Holidays in Crete: Hersonissos, Balos, Gramvousa, Samaria Gorge. Gramvousa - two uninhabited islands with a rich pirate history

Close to West Bank Crete is small island Gramvousa, whose popularity among tourists was brought by the fortress located on the top of the mountain, and the fact that here you can observe the "confluence of 3 seas": the Ionian Sea from the west, the Cretan Sea from the north and the Libyan Sea from the south.

Those who doubted that the current Gramvusa is the island of Eola, as well as those who are more closely interested in the voyage of Odysseus in the realities of modern geographical names, I can recommend that you read the description of the voyage "For Ulysses to Ithaca", published in the magazine "Around the World" in 1988.

Regarding the history of Gramvousa as a pirate island, it is more real than the Aeolian haven, and is closely connected with the fortress built here by the Venetians in the 16th century. Naturally, the fortress was built during the reign of Venice to protect its trade routes.

The war nevertheless took place, but even after Crete came under the rule of the Turks (almost a century later), the fortress remained in the hands of the Venetians.

Taking a fortress located on such an impregnable rock was very problematic, but, as often happens, betrayal is more short cut to success. The fortress was surrendered, but for a long time periodically passed into the hands of the Greek rebels. But in 1825, a detachment of 300 fighters from the Peloponnese captured the fortress, and despite the fact that Crete remained "Turkish", Gramvousa no longer obeyed them. Dissatisfied with the power of the Turks, they joined the "rebellious Gramvuse", so that the population grew. But you won't be full of cacti alone.

And now about the personal "feat". I am very afraid of heights and love it very much. Happens. Thinking about whether I can get to the fortress, in my decision, “I can” was based on 2 facts:
Firstly, excursion program widely advertised without any restrictions (such as “not for everyone”), and secondly, the habit worked: in Finland hiking trails, even those that do not imply mass events equipped with railings, steps, etc.
Well, you can forget about your own fear.

Still swimming up to the island, looking at the barely visible flag on the mountain, and even more so when we went ashore, I began to think about the success of the planned enterprise.
To my doubts, the guide replied that it was definitely worth doing, so she climbed once and it was very cool. And, in general, this should be approached as an accomplishment of a feat. I remember that once in my school years there was a topic for an essay: “The party said, the Komsomol answered:“ Yes. And I went.

We planned this trip one of the first! I really wanted to see this amazing landscape with my own eyes. You need to go there - it was not in doubt. The question was: "How?"
There are 3 ways to get to Balos Lagoon:
1) The easiest way is to buy an excursion in some travel agency. The host of Beleon-Tour offered us this for 50 euros per person. Street agencies in Bali announce prices from 43 to 60 euros per person. The price of the tour includes: transfer by bus from the hotel to the port of Kissamos, the services of a guide on the bus, a ticket for the boat that will take you first to about. Imeri Gramvousa, then to Balos lagoon and back to Kissamos, return transfer to the hotel.
Pros: no worries, visiting Fr. Imeri Gramvousa.
Cons: price, binding to the ship's schedule, a crowd of people.
2) On a rented car, drive to Kissamos and buy a ticket for the ship on your own. The price of an adult ticket at the box office is 25 euros. If you buy in advance on the Internet http://www.gramvousa.com/Cruises.aspx?id=327&lang=ru, then 22 euros.
If your hotel is somewhere near Kissamos, it is probably possible to get to the port by regular bus. For us, this option was no longer possible, because. the ship sailed at 10:20 am, and Bali is very far from Kissamos.
Pros: You may be able to save a little; visit about. Imeri Gramvousa.
Cons: binding to the ship's schedule, a crowd of people, the need to steer.
3) Drive a rented car. From Kissamos there is an 8 km dirt road almost to the lagoon. According to reviews, this journey takes an average of 40 minutes. The road is narrow, along a serpentine, uphill, there is a risk that the small car will not pull, and there is also a high probability of damaging the bottom with stones sticking out of the ground. Primer insurance is not valid, it is written in all contracts. You will need to leave the car on the mountain and then go down to the beach along the stone steps for about 1.5 km. Then, accordingly, you have to rise.
Pros: price; you are not tied to any schedule, you can leave at any time; if you arrive early, before the ship arrives, you will be almost alone in the lagoon.
Cons: risk of damaging the car; the need to climb 1.5 km up in the heat; impossible to get to. Imeri Gramvousa.

