Where is the island of Svalbard located? Who owns the island of Svalbard? The Svalbard Islands - lost among the ice

DURING SEARCH northeast passage from the Atlantic Ocean to China and India On June 19, 1596, the Dutch navigator V. Barents suddenly saw a thin strip on the horizon unknown land stretching to the north. After a while, the teeth of the crushed mountain range and snow-white ribbons of glacial streams. The unknown country with pointed peaks Barents designated in the ship's log as Svalbard (Sharp Mountains).
No one disputes the rights of Barents to be considered the official discoverer of Svalbard. However, the Svalbard expedition of the Institute of Archeology of the Russian Academy of Sciences under the leadership of V.F. Starkov clearly proved that already in the middle of the 16th century. On Svalbard there were settlements of Russian Pomors, who then called the Grumant archipelago.

Spitsbergen Islands, Grumant

The history of the development of the archipelago is full of countless exciting events and facts. She owes this to the long-standing attempts to settle it, to the hunting and whale hunting, to the search for minerals, to the extraction of coal, to the famous polar expeditions. The relative proximity to the mainland and the relatively easy accessibility of Svalbard attracted hundreds of brave, inquisitive and enterprising people to it.

An indisputable confirmation of the role of Russia and its sons in the history of the exploration and development of Svalbard is the fact that today we see many Russian names on its geographical map. However, the very word "Russian" is very popular when designating various geographical objects - it is present in the name of a bay, river, valley, islands, etc.

Until the First World War, Svalbard remained a no man's land. But on February 9, 1920, at the Paris Peace Conference, representatives of the USA, Great Britain, France, Italy, the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden and Norway signed the Svalbard Treaty, according to which sovereignty over the archipelago was transferred to Norway. Citizens of the countries that signed the agreement were granted the right of free access to the waters of Spitsbergen, were allowed to engage in fishing and hunting, shipping, industrial and commercial operations on equal terms with Norway. The Norwegians were obliged not to create naval bases and fortifications on the archipelago.

In 1925, Norway included the archipelago in its possessions. Svalbard itself and the surrounding islands of Bely, King Charles Land, Nadezhda, which lies much to the south of Bear, as well as a number of smaller islands, the Norwegians called the Svalbard archipelago (translated from the Old Norse language - Cold Land, or Country with cold shores). Svalbard is a special administrative unit, 95% of its territory belongs to the state, and the rest - the so-called owners of the land by contract. The USSR joined the Paris Treaty on Svalbard in 1935, and in accordance with it and the Mining Charter, we conduct economic and scientific activities in the archipelago. In Russia, as, indeed, in many other countries of the world, the new name of Svalbard did not take root.

Raudfjord Svalbard, Grumant

The islands of the archipelago are bounded in the north by 81, and in the south by 74 degrees N, in the west by 10, and in the east by 35 degrees E. The area of ​​the archipelago is about 63 thousand km2. And although it has thousands of islands, islets and just rocks, there are only five large islands - Western Svalbard, North-Eastern Land, Edge, Barents and Prince Charles Land. The archipelago is washed by the waters of the Arctic Ocean, the Greenland, Norwegian and Barents Seas.

One of the northernmost archipelagos of the Earth - Svalbard - a classic country of polar exploration. Today, this archipelago is a convenient scientific testing ground for the development of new methods and approaches in many sciences, primarily geology, geophysics, glaciology, paleogeography, ecology, biology, and archaeology. Spitsbergen is the only visa-free natural site in our time, where diversified international scientific cooperation has long been established and is fruitfully developing.

walrus, Magdalena fjord Svalbard, Grumant

GEOGRAPHY OF THE ARCHIPELAGO
Svalbard (German Spitzbergen), also Svalbard (Norwegian Svalbard), Spitsbergen (Dutch Spitsbergen), Grumant is a vast polar archipelago located in the Arctic Ocean, between 76 ° 26 "and 80 ° 50" northern latitude and 10 ° and 32° east longitude. The northernmost part of the kingdom of Norway. The administrative center is the city of Longyearbyen. The archipelago and coastal waters are a demilitarized zone.

Significant, by Arctic standards, economic activity in the archipelago, in addition to Norway, according to the special status of the archipelago, is carried out only by Russia, which has a Russian settlement on the island of Western Spitsbergen - the village of Barentsburg, as well as the mothballed villages of Piramida and Grumant.

The archipelago consists of three large islands - West Spitsbergen, Northeast Land and Edge Island; seven smaller islands - Barents Island, White Island, Prince Karl Land, Kongsoya (King's Island), Bear Island, Svensköya (Swedish Island), Wilhelm Island; as well as groups of islands, small islets and skerries ( with total area 621 km²).

The largest islands:
Island Area (km²)
Western Svalbard 37,673
Northeast Land 14,443
Edge 5074
Barents 1288
White 682
Prince Charles Land 615
Kongsoya 191
Bear 178
Svenskoja 137
Wilhelm 120
Others (total area) 621
Total 61,022

mountain range Three Crowns Svalbard, Grumant

natural conditions
Mountain relief.
The highest point of the islands is Mount Newton (1712 m) in Western Svalbard. Glaciers occupy 35.1 thousand km² - more than half of the area of ​​the archipelago. The coast is cut by fjords. Permafrost - layer thickness up to 200 m. Natural thawing of soils in summer ranges from 0.5 to 2.5 m.

Tundra vegetation - dwarf birch (lat. Bétula nána), polar willow (lat. Salix polaris), mosses, fungi, lichens and more than 170 species of vascular plants.

Of the mammals on the islands, only the polar bear, the Svalbard reindeer (the smallest of the reindeer species), and the arctic fox. Attempts to move other land mammals to the archipelago, in particular polar hares and musk oxen from Greenland, were unsuccessful. On the archipelago, there are an abundance of marine animals - seals, harp seals, bearded seals, walruses, beluga whales, whales. All of the listed animals (except for polar bears) are quite often found in close proximity to settlements.

There are about 90 species of birds on Svalbard, of which 36 constantly nest in the archipelago. The only species living in Svalbard all year round is the polar (white) partridge (lat. Lagopus mutus hyperboreus). The rest of the birds fly away for the winter. southern countries, and return to the archipelago only in spring for nesting and breeding.
About half of the territory is occupied by nature protection zones: 3 reserves and 3 sanctuaries.

Large deposits of high-calorific coal are estimated at 10 billion tons. A unique feature of Svalbard is also a significant number of rocks with fossilized remains of plants and animals. In 2007, a Norwegian team of paleontologists managed to discover the remains of the largest pliosaurus Pliosaurus funkei in the archipelago. The high diversity of geological rocks of the archipelago is explained by its long migration through the Earth's mantle, during which Svalbard visited different climatic zones.

The modern climate is arctic, in the west it is significantly softened by the warm Svalbard Current (part of the Gulf Stream). The average air temperature on the coast is from +4.4 °C (July) to -10 ... -14 °C (January). Due to the influence of the Gulf Stream, winter temperatures in Svalbard are on average 20 degrees higher than in other places of comparable latitude. The maximum recorded temperature is +24.5 °C (July 1978), the minimum is -46.3 °C (March 1986).
The archipelago is located in a seismically active zone, earthquakes with a magnitude of 4-5 points on the Richter scale were noted, the possibility of earthquakes up to 6-7 points is expected.

Glacier Monaco Spitsbergen Islands, Grumant

Nature
National parks of Svalbard
The climate is harsh, the vegetation is not rich, the plants are low and cold-resistant. At the beginning of summer, the tundra is heavily swamped due to snowmelt, and the water level in the rivers is high. Basically, the southern part of Svalbard (zero zone) is free of snow in summer, although glaciers are found in the vicinity of all settlements. Red algae are often found on glaciers, giving the snow and ice a pinkish hue. Despite the round-the-clock polar day, the temperature difference between day and night in summer is noticeable and can reach 5-10 degrees Celsius. The first snowfalls occur in September, although snow is not uncommon at the end of August. Due to the relatively mild climate, Svalbard is also popular with tourists during the polar night, when stable snow and ice coverage makes snowmobiling possible.

Geological structure
As a rule, Caledonides participate in the structure of the archipelago. But they are more like the Caledonides of Greenland than Scandinavia. However, both are products of the Early Paleozoic Iapetus Ocean, which opened around the beginning of the Cambrian, about 550 million years ago. This ancient ocean was located in equatorial latitudes in the submeridional direction from 30° S. sh. (ancient coordinates) to the north, between the ancient continents Baltica and Canada-Greenland. Svalbard also includes more ancient rocks (Baikal folding). Apparently, this is a part of the Barents Sea Plate, which is of Proterozoic-Early Cambrian age. Most of the basement of Svalbard was formed somewhere on the active margin of the ancient Iapetus Ocean about 500 million years ago in the early Ordovician and is an island-arc igneous formation, strongly folded during the collision of the continents in the Silurian. By the beginning of the Silurian, the Iapetus Ocean began to shrink, carrying the Baltic towards Canada-Greenland, (450-440 million years ago) the British Isles, the island of Newfoundland and Svalbard, which experienced strong uplift and volcanic eruptions by the middle to the end of the Silurian. Then there was the final collision of the Baltic (Scandinavia), the British Isles, Greenland, Newfoundland and North America (Lawrence). The remains of ancient island arcs, limestones, and detrital oceanic rocks of the Iapetus Ocean were crushed and lifted up to 9,000–11,000 meters. At the point of collision of these parts of the world rose mountain range higher than today's Himalayas. 400 million years ago, Scandinavia was already connected to Greenland, and Svalbard was somewhere between them. The British Isles, Newfoundland and North America were also joined together. In the Late Paleozoic, granitoids were intruded in places. The current deposits of copper, chromium, nickel, titanium, iron, zinc, uranium and other metals, which are now located on the Kola Peninsula, in Scandinavia, Greenland, Svalbard, on the British Isles and on the east coast of North America, were formed precisely in that era.

Seagulls on the Lillehoek Glacier

Story
Presumably, it was first discovered by the Vikings or Pomors in the 12th century. It was known to the Pomors under the name Grumant; now this is the name of one of the mothballed Russian settlements on the islands. Since 1194, a certain Svalbard has been mentioned in Norwegian chronicles. However, there is no certainty that today's Svalbard was meant. It could be both Greenland and Jan Mayen.
In 1596, the islands were "undoubtedly" discovered and documented by the Dutchman Willem Barents, who gave the main island the name "Spitsbergen", which means "sharp mountains". Barents discovered a large number of walruses and whales on the island and in its adjacent waters, which gave rise to numerous fishing expeditions. Around the same time, the archipelago appeared on Russian maps under the name "Holy Russian Islands". A few years later, England and Denmark declared their claims to these lands.

blue whale Svalbard, Grumant

Whaling
In the 17th and 18th centuries, it was used by various countries as a base for whaling, until the whales were almost completely exterminated in this region. The center of Dutch whaling since 1614 was the village of Smeerenburg. Norway, along with Iceland and Japan, continues this fishery today, despite the moratorium of the International Commission on the Regulation of Whaling and the ban on the export of whale meat.
In 1765-1766, Mikhail Lomonosov organized two marine scientific expeditions to Spitsbergen under the command of V. Ya. Chichagov, but the harsh climate did not allow the organization of permanent settlements on the archipelago, and until the beginning of the 20th century, Spitsbergen had no official Russian presence. Nevertheless, the Pomors maintained a seasonal hunting presence in the archipelago, and the most desperate of them regularly stayed for the winter.

After the decline of whaling and fur trade at the end of the 18th century, over the next hundred years Svalbard was actually abandoned and was considered terra nullius - no man's land, that is, despite nominal claims to it. different countries, in fact, was not controlled by anyone. A new wave of interest began only at the end of the 19th century, when year-round access to ports and a relatively mild climate made Svalbard the main base for polar expeditions and Arctic tourism.

Many famous explorers have visited the archipelago, including Fridtjof Nansen, Roald Amundsen and Ernst Shackleton. The northern part of the island of Western Svalbard is named Andre Land, in honor of Solomon Andre, who made an attempt to reach the North Pole in a balloon in 1897. In 1912, Western Spitsbergen was also described and mapped in detail as part of the last expedition of the famous Russian Arctic explorer and pioneer of the Northern Sea Route V.A. Rusanov. Svalbard was also visited by the first Arctic tourists - wealthy Europeans, including the representative of the royal family of Monaco, Prince Albert.

Since the beginning of the 20th century, the economic situation on the islands has also gradually changed. Coal mining by American, British, Norwegian, Russian and Swedish enterprises led to the establishment of permanent settlements. Norway's sovereignty over the archipelago was recognized in 1920 when the United States, Great Britain, France, Italy, Japan, Norway, the Netherlands and Sweden signed the Spitsbergen Treaty in Paris. The Norwegians were in a hurry to secure the disputed lands in the absence of their main rival, the Russian Empire, which determined the unprecedented terms of the treaty. By agreement, all countries participating in the treaty retained the right to extract and develop minerals in the archipelago. On May 7, 1935, the USSR also joined it, which by that time already had several workers' settlements on Svalbard.

