Mount Everest amazing facts. Terrifying pictures from Mount Everest that stirred the entire Internet

For the brave, hardy and fearless created a lot extreme species sports, but each of the daredevils dreams of something special. Yes, about the top of all peaks - Everest. How proud they are of having done it!

Location

Everest coordinates: 27°59′17″ s. sh. 86°55′31″ E e. It is the border of two countries: Nepal and China. The highest point is in the domain of the latter. Everest is part of the Tibetan mountain system. 8848 meters - the official height of Everest in 2012.

natural features

In terms of height, Mount Everest grows by 5 millimeters year after year. It is also worth noting the temperature that awaits travelers: at night it is 60 degrees, of course, below zero. Since atmospheric pressure becomes lower by 1 millimeter of mercury with every 10 meters, it turns from normal for the human body to not very favorable: 113 millimeters of mercury.

The top of Everest is blown by the wind. Its speed is 200 km/h. Taking into account the coordinates of Everest, you can understand in what area the mountain is located, what kind of climate it is. Thermal belts change with altitudinal zonality. So, having risen a kilometer, the climber will feel that the air has become colder by about 6 degrees.

History of conquest

The proud peak of Everest was first conquered by man in 1953. Made by Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and Tenzing Norgay. They managed to achieve what many people had not been able to do before. With the help of additional oxygen supplies and a more or less known route that travelers from Switzerland had previously laid, they reached the peak.

In 1982 he succeeded and Soviet Union. Unlike their predecessors, they did not follow the knurled path, but found new way. And earlier everyone thought that it was impossible to pass on that slope. Mount Everest was conquered by eleven Soviet climbers, and one of them lasted the whole way without an oxygen mask, and two daredevils climbed at night, which was the first time.

Conquest in our time

The most unusual summit climber was registered in 2001. This is a traveler from America named Eric Weihenmayer. He distinguished himself by the fact that he climbed Mount Everest, being blind. By his example, Eric showed that the main thing is to go to the goal and believe in yourself.

And in 2005, a helicopter with the inscription "Eurocopter" descended on Everest, which became the first invention of the company to visit the slopes of this mountain.

2008 was remembered by Everest for the fact that it was conquered again. This was done by a man who turned 76 years old! Visitors older than him, Mount Everest has not yet seen.

Two years later, everything happened quite the opposite: now Everest was conquered by a young man of thirteen, who became the youngest climber whose foot touched the slopes of the greatest mountain.

tragic cases

For more than 60 years, climbers from different countries try themselves in something more serious than just climbing mountains. Everest trains willpower, gives a desire to live, look for something new, look at the world differently. Those who reach the top really feel like conquerors of the whole world. But there are those who did not come out victorious in the struggle of man with nature, which does not play by the rules and does not spare those who disturbed its peace.

About 200 people died on the slopes of Everest. For those who like to philosophize, there is a task. Imagine that you are climbing a mountain, walking towards your goal. And position yourself as a strong, purposeful person. Here your friend asks for help, if you do nothing, he will die. The task is complicated by the fact that if you take a step forward, then this will entail troubles that will concern you. That is, your own chances of survival tend to zero.

This choice is faced by many climbers on Everest. What do they do? It is enough to look at the corpses on the slopes of the mountain to understand that people go to their goal, no matter what.

Rules

Mount Everest is simply hugely popular, and the government of Nepal not only watches ecological situation, but does not deny himself the opportunity to earn. As for the ascent itself, you will have to be generous, especially if you want to enjoy your loneliness surrounded by cold slopes. But with a group of like-minded people it will be both more fun and cheaper!

By the way, mobiles on the mountain are unacceptable, like other wireless means of communication. If you yourself want to earn extra money, for example, by selling an oxygen tank or doing some other business, then you risk not getting permission to climb Everest. Fans of excessive patriotism and chants with posters may also not be lucky enough to go camping.

Mount Everest should not suffer from your actions, therefore, according to the rules, of course, you cannot litter, all garbage must return with you to the foot of the mountain. Leaving notes on the mountain is also not allowed. And if you suddenly want to take a couple of pebbles with you as a memory of the conquest of Everest, then you will not be allowed to do this.

So, are you willing to risk, perhaps even your life? The conquest of Everest, of course, is not for everyone, only for the most courageous and fearless climbers. A lot of difficulties await you, which will be fixed in your memory forever, you will experience the most incredible sensations and emotions that you have never experienced. Is it worth it? You decide. But if you win the battle with the mightiest mountain in the whole world, you will not return home the same. Perhaps the conquest of Everest will be the most vivid memory, one of them - for sure.

Nepal is known to the whole world as the birthplace of the Buddha and as a climbing Mecca, on the territory of which 8 of the 14 highest peaks of the world (“eight-thousanders”) are fully or partially located. Here, on the border with China, is the highest mountain on the planet - Chomolungma (8848 m), or "Mother - Goddess of Peace", as the inhabitants of Tibet call her.

