Where is Communism Peak located? Interesting facts: Majestic mountains of Kyrgyzstan

website- Over 90% of the territory of our country is covered with mountains, because it is not for nothing that Kyrgyzstan is called the country of celestial mountains. Their uniqueness lies in the fact that the highest peaks of seven thousand meters, small heights are concentrated in a small area, and also incredibly beautiful landscapes. In total, there are 14 peaks higher than 6000 m and 26 peaks higher than Mont Blanc (4807m), the highest point in Europe, on the territory of Kyrgyzstan. Our mountains belong mainly to the Tien Shan mountain range, a relatively smaller part is located in the Pamirs.

The name "Tien Shan" is translated from Chinese as "Heavenly Mountains"

The first mention of the Tien Shan Range appeared in antiquity. According to ancient writings and travelers' notes, expeditions to these places have been made since ancient times, but now they all look more like legends than reliable facts. For the first time, the Russian explorer Pyotr Semenov spoke about the secrets of the Tien Shan in the middle of the 19th century, thanks to which he received a second surname, Tien Shansky. The name "Tien Shan" is translated from Chinese as "Heavenly Mountains". The Tien Shan Range is the most long spine(2800 km) not only in Kyrgyzstan, but throughout Asia, in the central part of which are the highest peaks of our country - Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and Khan Tengri Peak (6995 m). In addition to them, there are 40 more peaks over 6000 meters high on the ridge.

Pobeda Peak - the highest peak of the Tien Shan

The highest point of the Tien Shan is Pobeda Peak (7439 m), discovered in 1943, the northernmost seven-thousander of the planet, located on the Kyrgyz-Chinese border, in the Kokshaal-Too ridge, east of Lake Issyk-Kul. It is called the most inaccessible, the most formidable seven-thousander - this peak makes very high demands on the physical and moral preparation of the climbers. The history of conquering Pobeda Peak is full of interesting facts. In 1936, a group of climbers climbing Khan Tengri, then considered the highest peak of the Tien Shan, noticed that another mountain rises nearby, rivaling Khan Tengri in height. Two years later, an expedition of climbers headed for it headed by the famous explorer of the Tien Shan, Professor A. A. Letavet. Leonid Gutman, a participant in the ascent of Khan Tengri in 1936, was the head of the assault group of the expedition.

On September 19, 1938, three of the group of Professor A. A. Letavet climbed the mysterious peak and named it the peak of the 20th anniversary of the Komsomol. Experts compared photographs taken in 1938 by Gutman and in 1958 by V. Abalakov and found that they were taken from the same place. Thus, it was possible to prove that the climbers from the Gutman expedition were the first to conquer Pobeda Peak. Thus, Pobeda Peak was discovered - the highest peak of the Tien Shan.

Khan Tengri: "Bloody Mountain" or "Lord of Heaven"

Not far from Pobeda Peak rises Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m). Its name, translated from Turkic, means "Lord of the Sky" or "Lord of the Heavens". Until recently, the height of Khan Tengri was 6995 m above sea level, but according to the latest data, the height is 7010 m, however, some people are suspicious of this. Some argue that this height is determined taking into account the thickness of the ice, others see the reason in the title of "Snow Leopard", because in order to get it you need to conquer five peaks, not four, with a height of over 7000 meters in Central Asia.

At the peak of Khan-Tengri (Kan-Too means "Bloody Mountain"), a capsule is buried that contains a message from the previous climbers who conquered the mountain to the future. Each new climber who has risen to a height digs out a capsule and writes his message in pencil - it is impossible to write with ink - writes his name, date of ascent and buries it again. Despite a large number of accidents, many climbers are still trying to climb the Kan-Too peak.

Pamir-Alay - seven-thousander mountains of Kyrgyzstan

Pamir - "The Roof of the World", the highest mountain system in the world post-Soviet space spread over an area of ​​60,000 sq. km and is strongly an extensive network ridges covered with eternal snows and boundless intermountain valleys that make up the Pamir Highlands. However, Kyrgyzstan owns only the most extreme region - the northern slopes of the Zaalai Range and the northern parts of the Pamir-Alai, which include: the Alai Valley, as well as the Turkestan and Alai Ranges.

Sacred mountain Sulaiman-Too

The sacred mountain in the city of Osh, which in June 2009 became the first monument in the country world heritage. The mountain is a five-domed calcareous remnant, elongated from west to east. Its length is more than 1140 m, width - 560 m. Since ancient times it had a sacred meaning, as evidenced by the preserved petroglyphs. Today, Mount Sulaiman-Too is a kind of Mecca, which is the last hope for many of its visitors. Most of which are women. Someone asks Sulaiman-Too for well-being for the family, someone - for health, someone - for procreation. People believe in the magical properties of the ancient sanctuary.

Mountain peaks:

Aitmatov Peak
A mountain peak in Kyrgyzstan, located in the central part of the Kyrgyz Range, in the region of the Salyk glacier. The height of the peak is 4650 m. The mountain got its name in 2000 in honor of the outstanding Kyrgyz writer Chingiz Aitmatov. Until now, it has been unnamed.

Vladimir Putin Peak
The peak is located in the Tien Shan mountain system. It is located on the territory of the Chui region. Named in 2011 in honor of the second president Russian Federation Vladimir Vladimirovich Putin.

Boris Yeltsin Peak
The peak is located on the Terskey Ala-Too ridge of the Tien Shan mountain system. It is located on the territory of the Issyk-Kul region. Renamed in 2002 in honor of the first President of the Russian Federation Boris Nikolaevich Yeltsin.

Peak Lenin
Mountain peak located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. One of the "seven-thousanders" - the highest peaks of the former USSR. One of the highest peaks of Central Asia, located in the Pamir mountain system.

Free Korea
A peak located in the Tien Shan mountains in the Kyrgyz Range, in the Chui region, on the territory of the Ala-Archa National Park. Its height, according to various sources, is 4740-4778 meters.

Peak Semyonov
Mountain peak in the Central Tien Shan. The highest point of the Saryzhaz ridge (5816 m). It rises above the valley with the Northern Inylchek glacier. The peak was named after Petr Petrovich Semyonov, who explored the Central Tien Shan in 1857.

Crown Peak

Corona Peak (4860 m) is located on the territory national park Ala-Archa. Six peaks from afar resemble a crown, which explains their name. Mountain slopes reach a height of 600 meters, the northern slope - 900 meters.

Evgeny Marushevsky

freelancer, constantly travels the world

Many people will confidently show the highest mountain in the world. However, what about the second highest mountain after Everest?

Here are three points of view on which mountain to consider the second.

All mountains are in the Himalayas.

If there is a place in the world that deserves to be called the hall of the mountain kings, then this is right here.

Michael Palin

This is how a famous actor and traveler spoke about Karakorum. It is here that the second highest mountain in the world is located, if you count from sea level - Chogori or K2.