Since the mid-1920s, Spitsbergen has become world famous as a base for polar aviation - for example, Roald Amundsen's flights on seaplanes with the money of the American millionaire Lincoln Ellsworth. On May 21, 1925, Amundsen leaves Svalbard for Alaska via the North Pole, but does not fly and returns to Svalbard. On May 11, 1926, the Amundsen-Ellsworth-Nobile expedition starts from Svalbard on an airship designed by Umberto Nobile. Having flown over the Pole (piloted by the airship Nobile), the expedition landed in Alaska. Under Mussolini, Umberto Nobile, already a general and an honorary member of the ruling fascist party, on May 23, 1928, decided to repeat the flight to the North Pole. Starting from Svalbard, he reached the Pole, but on the way back the airship crashed. Amundsen, who flew out in search of Nobile, died, and the surviving crew members of the airship were saved on July 12 by the Soviet icebreaker Krasin.

During the Second World War, Svalbard could not act as a full-fledged military base, so its population was evacuated, and the presence of German troops on the archipelago was limited to weather stations thrown from aircraft and submarines, correcting the work of German aviation in the Arctic. To eliminate them in 1942, a small Norwegian detachment was abandoned in the Longyearbyen region from Scotland on two ships Isbjørn and Selis. Despite the fact that both ships were destroyed, the Norwegians managed to gain a foothold on the shore. In 1943, to destroy this detachment, the Germans sent a detachment of ships from the battleships Tirpitz, Scharnhorst and nine destroyers to Svalbard, which destroyed most of Longyearbyen and Barentsburg with artillery fire (one of the coal mines set on fire at that time was extinguished only in 1960). The landing of the Germans on the coast was less successful. The Norwegians in the Barentsburg region resisted coastal artillery fire and retreated into the mountains to the village of Grumant.

In the post-war years, coal mining in the archipelago was resumed by Norwegian companies and Arktikugol, which also acted as the main representative of the Soviet Union in the Arctic. The gradual depletion of proven reserves in the mines of the archipelago led to a reduction in production everywhere except the Norwegian Sveagruva. As a result, the Norwegian government began to focus Spitsbergen on the development of tourism and expeditionary and scientific base. Arktikugol could not cope with the task of diversifying economic activities and in the post-Soviet period is subsidized from the state budget. In 2006 alone, the costs of maintaining the activities of the former Soviet concessions in Spitsbergen amounted to 395.6 million rubles.

Woodfjord Svalbard, Grumant

Current state
Although the Svalbard archipelago is controlled by the Kingdom of Norway and has been officially part of it since 1925, there are differences related to taxation (tax-free zone), protection environment, protection of the rights of the local population and military activities (demilitarized zone).
There are two official languages ​​on the islands - Norwegian and Russian; Russian citizens do not need a visa to visit the archipelago.

Coal mining in the mines is carried out by the Norwegian company Store Norske, as well as under concession by the Russian state trust Arktikugol (formerly the Soviet trust). Here (the Barentsburg mine) is the northernmost operating railway in the world, which is almost completely underground. Previously, there were several railways and they passed along the surface. All mined coal goes to heating Barentsburg itself, that is, the Russian enterprise is a planned unprofitable and partly an image project.
Currently, Svalbard is one of the centers of polar and subpolar tourism, both large cruise ships from northern Europe and specialized tourist ships regularly stop in the port of Longyearbyen ice class for excursions in the Arctic. The city has several hotels (including SAS Radisson), bars and good restaurants with arctic cuisine (for example, the Kroa restaurant "On the edge of the earth"). There is a very interesting polar museum and the Svalbard International University, and significant scientific work is being done to study climate, geology and glaciology. in summer and winter time Hiking, water (kayaks and boats), snowmobile excursions and expeditions depart daily from the city.

In the 2000s, the World Seed Vault, the so-called "Doomsday Vault", was built on the island with the money of the Norwegian government. This vault contains a seed bank of both cultivated and wild plants, designed to survive even in a nuclear war. In addition, the Berget plateau is home to the SvalSAT satellite station, the EISCAT incoherent scatter radar, and the KHO aurora observatory. Svalbard is connected to the mainland by a submarine fiber optic cable, within Barentsburg, Kolesbukhta and Longyearbyen, there is a cellular connection of both Russian (MegaFon) and Norwegian operators.

city ​​of Longyearbyen Svalbard, Grumant

Population
The population of the archipelago is about 2600 people (as of January 1, 2009). Of these, 69.9% are Norwegians, 18.3% are Russians, and 0.4% are Poles. The island has a completely visa-free regime, that is, representatives of all nations that signed the Svalbard Treaty of 1920 have the right to live and work. From a practical point of view, despite the lack of immigration and customs controls, the harsh climate and high cost of living in Longyearbyen effectively limit the labor migration of service and tourism workers. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, a number of former employees of Arktikugol moved permanently to Longyearbyen, while the population of Russian mining towns continued to decline in proportion to the fall in coal production.

The largest settlement is Longyearbyen, about 2,000 people, most of them Norwegians. It is also the administrative center of the archipelago.

Other settlements:
Russian mining villages: Barentsburg (470 people), Pyramiden (3-4 people in winter, about 15 in summer, for the most part mothballed) and Grumant (mothballed)
Norwegian International Research Center Ny-Ålesund (about 30 people, more than 100 in summer)
the Norwegian mining village of Sveagruva (90 people, with more than 300 workers from Longyearbyen)
Polish research station Hornsund (10 people).
There is also a mothballed settlement-port of Kolesbukhta, which was previously connected with Grumant by rail along the coast. At present, the road has fallen into disrepair, and the tunnel near the village of Grumant is backfilled as a result of ground movements. Spitsbergen Islands, Grumant
Religion
Longyearbyen has the only active Lutheran church with its own clergyman. In Barentsburg there is an Orthodox chapel. In the village of Hornsund there is a Polish research station, consisting of 10 people. In agreement with the Russian Orthodox Church and the Catholic Church in Norway, the Lutheran pastor ministers to the faithful of these churches.

Economy
Since the beginning of the 20th century, coal mining has become the basis of the economy in Svalbard. At the same time, local coal seams, as a rule, have access directly from the slope of the mountains, and many places of coal occurrence are visible to the naked eye. This geological formation resulted in numerous small mines and open cuts along the coastline that opened and closed as the seams were exhausted and explored. The size of the settlements on Svalbard usually corresponded to the thickness of the nearby coal mines.

Norway
The depletion of the main easily accessible coal deposits by the mid-1970s raised the question of the economic feasibility of the existence of Longyearbyen, which by that time had already been subsidized by the Norwegian government. The Norwegian state-owned firm Kings Bay, which owned the settlement of Ny-Ålesund, found itself in a similar position. For this reason, the Norwegian government began an active diversification of the Svalbard economy and provided the inhabitants of the archipelago with tax benefits. In addition, in 1993 the mining town of Longyearbyen was sold to the national government, which concentrated on the development of a university center and tourism.

Currently, the only large profitable mine in the archipelago is Sveagruva, which is the main source of income for Svalbard (NOK 2008 million in 2007). Coal is also mined at Mine No. 7 in Longyearbyen, providing coal to the local power plant. The second most important source of income is tourism (317 million kroons), the third is the provision of scientific activities (142 million kroons). In particular, Kings Bay provides logistical support to about 200 scientists working in Ny-Ålesund during the summer season, and is also responsible for supplying other scientific stations. The tourist business is concentrated around Longyearbyen, where tourists from mainland Norway arrive (two flights a day), as well as cruise ships. All types of business within the Norwegian settlements show stable growth. In particular, a jump in hydrocarbon prices in the late 2000s ensured record production in Sveagruv (over 4 million tons per year), and the number of cruise ship passengers increased from 20,000 in 2005 to 30,000 people in 2008.

Thus, despite the Norwegian government's significant initial investment in airport, seaport and scientific infrastructure, Svalbard is now fully self-sustaining, with an average annual income of 23% higher than the Norwegian average.

Russia
The exhaustion of the coal-bearing layer at the Pyramid mine in the 1990s put an end to the profitability of Arktikugol, which quickly turned into a subsidized resource. At the same time, the planned state expenditures for the maintenance of the trust amount to 870, 820 and 806 million rubles in 2008, 2009 and 2010, and the activity is reduced to maintaining the life of Barentsburg, which has been extracting coal only for its own consumption since 2006. Despite this, the management of Arktikugol regularly announces the imminent resumption of mining at Pyramiden or Grumant, a position supported in part by Norwegian miners. From a political point of view, an open coal mining license for a Russian enterprise facilitates the functioning of Sveagruva, often criticized by the Norwegian Green Party, which has already achieved a ban on oil production in the Svalbard region.

The village of Barentsburg itself is not of long-term tourist interest - despite frequent summer boat trips from Longyearbyen, most tourists visit the Russian settlement for no more than a couple of hours. The development of an independent tour operator infrastructure in Barentsburg and a scientific and logistics base in the Pyramid is hampered by both the lack of ground communication with the airport and the state monopoly on the use of buildings and structures of the FSUE GT Arktikugol settlements. In addition, Barentsburg does not have a repair and logistics base for basing the most demanded (small size) ice-class cruise fleet, and suitable vessels of the former Soviet scientific fleet are leased (Akademik Multanovsky, Professor Molchanov) from foreign companies, or sold to foreign companies. tour operators: Polar Pioneer - former "Akademik Shuleikin", "Akademik Shokalsky", Spirit of Enderby - former "Professor Khromov".

In the long term, the ice-free port of Barentsburg can be used as a base for servicing the Northern Sea Route, increasing the likelihood of timely provision of icebreaking support and reducing the risks associated with ice damage to ships. The development of Barentsburg in this direction is hampered by both the lack of a road to Longyearbyen and the outdated format of Russia's economic activity in the region.

polar bear, Kongsfjord Svalbard, Grumant

Tourism
The archipelago of Spitsbergen (Svalbard) is a territory of Norway and is governed by a Norwegian governor (Norwegian Sysselmannen), who sets quite strict rules for tourism. In particular, tourist helicopter excursions are prohibited on Svalbard. In addition, wild animals (including polar bears) must not be disturbed, and all lethal use of weapons is investigated by the police. Also under protection are traces of human activity earlier than 1946.

To ensure the safety of independent travel in the archipelago, tourists are required to obtain permission to go outside the zero zone (which includes Longyearbyen, Barentsburg, Grumant and Pyramid), as well as have insurance and communicate using satellite phones or radio stations. The standard walking route in the zero zone is from Longyearbyen through the Adventdalen valley to Kolesbuchta, then to Grumant and back through the Bjorndalen valley. There are also hiking trails around the Isfjord and Pyramid glaciers, the transfer is made by "zodiacs" with passing tourist ships of the Barentsburg - Longyearbyen - Pyramid line.

Most polar tourists arrive in Svalbard during the polar day, from March to August. In spring, snowmobile and ski trails are most popular, while in July-August hiking expeditions are the most popular. During the polar day, the temperature in Svalbard averages about five degrees Celsius, although snowfalls are also not uncommon. In May-June, the tundra is very swampy and the main tourist routes pass through glaciers and fjords (in kayaks).

The development of Arctic cruises gave a good impetus to Longyearbyen's hotel industry, which registered 93,000 guests in 2008 at a fairly high cost of hotel rooms (from $120). Despite the fact that there are no economy class hotels in the city, tourists can stay in a hostel or campsite right in front of the airport. There is also a hotel in Barentsburg, but it is not very popular due to the underdevelopment of the tourism industry in the village.

Weapons and hunting
Svalbard (including Longyearbyen) is on the seasonal polar bear migration route to the pack ice. Despite the fact that the probability of meeting a bear on a polar day at the 78th parallel is small, it is customary in the archipelago to carry large-caliber weapons (rifled or smooth-bore) when leaving Longyearbyen. It is also recommended to have a flare gun with you and to protect the places of overnight stay with flare mines. There are several sports shops in the city that rent weapons and ammunition to tourists. In 2009, the governor of Svalbard introduced a new rule for renting weapons, for which you must provide a certificate from the police of the country of permanent residence.
A large number of animals live on the archipelago (including Svalbard reindeer), but hunting requires a license from the governor in advance. Spitsbergen Islands, Grumant

Russian projects and prospects
Despite the complete openness of the archipelago to everyone who wants to live and work, there is practically no private Russian business in Svalbard. At the same time, Russian state property is used extremely inefficiently and requires costs, both to maintain and maintain jurisdiction (Norwegian law sets a maximum period for abandonment of objects). To justify the permanent subsidies, the management of Arktikugol brought up various projects for discussion: including the resumption of coal mining in Grumant and Pyramid, the development of Barentsburg as a fishing base, etc. for example, the ground road Barentsburg - Longyearbyen, or the restoration of the Grumant - Kolesbukhta railway) are unknown.

In addition, exotic projects were periodically voiced in the Russian media: the construction of ophthalmological and balneological centers in Barentsburg (a powerful source of mineral water was discovered near the village), the extraction of semi-precious stones, the processing of fish in a factory staffed by labor migrants, the regular extraction and primary processing of algae for needs of poultry farming as a food additive in poultry feed and so on. Spitsbergen Islands, Grumant

LAND OF MOUNTAINS AND GLACIERS

VISA FREE NATURAL SITE

Due to structural features and a wide variety of geological formations, rocks of different ages coexist on Svalbard, from Precambrian to Quaternary, and, which is especially valuable for researchers, they are not hidden from the eyes.