Second, English title"Everest" was assigned to the mountain in 1856 in honor of Sir George Everest - Chairman of the Geodetic Committee of India. But the geographer himself was against this and called the mountain exclusively by the Tibetan name - Chomolungma. Until the mountain European name she was also called Chomo-Kankar (Tib. "Queen of snow whiteness"). The nature of Everest is beautiful and harsh. In the world of rocks, snows and eternal ice frosts down to minus 60 ° C prevail, and strong winds blow at the top of the mountain at a speed of up to 200 km / h. Ice falls and snow avalanches are a frequent occurrence here. At an altitude of 7925 meters, the so-called "death zone" begins, where only 30% of the amount of oxygen that is present at sea level is concentrated.

The conquest of Everest is comparable only to the flight to the moon. It only takes a few minutes to stand on top of the mountain to go down in history. In order to look at the world from the height of the Chomolungma, people are ready to sacrifice their health and risk their lives. Storming Everest, the climber knows that he has a chance of not returning. Death can be caused by a lack of oxygen, heart failure, frostbite, and trauma. Fatal accidents lead to death (the valve of an oxygen cylinder froze, etc.), and conceited. indifference of neighbors. So, in 1996, a group of Japanese rock climbers, while climbing a mountain, met with three Indian colleagues who were in a semi-conscious state. The Japanese passed by, the Indians died. As one of the participants of the Russian Himalayan expedition Alexander Abramov said: “At an altitude of more than 8000 meters, one cannot afford the luxury of morality. Above 8000 meters you are completely occupied with yourself, and in such extreme conditions you do not have extra strength to help a friend. The tragedy that happened on Everest in May 2006 shocked the whole world: 42 climbers passed by the slowly freezing Englishman David Sharpe, but no one helped him. One of them was the television people of the Discovery channel, who tried to interview the dying man and, having photographed him, left him alone.

Everest climbing records
In total, approximately 4,000 people have conquered Everest to date. The glory of the first ascent belongs to the members of the English expedition - on May 29, 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of Everest for the first time in the history of mankind. Here, at the high-altitude pole of the planet, the climbers spent only 15 minutes. After shaking hands, they buried chocolates in the snow as an offering to the gods and hoisted the flags of Great Britain, Nepal and India, and on top of them - the UN flag. The news of the successful expedition reached Elizabeth II on the day of her coronation, in connection with which there was a legend that the conquest of Everest was being prepared as a gift to the Queen of England. In 1978, a new record was set - the Italian R. Messner and the German P. Habeler reached the summit without the use of oxygen cylinders.

The "Top of the World" attracts climbers of all ages: the oldest person to climb was 76-year-old Nepalese Min Bahadur Sherkhan, and the youngest was 13-year-old American Jordan Romero. But Mark Inglis deserves special admiration: in 2006, for the first time in history, a man with two amputated legs was able to reach the top of Everest! Inglis's legs were taken away (both below the knee) after suffering severe frostbite while climbing Cook's Peak (3,754m), New Zealand's highest peak.
Climbing Everest, Inglis used prostheses. According to him, he even had advantages over other climbers: “I definitely won’t get frostbite on my toes.” And here is another example of the greatest fortitude: in 2001, the blind American Eric Weihenmeier climbed to the top of Everest, who by that time had already conquered the highest mountains on all 7 continents. In an interview with journalists, Weihenmeier said: "By climbing the 7 highest peaks of 7 continents, I wanted to show people that unattainable goals are actually achievable." In addition, in order to realize his dream, a blind disabled person had to earn a lot of money, since the cost of a commercial ascent is up to 65 thousand US dollars, and only one license issued by the Nepalese authorities and giving the right to climb Everest costs 10 thousand dollars. And taking into account the cost of equipment, provisions, accommodation in the camp and the services of a guide, everyone who wants to conquer Everest spends at least 25 thousand dollars. A typical expedition reaches the top of Chomolungma in 2 months: it takes two weeks to climb to the base camp at an altitude of 5360 meters, acclimatization takes a month, and only after a person has adapted to the difficult mountain conditions, you can start climbing. But climbing a mountain with a height of 8848 meters is not the finish line, then an equally difficult descent follows.

Interesting Facts
At the top, winds blow up to 200 km / h, the temperature at night drops to -60C. Since the first ascent, more than 200 people have died trying to conquer the mountain (lack of oxygen, avalanches, frostbite, heart failure). Every year, about 500 people try to conquer Everest, and the cost of climbing using the services of commercial companies is $ 50,000. The expedition time is 2 months. After climbing to the top, a person usually loses 10 to 15 kg.

The hardest part of climbing Mount Everest: the last 300m, nicknamed "the longest mile on Earth" by climbers on the highest mountain. Successful passage of this section requires a very steep, smooth stone slope covered with powdered snow. The site is so dangerous that the climbers on it practically cannot belay each other.

The current height of Everest is based on the readings of a GPS device located on the very high point rocks under ice and snow, established in 1999 by an American expedition.

Mount Everest is growing by 3 to 6 millimeters, or about 1/3 inch, every year, and is also moving 3 inches to the northeast.

Everest is very extreme climate. At the top, the temperature never rises above 0 °C. The average temperature in January is -36°C and can drop to -60°C. In July average temperature at its peak -19°C.
The best time to climb Everest is early May.
The southeast ridge, located in Nepal, is called the route - the South Col, and the northeast ridge - the North Col, starting in Tibet. These are two popular climbing routes.

Geographical position, coordinates of the summit of Everest: 27 ° 59′17 ″ s. sh. 86°55′31″ E d.

