Excursion Hoi An - Da Nang - Michon from Nha Trang with the Russian Information Center (day one). The ruins of My Son in Da Nang: the cultural heritage of the capital of the Tyampa Empire. Excursion cost, important clarification and general impression

Michonne (M? S?n) is an imposing temple complex, or rather, its picturesque ruins in the center of Vietnam. Michon is one of the few sights left from the Champa Empire, the temple was spiritual and cultural center from the 4th to the 12th century.

Each building in the Michon complex, despite its disastrous dilapidated state, retains the remnants of its former grandeur and beauty. Graceful architecture, intricate patterns on walls and ceilings, columns and stepped elevations - the temples look even more impressive and beautiful, because they are located in wild jungle. The combination of rough cut stone with untouched wildlife has always been strangely harmonious.

Interesting Facts

  • In 1999, Michon Temple was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • Since the Champa culture was influenced by India, Michon is made in architectural style characteristic of this country.
  • Initially, the sanctuary consisted of 70 buildings, but today only 25 of them have survived.
  • French historians call Michon "Valley of the Royal Dynasty", as most of the towers were erected in honor of the Cham kings.
  • Each tower is symbolic: its base is the world of people, the tower is the world of spirits, and the lotus-shaped upper part is the connection between these two worlds.

How to get there

The ruins are located in the heart of Vietnam, so getting to them will not be easy.

  • Close to temple complex An Hoa domestic airport is located. You can fly from any resort for 30-40 minutes to Duy Xuyen District, Quang Nam province and then get by taxi or rented motorbike to the sights. The trip will only take about 10 minutes.
  • Also, you can get on a rented vehicle from nearby coastal cities.
  • Most often, tourists visit Michon not on their own, but as part of a group tour. It is much more convenient, because you will be taken in a comfortable bus to the ruins, and the guide will tell you many interesting things. historical facts. But in Lately more and more travelers prefer to get to know the country on their own and apart from tourist groups.

Contacts

Address: Duy Ph?, Duy Xuy?n, Qu?ng Nam, Vietnam

White dunes - unique sands in tropical Vietnam The White Dunes are one of the incredible natural attractions of Vietnam. They are endless desert plains covered with milky white and pale yellow fine and clean sand.

The Cambodian shrine of Angkor Wat is known all over the world and tens of thousands of tourists annually come to Cambodia to visit the most famous and largest temple complex in the world.
But not everyone knows about the existence of another temple complex, which is equated in importance in the Hindu religion with the famous Angkor Wat. This is My Son - the temple complex of the Champa Empire, which is located in central Vietnam.
Unfortunately, the temples and towers of Michon, which stood for over 1000 years, were mercilessly destroyed by American bombing during Vietnam War in 1969. 50 out of 70 buildings. Almost completely.
No words...


2. The ruins of the My Son temple complex are located in the jungle of Quang Nam province, about 50 km southeast of Hoi An city.
Lost in the jungle for more than 4 centuries, Michon was accidentally discovered by a group of French archaeologists in 1885.
In 1999, Michon was included in the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List and active research work and work on the arrangement of the complex for the possibility of visiting tourists.

3. Between the IV and XIII centuries. in this area of ​​Vietnam has developed unique civilization, the spiritual foundations of which were closely connected with Hinduism.
Chams, or chams ̣ (cham - in Vietnamese, and the Russian pronunciation varies) were originally Hindus, worshiped Shiva and considered themselves followers of Shaivism, but after the 10th century something changed, and their religion became more like Islam. All their temples and relics found indicate that the Chams were Hindus, later buildings prove the presence of Islam in their life.
Michon was the capital of the Champa empire from the 4th to the 12th centuries.

4. How did Michon come about?
In the 5th century, the famous Cham king Bhadravakman I decided to find a quiet, secluded place in order to build a temple to praise the cult of Hindu deities. The temple complex of Mytho was built in a ravine between the mountains, not far from the village of the same name.

5. About 70 structures were erected - temples and towers dedicated to the gods Shiva and Vishnu, as well as royal tombs. Steles were installed in each tomb, on which were engraved the names, dates of life and achievements of kings and members of the royal court who had the merit of building this temple complex.
Subsequently, Michon also became a place of worship for the Cham royal dynasties.

6. The most famous tower, 24 meters high, was decorated with sculptures of lions and elephants. It was destroyed during the war in 1969 by American bombing. During these bombardments, 50 of the 70 temples described in the first half of the 20th century by archaeologists from French Institute Far East.

7. Michon was a religious shrine until the 13th century, then the state of Champa was completely destroyed by the modern Viet, only small groups remained that still live in the mountains of central and northern Vietnam. Accordingly, these temples were almost forgotten

8. According to some researchers, the Michon sanctuary was the spiritual center of the ancient Cham state, similar to what is now preserved in Cambodia - famous temples Angkor Wat. The local temples and towers are really very similar to Angkor Wat, and the images of Indian gods are clearly visible in the architecture.

9. There are quite a lot of images of gods, they are different, and some of them do not have faces

10. When looking closely at the figures, one gets the feeling that the faces were "extracted" from the walls, replacing them with "dummy"

11. However, this applies not only to absent persons

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14. Many tombs can now be accessed inside

15. Some of them managed to survive even after the American bombing, some were restored

16. There are no identical tombs here. Each one is different from the next.

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18. Now all the temple buildings of Michon are almost completely destroyed, only their foundations remain. The complex consists of several groups of temples, but only one of them has clear features. The towers are clearly guessed in it, and the buildings have been preserved almost in their original form.

19. During the Vietnam War, the US Air Force bombed them mercilessly, because. the American command had suggestions that the headquarters of the Vietnamese partisans was located in Michon.
Most of the surviving figures of dancers and Hindu gods were moved to the Cham Sculpture Museum in Da Nang.

20. Some figures can be seen not only in Da Nang, but also here in My Son.
Several former tombs are equipped in the exposition of figures and sculptures found on the territory of Michon

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24. A lot of different lingams have been preserved in this architecture, including the most important one, as a symbol of childbirth and worship of the god Shiva.
About lingams I am in a separate story

25. There are very few tourists in Michon, which made me incredibly happy as a photographer.
It rarely happens nowadays that you can easily take pictures in such ruins without crowds of people

26. main tower Michonne

27. In addition to the central group of temples, some towers overgrown with vegetation can be found at some distance

28. There are 6 such groups in total.

29. Indian ornaments on the remains of temple walls

30. What else is worth noting is that despite the fact that the site is under the protection of UNESCO, you can walk everywhere. you can touch everything. No fences, fences, prohibitions, etc.

31. It can be seen from some buildings that they were restored - fresh brick is noticeable along with the old masonry

32. But the natural and climatic factors in these parts will quickly do their job and in a dozen or two years the "updates" will become completely invisible

33. Tower after restoration

34. And this is how the Vietnamese restore the destroyed towers. Under a canopy, protecting from rain and wind, carefully and carefully...

The official partner is the company

The complex was built around the fourth century. At the end of the 20th century, it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once upon a time, back in the period of its foundation, this place was the capital of Champa. The inhabitants of this large empire lived not only in the territory of the present ruins, but also far beyond them. The Chams came here from Java and Indonesia, and were the first people to bring Hinduism to Vietnam. A huge temple complex was erected by the Chams in honor of Shiva.

The name "Michon" is translated literally as " beautiful mountain". Everyone who has ever visited the temple was convinced of the appropriateness and full conformity of such a name. The ruins are surrounded by jungle and high mountain ranges. Even from the cracks in the walls of the once majestic building, numerous, sometimes amazing plants grow today.

Naturally, during construction, there were no cracks or chips. To increase the strength of the Chams, they used unique technologies that few people can use at present. The walls of the temple were built of brick, created during low temperatures, therefore, in its structure, it was soft. It was tightly stacked on top of each other, creating thick, strong walls. After the construction of the entire structure, it was burned with fire for a certain amount of time so that the material would hold together and become a single monolith. Surprisingly, bonding materials were never used in the construction.

The locals believed that Shiva knew about their desires, which he always fulfilled. As a rule, the Chams asked for an increase in the birth rate, as they thought that their strength was in numbers. This was due to the fact that the people came from afar and were not sure of their protection, for which more people were needed.

Protecting your territory has always been the overriding goal of the Chams. Many enemies gathered around the empire, among which were even the Chinese. In the 11th century, the Vietnamese nevertheless captured the territory of the Chams, moving them far to the south. However, Michon Temple was under their protection for several more centuries.

For many years, Michonne was hidden in the jungle from prying eyes, so very few people knew about his existence. The situation changed in 1889, when the French found the temple complex. By that time, almost ruins remained from it. However, French researchers immediately realized that they were dealing with an old holy place and soon came to grips with the restoration of the surviving buildings.

In 1969, the Vietnam War began, which brought to naught all the efforts of the restorers. It only took the bombers a week to level the sanctuary. However, some buildings managed to survive, and have survived to this day.

Michon architecture

The Michon complex consists of three areas suitable for tourist purposes. The first zone is represented by the fully preserved main temple, which consists of about ten small buildings. The buildings represent the stages of the development of the empire, the worship of Shiva. Today, this is the most impressive and interesting thing left of the temple.

The second zone suffered the most from the bombs, so there is nothing much to see there yet. In fact, scientists have not even begun to explore this place.

And finally, the third zone. This place is still being restored. But already now you can see the differences in the color, texture and age of the bricks. Compared to the first zone, this part is a modern temple building, made in the same way as during the construction of the Chams.

The history of mankind is such that, simultaneously with the discovery of new historical monuments, the destruction of similar ones takes place. Michon did not escape such a fate.

Tourists

There is a temple in Vietnam not far from another representative world heritage- Hoi An City. You can get here from the nearest town of Da Nang. Entrance to the territory will cost about 7 dollars.


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Seventy kilometers from Da Nang is the ancient temple complex My Son. This is the Hindu temple complex of the Champa Empire, ancient state, which existed on the territory of Vietnam in the VII - XVII centuries. Then the Viet took over. Actually, this is all I know about this state. All that remains of this once great principality is a ruined temple complex. I will tell you about the road to the complex at the end of the post, I will also give some tips there if you suddenly want to see this historical monument, which since 1999 has been included in the World historical heritage UNESCO.


Path leading from the parking lot to the complex.

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Upon arrival, we were immediately taken to the show. It comes here several times a day.

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We did not inspect it to the end, and went to the ruins of temples.

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Once the complex was very large. Of course, not as big as Angkor, but 70 different temples and towers is not enough.

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After the collapse of the empire, the temples were abandoned and they began to gradually collapse. They were finally finished off by the Americans during the Vietnam War.

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Now the temple complex, to be honest, is not impressive. It's too destroyed. And the restoration is going very slowly. But, if you turn on the imagination, then you can imagine the former greatness, looking at the surviving details of the towers.

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In total, several locations with ruins are available in the complex. The most surviving tower is in group A. The photo below shows all that is left of it.

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A few more details

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Mysterious letters

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We were not very lucky that day. According to the stories of experienced people, there are usually either no people at all, or a lot of tourists. Several buses came with us this time. curious tourists. Because of them, it was very difficult to find the angle for the photo.

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Therefore, while tourists interfered with photographing temples, I photographed lizards.

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Although at some points I switched from lizards to more interesting objects:)

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During the Vietnam War, the Americans received information that partisans were hiding in the temple. Therefore, they dealt a massive blow to the area. In front of you is a huge funnel left by an exploding bomb. How did anything survive after such a bombardment?

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We pass through the bridge to another group.

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According to the guide, in front of you is now the most beautiful temple complex. It was the biggest tower. As you can see, not much has survived from its former glory.

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View of central tower from a different angle.

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Something like an altar.

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All stones have an inventory number. Smaller stones are collected in piles and covered with a net - so that tourists do not steal

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The next group of towers. Here the restorers have tried and restored a lot. Despite the fact that original bricks are used during the restoration, it is very clearly visible where the old masonry lies and where the new one lies.

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A little B/W

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Turn on the fantasy again

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To prevent water from washing away the towers, some of them are covered with canopies.

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And then there are a lot of props so that the tower does not fall apart completely.

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Another bomb crater.

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That's actually all. We looked at three groups of towers in an hour and return along a very picturesque path through the jungle to the parking lot.

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The complex is certainly interesting, but clearly not worth it to spend half a day on it. The journey by bus or moped will take about 2 hours one way. I can't say that I was delighted with what I saw. But, if you still decide to watch it, then I advise you not to take it. group tour, and rent a moped for 200,000 VND per day and get to the complex on your own.

It was the road to the complex that made the biggest impression on me. Two hours on a moped Vietnamese roads- it's something! I remembered all my stock of obscene words and expressions and even came up with a few new ones! The Vietnamese have absolutely no idea what the rules are traffic. They obey some of their unwritten laws. For example, whoever is more right has all the advantages on the road. Or overtaking a car, which in turn will overtake another car, this is also normal and it doesn’t matter that at that moment you are driving in your lane. He is a truck, so he has full right crush you if you don't evade.

But with all this, it is very exciting and interesting :) You will spend an unforgettable four hours on the road. Now some tips:

  • Wear long sleeves and loose pants - the Vietnamese sun is merciless!
  • Apply sunscreen to all unprotected areas. Especially watch your hands. Under the constant scorching sun, they will quickly burn out. In a good way, it would be nice to wear light gloves
  • Take a good supply of water with you. A liter per person will be enough
  • Google maps can be trusted.
  • We leave at rush hour. If you leave a little earlier or a little later, you can get there quite calmly and without the adventures that I described above.
  • Refuel full tank. Gas stations will often be found along the way, but it won’t hurt to play it safe. A full tank is enough to drive from Danag to Michon.
  • And most importantly - be careful on the roads!

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30/12/2014

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(that's us) in glorious city Nha Trang of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. But it so happened that our first wintering began with a cultural and entertainment trip to another city, even at two. Therefore, to maintain the chronology of events, the first post will be just about that. So, in early December 2016, we visited the town of Hoi An and the city of Da Nang (day one), as well as the ruins of the My Son temple complex - the heritage of the Champa culture - located about 40 minutes drive from Hoi An (day two).

Excursion cost, important clarification and general impression

We traveled within two day excursion from the Russian Information Center (RIC) in Nha Trang (we have an article about the main ones). The cost of the excursion at the time of writing the article for an adult is $ 115, for a child up to 110 cm tall - $ 65, for a taller child - as for an adult. The total duration of the trip, including the road, is two days and three nights, of which one night in a hotel and two on a bus.

An important clarification is as follows. If we compare the prices of excursions "Hoi An - Da Nang - Michon" from different travel agencies, then the RIC has one of the lowest prices. This is explained by the fact that the tour is conducted by the RIC partner, a Vietnamese travel agency, i.е. we pay for the tour at the RIC office, we buy bus tickets there, and in Hoi An we are met by a representative of the Vietnamese travel agency, who is then responsible for us until the end of the tour. Guides will be Russian-speaking Vietnamese.

Such an organization has its pros and cons. The obvious plus is the cost of the tour (remember, a two-day trip costs $115). For comparison, the travel agency "Uncle Vanya", sharpened for Internet marketing (that is, with minimal costs for office rental, etc.), one day trip to Hoi An with a visit to the Marble Mountains, will cost $ 139 per person, excluding the cost of bus or train tickets. But the guide will be domestic, who together with you will endure all the hardships of the road. 😉

In general, we are satisfied with the tour from the RIC (in fact, from the Vietnamese partner of the RIC). On the first day, the Vietnamese guide was not bad, only with a quiet voice, and on the second day the guide was excellent. The name of the second guide was Rosa, this is a Vietnamese lady in her years, who once studied in the USSR. Now he teaches in Da Nang at the university, and in free time works as a guide. Wonderful woman!

Let's make a reservation right away that two days are absolutely not enough for such a route. In a good way, you need to come for a few days, now on your own, and wander, walk, explore. Well, for now, a brief overview.

Road to Hoi An

We traveled from Nha Trang to Hoi An by a Vietnamese sleeping bus (aka slipping bass, slipbus or sleeping bus). The cost of tickets is NOT included in the cost of the tour, it is about $ 25 per person (this is for both tickets - there and back). For the first time, for an unprepared Russian person, a trip with a Vietnamese slipping bass is already an adventure, especially if it lasts 10-11 hours.

But about the trip itself, about the pros and cons of slipbus, about what you should take with you on the bus, about where to buy tickets for it in Nha Trang and via the Internet -.

It looks like an intercity sleeping bus inside

Impatient and determined, independent and used to doing everything online, travelers can find a ticket to Hoi An through the form below (service provided by 12go.asia)

Powered by 12Go Asia system

Hotel, in case independent travel(and not like ours, with a tour), you can book through the form below (it is provided by the hotellook website, which compares prices from several hotel search engines, allowing you to choose the minimum one).

We will tell you about the hotel where we spent the night as part of the tour at the end of this article.

Da Nang and the Marble Mountains

Arriving in Hoi An and having breakfast, we immediately went to Da Nang, a city located about an hour's drive from Hoi An. Famous for the Marble Mountains, port, industry and bridges.

Bridges of Da Nang

Here is an impressive cable-stayed bridge.


This is the Dragon Bridge. The guide said that on Saturday and Sunday evenings he spews flames. But we were on a Friday afternoon, so we didn't see it. And on youtube, indeed, there is a video of the bridge in its fiery incarnation.


Dragon Bridge in Da Nang, which can spew flames

Caves of the Marble Mountains

Da Nang has the Marble Mountains. The place is amazingly atmospheric, with richest history, to get around all the nooks and crannies in a day is unrealistic, and we, unfortunately, had only a couple of hours.


IN Marble mountains a huge number of caves and caves, some have altars or even small temples.


Small shrine in the Marble Mountains
Small temple in the Marble Mountains

In one of the nooks and crannies there is a source to which people come who want to have children. And during the war, the Viet Cong hid in the caves, there are even holes in the "ceilings" from the explosions of aerial bombs, with which the US military tried to smoke out the partisans.


Air bomb holes in the "ceiling" of the cave, Marble Mountains, Da Nang

Marble wonders of Vietnamese craftsmen

At the foot of the mountains they sell very beautiful products made of marble (imported, marble itself has not been mined in the Marble Mountains for a long time). Pay attention to round plates with a hole in the middle (in the upper left part of the picture, on the rack). These are amulets to attract money.


Marble products in a shop at the foot of the Marble Mountains

And these are BIG amulets. Apparently, to attract BIG money (in the center, an apple tree is also made of marble).


Hoi An and walking tour

After exploring the caves and marble beauty, we returned to Hoi An, where the guide took us walking tour. After the tour, we made two conclusions:

  1. You still need to return to Hoi An to wander through the narrow picturesque streets and enjoy the atmosphere.
  2. Don't go back in December! For the wet season here, although warm, is very wet.

Therefore, for example, cycle rickshaws carefully wrap customers (Chinese) from the rain


In general, Hoi An is recognized by UNESCO as part of the world cultural heritage. Almost every street has at least one object included in some cultural and historical list, many temples and pagodas.


Hoi An is also famous for textile production: silk and silk products are made here. As part of the tour, we visited the factory, where we were shown the process of obtaining silk.

These are silkworm caterpillars in their young state.


Growing up, they pupate with the formation of cocoons, because of which, in fact, all the fuss.


And then the tired aunt spins a silk thread from cocoons soaked in water.


In general, sometimes the phrase “The less you know, the better you sleep” really works.

In the 16th century, Hoi An was major center, where they intersect trade routes from China and Japan. One of the main attractions of the city is the bridge, which at one time (seemingly, in the same 16th century) connected the Japanese and Chinese halves of the city. It was built jointly by Japanese and Chinese merchants for four years (we don’t know why it took so long to build - the distance between the banks is small ... But since the bridge is still preserved, it means it was worth it).


The bridge connecting the Japanese and Chinese halves of Hoi An

Chinese motives are still strong here. Ironically, Vietnamese Hoi An is now often associated with the Chinese lanterns that decorate its streets (shhh, they are, of course, Vietnamese, made of Vietnamese silk). And in souvenir shops with a sign "Goods from Hoi An" there are certainly such lanterns. And here is the irony of fate? Despite the fact that the Vietnamese do not like the Chinese, because for about 1000 years Vietnam was under the "yoke" of the Chinese Empire. And then he fell under the "yoke" of the French... And then there was the American-Vietnamese war... But now tourists from all over the world are welcome here. At least that's the impression we got.