Located on the border of China and Pakistan, it is located in the state of Kashmir and belongs to the Karakoram mountain range. Its other names: Dapsang, Godwin-Austin.

It is noteworthy that there was a long dispute regarding K-2, to which mountain system it should be attributed. Since the Himalayas and the Karakorum practically consist of one chain of mountains. As a result, a conference of scientists who gathered on this occasion decided to attribute Mount Chogori to Karakorum.

The height of the mountain is 8611 meters above sea level. This is only 237 meters below Everest. But if the highest mountain in the world could be conquered even by disabled people in prostheses and elderly climbers, then Chogori belongs to the most difficult system for climbers.

Peak name

The second name of Mount Chogori is K2. The letter K stands for Karakoram. Contrary to popular belief, the numbering has nothing to do with the height of the top. Just in this way, a European explorer marked the mountains in front of him:

• K1 - Marchebroom,
• K2 - Chogori,
• K3 - Broad Peak,
• K5 - Garshebrum I,
• K4 - Garshebrum II.

Of all the names, only K2 stuck.

By the way, on Soviet maps until 1960 the mountain was named after Godwin Austen. Further name - Chogori.

Interestingly, the Pakistani government charges climbers about $900 for climbing Mount K2.

Chogori - killer mountain

For the first time I encounter a mountain that cannot be climbed from any direction. Everest was a walk compared to K2.

Reinhold Messner

Why was Chogori called the killer mountain? Because not everyone she lets in to her peak. According to statistics, every fourth climber who dared to climb dangerous mountain, does not return home.

At the moment, Mount Chogori has been conquered only 300 times, of which about 70 attempts were the last for climbers. In terms of danger among the "eight-thousanders", that is, mountains with a height of 8000 m or more, K2 ranks second after the infamous Annapurna. The death rate of the summit is about 25%.

Why such a high death rate?

The features of the human body are such that when climbing to a height of more than 6000 meters, the body goes into survival mode. Sleep and rest, although they do not restore strength, but save their remnants, serve as energy savings.

If climbing a mountain depended only on a person, then one could still understand the failed climbing attempts. But at such a high altitude, much also depends on wind speed, accidental failures in crevices or frostbite, an avalanche, or simply diseases that arose due to lack of oxygen.

At altitudes above 6000 m, the oxygen content is less than 1/3 of the permissible value without risk to human health. And the temperature conditions on the mountain are severe: -50 ° C with warm air from Tibet! If it is not there, you have to be content with -60 ° C.

The icy surface of the mountain, unpredictable climate, the most technically difficult terrain for climbers lead to the fact that the mountain takes every fourth daredevil.

A history of ups and downs

The first attempt to conquer Chogori was made in 1902. Six Europeans led by E. Ekenstein and A. Crowley ventured to climb to a height of 6525 m.

The first expedition was not successful. Stormy weather prevented their plans from being realized. However, thanks to this attempt, it was possible to collect key information about the state of the Godwin-Austen glacier, which served as a reliable foundation for the chain of further ascents.

Seven years later, there will be a second attempt to climb the unconquered Chogori by an expedition led by the Duke of Abruzzi. But it also ends badly.

Progress was made in 1938, when the Americans set a record - 7925 m, and the next year - 8382. Tragic death members of the expedition, including Dudley Wolf, forced the climbers to turn back.

Victory in the Conquest of Chogori

The first successful ascent became possible only in 1954. Only a quarter of a century after the first attempt. The first climbers who conquered Chogori were the Italian climbers Lino Lacedeli and Aquile Compagnoni. From camp 9 they continued their ascent when they ran out of oxygen just 150 meters from the summit. Then, in spite of everything, the Italians continued on their way and were the first to reach K2.

The first lone climber to conquer Chogori without oxygen was Messner Reingold.

The first woman to climb K2 was Wanda Rutkiewicz (1986). If we take into account the ascent of Chogori without oxygen tanks, then the first woman was Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner.

Russian climbers conquered the second highest mountain in the world in 1997. And in 2007, the Russians made an incredibly difficult ascent on the western slope of the mountain, which no one had yet climbed.

The second highest mountain in the world in the ranking of mountain systems

If we compare mountain systems with each other, we get the following table of the highest mountains:

After Everest, which has a height of 8448 m, the second highest mountain that does not belong to the Himalayan system of mountain ranges is Communism Peak in the Pamirs, its height is 7495 m.

A Brief History of Ismail Somoni Peak

In the USSR, it was considered the highest mountain. Location of Communism Peak - Tajikistan. Today the mountain bears the name of Ismail Somoni.

Communism Peak was discovered in 1920 and mistakenly thought it was Garmo Peak. However, during the research, inconsistencies in height were found, so the mountain was renamed Stalin Peak.

The first ascent to Stalin Peak (former name) was made by Yevgeny Abalakov together with the Pamir expedition. Among women climbers, the first was Lyudmila Agranovskaya.

And in 1986, a winter ascent to the mountain was made for the first time.

The second highest mountain in the world: a comparison between the continents

The second highest mountain in South America is Aconcagua. It is also the highest mountain in the southern and western hemisphere.

Aconcagua is located in the Andes mountain range. Its height is 6962 m.

Climbing Mount Aconcagua is easy. Most often, climbers climb the northern slope. On the other sides of the mountain, the climb will be more difficult.

The first person to conquer the six-thousander Aconcagua was an Englishman. His name was Edward Fitzgerald. He climbed the mountain with an expedition in 1897.

Mountains and mountainous regions of the USSR

In the European part of the USSR, there are the Khibiny, Carpathians, mountains of the Crimea and the Urals. In the Asian part of the country, there are much more mountainous areas of interest to climbers. From the south, the mountains of the Caucasus adjoin the European part of the country, in Central Asia Pamir and Tien Shan are located. Altai (Altai Mountains) is located in the southeast of the West Siberian Plain. In the border regions stretched the Sayans and mountain ranges Transbaikalia. in Eastern Siberia and Far East mountainous areas occupy a large space. The mountains of the Soviet Union are not the same in their origin and age, in their geological structure, and in the composition of the rocks that compose them. The youngest mountains (Alpine and Pacific folding) are the Ukrainian Carpathians, the Crimean Mountains. The Greater and Lesser Caucasus, the Pamirs, the ranges of Kamchatka and Sakhalin. The mountains of middle age (Mesozoic folding) are the Chersky, Stanovoy, Verkhoyansky, Sikhote-Alin ridges. The old mountains (Late Paleozoic folding) include the Ural Mountains, Tien Shan, part of the ranges of Transbaikalia. Below is short description mountainous regions of the USSR, which are of interest to climbers.

Khibiny located on Kola Peninsula. These are ancient, destroyed mountains, the peaks are smoothed, the slopes are steep. In wide valleys - lakes. The highest point is Chasnachorr (1191 m).