In the first half of the Tertiary period, the archipelago was covered by the sea. The basins accumulated strata of sedimentary rocks with a thickness of several hundred meters. They contain the remains of fossilized marine animals and plants. At the end of the Tertiary period, the land rose and the islands were covered with broad-leaved forests, where, along with oaks, maples, ash trees, lindens and beeches, such heat-loving trees as magnolia, swampy cypress, plane tree and gigantic sequoia grew. The remains of this vegetation in the rocks testify that the climate in Svalbard was then much warmer and wetter than it is today.

About 3 million years ago, the temperature of air and water in the Northern Hemisphere dropped noticeably and the forest landscape was replaced by tundra. But glaciation spread especially widely several hundred thousand years ago. Giant ice sheets formed that reached the temperate latitudes of Europe and North America. At that time, most of Svalbard was covered with glaciers ... Millennia passed - they either retreated or advanced again. Their area has changed greatly, shrinking to modern and even smaller sizes.

Reserves of high-calorific coals in the bowels of the archipelago are estimated by Norwegian geologists at 10 billion tons. Since the 1960s, geologists from a number of countries have been actively searching for oil on the islands of the archipelago, and especially on its shelf - according to some reports, they are very promising in terms of oil and gas potential. This is also confirmed by the results of several exploratory boreholes.

On Svalbard, earthquakes with a magnitude of 4 - 5 points were noted. Seismologists admit the possibility of maximum earthquakes up to 6 - 7 points. The archipelago experiences vertical uplift of the earth's crust at a rate of about 5 mm per year. Due to this, sea terraces up to 100 meters or more were formed. Svalbard was once the scene of strong volcanic activity. In the north there are two extinct volcanoes, in the area of ​​which hot springs and fumaroles operate. The archipelago is located in a zone of stable permafrost, interrupted only under the bottom of bays and in river valleys. The thickness of the permafrost reaches approximately 200 m. In summer, only an insignificant upper layer thaws - from 0.5 to 2.5 m.

Compared to Franz Josef Land, Novaya Zemlya, and Severnaya Zemlya to the east, Svalbard is closer to the Icelandic center of persistent low pressure. In the region of the archipelago, there is a boundary between the warm waters of the North Atlantic Current and the cold waters of the Arctic Basin. Most of the atmospheric precipitation falls in the western, southern and eastern parts of Svalbard, while the coastal strip several tens of kilometers wide is mainly moistened. While the amount of precipitation decreases sharply towards the center of the archipelago, the average air temperature in the same direction increases.

The harsh climate of the high latitudes of the Arctic is mitigated by the branch of the warm Norwegian Current, one of the branches of the Gulf Stream, running along the western coast of Svalbard. Due to its influence, the sea off the western coast of Svalbard is often ice-free even in winter, while the eastern straits are usually ice-filled in summer. In the western part of the archipelago, thaws and rains occur in the midst of winter. The highest air temperature (24.5o) was recorded in July 1978, and the lowest (-46.3o) in March 1986. It is worth mentioning that Svalbard is characterized by frequent magnetic storms, sharp drops in atmospheric pressure and air temperature , strong snowstorms.

As with any region of the Arctic, Svalbard is characterized by long polar nights and days. From October 28 to February 14, i.e. more than 100 days, the sun does not appear above the horizon. But from April 20 to August 20 - about 130 days - it does not leave the sky.

The largest island of the archipelago is Western Svalbard, its area is 39 thousand km2. It is a typical mountainous country with numerous spiky mountains and ridges. Although the mountains are not high (the highest point of the island and the archipelago Mount Newton reaches 1717 m), they are strongly dissected. In the east, the mountains turn into a plateau up to 800 m high. The western and northwestern shores of the island are indented with bays that go far into the land. The largest of them - Is-fjord and Veyde-fjord - wedged, respectively, from the west and north into the very center of the island, cutting it into two parts. The peculiarity of the western bays is that they often do not freeze until January-February and are freed from ice in May-June. To a large extent, this contributes to the establishment of a long sea communication between the mainland and the main settlements of the archipelago.

fjord Lillehoek Svalbard, Grumant

glaciation of the archipelago
An integral and characteristic feature of Spitsbergen is the extensive glaciation, the area of ​​which exceeds 35 thousand km2. About 60% of the surface of Svalbard is encased in many meters of ice armor, which gives its nature a special beauty and attractiveness. The total ice reserve in the glaciers of the archipelago is about 7.5 thousand km3. The reserve of "solid" water, concentrated in glaciers, exceeds the annual flow of the Volga by 30 times.

Svalbard, Franz Josef Land, Novaya Zemlya and Severnaya Zemlya are part of the same glaciological province. But Svalbard is the first among them to take on the heavy rainfall brought by cyclones from the North Atlantic to the Eurasian Arctic. Thus, the glaciation of the three Russian archipelagos and Spitsbergen are interconnected. In addition, elucidation of the conditions for the existence and development of active glaciers in Svalbard is important for understanding the patterns and features of the evolution of glaciation throughout the Eurasian Arctic. Polar glacier fluctuations are well known to be a sensitive natural indicator of global climate change.

The glaciation of Spitsbergen, extremely diverse in morphology, regime and dynamics, makes it a unique glaciological object in the entire Arctic. Here, as if in a miraculous open-air museum, almost all the various types of glaciers that exist on the globe are concentrated. This diversity is due to differences in the relief and climate of the archipelago.

The main mass of glaciers covers mountain valleys and plateaus, and the height of the surface of glaciers rarely exceeds 1000 m. In winter, many glaciers have internal and subglacial runoff and periglacial icings. The presence of water lubrication stimulates the sliding of ice masses, which contributes to their mechanical instability. Ultimately, this causes a sharp regular movement (pulsation) of the glacier - surge. There are over 50 surging glaciers on Svalbard. The most unstable of them have a two-layer structure of "cold" and "warm" water-containing ice.

Of particular interest to glaciologists is the net (or Svalbard) glaciation. From the air, it may seem like a giant chessboard, where the white fields are glacial streams that have filled more than half the system of valleys of the region and are connected to each other in the upper reaches, and the black fields are separate sharp peaks and mountain ridges sticking out of the ice.

According to the nature of glaciation, the entire territory of Svalbard is divided into three large regions. The first, ice cover, is the island of North-Eastern Earth. Most (80%) of this second largest island of the archipelago is occupied by three significant ice domes (Austfonna, Vestfonna and Serfonna) with a total area of ​​​​about 11 thousand km2. The volume of ice concentrated in them is 44% of the total volume of ice on the archipelago. Mountain-cover glaciation occurs on the islands of Western Svalbard, Prince Karl Land, Barents and Edge. The bulk of the glaciers of the archipelago (more than 60%) is located on the island of Western Spitsbergen. The region of mountain glaciation occupies the middle central part of this island, stretching from south to north.

The practical study of the glaciers of the archipelago is caused by the need to know the features of their regime and structure when designing settlements, mines, roads, bridges, transmission lines ... This is also required to take into account the valuable reserves of "solid" water, because most settlements Svalbard is used for drinking and economic activities melted snow and glacial waters. Finally, the glaciers can also be considered a recreational area of ​​the archipelago, as they are a favorite place for the islanders to ride high-speed snowmobiles - snowscooters and skis.

World War II interrupted the study of Svalbard. A new milestone in research began after the work of the International Geophysical Year (1957/58). At that time, Swedish and Polish scientific stations were operating in the North-East Land and in the south of Western Spitsbergen. However, it must be admitted that until the mid-1960s, the Svalbard glaciation remained clearly insufficiently studied. There was not even a general summary of its glaciers. Comprehensive and systematic glaciological studies carried out by the expeditions of the Institute of Geography of the USSR Academy of Sciences on Franz Josef Land, Novaya Zemlya and the Polar Urals suggested the need for a detailed study of the Svalbard glaciation. The first glaciological expedition to the Norwegian archipelago was organized by the Institute of Geography in 1965. Since then, 27 expeditions have been carried out. During several field seasons, glaciologists of the Institute of Geography conducted joint research on the glaciers of Svalbard with colleagues from the University of Silesia (Poland) and the Norwegian Polar Institute.

EXPEDITIONS OF THE INSTITUTE OF GEOGRAPHY
Over many years of field work, the expedition members made hundreds of many kilometers of routes throughout the archipelago on foot, on skis, by boat and by helicopter. A huge cycle of studies of the internal structure, hydrodynamic regime and evolution of glaciers in connection with climate change was carried out. For the first time in the history of Svalbard, radar sounding and deep thermal well drilling with ice core sampling for various analyzes were successfully applied on glaciers.

Based on the delay time and the nature of the reflected radio signals, it is possible to determine the thickness profiles of ice and the under-ice relief, as well as to study the internal structure of the glacier. Radar studies of about 150 glaciers of various types and shapes were carried out from the helicopter. The greatest ice thickness was on the Austfonna dome (North-Eastern Land) and the Holtedal glacial plateau (north-west of Western Spitsbergen) - about 600 m. 60 wells were drilled in different ice formation zones, including 25 core holes.

The deepest wells that reached the bedrock were drilled on the Amundsen glacial plateau (southern part of Western Svalbard) and in the center of the Austfonna dome, respectively 586 and 566 m. climate change over the past millennium. It was possible to identify climate warming in the 16th century, cooling in the 17th - first half of the 19th century. ("Little Ice Age") and warming since the end of the 19th century. More than a century after the end of the "Little Ice Age" the Svalbard glaciation is in relatively warm climatic conditions. Over the past few decades, Svalbard has been experiencing a slow cooling and, as a result, a slowdown in the retreat of glaciers ...

One of the main features of the activities of the expeditions of the Institute of Geography was the study of glacial processes throughout the archipelago in combination with stationary observations on several reference glaciers located in different areas. In 1995, together with the National Institute of Polar Research (Japan) on the Austfonna ice dome at 79o latitude. electromechanical cable core drilling was carried out and a continuous core was taken to a depth of 210 m for subsequent complex isotope-geochemical analysis. At the same time, a structural-stratigraphic description of the core, measurement of pH values ​​and electrical conductivity of the upper horizons, well thermometry, pitting, meteorological observations and other studies were carried out.

At present, the Svalbard Glaciological Expedition is participating in the project "Mechanisms of interaction of polar glaciers with the atmosphere and ocean and the evolution of glaciation" (headed by V.M. Kotlyakov). The purpose of the project is to study the patterns and mechanisms of global and regional changes in climate and the natural environment of the Arctic, the regime and evolution of glaciers and ice sheets, the reconstruction of glaciation and climatic fluctuations over the past 20 thousand years and their forecast to identify the role of glaciation in changes in the level of the World Ocean. These works will be carried out on the basis of ice core analysis and numerical modeling in Svalbard, Franz Josef Land and Severnaya Zemlya. The summarized results should be included in the collective final monograph "Modern and ancient glaciation of the Arctic".

LIFE IN SPITSBERGEN

Despite the fact that more than half of the area of ​​​​Svalbard is occupied by glaciers, there is a rather diverse life on the land plots located next to them. Botanists have counted more than 160 species of flowering plants here. In the short, cool summer, the surface of the rocky and marshy tundra is transformed beyond recognition in some areas. Rarely, but you can see midget trees. These are dwarf birches and willows, the height of which does not exceed ... 30, and the thickness is 2 - 3 cm. And their round leaves are no larger than lingonberries in size.

The fauna of Svalbard is not very rich. The most popular animal here, of course, is the polar bear - a powerful predator, a kind of living emblem of the archipelago. Indeed, its image can be found everywhere: on souvenirs, badges, calendars, pennants, clothes, bags, postcards, stamps ... It is interesting that the former owner of the Arctic was first described as an independent species on Svalbard more than 200 years ago by the English scientific expedition of Captain K .Phipps. The long-term polar station of the Polish Academy of Sciences, located in the south of Western Spitsbergen, is annually "visited" by 200 - 300 polar bears, which is associated with a long-established migration route. On the archipelago, many cases of entry of animals into settlements and places of basing of expeditions and tourists have been noted. Insidious attacks on people usually ended tragically. This danger should always be remembered in the Arctic.

The reindeer population is impressive in Svalbard. Until recently, hunting for him, like for a bear, was prohibited. However, now the governor issues licenses for large deer hunting. More recently, musk oxen were found on the islands, which were brought from Greenland in 1929. They acclimatized and multiplied on the archipelago. However, due to thick ice crusts on the surface, which arose as a result of alternating thaws and frosts in the 1970s and 1980s, it became extremely difficult for musk oxen to get pasture, and mass mortality of animals began. Near the villages you can see Arctic foxes, and on the sea ice - pinnipeds, mainly seals. In some places there are rookeries of huge walruses. Cetaceans enter the bays, including herds of beluga whales. Cod, haddock, halibut and other commercial fish live in coastal waters. In addition to fishing, shrimp fishing is also mastered. Charr is found in lakes and rivers, also known as Svalbard salmon.

The world of birds of Svalbard is rich. Most of them are connected with the sea. There are several dozen species of birds living on steep cliffs. In noisy bird markets nest different types gulls: guillemots, loons, sandpipers. The most common birds are guillemots, puffins or sea parrots. Eider is the most numerous species of ducks, it lives outside the markets, like loons and geese. Only the white partridge and snowy owl remain to winter in the archipelago. In open areas and near settlements nesting nests of aggressive long-tailed arctic terns are found. There are also very small birds from the order of passerines - snow bunting, they are the first to bring the welcome news of the imminent approach of spring from a distant mainland to the archipelago ... In order to preserve the easily vulnerable polar nature in Spitsbergen, national parks, reserves and reserves. They occupy half of the area of ​​the archipelago.