You probably paid attention to such information that Everest is, in the full sense of the word, the mountain of death. Storming this height, the climber knows that he has a chance of not returning. Death can be caused by a lack of oxygen, heart failure, frostbite or injury. Fatal accidents also lead to death, such as a frozen valve of an oxygen cylinder. Moreover, the path to the summit is so difficult that, as Alexander Abramov, one of the participants in the Russian Himalayan expedition, said, “at an altitude of more than 8000 meters you cannot afford the luxury of morality. Above 8000 meters you are completely occupied with yourself, and in such extreme conditions you do not have extra strength to help a friend. At the end of the post there will be a video on this topic.

The tragedy that happened on Everest in May 2006 shocked the whole world: 42 climbers passed by the slowly freezing Englishman David Sharpe, but no one helped him. One of them was the television people of the Discovery channel, who tried to interview the dying man and, having photographed him, left him alone ...

And now to readers WITH STRONG NERVES you can see what the cemetery looks like on top of the world.

On Everest, groups of climbers pass by unburied corpses scattered here and there, they are the same climbers, only they were not lucky. Some of them fell off and broke their bones, some froze or simply weakened and still froze.

What morality can at an altitude of 8000 meters above sea level? It's every man for himself, just to survive.

If you really want to prove to yourself that you are mortal, then you should try to visit Everest.

Most likely, all these people who remained lying there thought that this was not about them. And now they are like a reminder that not everything is in the hands of man.

No one keeps statistics of defectors there, because they climb mostly as savages and in small groups of three to five people. And the price of such an ascent is from $25t to $60t. Sometimes they pay extra with their lives if they saved on little things. So, about 150 people remained on eternal guard, and maybe 200. And many who have been there say that they feel the gaze of a black climber resting on their backs, because there are eight openly lying bodies right on the northern route. Among them are two Russians. From the south is about ten. But climbers are already afraid to deviate from the paved path, they may not get out of there, and no one will climb to save them.

Terrible tales circulate among climbers who have visited that peak, because it does not forgive mistakes and human indifference. In 1996, a group of climbers from the Japanese University of Fukuoka climbed Mount Everest. Very close to their route were three climbers in distress from India - exhausted, icy people asked for help, they survived a high-altitude storm. The Japanese passed by. When the Japanese group descended, there was already no one to save, the Indians froze.

It is believed that Mallory was the first to conquer the summit and died already on the descent. In 1924, Mallory and his partner Irving began their ascent. Last time they were seen with binoculars in a break in the clouds just 150 meters from the top. Then the clouds converged and the climbers disappeared.

They did not return back, only in 1999, at an altitude of 8290 m, the next conquerors of the summit came across many bodies that had died over the past 5-10 years. Mallory was found among them. He was lying on his stomach, as if trying to hug the mountain, his head and hands frozen into the slope.

Irving's partner was never found, although the harness on Mallory's body suggests that the couple were with each other until the very end. The rope was cut with a knife and perhaps Irving could move around and left his comrade, died somewhere down the slope.

Wind and snow do their job, those places on the body that are not covered by clothes are gnawed to the bone by the snow wind, and the older the corpse, the less flesh remains on it. No one is going to evacuate the dead climbers, the helicopter cannot rise to such a height, and there are no altruists to carry a carcass of 50 to 100 kilograms. So the unburied climbers lie on the slopes.

Well, not all climbers are such egoists, they still save and do not leave their own in trouble. Only many who died are themselves to blame.

For the sake of the personal record of an oxygen-free ascent, the American Francis Arsentieva, already on the descent, lay exhausted for two days on the southern slope of Everest. Climbers from different countries passed by a frozen, but still alive woman. Some offered her oxygen (which she refused at first, not wanting to spoil her record), others poured a few sips of hot tea, there was even a married couple who tried to gather people to drag her to the camp, but they soon left, as put their own lives at risk.

The husband of an American, Russian climber Sergei Arsentiev, with whom they got lost on the descent, did not wait for her in the camp, and went in search of her, during which he also died.

In the spring of 2006, eleven people died on Everest - not news, it would seem, if one of them, Briton David Sharp, was not left in agony by a group of about 40 climbers passing by. Sharp was not a rich man and climbed without guides and Sherpas. The drama lies in the fact that if he had enough money, his salvation would be possible. He would still be alive today.

Every spring, on the slopes of Everest, both on the Nepalese and Tibetan sides, countless tents grow up in which the same dream is cherished - to climb to the roof of the world. Perhaps because of the motley variety of tents, reminiscent of giant tents, or because of the fact that for some time on this mountain there have been anomalous phenomena, the scene was dubbed "The Circus on Everest".

Society looked with wise calmness at this house of clowns as a place of entertainment, a little magical, a little absurd, but harmless. Everest has become an arena for circus performances, ridiculous and funny things happen here: children come to hunt for early records, old people climb without help, eccentric millionaires appear who have not seen cats even in a photograph, helicopters land on the top ... The list is endless and has nothing to do with mountaineering, but there is much in common with money, which, if not moving mountains, makes them lower. However, in the spring of 2006, the "circus" turned into a theater of horror, erasing forever the image of innocence that was usually associated with a pilgrimage to the roof of the world.

In the spring of 2006, on Everest, about forty climbers left the Englishman David Sharpe alone to die in the middle of the northern slope; faced with a choice, to help or continue climbing to the top, they chose the second, since reaching the highest peak in the world meant for them to accomplish a feat.