Carpathians. On the territory of the USSR there is a part of the mountain arc of the Carpathians - the Ukrainian Carpathians. These are medium-altitude mountains separated by narrow picturesque valleys. The ridges stretch in parallel, have gentle slopes. The highest point of the Ukrainian Carpathians is Hoverla (2061 m).

Crimean mountains stretched for almost 150 km along the southern coast of Crimea, have the character of a low plateau, breaking off to the sea with almost sheer walls. Main ridge Crimean mountains composed of limestone. They are broken by cracks, through which water penetrates deep into. Voids, caves, funnels, failures appear. The highest point is Roman-Kosh (1545 m).

Caucasus- mostly mountainous country. It stretches between the Black and Azov Seas in the west and the Caspian Sea in the east. The Kuma-Manych depression is considered the northern border of the Caucasus; for the south - accepted state border USSR with Turkey and Iran, going from the Black Sea to the Caspian. The Caucasus is divided into two parts - North Caucasus and Transcaucasia, the border between which is drawn along the watershed ridge of the Greater Caucasus and along the Psou River. The Greater Caucasus is located in the central part of the Caucasus ( Caucasian Range) with many peaks exceeding 5000 m and covered with eternal snows and glaciers. The lower parts of the slopes of the Greater Caucasus for the most part covered with dense broad-leaved forests, higher - fir-spruce (in the west) and pine (in the east), even higher - subalpine and alpine meadows. In the south, the Suram Range connects the Greater Caucasus with the Lesser Caucasus ranges, which are significantly inferior in height to the Greater Caucasus and do not have glaciers. The Greater Caucasus is a complexly built mountain system, consisting of a number of mountain ranges and spurs. Its length is about 1500 km, width up to 180-160 km. The main part of the mountain system of the Greater Caucasus is made up of the Main, or Dividing Range, and the Side Range accompanying it from the north, cut by the upper reaches of the rivers into separate links. In the eastern half of the Greater Caucasus, east of the river. Ardon) the massifs of the Lateral Range are higher than the Dividing Range. Along the strike, the Greater Caucasus is divided into three parts: Western Caucasus, Central Caucasus and East. The boundaries between them are the cross sections passing through Elbrus and Kazbek - ancient extinct volcanoes. Between Elbrus (5642 m), which is the highest point of the Caucasus and Kazbek (5033 m), is the highest, glacier-covered Central Caucasus. Many peaks exceed 5000 m - Dykhtau (5204 m), Shkhara (5058 m), etc. More than 200 peaks are higher than 4000 m, of which 15 exceed the highest point in Western Europe - Mont Blanc (4810 m) and 30 - the height of 4500 m - Ushba (4696 m), Gestola (4860 m), Katyntau (4970 m) and others. Peaks and ridges are sharp, sharp, composed mostly of granites and crystalline schists. Mountain-glacial forms are characteristic: glacial cirques, trough-shaped valleys, etc. The Western Caucasus is lower than the Central. The highest point is Dombay-Ulgen (4046 m) at the headwaters of the Teberda River. The landforms are also sharp, rocky. The Eastern Caucasus (eastern Kazbek) is higher than the Western one, but inferior in height Central Caucasus. Many peaks exceed 4000 m. The highest points are Tebulosmta (4493 m) on the Side Ridge and Bazardyuzyu (4466 m) on Vodorazdelny. The ridges of the Greater Caucasus in their middle part are covered with eternal snows. The height of the snow line is from 2850 m in the west to 3800 m in the east. total area glaciation reaches 2000 km2, of which 144 km2 is occupied by the glaciation of the Elbrus massif. The total number of glaciers is about 1400, some glaciers exceed the length of 12 km - Dykhsu, Bezengi, Karaugom, Lekzyr, Tsanner. The mountains of the Lesser Caucasus (Transcaucasia) consist of the southern marginal ranges, which are folded chains in the north and northeast, and the inner region, which is part of the Armenian Highlands, which continues into Turkey and Iran. The peaks of the Lesser Caucasus are not high, the exception is the city of Aragats (4090m). The Caucasus Mountains are a great place for the development of mountaineering. There are conditions for climbing up to the highest category of difficulty.

Ural (Ural Mountains)- a low mountainous country stretching along the border of Europe and Asia for a distance of more than 2000 km. The width of the Urals varies from 60 to 150 km. By the nature of the relief and other natural features The Urals are divided into Northern, Middle and Southern. In the Northern Urals, two of its sections are distinguished under the name of the Subpolar and Polar Urals. The Polar Urals stretches from Konstantinov Kamen to the upper reaches of the river. Khulgi. Its highest point is Pai-Er (1499 m). The subpolar Urals is located between the upper reaches of the river. Khulgi and the latitudinal segment of the river. Shchugor. It consists of two parallel ridges: Research with the highest peak of the Urals - Mount Narodnaya (1895 m) and Narodno-Itinsky (average height 1300-1400m). The Northern Urals stretches in the meridional direction from the river. Shchugor to Oslyanka (1122 m), Middle Ural- from the city of Oslyanka to the city of Yurma (1002m). The Southern Urals is located between the latitudinal sections of the river. Ufa and r. Ural. The highest point of the Southern Urals is Yamantau (1640 m). Almost in all regions of the Urals there are rocks of various profiles.