After watching a video on the Internet in which the car is trying to climb this primer, slipping and raising clouds of dust, we decided that we would not risk it. We didn’t want any problems with the rental car, especially since the bottom was not insured with us. Without further ado, we went to the agency that offered the lowest price and bought a tour there for 43 euros per person.
At 7 am we were picked up from the hotel. Since the composition of the tourists was international, on the road we were accompanied by 2 guides at once: a Russian-speaking young man and a German-speaking aunt. In turn, they broadcast something, each about his own: in Russian - about the history of the Gramvousa fortress and migratory birds in the Balos lagoon, in German (as far as we could understand) - about restaurants, bars and toilets on the ship)))
At about 9:30 we arrived at the port, the guide gave us tickets for the boat (by the way, when sold through travel agencies, the ticket price is already only 14 euros) and a receipt for paying an environmental fee worth 1 euro (if you go by car, the fee will also have to be paid ).
The ship has all the benefits of civilization: toilets, a bar, a restaurant. Souvlaki (barbecue) was cooked right in front of us. You can stay both indoors and outdoors. Even on a hot day on the open deck it was very strong wind, we did not regret that we took sweatshirts with us. In all languages ​​of the world they announced what time we arrive, what time we depart and other important information. Friends said that in the summer this ship was not overcrowded. October is full of vacancies.

The journey to the first stop, Imeri Gramvousa Island, takes about an hour. The ship goes along the rocky shore, on which one can observe a black stripe above sea level. Until 365 AD, the island was submerged at this mark. In 365, a terrible earthquake occurred off the coast of Crete. It caused significant destruction in central and southern Greece, in Sicily and North Africa. On the island of Crete, almost all cities were destroyed. The earthquake caused a tsunami that swept along the coasts of the Mediterranean, killing many thousands of people, and the ships were thrown 3 km inland. As a result of this earthquake, the island tilted: the eastern tip sank deeper into the sea, and the western tip rose 9 meters.

6) From the water you can see the primer on the peninsula, on which cars are slowly crawling.

One of the versions of the origin of the name "Gramvusa" is associated with a hole in the rock: in the time of the Venetians, the most West Side The island of Crete was called Capo Buso (literally translated - "leaky edge"). Perhaps over time this name has changed. local population into the Greek version - "Akra Buza", and then - into "Gramvousa".

Near the northwestern tip of Crete there are 2 uninhabited islands: the northern one is called Agria Gramvousa (stormy Gramvousa), and the southern one is Imeri Gramvousa (calm Gramvousa).

12) Our ship moored at the calm Gramvousa, where the Venetian fortress has been preserved, and we went ashore.
Some of the passengers went to the beach, the rest - pulled up the large stone steps up to the fortress. At the sight of the steps, the feeling of deja vu visited us again)) We cannot do without comfortable, stable shoes here. Climbing in the crowd is not easy: you are not so much afraid of stumbling as you are afraid that some big German aunt will roll on you)).

The fortress on Imeri Gramvousa was built by the Venetians in the middle of the 16th century to protect against the Ottoman Empire. The location of this fortress made it possible to control the strait separating western Crete from the Peloponnesian peninsula. But after a little over 100 years, it was captured by the Turks. By that time, the entire island was already in the hands of the conquerors. It took the Cretans 133 years to return the fortress of Gramvousa and turn it into the center of the liberation struggle against the Turkish invaders. But the most difficult conditions faced locals in those years, forced them to engage in piracy. Almost all ships passing in these waters were attacked: Turkish, Egyptian and European. So Gramvousa gained fame as a pirate fortress. During this period, the population of Imeri Gramvousa Island grew. A school and a church were even built here.

20) The atmosphere of piracy is supported by a dilapidated ship, wrecked off the coast of Imeri Gramvousa. It sank here in the 80s of the 20th century. According to one of the legends, he allegedly transported drugs and was flooded by the Greek Coast Guard.

In 1828, an Anglo-French squadron with government troops was sent to Gramvuse to fight piracy. Pirates were expelled from the island, and their ships were sunk or captured. And the fortress was again handed over to the Turks, because. Crete belonged to them at that time.

26) The fortress offers stunning views of neighboring islands and the Balos lagoon.

Gramvousa has the status of a reserve and is protected by the state. This is the habitat of rare representatives of flora and fauna. Many species of migratory birds stop here.

You are given 2 hours to explore the island with the fortress, after which the ship sets off and goes to Balos Bay. This journey takes only 15 minutes. We were told that in bad weather they drop anchor 200 meters from the lagoon and deliver tourists to the beach in small boats. We were more fortunate: the boat moored to land near the island of Tigani (translated as "Frying Pan") and we went ashore. 3 hours are allotted for rest in the bay, then the ship returns to Kissamos.

On the beach there are changing cabins, umbrellas, sunbeds (of course, for a fee) and some kind of catering establishment, which we didn’t go to, because. ate and drank on the ship.
The crowd that poured out of the ship immediately rushed into the turquoise waters. Well, we, passing on sand spit from Tigani to Crete, they began to climb the stone steps up the mountain to capture the view of the lagoon from above.

The sea in this place has many shades from azure blue and emerald green to dark blue.
The beauty is breathtaking!
It is believed that at this point the waters of three seas merge: the Cretan, Ionian and Libyan.

It was very hot, we climbed quite a bit and then we were tired. It was the same path along which people who arrived in cars descend to the beach and climb back to the parking lot. We sympathized with them and went back down to swim.
First we tried to enter the water to the left of the spit. And they were surprised how cold it is! Despite the shallow water and the heat! We were already almost upset that we would not be able to swim. We crossed to the other side of the spit, and there was very warm water.

50) There was still time before departure, but we were already swimming and decided to return to the boat. We took a bottle of retsina and grapes.

Retsina is a Greek resinous white wine. The original taste comes from the fact that in ancient times, vessels with wine, in particular amphoras, were sealed with pine resin to prevent contact with air. With the advent of barrels, the need to use resin disappeared, but the aroma and taste of retsina were so popular that they have survived to this day. Currently, resin is specially added at the fermentation stage to give the wine a characteristic aroma.
The word "ρετσίνα" is translated as "resin". By the way, the Russian word "rubber" comes from the same Greek word
Once in Rhodes we already tried to drink retsina, but then it seemed to us a rare muck. Apparently, that was the wrong retsina. Here, on the open deck of the ship, contemplating the heavenly landscape, we appreciated this drink at its true worth.

By 18:00 we arrived at the port of Kissamos, and after 2.5 hours we were at our hotel in Bali and still had time for dinner. After such an eventful day, we dozed all the way to the hotel on the bus and were glad that we did take a tour, and did not go by car.
Balos and Gramvousa is certainly one of the most beautiful places Crete. I recommend visiting.

My other posts about Crete.

The last trip to Crete turned out to be really unforgettable. Just imagine: we, exhausted by the heat, like ancient Greek clay pots, burned by the scorching sun, nevertheless decided to go across the entire island, from east to west, for adventures (as we love)!

Looking ahead, I will say that it is really worth it. It just requires considerable preparation and knowledge of certain things, which will be discussed now.

Start over. My husband and I chose a tour that included: guide services, transfer from Hersonissos with a couple of stops, a ferry to Gramvousa, then to Balos and back. For everything about everything they paid about 100 euros per person. (I can’t remember in more detail, since we took several tours at once).

The bus picked us up from the hotel, where the first adventure awaited. One of their tourists strayed from her group and asked to join us. The driver did not speak Russian, and my husband was asked to translate. Be carefull! Don't lose your bus. Of course, the girl got out of the situation and even ended up staying with our group (because of the guide), but nevertheless.

The guide was really amazing. His name was Alexander. He told something in our way: understandable, interesting, funny. IN general time V long road wasted to good use.

The first stop was the town of Skaleta, where you can replenish water supplies in a shop near a gas station, get supplies (I took myself a delicious Greek kazinak)), visit wc. For us, the sunrise that we met there was remarkable. It’s a pity the photo does not convey all the sensations and colors we experienced then ...

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The second time we stopped at a small cafe where we could have a quick bite to eat.

Cheerfully and provocatively, we reached the port of Kissamos, from where we were to set off by sea.

The ferry was waiting for us huge, in 2 tiers. By the way, you can buy everything you need there - a diving kit, creams, snacks and, importantly, a portable sun umbrella. Consider taking it. It cost, like, about 10 euros + a deposit that is returned. However, it is not small and will take your hands. In general, we did not take it.

When choosing a tour, by the way, be puzzled by the question of food, as some tour groups on the ferry back and forth received complex meals.

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We set off from the port, and soon our eyes met the endless splendor seascapes and distant islands.

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Ferry

When approaching and mooring, we remembered that we only had an hour and a half (all this is announced on the bus, the guide is unlikely to catch you all on the ferry). And then it's very important. Quite large groups of tourists visit these places, and if you want to take a photo without flashing heads and other body parts, we advise you to take a queue in the first rows to get off the ship. If you follow the advice, here are the photos you can get:

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Gramvousa itself is a small island with the ruins of a fortress from the Venetian period, which, like a crown, rises to the top. According to myths, it was here that Odysseus lived for about a month, having met the wind god Eol. As is known from the myth, it was here that Aeolus handed Odysseus a leather bag filled with winds, capable of directing the ship of the eternal wanderer to his native Ithaca. Hence the name of the island (Gramvousa from the Greek. "Sack of leather"). Of course, this is not single version origin of the name.

