Seychelles location. Turtles on La Digue. Do I need insurance in the Seychelles?

Seychelles is a lost and found paradise in the heart of the Indian Ocean: 115 wonderful islands, of which only 30 are inhabited. The beaches here are like a selection: white sand, wide and secluded, the hotels also correspond to the paradise. All about the Seychelles: photos, tours, road and maps.

• Tours for May to the Seychelles
• Hot tours to the Seychelles

Wedding destination - it is in this section that the Seychelles invariably ranks in foreign guidebooks: all year round, happy newlywed moths flock to its idyllic landscapes. The Seychelles offer a very rare commodity in today's hectic world - absolute peace, solitude and a measured rhythm of life (if not the complete absence of it) - in a word, ideal conditions for starting a life together. Paradise, frankly, is not cheap, on the other hand - there is also one wedding ... at least, few people are already planning the next wedding during their honeymoon.

Another category of local tourists is people who are in love with the sea: there are many exceptionally beautiful dive sites around the archipelago, and the coasts of its 115 islands are washed by waves for every surfer's taste. In addition, lovers of sea fishing, yachting and exclusive beach holidays without any frills come here. Is it necessary to add that all of them are at least very wealthy people?

Disadvantages of direction? Well, there is one ... although it's for someone like ... look at the prices - you'll find out.

Time difference with Moscow

1 hour

• with Kaliningrad

• with Samara

• with Yekaterinburg

• with Omsk

• with Krasnoyarsk

• with Irkutsk

• with Yakutsk

• with Vladivostok

• with Severo-Kurilsk

• with Kamchatka

Climate

Tropical, very mild, without significant temperature fluctuations throughout the year. It is never too cold or too hot here. Average annual temperature air +26...+30 °C. Rather, for the sake of formality, it is still customary to distinguish between two seasons: conditionally hot (December-May) and conditionally cool (June-November), when monsoons blow. During the hot season, most of the annual precipitation falls, mainly on the mountainous islands of Mahe and Silhouette. January is considered the rainiest month. The rains are heavy but not long. See also: current weather forecast for the Seychelles for the next 10 days.

Visa and customs

Citizens of Russia arriving for a period not exceeding 30 days do not need a visa to the Seychelles. But despite the general “chocolate” and the safety of the destination, medical insurance will not hurt.

Import and export of foreign and local currencies is not limited, the allowable limit for the transport of local is 2000 SCR. 200 cigarettes or 250 g of tobacco are allowed duty-free; 2 liters of alcohol with a strength of more than 16% and 2 liters of less strong drinks; 200 ml perfume. The importation of other goods is limited to 3,000 SCR per person. When transporting musical instruments, sports equipment and portable electrical appliances, you will have to pay a special deposit (the money will be returned on the way back - unless, of course, the listed items leave the country with the traveler). Prices on the page are for October 2018.

Pets are placed in quarantine (14-180 days) and are allowed in the Seychelles only if they have an international veterinary certificate issued no earlier than a month before arrival. It is forbidden to import weapons (including pneumatic and for spearfishing), vegetables, fruits, plants, birds, tea, non-canned meat and meat products, as well as medicines and drugs. The export of shells, corals, tortoise shell products and coco de mer nuts is prohibited without special permission.

Systems tax free not in the Seychelles.

How to get to the Seychelles

Entertainment and attractions

The historical "excursion" in the Seychelles is present in minimal quantities - and, by and large, it is not needed. All the main attractions here are exclusively natural: snow-white (and in some places even pale pink!) beaches, clear water, unique tropical nature, multi-colored marble stones and a stunning underwater world. Service in hotels, bungalows and lodges is always on the level. Aborigines are nice and friendly. Sunsets are fantastic, waves (where there are no strong currents) are invariably gentle. And also a fantastic (and this is not an artistic exaggeration) underwater world.

reserves

Cousin Island, a nature reserve since 1968, is located 2 km from Praslin Island. It is home to several endangered animal species and a nesting site for seabirds and turtles. Two of whom, old George and Georgina, live here and often follow tourists in the hope of scratching their necks.

Before bird island can be reached in half an hour by plane from the island of Mahe. The island is known as home to approximately 1.5 million black terns that live here from May to September. The giant tortoise Esmeralda also lives here (they say that she is already over 150 years old). Curieuse Island, named after the ship that discovered it in 1768, is famous for its large colony of giant tortoises and dense thickets of tropical plants. There is also a national marine park here.

Arid Island is located just 15 km from Praslin. In 1973, it was bought for the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature by Christopher Cadbury, an English "chocolate" tycoon. The island serves as a major gathering place for seabirds throughout the region and is home to the world's largest colonies of pink terns, lesser fulmars and red-tailed tropicbirds.

Nautical national park St. Anna consists of 6 small islands. A tour of them begins with a trip on a glass-bottomed boat, which allows you to observe the colorful life of coral reefs. Then the path goes to Moyen Island, which is privately owned by a certain Mr. Grimshaw, who has been living here for a long time and is still trying to find pirate treasures. You can explore the island, see pirate graves and historical ruins (and try to score Mr. Grimshaw's bucks by finding the infamous treasure).

10 things to do in the Seychelles

1. Do nothing, do nothing and do nothing again on the secluded white sand beaches of the Seychelles archipelago.
2. Dive into the captivating underwater world off the coast of the Seychelles.
3. Evaluate the delights of Creole cuisine - and not necessarily bat stew, for example, fish and rice - a miracle how good!
4. Try to find pirate treasure on Moyen Island.
5. Walk around the capital of the island of Victoria and look at one of the two traffic lights in the whole country.
6. Fly in a helicopter over the turquoise expanse of the Indian Ocean.
7. Fish for tuna, secretly hoping to catch blue marlin.
8. Take a chance - and combine legal marriage under the approving whisper of the ocean.
9. Join the proud fraternity of the "dosochnikov" on the beach of Grand Anse.
10. Take a “coco de mer” walnut with you to your homeland so that there is something to remember in the long Russian winter.

Night life

Fans of vibrant nightlife may be disappointed: all local entertainment is represented by a couple of discos and casinos. There are only three casinos on the island of Mahe: at the Plantation Club Hotel, Berjaya Beau Vallon and a recently opened, but already the best casino in Victoria. With clubs - the same problem. They are far from numerous and often uninteresting. Pleasant exceptions: the Lovant Club in the center of Victoria, the Katiolo disco, which looks like Uncle Tom's hut and a rural disco of the 80s and 90s, a very small 369 Club and Barrel (or simply Barrel) ) is a cheap and fun place, mostly with a local audience. Praslin Island has a casino at the Lemuria Resort.

But on the islands throughout the year there are many festivals and sporting events, the most famous among them are the Great Regatta and the Festival of Creole Culture.

Holidays and events in Seychelles

The main public holidays in the Seychelles fall on the first month of summer. June 5 - Liberation Day in honor of the coming to power of the socialists, 29 - Independence Day: in 1976, the islands got out of British control and officially became a republic. The brightest in the summer series is National Reconciliation Day on June 18 in honor of the adoption of the Constitution with magnificent parades in the capital, music shows and flower exhibitions.

in September food festival on Praslin, among other treats, you can taste coco de mer cocktails, ostrich stew and other exotics.

The New Year is celebrated with a tropical flavor: palm trees are decorated instead of Christmas trees, flowers are hung instead of electric garlands, but dances, fireworks and feasts are international traditions. They also love festivals in the Seychelles: in the spring they hold the March Carnival, which attracts thousands of tourists, and the French Week with concerts, exhibitions and craft fairs. In May, a sailing regatta takes place, in June - Mind Body Spirit, which promotes a healthy lifestyle. The festival of Creole culture is a chance to get acquainted with the ancient customs of the islanders, the fishing festival on La Digue is an occasion to compete with the locals in the art of fishing.

Every international tourist knows about the Seychelles, because everyone dreams of getting here. This is due to the peculiarity of these places - pristine beauty, beautiful nature and comfortable solitude.

It’s enough just to figure out where the Seychelles are located on the map, you just have to imagine our globe a little.

This paradise is located at a distance of about 1.5 thousand kilometers from the coast of East Africa in the Indian Ocean near the equator, retreating south of it only a few degrees.

The district has geographic features that almost everyone knows about:

• Mauritius;
• Maldives;
• Reunion;

The country itself is called the Republic of Seychelles, which includes more than 100 of these same islands, while a small number of them are inhabited - 33. The uniqueness of this earthly corner is just beginning. So, the only city is Victoria - the smallest capital in the world, located on Mahe, the largest of the Seychelles. Built here international Airport.

The following islands are also known and impressive in size:

• La Digue;
• Silhouette;
• Praslin.

When you study where the Seychelles are located on the map, you can see that all landmasses can have 2 natures:

• granite;
• coral.