Pamir- a mountainous country in the southeast of Central Asia. It is limited in the north by the Zaalai Range; in the east - the Kashgar Range; in the south - at the foot of the Hindu Kush; in the west - the river valley. Panj (upper reaches of the Amu Darya). In the northwest, it includes the upper parts of the Mukeu and Obikhingou river basins. Most of the Pamirs belong to the USSR (Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous region and part of the Garm region of the Tajik SSR). The eastern and southern outskirts of the Pamirs are located on the territory of China and Afghanistan. The highest ridges of the Pamirs: in the east - the Kashgar ridge with the highest point of the entire Pamir - the peak of Kongur (7719 m), in the west - the ridge of the Academy spider with the highest point of the Soviet Pamir - the peak of Communism (7495 m); in the north - the Zaalai Range with Lenin Peak (7134 m); in the south, the Hindu Kush adjoins the Pamirs with heights of more than 7000 m. The relief of the Eastern Pamirs, despite the huge absolute height (over 6000 m), is characterized by relatively low relative heights (1800-2200 m), rounded outlines of mountain ranges and massifs, separated by wide flat-bottomed valleys located at an altitude of 3700-4200 m, and endless basins. Conventionally, the border between the Eastern and Western Pamirs is drawn along the line connecting the meridional Zulumart ridge with the Usoy dam on the river. Murghab. In the northern part of the Eastern Pamirs there is a vast basin of the lake. Karakul, bordered from the south by the Muzkol ridge (the highest point is the peak of Soviet officers, 6233 m). To the east of the Muzkol ridge lies a basin occupied by the Rangkul and Shorkul lakes. The southwestern part of the Eastern Pamirs is crossed by parallel latitudinal ridges of the North and South Alichursky and the eastern part of the Vakhan, reaching 6504 m at the peak of the Snow Block. The relief of the Western Pamirs is characterized by parallel ridges, elongated from the northeast to the southwest. To the south of the Zaalaysky ridge are located: the Peter the Great ridge with Moscow peak (6785 m), Darvazsky with Arnavad peak (6088 m), Vanchsky, Yazgulemsky with Revolution peak (6987 m), Rushansky, Shungansky and Shakhdarinsky with Karl Marx peak (6726 m). The ridges of Peter the Great, Darvazsky, Vanchsky and Yazgulemsky are adjacent in the east to the meridional ridge of the Academy of Sciences. The sharp jagged ridges of the ridges of the Western Pamir rise above the bottoms of the valleys by 2000-3000 m or more (the peak of the Revolution rises 4200 m above the Bartang valley). Deep valleys, located at an altitude of 2000-3000 m, look like narrow gorges with steep rocky slopes. There are ancient glacial landforms - "ram's foreheads", trough valleys. Extensive rubbly screes at the bases of slopes and alluvial fans are characteristic. The total area of ​​Pamir glaciation within the borders of the USSR is 8041 km2. The number of glaciers is 1085. Mainly two types of glaciers are developed - cirque and valley glaciers. The height of the snow line varies from 3800 m in the northwest to 5200 m in the area of ​​the lake. Karakul and in the Muzkolsky ridge. The largest center of glaciation is the ridge of the Academy of Sciences with the adjoining ridges of Peter the Great, Darvazsky, Vanchsky and Yazgulemsky. 40% of the glaciers of the Soviet Pamirs are concentrated here. The Fedchenko glacier (length 77 km), glaciers Grum-Grzhimailo (36 km), Garmo (27 km), Sagran (24 km) and others originate in the Peter the Great Ridge. Large sizes the glaciation of the Zaalai Range also reaches.

Pamir-Alai- unites mountain systems located in the southeast of Central Asia, south of the Ferghana Valley. Includes Alai, Turkestan, Zeravshan, Gissar ranges and their western spurs, Pamir and southwestern spurs of the Peter the Great ridge. Between the Zeravshan and Gissar ranges there is a mountain junction - the Fann Mountains, which carry significant glaciation. The highest peaks of this node are Chimtarga (5494 m), Bolshaya Ganza (5415 m), Chapdara (5197 m), Bodkhana (5304 m). There are many long glaciers in the Pamir-Alai. Zeravshansky glacier - 25 km, Preobrazhensky glacier - 16 km, etc.

Tien Shan. Tien Shan, or Heavenly Mountains, is a powerful mountain system in Asia, located between 40-45 ° N. sh. and 67-95 ° in. e. The western part is within the USSR, the eastern part is in China. The highest points are Pobeda Peak (7439 m), which rises on the border of the USSR and China, Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m) is located on the territory of the USSR. Within the USSR, the Tien Shan mountains stretch for 1200 km. Western Tien Shan. In the region of Khan-Tengri - Pobeda Peak, the main ranges of the Tien Shan diverge. To the west, the ridges diverge fan-shaped. A more northern branch is isolated: the Kungei-Alatau ridge, bordering the Issyk-Kul basin from the north, and the Zailiysky Alatau ridge lying to the north, as well as the Chu-Ili mountains. All these ranges belong to the Northern Tien Shan. The northernmost ridge of the Zailiysky Alatau with the peak of Talgar (4973 m) is undergoing significant glaciation. The height of the mountains here exceeds 4000 m. The most famous peaks are Metallurg Peak (4800 m), Aktau (4270 m), Iintau (4820 m), Ordzhonikidze Peak (4440 m), Frunze Peak (4450 m), Pogrebetsky Peak (4219 m) and others. To the south-west of Khan-Tengri stretches the Kokshaal-Tau ridge, and to the west Terskey-Alatau, which limits the lake basin from the south. Issyk-Kul. The area enclosed between the ranges of Kokshaal-Tau, Ferghana, the eastern segment of the Kyrgyz Range, Terskey-Alatau, is referred to as the Central Tien Shan. The highest heights are observed in the Central Tien Shan. In the Tengri-Tag ridge, in addition to Khan-Tengri peak, there are Chapaev peak (6371 m), Shater peak (6636 m), Gorky peak (6050 m). In the Kokshaal-Tau ridge there is the second seven-thousander of the USSR - Pobeda Peak (7439 m), to the west of Pobeda Peak rise 6920 m and 6740 m. Despite the fact that the snow line is highest in the Central Tien Shan (up to 4200 m), due to high altitude mountains, the largest glaciation (about 2500 km2) is observed in the Khan-Tengri region, where the South Inylchek glacier reaches about 60 km in length, the Kaindy glacier is 28 km, and the Semenov glacier is 18 km. There are many valley, cirque and hanging glaciers.

Altai- a mountainous country in Western Siberia. In the northeast, Altai is in contact with the Kuznetsk Ala-Tau and with Western Sayan, the western foothills connect it with the uplands of the Kazakh hilly hills, to the southeast it goes beyond the USSR, where it is called Mongolian Altai. Within the USSR, from the border mountain node Tabyn-Bogdo-Ula (Tabun-Bogdo - 4653 m), the system of Southern Altai ridges stretches to the west in the latitudinal direction, and to the east - the Saylyugem ridge - the system of Eastern Altai. Inside the arc formed by these main ridges, a complex fan of ridges of the Central Altai is scattered. The Southern Altai, which separates the Black Irtysh and Lake Zaisan from the Bukhtarma basin, reaches 3900 m in the eastern part. The ranges that make up it are called Tarbagatai, Sarym-Sakty and Narymsky. Eastern Altai with a height of 3000-4000 m is a group of ridges - Saylyugem, Chikhachev and Shapshal ridges, stretching along the watershed of the Ob and Yenisei. The Chulyshmansky and Kuraisky-Aigulaisky ridges depart from them to the north-west, the spurs of which fill the space between the river. Katunyo and Teletskoye Lake. Central Altai is represented by two long mountain ranges. The southern chain consists of the Yuzhno-Chuysky ridge, separated from it by the Argut deep gorge, the Katunsky ridge and the Kholzun ridge lying behind the Katun valley. In the Katunsky ridge is the highest point of the Soviet Altai - double-headed mountain Belukha (4506 m). In addition to Belukha, peaks rise; peak 20 years of October (4167 m), peak 50 years of the CPSU (4000 m), Sapozhnikov peak (3950 m), etc. The total area of ​​Altai glaciation is 596 sq. km. km. Two types of glaciers are mainly developed - cirque and valley glaciers. Glaciers are concentrated in several centers of glaciation; from Belukha mountain radially descend 6 large glaciers: Mensu (11 km), Katunsky (8 km), Bolshoi Berelsky (8 km), etc.