Svalbard is the country with the longest organized tourism in the Arctic. It first arose at the end of the 19th century, when the Norwegian shipping company Vesterålen opened regular traffic on comfortable ships from Norway to the archipelago. The captain on the first of them was a famous sailor and associate of Nansen and Amundsen - Otto Sverdrup. Entrepreneurial people immediately built on the banks of the Adventfjord, where it merges with the Isfjord, a hotel with forty rooms and a post office. For lovers of polar exotics, they began to issue a special postage stamp with the image of a polar bear. But due to the high cost of rooms, tourists stopped less and less. Eventually the northernmost hotel in the world had to close.

On September 2, 1975, the King of Norway, Olav V, solemnly opened the airport on Cape Hotel (the name remains from the old hotel). Now, almost daily, mighty air liners arrive here from the mainland. With the advent of maritime navigation, tens of thousands of organized and hundreds of "wild" tourists from all over the world flock to Svalbard.

There is no permanent population on the archipelago; people come here to work for one or two years under a contract. Many of them come back again. There is a belief that a polar "bacillus" settles in a person who once got into the Arctic, infecting him with an incurable "disease" - love for nature and the exotic of the North.
The administrative center houses the offices of the Sture Noshke Coal Company and the Svalbard Travel Agency, the Norwegian Polar Institute, sea ​​port, radio, television and weather stations, hotels, post office, bank, museum, hospital, shops, restaurants, cafes, a school with a swimming pool... In 1994 Svalbard International University was opened! Dozens of cars of different brands (including taxis) scurry along the paved roads, schoolchildren ride motorcycles, mopeds and bicycles, and young mothers carry their polar babies in strollers. During the weekend, many Norwegians, being great nature lovers, rush to hikes - in the summer on boats and motor boats, and in the winter on snowmobiles and skis. Very popular are small cozy summer cottages scattered all over the nearby valleys and along the coast of the bays...

On the northwestern tip of Svalbard, on the 79th parallel, there is one of the most beautiful bays archipelago - Kongsfjord. On the flat coast of the bay, near the pyramidal mountains and glaciers, there is a small settlement. Ny-Ålesund. Hence in 1925, 1926 and 1928. the famous expeditions of R. Amundsen, R. Byrd and W. Nobile started to the North Pole on airplanes and airships. One of the northernmost settlements on Earth, formerly better known as Kingsbay, owes its origin to the construction here in 1917 of the northernmost coal mine in the world. Due to frequent collapses and explosions of methane gas, which led to accidents, the mine was closed in 1963. Today, the monument to the memory of the dead miners, the mining museum, the old waste heap and a small engine that once dragged trolleys with coal to the port remind of this.

Nowadays, Ny-Ålesund has become the tourist and research center of Svalbard. There are scientific stations of Norway, France, Germany, England and Japan. Tourist and fishing boats often moor at the pier, and a small airstrip near the village receives local single- and twin-engine aircraft and helicopters making regular flights from Longyearbyen. On the eastern outskirts rises a 34-meter triangular openwork metal mast, to which the airships "Norway" and "Italy" moored 70 and 68 years ago. Not far from this place, on a low hill, grateful descendants erected monuments to the brave R. Amundsen and the expedition members W. Nobile, who died off the northern coast of Svalbard after returning from the North Pole. All these structures, as well as the village of Ny-Alesund itself, are silent witnesses of the heroic history of the development of the Arctic and Svalbard.

The third Norwegian settlement is located in the upper reaches of the Van Meijenfjord, a little south of Logyerbyen. In 1917, the Swedes built a mine here and named it Sveagruva - "Swedish Mine". Subsequently, the mine with a coal deposit was acquired by the Norwegians. Currently, they are mining here on a rotational basis, delivering miners from Longyearbyen by planes and helicopters. The mined coal is exported mainly to the "capital", where, after enrichment, it is sent further to the mainland.

On Cape Linnaeus, at the southernmost entrance to the largest bay of the Isfjord archipelago, the Norwegian weather station "Isfjord Radio" is located. It was built after the installation of a powerful lighthouse here. Now saturated with modern technology and automation, a large station is served by only three specialists and a cook!
Very close from here east coast Grönfjord, perched on several mountain terraces of the village of Barentsburg, the largest Russian coal mine in Svalbard. In 1932, the Arktikugol Trust acquired the Barentsburg land plot together with the mine from the Netherlands Svalbard company Nespiko. Already in 1936, he overtook all other Svalbard mines in coal production.

Svalbard coal supply northern regions The USSR and its navy in the Arctic becomes quite significant before the Second World War. But the Barentsburg and Grumant mines that were then operating, as well as the Pyramid under construction, had to be closed at the beginning of the war. People were taken to the mainland. The Norwegians were also evacuated. After that, control over Spitsbergen passed for a while to the Germans. In 1942, a group of Norwegian patriots landed in Barentsburg with the aim of preventing them from using the archipelago. The Soviet mine until the autumn of 1942 served as the main base of the paratroopers. From here, radio operators transmitted weather reports to England. German bombers regularly attacked Barentsburg. In November 1942, naval guns were brought from England. One of them was installed five kilometers from the village on the eastern entrance cape in Grönfjord. On September 8, 1943, this gun took on an unequal battle with the Nazi squadron led by the battleships Tirpitz and Scharnhorst. As a result of the attack, Barentsburg and Grumant were completely destroyed and burned. Longyearbyen and Sveagruva. After the war, they all rose from the ruins and began to produce coal again. However, the Grumant mine was closed in 1961.

At present, Russia, represented by the state trust Arktikugol, owns 26 land plots on Spitsbergen with a total area of ​​more than 250 km2. Modern Barentsburg and "Pyramid" are highly mechanized autonomous mines. In addition to mines, they also include settlements, seaports, helicopter stations, electromechanical workshops, heating stations, car parks, television stations, subsidiary farms ... Sea vessels deliver coal mined here to the Kola Peninsula, to Arkhangelsk, as well as to Western Europe . In recent years, many post-war wooden buildings in the mines have given way to three- and four-story stone houses with all amenities, and streets and carriageways have received normal coverage. Significantly improved life and such new buildings as large beautiful palaces cultures with cinema halls and libraries, sports complexes with swimming pools and stadiums, local history museums, hotels, cafes...

Good-neighborly relations have long been established between the inhabitants of Norwegian and Russian settlements. Miners regularly exchange various professional and tourist delegations and groups. Every year, in winter and summer, the mines host international sports competitions and amateur art concerts. Such meetings have become a pleasant tradition. This is always a noticeable event in the harsh life of the islanders, temporarily cut off from their home and loved ones.

At the very beginning of the 1980s, a scientific campus was put into operation on the southern outskirts of Barentsburg. In addition to the hydrometeorological observatory, it included expeditionary bases of the Russian Academy of Sciences and geologists "Sevmorgeo" from St. Petersburg. All this contributed not only to improving the life of the northerners, but also to the intensification of scientific activity. It remains to be regretted that Lately the situation with the financing of scientific research, including in Svalbard, sharply worsened. Suffice it to say that the glaciological expedition of the Institute of Geography of the Russian Academy of Sciences in 1996 included, in addition to the author of the article, only one more glaciologist. I really want to believe that this is not forever. After all, Svalbard remains a unique natural laboratory for solving many urgent problems of science.

THE TOP OF EUROPE - THE MYSTERIES OF THE ARCTIC
“The crown of Europe” is often called this mountainous archipelago, lost in the icy expanses of the Arctic. Some of its islands are located beyond the eightieth degree of northern latitude. Only the north of Greenland and the Canadian island of Ellesmere are even closer to the North Pole.
In the morning fog, sailors sailing from the south to the archipelago, it seems that the contours of the towers of medieval castles appear from the haze. It is the mountain peaks of Spitsbergen, reaching 1700 meters in height, that darken through a gray veil.

But then the ship comes closer, the fog clears, and a panorama of whimsically indented black rocky coasts topped with white glaciers opens before your eyes. In places, ice tongues descend directly to the sea, breaking off with ledges of transparent blue ice. Narrow winding bays are lined with foamy stripes of waterfalls. And in the depths of the largest bay - Isfjorden - the houses of the capital of Svalbard - the village of Longyearbyen glow with bright red, green and blue cubes.

More than a thousand islands are part of the archipelago. True, almost all of them are small, only five of them deserve the epithet "large". These are Western Svalbard, Northeast Land, Edge Island, Barents Island and Prince Karl Land. Svalbard is larger in area than Switzerland and could host two Belgiums on its islands.

The archipelago has had several names since ancient times. The Dutch called it Svalbard, the Russians - Grumant, the Norwegians - Svalbard. Modern journalists often call this region the "Isles of Mist". Indeed, Svalbard is one of the most "foggy" places on Earth. Even the famous African Skeleton Coast ~ the Namib Desert and the Bering Sea, notorious for its rains and fogs, cannot be compared with it in this respect. More than 90 days a year (a quarter of the year!) There are fogs over the islands. And in June-October every month there are from 12 to 20 days with fogs.
The fogs on Svalbard are so dense that you can't see anything even five paces away. Sounds are muffled, the outlines of objects are distorted, so that it is impossible to recognize even the familiar area. All buildings and large stones are covered with a fluffy brush of frost.

In the spring, during fog, one can observe an unusual optical phenomenon, which in the language of scientists is called "gloria". The low polar sun casts long shadows of objects on the veil of fog and low clouds, which are surrounded by a rainbow outline. The famous polar explorer Amundsen, who made forced landing on a plane in the ice north of Svalbard, describes Gloria as follows:
“Away from us, in the fog, I saw the full reflection of our car, surrounded by a halo of all the colors of the rainbow. The spectacle is amazing, beautiful and unique.”
From the board of the ship going to Svalbard, already from afar you can see the intricately jagged peaks of the mountains, for which he was given such a name (Svalbard - in Dutch “Sharp Mountains”). This name was given to the archipelago by the Dutch navigator Willem Barents, who discovered it in 1596. True, in fairness, it must be said that the Russian Pomors, two centuries before the Dutchman, used to go on their boats to the cold Grumant (as they called the archipelago).

One day, four Russian hunters, having landed here for hunting, the next morning did not find their ship crushed by ice. Russian Robinsons lived on Svalbard for six years before they were rescued by another Russian ship that accidentally entered the islands.
After Barents, many famous sailors and explorers visited the archipelago. Hudson and Chichagov, Nordenskiöld and Nansen, Amundsen and Rusanov laid their routes here. But the main contribution to the study of Spitsbergen, no doubt, was made by the brave coast-dwellers, who for five centuries had mastered the harsh islands. Until now, on the map of the archipelago, you can find the Russian Islands and Russkaya Bay, Mount Admiral Makarov and Cape Ermak, the Rusanov Valley and Solovetskaya Bay.

The uniqueness of the nature of Svalbard is determined by the fact that one of the branches of the warm North Atlantic current, the continuation of the Gulf Stream, approaches its western coast. The heated waters through the fjords penetrate deep into the islands and warm them. In February, the frost here does not exceed fifteen degrees, and the average annual temperature on the islands is six degrees above zero. (And this is at latitude 80!)

Therefore, the coast of the islands in summer is covered with a green carpet of tundra, full of bright colors. Purple saxifrages, yellow polar poppies, blue forget-me-nots and purple carnations delight the eyes of the inhabitants of Loggyir and other Svalbard villages: Barentsburg, Pyramiden, Ny-Ålesund, Longyearbyen and Sveagruva on a long polar day. And the snowy fields on the slopes at this time turn pink in places due to the appearance of microscopic algae on them.
The wide valleys that go high into the mountains are filled with glaciers here. Their silent, dirty white rivers slowly (usually at a speed of a meter a day, no more) move towards the sea. At the confluence of glaciers in the fjords, the ice slides into the water and breaks off. This is how icebergs are formed. In some Valleys, where glaciers end before reaching the shore, short but turbulent rivers flow from under them, the longest of which is only 48 kilometers. In winter, they all freeze to the bottom.

The mountain peaks of the islands, eroded by glaciers, take the most fantastic forms. Thus, Mount Skansen resembles an ancient fortress, Mount Tempel is an ancient Indian temple, and Mount Pyramid looks like a stack of giant neatly folded bales of hay. The most famous mountain- Tre Kruner - has three peaks. Their names: Svea, Nora and Dana symbolize the brotherhood of the three Scandinavian countries - Sweden, Norway and Denmark. The truncated pyramidal contours of the three peaks are colored with clear horizontal stripes of yellow limestone and red sandstone.
Ancient Scandinavian legends represented Svalbard as a gloomy country of cold, darkness, snow and ice. The Vikings believed that this is the most inhospitable land in the world. But it's not fair. Compared to other Arctic islands such as Ellesmere or Severnaya Zemlya and Franz Josef Land, Svalbard looks like a real oasis in the icy polar desert. It is inhabited by three thousand people, mostly scientists and researchers of the North and, oddly enough, miners. Coal deposits were formed here hundreds of millions of years ago, when Svalbard was one with Europe and its climate was incomparably warmer than today. Now Russian miners, in agreement with the Norwegians, are engaged in coal mining here.

