organized for the bodies of the dead: the glacier brought them to an accessible area. Some bodies were indeed found and buried.

Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105 meters, Pamir, Tajikistan

The most "non-terrible" peak. The ascent along the classical route is easier and shorter than on Lenin.

As on Lenin Peak, 1974 was especially tragic here. Climber Valery Maltsev crashed. This death was the result of an insufficiently trained and insufficiently experienced team. And the hurricane also hit here. On the listed seven-thousanders it is better to dig caves in the snow than to put up tents: it is warmer, there is no risk that they will be torn by the wind and you do not need to dig out the next morning from piled snow.

In 1982, a Lithuanian citizen, Eugenijus Bajoras, died as a result of a snow “board” being torn off.

In 2011, a team from Iran “stuck” near the summit, including several women: the athletes no longer had the strength to descend, and they refused to accept help from the “infidels”. Luckily, there were a few frostbites.

Material consultant Nikolai Totmyanin, Honored Master of Sports of Russia, winner of the Golden Ice Ax award, four times Snow Leopard.

Communism Peak, which today bears the name of Ismoil Somoni, has changed its name many times, being exposed to historical trends. Today it is the highest point in Tajikistan, located in the northwestern part of the Pamirs. Previously, it was considered the highest peak in the USSR, reaching a height of 7495 m.

This is not only the highest, but also the most beautiful peak in everything. post-Soviet space. It was discovered in 1928 during a joint scientific expedition of Soviet and German scientists.

After the collapse of the USSR, Tajikistan was recognized as an independent country, and it was decided to rename this peak in honor of the founder of the Tajik state, Ismoil Somoni.

Pamir mountains

Pamir is a set of unique blue and white mountains. Only flying over them, you can see in detail the rows of ridges, many snow-white peaks of which are decorated with hanging glaciers, and bright green valleys.

If you look at the Pamir mountains from the bottom up, you get the feeling that they touch the sky. From a height, it immediately becomes clear that the Pamirs are a kind of knot, in all directions from which the most impressive in the world diverge. mountain systems. In addition, here you can find a large number of archaeological sites, including even well-preserved sites of primitive people.

Peak Communism. Where is the top?

The discovery of the location of the peak began with a detailed study of the Pamir Mountains by a group of Russian-German researchers. The first information about the peak of Communism was received in 1876, when a military expedition was introduced into the Pamir mountains.

Since that time, Russian scientists began an intensive study of these mountains for useful minerals. Peaks occupying the central region at the intersection of the ridges of Peter the Great, Karategin, Darvaz attracted special attention of the expeditions. Later, the area adjacent to this peak was repeatedly explored by other expeditions, which mapped most of the ridges and peaks located in the Pamirs. However, none of them was able to penetrate into the central region, directly adjacent to the ridge of the Academy of Sciences. The passage was difficult due to the fact that there were a large number of glaciers on the mountain slopes, occupying almost the entire area. Thus, the region of Communism Peak, located on the western side of the Peter the Great Ridge, remained unexplored for a long time, despite all the interest of scientists.

Top Features

Communism Peak is a mountain that differs from the rest of the Pamir mountains in its impressive appearance and is a rock-ice pyramid with four pronounced sides that look like a square. The southwestern wall of the peak is located above the Belyaev Glacier and breaks off at a height of several kilometers, due to which it is not only very steep, but also dangerous. However, this is not all the difficulties that one has to face when climbing.

At an altitude of 600-800 m there is a rocky bastion, the steepness of which reaches approximately 80°. It is in this part of the peak that the most difficult of all climbing routes laid to date pass. Distinctive feature these peak walls is their uniqueness specifications, combining large elevation differences (up to 2500 m). The absolute height of the peak is 7495 m.

Pamir plateau

The Pamir Mountains are almost entirely on the territory of Tajikistan, occupying almost the entire area of ​​the country. It is noteworthy that only 1/10 of it falls on the valleys. The highest of the Pamir mountains is Communism Peak. In the western and northwestern parts of the mountains from the top of the peak, there is the largest high-mountain plateau, the length of which reaches 12 km.

The southwestern part of the peak breaks off with steep walls, and all its remaining sides are occupied by large glaciers.