On the same day that David Sharpe was dying surrounded by this pretty company and in complete contempt, the means mass media around the world sang praises to Mark Inglis, the New Zealand guide, who, in the absence of legs amputated after a professional injury, climbed to the top of Everest on artificial hydrocarbon fiber prostheses with crampons attached to them.

The news, presented by the media as a super act, as proof that dreams can change reality, hid tons of garbage and dirt, so that Inglis himself began to say: no one helped the British David Sharp in his suffering. The American web page mounteverest.net picked up the news and began to pull the string. At the end of it is a story of human degradation, which is difficult to understand, a horror that would have been hidden if it were not for the media that undertook to investigate what happened.

David Sharp, who climbed the mountain on his own, participating in an ascent organized by Asia Trekking, died when his oxygen tank failed at an altitude of 8500 meters. It happened on May 16th. Sharpe was no stranger to the mountains. At the age of 34, he had already climbed the eight-thousand-meter Cho Oyu, passing the most difficult sections without the use of railings, which may not be a heroic deed, but at least shows his character. Suddenly left without oxygen, Sharp immediately felt ill and immediately collapsed on the rocks at an altitude of 8500 meters in the middle of the northern ridge. Some of those who preceded him claim that they thought he was resting. Several Sherpas inquired about his condition, asking who he was and with whom he traveled. He replied: "My name is David Sharp, I'm here with Asia Trekking and I just want to sleep."

North ridge of Everest.

New Zealander Mark Inglis, a double amputee, stepped his hydrocarbon prostheses over David Sharp's body to reach the summit; he was one of the few who admitted that Sharpe had indeed been left for dead. “At least our expedition was the only one that did anything for him: our Sherpas gave him oxygen. On that day, about 40 climbers passed by him, and no one did anything, ”he said.

Climbing Everest.

The first to be alarmed by Sharpe's death was the Brazilian Vitor Negrete, who, in addition, said that he had been robbed in a high-mountain camp. Vitor could not provide any more details, because he died two days later. Negrete made his way to the summit from the north ridge without the aid of artificial oxygen, but during the descent began to feel unwell and radioed for help from his Sherpa, who helped him get to Camp No. 3. He died in his tent, possibly due to swelling caused by being at altitude.

Contrary to popular belief, most people die on Everest during good weather, not when the mountain is covered in clouds. A cloudless sky inspires anyone, regardless of his technical equipment and physical capabilities, and this is where the edema and typical collapses caused by altitude lie in wait for him. This spring, the roof of the world knew a period of good weather, lasting for two weeks without wind and clouds, enough to break the record of ascents at this very time of the year: 500.

Camp after the storm.

At worse conditions many would not have risen and would not have perished...

David Sharpe was still alive after a terrible night at 8500 meters. During this time, he had the phantasmagorical company of "Mr. Yellow Boots", the corpse of an Indian climber, dressed in old yellow plastic Koflach boots, lying there for years, lying on a ridge in the middle of the road and still in a fetal position.

The grotto where David Sharpe died. For ethical reasons, the body is painted white.

David Sharp shouldn't have died. It would be enough for the commercial and non-commercial expeditions that went to the summit to agree to save the Englishman. If this did not happen, it was only because there was no money, no equipment, there was no one in the base camp who could offer the Sherpas doing such work a good amount of dollars in exchange for a life. And, since there was no economic incentive, they resorted to a false elementary expression: "you need to be independent at the height." If this principle were true, old people, the blind, people with various amputated limbs, completely ignorant, sick and other representatives of the fauna that meet at the foot of the "icon" of the Himalayas, knowing full well that something that cannot make their competence and experience, their thick checkbook will allow.

Three days after David Sharp's death, Peace Project leader Jamie McGuinness and ten of his Sherpas rescued one of his clients from a tailspin shortly after reaching the summit. It took 36 hours to do this, but he was evacuated from the summit on a makeshift stretcher, bringing him to the base camp. Can the dying person be saved or not? Of course, he paid a lot, and it saved his life. David Sharp only paid for having a cook and a tent at the base camp.

Rescue work on Everest.

A few days later, two members of the same expedition from Castile-La Mancha were enough to evacuate one half-dead Canadian named Vince from the North Col (at an altitude of 7000 meters), under the indifferent looks of many of those who passed there.

Transportation.

A little later there was one episode that will finally resolve the debate about whether or not to help a dying man on Everest. The tour guide Harry Kikstra was assigned to lead a group in which Thomas Weber, who had vision problems due to the removal of a brain tumor in the past, appeared among his clients. On the day of the summit of Kikstra, Weber, five Sherpas and a second client, Lincoln Hall, set out together from Camp Three at night under good weather conditions.

Abundantly swallowing oxygen, a little more than two hours later they stumbled upon the corpse of David Sharp, with disgust walked around him and continued on to the top. Despite the vision problems that height should have exacerbated, Weber climbed on his own using a railing. Everything happened as planned. Lincoln Hall with his two Sherpas moved forward, but at this time Weber's eyesight was seriously impaired. At 50 meters from the summit, Kikstra decided to finish the ascent and headed back with his Sherpa and Weber. Little by little, the group began to descend from the third step, then from the second ... until suddenly Weber, who seemed exhausted and uncoordinated, threw a panicked look at Kikstra and dumbfounded him: "I'm dying." And he died, falling into his arms in the middle of the ridge. Nobody could revive him.