So, you have a difficult choice ahead of you: climb to the top of the island along a steep mountain path, stay there for a while, take a photo, or stay on the beach (seen in the photo above). We chose the first option.

Below, the island resembles a desert with an oasis, on the one hand it is an azure sea, but on the other hand there are hot stones and lifeless cacti.

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Comfortable shoes are very useful here, the path is really steep, and often there are high steps that the prudent inhabitants of the island built to weaken the spirit of the invaders. Weakened, but not subdued, we continued climbing (it was very difficult in such hellishly hot weather), photographing the panorama below along the way.

Above us was waiting for a plain overgrown with thorns, ruins ancient church and amazing views of the surroundings. Careful, by the way, with thorns. I've decided to take a walk and "caught" one foot. It hurt enough, there was no splinter, but a decent hematoma formed from one injection.

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Along the perimeter, the plain is surrounded by a wall, on which here and there tourists climb for a selfie, the heel with Greek flag. Did I already say that real pirates lived here? A kind of "monument" to them lies aground near the beach - a sunken and rusted ship.

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Tired and dehydrated, then we greedily looked at those who chose picturesque beach at the bottom. Nevertheless, I'm glad that we examined all the beauty from above (it was worth it) and took good selfies!)

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At the top, there is a shade with a mountain of garbage from empty bottles, where you can take a breath both after the ascent and before the descent. Which is what we did.

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As we descended, we found that two queues were lining up on the ferry: some rushing inside, others waiting for their turn to the shower, courteously set at the entrance to the ship. Relevant not only for swimmers, you know)

Then we had a bite to eat with our supplies on the ferry and, after waiting for the others, we set off. The attention of many passengers, by the way, was riveted to the point on the island running towards the departing ferry and waving its arms. We did not understand who it was: a tourist who had forgotten about the time or someone local. Thinking about him future fate We moored at Balos bay.

Here we did not leave deja vu on the film "Pirates Caribbean Sea". Remember that scene where Jack runs aground from the natives? It is such a shallow warm water meets you upon arrival, making you take off your shoes and enjoy a walk after the hot stones.

Everyone rushed forward to take their place on the beach. This is where, by the way, umbrellas can come in handy (of course, if you don’t want to uncontrollably climb the local mountain).

Yes, indeed, in this place there are already 3 seas at once: Ionian, Mediterranean and Cretan. Yes, here you can really see 50 shades of blue (water, here it is at several temperatures at once), yes, there is a beautiful sea here and just paradise beach. Everything they say is true) By the way, many people collect sand here for souvenirs. Our guide said this on this topic: firstly, it is prohibited by law, and secondly, torn from these places, the sand will lose its properties and over time, as he assured, it will become the same color as our usual sand.

Gramvousa Island (Crete, Greece) - detailed description, location, reviews, photos and videos.

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Off the northwestern coast of Crete, where, as they say, the most pure water in the Mediterranean, there is a mini-archipelago of two uninhabited islands: Agria-Gramvusa and Imeri-Gramvusa. Several tourist boats land on the shore of the second one every day. Their passengers from all over the world will learn about the fascinating history of this small, but with an amazing fate, a piece of land between the Aegean and Tyrrhenian seas. Fortunately, the miniature Gramvousa, once the pride of the Venetians, and then the haven of real pirates, today is happy to share its secrets.

What to see

For the first time, people came to the shore of an island located 20 km from Kissamos a very, very long time ago. But the full development of Gramvousa began only in 1579, when the Venetians, tired of endless clashes with the Turks, built a fortress here. The castle is well preserved and remains the main attraction of the island. Throughout the history of its existence, the fortress changed owners many times, but it gained real fame in the 19th century, when pirates settled outside its walls. The Gramvousa Fortress stands on top of a hill, a 20-minute walk from the pier (comfortable shoes are required).

The island also has a relatively new attraction - the rusty bulk of the cargo ship Dimitrios P. The ship crashed against the stone shores during a storm in 1967.

On the beach next to the Church of St. George is a luxurious sand beach where you can relax after a tiring climb to the local hills. But not for long, because the excursion ship goes further - to the Balos lagoon, whose purest water, like a palette, consists of many shades. All because of the temperature difference and the abundance of currents.

Practical information

Ships to Gramvusa depart twice a day from late April/early May to October (depending on weather conditions). Pleasure boats Gramvousa and Gramvousa Express leave the port of Kissamos at 10:20 and 10:40 and return at 17:45 and 18:00, respectively. In July-August, the third ship goes to sea - "Spirit of Aphos" (12:30-19:30).

Tickets - 27 EUR, children from 3 to 12 years old - 13 EUR, up to 3 years free of charge. Catering is organized on board (for an additional fee), umbrella rental (4 EUR), and there is a children's animator on the Gramvous. Prices on the page are for November 2018.

To get to the port of Kissamos from Heraklion, you must first drive to Chania (15.10 EUR, 2 hours 45 minutes, bus every hour), and then from Chania to Kissamos (1 hour, 5.10 EUR, bus every hour).

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• Where to stay: On the most developed in terms of tourism, as well as the most central and numerous archipelago Aegean Sea- the blessed Cyclades, the variety of hotels of which will satisfy every taste. On the islands of the Saronic Gulf, tourists will find a remarkable entertainment industry, while on the Ionian Islands and the Dodecanese archipelago, nature and beach-holiday fun are in the right balance. The Eastern Sporades are very beautiful and secluded, and the Northern Sporades and the North Aegean archipelago are even too secluded - people come here mainly on excursions. Everything that is in Greece can be found in the popular Crete.
• What to see: The Greek islands are a concentration of natural and historical attractions. Among the cozy bays indented coastline picturesque fishing villages lurk, centuries-old olive groves hide the ruins of ancient civilizations, snow-white walls of houses shine in the sun, and tiled roofs turn bright crimson in the evenings. And also with Greek islands you can easily get to the mainland - for example, to see firsthand the greatness

Off the northwest coast of Crete, where the Mediterranean has the cleanest water, there are two uninhabited islets.

Their common name is Gramvusa.

But they also have another, more romantic nickname - pirate island.

At the end of the 16th century, at an altitude of 250 meters above the sea, one of the most impregnable fortresses in Crete was built here, and even the most famous Mediterranean pirate, Barbarossa, used to visit here.

How to get there

A visit to the pirate island is included in the tour plan to the Bay of Ballos (about the Balos lagoon), they are located nearby.

Tour price is usually 50–60 euros, and it includes travel to Kissamos, from where a pleasure boat leaves for Ballos Bay and the island of Gramvousa.

The price also includes a light lunch on the ship, a stop in the bay and landing on the island of Gramvousa, on the part where the ancient fortress is located. The entrance to the fortress is free.

From to Kissamos every 45–60 minutes Shuttle Buses, to go about an hour, the fare is 6 euros.

Those wishing to visit the island on their own must get to the port of Kissamos, where buses run from different settlements, and then take a ticket (20 euros) for one of the boats.

Excursion ships depart from 10 o'clock, to the island of Gramvousa by sea - about an hour's journey. From the place where the ships moor on the island, there is a hiking trail almost 850 m long to the fortress.

History of the islands

The Venetians built a fortress in the 70s-80s of the 16th century, the building can be called an excellent example of the art of military architecture.

The location of the fortress made it possible to defend well against attacks, as well as control the strait between western Crete (read all about the island) and the Peloponnese peninsula, guaranteeing safety in the local waters.

More than 100 years later, in 1691, the Turks nevertheless managed to conquer the fortress, not without the help of traitors who were seduced by big money. The Turks began to complete the construction of the fortress and remake it in their own way, equipping it with 70 guns.

It took the Cretans more than 130 years to recapture it, turning it into main object focused on fighting the invaders.

The fortress was built in the shape of a triangle, each side was almost a kilometer long, and on all sides the fortress was protected by high walls - two from the sea and one from the land.

Territory overview

Today Gramvusa is popular tourist attraction, which attracts hundreds of people a day.

Arriving on the island, you can stay on the beach and swim. The beaches here are wild, the bottom is rocky, but the water is clear, shimmering in various shades - from light blue to rich emerald.

The atmosphere of the pirate past is emphasized by a half-submerged ship not far from the coast.. There are several versions of its crash, but the most popular one says that the ship belonged to drug traffickers and was sunk by order of the Greek coastal security service.

Fortress of Gramvousa

But, of course, it is simply necessary to overcome the path to the fortress.

Climbing is not easy, especially if you walk in the heat, which sometimes reaches +40 degrees.

Look carefully under your feet - the steps are destroyed in some places, but the view from above is worth the effort. From here you can see from above how three seas merge.

Passing through the old gate, next to which is located a marble Griffin of the Greco-Roman period, you will come to large area with the remains of Venetian and Turkish buildings.

Looking down is a little scary - the fortress is located on a cliff 137 meters high, but truly unforgettable experience.