Climbing the peak

Since the peak of Communism is a mountain resembling a square in its shape, each side of which presented certain difficulties for climbing, they mastered it in different time and from different angles.

The first development took place on the eastern side of the peak. It was carried out by Yevgeny Abalakov in 1933 as part of the Tajik-Pamir expedition sent by the Academy of Sciences of the USSR to climb Stalin Peak (the first name of the mountain). An automatic weather station was installed at the top. Due to this, the opening of Stalin Peak was considered completed, and it was recognized as the highest peak of the USSR. However, the first ascent was extremely difficult. During it, two members of the expedition died, and only Evgeny Mikhailovich Abalakov reached the top.

It was only in 1968 that Eduard Myslovsky managed to climb Communism Peak from the western wall. In the same year, a woman climbed the peak for the first time - master of sports Lyudmila Agranovskaya.

Nameless peak

In the study of a special survey, which was carried out during the expedition to the Pamir Mountains, it was found that one of the highest peaks of the peak reaches a height of 7495 m. map by the German expedition. However, they had some questions regarding the mismatch of heights. Communism Peak, which was 7495 m high, was much higher than Garmo Peak, which was 6650 m high.

This issue was resolved only in the course of complex expeditions carried out throughout 1931, when various detachments of climbers and topographers finally managed to penetrate the area of ​​the Garmo node from different sides of the peak. Comparing the results of the research, scientists came to the conclusion that these are different peaks, and the peak is located more than 20 km north of Garmo Peak. So the nameless peak was finally discovered and mapped. Communism Peak became the highest point in the USSR.

Since the ascent to the peak coincided with the celebration of the 55th anniversary of the birth of Stalin, the peak received its first name in honor of the leader of the peoples.

Renaming a peak

Kaufman Peak was considered the highest peak in the USSR during the reign of Stalin. But since the expedition was carried out thanks to the support of the tsarist general, it was decided to rename Kaufman Peak with the advent of Soviet power to Lenin Peak.

In 1932, the Tajik-Pamir expedition discovered another peak, measuring the height of which, scientists found that it was 400 m higher than Lenin Peak.

After Yevgeny Abalakov climbed the summit and returned to the camp, he sent a telegram about his achievement to Moscow, saying that the peak was named after the leader of the peoples - Stalin. It was this name that was safely applied to everything geographic Maps and decorated them until 1962, when it was decided to rename Stalin Peak as Communism Peak. However, it should be noted that this name also did not take root. And the peak was later renamed again.

After the collapse of the USSR, Tajikistan turned into independent state and in this regard, he again renamed the peak of Communism into the peak of Ismail Somoni - the founder of the Tajik nation and a rather large Samanid state. It is this name that the peak continues to bear to this day.

The author of the book, a famous Soviet climber, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR, Full member of the Geographical Society of the USSR, Candidate of Geographical Sciences. He participated in the opening of Pobeda Peak - the second highest peak in the country, the Meridional ridge, many glaciers, passes, peaks.

For the discovery of Pobeda Peak, Ratsek was awarded the Gold Medal by the Geographical Society of the USSR. P. P. Semenova.

Peru Vladimir Iosifovich owns books, brochures, articles about the Central Asian highlands.

Tireless researcher and propagandist mountaineering and geography in his new work talks about the history of the discovery and origin of the names of the highest peaks Soviet Union- Peak Communism, Peak Pobeda, Peak Lenin, Peak Korzhenevskaya and Khan-Tengri, shows the approaches and routes passed, gives a climatic characteristic of the peak areas in order to help future climbers prepare themselves for the upcoming assaults and fierce battles with high mountain nature.

FOREWORD

The highest ranges Central Asia, uniting into two systems - Pamir-Alai and Tien Shan, together with the Hindu Kush form the western outskirts of the highest part of the Euro-Asian mountain belt created by alpine tectonic movements. The most characteristic feature of this mountain belt is the alternation of huge uplifts with extensive depressions.

A section of the Eurasian mountain belt, in which highest ranges Central Asia, located between 70 ° and 102 ° east longitude. The latitudinal direction of the ridges, which prevails for the chains of the entire mountain belt, is preserved here as well.