Moreover, Lincoln Hall, returning from the top, began to feel bad. Warned by radio, Kikstra, still in a state of shock from Weber's death, sent one of his Sherpas to meet Hall, but the latter collapsed at 8700 meters and, despite the help of the Sherpas, who had been trying to revive him for nine hours, could not rise. At seven o'clock they reported that he was dead. The expedition leaders advised the Sherpas, worried about the onset of darkness, to leave Lincoln Hall and save their lives, which they did.

Everest slopes.

That same morning, seven hours later, guide Dan Mazur, who was following the road to the summit with clients, stumbled upon Hall, who, surprisingly, was alive. After being given tea, oxygen, and medicine, Hall was able to talk on the radio himself with his group at the base. Immediately all the expeditions that were on north side, agreed among themselves and sent a detachment of ten Sherpas to help him. Together they removed him from the crest and brought him back to life.

Frostbite.

He froze his hands - minimum loss in this situation. The same should have been done with David Sharp, but unlike Hall (one of the most famous Himalayans from Australia, a member of the expedition that opened one of the paths on the north side of Everest in 1984), the Englishman did not have a famous name and support group .

Sharpe's case is not news, no matter how scandalous it may seem. The Dutch expedition left one Indian climber to die on the South Col, leaving him only five meters from his tent, leaving him when he whispered something else and waved his hand.

A well-known tragedy that shocked many occurred in May 1998. Then a married couple died - Sergey Arsentiev and Francis Distefano.

Sergey Arsentiev and Francis Distefano-Arsentiev, having spent three nights (!) at 8,200 m, climbed and reached the summit on 05/22/1998 at 18:15. The ascent was made without the use of oxygen. Thus, Francis became the first American woman and only the second woman in history to climb without oxygen.

During the descent, the couple lost each other. He went down to the camp. She is not.

The next day, five Uzbek climbers went to the top past Francis - she was still alive. The Uzbeks could help, but for this they refused to climb. Although one of their comrades has already ascended, in this case the expedition is already considered successful.

On the descent we met Sergei. They said they saw Francis. He took oxygen tanks and went. But he disappeared. Probably blown away by a strong wind into a two-kilometer abyss.

The next day, three other Uzbeks, three Sherpas and two from South Africa— 8 people! They approach her - she is already the second cold sleepover passed, but still alive! Again, everyone passes by - to the top.

“My heart sank when I realized that this man in a red and black suit was alive, but completely alone at an altitude of 8.5 km, just 350 meters from the summit,” recalls the British climber. - Katie and I, without thinking, turned off the route and tried to do everything possible to save the dying. Thus ended our expedition, which we had been preparing for years, begging for money from sponsors ... We did not immediately manage to get to it, although it lay close. Moving at such a height is the same as running under water ...

When we found her, we tried to dress the woman, but her muscles atrophied, she looked like a rag doll and muttered all the time: “I am an American. Please, do not leave me"…

We dressed her for two hours. My concentration was lost due to a bone-piercing rattling sound that broke the ominous silence, Woodhall continues his story. - I understood: Katie is about to freeze to death herself. We had to get out of there as soon as possible. I tried to lift Frances and carry her, but it was useless. My futile attempts to save her put Kathy at risk. We couldn't do anything."

Not a day went by that I didn't think about Frances. A year later, in 1999, Katie and I decided to try again to get to the top. We succeeded, but on the way back, we were horrified to notice the body of Francis, she lay exactly as we left her, perfectly preserved under the influence of low temperatures.

Nobody deserves such an end. Cathy and I promised each other to return to Everest again to bury Frances. For preparation new expedition gone 8 years. I wrapped Francis in an American flag and included a note from my son. We pushed her body into a cliff, away from the eyes of other climbers. Now she rests in peace. Finally, I was able to do something for her." Ian Woodhall.

A year later, the body of Sergei Arseniev was found: “I apologize for the delay with the photographs of Sergei. We definitely saw him - I remember the purple down suit. He was in a kind of bow position, lying just behind Jochenovsky (Jochen Hemmleb - expedition historian - S.K.) "implicitly expressed rib" in the Mallory area at about 27150 feet (8254 m). I think it's him." Jake Norton, member of the 1999 expedition.

But in the same year there was a case when people remained people. On the Ukrainian expedition, the guy spent almost the same place as the American, a cold night. His own people lowered him to the base camp, and then more than 40 people from other expeditions helped. He got off lightly - four fingers were removed.

"Such extreme situations everyone has the right to decide: to save or not to save a partner ... Above 8000 meters you are completely occupied with yourself and it is quite natural that you do not help another, since you have no extra strength. Miko Imai.

On Everest, the Sherpas act like excellent supporting actors in a film made to celebrate unpaid actors silently playing their part.

Sherpas at work.

But the Sherpas, who provide their services for money, are the main ones in this business. Without them, there are neither fixed ropes, nor many ascents, nor, of course, salvation. And in order for them to help, they need to be paid money: Sherpas have been taught to sell for money, and they use the tariff under any circumstances. Just like a poor climber who is unable to pay, a Sherpa can find himself in a difficult situation, so for the same reason he is cannon fodder.