Mountains of Kamchatka. In the middle part of the Kamchatka Peninsula there are two parallel ridges - Seredinny and Vostochny. The main ridge-Sredinny (with heights of 1500-2000 m) - begins to the north of the river. Plotnikova and runs along the entire peninsula. The maximum height of the Sredinny Ridge reaches 3621 m (extinct volcano Ichinsky). The eastern ridge is a system of ridges, elongated one after another along the entire peninsula - the Ganalsky Vostryaki ridge (the highest point is the city of Yurchan - 2060 m), the Valagin ridge, which does not rise above 1500 m, and the Kumroch ridge with a volcanic peak 2375 m high. East Coast Kamchatka is strongly dissected and represents a volcanic highland. There are about 120 volcanoes in Kamchatka, 22 of them are active. The highest point of Kamchatka is the highest active volcano in the Eastern Hemisphere - Klyuchevskaya Sopka (4850m).

The author of the book, a famous Soviet climber, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR, Full member of the Geographical Society of the USSR, Candidate of Geographical Sciences. He participated in the opening of Pobeda Peak - the second highest peak in the country, the Meridional ridge, many glaciers, passes, peaks.

For the discovery of Pobeda Peak, Ratsek was awarded the Gold Medal by the Geographical Society of the USSR. P. P. Semenov.

Peru Vladimir Iosifovich owns books, brochures, articles about the Central Asian highlands.

A tireless researcher and promoter of mountaineering and geography in his new work tells about the history of the discovery and origin of the names of the highest peaks of the Soviet Union - Communism Peak, Pobeda Peak, Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak and Khan Tengri, shows the approaches and routes traveled, gives a climatic description of the peak areas in order to help future climbers prepare themselves for the upcoming assaults and fierce battles with high mountain nature.

FOREWORD

The highest ranges of Central Asia, combined into two systems - the Pamir-Alai and the Tien Shan, together with the Hindu Kush form western edge the highest part of the Euro-Asian mountain belt, created by alpine tectonic movements. The most characteristic feature of this mountain belt is the alternation of huge uplifts with extensive depressions.

The section of the Eurasian mountain belt, in which the highest ranges of Central Asia are located, is located between 70 ° and 102 ° east longitude. The latitudinal direction of the ridges, which prevails for the chains of the entire mountain belt, is also preserved here.

In the mountain structures of Central Asia, there are 153 peaks with absolute altitudes more than 6 thousand meters above sea level (Shataev, 1974). Among them are 4 "seven-thousanders" and 37 - above 6500 m. Pamir-Alai significantly exceeds the Tien Shan in the number of highest peaks (Table 1).

Powerful mountain uplifts with huge absolute heights are one of the main reasons for the emergence of powerful glaciation (in the mountains of Central Asia, about 18 thousand km2 are covered with glaciers). Moreover, against the background of the scattered nature of glaciation, individual clumps of ice and firn accumulations stand out sharply, coinciding with maximum heights. There are 16 mountain-glacier centers with the highest peaks, from which powerful ice rivers flow.

Climbing the highest peaks of the Earth (“seven and eight-thousanders”), even along simple routes, is always associated with great difficulties (some pay for it with their lives), so their participants must be well prepared.

Suffice it to recall that only a few decades after the conquest of the northern and southern poles of the globe, climbers began to storm the third, high-altitude pole of our planet - Chomolungma, or Everest (8848), and these desperate attempts of 26 expeditions and three singles cost thirty human lives. 32 years after the first unsuccessful assault and one hundred years after geographical discovery summits by the English military topographic service, on May 29, 1953, New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Norgay Tenzing managed to conquer the third pole of the globe.

Table (1) of peaks in the USSR rising above 6500 m

Looking back at the successful, and more unsuccessful expeditions organized to conquer the highest peaks of our country, we can draw an important conclusion that in addition to climbing experience, good equipment, sober calculation, each climber needs a firm and unshakable confidence that he will be able to withstand everything. the trials that will fall on him and on the lot of the entire assault group, and that he, together with his comrades, will return safely. Such a morale is necessary, because each climber (in the assault group) is, as it were, integral part of a single organism and the fulfillment of the planned tasks largely depends on its actions, deeds, knowledge.

The purpose of this book is to tell about the history of the discovery and origin of the names of the highest peaks of the Soviet Union - Communism Peak, Pobeda Peak, Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak and Khan-Tengri Peak, show the approaches and routes traveled, give a climatic description of the peak areas in order to help future climbers prepare yourself for the upcoming assaults and fierce battles with high mountain nature.

Five the greatest peaks Our country annually attracts the attention of hundreds of Soviet and foreign climbers. Suffice it to say that if in the first period, up to 1968 inclusive, 1279 climbers climbed here, then in the next six years another 1951. To date, this number has exceeded three thousand, which, thus, puts Soviet climbers in first place in world in terms of the number of people involved in mountaineering (Table 2).

In 1966, I expressed a wish that the Federation of Mountaineering of the USSR establish the highest mountaineering title "Snow Leopard" for the conquest of all four "seven-thousanders" of the Soviet Union. On January 1, 1975, 82 Soviet climbers completed this task and were awarded the badge "To the Conqueror highest mountains THE USSR". Of these, 13 are Moscow, 13 Krasnoyarsk and 12 Leningrad climbers (appendix - they conquered the five highest peaks of the USSR, four of them are Tashkenters (appendix 1).

Among the Soviet climbers, about ten people have 8-12 victories over the "seven thousanders" in their assets. Among them are such renowned high-altitude climbers as K. Kuzmin and V. Bozhukov.

Table 2. The number of climbers and routes climbed to the five highest peaks of the USSR as of January 1, 1975

Every year, at the foot of each of the famous peaks, 200-300 climbers set up their camps. The flow of climbers from the socialist countries is growing irresistibly; climbers from all over the world dream of reaching our regions. What attracts them? First of all, convenient approaches and availability of transport, exceptionally interesting areas with peaks, the readiness of Soviet climbers to always help their foreign colleagues in everything.

The preparation of expeditions requires the most serious attitude to the choice of route, the determination of the most difficult sections and places for setting up camps.

Preliminary selection and inspection of the path is of great importance and plays a decisive role in high-altitude ascents.

The famous Soviet climber (1935) took two years before he planned the best option route to Khan Tengri and made his outstanding ascent to the "Lord of the Sky".

Only thanks to the “pyramids of experience”1 (an apt expression of John Hunt (1954), who used it in relation to the storming of Everest) did the expedition of the Central Council of the DSO “Spartak” and the Kazakh Alpinists Club, led in 1956, manage to reach the peak of Pobeda.

The history of the struggle to reach any mountain giant is full of examples of many years of searching for the most accessible routes.