Those islands where people live belong mainly to the first type. In such areas there are even forests with palm trees and ferns. But the islands of the second type make up atolls, their height is small and the vegetation is sparse, since moisture is poorly retained in limestone.

And yet, most of the total 455 square kilometers is characterized by a rich and marvelous flora, harmoniously combined with amazing landscapes. The islands are also known for a huge number of birds that lived and changed here regardless of external ecosystems. A special representative of birds is the frigate, which has a three-meter wingspan, it can also remain in a state of flight for a whole week.

In addition, this is a place where migratory birds flock from many corners of the earth, so their numbers here are record-breaking.

Another holiday in the Seychelles will be remembered for huge turtles, which in some cases can weigh more than 200 kilograms.

And I knew all European world for the first time about these wonderful lands in the 16th century, when the Portuguese with might and main plowed the oceans around Africa in search of the cherished path to India. Although the human foot has stepped here before, what became known thanks to the graves and rock paintings belonging to Arab sailors who left them somewhere in the 10th century.

Officially, these islands began to be mapped by a team sailing here in 1502. The main island of Mahe was then called Ilya Gana, and the Amirant Islands were called the Admiral Islands.

Now it is no longer a problem to find out where the Seychelles are located on the maps, it is much more important to decide why it is worth going on vacation there. And it's really worth it!

Here come those who dream of paradise vacation, given place- ideal for this in all respects:

In the Seychelles, you can peacefully admire the water surface, resting from worldly turmoil, or you can immerse yourself in the local flavor, since the local residents are friendly and hospitable. In addition, they especially appreciate the nature they have, therefore, with pleasure and awe, they show natural sights and all the inhabitants.

Many fell in love with these islands for their excellent conditions for aquatic species sports:

• diving;
• surfing;
• fishing;
• sailing trips.

Such tourists choose spring and autumn for a trip, because then dry weather sets in with pleasant temperatures (up to 25 degrees Celsius), which is provided by the Southeast Southeast Monsoon.

Divers choose to rest in the Seychelles because the local water inhabitants are full of variety, while their visibility is excellent, because the sea surface is transparent, like a tear. All these outlandish inhabitants look especially impressive against the backdrop of white sand and various corals.

Surfers rejoice at waves reaching two meters, and fishermen enjoy rich and unusual catches. So finding something to your liking here is simple and easy. Even idleness here is perceived as relaxation and filling with energy.

You should also pay attention to the national parks that occupy most of the archipelago:

• St. Anna National Park - known for all possible types of corals, occupies 6 islets;
• Cousin Island - home to endangered seabirds and turtles;
• Bird Island - famous for its inhabitants, one and a half million black terns live here, as well as the oldest huge tortoise Esmeralda;
• Curieuse Island - here, in addition to the National marine park, giant turtles live;
• Arid Island - only here on the planet the lemon tree blooms.

Whatever holiday you would prefer in the Seychelles, the holiday will definitely be imprinted in your memory and soul for a long time, as this place in the east of Africa is truly a paradise.

It is unlikely that anyone can remain indifferent to the exotic climate, wonderful sea views, unique sights and luxury hotels of the highest class. That is why every year more and more people make their choice in favor of holidays on the islands. Currently, there are a number of beach resorts that can satisfy the needs of the most demanding and sophisticated vacationers. Today we will talk about one of the most beautiful islands in the world - the Seychelles.

The Seychelles are located in the Indian Ocean south of the equator and are located east of African coast. The famous archipelago has 115 islands, of which only a third is inhabited. The largest include La Digue, Praslin and Silhouette. The largest, and usually the most famous, is the island of Mahe, where Victoria is located - the capital of the republic, as well as an international airport. In general, the islands of the Seychelles are difficult to name major state(their total area is only 455 sq. km), but nevertheless, this does not prevent them from competing in world fame and compete with such leading resorts as in the Maldives, Bali, the Philippines and Hawaii.

Seychelles tours

Tours to the Seychelles this moment are among the most exclusive offers in the tourism industry. Almost any advanced travel agency can offer you tickets to the Seychelles, but it is still better to contact the largest companies where holidays in the Seychelles are their specialty. This is not only an opportunity to save money, but above all a guaranteed quality of service.

The tropical climate contributes to a comfortable holiday at any time of the year, but it is worth saying that in Lately It is New Year's tours that are becoming extremely popular among tourists around the world. The most popular flights to the Seychelles are flights with a stopover in Dubai or Paris.

Such flights will take 13.5 and 15 hours, respectively. When buying a tour, it is necessary to take into account in advance all the most characteristic features of the selected island, since each of them can suggest something special for you. So, Praslin is impressive in that it is the only place in the world where one of the rarest natural phenomena grows - the coco de mer sea coconut, Mahe is known for its vibrant nightlife and a developed tourist system, and Denis is famous for its landscapes and landscapes against the backdrop of calm flowing life.

Holidays in the Seychelles

Seychelles weather which remains favorable throughout the year offer a huge range of services in the field of recreation.

Comfortable beaches with clean sand, excursions in nature reserves, various festivals, diving, surfing, deep sea fishing, pleasure boats and exotic spa treatments - everyone will find something to their liking.

Of course, a holiday in the Seychelles with an even mild climate will be an unforgettable event in the life of anyone who visits this tropical corner.

Seychelles reviews

If we take into account the reviews of people who have already been lucky enough to visit the Seychelles, it is worth noting that spending the entire vacation only on the beach, you run the risk of not fully understanding the uniqueness of these islands. Excursions in the marine national park, a visit to the Bird Island and the unique nature, which the government of the republic treats very carefully - that's what really impressed the tourists.

Many were pleased with such a detail as the absence of a time difference with Moscow, which makes it easier for people who are sensitive to flights to go through the adaptation stage, and for the rest it does not cause confusion.

Friendly local people are always ready to help you solve a problem or explain how you can get to a certain place. Of course, tourists who prefer to travel on their own, without using the services of agencies, will appreciate such friendliness.

Hotels in the Seychelles

It is important to note that Seychelles hotels do not have a clear official classification and, thus, the number of stars is rather arbitrary. Nevertheless, hotels of a high service level meet all European standards. These, for example, are: "Constance Ephelia Resort", "Raffles Praslin Seychelles", "Constance Lemuria Resort", "North Island" and a number of other leading hotels. Their wide base allows you to choose the most preferred place depending on the budget, age and lifestyle of the client. Hotels on major islands and those that are smaller can have significant differences. As a rule, in the first case, in addition to comfortable rooms, tourists are provided with more opportunities for entertainment. Therefore, it is better to find out in detail about the conditions in hotels in advance and not leave this matter before arriving on the island of Mahe.

Seychelles photo

Wedding in the Seychelles

Picturesque landscapes, fresh breeze, beautiful sandy beach, beachfront bungalows and romantic sunsets have played an important role in the fact that not only honeymoons, but also wedding ceremonies on the island have become especially popular.

Newlyweds can spend an unforgettable time using the professional services of the organizers. A whole system of organizations involved in holding such celebrations has been formed in the republic.

The Seychelles can offer anything from a modest private ceremony to a celebration that is striking in its scale and abundance, the choice is only for the newlyweds and their financial capabilities.

Seychelles prices

And since we are talking about financial opportunities, it is worth noting that not everyone can afford a trip to the Seychelles. So, on average, a ten-day vacation with hotel accommodation and breakfast will cost about $ 1300-1500 per person, not including the cost of the flight.

Prices and flight duration often scare off potential tourists. But the vast majority of those who decided to take tours to the Seychelles are unanimous in their opinion: this is exactly the place where you need to visit at least once in your life, without sparing any money, since the emotions received pay off any financial costs.

Today, Russian tourists are more picky, so they try to choose the most exotic and attractive places for recreation. One such place is the Seychelles, which are becoming increasingly popular. And if, until recently, many Russians did not even know where the Seychelles are located, now most Russian tourists can easily show them on the world map.

Where are they located?

Many peoples on earth have legends about the once-existing paradise on earth. Some of them can be considered completely fictional, but some are still worth paying attention to. Especially if this applies to some regions located closer to the equator, where people have not yet been in charge. Such a place is the Seychelles, which are often called so - "Paradise on Earth".

When the word "Seychelles" is used, it should be borne in mind that this is actually not one island, but an entire archipelago, which is located in the vast ocean expanses.

It will be quite difficult to describe their location in words, because the Indian Ocean is quite large. It is best to pick up a visual aid and see where the Seychelles are located on the world map - it will be the best assistant in resolving this issue.

Generally speaking, we can immediately say that these islands located in the Indian Ocean near the equator. And to be more precise, this is the western part of this ocean, approximately 1600 km from the eastern part of the African mainland, from Kenya. The next most significant landmark is big Island Madagascar, located a little further south. In relative proximity to the Seychelles are such quite significant objects as the islands of Mauritius and Reyunuk, which are located further south. Further to the southwest are the Comoros, and to the northeast -.