The situation of the Sherpas is very difficult, because they first of all take the risk of organizing a "spectacle" so that even the least qualified can snatch a piece of what they paid for.

Frostbitten Sherp.

“The corpses on the route are a good example and a reminder to be more careful on the mountain. But every year there are more and more climbers, and according to the statistics of corpses, it will increase every year. What is unacceptable in normal life, on high altitudes regarded as the norm." Alexander Abramov, Master of Sports of the USSR in mountaineering.

"You can't keep climbing between corpses and pretending it's okay." Alexander Abramov.

"Why are you going to Everest?" asked George Mallory.

"Because he is!"

Mallory was the first to conquer the summit and died already on the descent. In 1924, the Mallory-Irving team launched an assault. They were last seen through binoculars in a break in the clouds just 150 meters from the summit. Then the clouds converged and the climbers disappeared.

The mystery of their disappearance, the first Europeans who remained on Sagarmatha, worried many. But it took many years to find out what happened to the climber.

In 1975, one of the conquerors assured that he saw some body off the main path, but did not approach, so as not to lose strength. It took another twenty years for in 1999, when traversing the slope from the 6th high-altitude camp (8290 m) to the west, the expedition stumbled upon many bodies that had died over the past 5-10 years. Mallory was found among them. He was lying on his stomach, sprawled, as if hugging a mountain, his head and hands were frozen into the slope.

Turned over - eyes closed. This means that he did not die suddenly: when they break, for many they remain open. They didn’t lower it - they buried it there. ”

Irving was never found, although the harness on Mallory's body suggests that the couple were with each other until the very end. The rope was cut with a knife and perhaps Irving could move around and left his comrade, died somewhere down the slope.

Scary footage of the Discovery channel in the TV series Everest Beyond the Possible. When the group finds a person freezing, they film him, but only ask for his name, leaving him to die alone in an ice cave:

The question immediately arises, but how is it:

Francis Arsentiev.
Cause of death: hypothermia and/or cerebral edema.
The evacuation of the bodies of dead climbers is very difficult, and often completely impossible, therefore, in most cases, their bodies remain forever on Everest. Passing climbers paid tribute to Frances by covering her body with an American flag.

Francis Arsentiev climbed Everest with her husband Sergei in 1998. At some point, they lost sight of each other, and were never able to reunite again, dying in different parts of the mountain. Frances died from hypothermia and possible cerebral edema, and Sergei, most likely, crashed in the fall.

George Mallory.
Cause of Death: Head injury from a fall.
British climber George Mallory may have been the first person to reach the summit of Everest, but we will never know for sure. The last time Mallory and his teammate Andrew Irwin were seen climbing Everest in 1924. In 1999, the legendary climber Konrad Anker discovered the remains of Mallory, however, they do not answer the question of whether he managed to reach the top.

Hannelore Schmatz.

In 1979, the first woman died on Everest - German climber Hannelore Schmatz. Her body was frozen in a half-sitting position, as she initially had a backpack under her back. Once upon a time, all the climbers who climbed the southern slope passed by the body of Schmatz, which could be seen just above Camp IV, but one day strong winds scattered her remains over the wall of Kangshung.

Unknown climber.

One of several bodies found at high altitudes that remain unidentified.

Tsewang Paljor.
Cause of death: hypothermia.
The corpse of climber Tsewang Paljor, one of the first Indian group to attempt the Northeast Everest climb. Paljor died during the descent when the blizzard began.

The corpse of Tsevang Paljor is called "Green Boots" in climbing slang. It serves as a guide for climbers climbing Mount Everest.

David Sharp.
Cause of death: hypothermia and oxygen starvation.
British climber David Sharp stopped to rest near the Green Shoes, and was unable to continue his journey. Other climbers passed Sharpe, slowly freezing, exhausted, but were unable to help him without endangering their own lives.

Marko Lihteneker.
Cause of death: hypothermia and oxygen starvation due to problems with oxygen equipment.
A Slovenian climber died while descending Everest in 2005. His body was found just 48 meters from the summit.

Unknown climber.
The cause of death has not been established.
The body of another climber, which was found on the slope and was not identified.

Shriya Shah-Klorfine.
Canadian climber Shriya Shah-Klorfine summited Mount Everest in 2012 but died on the descent. Her body lies 300 meters from the summit, wrapped in a Canadian flag.

Unknown climber.
The cause of death has not been established.

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(Tibetan version of the name) or Everest or Sagarmatha - the highest mountain in the world. The height of the "Roof of the World" is 8848 meters. For those who don't know Where is Chomolungma, say that in the Mahalangur Himal range in the Himalayas, on the border of Nepal and China (Tibetan autonomous region), but the peak itself lies in China.

Mount Chomolungma - the highest peak in the world

Chomolungma has the shape of a trihedral pyramid, the southern slope is steeper. Glaciers flow down from the massif in all directions, ending at an altitude of about 5 km. partly part of the Nepalese national park Sagarmatha.

At the top of the Chomolungma, there are strong winds blowing at speeds up to 200 km / h. The air temperature at night drops to -60°.

Chomolungma coordinates: 27°59’23″N 86°55’37″E.