In order to explore routes for climbing the highest peaks of the USSR, starting from 1950, we began to use perspective and planned aerial photography, as well as conduct visual observations directly from an aircraft or helicopter.

Thus, reconnaissance of the upcoming route to the summit consists of:

a) perspective and planned photography with the help of aircraft;

b) visual observations both from the air and from opposing peaks and slopes;

c) viewing ordinary photographs and aerial photographs through a stereoscope.

From year to year, the number of flights, held specifically for mountaineering sports, is growing. However, when drawing up assignments for the flight of one or another sports facility, it means obtaining materials that are useful not only to climbers, but also to geographers. Thus, perspective and planned aerial photographs appeared in scientific use.

Man, embarking on the path of scientific knowledge of nature, very quickly realized the need to look, for a broader generalization, and therefore conclusions, at the area under study from a bird's eye view. The first scientific climber, Paccard, was attracted to the summit of Mont Blanc by the prospect of looking at the surrounding mountainous country from a height of five thousand meters above sea level. To sort out another tangled mountain knot, the Russian topographer Pastukhov climbed Elbrus.

With the current state of aviation, the researcher does not need to climb beyond the clouds in order to make geographical observations. It will be done for him, and with much greater effect, by a camera mounted on an airplane or helicopter.

Already the first flights made in 1960 on the MI-4 helicopter by Lev Veresov from the Kyrgyz air unit of the Civil Air Fleet to the Inylchek and Zvezdochka glaciers, to the foot of Pobeda Peak, over Merzbacher Lake, allowed us to collect as much new information as we could hardly get only at tenfold caravan route and months of work on the Inylchek glacier.

Without visual observations from an airplane or helicopter and aerial photography, there can be no modern physical-geographical and even economic-geographical research. The application of this method gives the scientist and the climber enormous advantages. I had to be convinced of this many times, while studying the largest mountain-glacier centers of Central Asia and choosing climbing routes when organizing high-altitude expeditions.

The highest peaks of our country, which will be discussed, are located in three mountainous areas Central Asia: in the North-Western Pamirs, in the central part of the Trans-Alay Range, on the northern border of the Pamirs and in the so-called Tengri-Tag node, in the eastern part of the Central Tien Shan. In this sequence, the five highest peaks of the Soviet Union will be considered - Communism Peak, Pobeda Peak, Lenin Peak, Korzhenevskaya Peak and Khan Tengri.

This work is intended for everyone who is fascinated by high-altitude ascents and the geography of highlands.

I express my deep gratitude to professor, doctor of geographical sciences, high-altitude mountaineers, masters of sports of the USSR Nin, head of the mountaineering department of the USSR Sports Committee for reviewing the manuscript and correcting the schemes of routes climbed to the five highest peaks of our country.

"The ranges of the Pamirs are connected with the powerful systems of the Tien Shan, Kuen-Lun, the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush, which creates a huge knot out of it, in which the highest elevations of Central Asia are intertwined."

N. Korzhenevsky.

NORTHWESTERN PAMIR

On an area of ​​nine hundred square kilometers, in a system of broken ridges, a whole bunch of peaks rises with huge absolute heights.

This area after the expeditions began to be called the North-Western Pamir, which can be considered as part of the high-mountainous Pamir, occupying about ten thousand square kilometers.

The main orographic unit of the North-Western Pamirs is the ridge of the Academy of Sciences, open. In its northern part, the ridge forms the highest mountain region of the Soviet Union. Here, at the junction of the ridges of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the Great, is the high-altitude pole of our country - the peak of Communism (7495 m).

Directly from the peak of Communism, the Fortambek glacier flows to the north, Bivachny to the east, and Garmo to the west. In the High Pamirs, in the system of the Academy of Sciences ridge and the adjacent ridges of Peter the Great, Darvaz, Vanch and Yazgulem, 40% of the glaciations of the Soviet Pamirs are concentrated. largest glaciers- Fedchenko (71.2 km), Grumm-Grzhimailo (36 km), Garmo (27 km), Sugran (24 km), Geographical Society (21 km), Fortambek (19.9 km), Yazgulemsky (19.5 km ), Yazgulemdara (13.5 km).

12 kilometers from the peak of Communism to the north, in the mighty spur of the ridge of the Academy of Sciences, another “seven-thousander” rises - the fourth highest peak in the USSR - the peak of Evgenia Korzhenevskaya (7105 m).

One of the features of the relief of the high-mountainous Pamirs is the presence of leveled surfaces, similar to the firn plateau of Communism Peak. They, as indicated (1945), are observed almost everywhere in the basin of the Grumm-Grzhimailo glacier. Most of the ridges that form the sides of this glacier rise above 4700 m, have rounded peaks and gentle convex slopes. Remains of gently sloping surfaces are observed at altitudes from 5 to 6 km, even among the high-mountainous alpine terrain in the western and southern parts district. According to the same author, the flat tops of the Communism and Garmo peaks are remnants of the Eastern Pamir relief.

Undoubtedly, one of the most interesting orographic features of the high-mountain relief of the Pamirs is the Pamir firn plateau noted above at the head of the Fortambek glacier on the northern slope of Communism Peak.

The first information about the plateau is given in the materials of the Tajik-Pamir expedition of 1932 (TPE, 1934). (1935), when analyzing the vertical profile of the Pamirs, points to the existence of this leveled surface, (1936) drew attention to two alpine platforms as peculiar landforms.

while climbing the peak of Communism (Stalin) in 1937, he noticed the snowy fields of a huge plateau lying to the west of the summit.

The Pamir firn plateau, according to (1954), is a high-altitude horizontal surface of a large area, preserved among sharp ridges and deep gorges. It is located at an altitude of about 6 km above sea level and is limited by steep slopes with a relative height of up to 2 km. The surface of the plateau is covered with snow and firn covers, the thickness of which is measured by many tens of meters. The plateau extends from the crest of the Academy of Sciences ridge to the west, along the main watershed of the Peter the Great ridge, on its northern side. It has the following largest dimensions: length along the axial line (from east, northeast to west, southwest) about 12 km, width (from south, southeast to north, northwest) about 3 km, area - 20 km2, with framing slopes - about 31 km2.

The leveled ancient surfaces continue on the eastern slope of Communism Peak. The sloping surface of the base of the summit ridge of Communism Peak is located in the east, approximately at a level of 6800 m, and in the west - 7100 m. And here the ancient horizontal surfaces occupy an area equal in length to 3.5 km, in width - 2 km. Thus, the summit is surrounded on three sides by leveled areas inherited from ancient relief Prapamira.