But life on the islands can be found not only in human settlements. Reindeer and arctic foxes, nimble rodents-lemmings and white partridges are found here. A snowy owl circles silently over the valleys, and in the summer thousands of migratory birds fly here: ducks, geese and swans.

Most of the noise and splash on the coast. With a warm current, flocks of cod and herring, halibut and haddock come to the island, followed by seals: harp and sea hare. On the pebbly beaches under the rocks, fanged walruses arrange their rookeries, and in the open sea you can often see fountains of whales. There are still many of the latter in the waters of Spitsbergen to this day, although whaling fleets have hunted in these places since the time of the Barents and Hudson. Most of all are white whales and killer whales, but the famous narwhal unicorn is also found.
The head of this whale ends with a sharp two-meter bone outgrowth, similar to a horn. They say that Ivan the Terrible had a staff made of a beautiful, twisted narwhal horn (probably brought by Russian coast-dwellers from Grumant). The main seal hunter, the polar bear, also comes to the islands. The largest predator of the polar basin is now under the protection of the law and is not at all afraid of humans. Sometimes meetings with him end sadly for polar explorers, especially on distant islands.

And it happens that desperate radio messages like the following fly to Barentsburg or Longyearbyen from researchers working somewhere on the Prince Charles Islands: “Send a helicopter for evacuation urgently. Surrounded by nine hungry bears. Don't risk leaving the house."
The musk ox, brought here in the 1920s from Greenland, also took root in the archipelago. The herd of these mighty squat ungulates, covered with thick and long hair down to the ground, has grown noticeably in recent years, since there are no wolves on Spitsbergen, their main enemies. In severe winters, female musk oxen hide small cubs under their belly, where in any snowstorm it is warm and cozy in a canopy of wool. Now there are more than a hundred musk oxen in Svalbard, but in the beginning there were only 17.
The decoration of Svalbard is its wonderful bird colonies. Tens of thousands of kittiwakes, guillemots, guillemots, fulmars, puffins and cormorants rumble and bustle about on tiny ledges of sheer cliffs that break off to the sea. And predatory burgomaster gulls soar above the rocks, looking for prey.

There is enough fish in the sea for both seals and gulls, especially since near the western coast, even in winter, under the influence of a warm current, the border of floating ice forms a deep bend, like a bay with ice shores, facing north. In the old days it was called Kitolov's Bay, since it was here that the whaling center was located. In other winters, there is no ice at all off the western coast, and Isfjord is covered with ice cover only for a month and a half.
However, the North is the North, and from October to February polar night reigns over Svalbard. Nevertheless, the archipelago does not become a "country of eternal darkness" at this time. In clear weather, it is illuminated by the moon.
As the great polar explorer Fridtjof Nansen wrote, “instead of the sun, the delightful radiance of the moon remains: it circles the sky day and night ...”. Moonlight is reflected by myriads of snow and ice crystals and allows not only to move freely without a lantern, but also to distinguish distant mountains. It is especially bright during the full moon.

And in December-January, in frosty weather, auroras blaze in the sky. Against the backdrop of a flaming sky, light patterns of the most fantastic kind appear, continuously changing their shape and color. You can stand for hours, forgetting to put on your hat, in the bitter cold, unable to take your eyes off the amazing play of colors in the cold sky. Words are powerless to describe this truly grandiose spectacle. What a pity that at this time there are no tourists on the islands! Because of the mere opportunity to admire the celestial flashes, it would be worth coming to Svalbard in winter.

I have often had the opportunity to communicate with people who have visited this distant archipelago. And all of them could not forget its severe beauty, dazzling white mountain peaks and the blue surface of the fjords, the deafening hubbub of bird colonies and the modest charm of tundra flowers, the greenish-transparent walls of coastal glacial cliffs and the colors of the northern lights ...
And when the winterers, returning to their native land, set sail from the shore, they traditionally throw old boots into the water from the board of the ship - as a sign that someday they will return to this icy, but beautiful land.

Northeast Land

Northeast Land is an uninhabited island in the Svalbard archipelago, in the Arctic Ocean. Refers to the territory of Norway. It occupies an area of ​​14.5 thousand square kilometers.

The surface of the island is a plateau, up to 637 meters high. Of the entire surface of the island, 11,135 square kilometers are occupied by glaciers. Mosses and lichens grow in ice-free areas. There are a significant number of fjords on the northern coast of the Northeast Land.

On one of the islands of the Svalbard archipelago in the village of Longyearbyen, a grain storage was built, which was called the second "Noah's Ark".

The repository is a huge structure in the form of an underground 120-meter tunnel. It stores all kinds of grain. Every country in the world has its own section. An unusual grain bank was created to keep seeds safe in case of a global catastrophe (nuclear war, global warming, asteroid impact, etc.).

The island was chosen for the construction of the “ark” not by chance: its remoteness from the mainland, geological stability, rocks and low ambient temperature (minus 18⁰ C) can serve as a natural refrigerator. Under such conditions, the seeds of cereals and legumes will be stored for thousands of years.

Norway, about Svalbard, Longyearbyen

Mount Pyramid

The mountain is located near the village of the same name in the former USSR, and later Russia, and for a long time served as one of the richest coal mines in fossils. In 1998, the mine was closed and the village was evicted to the mainland. Today, this village resembles an abandoned lunar station, and in the period from 1956 to 1996. it was a fairly advanced mining village with a developed infrastructure and capital buildings quite suitable for northern conditions, suitable for housing and leisure.

Now the territory of the village of Pyramiden belongs to Norway. The Norwegians quickly adapted it to tourist facility and today they bring tourists here for quite a lot of money. But despite this, much more restoration work is required in the village. Today only 17 people live here.

The tourist season here lasts throughout the day from March to August, but even in summer the air temperature does not exceed 4-5°C. It is especially interesting and beautiful here in the spring, when there is still snow and you can ski. The movement of tourists is controlled by local authorities with a mandatory log entry and regular access to communication via satellite phone.

The mountain and the village are located in the southeastern part of the island of Svalbard, Norway

Arctic Ocean

The Arctic Ocean is one of the smallest oceans on Earth. It is located in the northern hemisphere of the earth between North America and Eurasia. The ocean covers a total area of ​​14.75 million square kilometers. Average depth ocean is 1.225 meters, and the largest - 5.527 meters in the Grenada Sea. The volume of water in the ocean is 18.07 million square kilometers.

Visually, the ocean can be divided into three natural areas: the Arctic Basin, the North European Basin, and the Canadian Basin. Due to the favorable geographical position in the central part of the ocean, the ice cover remains intact throughout the year, while being in a mobile state. Given that the water in the ocean is very cold, only cold-resistant marine life can live here - such as whales, penguins, fur seals and many others.

Eastfjord

Indre Viidefjorden is a Norwegian national park located on the territory of the central-northern part of the island of Western Svalbard. It covers the southern tip of Vijdefjord, of which Austfjorden is the eastern branch.

Its feature is that it literally crashes into the island. It is a narrow, winding sea bay with rocky shores. Rocks rising from the water, covered with dense vegetation, and snowy mountain peaks - all this is Austfjorden. Its dimensions are 32 kilometers long and 4-6 kilometers wide. Geographically, the Eastfjord begins on the western side of Cape Peter Mann.

Simple tourist routes often pass through it, the purpose of which is to climb one of the peaks of the island. Both professionals and beginners who do not have special climbing skills take part in them.

The fjord is located in national park Indre Wijdefjorden in Svalbard

Abandoned mining village Pyramiden

Pyramiden is an abandoned Soviet mining village located on the island of Svalbard in Norway. The settlement was built in the second half of the twentieth century near the northernmost coal mine in the world. Its population reached a thousand people. But in the nineties, coal production fell sharply and the village was mothballed.

Now the Pyramid is a ghost village that has preserved not only buildings, but also a lot of personal belongings of its inhabitants, left here as if in a hurry. The territory of the village is open to the public, but it is not recommended to enter its buildings without an escort - in order to avoid accidents. The pyramid is still the record holder for many of the northernmost things in the world - among such records are a monument to Lenin, a pool and even a piano.

The unusual disturbing and sad atmosphere of an abandoned city, as well as an unusual beautiful nature, surrounding the village, in the summer attracts tourists here. Especially for them, a small hotel is arranged in the village and a guide works.

Prince Carl Island

Prince Karl Island is a picturesque natural attraction in Norway, which is part of the Forlande National Park. The island is home to a large number of polar bears.

On the island, from north to south, there is a chain of Grampian mountains with pointed peaks. The highest point on the island is Mount Monaco at 1,084 meters. Among the mountains you can also find plains - the Forlanneletta Plain. At the foot of the mountains are several freshwater lakes and other salt water bodies. 17 percent of the island's area is covered by glaciers, most of which descend into the Vorlannsundet Strait.

The land of King Charles was found by a Moscow expedition from the highest point on the island of Barents.

Forlandet National Park, Svalbard

Barentsburg ***

Barentsburg is a mining town on the Norwegian island of West Svalbard, in the archipelago Svalbard. It was named after the Dutch navigator V. Barents. Now more than 300 Russians and Ukrainians live and work in this settlement.

The village is isolated, with autonomous life support. The industrial and social complex of Barentsburg includes a mine, a thermal power plant, a hospital, a kindergarten and other facilities. The residential settlement, housing and communal and auxiliary facilities are maintained by the Arktikugol company. Coal mined in the mine is used for the village's own needs, and is also exported. For tourists, a hotel with a bar and a gift shop is open in the village.

Here you can visit the museum "Pomor", founded in 1995. The museum, which tells about the history of the Spitsbergen archipelago from ancient times to the present day, has a geological exposition containing more than 33 types of minerals and rocks, the age of which ranges from 1-2 billion years to 5-6 thousand years.

West Spitsbergen, Barentsburg

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SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:
Team Nomads
"Country of mountains and glaciers" E. M. Singer.
http://vivovoco.astronet.ru/
Shokalsky Yu. M., - Spitsbergen // Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron: In 86 volumes (82 volumes and 4 additional). - St. Petersburg, 1890-1907.
Natalya Kozlova. Island of arrested ships // Russian newspaper: newspaper. - 2005. - No. 3904.
Zinger E.M. Country of mountains and glaciers // Nature: journal. - 1997. - No. 8.
Savatyugin L. M., Dorozhkina M. V. The Svalbard archipelago: Russian names and names. - St. Petersburg: Nauka, 2009. - 272 p.
Zinger E.M. Svalbard is an ice archipelago. — M.: Penta, 2006. — 302 p.
Chernyshev F.N. Russian expedition to Svalbard. — Peace of God. - 1901. - 261 p.
Kokin O. V. Relief and deposits of marginal zones of glaciers in Western Spitsbergen.
Starkov VF Essays on the history of the development of the Arctic. Volume 1: Svalbard / Ed. dr ist. Sciences A. K. Stanyukovich; Reviewers: Dr. ist. Sciences V. P. Darkevich, Ph.D. ist. Sciences V. I. Zavyalov. Institute of Archeology RAS. - Ed. 2nd. — M.: Scientific world, 2009. — 96 p. - 300 copies. - ISBN 978-5-91522-101-6.
Svalbard - article from the Great Soviet Encyclopedia (3rd edition)
Svalbard // Small Encyclopedic Dictionary of Brockhaus and Efron: In 4 volumes. - St. Petersburg, 1907-1909.
Sysselmannen.no - Website of the Governor of Svalbard
The history of one city: Longyearbyen (Svalbard) on the "Echo of Moscow"
Russian site - Svalbard.Ru
http://www.photosight.ru/
photo I.Mikhailov, V.Balyakin, A.Vedernikov, A.Nasyrov, Mike Raifman, I.Litvak

There may be additional information. Note: Otherwise, it may be deleted."

Grumant- Russian (Pomor) name of the Svalbard archipelago. The earliest settlements of Russian hunters on Svalbard date back to the 16th century.

Svalbard is an arctic archipelago in the western part of the Arctic Ocean. It includes more than a thousand islands and the waters of the Greenland and Barents Seas. The area of ​​the archipelago is 63 thousand km2. According to the Treaty of Paris, since August 14, the Svalbard archipelago has been under the limited sovereignty of the Kingdom of Norway and has been separated into a separate administrative unit under the control of the governor. Natural resources- oil, gas, coal, polymetallic ores, barites, gold, quartz, marble, gypsum, jasper. In the surrounding water area there are large stocks of valuable fish species, shrimps, algae and seafood. The basis of the economy is coal mining (1.5 million tons per year), exploration and scientific activities, as well as tourism. The archipelago has the seaports of Barentsburg, Pyramiden (Russia), Longyearbyen, Sveagruva, Ny-Ålesund (Norway), international Airport Longyearbyen. 1,600 people permanently live on the archipelago (Russian and Norwegian miners, as well as several dozen scientists from different countries).

The beginning of the economic development of the Svalbard archipelago, according to modern archaeological research, dates back to the middle of the 16th century. It was the result of the activities of the inhabitants of the Russian North - the Pomors, who launched a variety of fishing on its shores, mainly the extraction of walrus.