In the mountain structures of Central Asia, there are 153 peaks with absolute heights of more than 6 thousand meters above sea level (Shataev, 1974). Among them are 4 "seven-thousanders" and 37 - above 6500 m. Pamir-Alai significantly exceeds the Tien Shan in the number of highest peaks (Table 1).

Powerful mountain uplifts with huge absolute heights are one of the main reasons for the emergence of powerful glaciation (in the mountains of Central Asia, about 18 thousand km2 are covered with glaciers). Moreover, against the background of the scattered nature of glaciation, individual clumps of ice and firn accumulations stand out sharply, coinciding with maximum heights. There are 16 mountain-glacier centers with the highest peaks, from which powerful ice rivers flow.

Climbing the highest peaks of the Earth (“seven and eight-thousanders”), even along simple routes, is always associated with great difficulties (some pay for it with their lives), so their participants must be well prepared.

Suffice it to recall that only a few decades after the conquest of the north and south poles the globe climbers began an assault on the third, high-altitude pole of our planet - Chomolungma, or Everest (8848), and these desperate attempts by 26 expeditions and three singles cost thirty human lives. 32 years after the first unsuccessful assault and one hundred years after geographical discovery summits by the English military topographic service, on May 29, 1953, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Norgay Tenzing managed to conquer the third pole of the globe.

Table (1) of peaks in the USSR rising above 6500 m

Looking back at the successful, and more unsuccessful expeditions organized to conquer the highest peaks of our country, we can draw an important conclusion that in addition to climbing experience, good equipment, sober calculation, each climber needs a firm and unshakable confidence that he will be able to withstand everything. the trials that will fall on him and on the lot of the entire assault group, and that he, together with his comrades, will return safely. Such a morale is necessary, because each climber (in the assault group) is, as it were, integral part of a single organism and the fulfillment of the planned tasks largely depends on its actions, deeds, knowledge.

The purpose of this book is to tell about the history of the discovery and origin of the names of the highest peaks of the Soviet Union - Communism Peak, Pobeda Peak, Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak and Khan-Tengri Peak, show the approaches and routes traveled, give a climatic description of the peak areas in order to help future climbers prepare yourself for the upcoming assaults and fierce battles with high mountain nature.

Five the greatest peaks Our country annually attracts the attention of hundreds of Soviet and foreign climbers. Suffice it to say that if in the first period, up to 1968 inclusive, 1279 climbers climbed here, then in the next six years another 1951. To date, this number has exceeded three thousand, which, thus, puts Soviet climbers in first place in world in terms of the number of people involved in mountaineering (Table 2).

In 1966, I expressed a wish that the Federation of Mountaineering of the USSR establish the highest mountaineering title "Snow Leopard" for the conquest of all four "seven-thousanders" of the Soviet Union. On 1st of January 1975 82 Soviet climbers completed this task and were awarded the badge "To the Conqueror highest mountains THE USSR". Of these, 13 are Moscow, 13 Krasnoyarsk and 12 Leningrad climbers (appendix - they conquered the five highest peaks of the USSR, four of them are Tashkenters (appendix 1).

Among the Soviet climbers, about ten people have 8-12 victories over the "seven thousanders" in their assets. Among them are such renowned high-altitude climbers as K. Kuzmin and V. Bozhukov.

Table 2. The number of climbers and routes climbed to the five highest peaks of the USSR as of January 1, 1975

Every year, at the foot of each of the famous peaks, 200-300 climbers set up their camps. The flow of climbers from the socialist countries is growing irresistibly; climbers from all over the world dream of reaching our regions. What attracts them? First of all, convenient approaches and availability of transport, exclusively interesting areas peaks, the readiness of Soviet climbers to always and in everything to help their foreign colleagues.

The preparation of expeditions requires the most serious attitude to the choice of route, the determination of the most difficult sections and places for setting up camps.

Preliminary selection and inspection of the path is of great importance and plays a decisive role in high-altitude ascents.

The famous Soviet climber (1935) took two years before he planned the best option route to Khan Tengri and made his outstanding ascent to the "Lord of the Sky".

Only thanks to the “pyramids of experience”1 (an apt expression of John Hunt (1954), who used it in relation to the storming of Everest) did the expedition of the Central Council of the DSO “Spartak” and the Kazakh Alpinists Club, led in 1956, manage to reach the peak of Pobeda.

The history of the struggle to reach any mountain giant is full of examples of many years of searching for the most accessible routes.

For the purpose of reconnaissance of climbing routes to the highest peaks of the USSR, starting from 1950, we began to use perspective and planned aerial photography, as well as to conduct visual observations directly from the aircraft or helicopter.

Thus, reconnaissance of the upcoming route to the summit consists of:

a) perspective and planned photography with the help of aircraft;

b) visual observations both from the air and from opposing peaks and slopes;

c) viewing ordinary photographs and aerial photographs through a stereoscope.

From year to year, the number of flights, held specifically for mountaineering sports, is growing. However, when drawing up assignments for the flight of one or another sports facility, it means obtaining materials that are useful not only to climbers, but also to geographers. Thus, perspective and planned aerial photographs appeared in scientific use.

Man, embarking on the path of scientific knowledge of nature, very quickly realized the need to look, for a broader generalization, and therefore conclusions, at the area under study from a bird's eye view. The first scientific climber, Paccard, was attracted to the summit of Mont Blanc by the prospect of looking at the surrounding mountainous country from a height of five thousand meters above sea level. To sort out another tangled mountain knot, the Russian topographer Pastukhov climbed Elbrus.

With the current state of aviation, the researcher does not need to climb beyond the clouds in order to make geographical observations. It will be done for him, and with much greater effect, by a camera mounted on an airplane or helicopter.

Already the first flights made in 1960 on the MI-4 helicopter by Lev Veresov from the Kyrgyz air unit of the Civil Air Fleet to the Inylchek and Zvezdochka glaciers, to the foot of Pobeda Peak, over Merzbacher Lake, allowed us to collect as much new information as we could hardly get only with a tenfold caravan route and months of work on the Inylchek glacier.

Without visual observations from an airplane or helicopter and aerial photography, there can be no modern physical-geographical and even economic-geographical research. The application of this method gives the scientist and the climber enormous advantages. I had to be convinced of this many times, while studying the largest mountain-glacier centers of Central Asia and choosing climbing routes when organizing high-altitude expeditions.

The highest peaks of our country, which will be discussed, are located in three mountainous areas Central Asia: in the North-Western Pamirs, in the central part of the Trans-Alay Range, on the northern border of the Pamirs and in the so-called Tengri-Tag node, in the eastern part of the Central Tien Shan. In this sequence, the five highest peaks of the Soviet Union will be considered - Communism Peak, Pobeda Peak, Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak and Khan Tengri.

This work is intended for everyone who is fascinated by high-altitude ascents and the geography of highlands.

I express my deep gratitude to professor, doctor of geographical sciences, high-altitude mountaineers, masters of sports of the USSR Nin, head of the mountaineering department of the USSR Sports Committee for reviewing the manuscript and correcting the schemes of routes climbed to the five highest peaks of our country.

"The ranges of the Pamirs are connected with the powerful systems of the Tien Shan, Kuen-Lun, the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush, which creates a huge knot out of it, in which the highest elevations of Central Asia are intertwined."

N. Korzhenevsky.

NORTHWESTERN PAMIR

On an area of ​​nine hundred square kilometers, in a system of broken ridges, a whole bunch of peaks rises with huge absolute heights.

This area after the expeditions began to be called the North-Western Pamir, which can be considered as part of the high-mountainous Pamir, occupying about ten thousand square kilometers.

The main orographic unit of the North-Western Pamirs is the ridge of the Academy of Sciences, open. In its northern part, the ridge forms the highest mountain region of the Soviet Union. Here, at the junction of the ridges of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the Great, is the high-altitude pole of our country - the peak of Communism (7495 m).

Directly from the peak of Communism, the Fortambek glacier flows to the north, Bivachny to the east, and Garmo to the west. In the High Pamirs, in the system of the Academy of Sciences ridge and the adjacent ridges of Peter the Great, Darvaz, Vanch and Yazgulem, 40% of the glaciations of the Soviet Pamirs are concentrated. largest glaciers- Fedchenko (71.2 km), Grumm-Grzhimailo (36 km), Garmo (27 km), Sugran (24 km), Geographical Society (21 km), Fortambek (19.9 km), Yazgulemsky (19.5 km ), Yazgulemdara (13.5 km).

12 kilometers from the peak of Communism to the north, in the mighty spur of the ridge of the Academy of Sciences, another “seven-thousander” rises - the fourth highest peak in the USSR - the peak of Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m).

One of the features of the relief of the high-mountainous Pamirs is the presence of leveled surfaces, similar to the firn plateau of Communism Peak. They, as indicated (1945), are observed almost everywhere in the basin of the Grumm-Grzhimailo glacier. Most of the ridges that form the sides of this glacier rise above 4700 m, have rounded peaks and gentle convex slopes. Remains of gently sloping surfaces are observed at altitudes from 5 to 6 km, even among the high-mountainous alpine terrain in the western and southern parts district. According to the same author, the flat tops of the Communism and Garmo peaks are remnants of the Eastern Pamir relief.

Undoubtedly, one of the most interesting orographic features of the high-mountain relief of the Pamirs is the Pamir firn plateau noted above at the head of the Fortambek glacier on the northern slope of Communism Peak.

The first information about the plateau is given in the materials of the Tajik-Pamir expedition of 1932 (TPE, 1934). (1935), when analyzing the vertical profile of the Pamirs, points to the existence of this leveled surface, (1936) drew attention to two alpine platforms as peculiar landforms.

while climbing the peak of Communism (Stalin) in 1937, he noticed the snowy fields of a huge plateau lying to the west of the summit.

The Pamir firn plateau, according to (1954), is a high-altitude horizontal surface of a large area, preserved among sharp ridges and deep gorges. It is located at an altitude of about 6 km above sea level and is limited by steep slopes with a relative height of up to 2 km. The surface of the plateau is covered with snow and firn covers, the thickness of which is measured by many tens of meters. The plateau extends from the crest of the Academy of Sciences ridge to the west, along the main watershed of the Peter the Great ridge, with its north side. It has the following largest dimensions: length along the center line (from east, northeast to west, southwest) about 12 km, width (from south, southeast to north, northwest) about 3 km, area - 20 km2, with framing slopes - about 31 km2.

The leveled ancient surfaces continue on the eastern slope of Communism Peak. The sloping surface of the base of the summit ridge of Communism Peak is located in the east, approximately at a level of 6800 m, and in the west - 7100 m. And here the ancient horizontal surfaces occupy an area equal in length to 3.5 km, in width - 2 km. Thus, the summit is surrounded on three sides by leveled areas inherited from ancient relief Prapamira.

Climatic features. The windward slopes facing the winds carrying moisture are richest in precipitation. For Central Asia, these are mostly open western slopes, although the outer slopes of mountains of any exposure capture some of the moisture. The lee slopes are poor in precipitation, especially during the cold season, when water vapor is not transported to heights by local circulation. This pattern has one feature that is very important for the practice of climbing: the lee slopes of the mountains, close to the passes, are significantly moistened over a distance of tens of kilometers or more. This happens for a number of reasons. First, the lines of sediment flow follow the contours of the ridges in a smoothed form, and behind the ridges their subsidence does not occur immediately. Secondly, updrafts can spread to the upper part of the lee slope and pick up cloud particles, droplets, and especially snowflakes, and raise them somewhat. Thus, part of the precipitation is transferred to the windward slope. Finally, blizzards carry snow from windward slopes to windward slopes and into valleys.

Apparently, for a high-altitude climber, one of the main indicators of the climatic characteristics of the ascent area will be the amount of precipitation and cloudiness, which primarily affect the success and safety of the ascent.

In August and September, the frequency of clear weather is more than 50% and even reaches 70%, while the frequency of cloudy weather is significantly reduced.

Cold intrusions in the area of ​​the Fedchenko glacier are accompanied by a sharp decrease in air temperature, significant cloudiness and heavy precipitation in the form of rain near the tongue of the glacier, and in the form of snow in the middle and upper parts of its flow. Naturally, on the slopes of the surrounding peaks, and above all on the slopes of Communism Peak, precipitation occurs only in solid form.

Prolonged cold snaps are replaced for a short time (2-3 days) by slightly cloudy weather with a slight increase in air temperature. In the first half of September, the nature of the weather does not change. For example, in 1957 in late August - early September at an altitude of about 4900 m (Fedchenko glacier), where the expedition of the Leningrad State University named after the Leningrad State University worked, it was clear with a high intensity of solar radiation. However, in the area of ​​the firn, such weather conditions with a high albedo1 and high radiation from the surface of the firn called a significant decrease in air temperature, which fell to -20 ° and even lower at night. Consequently, at an altitude of 6900 m, the temperature reached -48°, which must be taken into account when organizing an ascent to Communism Peak.

The expedition mentioned above worked on the Fedchenko glacier in 1958, when climbers from the Turkestan military district and Uzbekistan climbed the peak of Communism by the classical route along the eastern ridge (this route was climbed in 1958 for the first time after 1937).

Weather conditions during the expedition July 20 By September 3 The year 1958 was exceptionally favorable: the sun never once hid behind clouds during August and early September.

The expedition of the Leningrad State University gives the following description of the weather of this period in the area of ​​the Fedchenko glacier:

“In the first half of July 1958, there was warm, cloudy weather without precipitation with air temperatures exceeding the norm by 4-5 °. And only on July 15-16 a cold snap occurred due to the rapid western, and then the northwestern invasion. The intensive process of cooling during this period was due to the formation of a high-altitude ridge over Kazakhstan, to the rear of which there was a continuous flow of arctic air, air temperature from 14 to July 16(over two days) decreased at the end of the tongue of the Fedchenko glacier from +18.3 to +5.1° (on average per day), and in the middle part of the glacier - from +7.8 to +2.9°. When comparing the frequency of processes with long-term ones, it turned out that the number of northern invasions into the territory of Central Asia was less than the norm. More often, the territory was under the influence of the southwestern periphery of the anticyclone and thermal depression. The air temperature, despite the sharp cooling in the middle of the month, was close to normal due to high temperatures (up to 30°) in the first half of July. Precipitation has fallen much more compared to the long-term average.

In August of the same year, alternations of cold intrusions with warm, slightly cloudy weather were observed. Cold breaks were observed on 5-7, 11-16, 23-26 August and caused unstable weather patterns. At the same time, cloudiness increased, rain fell, and snow fell in the area of ​​​​Lake Karakul and on the Fedchenko glacier. In general, during the month, compared to long-term data, there were fewer cold intrusions, and partly cloudy weather prevailed. Thermal depression lasted an average of 10 days compared to 6 days over a multi-year period.

Unfortunately, the Belyaev glacier (sources of the Garmo glacier) and the Fortambek glacier do not have such detailed and long-term meteorological observations that would characterize the western (from the side of the Garmo glacier) and northern slopes of Communism Peak (from the side of the Fortambek glacier).

The most complete data on the weather of high-mountain nodes were collected on the Fedchenko glacier thanks to the work of the station of the same name, which began observations in the autumn of 1933, the Altynmazar station with the same series of observations, as well as the meteorological stations of the International Geophysical Year, which worked here in the years. (Vitkovsky glacier and Fedchenko glacier) and, in addition, to the work of the Leningrad State University expedition (gg.).

Some researchers (in particular, 1962) are inclined to believe that when frontal cloud systems approach the Pamirs, extensive precipitation increases on the windward slopes, on the ridge parts, and even on the leeward ones, but not far from the ridge. In the practice of climbing ascents, this may indicate that the western slopes of the Akademii Nauk ridge have more favorable weather than the windward (eastern) slopes facing the basin of the Fedchenko glacier.

Approaches to the peaks. The traditional routes to Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak, which developed during the exploration of the area, have survived to this day. We list them below.

Four directions lead to the highest point of the country - the peak of Communism.

Direction one- to the eastern slopes of the peak, from the Bivachny glacier. This direction was used during the first ascent in 1933 (E. Abalakov and up to a height of 7300 m - N. Gorbunov). It starts from the side of Osh city and passes through the Alai valley, the village. Darautkurgan, along the river. Altyndara, trans. Tersagar (3613), Altynmazar, r. Seldar, Fedchenko and Bivachny glaciers.