What are the Seychelles?

Seychelles is a republic, which includes 115 islands with different areas. For those tourists who wish to become modern Robinsons, there is an opportunity to fulfill your dream, because among all the Seychelles, only 33 of them are inhabited and they have a granite structure. They have many mountains and hills. All the rest have long been known, but no one lives on them, so you can become one with nature there, settling for the entire period of your vacation, or at least for a few days. They are small coral atolls; some of them are completely deserted, and some are covered with tropical vegetation.

The area of ​​all these islands is 455 km². There are both small coral islands and quite large ones. The largest island of this archipelago is Mahe. Its area is 142 km² and it hosts the capital called Victoria. Thanks to their large sizes There is also an international airport on the island. Other large islands include:

• Silhouette,
• Praslin,
• Aldabra
• La Digue.

Some researchers believe that in fact the largest island is not Mahe, but Aldabra. The population of the Seychelles is not too large, only about 90 thousand people.

What attracts tourists to the Seychelles so much?

Many people who find out where the Seychelles are located want to visit here. And this is just not surprising, since visiting a resort where the sun shines almost all year round and you can swim in the ocean is the dream of any tourist. Here is an exotic nature that cannot be found in any region on the planet. Travelers from all over the world come here; and not only from Europe or America, but also from Asia.

Due to the beautiful natural landscape with quite exotic flora and fauna, the Seychelles occupy a leading position among all other islands in the world.

The most remarkable plants that are quite common in the archipelago are the Seychelles palm and sea coconut - its fruits can weigh up to 20 kg. One of the best is Silhouette Island, so many tourists prefer to choose it for their holidays. This choice is influenced by the fact that here the natural landscape is practically not affected by the hands of man, and we can assume that people here live completely far from the benefits of civilization.

These islands are especially attractive for divers, because here you can find some of the most beautiful underwater lagoons. Here the water is so clear that even at a distance of several tens of meters from the coastal strip, you can clearly see the seabed. The fish here are not at all afraid of a person who has plunged into the water, so during such dives you can admire hundreds of different species of fish, corals, and bizarre seaweed. Here is a very wonderful cuisine that can amaze any gourmet.

How can you get to the Seychelles?

Those Russian tourists who find out where the Seychelles are located immediately try to figure out which way to get there. There is no direct flight to the Seychelles from Moscow or from any other Russian city. In most cases, tourists fly first to:

• Zurich

and from there they take a ticket for one of the flights of national airlines. Only in this way you can get to the island of Mahe, where the main airport of the country is located.

If you need to get to any other large island of this archipelago, then you need to book a ticket for a local airline. But you can also get to the islands by ferry - here you need to buy a ticket only upon arrival in Mahe. There is another pretty interesting option get to the resort located on one of the islands - by helicopter.

In order not to waste as much of your time as possible searching for the necessary air carrier, you should buy tickets in advance. And to the very destination, as it will cost less. Moreover, it is best to draw up the entire route, where you should indicate not only significant destinations, but also the time of arrival and departure, as well as all dates. Only in this way it will be possible not to waste time on the road.

When is the best time to visit the Seychelles

You can relax here all year round, because due to the proximity of the equator and the environment on all sides with water, the climate on all the islands is very mild and warm. Although tropical countries are distinguished by suffocating heat and high humidity, there are no such negative factors in the Seychelles. The climate here can be called not just tropical, but monsoonal, so the bright sun shines here almost all year round.

This resort has 2 distinct seasons. The first one is from May to September. At this time, coolness is felt and humidity subsides. At this time, it rains quite rarely and the average temperature is +25 degrees Celsius. The second season - from November onwards is distinguished by the period of monsoons that come from the northeast. At this time it rains, but the air temperature rises to +30 degrees. If you choose the most convenient time for rest, then it will be the months of May and October. During these two months, it rains very rarely, the ocean becomes calm and a weak warm wind blows.

The Seychelles meet you at the airport with an original visa (it is issued upon arrival). This is a seal depicting the coco de mer nut, the fruit of the Seychellois palm tree, which grows only here, like many other plant and animal species. Coco de mer is simply inseparable from the Seychelles: it is a symbol of the state, it is depicted on the coat of arms, on a visa, on most souvenirs and postcards.

Duty fees No. The border crossing procedure is simple. If you have a printout with return tickets and hotel reservations, there will be no questions upon entry. If you are coming by invitation or visiting, you may have to talk a little more with customs officers. Although no one is going to seriously interrogate you. In general, the Seychelles do not like to be nervous and overstrain. You can often hear the phrase It's OK, which very well reflects the worldview of the islanders. This is the universal answer to all questions.

It is forbidden to import raw meat, any seeds and plants, narcotic drugs into the country.

The visa is valid for a maximum of 30 days. But you can stay for a longer period. The day before departure, I passed return ticket, only then realizing that the visa had ended and that from that moment on I remained on the islands illegally. In this case, on the next working day, you need to go to the migration center, which is located in the city of Victoria on the island of Mahe. There is only one migration center in the Seychelles, as well as the city. The building is reminiscent of Soviet buildings of the 70s, inside the same atmosphere.

I decided on the number of days that I still want to spend on the islands, took cash with me at the rate of 20–30 USD for 1 day and an old letter of invitation, which I showed upon arrival. This turned out to be quite enough.

I calculated the money "by eye". Nobody told me the exact amount of dollars that a person needs to have for a day in order to extend his visa. Instead of cash, you can present a statement with the amount of the balance on your bank card. There are ATMs in Victoria in working order (mainly Citibank), although they did not give out the balance on the card when I was there.

At the center, I was given a small questionnaire to fill out with formal questions. Then I had to sit in line for 30 minutes. The presence of grandmothers in line created the feeling that I was in Russia. Although Seychelles grandmothers are more friendly and carefree.

Then I was called by an employee of the migration service, whose actions remained a mystery to me. He filled out my details for a long time and diligently. Then, apparently, he made a mistake, took a new sheet and began to fill it out again. And ... obviously, again I was mistaken. After that, he crossed everything out with a straight face and threw it away.

I waited with interest for the next attempt, but no: it didn’t work out, it didn’t work out that way. He marked with a pen in my passport near the visa that I was leaving on such and such a date, and with a smile he let me go. It's OK.

How to get there

From Russia to the Seychelles can only be reached by plane. From other countries it is also possible by water transport.

Tourist regions

There are three in the Seychelles inhabited islands: Mahe, and .

Mahe is the main one, the majority of the population lives here and the capital is located. Praslin has a lot of centers for yachting and diving. La Digue has the most popular beaches. I will tell you more about the large islands below. The remaining 112 islands are divided into:

• private,
• island hotels,
• uninhabited.

Among the owners of private islands there are also our compatriots. For example, many sources attribute the Severny Island near Mahe to Mikhail Prokhorov. There are a lot of islands entirely devoted to one or two hotels. Basically they are separate villas. These include Denise, Silhouette, Bird, Alphonse, etc. Basically, service personnel and guests live here.

But the most interesting are the remote uninhabited islands-reserves, which can only be reached by an individual plane or a yacht. For example, the world's largest atoll-reserve "Aldambra". There is only a research center that serves two people at most. You can’t stay overnight in the reserves, so a yacht for such trips is ideal. You can spend the night on board, and in the morning go to the next island.

Most often, I look for hotels on Booking -, you can also get acquainted with the choice of hotels in the Seychelles in the travelask section. Those who like to immerse themselves in the local flavor can look at the offers of apartments from private owners -.

Top cities

As I said, there is only one city in the Seychelles, it is also the capital of Victoria.

Islands

Mahe

This is the main and largest island. My acquaintance with Mae was quite comical for me. Friends met at the airport. On the way home we had to pass through Victoria. I was looking forward to when we finally enter the city. But the city did not appear. Outside the window flashed only suburban buildings and palm trees. When I asked “well, where is Victoria?” Everyone laughed. Suburban buildings in the trees were the city.

Mahe has a very well developed transport network (more on this below). Therefore, you can get to any sights without problems.

On the eastern part of the island there are magnificent long beaches. To my surprise, they were quite empty.

Dogs bathe in the sea instead of people. For example, here are these three dogs that found a pipeline that goes into the water, and had fun walking along it one after another from the shore, then back to the shore.

The bright colors of the ocean here echo the bright colors of the houses and clothes of the inhabitants.

Interestingly, each district here has its own school uniform color. And the shape is very stylish. Sometime in the afternoon, the children begin to return home, so if you are on the bus at this time, every now and then the colorful students enter it. For example, in this place the shape is light pink.

And next to Victoria is blue.

As for the southern part of the island, when the weather is right, surfers appear here. Although surfing in the Seychelles is not very developed. This is a dangerous activity due to the sharp coral reefs that surround all the islands.

You can go to the waterfall. It is located to the west in the Port Glaud area.

Not far from the bus stop there is a Catholic church. It is the main landmark, behind which begins a small hiking trail deep into Morne Park, leading to the waterfall. You can swim, the water is cool and clean.

The only danger here is slippery stones and small seychelles falling from above like plums. They climb high into the trees and jump into the lake doing somersaults.

For them, this is an analogue of our bungee from childhood somewhere in the village with their grandmother. True, much more dangerous. And another chance to get a dollar tip for your tricks from an enthusiastic tourist.

The Port Glaud place itself is also worthy of attention. There is a nice beach here and a small one is located very close. uninhabited island. At low tide, tourists wander back and forth to it. Who is in a bathing suit, who is right in his clothes, taking the same photos with a littered horizon, as the sun reflects off white sand and dazzle your eyes even through sunglasses.

North along the coast behind Port Launay, the motorway ends.

But, if you like adventure, you can go further on foot and stumble upon an abandoned old school. And then go out to a closed bay, where the water surface is more like a lake than an ocean.

Between Victoria and the west coast are mountains and rainforest. On the very high point there is something like observation deck from where you have an amazing view.

It’s definitely worth coming here not even because of the view, but to feel like a forest gnome next to the giant roots of old trees that grow on the way to the site.

On the way up, you can collect clean water from the "mini-waterfalls".

The Seychelles believe that it is better to live in the mountains, so here the prices for houses are much higher than those on the coast. This is due to practicality: the closer the sea, the faster the building is destroyed by salt and wind. The ocean views are beautiful.

You can also visit a tea factory in the area.

Let's go back north. In any small seaside town there is a street "along which everyone walks back and forth in the evening." In the Seychelles, this is the promenade of Beau Vallon beach.

There are many hotels, hostels and restaurants here. This is the most popular beach among local residents and tourists. In the morning, here you can watch how the fishermen lay out their nets.

And in the afternoon flocks of bathing children, black as coals.

Victoria itself is several streets with a cinema, a bank, a vegetable market, a bus station and a Pirate Hands cafe.

The clock tower, or "Big Ben", is considered the center of the city.

School trips are even taken to him (I note that in the photo the uniform is again of a different color).

Praslin Island

On Praslin is the Vallee de Mai National Park with thickets of the famous Coco de Mer palm tree. This is a must-see for most tourists. The fruits grow high, so it’s not good to see or touch them. Although there is a specially plucked fruit on a separate table - for photographs.

It was much more interesting for me to visit the flying foxes. I noticed these animals on the very first day: I was admiring the evening sky, when “Batman” suddenly flew over my head. It turned out that this is a flying fox, and there are a huge number of them. They are active in the twilight, call unpleasantly and often fight.

It has always been a mystery to me why fruits are everywhere on the road, even if there are no fruit trees anywhere near. Then I found the reason: flying foxes eat sitting on trees. At the same time, they manage to fight and divide the territory at the same time. Therefore, if you are standing under a palm tree and suddenly a mango falls from above, do not be surprised. The clumsy fox just dropped his dinner on you.

In the center of the island, one of the inhabitants keeps a "hotel" for them.

He first set up cages to make it look like a zoo. But he failed to catch them. The foxes themselves found and took a fancy to the cage. Now every day they come here to spend the night. Of course, it is safe here, and even fed. And tourists have the opportunity to take a closer look at them. It turned out that these animals are more like winged toy terriers.

Their front paws are very specific, it is not surprising that they often drop food.

And no one closes the cage, you can visit the foxes.

La Digue

Impressions from this island are like from the good old fairy tale by Paulo Coelho. “If you want something, the whole Universe will contribute to it” - it seems that it works here.

Even Mahe seems noisy and densely populated compared to tiny La Digue. The area of ​​this island is only 10 square kilometers. However, it has its own school, church and a small branch of the bank. And, of course, hostels, hotels and hotels of all kinds. People move around the island on bicycles, which I will discuss in more detail below in the Transport chapter.

In the southwestern part is the Union Estate Park (L'Union Estate).

Entrance costs 7.5 USD (100 SCR, Seychelles rupees) for the whole day.

Here you can look at the house where the famous "Farewell Emmanuel" was filmed, meet the traditional bull, which used to be the only mode of transport on the island.

Or find a small shipyard (which, by the way, works).

And also see vegetable gardens and an old ruined ship with pirate symbols.

The ship, of course, is relatively modern, and the picture was applied for entourage. Although in the same park there is a real old pirate cemetery and, according to the stories of the descendants of the first settlers, there was once a pirate base here.

Also, L’Union Estate has access to the coast to the beaches of amazing beauty. In general, two things must be done on La Digue without fail: to see the turtles and walk along all the beaches, including hard-to-reach ones.

Moyen Island

This is a protected island beautiful story. In 1962, the Englishman Brandon Grimshaw bought it for 8,000 GBR (pounds sterling). At that time, the island was in a deplorable state, but gradually the new owner turned this place into a beautiful nature reserve. He brought plants, trees, birds and giant tortoises here and lived on the island alone with his assistant until his death in 2012.

Something like a story about Robinson Crusoe and Friday. Although, unlike Robinson, Brandon was extremely sociable and gladly met tourists. But, most importantly, he refused the 50,000,000 USD offered to him by a private investor in order to buy the island and build a hotel here.

A Seychellois friend told me that he met Brandon in 2007 and was amazed that an 80-year-old man was running up and down the island like a boy.

See what package tours are offered to the Seychelles and you can find out about prices at this one.

Top attractions

Turtles on La Digue

It was on La Digue that the turtles left me in a state of delight, both land and sea.

For land turtles in the center of the Union Estate Park, a separate area is fenced.

Animals can be fed, tables with piled branches are specially placed nearby. The fence is low, you can easily get over it. It's forbidden, but if you just take harmless pictures, no one will say anything.

Although, when you see a century-old turtle with a shell of more than a meter, the obsession with climbing it does not go out of your head.

The main thing is to control yourself and remember that this is strictly prohibited. I was struck by the fact that they are not at all afraid of people. I picked up more branches and climbed into the aviary.

After a while, the turtles just surrounded me. The two even quarreled. When all the food was eaten, I stroked one “behind the ear” as a joke. It turned out that they really like it, the turtles squint pretty and stretch their necks like cats.

I wouldn't be surprised if they could rumble. As a result, the cluster of turtles around me remained the same, only already waiting not for food, but for attention.

Another funny thing: turtles don't like to get around anyone. If you are photographing her walking towards you, be careful because the turtle will most likely not swerve. Tested by experience.

Sea turtles made me even more delighted. They are, of course, smaller than land ones, about 40–50 cm long, but more spectacular. The easiest way to get to know them is to take a sea snorkeling tour from La Digue.

Guides have their own places where lured turtles are not afraid of people. For half a day, we stopped at four locations, in each of which we were sure to find a turtle.

The underwater camera takes amazing pictures.

There was a funny incident when our guide took one of the turtles as small child and began to lull under the universal tenderness. When he let go and swam further, the turtle swam after him and began to ask to be returned to his arms.

The hard-to-reach beaches of La Digue

Another value of La Digue is the coast.

It is believed that the most ideal and often photographed beaches in the Seychelles are located on La Digue. There are about twenty of them on the island, and in order to understand which beach is the most beautiful for you, it is better to go around them all.

The map shows that roads on La Digue are far from being everywhere. To the beaches, to which there is no entrance, in fact, there is no approach. Along the entire Southwest and East coast there is a conditional "tourist trail". Although, as a trail ... it's just tropical thickets and huge boulders, on which white arrows are drawn every 10 meters, where to go next. The path is dangerous, sometimes there is also this: two boulders, between which the distance is more than two meters and a deep crevice at the bottom ... and an arrow “you go to the next boulder”. It's OK. Even a person with good physical fitness will find it difficult. Therefore, it is better to go with a guide who knows all the options for detours.

Conductors are different. There are boring "whites" with a pure English accent on pre-booked excursions. And there are locals. You can also find a local guide yourself.

We found ours on the beach at L'Union Estate on the advice of friends.

At first he scared me. When asked if he would give us a tour, the guide, who looked like a rastaman, thought, muttered something like “the moon is normal tomorrow” and said to come the next day early in the morning. After looking at our beach “outfit”, he added that this would not work: “We need comfortable shorts, closed sports shoes. We will walk waist-deep in water, it is better to take a backpack with a zipper for personal items, so that it is convenient to carry it on your head.” This is something I didn't expect at all.

Nevertheless, we set out the next morning. The conductor's name was Ronald. It turned out that he was not even a rastaman at all, but ... a herbalist. Bush-doctor, as he called himself. He told us a lot about animals and plants, which one is used.

We even found baobabs. At first, the path really went along a tourist path. Ronald helped us through all the difficult places. In some, where the crevices between the stones were too wide to jump over, Ronald somehow went down, "fixed" in the crevices and put his hands up ... And we passed through them. Even men. The herbalist himself moved through the tropics quickly and silently, like a panther.

Sometimes he joked with us. For example, let's go down the path. Ronald last. The path is simple, but there is a rock on the left, and a cliff on the right, so it is unrealistic to get around the person walking in front of you. After some time, the path leads us to a viewing stone. Ronald is sitting on a stone (apparently for a long time) and pensively admiring the view of the ocean. How and where he managed to overtake us is unclear. It was like a trick.

As promised, part of the way we walked on the water: we went around the rocks that go into the ocean, which are very difficult to climb on land. All the warnings about clothes and a backpack with a zipper turned out to be correct. No need to meddle with a beach bag and flip-flops on this hike.

We made a couple of stops to swim. Views of stunning beauty. Near the end, when everyone was tired, Ronald took us to the stream to have a bite to eat. It is still hard to believe that on a small lost island in the ocean, the purest mountain springs beat. But it is so. The herbalist brought huge wide palm leaves, deftly made a tray out of them and laid out the standard set of Seychelles fruits: mango, starfruit, golden apple (golden apple), passion fruit (as they call passion fruit). He handed out knives and taught how to clean and eat them properly. At such moments you feel like a real Mowgli.

In two or three hours we went to the more or less inhabited Grand Anse beach, to which a normal road was laid. It was end point our journey.

The herbalist remembered us and treated us like his own. A couple of days later, we accidentally met him on the beach. He got us coconuts from a palm tree, and we sat very sincerely for several hours, philosophizing about life and sipping coconut milk.

Ronald told us the story of his family, how his ancestors came here from Madagascar. Shared my plans. It turns out that he bought a piece of land in the forest on La Digue, he dreams of organizing a camp there to go on multi-day hikes and meet amazing sunsets with a guitar by the fire.

It's good that our bards haven't mastered this island yet.

Sunsets are really impressive, as the color of the sky changes very quickly in a short time, it shimmers like a mother-of-pearl shell.

In general, one of the main points that I noticed in the Seychelles is how willingly people here share their dreams and how closely they are connected with nature. What seems magical to us is life for them.

For example, already at the nth hour of sitting on the beach, the phrase “I wonder what time it is now?” Ronald calmly answered us: "Half-five." I took out my phone, and indeed, half past four. He didn't look at the clock. Moreover, I noticed that he did not have a watch at all and asked: “How did you guess?” Ronald did not even understand the question: “I mean, how? By the sun, of course.

Market in Victoria

It is worth going to the market to admire the bright colors and colorful sellers.

The most popular items are small bananas, coconuts and mangoes.

Some sellers even have something in common with their products in terms of colors. Including fishmongers.

I saw some vegetables and fruits for the first time. For example, the bread fruit or the delicious golden apple fruit, which looks like a dirty, unpeeled potato.

The market has a second floor, where a mysterious staircase of all colors of the rainbow leads. There is a small cafe, from which, to tell the truth, no one is delighted.

It is in the market that you can meet the indigenous Seychelles, the descendants of pirates and English colonizers. You can see them right away. This fisherman, judging by my observations, enjoys special authority.

The fish sold is the most diverse, depending on how successful the catch was: from colorful rainbow fish to stingrays and sharks. Usually for a tourist a bunch of 5 medium fish costs 7.5 USD (100 SCR). I suspect that for locals the price is lower.

Not frightened little herons walk around the stalls in search of prey. Besides tourists, no one pays much attention to them.

For 2.5 USD (35 SCR) your fish will be cleaned immediately. True, sometimes you need to wait in line, since there is only one cleaner for the entire market.

Cinema in Victoria

Cinema is one of the few cultural entertainments in the Seychelles. The cinema building is located on Albert Street. It is old, built in the 70s, with a Soviet atmosphere. Although the picture and sound are good.

The cash desk works as it wants, that is, not in accordance with the schedule. The choice of films here is small. But the premieres come out simultaneously with Moscow, sometimes even ahead of it. This surprised me. Tickets cost 2–3 USD. Movies go on English language.

I was interested in going in the first place to see the people. For evening sessions on weekends, the Seychelles often dress up and gather at the entrance, as before a performance.

The schedule or information that the film is in 3D format can be viewed on A4 sheets glued directly to the posters. Sometimes lizards crawl out here.

During the day it is quite empty. And there is also a cool air conditioner, which is also important. If you are suddenly tired of the heat and are standing in the middle of Victoria, you can go to the cinema, take a nap and watch some action movie out of the corner of your eye.

Concert Hall in Victoria

Victoria has its own concert hall. Sometimes world-famous stars go there. I managed to go there and catch the president congratulating and giving words of parting words to the athletes before leaving for the ninth Games of the island of the Indian Ocean. This is an analogue Olympic Games for small island states, are also held every 4 years.

The event usually showcases the sports that will be competed in and the national uniform.

On general photo: President James Alex Michel (2nd row, 7th from left) with athletes representing each team.

Most of the athletes are not professionals, but simply the strongest representatives in a particular sport on the island. But still, amateurs.

Active training usually starts a few months before games. But not everyone has enough space. For example, I found a football field that was combined with a pasture.

Weather

According to statistics, the weather in the Seychelles is the same both in summer and in winter - + 26–28 ° C. best time locals consider the period from March to June.

The first thing I thought about when I saw the Seychelles on the map is that if there is a tsunami, the wave will pass through all these 115 islands and will not even slow down. But I was quickly reassured by the locals, who claim that there will never be a tsunami in the Seychelles, because seismically active zones are far from here. Large storms also bypass the islands, as a calm current flows in this area, it protects a small defenseless country. I will believe them.

Money

National currency Seychelles - Seychelles Rupees (SCR). There are about 13–13.5 SCR in 1 USD. Interesting banknotes: with sea turtles, fish and, oddly enough, owls. The rupee is divided into 100 cents: coins of 5, 10 and 25 cents respectively - with coconuts and shells.

You can exchange currency at the hotel, or at one of two exchange offices in the center of Victoria if you have a passport. Look for currency exchange signs on Elbert street and Independence avenue. With hands the exchange is prohibited, so it's better not to try.

Banknotes are made of tear-resistant material, so you can crumple them as you like. Seychelles usually do this, some wear money in the form of lumps. It is very comfortable. People who are clearly not fans of accuracy will find psychological support here. The main thing is not to take this habit home.

I first encountered this in the market. To give me 10 SCR as change, the saleswoman took out a crumpled transparent bag in which vegetables are weighed. It was filled with candy wrappers, just as wrinkled. Rummaging around in it, she pulled out a pinkish lump and handed it to me. As if nothing had happened, without even trying to straighten it.

With this "lump" I decided to pay off in a nearby vegetable shop and see the reaction. But there was no reaction, the second saleswoman took it and put it in her package, the same wrinkled as that of the first saleswoman.

When paying for excursions, some shops and restaurants accept currency. If the question arises whether to take dollars or euros, then rather dollars. For some reason, the Seychelles treat them with great confidence, and someone even sincerely believes that the dollar is equal to the euro.

For example, when paying for the tour, they told me the price was 90 euros. I asked to convert it into dollars. They looked at me with bewilderment, as if I did not know the most basic things, and they said that 90 euros is 90 dollars. I didn't argue. There were times when the course was still recalculated for me even on a calculator. But the dollar turned out to be not only equal, but also more expensive than the euro, and significantly.

Bank cards only accepted in hotels or good restaurants. It's best to always carry cash with you.

Moving around the country

Mahe Island

It's hard to believe, but on Mahe, whose area is only 155 square kilometers, the bus network has 82 routes (as of 2015).

The bus station is located near the center of Victoria. The waiting areas are very comfortable - snake-shaped benches. So you don't stand in line and there is never a hustle. The fences also serve as a horizontal bar for local children.

You can ask the employees for a printout with the schedule (their office is located in the center of the bus station), at the same time consult on directions. You can also view information. Oddly enough, the schedule is often respected, this is not at all in the spirit of the Seychelles.

Buses depart from here to all corners of the island. There is a scene in the Harry Potter movie where a crazy double-decker bus drives around London. It's about the same here, only the buses are not red, but blue, and instead of safe streets, there are serpentines without barriers.

There are places in the south where two oncoming buses cannot pass because of the narrow road. Then both stop and one of them backs off until there is a wider space. After that, they slowly, literally a dozen centimeters from each other, disperse. And again I remember the London double-decker bus, which crawled between two buses.

The fare is 0.4 USD (5 SCR) for any bus in any direction. To get off at a stop, the driver must be warned in advance by pressing the exit button. The exit buttons are something like the old light switches at the top between the window openings. Sometimes the same old fans hang nearby, and they are different. But they don't work.

I lived a few stops from Victoria. An indescribable feeling when a crowded bus turns almost 90 degrees without slowing down.

You are leaving the market with complete food packages. Suddenly, the sharp fin of a fresh tropical fish still tears the bag, and ripe mangoes are already rolling on the floor like billiard balls. Behind them joyfully falls out the fish. Seychellois around you kindly help and catch your purchases as cleverly as the balance in the bus, which, meanwhile, turns 90 degrees at speed in the other direction.

Not in the Seychelles good beaches for surfers, but why have beaches when there are surf buses.

La Digue Island

La Digue is an island of bicycles. I saw only one normal car here, a police car. There may be a few more hiding somewhere, but no more. Also, a small trolley-styled truck with an open trunk drives around the island, into which tourists fall.

The historical mode of transportation here is mule carts.

Now the mules don’t really carry anyone anymore and earn money in an easier way: they stand and chew grass in the national park. But the tradition remained, and the tourist truck is the prototype of those same carts. There are also small electric cars that take tourists with heavy luggage from the pier to the hotel, but there are also very few of them. Everyone else is run by bicycles.

Children get used to it early years. Even the elementary school has a whole bunch of little two-wheeled "friends".

As soon as the tourist gets off the ferry, he is offered to take a bicycle for 20 USD per day. If you sailed with a large flow of tourists, it is better to take a bike right away so that there is more choice. All the same, everyone will have to take a bike.

You can get to the national park famous beach Sant Ance, finally to your hotel. Hotels have long adapted to the fact that vacationers come on bicycles, so there are many places where there are special parking lots. Without fear, the bike can be left near the beach, the main thing is to be able to find it later.

It should be noted that there are almost no streetlights on La Digue. Therefore, it is better to return home before the onset of complete darkness.

Returning a bike is easy: leave it at the pier in the place where you picked it up. Even if no one is around. And calmly get on your ferry. But if you decide to stay an extra day, be sure to find the person you rented the bike from. Otherwise, he will find you. You can't get away from the island.

With me there was such a case. I once decided to extend the lease and came to agree on this only in the evening. There was no longer a soul on the pier. Made a couple of laps and went home. Indecently late in the evening there was a knock on the door of my bungalow. From the pitch darkness, the bicycle caretaker was looking at me, who completely blended into the background around. I still don't know how he found me. To my words that I came to him, but did not find it on the spot, he mysteriously replied: "Yes ... they told me ...". But who said if there was no one on the pier? I became uncomfortable. It felt like I was being watched.

In general, after this incident, he clearly disliked me and on the last day he tried to charge me for an extra day. Our argument was overheard by a man passing by. He joined in the conversation, the conversation switched to Creole. As the Creole accelerated and the words "cuyo" (Seychelles curse) appeared in speech, the opponents began to shout at each other and waved their arms like Italians.

A crowd of onlookers gathered around. I was terribly embarrassed, but there was nothing left to do but observe. Victory was on my side.

Then it turned out that the guy who stood up for me was the owner of all these bicycles. That is, the boss defended the interests of his own client from his own subordinate with the use of hands and curses. Almost got into a fight. And that's okay. It's OK.

Praslin (Praly)

In Praslin, it is better to rent a car right away. Buses run there, but rarely and not quite on schedule, like on Mahe. Many complain. Therefore, it is better to immediately take the car. You can see what rental offers are available, for example.

Moving between islands

How to get from Mahe to Praslin

Small planes (for about 20 people) ply in this direction. Very beautiful and interesting if you have never flown a corncob. It is better to take seats in the first row, since there is no partition between the cockpit and the cabin.

You can look directly into the windshield and observe the work of the pilots. Pretty interesting. Fly on the strength of half an hour.

For about the same money you can get to fast ferry cat cocos. The ferry is relatively new and comfortable, sailing for an hour. Ticket price:

• 50 USD - economy,
• 55 USD - economy on the upper deck,
• 67 USD - business class.

You can book tickets at seychellesbookings.com.

How to get from Mahe to La Digue

It's already more difficult. There is no airport on La Digue. There are only helipads that are used for private purposes or when someone from the Seychelles needs to be urgently transported to Victoria (for example, to a maternity hospital).

Tourists get first to Praslin, and then on a smaller ferry to La Digue. Travel time - half an hour, tickets can be bought immediately dual: Mahe - Praslin - La Digue. The cost of these tickets:

• 65 USD - economy,
• 70 USD - economy on the upper deck,
• 81 USD - business class.

If you are on a yacht, the problem of moving between any of the islands disappears by itself.

Connection

In the Seychelles, there are two identical telephone operators who are constantly competing. The competition between them is fierce. But clients only benefit from this. In order to lure new users to itself, one or another company periodically sends SMS with promotions from the series: put 20 USD on your account in the next three days, and this amount will triple. It really works.

To apply for a local SIM card, go to the office with your passport (the office is located in Victoria). You really have to wait in line.

The balance can be replenished at the office of the mobile operator or at the checkout of the supermarket (oddly enough, the money is deposited without a commission).

Language and communication

National language Seychelles - Creole. It's a wild mixture of English and French, which the Seychelles adopted from the former colonialists. They speak very quickly and distort words, it is quite difficult to understand speech. Usually I snatched out some pieces of phrases and already thought out the general meaning from them.

Communication in the Seychelles is a separate issue. The Seychelles love to talk about themselves and hear about your life.

When I first arrived on the islands, one local Russian told me the story of his acquaintance with the islands. He came to the Seychelles to his dad, who lived here for a long time. They were walking along Victoria, when suddenly a man approached them and suddenly started a conversation with his dad. They discussed the weather, some news, then said goodbye, and each went his own way. My friend thought that they were old friends, but still decided to ask who it was. To which the answer was: "I don't know."

It turned out that this is normal. An unfamiliar Seychellois may come up to you and begin to tell how he is doing. No, he's not crazy, he doesn't want money from you, he's just bored and decided to chat. In turn, a detailed response is expected from you. For the Seychelles, this is really interesting. And you will be listened to carefully. And perhaps they will give philosophical life advice, by the way, really useful.

Upon arrival, I would not have believed in that story if I had not immediately got into an even stranger one. I stood near the entrance to the market and tried to catch something interesting in the lens.

Suddenly, some Seychelles approached me and started asking about the lens settings. The questions were quite professional, which surprised me. But that was only the beginning. Then, as expected, this man began to tell something about his life, namely, that he likes to swim for a long time with a mask, snorkel in the ocean and sing. At the same time, two homeless people started cursing next to us.

Upon learning that I was from Russia, Varren (that was the name of my new acquaintance) said that he adored Prokofiev, especially the Dance of the Knights from the ballet Romeo and Juliet. He loudly, not embarrassed by anyone, began to hum this piece. It should be noted that he really hit the notes very well.

In the meantime, the homeless were already raging in earnest. I was waiting for someone to splash a bucket on them now cold water. This is how they usually separate fighting cats that cannot be disengaged. I was prepared for the fact that absurdity reigns in the Seychelles. But the contrast of the fight of the homeless, fighting to the singing of Prokofiev's "Dance of the Knights" somewhere on an island lost in the Indian Ocean, will drive anyone to a standstill ...

Further more. Paying no attention to the combatants, Varren continued to finish me off with his musical outlook. I never thought that my musical education would be useful in a conversation with a local Seychellois. He began to argue that Mussorgsky's "Night on Bald Mountain" in the bass part has something similar to Prokofiev's "Dance of the Knights". Therefore, to his shame, he used to think that it was Prokofiev who wrote Night on Bald Mountain. By the way, they really overlap somewhere.

The homeless were already surrounded by curious observers who looked more like fans. My interlocutor was almost pushed, only then he calmly offered to move away from the fight. And then a control shot sounded: “What, in your opinion, is the main idea in Chekhov's play The Cherry Orchard”? I always wanted to know what the Russians themselves think about this.”

The desire to fight back with general phrases disappeared when I saw that they were listening to me attentively and with interest. The exam in literature, as well as in the history of music, was passed.

Features of the mentality

Greetings

In addition to the fact that the Seychelles love to talk, they love to say hello. The fact that you are walking and the Seychellois is passing by in a car will also not prevent him from saying hello by beeping loudly. At first, I thought that this was a typical manifestation of male attention. But when an elderly Seychellois woman beeped and waved to me from the car, I stopped thinking like that. I waved back at her and she drove on.

At first I could not get used to it and did not react. But if you ignore the Seychelles, they don't understand it. They think that you just didn't notice their greeting, and they say hello again more noticeably. Just say hello and they'll leave happy. You quickly get used to it, and you yourself are the first to say hello. This is another bad habit that is better not to bring to Russia. You will not be understood, it is verified.

Family

Matriarchy reigns in the Seychelles. The woman is the head of the family. As soon as the husband is guilty of something, she easily kicks him out. Children stay with their mother, and the state pays benefits for them.

Often there are several children in the family, and all from different dads. And the current husband is not very worried.

Marriages are mostly civil. Relationships are rarely officially registered, because all relatives and friends must be invited to the wedding. But since a typical Seychelles has one half of the island - all sorts of relatives, and the other half - friends, it is very expensive to play a wedding.

Family ties are a different story. The beauty of island life is that everyone knows each other like in a big village. Therefore, the probability of finding the right person is very high. If you are looking for someone, you can just go for a walk and stumble upon him.

When I flew to the Seychelles, for some reason I thought that it would be interesting to talk with the Minister of Tourism of this country. I thought and forgot. And so a week later I am faced with a surprising situation. The last ferry from La Digue to Mahe, where I live, leaves at 17:00. Today, for some reason, he left at 16:30. Everyone knew about it. Except me. As always.

Five o'clock in the evening. I am standing on the pier with a package of souvenirs, on which I spent almost all my money taken on La Digue. It's getting dark. Not fun. But something tells me I should have just stayed here.

As a result, I stayed overnight, got into a conversation with the owner of a small hotel. It turned out that this is one of the oldest inhabitants, whose ancestors "discovered" this island. We talked until late in the evening ... about everything: from the competition to catch the biggest marlin to the idiocy of the idea of ​​marriage contracts. And then he says: “Here is the number of my brother, you would be very interested to talk to him. He's the minister of tourism here."

The next day, I got to Mahe with a sin in half. And then I needed to interview the coach of the Seychelles yachting team. But first we had to find him. By that time, my logic had already turned off. But some kind of magical intuition turned on.

I came to the bus stop, looked at the buses. She sat down in the one on which the eye stopped, and drove off. An unknown bus (as it turned out, route number 13) brought me to the other side of the island.

I get out at the end, look around and just go in the direction I wanted.

A teenager is following me. According to the good old Seychelles tradition, for no reason at all, he begins to tell how he is doing. Namely, that he goes after school to his aunt to fix the light bulb in the garage. Then the conversation somehow smoothly turns to a hobby, and I say that I am interested in yachting. And, finally, I hear what my instinct has been leading me to all day: “Oh, my relative is the coach of the yachting team here.” A little intuition, a few buses - and you go out to any person.

Holidays and parties

You might think that since the Seychelles are so friendly, their holidays are similar to the Brazilian carnival. This is not entirely true. The usual celebration in their house goes according to the following principle: treats are put on the table, the guests who come pick up food, disperse in different corners and just eat. Everyone eats one, maximum two people. No toasts and songs. No unity. All in different directions. They are a bit like animals that don't like being touched while eating. But after eating, you can talk.

Nightlife in the Seychelles

On a Friday afternoon, the smell of the approaching weekend begins to hover in the air. Everyone is getting livelier. You can stumble upon unrestrained fun when they put a tape recorder on the ground and dance incomprehensible dances with African motifs. No matter where: on the sand, in the yard, at the bus stop.

But again, these are small companies. More or less large discos also take place. But they have their own unspoken rules. There is too little population in the Seychelles for some parties to take place in several places at the same time. Therefore, the week is distributed approximately like this: Monday and Tuesday - everyone works, Wednesday - Food Festival on Bouvalon Beach, Thursday - on Taka-Maka Beach (this is the south of the island), Friday - Eden island or Tequilaboom club near Bouvalon Beach after midnight, at Saturday club Katiolo near the airport, on Sunday - picnics.

Of course, you can come to Katiolo on a different day. For example, Wednesday. Everything will be open here too, but most likely you will see only tourists and a few dull Seychelles who do not want to have fun. Because everyone knows that you should come to Katiolo not on Wednesday, but on Saturday.

So, Wednesday is the Feast of Food in Bouvalon. You can come here to eat and watch muchcha dancing around the fire. On the embankment there are tents with knick-knacks and food (take away).

It is safe for tourists here, they roam and are touched by exotic fruits, which you can immediately buy and try. Locals come here rather to see others and show themselves. They come by cars in separate companies, turn on music and communicate.

You can meet and complete despondency, especially among young people. Somehow I saw youth company, who came to "hang out" in an SUV with an open trunk. They turned on the club music at full power and sit. In the trunk. Silently. Listen to music with boring faces and smoke. Ten meters away is the same car with the same picture.

I admit that the reason for the complete apathy lies in the fact that they smoke too much and not cigarettes at all. In general, according to locals, in recent years, the number of drug addicts has begun to increase on the islands, and more and more illegal drugs are being imported. Young people do not go to school, but earn money for drugs by picking coconuts, buying multi-colored straws and selling fresh coconut to drink on the beach for 7 USD (100 SCR).

When it gets completely dark, at the Food Festival they kindle a pioneer fire and start dancing. Finally, there is some kind of unity.

At other local events, there are not many tourists. You can come for the sake of interest, but better company. Girls need to be accompanied by men. Especially fair-haired, since this is the standard of beauty for the Seychelles, and you will be noticed everywhere, whether you like it or not. Although men also need to be on the alert. My friend (of Slavic appearance) told me that once in a bar an elderly woman tried to “pick up” him. She looked at him for a long time and languidly, then nevertheless came up with the words: “Do you want me to ... buy a TV for you?”

National holidays

Once a year, almost the entire population of the Seychelles gathers in one place. The island celebrates Independence Day on June 29, which takes place at the sports arena near Victoria. Next to the arena there are sports buildings and a lot of “just free space” - land with half-dried grass. Exhibitions open in some buildings in the morning National economy. Somewhere they set up separate tents. The semi-dry grass becomes even more trampled, as many tents with street food and all sorts of knick-knacks grow on it.

All day long, crowds go to exhibitions and cafes. You can buy a lottery ticket and get a chance to win a car.

In the evening, when it gets dark, the parade begins.

The president arrives with a lot of security. I didn’t manage to get into the arena itself purely physically. All beat up. There are local amateur performances, children's sports sections and, of course, the military. There are many military men, the uniform is beautiful and different.

Through one of the entrances, I still managed to photograph the backs of the children with ribbons preparing for the exit and a piece of the stands.

Those who did not fit into the stands continue to festivities outside the arena.

The next morning, it is better not to come to this place, as the garbage after the festivities will be removed all day.

By the way, Russia Day (June 12) is also celebrated in the Seychelles. As a rule, the holiday takes place either in the Russian embassy or in one of the hotels.

Religion in the Seychelles

The Seychelles has everything: Catholic churches,

and a Hindu temple

and the mosque

and even an Orthodox "club" (there is no church yet, there is only a room). And yet, the vast majority of the Seychelles are Catholics.

But they are not ordinary Catholics. Still, the sound of African tom-toms lives deep in their subconscious.

It turns out a kind of mix: Catholic sermons end with noisy tribal dances and general fun. You might think that this is gospel - we often see this in American films - when the church choir in multi-colored robes sings cheerful, incendiary songs. So, in the Seychelles - not gospel, here they went even further. But first things first.

You can go to the service in the church, or you can go to the “local church” at the invitation of someone from the Seychelles. There are a lot of them in the Seychelles, that's where all the fun happens. An invitation is needed because it is difficult to find such a “church” on your own. On the surface, it's just… a house. Therefore, it is better to go with one of the residents.
Our morning began with the fact that the Seychelles, who invited us, slept well. He sent a text message about this only when we had already arrived at the bus station in Victoria and had been waiting for him for some time. Seychelles and time management are incompatible concepts. Fortunately, we immediately met another friend in line for the bus and went to work with her.
The local church is like our old houses of culture, only on a smaller scale. Stage, hall, heavy curtains. Only on top there are still TVs with karaoke, and near the stage there is an unexpected synthesizer with drum kits.

There were many parishioners, about fifty. All are dressy. As the only "whites", we immediately caught a bunch of puzzled looks. But then we got used to it.

Then a gloomy pastor came on stage and ... began to sing into the microphone in an amazingly pleasant voice. I think he looked like Frank Sinatra. The karaoke TVs turned on and flashed. Moreover, the flying space was the background on the screens with the text.

On the third song, people were already singing along, got up from their chairs, raised their hands and began to sway to the music. Some cried and repented aloud.

I realized that I had fallen into a sect and that I had to quietly disappear from here. But since we were in the middle of the hall, it was problematic to do so. A security guard approached me imperceptibly and politely showed that we should also dance.

The songs are over. The sermons began. Perhaps I was affected by the atmosphere of general madness, but the pastor's sermons seemed to me very sensible. The main idea is a serious attitude to the institution of marriage. For freedom-loving and loving Seychelles, this is what the doctor ordered.

An hour after the start, an official entered the hall with a wife who looked like Michelle Obama. I provisionally named him mayor. The official part has begun. The "Mayor" said something life-affirming and that everyone did well. And then the question was asked: “Are there people among us who are here for the first time today?”. We did not expect such a trick. The parishioners at once turned their heads to us, "aliens". There was nowhere to hide. The "mayor's wife" ran up, kissed me several times and handed me a heavy envelope. It probably contained a profile of a new parishioner and church literature. I never found out the exact answer, because I accidentally threw it into a donation bag.

Immediately after the “conversion of us” to the new faith, people with packages began to walk around the hall. Parishioners put money in small envelopes in advance, and then throw them into a common bag. When a person with such a package approached me, my brain, which had gone nuts from everything that was happening, was no longer working. But suddenly the herd instinct worked: this is a package, you need to throw an envelope here. In the end, I never found out what the woman who looked like Obama told me.

After that, a new test awaited us - preachers. This is a group of young guys in identical shirts, who deftly divided the hall into groups of eight people and began classes. It turned out that the parishioners also had textbooks with them. The sermons are Catholic, but also with a Seychellois accent. Phrases slipped through that drove me to a dead end. For example: "We are all brothers, we must be tolerant of each other and love each other, but we must not forget that the Jews are the servants of Satan."

The break is over. The day was approaching its culmination - the speech of the parishioners. At the end of the service, everyone can come out and sing, dance, say words of gratitude, talk about their thoughts. No one is shy here, so performances drag on for several hours. Most of all I remember a man dressed in long dark trousers and a closed black jacket with leather inserts. On his hands - a massive gold watch, on his feet - winter boots. Probably a local fashionista. Ever since the beginning of the service, I have watched with regret how he suffers from the heat, but endures. Finally, his hour has come.

The man turned on the soundtrack “like from the Matrix” at full volume and began to dance. Number, I assume, he put himself, after watching enough clips on MTV. Attempts to make a "wave" with the whole body on the floor and figures from break dancing were wildly ridiculous, but sincere and inspirational. The speaker clearly considered himself the God of dancing. The most interesting thing is that everyone else thought so. It was he who deserved the loudest applause. The number ended, but the show continued. People from the audience rushed onto the stage: someone to sing, someone to dance.

One of the preachers started right there learning new moves with a dancer "from the Matrix".

In short, chaos ensued. Only the pastor stood calmly in the corner and watched his parishioners with approval as if they were little children: people are having fun, which means they are happy.

We left there tired and squeezed like lemons, eventually spending about five hours in the service. Five hours of absurdity ... but there is something to remember.

Attitude towards tourists

The Seychelles are a small but proud people. Despite the fact that the islands are geographically part of Africa, they are not Africa. And no one here considers themselves Africans. Except for drug addicts. There is a saying that tourists there are considered walking ATMs: the harder you hit, the more money you get.

The first time I took public transport, I was afraid because I didn't know what to expect. But here tourists are treated more like guests. Yes, they can greet you, talk to you. Young children may look open-mouthed as an alien if you have blond hair, as this is a novelty for them during the day. Elderly Seychelles look askance like a helpless summer resident who came from a large metropolis to the village. But no one will attack you for sure.

Interestingly, the Seychelles are not particularly prone to any commercial activity at all. Again, with the exception of drug addicts, who sell coconuts almost everywhere. This is especially noticeable when you go on a sea excursion for the whole day. I took excursions from different islands, and they were all, in principle, the same.

The first part of the day you watch the lagoons from a boat or catamaran, swim with a mask and fins in open water.

After lunch, you are dropped off on some wild beach for a few hours. A couple more of the same pleasure boats with tourists sail with you. At first, you bathe in absolute delight. Then, finally, you freeze and begin to observe all this beauty from the shore. Then there comes a moment when no one bathes anymore. A bunch of tourists are sitting on the beach, someone is thirsty, someone is starting to want to eat. Everyone is staring hungry to see if the boat has arrived.

And at this moment “x”, a person necessarily appears in each group who begins to argue that it would be nice to put at least a tiny tent here with drinks and food. And every time I think how right he is.

There are quite a lot of such wild beaches in the Seychelles, where tourists are brought every day, who, after swimming and starving, are ready to buy literally everything. But apart from the tourists themselves, there is no one there. Even junkies with coconuts. Although you can drive up from the shore.

When we asked a burning question to the locals who came for us, they answered without enthusiasm from the series “it pollutes nature, and there is no need.” Nimble Turks would probably build rows of cafes and souvenir shops there. But here such a question is perceived even somehow with resentment, because the Seychelles do not believe that their main goal is to make money on tourists. Well, they are pretty lazy.

Food and drink

If I was asked what I did for so long in the Seychelles, the first thing that came to mind was "I ate." In two directions: fresh fish and fruits.

I stopped being interested in snorkeling after I saw that the rainbow-colored fish, for which people come to dive, are on the shelves here and are considered ordinary food.

At first, I simply did not raise my hand to buy them. But after some time I went to the market specifically for this in the morning. Flavored with herbs that you can buy here, this fish is one of the most delicious memories in my life.

shopping

Vacation with children

The Seychelles is more of a honeymoon resort. I rarely met tourists with children in the Seychelles. There are no noisy animation programs and an amusement park. And thank God. This does not fit into the lifestyle of the islands at all. But if children love nature, they will remember the Seychelles for a lifetime: huge turtles, stingrays and flying foxes - that's for sure.

As well as familiar animals in unfamiliar surroundings.

Safety

It gets dark in the Seychelles suddenly. Outside of hotels, there are few lanterns. If you did not have time to get to the house and go somewhere along a country road, you can get into such darkness that you have to move almost by touch. Even the flashlight on the phone does not help much.

When I told that I often found myself in such a situation, my Seychelles acquaintances were shocked. According to them, with the onset of dusk, it is better for a tourist not to walk alone outside the hotel. They are primarily afraid of the Indians, who are very numerous in the Seychelles. Almost all builders and road workers are Indians. In the morning and in the evening they can be seen driving to and from work ... in the back of trucks.

Unlike the Seychelles, they are not at all so open and friendly. Rather, even gloomy. From the sight of cars filled with sad Indians, it becomes uncomfortable. And you begin to understand why the Seychelles are afraid of them.

The more prosperous keep grocery stores here: from small shops to supermarkets. For example, I was very pleased with the name of the Krishna Market supermarket on the outskirts of Victoria. Most products in the Seychelles are imported from India. It is logical that most of the grocery stores on the islands are owned by Indian families. But such Indians are already much more benevolent than workers.

You also need to be very careful with Africans who came from the mainland (, Congo, etc.). They are from local population differ in aggressiveness and larger complexion. The Seychelles are very peaceful and harmless compared to them.

One evening we stood on the pier of the island and watched the ferry leave with tourists, among whom was a group from Kenya. What they did every five minutes was to take pictures of everything they see with old multi-colored flip-phones. Finally, they sailed away, and the island became quiet and calm. I never thought that I would meet these people again, but I was wrong.

As is usually the case in the Seychelles, in the evening it was completely dark, and we moved to the house with some difficulty. Suddenly (as usual, merging into the darkness) a couple of frightened and out of breath Kenyans caught up with us with the question: “You were at the pier, you didn’t take anything by chance mobile phone? We (a little shocked either by their question, or by how they got here) said that we definitely didn’t take it. It turned out that halfway on the ferry, one of the Kenyans found out that he had lost his phone.

Not finding him on the ferry, they panicked and ... forced everyone to turn back to. By the way, this was the last flight on. And most tourists buy a “double” ticket in advance so that upon arrival at the airport they immediately transfer to the next ferry (in our history, too, the last flight) or a plane to Mahe.

How many people at that time were late for a transplant and "hung" on Praslin, one can only guess. But I definitely understood the fact that it is better to stay away from such “travelers” as far as possible. Fortunately, the Kenyans believed in our innocence and ran further into complete darkness to look for a phone around the island.

5 things to do in this country

Nearby countries

They call it the Great Land. Although this is not the closest country. This is due to the fact that many products are imported from there. For the same reason, the influence of Sri Lanka and India is strong. - one of the most popular countries among the local youth to leave to study or work. More than once I had to meet immigrants from Madagascar. Tourists come from Tanzania, Kenya and other mainland countries of East Africa.

If you are lucky enough to get to the Seychelles, you should not combine this trip with a trip to some other countries. For example, to the closest or East Africa.

You can fly to the island, overseas region of France. This is the place where you are unlikely to go specially from Russia. From Réunion by plane, you will get a direct flight in about 2 hours and 40 minutes. It must be remembered that since the island is a possession of France, you will need a Schengen visa to enter.

Main attraction - black sand beaches volcanic origin and, accordingly, the volcano itself. The weather and water in Réunion is usually colder than in Praslin. Swimming here is difficult, as there are a lot of sharks in the area.

Still, in my opinion, it is better to visit another island from the Seychelles ridge than to go anywhere else. Given that it has 115 islands, you will have a lot to roam.

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