In a house on the shore of the lagoon, about a dozen and a half kilometers from Stabbelva, they found a text carved on a wooden object: “Having passed away myrininn from the city” (“A resident of the city died”). This five-wall Pomors laid down even earlier, in 1552. In Belsund Bay, they read the inscription carved on a whale vertebra and the name "Ondrej". Many successes awaited researchers in Russekaila Bay, where the “patriarch” of Spitsbergen Ivan Starostin lived for about forty years: nineteen inscriptions were found during excavations, and a third of them date back to the 16th century, the rest are later.

In total, Soviet archaeological expeditions have identified about a hundred Pomeranian settlements between 78 and 80 degrees north latitude. The settlements were located along the entire coast, ten to fourteen kilometers from one another, and included residential, utility and utility rooms, places of worship, navigation signs in the form of crosses.

According to V. Yu. Vize, compiled on the basis of various historical sources, there were a total of 39 ancient Russian settlements on Svalbard.

From to the archipelago, an expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences worked, which discovered many Russian settlements, burials and large Pomeranian crosses, household items and inscriptions in Russian. So, on the coast of the island of Western Spitsbergen, the remains of a Russian house near the Stabbalva River were found, cut down in the city. 6 out of 19 found inscriptions date back to the 16th century.

There is a list of Pomors-Grumantlans and Novaya Zemlya, called up for naval service in 1714 by personal decree of Peter I, who later formed the backbone of the Baltic sailors and won more than one battle.

In the 17th century, Russian crafts on Svalbard expanded. This was facilitated by the abundance of fish and animals, the development of the sea route, and to some extent an established life. Although the icy desert was reluctant to let aliens into their possessions.

In 1743, Aleksey Khimkov, a feeder from Mezen, with his twelve-year-old son Ivan and comrades Stepan Sharapov and Fyodor Verigin, came to Edge Island (the Pomors called it Little Berun) on a regular flight. They did not save their boat, they tore it from the shore and destroyed the raging sea. The way home was cut off. But the Pomors did not lose heart. They adapted without special equipment to get food, to heat the shelter, and when, after six years and three months of forced captivity, they were removed by another ship, they loaded a large amount of the furs they had obtained, a lot of meat on board.

Since 1747, the Metropolitan College of Commerce regularly requested information from its Arkhangelsk office about the fishing on the Grumant and its intensity.

Vasily Dorofeev Lomonosov, the father of the outstanding figure of Russian science M.V. Lomonosov, repeatedly wintered on Svalbard. The great Russian scientist subsequently organized on Svalbard in 1765-1766. two marine scientific expeditions under the leadership of V. Ya. Chichagov. The “patriarch” of Svalbard is called the industrialist Ivan Starostin, who spent a total of about 36 years on the island.

Mikhail Lomonosov, however, never learned the results of the first Russian scientific expedition, led by Vasily Yakovlevich Chichagov, since it went to sea a few days after Lomonosov's death. Chichagov conducted serious research on Grumant, where a special base had been created a year before, and even tried to go further - he reached 80 degrees 26 minutes north latitude. The following year, he climbed even higher by four minutes.

The problem of Svalbard forced the Russian government to take measures to protect its interests in the archipelago. The Russians believed that Grumant had been discovered by the Russian Pomors long before the Barents. Sidorov's activities in the 1870s contributed to the strengthening of this point of view in public opinion, and although the government accepted the status of Spitsbergen "terra nulius", that is, "no man's land", in the Russian press of the first decade of the 20th century. the archipelago was considered a "lost Russian possession" that needed to be returned.

The Russian authorities are beginning to register the ships that sailed to Grumant, issuing "pass tickets". Thanks to these statistics, we know today that at the end of the last century, seven to ten ships with 120-150 industrialists went to Grumant annually from Arkhangelsk alone. Camps arose on Bear Island, and on Grumant the number of Russian winterers reaches two thousand.

No one doubted Russia's priority for Grumant. But the more far-sighted Russian people, in order to avoid future complications with rights, suggested that the tsarist government populate the archipelago with a permanent population. The archives have preserved the petitions of Pomor Chumakov (city), merchant Antonov (city), ensign Frolov (city). Starostins made such requests many times. However, no one in the capital was seriously disturbed by their worries.

At the end of the 50s of the 19th century, Russian crafts in the archipelago gradually fell into disrepair. In 1854, during the Crimean War (- years), the English corvette "Miranda" ravaged the city of Kola - one of the most important Pomeranian centers.

In the city of Russia, a meteorological observatory was founded on Svalbard, and a year later the icebreaker Yermak set off for that area.

As a result of the indecision and laziness of the kings, the archipelago, rich in marine resources and coal, went to Norway, although they began to develop the archipelago later than the Russians: it was only in 1793 that the first Norwegian fishing vessel sailed from Tromso to Svalbard, and even then half with a Russian crew, and it only reached Bear Island.

In fact, in the last third of the 19th century, the Norwegians almost completely ruled in " eastern ice". The growth of Norwegian expansion was also facilitated by the lack of means of protection and protection of the northern coast of Russia from the encroachments of foreigners, caused by the abolition of the Arkhangelsk military port and the White Sea flotilla in the city.

In 1871, the Swedish-Norwegian envoy to Russia Biorstiern addressed the Foreign Ministry of our country with a note in which he announced that Sweden and Norway, united at that time by a union, intended to annex Svalbard to their possessions. But the tsarist government did not take a serious step this time to secure Russia's rights over Svalbard. On the contrary, it offered the status of "no man's land" and thereby actually opened the way to the archipelago for other countries.

The merit of the highest, state importance belongs to a few, but hardy Pomors. Mastering the North, they made it Russian. This is our story today.

What kind of ethnonym is this?

As usual, you should start with etymology. "Pomors" is an ethnonym, that is, the naming of the inhabitants of a certain area, which is correlated with one or another toponym. Other examples are Muscovite, Tula.

In the case of Pomors, there is no need to puzzle over where the name came from. Most likely, from the name of the western coast of the White Sea, where there is a so-called. Pomeranian shores. It is known that most of the Pomors are Orthodox, and the language is Russian with an original dialect and a characteristic pronunciation of the letter "o".

Pomors began to be called Russian population settled near the White Sea.

Slavic colonization of the north

Historians state that the name "pomor" arose no later than the 12th century. During the XIV-XV centuries. it spread south and east from the western coast of the White Sea. Then the "no man's" lands of Pomorie were taken under guardianship by the Novgorod Veche Republic. The Slovenes of Ilmen (their capital, as you know, was Novgorod the Great) called these lands Zavolochie, or Dvina land. In the "Tale of Bygone Years" there are references to the pre-Russian population of Zavolochye: "Perm, Merya, Murom, Mordvins, Pechera, Yam, Ugra." From the names of the tribes it follows that they are of Finno-Ugric origin.

It is believed that the Slavic colonization of the North began in the 9th-11th centuries. There was a reason for this: the northern region turned out to be rich in furs, sea animals, fish and birds. Archaeological finds and place names record traces of the habitation of both the Slavs and the Finno-Ugric peoples.

The anthropological type of Pomors is dominated by Slavic, but there are also Finno-Ugric features. Somewhat later, immigrants from the Vladimir-Rostov-Suzdal lands, and even later the Vikings, mostly Norwegians, made their contribution to the formation of the Pomor community.

Pomors were formed on a Slavic basis, but also include other ethno-cultural elements.

What and how they traded

By the 16th century we can definitely say that the Pomors were formed as an ethnographic entity. The Pomors were engaged in a specific hunting and hunting economy. Winter hunting began in February and continued until the end of March. In the gathering places of industrialists, special fishing huts were built for one or two boats (7-15 people).

In the 17th century Pomors were tightly integrated into the system of the All-Russian internal market as a marine fishing and animal trade region. Pomors developed barter trade and did business not only with Russians, but also with Norwegians. In exchange for the gifts of the north, they received much-needed bread.

Contacts with the natives took place without any particular conflicts: there was more than enough space for fishing, and there were few reasons for enmity. Slavic coast-dwellers organically interspersed in the area of ​​​​settlement of various tribes, guarded the North.

The northerners got a lot of fish and furs “for export”, and this was how they lived in difficult natural and climatic conditions.

How the North was mastered and not only it

After the victory of Ivan III over the Novgorodians on the river. Shelon (July 1471) Pomeranian lands became part of the Muscovite state. During the period of centralization of the Russian state, the processes of colonization of the North received new, additional impulses. Gradually, the task of developing these lands acquires national importance.

In the XVII-XVIII centuries. the passionary activity of the Pomors reaches its highest peak. By this time, the Pomors had everything necessary for long trips to the Arctic Ocean. Northerners are exploring new territories. Among them are Northern Siberia, Novaya Zemlya and Svalbard.

The sea routes that later became famous were laid. "The move to the German end" went along the coast of the Kola and Scandinavian peninsulas. "Mangazeya passage" - from the mouth of the Taz River in northwestern Siberia, and the "Yenisei passage" - to the mouth of the river. Yenisei. "Novozemelny move" - ​​to the islands of Novaya Zemlya, and "Grumland move" to the Svalbard archipelago. The opening of these routes allowed the Pomors not only to establish trade in sable and arctic fox furs, but also to expand the borders of the Russian state.

By the middle of the XVIII century. Pomors helped Russia to master the Aleutian Islands and Alaska. Since 1803, people from Pomorie have been mastering the West coast of North America, which, at that time, was not inhabited by the Anglo-Saxons and other Europeans. In 1812, the Pomeranian merchant Ivan Kuskov founded Fort Ross, which became the first European settlement in Northern California (80 km from modern San Francisco).

Pomors made a significant contribution to the expansion of the territory and borders of the Russian Empire.

Ethnos or sub-ethnos?

Foreigners who visited Pomorie gave the following characteristics to the locals: reserved, hospitable, trusting, hardworking, laconic. Staying away from the main area of ​​​​residence of Russians formed distinctive features among the Pomors. They manifested themselves in everyday life, in arts and crafts, and in the dialect.

But to say that the Pomors are not Russians, but an independent ethnic group, is still probably impossible. Over the centuries of their difficult activity, the Pomors acquired special features, but remained part of the Russian ethnos.

During the All-Russian census of 2002, 6571 people called themselves Pomors. Among them was the then governor of the Arkhangelsk region - Anatoly Efremov. According to the 2010 census, 3113 people were identified as Pomors. The reduction is caused by the loss of Pomor identity by a significant part of the population of the Arkhangelsk and Murmansk regions.

Although even now there are activists who advocate the recognition of the Pomors as a separate people, but their number is small. At the same time, the very word "pomor" became the brand of the Arkhangelsk region. The inhabitants of the Russian North take care of him with special warmth. Without it, in the North, as you know, one cannot survive.

Literature:

Lomakin V. A series of lectures “Pomorye and Pomors: history and modernity. 2009.

Mikhaleva A.V. Ethnocultural dimension of regional positioning Arkhangelsk region// Bulletin of the Perm University. Series: Political Science. 2013. No. 4.

Ancient legends and chronicles told people that the path to the Far North was laid by sailors for hundreds of years. Probably, light ships of the Normans were in the waters of the "Cold Sea" about 1000 years ago. But reliable information about this has not been preserved. Russian chronicles say that hundreds of years ago, Pomors, settlers on the shores of the White Sea and the Kola Peninsula from Novgorod, walked along the harsh waters of this sea. Courageous, free from the yoke of serfdom, Novgorod peasants united in squads and went to unknown lands for precious furs, to fish and sea animals.

The tenacious hands of the boyars and the sovereign's servants did not reach the distant shores of the White Sea. Ordinary people went to the North not only from the lands of Veliky Novgorod. Peasants from the central and northwestern regions of the country fled here to get rid of the master's oppression, unbearable extortions and debt bondage.

In the XII-XV centuries. Novgorodians explored and mastered the coast of the Kola Peninsula, the shores of the White Sea. They built strong ships and traveled far from their villages on the seas of the Arctic.

Pomors discovered the islands of Novaya Zemlya, Kolguev, Medvezhiy, Svalbard (then this archipelago was called Grumant's Land).

Often the brave coast-dwellers had to stand up to defend the lands they had mastered, which foreigners began to covet.

The Russian North has long been a lively trading place, where foreign merchants from Western Europe flocked. They bought here precious furs, fat and skins of marine animals, walrus tusks and other goods that were delivered from Western Siberia by land, through the polar Urals, and by sea.

In voyages to the east along the "Arctic Sea", Western European travelers, as a rule, used the help of Russian sailors. The first Russian pilots appeared on the Neva and Volkhov during the time of Veliky Novgorod.

They were then called ship leaders ("leaders"). In the North, in Pomorye, there was even a special horse-drawn trade and artels of ship-leaders.

Russian sailors went far into the depths of the seas. On the islands of the Arctic, researchers many times found the remains of Russian Pomeranian winter quarters and their fishing equipment. Known to explorers of the Russian North is the Pomor Ivan Starostin, who settled for many years on Grumant (Svalbard). It was mastered by the Russians on Medvezhiy Island. Foreigners even called its northern coast "the Russian coast".

Russian coast-dwellers laid the foundation for a new type of navigation - ice. They managed to explore not only the European North, but also a significant part of the Asian coast.

The study of the ships of the ancient Novgorodians and Pomors, who settled in the North, showed what abilities and ingenuity the first Russian Arctic sailors possessed.

Russian sea boat of the 16th century. could take on board 200 tons of cargo. It was a three-masted deck ship with straight sails. Smaller boats, with a deck and two masts, were usually intended for navigation on the White Sea. Pomors sailed on ships of other types. The most ancient ship is the kochmara, or koch, a three-masted deck vessel. By design, the koch is very similar to the boat, only it is smaller in size. Pomors and simpler types of ships were built: ranshins, augers and karbas.

On some types of ships, the Pomors attached the skin to the ship's hull with the help of juniper roots. In some cases, northern shipbuilders preferred a wick to iron nails, as they were convinced by experience that it was more reliable than iron. Sheathing sewn with vice was more watertight than that fastened with iron nails. When sailing in the ice, the ship's hull loosened and leaked in places where there were nails. In addition, the nails quickly rusted and destroyed the skin. With a wooden fastening, the vice, swelling, almost did not let water through at all. Sheathing boards, sewn to the frame of the ship in a special way, held tight.

In addition to juniper, a young thin spruce up to one and a half meters high served as a material for wooden "threads". The trunks of such Christmas trees were cleaned of branches, twisted and dried. They were steamed before use. With such "threads" the lodya was sewn. The master's set of tools usually consisted of an ax, a saw, a drill, a level and a sazhen, broken into arshins and vershoks. Ships were built on the banks of the river, near the customer's house. Immediately with a pole on the sand or in a hut with chalk on the floor, the master made a drawing and made the necessary calculations. First, the frame of the vessel was built, which was then sheathed with boards outside and inside. Then they put and fastened high straight masts and laid the deck.

A large ship - a lodya - was built by an artel of carpenters in one winter.

By decree of Ivan the Terrible for the construction of ships on the White Sea at Solovetsky Monastery the first large shipyards and even a dry dock were built.

In ancient times, sails on Pomeranian ships were sometimes made of suede - deer skin treated with the fat of a sea animal. Sea hare skin was used for belt gear.

The boats had a flat wide bottom and a small draft, so when sailing in the ice to "unprecedented lands" they did not need special harbors in order to hide from the storm or spend the winter. Sometimes Pomors had to pull their boats onto the ice or onto the shore. With all these advantages, Pomeranian ships also had their drawbacks: they were worse than keel ships, they obeyed the helm, especially in waves.

Sailing the Arctic Ocean with its harsh climate, heaps of ice and unknown currents was a good school for sailors. Hardy and courageous, not afraid of hard frosts and strong winds, Pomors boldly embarked on long voyages along the stormy waves of the ocean on their small wooden ships.

In the daily struggle with the elements, the Pomors have studied the "Cold Sea" well. They knew that the magnitude of the ebb and flow is related to the position of the Moon in the sky, and they figuratively called the tidal phenomena "the sighs of the sea-ocean."

“His chest is wide, powerful,” they said, “when he sighs, he lifts his chest, then the water has arrived: the tide means. Exhale - the water leaves: the ebb comes. The ocean-father does not breathe often: he inhales twice, exhales twice - the day will pass.

The Pomors knew the compass, which they called the queen. They have long recognized time by the sun and stars.

The winds, depending on the direction, they also called in their own way. "Midnight", for example, was called the northeast wind; "sholonnik" - the wind blowing from the southwest; "coastal" - northwest wind; "Luncher" - southeast. Russian sailors studied not only winds, but also currents, ebbs and flows, and the state of the ice.

They knew well and used local remedies against scurvy: cloudberry, spoon grass, raw meat and warm blood of animals. Northern sailors since ancient times, they had handwritten maps-drawings and handwritten directions, which briefly described the sea coast, indicated profitable and safe routes and the best time for sailing ships.

The oldest handwritten sailing directions had such headings: "Charter as a Vessel to Drive", "Ship Progress of the Russian Ocean-Sea", "Progress of the Grumanlandskaya".

Sailing along the White Sea and the Arctic Ocean developed dexterity, unique methods of controlling a ship. Pomors improved their experience and passed it on from generation to generation. If, for example, the wind strongly heeled the boat, threatening to instantly capsize it, the Pomor threw a sharp ax or knife into the sail, and then the wind tore the sail to shreds, and the boat leveled off.

Northern sailors have long used blubber as a means of calming unrest. On the ships of the Pomors, there were always several barrels of seal or seal oil in stock.

In 1771, the well-known Russian academician I. I. Lepekhin wrote about it this way: “This remedy consists in blubber fat, which is poured into the sea during the splashing of the ship, or sacks filled with it are let near the ship. This tool has been known to our Pomeranians since ancient times and for many years before they were in use, rather than European departments about this tool as some important discovery were published. Northern sailors-Pomors were explorers of the Arctic Ocean. Fearlessly setting sail on the unknown harsh seas, they made valuable geographical discoveries.

IN I remember April 23, 1981, Moscow, Institute of Archeology of the USSR Academy of Sciences. With caution, like a bare live wire, I hold a slide in my fingers, which depicts a board charred by time, on which, as if with a knife of Alexei Ivanovich Inkov, is carved about their weak spirit artel worker: Head of the Spitsbergen archaeological expedition, candidate of historical sciences VF Starkov makes a report on the results of the first three field seasons.

Now more than eighty monuments are known, - he says. - The northernmost of the excavated by us is located on the Brögger Peninsula, on the shores of the Kongsfjord Bay, it is under 79 degrees north latitude, four kilometers from the village of Ny-Ålesund. During its excavations, more than seven hundred objects made of metal, leather, wood, clay, birch bark were found. Pomeranian graves, crosses and houses are also higher, under the 80th degree. And in the bay of Resherzh, on the north coast of Belsund, the remains of four housing and utility complexes were identified and studied, which included nine living quarters, six cold cages and a bathhouse. This is the largest Russian settlement known so far in Western Svalbard. It is also important to conclude that the habitation of the Pomors in Svalbard was of a regular and long-term nature and that the main form of habitation of the Pomors was a village, and not a single winter hut.

Almost two and a half centuries separate us today from those times. But the thought does not get tired of reaching out, often collecting facts bit by bit, in the darkness of centuries, wanting to see the life there clearly and correctly.

Stored in the Department of Manuscripts of the State Public Library named after M.E. Saltykov-Shchedrin in Leningrad Collection of Novgorod and Dvina charters of the 15th century. And there is in it the "act" of Prince Andrei of Novgorod - a message to the people of the Dvina and the Cold (White) Sea. The letter was written by statute. The letters are straight, powerful, and they bring us from seven hundred years ago the tension of life big and hot.

Prince Andrey Alexandrovich sent three bands of his from Novgorod with the ataman Andrei Krititsky “to the sea to the oshan” and orders the Pomors to give them “food and carts, according to the duty, from the graveyards.” And at the end of the letter, he also noted for the chieftains: “as it went, under my father and under my brother, do not go to the Terek side of the Nougorod, and now do not go.”

And the Terek side is the Kola Peninsula. And the princely gangs of Novgorodians were not ordered to go there either for fishing or for quitrent, because in this XIII century it was still impossible to disturb the Terek settlers, because from time immemorial the sovereigns encouraged bold explorers who expanded and mastered the boundaries of princely possessions, encouraged by liberating them from state hardships and did not limit their freedom in any way. For the time being, of course.

However, on the same Studen sea, on Solovki, by 1429, the monks were already driving simple Pomors by force and threats “from this island, God destined for the habitation of monastics,” as Archimandrite Dositheus puts it. So, thirty years later, “Solovki from the sea of ​​the ocean” was assigned to the monks by the granted Novgorod letter, and in 1471, the villages of the Tersky coast were already indicated in the list of the Dvina lands: Karela Varzugskaya and Umba.

A hundred years pass - and the tsarist, boyar guardians of power, no less than monasteries, impudent and armed, are already pulling their hands here.

And again they break away from their homes, and people go into the unknown, to the North, to the sea, to the islands, where it is freer for the soul and for fishing; moreover, not all kinds of people go, but strong in spirit, greedy both for labor and for will, and deeply peaceful, not out of cowardice, but by nature. Such are the pomors.

In the letter of Grand Duke Ivan Vasilievich dated December 18, 1546, we learn that the people of Kargopol and the district volosts buy salt ... "from the Pomortsy by the sea." And this is probably the first written evidence of such a definition.

And life in the Russian North by the middle of the 16th century actually reaches its peak.

Take the diaries and testimony of Stephen and William Barrow. These English navigators, who met with Pomors in 1557, tell, for example, that the Mezens of the White Sea, as one, went to the Pechora in June "to catch salmon and walruses" and turned out to be amazing sailors. They deftly brought the English ship out of the disastrous fog, another time their twenty-oared karbas, going downwind, outstripped the English leading ship and from time to time waited for the English, lowering their sails. It turned out that the Pomors were amazingly wise in predicting the weather and taking into account tidal and ebb currents. On Kigor (Peninsula Rybachy) on the day of St. Peter, that is, on June 29, many people gathered for the Russians “on the occasion of bargaining”: both Karelians, and Lapps (Saami), and Normans, and Danes, and Dutch - and “their affairs were going fine here”; moreover, at the same time, the Russians spoke to the British about the Big Stone (Urals) and Novaya Zemlya.

From the same English one can also learn some names of simple Pomors of the sixteenth century. These are Fedor and Gavrila from Kola (Murmansk), Kirill from Kolmogory (Kholmogory near Arkhangelsk), feeder Fyodor Tovtygin and a White Sea feeder nicknamed Loshak.

And it is not surprising that in 1576 the Danish king is trying to use the nautical knowledge of one of the Russian feeders - the Pomeranian navigator Pavel Nikitich from Kola. “It became known to us,” writes the king, “that last summer several Trontgey burghers entered into relations with one Russian feeder, Pavel Nishets, who lives in Malmus (Murmansk) and usually sails to Greenland around Bartholomew’s Day (June 11) in Vardø.” Not without reason, then, it was at the same time that the well-known project of the occupation of the Russian state from the north arose. To capture Muscovy and turn it into an imperial province, according to the calculations of one of the nimble Western Europeans, “200 ships well supplied with provisions are enough; 200 pieces of field guns or iron mortars and 100 thousand people; so much is needed not to fight the enemy, but to occupy and hold the whole country.”

The Dutch expeditions, who visited Novaya Zemlya at the end of the 16th century, are striving to hollandize all oral Pomor names on it, especially since there were no outlines of the Russian North on the maps of Muscovy at that time. And it wasn’t because the Russian North did not represent “anything controversial in those years.” And in the fact that the traces of the fishing activities of the Pomors, often encountered by Dutch sailors both on Novaya Zemlya and on Svalbard - processed walrus carcasses and tusks, navigational crosses - are nothing more than traces of Russians, and not Norwegians, someone who, but the Dutch, by the way, no doubt. And they have no doubts, if only because, say, and through the same clerk of the Stroganovs, who fled to Holland, Alferius Brunel, they knew well what - narrow, long, albeit high-speed, but unsuitable for navigation in ice - the boats of the Norwegians and which - short, walnut-shaped, sewn without nails and adapted to ice (even with skids) - Russian boats. So, when the Norwegian fishermen were not going to rise above Jan Mayen, in extreme cases, they were not going to rise above the Bear, the Russian St. into custom.

“In the summer of 7113 (1605) in the city of Samara,” the legend says, “there was a Pomorenin man, named Athanasius, his birth was beyond Solovki on Ust-Kola. And he spoke about many wondrous marvels of the sea, but heard about others. And he traveled by sea on sea vessels for 17 years, and walks in the dark land, and there is darkness, like a dark mountain; From a distance, over the darkness, you can see snowy mountains on a red day.

V. Yu. Vize, citing this legend in the biographical dictionary of Russian polar sailors, notes that the mentioned "dark land is, undoubtedly, either Svalbard or Novaya Zemlya."

It is also interesting that the first cartographic evidence of Russian Pomors in Spitsbergen also falls at this time. The map of Svalbard, the second in a row, but the first in terms of practical value, is a map with the name "New Country, or otherwise Svalbard", published in 1613 in the book of Hessel Gerrits "History of the country with the name Spitsbergen". The author talks about unsuccessful negotiations between Dutch whalers and Russian fishermen regarding the organization of a joint trading partnership and places a map drawn up in the fresh footsteps of his fellow countrymen, on which one can see one of the Pomeranian bays, called by the Dutch "Mouth of the Muscovite".

There is another early cartographic document about the Pomors, but already on an English map of 1625. It shows a Russian ship rushing to the southern tip of Svalbard, where just from that time for a whole century the Pomors were driven out by the British, Dutch, and later by the Danes, Germans, Spaniards, whose expeditions were always richly equipped with cannons and cannonballs.

But here comes the year 1694, when the 22-year-old Tsar Peter I goes to Arkhangelsk, to the Pomors, with a great and daring thought about a military maneuver, with the implementation of which a “window to Europe” will be cut through. True, the Pomors will pay a high price for their identity for the much-needed “window” for Russia, which was then called Petersburg, because the Tsar ordered the Pomeranians to build Pomeranians in Arkhangelsk City instead of their Pomeranian kochmars, ranshins, shnyaks and lodias, powerful military ships on the model of the Dutch.

For eight years, cursing the tsar and his clerks, the Belomorye fulfills the sovereign in a row, and in 1702 a real squadron of the first northern Russian warships (13 ships) goes from Arkhangelsk to Solovki, and from the village of Nyukhcha, on the Pomeranian coast of the White Sea, and to of the village of Povenets, on the shores of Lake Onega, a fantastic flooring is being cut - the legendary Sovereign's road, a clearing road, a walkway, a portage road, along which two ships - "Holy Spirit" and "Courier" will be dragged along in ten days, which then they will go out along the Svir to Ladoga, the ancestral home of the Pomors, in order to return it to Russia together with Shlisselburg forever.

One misfortune - from century to century, the Pomors, although literate, have not been revered by the case of “walking with a pen”; they believe most of all in their living memory and hope in the memory of their sons. There are no words, it's a shame that the royal decree of 1619, which imposed a ban on the conduct of sailing directions, completely discouraged the desire to start a logbook or keep a diary of observations on lodia. And all the moral rules, all the father's covenants and seafaring signs were passed from mouth to mouth.

Only after Peter's reforms did they have nautical books, or Pomeranian sailing directions. But even then, all entries in such handwritten books were kept nameless and in a mean businesslike manner. However, let's try to retell one of the Pomeranian cases.

There was a wind for eight days - the lodia from the Mezen itself went quickly to the coast, which means to the north-west, and the Arctic Ocean comforted the soul.

And on the ninth day the wind changed and turned the ship to the east. Drove, drove and nailed to the bare island, in the "butt to the ice." The Pomors recognized the island: this is Small Oshkuy, that is, Grumant the bear turned out to be. It was then that the greasy ice moved and swaddled them, and soon the beetle began.

They see the Pomors: it’s a serious matter, it’s stinging and squeezing - you need to prepare for the worst, maybe you’ll have to spend the winter. The feeder remembered that there was a camp somewhere here, and decided to check.

The four of us went: the feeder Alexei Inkov himself and with him three rank-and-file soldiers - Khrisanf Inkov, Stepan Sharapov and Fyodor Verigin.

Walk a mile to the shore. And the ice cracks - as if someone is squeezing it in a vise - from time to time, like from a cannon, it sighs and swells, and crawls on top of each other, and then it swells - and a thick ice floe sticks out, as if alive, rises into a ropak.

In order to go faster and not to drown from gravity, the Pomors took little cargo. In total, there was one gun, a horn with gunpowder three charges per brother, the same number of bullets, an ax, a bowler hat, a knife, a bag of flour - five pounds per person, a fire with tinder, a bubble of tobacco and a pipe in a wooden smoking room. And the clothes are all the same that they are wearing.

Finally got there. They see: zaleda is a coastal land that lies under the ice. From here to the camp hut, as it turned out, was less than half a verst of everything. They found a machine. They flooded the clay oven without a chimney. The smoke spread along the ceiling, curls, sways, swells up to the top of the window, pours into a square black cloud, but does not fall below - it flows into the crack of the window. The house warmed up, and the Pomors decided to spend the night in it.

At dawn, as the wind calmed down, the coast-dwellers hurried to their own - en naked around, the wind dragged, as it is, both the ice and the boat with it into the ocean.

It became hard on the soul of St. John's wort; stand like a pillar, numb. Finally, the feeder Aleksei Inkov moved his beard, looked around the golomyan ocean and said contritely:
- Eco sighed father! Grumanlanka (lodiya. - Auth.) Duck took ours. And where are you, our other comrades? Have you accepted death?
(And so it happened: eleven, all that remained in the lodia, all drowned.)

Suddenly Alexei Inkov hurried up and shouted:
- Don't be shy! Tease the wind!

And he whistled loudly. And that’s all: Chrysanthus, and Stepan, and Fyodor followed him with a hoot-kali and whistled! ..

However, the wind did not go back and did not drive their Grummanlanka, their native Pomeranian lodia.

Then the Pomors ceased, in their expression, to tie the wind, that is, to pray to it. “He doesn’t want to know, Nikola, the god of the sea, accept us,” they said. They said something, and looked at the bald bulge of the sea for a long time.

But you have to live. And the feeder said a word:
- We are all equal here now, and turn ours, robyatki, equal.

And went on to get on with artel life.
The Pomors began with the fact that they killed, according to the number of bullets, twelve deer, prepared for the future meat and skins for clothing, and made a bed for each of crumpled deer skin. For the furnace, the fin was dragged from the coast for the first winter and for the next. The hut was straightened and moss was firmly fennelled with dry moss. They made all the necessary tools: they found a ship's board nailed by the sea, thick, with an iron hook, with nails and with a hole; it made a hammer; and from a suitable stone - an anvil; nails - so consider that ready-made tips or fishing hooks, and even each postgalese-needle, they managed to forge from them.

There were ticks from two deer antlers.
They were afraid of only one bear, a bear, looking at a terrible one. Painfully, he was curious and stunned: he would come, growl, thick hair on end; moss is tearing out of the logs, breaking into the hut - as much as a creak and crackling - look, the box will fall apart along the log!

They made two horns out of strong branches, and soon the first, very bold, was raised on them; others have become quieter. And in just six winters, ten were killed.

Then a spruce root turned up, which resembled a bow with its bend. They pulled a vein from the first bear on him with a bowstring - and immediately arrows were needed. Four iron tips were forged and with the veins of the same oshkuy they were tied tightly to spruce sticks from one end, and from the other, feathers from a seagull were screwed. With such arrows, they killed two and a half hundred deer and many blue and white foxes.

The bowstring will whistle, the arrow will hiss, it will yell at the deer - the beast will spin, and it rushed over the mossy hummocks, bucking. And Chrysanthus in pursuit - it is impossible for the arrow to disappear! A kukhlyanka, like a sack, firewood over the head - arms, thighs are bare, on the body there is one short shower jacket and shoe covers on the legs - and that’s it, and young Chrysanth flies, the daring Chrysanth runs no worse than that deer, but better, because he catches up with a deer that is running away , catches up.

The meat was smoked and dried - in the hut, on sticks, under the ceiling. Stocks replenished over the summer. And it went instead of bread. Save the flour. If they cooked it, then occasionally, with deer meat. There was flour on the fire dish. They made a kind of lamp from clay mixed with it, dried it in the sun, wrapped it in shreds from shirts, and scalded the shreds in reindeer fat again with flour, and dried everything again. Zhirovik turned out. The underwear went to the wicks. The fire has not been fired since. And then, after all, there was very little tinder, and how many sweats descended while the so-called live fire was removed: twist a dry maple stick so that the tinder, stuffed around it in a narrow hole in a birch log, would smolder!

So life went on in worries and labors.
I soon began to overcome the illness - scurvy. The Incas fought with it as best they could: they drank deer’s blood for this, and ate raw and frozen meat in pieces, and worked a lot, and slept little, and here’s another thing - in the summer they collected spoon grass, from which they cooked cabbage soup, or so, also raw , ate - as much as possible. “..And that grass grows a quarter of an arshin high and higher, and its leaves are round, the size of the current copper penny, and the stem is thin, but they take it and use those stems with leaves, except for the root, but they don’t take and don’t use the roots ".

Three of the Pomors resisted scurvy gloriously. Only Fedor Verigin was lazy and weak in will. And therefore, in the very first year, he fell into the weakness of scorbutic disease, fell ill and weakened so that he himself did not rise. For a long time, his comrades fussed about him: they gave him a spoonful of decoction, took him out to breathe fresh air, smeared it with bear fat, prayed ... However, all the same, on the fourth spring, Verigin took off his soul, died.

There were also times among the Pomors when neither shoe covers were sewn, nor kukhlyanka, nor leather was rumpled, nor kalgi-skis got along, nothing else to do around the house suddenly you had no need, no desire. Then they did what the soul liked: Chrysanth, for example, carved a box of round bone with a knife, Alexey mokh smoked, about his wife, children, about the mainland, and listened to Stepan as he sang a song with a tear, thinking the same thought:

Grumant is gloomy, I'm sorry!
Let us go to our home!
Living on you is dangerous -
Fear death at all times!
Moats on mounds-slopes.
Fierce animals there in holes.
Snows do not go down -
Grumant is always gray.

And so they lived alone, beyond the seventy-seventh parallel, in the land of midnight, as you know, six winters and years and three months. And they had order and harmony, and there was neither strife nor despair. Not even a flea or a louse started up.

Once (exactly: August 15, 1749) Inkov Alexei was sitting on a hillock, on soft green-red moss; he whittled the knot, thinking: maybe some kind of smoking pipe to make from it; he thought and looked with the envy of a hunter at how white whales flirt.

So he sat, so Pomor, looked at the sea, at the belugas, at the little kulich ... But suddenly, he was frightened that he was tempted, he seemed to be dreaming of a wonderful miracle, a clear sail! And the sea is smooth; the wind is gentle and in the face.

“Something flashes in the eyes,” Inkov said to himself. And my heart was beating harder.

But the bright flap of the sail has grown. And then Alexei picked himself up like a youngster and started to run. At the hut shouts:
- Robes! .. Dear ones! .. Signs with banners ... hurry to mark!
(There is such a naval command: give a sign.)
They got lost right away. “Where are you going?” - they ask.
- Pull the bed, pull the bed duck! .. Yes, fire! Fire with a bowl!

They figured out the fires. Fired up, regretting nothing. Then the deer skins were planted on spears, and quickly let's swing them, and yell that there was enough spirit.

And soon the Russian fishing boat dropped its sails near the Incas.

So they finally returned to Arkhangelsk.
The people wondered. The director of the Kola whaling company, Vernizober, also expressed his amazement. Expressed - and wrote about what happened in St. Petersburg. The following year, the Inkov brothers were summoned to Count Shuvalov. And he ordered to make a book about what had happened. Le Roy, the teacher of the count's children, compiled such a little book in French and German 16 years later. And she went around the whole scientific world of Europe, now surprising the Germans, and the French, and the British, and partly the Russians themselves.

And our glorious coast-dwellers, the Incas, lived like everyone else, and hunted as before, differing, however, from others in that for a long time they could not eat bread in any way - they were swollen from it, but they could not drink any drinks, because got used on their island only to the purest glacial water ...

Now we can say with good reason that Pomors remained on the archipelago for a long time back in the 18th century. And so close I see the opened dark crowns of seaside huts, once assembled here from imported forest, sometimes standing on the whale vertebrae of the foundation, broken nameless ships turn white with the ribs of the frames, such native mosses turn green and glow, sparkle among the brown-black gravel of screes fat glaciers, finally, rickety crosses stand so aching, stretching their stumps of wooden arms from south to north ...

And I don’t know why my heart is beating so hard: either because two polar trains have been lived on Svalbard, or because the voices of ancestors are heard.
- Vadim Fedorovich! I ask Starkov. - You consider the time of active voyages of Pomors in the Svalbard region from the 16th to the 18th centuries. The log cabin of a tree was found in the 16th century. Could there be earlier things too?
- Yes, although we have not yet met earlier monuments, - says Starkov.

The scientist, of course, is very cautious with conclusions. But the search continues, because even Alexander Pushkin said: "Respect for the past is the feature that distinguishes education from savagery."

In order to clarify...

The 50th anniversary of the first end-to-end navigation in one navigation by the Northern Sea Route. This laid the foundation for the systematic development of the most important national economic sea route, the first discoverers of which were, in essence, the Russian coast-dwellers.

Pomorie gave many glorious names to Russia and the whole world. Among them is the great M. V. Lomonosov, the “Kamchatka Ermak” - V. V. Atlasov, the famous Semyon Dezhnev, who became a Yakut Cossack. From here, from their native shores, detachments of brave explorers set off on long hikes, whose exploits and heroic deeds are entered in golden letters in the annals of the great Russians. geographical discoveries XVII-XVIII centuries. The population of Pomorye also played a significant role in the development of Siberia. Pomeranian ship's apprentices and craftsmen, skilled builders of reliable boats, ship carpenters and helmsmen-navigators "established" nautical business under Peter I in the previously unexplored expanses of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk and Pacific Ocean. But the most polar frontiers of Russian sailors have long been the Arctic archipelago - Svalbard and Novaya Zemlya. And quite naturally: everything connected with the study of these lands is of great interest.

The author of the essay spent two winters on Svalbard, fell ill with the North, and since then has been quite successfully studying its fascinating history. In the Geographical Society of the USSR, he made (in Leningrad and Moscow) interesting reports on important clarification the paths of the expedition of V. Barents, which in 1597 discovered Svalbard for Western Europe. The well-known scientist, the author of a kind of Arctic encyclopedia "History of the discovery and development of the Northern Sea Route", Professor M.I. Belov, the developments of Yu. research". And this impression, I think, is not deceptive.

Yu. A. Mansurov suggested back in 1977 that Mezen Alexei Inkov, in a conversation with Academician Le Roy, could call Svalbard and Greenland as Small and Big Oshkuy (Le Roy has Small and Big Brown), but, they say, after as a foreign scientist, not understanding the Zyryan word "oshkuy" (polar bear), demanded clarification, the quick-witted Pomor gave him the Scottish translation "oshkuy" - "brown". It seems that it is time for toponymists, specialists in the origin and interpretation of geographical names, to take up this bold hypothesis.

Not without interest in the essay and the first cartographic evidence of the Russian coast-dwellers in Svalbard. Turning to old maps, the author confirms the ideas that have developed in the scientific world about the wide possibilities of use and the need to increase attention to old cartographic materials. After all, old maps are surprisingly capacious and meaningful sources for the historical geography of our vast Motherland.

L. A. Goldenberg, Doctor of Historical Sciences