Climatic features. The windward slopes facing the winds carrying moisture are richest in precipitation. For Central Asia, these are mostly open western slopes, although the outer slopes of mountains of any exposure capture some of the moisture. The lee slopes are poor in precipitation, especially during the cold season, when water vapor is not transported to heights by local circulation. This pattern has one feature that is very important for the practice of climbing: the lee slopes of the mountains, close to the passes, are significantly moistened over a distance of tens of kilometers or more. This happens for a number of reasons. First, the lines of sediment flow follow the contours of the ridges in a smoothed form, and behind the ridges their subsidence does not occur immediately. Secondly, updrafts can spread to the upper part of the lee slope and pick up cloud particles, droplets, and especially snowflakes, and raise them somewhat. Thus, part of the precipitation is transferred to the windward slope. Finally, blizzards carry snow from windward slopes to windward slopes and into valleys.

Apparently, for a high-altitude climber, one of the main indicators of the climatic characteristics of the ascent area will be the amount of precipitation and cloudiness, which primarily affect the success and safety of the ascent.

In August and September, the frequency of clear weather is more than 50% and even reaches 70%, while the frequency of cloudy weather is significantly reduced.

Cold intrusions in the area of ​​the Fedchenko glacier are accompanied by a sharp decrease in air temperature, significant cloudiness and heavy precipitation in the form of rain near the tongue of the glacier, and in the form of snow in the middle and upper parts of its flow. Naturally, on the slopes of the surrounding peaks, and above all on the slopes of Communism Peak, precipitation occurs only in solid form.

Prolonged cold snaps are replaced for a short time (2-3 days) by slightly cloudy weather with a slight increase in air temperature. In the first half of September, the nature of the weather does not change. For example, in 1957 in late August - early September at an altitude of about 4900 m (Fedchenko glacier), where the expedition of the Leningrad State University named after the Leningrad State University worked, it was clear with a high intensity of solar radiation. However, in the area of ​​the firn, such weather conditions with a high albedo1 and high radiation from the surface of the firn called a significant decrease in air temperature, which fell to -20 ° and even lower at night. Consequently, at an altitude of 6900 m, the temperature reached -48°, which must be taken into account when organizing an ascent to Communism Peak.

The expedition mentioned above worked on the Fedchenko glacier in 1958, when climbers from the Turkestan military district and Uzbekistan climbed the peak of Communism by the classical route along the eastern ridge (this route was climbed in 1958 for the first time after 1937).

The weather conditions during the work of the expedition from July 20 to September 3, 1958 were exceptionally favorable: the sun never hid behind clouds during August and early September.

The expedition of the Leningrad State University gives the following description of the weather of this period in the area of ​​the Fedchenko glacier:

“In the first half of July 1958, there was warm, cloudy weather without precipitation with air temperatures exceeding the norm by 4-5 °. And only on July 15-16 a cold snap occurred due to the rapid western, and then the northwestern invasion. Intensive cooling process during this period is due to the formation of a high-altitude ridge over Kazakhstan, into the rear of which there was a continuous flow of Arctic air, the air temperature from July 14 to 16 (in two days) decreased at the end of the tongue of the Fedchenko glacier from +18.3 to +5 ,1° (on average per day), and in the middle part of the glacier - from +7.8 to +2.9°. When comparing the frequency of processes with long-term ones, it turned out that the number of northern invasions into the territory of Central Asia was less than the norm. More often, the territory was under the influence of the southwestern periphery of the anticyclone and thermal depression. The air temperature, despite the sharp cooling in the middle of the month, was close to normal due to high temperatures (up to 30°) in the first half of July. Precipitation has fallen much more compared to the long-term average.

In August of the same year, alternations of cold intrusions with warm, slightly cloudy weather were observed. Cold breaks were observed on 5-7, 11-16, 23-26 August and caused unstable weather patterns. At the same time, cloudiness increased, rain fell, and snow fell in the area of ​​​​Lake Karakul and on the Fedchenko glacier. In general, during the month, compared to long-term data, there were fewer cold intrusions, and partly cloudy weather prevailed. Thermal depression lasted an average of 10 days compared to 6 days over a multi-year period.

Unfortunately, the Belyaev glacier (sources of the Garmo glacier) and the Fortambek glacier do not have such detailed and long-term meteorological observations that would characterize the western (from the side of the Garmo glacier) and northern slopes of Communism Peak (from the side of the Fortambek glacier).

The most complete data on the weather of high-mountain nodes were collected on the Fedchenko glacier thanks to the work of the station of the same name, which began observations in the autumn of 1933, the Altynmazar station with the same series of observations, as well as the meteorological stations of the International Geophysical Year, which worked here in the years. (Vitkovsky glacier and Fedchenko glacier) and, in addition, to the work of the Leningrad State University expedition (gg.).

Some researchers (in particular, 1962) are inclined to believe that when frontal cloud systems approach the Pamirs, extensive precipitation increases on the windward slopes, on the ridge parts, and even on the leeward ones, but not far from the ridge. In the practice of climbing ascents, this may indicate that the western slopes of the Akademii Nauk ridge have more favorable weather than the windward (eastern) slopes facing the basin of the Fedchenko glacier.

Approaches to the peaks. The traditional routes to Communism Peak and Korzhenevskaya Peak, which developed during the exploration of the area, have survived to this day. We list them below.

Four directions lead to the highest point of the country - the peak of Communism.

Direction one- to the eastern slopes of the peak, from the Bivachny glacier. This direction was used during the first ascent in 1933 (E. Abalakov and up to a height of 7300 m - N. Gorbunov). It starts from the side of Osh city and passes through the Alai valley, the village. Darautkurgan, along the river. Altyndara, trans. Tersagar (3613), Altynmazar, r. Seldar, Fedchenko and Bivachny glaciers.

The key section of the route is fording the stormy and high-water river. Seldar flowing down from the Fedchenko glacier.

Usually the crossing is carried out in the place where the main stream is divided into a number of branches, on horseback, if possible, into the "low water", which happens after the next cold snap. But since the time of work of all expeditions for climbing falls mainly in July (the time of the greatest melting), the river is always, even after periods of cooling, is full of water. Without experienced guides and strong horses, crossing the Seldar is very risky. It was possible to lead a pack caravan up the Bivachny glacier for 15-20 km. Best the way goes along the right (orographically) runtkluft1 of the Bivachny glacier, where there are several clearings with grassy vegetation for feeding horses.

IN Lately climbing expeditions used a helicopter that delivered people and cargo to the Bivachny glacier, and again to the right rantkluft, where the pack caravan also reached. The flight time of MI-4 from Darautkurgan is 45-50 minutes.

The second direction is to the northern slopes of Communism Peak through the Fortambek glacier. Before Altynmazar, the direction is similar to the first one. From Altynmazar the path goes down the river. Muksu (the Seldar river, taking the right tributaries of the Kaindy and Saukdara rivers, gets the name Muksu).

On this path, a difficult obstacle will again be overcoming the river. Muksu and moving further along the river. Fortambek to the tongue of the glacier of the same name.

Below Altynmazar, the river becomes more abundant and it is impossible to count on fording in July-August.