Mount Chomolungma: the etymology of the name

Translated from the Tibetan "Chomolungma" means "Divine (qomo) Mother (ma) of life (lung - wind or life force)", named after the Bon goddess Sherab Chzhamma.

In Nepalese, the name of the peak "Sagarmatha" means "Mother of the Gods".

English name given to Chomolungma - Everest(Mount Everest) was awarded in honor of Sir George Everest, the head of the Survey of British India in 1830-1843. This name was proposed in 1856 by George Everest's successor Andrew Waugh, at the same time as the publication of the results of his collaborator Radhanath Sikdar, who in 1852 first measured the height of "Peak XV" and showed that it is the highest in the whole world.

Mount Chomolungma: history of ascents

The first ascent of Chomolungma was made on May 29, 1953 by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary through the South Col. They used oxygen devices.

In subsequent years, climbers from different countries of the world joined the conquest of the mountain - China, the USA, India, Japan, Italy.

Spring 1975 Chomolungma, photo which look further, is stormed for the first time by a women's expedition. The first woman to conquer Chomolungma was the Japanese climber Junko Tabei (1976). The first Polish woman and the first European to reach the summit was Wanda Rutkiewicz (1978). The first Russian woman to reach the summit was Ekaterina Ivanova (1990).

In May 1982, 11 participants Soviet expedition climbers conquered Everest, climbing the previously considered impassable southwestern slope, and 2 ascents were made at night. Prior to this, none of the climbers who were part of the expedition had climbed above 7.6 km.

In subsequent years, climbers from Great Britain, Nepal, the USA again climb Everest along the classical path of pioneers. South Korea, Austria and other countries.

As a rule, it is conquered by climbers in oxygen masks. At an altitude of 8 km, the air is rarefied, and it is very difficult to breathe. The first to reach the summit without oxygen were the Italian Reinhold Messner and the German Peter Habeler in 1978.

Flying over the summit

In 2001, a French couple, Bertrand and Claire Bernier, flew down from the summit in a tandem glider.

In May 2004, the Italian Angelo D'Arrigo for the first time in the history of aeronautics made a hang glider flight over the summit. highest mountain peace.

On May 14, 2005, test pilot Didier Delsalle successfully landed a Eurocopter AS 350 Ecureuil helicopter on top of the mountain. It was the first such landing.

In 2008, 3 skydivers landed on the summit by jumping from an airplane flying at an altitude of just under 9 km (142 m above the highest point of the mountain).

Ski slopes on Chomolungma

First attempt to descend from the summit skiing was undertaken in 1969 by the Japanese Miura. It didn't end the way he planned; Miura almost fell into the abyss, but miraculously managed to escape and survived.

In 1992, a French skier, Pierre Tardevel, skied down the slope of Everest. He left the southern peak, located at an altitude of 8571 m, and covered 3 km in 3 hours.

After 4 years, the Italian skier Hans Kammerlander descended from a height of 6400 m along the northern slope.

In 1998, the Frenchman Cyril Desremo made the first descent from the summit on a snowboard.

In 2000, Slovenian Davo Karnicar left Chomolungma on skis.

Chomolungma and climbing at the present time

From the moment of the first ascent to the summit (1953) to the present (2011), more than 200 people have died on its slopes. The bodies of the dead often remain on the slopes of the mountain due to the difficulties associated with their evacuation. Some of them serve as a guide for climbers. Most common causes death: lack of oxygen, heart failure, frostbite, avalanches.

Even the most expensive and modern equipment does not always guarantee a successful climb. the highest peak peace. However, every year about 500 people try to conquer Chomolungma. In total, by the end of 2010, approximately 3,150 climbers had climbed the mountain.

Climbing to the top takes about 2 months - with acclimatization and setting up camps. Weight loss after climbing - an average of 10-15 kg. The main climbing season is spring and autumn, as there are no monsoons at this time. The most suitable season for climbing the southern and northern slopes is spring. In autumn you can climb only from the south.

At present, a significant part of ascents is organized by specialized firms and performed as part of commercial groups. The clients of these firms pay for the services of guides who provide the necessary training, equipment and, as far as possible, ensure safety along the way.

The cost of an all-inclusive climb (equipment, transport, guides, porters, etc.) averages between $40,000 and $80,000, with the Nepalese government-issued climbing permit alone costing between $10,000 and $25,000 per person. (depending on group size). The cheapest way to conquer Chomolungma is from Tibet.

A significant proportion of travelers reaching the summit are now wealthy tourists with minimal mountaineering experience.

According to experts, the success of the expedition directly depends on the weather and the equipment of the travelers. Climbing the highest peak in the world continues to be a serious challenge for everyone, regardless of their level of preparation.

An essential role is played by acclimatization before climbing Everest. A typical expedition south side it takes up to two weeks to climb from Kathmandu to the base camp at an altitude of 5364 m, and it takes about a month to acclimatize to the height before the first attempt to climb to the top is made.

Or Everest or Sagarmatha - the highest mountain in the world. Yes, Chomolungma and Everest are one and the same. For those who don't even know , we will inform you that the mountain is part of the Mahalangur-Himal range in mountain system Himalayas, on the border of Nepal and Tibet. However, its peak itself is located in China. Near Everest there are several more mountains above 7 kilometers -, Changze, including another eight-thousander - Lhotse.