The key section of the route is fording the stormy and high-water river. Seldar flowing down from the Fedchenko glacier.

Usually the crossing is carried out in the place where the main stream is divided into a number of branches, on horseback, if possible, into the "low water", which happens after the next cold snap. But since the time of work of all expeditions for climbing falls mainly in July (the time of the greatest melting), the river is always, even after periods of cooling, is full of water. Without experienced guides and strong horses, crossing the Seldar is very risky. It was possible to lead a pack caravan up the Bivachny glacier for 15-20 km. The best way goes along the right (orographically) runtkluft1 of the Bivachny glacier, where there are several clearings with grassy vegetation for feeding horses.

IN Lately climbing expeditions used a helicopter that delivered people and cargo to the Bivachny glacier, and again to the right rantkluft, where the pack caravan also reached. The flight time of MI-4 from Darautkurgan is 45-50 minutes.

The second direction is to the northern slopes of Communism Peak through the Fortambek glacier. Before Altynmazar, the direction is similar to the first one. From Altynmazar the path goes down the river. Muksu (the Seldar river, taking the right tributaries of the Kaindy and Saukdara rivers, gets the name Muksu).

On this path, a difficult obstacle will again be overcoming the river. Muksu and moving further along the river. Fortambek to the tongue of the glacier of the same name.

Below Altynmazar, the river becomes more abundant and it is impossible to count on fording in July-August.

At 20 kilometers from Altynmazar down the river, opposite the Mushketov (Karasel) and Ayudzhilga glaciers, there is a steel cable stretched across the river, through which it is possible to organize a crossing. It is quite applicable to cross the water on local rafts - sals, consisting of a light wooden frame, based on 6-7 bull skins inflated with air. Using this example, you can build a raft from several car chambers inflated with air.

Direction three also leads to the northern slopes of the summit through the Fortambek glacier. The state farm Lyakhsh (Jirgatal district of the Tajik SSR) can be reached by car from Dushanbe or by airplanes of the Civil Air Fleet, which make regular passenger flights along the route Dushanbe - Garm - Dzhirgatal - Lyakhsh or from the Fergana Valley along the route Osh - Darautkurgan - Lyakhsh. From Lyakhsh, the further path is possible only on foot up the right bank of the river. Muksu to the Khodzha-tau point, where a steel cable with a cradle for crossing is hung.

From Khojatau, the preserved trail goes along the left bank of the river. Muksu to the river. Fortambek. The way up the river is very difficult. Fortambek to the glacier of the same name. The fact is that local population long ago left these difficult places and went into the valleys. The only visitors to the upper reaches of the Muksu were climbers, tourists and rare hunters, who, of course, do not restore bridges and paths, but they themselves are destroyed. available in the area hiking trails 25-30 years ago they were in a much better condition and were passable for pack animals. Now the loads for organizing high-altitude ascents have to be carried on oneself, which not only increases the duration of the expedition, but also exhausts climbers to a large extent before the final assault on the summit.

All recent expeditions to the peaks of Communism and Korzhenevskaya from the Fortambek glacier used helicopters based in Lyakhsh, Darautkurgan or Jirgatal.

In the river basin Fortambek has four verified helipads. The first of them - for climbing the Korzhenevskaya peak by the northern ridge along the classical path - is located on a wooded (juniper, birch) ancient moraine above the Fortambek glacier at the mouth of the river flowing from the Korzhenevskaya glacier (3400 m), the second - at southern foot peak Korzhenevskaya, between the right lateral moraine of the Moskvin glacier and the slopes of the summit (3800 m, pebbles, sand, rare stones), the third - at the confluence of the Moskvin glacier with the Walter glacier next to small lake in the grassy shores (out. 4000 m) and the fourth - opposite the Tramplinny glacier on the left side of the valley (4000 m) - the Suloeva glade.

Landing and takeoff of helicopters on the indicated sites are carried out according to the aircraft.

Direction four- from Dushanbe across the Garmo glacier to the circus 1 of the Belyaev glacier, under the southern wall of Communism Peak, to the settlement of Tavildar by regular passenger plane or by car to the village of Minadu on the river. Khingou (240-250 km from Dushanbe) and further - by helicopter to the tongue of the Garmo glacier (flight duration 45-50 minutes). It is possible to land a helicopter on the Belyaev Glacier (4600 m) or drop cargo there without a helicopter landing. The path along the Garmo glacier to the Belyaev glacier takes 2 full days. Helicopter landing is possible only in the upper part of the Belyaev glacier.

Walking route from Minado up the river. Hing-go is very difficult, again due to the poor condition of the trail and bridges, since the population here, as well as on the river. Muksu, moved.

Approaches to Korzhenevskaya Peak. The northwestern, western and southern slopes are accessible from the Fortambek glacier, the northern and northeastern slopes are accessible from the Mushketov glacier, and the eastern slopes are accessible from the Ayudzhilga glacier. Helicopter landing pads are located on the Fortambek Glacier. In addition, on the left side of the Mushketov glacier there are two more helicopter landing sites: the upper one is at the tip of the northeastern ridge (“Mekhnat”, 1968); the lower one is at the confluence of the Mushketov tributary glacier (“Donetsk”, 1968).

On the bank of the river Muksu, at the mouth of the river. There is one more helipad in Ayudzhilga, which was used in 1965 by the expedition of the CA DSO "Spartak" when climbing Korzhenevskaya Peak, and in 1968 by the expedition of the CA DSO "Mekhnat".

Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) should not be confused with Peak Korzhenevsky (6005 m) in the Zaalai Range at the headwaters of the Dzhanaydartak River, the first ascent of which was made by a group of TurkVO climbers in 1951.

THE PEAK OF COMMUNISM

From the history of the discovery of the summit. The high-altitude pole of the country - Communism Peak (7495 m) is located in the northwestern part of the Pamirs, at the junction of the ridges of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the Great. The honor of discovering the ridge of Peter the Great belongs (1880), the ridge of the Academy of Sciences - (1927).

History of exploration of the northwestern part of the Pamirs and discovery highest point The Soviet Union, now called the peak of Communism (gg. - Peak Stalin), is associated with research (1909), and (1916), (1924 and 1926), again va (1928), (1928, 1932, 1933).

Military topographer (now retired colonel), August 2 1928, passing from the Tanymas valley to the middle, then unknown, part of the Fedchenko glacier, plotted the surrounding ridges, peaks and glaciers on his tablet. He had at his disposal a preliminary scheme of the ridges of this region, drawn up (1927). The topographer had the opportunity to compare his observations with the Geneva scheme.

“Comparing the results of my survey with the scheme, I quite naturally took for Garmo Peak,” writes, “a trapezoidal peak (later called Stalin Peak), located in the Academy of Sciences ridge system and dominating the rest of the peaks. This assumption did not cause any doubts among any of the participants in the 1928 expedition. Due to the lack of tools, I could not accurately determine its height ... ”(, 1952).

The final height and location of the highest peak of the USSR were established during the decoding of the phototheodolite survey in 1929. These studies also proved that peak "7495" and peak Garmo, for a long time taken to be the same peak, are different heights located at a distance of 20 km from each other.

The deciphering of the riddle of the Garmo knot was carried out only in 1932 by several detachments of the Tajik Complex Expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences, mainly consisting of climbers.

After the completion of field work in 1932 in Moscow, the results of many years of research were summed up. They showed that Peak Garmo (6595 m) and peak "7495" are two independent peaks, and the true Peak Garmo is located in the left branch of the glacier of the same name, called the Vavilov glacier, and peak "7495" lies at the head of the middle branch of the Garmo glacier - the Belyaev glacier . Peak "7495" turned out to be an independent, previously unknown peak. This explained the discrepancy in heights that surprised climbers climbing the northern shoulder of Garmo Peak in the summer of 1932.

The discovery of the summit, today called Communism Peak, completed the enormous work of Russian and Soviet researchers, which lasted more than fifty years (gg.). Therefore, as in other cases, the discovery the highest peak country cannot be attributed to the merits of one researcher or any group. It was the result of collective labor and meant a brilliant victory for Soviet geographical science.