At 20 kilometers from Altynmazar down the river, opposite the Mushketov (Karasel) and Ayudzhilga glaciers, there is a steel cable stretched across the river, through which it is possible to organize a crossing. It is quite applicable to cross the water on local rafts - sals, consisting of a light wooden frame, based on 6-7 bull skins inflated with air. Using this example, you can build a raft from several car chambers inflated with air.

Direction three also leads to the northern slopes of the summit through the Fortambek glacier. The state farm Lyakhsh (Jirgatal district of the Tajik SSR) can be reached by car from Dushanbe or by airplanes of the Civil Air Fleet, which make regular passenger flights along the route Dushanbe - Garm - Dzhirgatal - Lyakhsh or from the Fergana Valley along the route Osh - Darautkurgan - Lyakhsh. From Lyakhsh, the further path is possible only on foot up the right bank of the river. Muksu to the Khodzha-tau point, where a steel cable with a cradle for crossing is hung.

From Khojatau, the preserved trail goes along the left bank of the river. Muksu to the river. Fortambek. The way up the river is very difficult. Fortambek to the glacier of the same name. The fact is that the local population long ago left these difficult places and went to the valleys. The only visitors to the upper reaches of the Muksu were climbers, tourists and rare hunters, who, of course, do not restore bridges and paths, but they themselves are destroyed. The hiking trails available in the region were in a much better condition 25-30 years ago and were passable for pack animals. Now the loads for organizing high-altitude ascents have to be carried on oneself, which not only increases the duration of the expedition, but also exhausts climbers to a large extent before the final assault on the summit.

All recent expeditions to the peaks of Communism and Korzhenevskaya from the Fortambek glacier used helicopters based in Lyakhsh, Darautkurgan or Jirgatal.

In the river basin Fortambek has four verified helipads. The first of them - for climbing the Korzhenevskaya peak by the northern ridge along the classical path - is located on a wooded (archa, birch) ancient moraine above the Fortambek glacier at the mouth of the river flowing from the Korzhenevskaya glacier (3400 m), the second - at the southern foot of the Korzhenevskaya peak, between the right lateral moraine of the Moskvin glacier and the slopes of the summit (3800 m, pebbles, sand, rare stones), the third - at the confluence of the Moskvin glacier with the Walter glacier next to small lake in the grassy shores (out. 4000 m) and the fourth - opposite the Tramplinny glacier on the left side of the valley (4000 m) - the Suloeva glade.

Landing and takeoff of helicopters on the indicated sites are carried out according to the aircraft.

Direction four- from Dushanbe across the Garmo glacier to the circus 1 of the Belyaev glacier, under the southern wall of Communism Peak, to the settlement of Tavildar by regular passenger plane or by car to the village of Minadu on the river. Khingou (240-250 km from Dushanbe) and further - by helicopter to the tongue of the Garmo glacier (flight duration 45-50 minutes). It is possible to land a helicopter on the Belyaev Glacier (4600 m) or drop cargo there without a helicopter landing. The path along the Garmo glacier to the Belyaev glacier takes 2 full days. Helicopter landing is possible only in the upper part of the Belyaev glacier.

Walking route from Minado up the river. Hing-go is very difficult, again due to the poor condition of the trail and bridges, since the population here, as well as on the river. Muksu, moved.

Approaches to Korzhenevskaya Peak. The northwestern, western and southern slopes are accessible from the Fortambek glacier, the northern and northeastern slopes are accessible from the Mushketov glacier, and the eastern slopes are accessible from the Ayudzhilga glacier. Helicopter landing pads are located on the Fortambek Glacier. In addition, on the left side of the Mushketov glacier there are two more helicopter landing sites: the upper one is at the tip of the northeastern ridge (“Mekhnat”, 1968); the lower one is at the confluence of the Mushketov tributary glacier (“Donetsk”, 1968).

On the bank of the river Muksu, at the mouth of the river. There is one more helipad in Ayudzhilga, which was used in 1965 by the expedition of the CA DSO "Spartak" when climbing Korzhenevskaya Peak, and in 1968 by the expedition of the CA DSO "Mekhnat".

Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) should not be confused with Peak Korzhenevsky (6005 m) in the Zaalai Range at the headwaters of the Dzhanaydartak River, the first ascent of which was made by a group of TurkVO climbers in 1951.

THE PEAK OF COMMUNISM

From the history of the discovery of the summit. The high-altitude pole of the country - Communism Peak (7495 m) is located in the northwestern part of the Pamirs, at the junction of the ridges of the Academy of Sciences and Peter the Great. The honor of discovering the ridge of Peter the Great belongs (1880), the ridge of the Academy of Sciences - (1927).

History of exploration of the northwestern part of the Pamirs and discovery highest point The Soviet Union, now called the peak of Communism (gg. - Peak Stalin), is associated with research (1909), and (1916), (1924 and 1926), again va (1928), (1928, 1932, 1933).

A military topographer (now a retired colonel), on August 2, 1928, passing from the Tanymas valley to the middle, then unknown, part of the Fedchenko glacier, plotted the surrounding ridges, peaks and glaciers on his tablet. He had at his disposal a preliminary scheme of the ridges of this region, drawn up (1927). The topographer had the opportunity to compare his observations with the Geneva scheme.

“Comparing the results of my survey with the scheme, I quite naturally took for Garmo Peak,” writes, “a trapezoidal peak (later called Stalin Peak), located in the Academy of Sciences ridge system and dominating the rest of the peaks. This assumption did not cause any doubts among any of the participants in the 1928 expedition. Due to the lack of tools, I could not accurately determine its height ... ”(, 1952).

The final height and location of the highest peak of the USSR were established during the decoding of the phototheodolite survey in 1929. These studies also proved that peak "7495" and peak Garmo, for a long time taken to be the same peak, are different heights located at a distance of 20 km from each other.

The deciphering of the riddle of the Garmo knot was carried out only in 1932 by several detachments of the Tajik Complex Expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences, mainly consisting of climbers.

After the completion of field work in 1932 in Moscow, the results of many years of research were summed up. They showed that Peak Garmo (6595 m) and peak "7495" are two independent peaks, and the true Peak Garmo is located in the left branch of the glacier of the same name, called the Vavilov glacier, and peak "7495" lies at the head of the middle branch of the Garmo glacier - the Belyaev glacier . Peak "7495" turned out to be an independent, previously unknown peak. This explained the discrepancy in heights that surprised climbers climbing the northern shoulder of Garmo Peak in the summer of 1932.

The discovery of the summit, today called Communism Peak, completed the enormous work of Russian and Soviet researchers, which lasted more than fifty years (gg.). Therefore, as well as in other cases, the discovery of the highest peak of the country cannot be attributed to the merits of one researcher or any group. It was the result of collective labor and meant a brilliant victory for Soviet geographical science.