Mount Chomolungma (Everest) - height and facts

The height of Everest is 8848 meters, and the last 4 meters are solid ice. Chomolungma was "built" by nature in the form of a trihedral pyramid, the southern slope is steeper. Glaciers flow down from the massif in all directions, ending at an altitude of about 5 km. Mount Chomolungma partly part of the Nepalese Sagarmatha National Park. At the top of the Chomolungma, there are strong winds blowing at speeds up to 200 km / h.

Never rises above zero. The average norm in January is -36 ° C, but can drop to -60 at night. In July, the air warms up to -19.

Mount Chomolungma: the history of the name

Translated from Tibetan, "Chomolungma" means "Divine (qomo) Mother (ma) of life (lung - wind or life force)", named after the Bon goddess Sherab Chzhamma.

From the Nepalese name of the peak "Sagarmatha" means "Mother of the Gods".

Everest: history of ascents

The first ascent of Chomolungma was made on May 29, 1953 by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary through the South Col. They used oxygen devices.

In subsequent years, climbers from around the world joined the conquest of the mountain - China, the USA, India, Japan, Italy.

Spring 1975 Chomolungma, photo which you look further, is stormed for the first time by a women's expedition. The first woman to conquer Chomolungma was the Japanese climber Junko Tabei (1976). The first Polish woman and the first European to reach the summit was Wanda Rutkiewicz (1978). The first Russian woman to reach the summit was Ekaterina Ivanova (1990).

In May 1982, 11 members of the Soviet expedition of climbers conquered Everest, climbing the southwestern slope that was previously considered impassable, and 2 ascents were made at night. Prior to this, none of the climbers who were part of the expedition had climbed above 7.6 km.

In subsequent years, climbers from Great Britain, Nepal, the USA, South Korea, Austria and other countries again climb Everest along the classic path of pioneers.

Flying over Everest

In 2001, a French couple, Bertrand and Claire Bernier, flew down from the summit in a tandem glider.

In May 2004, the Italian Angelo D'Arrigo for the first time in the history of aeronautics made a hang glider flight over the top of the highest mountain in the world.

On May 14, 2005, test pilot Didier Delsalle successfully landed a Eurocopter AS 350 Ecureuil helicopter on top of the mountain. It was the first such landing.

In 2008, 3 skydivers landed on the summit by jumping from an airplane flying at an altitude of just under 9 km (142 m above the highest point of the mountain).

Chomolungma and ski slopes

The first attempt to descend from the summit through alpine skiing was made in 1969 by the Japanese Miura. It didn't end the way he planned; Miura almost fell into the abyss, but miraculously managed to escape and survived.

In 1992, a French skier, Pierre Tardevel, skied down the slope of Everest. He left the southern peak, located at an altitude of 8571 m, and covered 3 km in 3 hours.

After 4 years, the Italian skier Hans Kammerlander descended from a height of 6400 m along the northern slope.

In 1998, the Frenchman Cyril Desremo made the first descent from the summit on a snowboard.

In 2000, Slovenian Davo Karnicar left Chomolungma on skis.

Climbing Everest: useful information

Since the first ascent to the summit in 1953, it has become a cemetery for more than 200 people. The bodies of the dead often remain on the slopes of the mountain due to the difficulties associated with their evacuation. Some of them serve as a guide for climbers. The most common causes of death: lack of oxygen, heart failure, frostbite, avalanches.

Even the most expensive and modern equipment does not always guarantee a successful ascent to the highest peak in the world. However, every year about 500 people try to conquer Chomolungma. Total number exceeded 3000 people.

Climbing to the top takes about 2 months - with acclimatization and setting up camps. Weight loss after climbing - an average of 10-15 kilograms. The main season for climbing Everest is spring and autumn, as there are no monsoons at this time. The most suitable season for climbing the southern and northern slopes is spring. In autumn you can climb only from the south.

The cost of an all-inclusive climb (equipment, transport, guides, porters, etc.) averages from 40 to 80 thousand US dollars, and the climbing permit alone issued by the government of Nepal costs from 10 to 25 thousand dollars per person (depending on group size). The cheapest way to conquer Chomolungma is from Tibet.

A significant proportion of travelers reaching the summit are now wealthy tourists with minimal mountaineering experience.

According to experts, the success of the expedition directly depends on the weather and equipment. Climbing Everest continues to be a serious challenge for everyone, regardless of their level of preparation.

An essential role is played by acclimatization before climbing Everest. A typical expedition from the south side takes up to two weeks to climb from Kathmandu to base camp Chomolungma at an altitude of 5364 meters, and it takes another month to acclimatize to the height before the first attempt to climb to the top is made.

The most difficult part of climbing Everest is the last 300 meters, nicknamed by climbers "the longest mile on Earth." Successful passage of this section requires overcoming a steep, smooth stone slope covered with powdered snow. no less difficult is the conquest of Chogori.

Chomolungma (Everest) and ecology

The number of tourists visiting the mountain (not the summit) from Nepal and Tibet over the past ten years has been in the hundreds of thousands. The volume of garbage accumulated on the slopes of the mountain is so great that Chomolungma (Everest) is "the highest mountain dump in the world." According to environmentalists, after the conquerors, an average of 3 kg of garbage remains for each.

Mount Chomolungma photo: